Very cool rig! A couple tid bits that I might suggest. Rear end was bobbing quite a bit, might want to turn up your rear low-speed compression and rebound dampening. Also for 35s, even with the BMC, that much negative offset will have the tire hitting the inner fender with a moderate amount of compression while turning. I highly recommend getting a LCA that will move the tire forward an inch. That coupled with the BMC does a great job of clearancing the rear fender wall and allowing you to get a good 4-5 degrees of caster. I also went with fiberglass fenders so that I just wouldn't have to deal with any rubbing and have no regrets!
Thanks for the input. Yeah I have noticed tie rear end getting real bouncy and have put off different wheels to change the off set but I think it’s time. Tue harder I wheel it the more things u notice needing tweaked a little. Thanks for the suggestions
Metal tech 3 inch bump stop extensions. The factory bumps are removed, the extension gets installed and then the OEM bumpstop gets reinstalled. I went with these until I decide on Hydraulic or active bumps, however I don’t have an issue with these and they seem to work well.
@@Wheel2LiveOffRoadhave you considered running longer links in the rear? @Tinker’s Adventure has a great video showing how rear travel affects front travel. And how leaving your rear sway bar in helps to keep the rig level, and minimize lifting wheels in the air
@@knives4reason725 I have considered it. The travel on this setup has eliminated most of the wheel lifting but it does get just a little tippy. In an effort to achieve more balance I’m exploring more options with links and sway bars. I have watched his videos on this topic and it’s quite revealing.
Very cool rig! A couple tid bits that I might suggest. Rear end was bobbing quite a bit, might want to turn up your rear low-speed compression and rebound dampening. Also for 35s, even with the BMC, that much negative offset will have the tire hitting the inner fender with a moderate amount of compression while turning. I highly recommend getting a LCA that will move the tire forward an inch. That coupled with the BMC does a great job of clearancing the rear fender wall and allowing you to get a good 4-5 degrees of caster. I also went with fiberglass fenders so that I just wouldn't have to deal with any rubbing and have no regrets!
Thanks for the input. Yeah I have noticed tie rear end getting real bouncy and have put off different wheels to change the off set but I think it’s time. Tue harder I wheel it the more things u notice needing tweaked a little. Thanks for the suggestions
Great view from the trails man. Hope you had a blast at jambo!!!
Absolutely had a blast. The best event and it gets better every year. Thanks for the comment.
I've got almost the same setup suspension wise, but loaded a little heavier. How is highway driving without the rear swaybar.
You can feel the body roll but it’s not bad enough to feel unsafe.
Iv been trying to watch your videos over and over to see if you went over it…. What bump stops are you running on the rear?
Metal tech 3 inch bump stop extensions. The factory bumps are removed, the extension gets installed and then the OEM bumpstop gets reinstalled. I went with these until I decide on Hydraulic or active bumps, however I don’t have an issue with these and they seem to work well.
Are those the LT rear shocks?
Yes they are.
Is your rear sway bar removed?
Yes. Front and rear are removed.
@@Wheel2LiveOffRoadhave you considered running longer links in the rear? @Tinker’s Adventure has a great video showing how rear travel affects front travel. And how leaving your rear sway bar in helps to keep the rig level, and minimize lifting wheels in the air
@@knives4reason725 I have considered it. The travel on this setup has eliminated most of the wheel lifting but it does get just a little tippy. In an effort to achieve more balance I’m exploring more options with links and sway bars. I have watched his videos on this topic and it’s quite revealing.
How’s it drive without swaybars?