I think it is great to include the mistakes. As you said, we all make them. Keeping the mistakes in the video improves the "humanity" of the video. Also, it keeps us alert for easy mistakes that we could make.
When I make a saw guide track, I mark it with both the saw and the type of blade I used since some blades have a slightly wider kerf than others. I normally use my 5 1/2-inch circular saw with a plywood blade as my "track saw".
Nils, these are great. I have used the tape method many times, and I will have to try the others. In fact, I'm making a lot of cuts today; these will come in handy.
@LRN2DIY Thanks for this video. You've really explained a lot of questions I had. Just purchased a hand held circular saw (Tough Master TM-MCS115). I'm no expert at carpentry and would say my knowledge and experience is as beginner/basic you'll get. When I've used a hand saw to cut wood, the teeth have always faced downward or facing into the cut so I was really puzzled why the teeth of this circular saw faced upwards. In this video at 2m and 30 seconds for about 10 seconds, the animation of a circular saw rotation direction showing how the blade cuts is the best visual explanation I've seen. I've got plenty of off-cuts of MDF wood to experiment with (as this is what I'll be cutting) ... and it seems as if I should cut the reverse side to give the side which will be visible the cleanest of cut.
I know nothing of using a circular saw. I'm starting my first home project (installing flooring) in the next few weeks. I was concerned about using the circular saw. I know some things only come with practice, but who knows how much waste would be generated if I didn't stumble upon your videos first. Thanks for sharing what you know - it is truly appreciated! Also, I love that you're using safety gear!
just remember to never place your fingers in the path of the blade (above or below the workpiece) & never bind the blade (allow the cut piece to fall freely). also, always start the saw up behind the workpiece, then move slowly into it. lots of time people carelessly start the blade up right next to the wood & it destroys the piece & it can cause kickback. Good luck!
Some nice methods there! Ive found if I simply climb cut with the blade only 1/8” out first and then drop the blade to push saw forward and finish cut it eliminates almost all blemishes. No tape needed and will cut even that crappy finished mdf shelving that home depot sells now.
Yes, good video, thanks, I find when kitchen fitting and cutting painted board which has to be perfect, a fine tooth saw light cut first (about 1-2mm) then full depth cut makes the cleanest cut. I believe Phesto track saws have the function automatically.
I have serious misgivings about the zero clearance shoe. You're going to forget the bladed is exposed, for say, just one time. Either the work piece gets damaged, you touch the spinning blade, or you incautiously set it down and the saw "runs" away. It's as dangerous as removing the blade guard. You cannot get a full zero clearance attachment on a hand held saw. I've used the two step method for years (cut the veneer then make the full cut) and have never had plywood tear-out issues, even for crappy plywood and even with moderately worn carbide blades.
I agree 100%. You can get the same benefits and safety. Simply cut a hole in the rear of the new saw plate for the blade guard. The blade still has the zero clearance at the front for a clean cut.. You do not need zero clearances at the back of the blade. The rear half of the blade is not cutting anything.
For the OSZCTSG I usually spray wd on the sliding surface + wipe some onto the circ saw bottom surface. Or wax. I also use a rubber band to hold the shield back. As much as possible to start and continue a clean cut.
Great info. Would it make sense, using the blue painters tape "method" in combination with the zero-clearance extended shoe, to make the initial plunge cut and minimize the tear out on your material used for the bottom shoe extension?
Only just found your videos and have found them very helpful. Yep, I did hit the that subscribe button. I am just starting to get into woood working and have couple of question regarding the 140 tooth blade. Since the gullets are so small, when you cut a piece of plywood should you do it in stages? For example, if you were cutting a 3/4" birch, would you take three 1/4" (+-) cut or is that to much for such small teeth? The next question is do you push the skill saw at a normal rate or slow down allowing the blade to clear any build up or would that cause burning as the blade is dweling to long in one spot or does it even matter?
As in the first example, I make a shallow notch, but I reverse saw so that the teeth of the saw go straight into the disc and do not lift. Then I lower and saw normally forward. I also have a blade where every other tooth takes the outer edge of the slot and every other one in the middle. My cuts are completely without lifting stitches, but like they were cut with a razor-sharp knife.
Hi, thanx for good explanation of the amount of teeth on the blade. Could you pls share your experience regarding the shape of the teeth? I guess typically there is one left tooth then one right tooth alternating. But there are different shapes, isn't?
This saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black
Actually no, polystyrene dust is not particularly toxic. See www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7193629/. Key quote: "It is generally accepted that microplastic particles are not harmful or at best minimal to human health."
Nice video. Will make myself a zero clearance jig as well for clean cuts. There were only 18 teeth on my factory blade and my cuts weren't clean. To keep you safe with the zero clearance jig, why dont you create a little stand to put the saw on once the cut is done and the blade is still spinning.
Generally good tips, but a few safety concerns. 1. The cuts made early in the video show poor practice. The wide part of the shoe should be on the “keeper” board so that the center of gravity of the saw is well supported. The narrow part of the shoe should be over the waste piece. This provides more stability and keeps a better 90 cut angle lessening the chance of binding, burning and kickback. 2. Never have your free hand away from the saw and unsupported as shown at the 7:00 mark. It is better to rest your free hand on the saw motor or blade housing to provide more control in case of binding or kickback. This also lessens the chance of getting a finger in the saw while holding the guard open when the hand is well supported. 3. The “zero clearance shoe” is just a bad idea. Don’t do that. Period.
@@briandimascio3624 ok how about "BECAUSE?" Seriously though, my guess would be he doesn't like it being taped on like that. It could move while in use, bind up with the blade and go flying.
@@briandimascio3624I’m guessing the same thing Fredrocks says, plus, it doesn’t allow the hood to completely cover the blade, which is there to prevent accidents
On a circular saw there is a small side and a large side, the large side is more stable on top of the wood and cuts straighter, more stable and just better over all.
Recent tip for making the OSZCTSG. First, check that your blade is parallel to guide. Mine was out of alignment most probably because of a fall. Next, if you can leave a little more than an 1/8, if you skim here you have a chance that the blade will deflect. In the same note, do a slim cut first and also don't cut way deeper than you need to avoid deflecting.
Start with cutting with the weight of saw supported. You cut with the wide part of the baseplate unsupported which is why the saw tilted that caused the burning.
I got a dull 7 1/4 blade and I use economy super glue and apply it down the cut line and spray that with isopropyl alcohol to act as an accelerant. Once it gets hard seconds later I cut. It ain't perfect but that's what sandpaper is for.
Great tips, I like the box cutter one because I have all sorts of blades that can work as well. Tiny nitpick: that styrofoam board serving as a sacrificial base for the saw is problematic- when damaged, they release gases that are bad for the environment, if that's something you care about. Food for thought.
Like your video and ideas, however when it comes to the Zero clearance and put it on the desk you remove the battery and lift the circular saw. I remove the cable or battery when done cutting.
@@jimcargill-bs2sx he's talking about the model of blade; teeth number, type, etc. What I am referring to is the wear on the teeth of that blade causing a necessity for replacing that specific blade with another blade of the same model. 😊
@@kensleylewis less worry is not no worry. Eventually you need to change the blade. Do it instead of using a full blade. Even Diablo blades can and should be replaced.
@@MikeNovellieu acho que o vídeo é válido em pelo menos dois pontos. O primeiro é praticar a personalização de gabaritos. O segundo é economizar dinheiro por conta do aumento da vida útil de uma serra não afiável ou aumentar o tempo de uso entre afiações e isso é bom para o meio ambiente. Também é válido no caso de dificuldades para afiar ou comprar nova serra. Suponho que seja fabricado na China e pode ter atrasos na importação.
Excellent thank you Nils. Why don’t you leave the last version on the saw all the time? When would you want less than the best cut one can achieve? We’re you searching for the word ‘capture’ by the way? Bob England
Hey Bob, good to hear from you. The only reason you might take it off is for angled cuts. The zero clearance shoe is really only set up for 90 degree cuts but you could make separate ones for 45s and such too. And yes! That’s the word I was looking for. Cheers!
I have a circular saw that bucks like crazy. Im terrified to use it. Yet I have tried all the suggested things, like using a new sharp blade, making sure the work piece is flat, I use a jig to go straight like you did, and still does it. Smokes, burns and binds up. What am I doing wrong? Thanks and as usual I learn a lot from your videos and the hard work that you put in to them does not go unnoticed.
Boy, that' s a tough one. If you've got a new blade (decent tooth count, like 40+?) and you're definitely cutting in a straight line, then the only other thing I can think of is that maybe the blade isn't seated properly on the arbor. I wonder if you can borrow someone else's circular saw and see if you notice a difference. Could be a manufacturing defect that makes it wobbly or lopsided, I suppose. Thanks for watching and for your kind words and I hope you find a solution!
@@LRN2DIY It's an old saw now but it was new when I bought it and it has had this problem since the first time I used it with both the blade that came with it and different new blades. It's a Milwaukee corded saw from around 2008 back when those tools were more robust in my opinion. I have a much newer M18 cordless circ saw that is fine but I haven't tried to cut sheet stock with it yet, only dimensional lumber. Most of the time I cut sheet stock on a panel saw or table saw. Circular saw is really only for when I'm in the field which isn't all that often.
Make sure the depth of the blade is not too deep. Set the depth to approx. thickness of material + 1/8”. If the blade is too deep, then more surface area of it is exposed to the material and is more likely to bind and kick
@@TheKingOfInappropriateCommentsprovavelmente tua máquina é apropriada para carpintaria sem grande precisão, trabalho bruto. Para marcenaria tem poucos modelos com precisão mais adequada. Mas o uso correto também ajuda.
I think the guard on a skilsaw is more dangerous than without, especially when cutting small pieces.....keep the saw facing down while blade is spinning and there is no reason to be nervous......as a builder since 80s Ive learned to just turn saw sideways and lay the saw down after a cut....the guard is a PITA
Doesn't the tip about the bottom face is the good face get disproved by the very clean cuts you had when you scored the top face in the previous 2 tips?
All these years I listened to bad tips and horrible advice. Yeah it’s nice to have pro skills but wood is expensive and mistakes waste time. Thank you!! Saved and Subscribed!
You are using the wrong side of the saw, use the wide side for perfect cut. Wide side will take big surface to sit on the sheet and would be easy to balance the saw
#3 was the method shown to me as a child by my carpenter granddad born ~1933. What is shown here seems a long way around the idea that was shown to me though. Draw your line to be cut, put down another piece of plywood right along that line sitting atop the wood to be cut, and then cut the board, allowing a blade depth just deep enough to account for the added offset. Fancier methods have their time and place but keeping around a bunch of templates seems taxing even with the space of a shop, and out in the field it seems outright unpractical. 'Painters tape' is more ubiquitous these days than it used to be, I suspect because of the development in adhesives used in similar products like post it notes. The two ideas seems related though, #3 and the tape.
Why not let the shoe rest on a U-shaped block with it 'legs' about 2 inches? That way the circular saw itself lies flat, protect the teeth of the saw and when it is resting you can never touch the blade. Would also work for multiple blades and/or saws
Fun fact is I keep my edc so sharp I can cut luan as if it was cardboard my coworkers didn’t believe me but I proved everyone wrong. Now everyone wants me to sharpen there knives and chisels and whatnot 😂
Really like this bloke. No ashamed to show his mistakes. Very clear instructions. Very helpful.
New to woodwork.. changed the blade from 24 to 60 teeth... the cleanest cut ever... thanks
Thank you…..I bought I was doing it wrong at times…
very informative….greetings from down under Australia…stay safe…
I recently invested in a cordless Left Handed circular saw. Watching this video makes me suggest the same solution for yourself, you love it.
I think it is great to include the mistakes. As you said, we all make them. Keeping the mistakes in the video improves the "humanity" of the video. Also, it keeps us alert for easy mistakes that we could make.
When I make a saw guide track, I mark it with both the saw and the type of blade I used since some blades have a slightly wider kerf than others. I normally use my 5 1/2-inch circular saw with a plywood blade as my "track saw".
I found your video very useful. Thanks. Well done.
As the inventor of this machine, i give my blessing to the advice on this video.
Thank you! I finally cut a straight line with the t-square. Onward !
Nils, these are great. I have used the tape method many times, and I will have to try the others. In fact, I'm making a lot of cuts today; these will come in handy.
Thanks, Mitch! Yeah, the tape method is very quick and handy and hopefully some of the others are helpful for you!
@LRN2DIY Thanks for this video. You've really explained a lot of questions I had. Just purchased a hand held circular saw (Tough Master TM-MCS115). I'm no expert at carpentry and would say my knowledge and experience is as beginner/basic you'll get. When I've used a hand saw to cut wood, the teeth have always faced downward or facing into the cut so I was really puzzled why the teeth of this circular saw faced upwards. In this video at 2m and 30 seconds for about 10 seconds, the animation of a circular saw rotation direction showing how the blade cuts is the best visual explanation I've seen. I've got plenty of off-cuts of MDF wood to experiment with (as this is what I'll be cutting) ... and it seems as if I should cut the reverse side to give the side which will be visible the cleanest of cut.
The square is a good design thanks a mill for posting
Great hints and reminders on the use of a circular saw.
Very helpful.
I know nothing of using a circular saw. I'm starting my first home project (installing flooring) in the next few weeks.
I was concerned about using the circular saw. I know some things only come with practice, but who knows how much waste would be generated if I didn't stumble upon your videos first. Thanks for sharing what you know - it is truly appreciated! Also, I love that you're using safety gear!
just remember to never place your fingers in the path of the blade (above or below the workpiece) & never bind the blade (allow the cut piece to fall freely). also, always start the saw up behind the workpiece, then move slowly into it. lots of time people carelessly start the blade up right next to the wood & it destroys the piece & it can cause kickback. Good luck!
Captivate/captivize -- the word you were seeking was "capture" :)
Great tips! I use #2 (zero cleaance flat plate easy way) and painter's tape :)
Some nice methods there! Ive found if I simply climb cut with the blade only 1/8” out first and then drop the blade to push saw forward and finish cut it eliminates almost all blemishes. No tape needed and will cut even that crappy finished mdf shelving that home depot sells now.
Great video! Very informative. When making a zero clearance shoe, a piece of plexiglass may be good so you can see your cut line.
Yes, good video, thanks, I find when kitchen fitting and cutting painted board which has to be perfect, a fine tooth saw light cut first (about 1-2mm) then full depth cut makes the cleanest cut. I believe Phesto track saws have the function automatically.
Me pareció muy sencilla y práctica la escuadra de madera
Voy a tomar tu idea
Muchas gracias
Saludos desde Xalapa, Veracruz, México.
Si! A mí gustó también, pero solo para cortes cortos, en un corte de 4 pies por ejemplo, no seria muy funcional, se volvería inestable
Loved this video, I’m just getting into woodworking and this video has some great tips I definitely needed to know, thank you
I have serious misgivings about the zero clearance shoe. You're going to forget the bladed is exposed, for say, just one time. Either the work piece gets damaged, you touch the spinning blade, or you incautiously set it down and the saw "runs" away. It's as dangerous as removing the blade guard. You cannot get a full zero clearance attachment on a hand held saw.
I've used the two step method for years (cut the veneer then make the full cut) and have never had plywood tear-out issues, even for crappy plywood and even with moderately worn carbide blades.
The two step option seems like the best option for clean cuts, especially since, as you mentioned, it doesn't compromise safety at all.
I agree 100%. You can get the same benefits and safety. Simply cut a hole in the rear of the new saw plate for the blade guard. The blade still has the zero clearance at the front for a clean cut.. You do not need zero clearances at the back of the blade. The rear half of the blade is not cutting anything.
For the OSZCTSG I usually spray wd on the sliding surface + wipe some onto the circ saw bottom surface. Or wax. I also use a rubber band to hold the shield back. As much as possible to start and continue a clean cut.
Thank you for making this video. Very well done, helpful and informative. Cheers! 😀
Great info. Would it make sense, using the blue painters tape "method" in combination with the zero-clearance extended shoe, to make the initial plunge cut and minimize the tear out on your material used for the bottom shoe extension?
Only just found your videos and have found them very helpful. Yep, I did hit the that subscribe button. I am just starting to get into woood working and have couple of question regarding the 140 tooth blade. Since the gullets are so small, when you cut a piece of plywood should you do it in stages? For example, if you were cutting a 3/4" birch, would you take three 1/4" (+-) cut or is that to much for such small teeth? The next question is do you push the skill saw at a normal rate or slow down allowing the blade to clear any build up or would that cause burning as the blade is dweling to long in one spot or does it even matter?
Loved your graphic of the cutting blade. Did you do it yourself?
As in the first example, I make a shallow notch, but I reverse saw so that the teeth of the saw go straight into the disc and do not lift. Then I lower and saw normally forward. I also have a blade where every other tooth takes the outer edge of the slot and every other one in the middle. My cuts are completely without lifting stitches, but like they were cut with a razor-sharp knife.
Thank you so much for this video (and all of the others). You are very helpful.
Great video! Super informative
Very good and detail video . Thanks for sharing your knowledge .👍👍
Hi, thanx for good explanation of the amount of teeth on the blade. Could you pls share your experience regarding the shape of the teeth? I guess typically there is one left tooth then one right tooth alternating. But there are different shapes, isn't?
Thanks for the tips. I experienced blow out for the first time today.
This saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black
Nice way of sneaking in your spammy link on the destination page with editing the comment!
Very thorough coverage.
Cut path safety, please keep your fingers out of the blade path (@ 6:57)
Great tips! I'll definitely be trying these!
Diablo blades are the best!
Appreciate your work.
Safety issue: the polystyrene under the job is being powdered by the saw. Highly, Highly toxic
Actually no, polystyrene dust is not particularly toxic. See www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7193629/. Key quote: "It is generally accepted that microplastic particles are not harmful or at best minimal to human health."
Great tips. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video. Will make myself a zero clearance jig as well for clean cuts. There were only 18 teeth on my factory blade and my cuts weren't clean. To keep you safe with the zero clearance jig, why dont you create a little stand to put the saw on once the cut is done and the blade is still spinning.
Generally good tips, but a few safety concerns.
1. The cuts made early in the video show poor practice. The wide part of the shoe should be on the “keeper” board so that the center of gravity of the saw is well supported. The narrow part of the shoe should be over the waste piece. This provides more stability and keeps a better 90 cut angle lessening the chance of binding, burning and kickback.
2. Never have your free hand away from the saw and unsupported as shown at the 7:00 mark. It is better to rest your free hand on the saw motor or blade housing to provide more control in case of binding or kickback. This also lessens the chance of getting a finger in the saw while holding the guard open when the hand is well supported.
3. The “zero clearance shoe” is just a bad idea. Don’t do that. Period.
I appreciate the tips!
Why is the zero clearance shoe such a bad idea?
@@Lennart1995I’m wondering the same as I am about to make one lol. ‘Just don’t do that’ didn’t convince me.
@@briandimascio3624 ok how about "BECAUSE?" Seriously though, my guess would be he doesn't like it being taped on like that. It could move while in use, bind up with the blade and go flying.
@@briandimascio3624I’m guessing the same thing Fredrocks says, plus, it doesn’t allow the hood to completely cover the blade, which is there to prevent accidents
Gracias por los consejos👏
Great video. Thank you very much sir.
On a circular saw there is a small side and a large side, the large side is more stable on top of the wood and cuts straighter, more stable and just better over all.
Another great video. I can always trust you for enjoyment with my coffee.
Thank so much and enjoy that coffee!
the painters tape is my favorite technique
Great video!
very helpful...Thank you.
8:17 bookmarking this for future reference, really cool!
Thank you Sir again
Recent tip for making the OSZCTSG.
First, check that your blade is parallel to guide. Mine was out of alignment most probably because of a fall.
Next, if you can leave a little more than an 1/8, if you skim here you have a chance that the blade will deflect. In the same note, do a slim cut first and also don't cut way deeper than you need to avoid deflecting.
Great tip on that one. Thanks so much!
@@LRN2DIY I learnt the hard way... but having a OSZCTSG is a must!!
Gostei. Obrigado.
Love your shirt
Start with cutting with the weight of saw supported. You cut with the wide part of the baseplate unsupported which is why the saw tilted that caused the burning.
I got a dull 7 1/4 blade and I use economy super glue and apply it down the cut line and spray that with isopropyl alcohol to act as an accelerant. Once it gets hard seconds later I cut. It ain't perfect but that's what sandpaper is for.
Just got an 18tooth blade with my DeWalt circular lol
its obvious you are a pro...thanks for also being real.....new sub
Great tips, I like the box cutter one because I have all sorts of blades that can work as well. Tiny nitpick: that styrofoam board serving as a sacrificial base for the saw is problematic- when damaged, they release gases that are bad for the environment, if that's something you care about. Food for thought.
Great tips 🎉
Excellent video Brother
Thanks, Will!
5:40 you’re actually hilarious 😂😂😂😂… That really made me laugh, so much I showed it my girlfriend who also lol’d!! Great video too, thank you
You could just retract the blade by going to zero depth ❤
The tray was a good idea maybe using a fin guard under the tray like table saws have
realmente gracias por hacerlo en español !!!!!
Great job!
Like your video and ideas, however when it comes to the Zero clearance and put it on the desk you remove the battery and lift the circular saw. I remove the cable or battery when done cutting.
sir , for zero clearance using a board stuck with duct tape is a disaster waiting to happen don't you think?
I think you forgot something far more important... Replacing the blade appropriately!
Really? What do you think he was talking about at 5:15?
@@jimcargill-bs2sx he's talking about the model of blade; teeth number, type, etc. What I am referring to is the wear on the teeth of that blade causing a necessity for replacing that specific blade with another blade of the same model. 😊
less worry on that with Diablo. blades. they last.
@@kensleylewis less worry is not no worry. Eventually you need to change the blade. Do it instead of using a full blade. Even Diablo blades can and should be replaced.
@@MikeNovellieu acho que o vídeo é válido em pelo menos dois pontos. O primeiro é praticar a personalização de gabaritos. O segundo é economizar dinheiro por conta do aumento da vida útil de uma serra não afiável ou aumentar o tempo de uso entre afiações e isso é bom para o meio ambiente.
Também é válido no caso de dificuldades para afiar ou comprar nova serra. Suponho que seja fabricado na China e pode ter atrasos na importação.
Thanks
thanks Nils
Always informative and a great video! Thanks Nils!
Thank you, Shawn! Have a good one :)
Excellent , thx
Excellent thank you Nils.
Why don’t you leave the last version on the saw all the time? When would you want less than the best cut one can achieve?
We’re you searching for the word ‘capture’ by the way?
Bob
England
Hey Bob, good to hear from you. The only reason you might take it off is for angled cuts. The zero clearance shoe is really only set up for 90 degree cuts but you could make separate ones for 45s and such too. And yes! That’s the word I was looking for. Cheers!
Where did you get the shop vac adapter for your saw? I have a Ridgid circular saw and would love to connect to shop vac or my dc. Thanks!
higher count tooth makes great finish
I have a circular saw that bucks like crazy. Im terrified to use it. Yet I have tried all the suggested things, like using a new sharp blade, making sure the work piece is flat, I use a jig to go straight like you did, and still does it. Smokes, burns and binds up. What am I doing wrong? Thanks and as usual I learn a lot from your videos and the hard work that you put in to them does not go unnoticed.
Boy, that' s a tough one. If you've got a new blade (decent tooth count, like 40+?) and you're definitely cutting in a straight line, then the only other thing I can think of is that maybe the blade isn't seated properly on the arbor. I wonder if you can borrow someone else's circular saw and see if you notice a difference. Could be a manufacturing defect that makes it wobbly or lopsided, I suppose. Thanks for watching and for your kind words and I hope you find a solution!
@@LRN2DIY It's an old saw now but it was new when I bought it and it has had this problem since the first time I used it with both the blade that came with it and different new blades. It's a Milwaukee corded saw from around 2008 back when those tools were more robust in my opinion. I have a much newer M18 cordless circ saw that is fine but I haven't tried to cut sheet stock with it yet, only dimensional lumber. Most of the time I cut sheet stock on a panel saw or table saw. Circular saw is really only for when I'm in the field which isn't all that often.
Check the alignment of the saw to the base, something is getting pinched and you are experiencing kick back.
Make sure the depth of the blade is not too deep. Set the depth to approx. thickness of material + 1/8”. If the blade is too deep, then more surface area of it is exposed to the material and is more likely to bind and kick
@@TheKingOfInappropriateCommentsprovavelmente tua máquina é apropriada para carpintaria sem grande precisão, trabalho bruto.
Para marcenaria tem poucos modelos com precisão mais adequada. Mas o uso correto também ajuda.
Now i know how to make a perfect "ca" with my circular "sa" :)
I think the guard on a skilsaw is more dangerous than without, especially when cutting small pieces.....keep the saw facing down while blade is spinning and there is no reason to be nervous......as a builder since 80s Ive learned to just turn saw sideways and lay the saw down after a cut....the guard is a PITA
Doesn't the tip about the bottom face is the good face get disproved by the very clean cuts you had when you scored the top face in the previous 2 tips?
Why not score it using a dull, dinged up utility knife as well?
Maybe do just in the first cuts already the wider part of the saw onto the board, with more Surface to support itself the cut would be more stable.
All these years I listened to bad tips and horrible advice. Yeah it’s nice to have pro skills but wood is expensive and mistakes waste time.
Thank you!!
Saved and Subscribed!
You are using the wrong side of the saw, use the wide side for perfect cut. Wide side will take big surface to sit on the sheet and would be easy to balance the saw
Nice 🙏🏼
9:52 - 😂 hahaha, I know this feeling.
Why do you cut with the "SMALLEST" saw Support? Move your Guide back and then cut. It helps stop wobble as you move the Saw and helps reduce Tear Out.
I believe "capture" was the word you were looking for.
For the zero clearance plate build a stand that you can put the saw down on. 🤔 🏴👍
gran doblaje hasta le pusieron las R como las diria un estadounidense!!! 💪
is this a PIR foam board you're cutting on? might not be all too good to breathe its dust in i heard
Nice graphics!
Thank you! And thanks for watching :)
#3 was the method shown to me as a child by my carpenter granddad born ~1933. What is shown here seems a long way around the idea that was shown to me though. Draw your line to be cut, put down another piece of plywood right along that line sitting atop the wood to be cut, and then cut the board, allowing a blade depth just deep enough to account for the added offset. Fancier methods have their time and place but keeping around a bunch of templates seems taxing even with the space of a shop, and out in the field it seems outright unpractical.
'Painters tape' is more ubiquitous these days than it used to be, I suspect because of the development in adhesives used in similar products like post it notes. The two ideas seems related though, #3 and the tape.
A lot of people don't know the trick about making sure the side showing being face down
Why not let the shoe rest on a U-shaped block with it 'legs' about 2 inches?
That way the circular saw itself lies flat, protect the teeth of the saw and when it is resting you can never touch the blade. Would also work for multiple blades and/or saws
Awesome, measure once cut twice
Great thank god it’s only 1/4 inch thick any thicker this video would be an hour long
Fun fact is I keep my edc so sharp I can cut luan as if it was cardboard my coworkers didn’t believe me but I proved everyone wrong. Now everyone wants me to sharpen there knives and chisels and whatnot 😂
Em algumas serras a proteção atrapalha o corte perfeito
Hey LRN2DIY, I was waiting for you to say “you know, to make it more rigid (RIDGID)” @14:00. Would have been a good pun.
Missed opportunity! Haha - thanks for sharing.
@@LRN2DIY thanks for the tips! I’ll be trying the zero clearance tip in the morning.
Nowadays, you can use carbide multi wheel for worry free fine cuts.
Un consejo cortar un milímetro antes para evitar ese desperfecto y luego reparar con lija o ruteadores
13:29 Set screw: the phrase you’re looking for is “captively mate”. It’s an Australian thing, mate. (And that’s just wrong-I’m Irish-American.)
Seus vídeos estão dublado em português