The parallax shots are beautiful (I watched the full movie yesterday, btw). It looks like the shot at 8:59 is following London after it was done with it all and just picked up and started walking off somewhere.
Phillip!!!! And you post on a Sunday night! I love you. I'm watching this before bed. Your voice is the best. Reading that probably sounds.. Weird. Sorry Phillip.
Hey philip, you rock. You explain and explore beyond my knowledge and I learn so much from it. I will received my Mavic 3 today so experimenting is just starting for me but your videos are very helpful, thanks.
Thanks you Andre! Make sure you was the videos especially the movie one as there is so much in there that will help you! If you bought the cine then part 1 explains the workflow problems and also shows how to get shallow depth of field. Have fun and be very careful with Activetrack!
@@Fluefiskeavs you mean DJI care+? It’s expensive but my god you need it! DJI won’t cover you for anything unless you can prove it’s the drones fault otherwise.
I've absolutely fallen in love with these telephoto drone shots since seeing then on your Instagram. Such a unique perspective that really changes things up from everyone else's drone shots. After watching the movie, It does seem to be a bit emblematic of the whole drone though - a really cool idea, but just help back from odd or poor implementation. Still a really rad little device though!
Huh? How did you work that out? Look at the data on the screen a 6.50 and then look at the focal length. Trust me, I am the one who’s been using this drone for 3 months and trust me as I am the one with the actual data on the screen! 😂😂😂
@@philipbloom Double check: first by superimposing a telephoto picture on a photo taken from the same location by the main camera. You will get 712 pixels wide (compared to the 5280). It remains to make the ratio on the focal lengths. Second check: physically measure a distance and an FOV and do some trigonometry calculations. Note that the eq focal lengh of the main camera is more about 24.9 mm.
@@paladrone mate. I have the actually focal length on exit data and drone data. I also have the information from DJI, who put it at 162mm. Very strange to question what the camera and Lightroom are staring the focal length as! You logic is flawed. You are taking what as your base for this? Nobody, nowhere apart from you has come up with 175mm. All you have done is take what you apparently state the main lens is and multiply it by 7! Why would I start getting tape measures out? The top camera doesn’t even take a raw photo so you cannot get anything accurate due to whatever processing and optics correction the camera does!
@@philipbloom believe me, paladrone knows his stuff. check his channel (he adds english subtitles in most watched videos, too), he made best techical m3 review i've seen so for on tube. and he clearly mentioned equivalent (coming from actual fov from pixels/frame etc, i guess).
@@izoyt that’s fine but I am going off of technical data coming off the drone and other information I have. What he is saying to do is so over the top. You can go down that road with any camera if you want and the field of view can be different to what it should be done to how the camera processes the image. Why should I doubt Lightroom and the exif data? What he is suggesting is so unnecessary. I never go with DJI’s specs as they are always off.
Thank you for your efforts to inform us. Another amazing piece of hardware from DJI with unfinished software. It's almost as if DJI enjoys hearing its customers yelling for the same firmware enhancements after each release. Or they enjoy using their customers at unwilling crowd sourced beta testers.
@@philipbloom I apologize if my comment was not appreciated. I would like to clarify that my intention in providing the timestamp was to help viewers who might be short on time and want to skip to the section that is relevant to them. I understand that some viewers may prefer to watch the entire video, and I respect that. However, as there are no chapters in this TH-cam video I thought it might be helpful to some viewers to provide a specific starting point. If anything I also wish TH-cam would allow private/pinned comments for those who left the comments. That way when I come back to a video, such as yours here that I have added to a private playlist, I can see the note I left for myself.
referring to the aperture i guess... as mentioned in the conversation with Gerald its f/24 equiv (tele) vs f/5.6 (main), so the tele sensor need higher ISOs moreso with an ND filter covering it
No it’s not the aperture. Earlier with the tests with Harriet’s photo I worked out that it needed about a stop more light at the corresponding settings. Mostly down to the processing of the sensor but also the poor lens. The reality is give it AS MUCH LIGHT AS POSSIBLE! The sensor gets noisy very very fast. You must keep that ISO down. Even with that one stop difference for corresponding settings the noise patterns do not even vaguely match. I’ve never got a clean image from that top sensor even at iso 100 in a photo, it gets a lot worse as the iso increases. Just avoid using any ND if you can! At least until we get manual control :)
@@philipbloom -Mavic newbie (just got it) - my question is if we intend to use the tele lens, do we need to either take off the ND we are using on the main lens - do separate flights/clips, or is there a way to go back & forth between the 2 cameras without bringing it down & changing or removing the ND? I know when I'm shooting jobs I'm often shooting some stills, some video as I'm in position, fly to new angles or across a property, more stills, etc. So- is there a way to set parameters for main camera - say with an ND8 or ND4 - that will also be usable for the tele?
@@jeffellis6544 I recommend you buy the dual ND Freewell filters that I asked them to make. They have a 3 stop difference, the weakest ND for the main camera is clear on this set. If you don’t then the key is always to set your ND for the top camera so you can shoot at ISO 100. You can always close the main camera iris if it’s too bright.
@@philipbloom -Thanks Phillip. Had the M3 a month now. just starting to do serious testing on how to best use the 7x. I can see it being a pretty useful tool - as long as I don't expect too much in quality. I'm trying to figure now how to get even close to matching color & contrast to the main so I can mix in clips with the main. I had an 8x ND on past couple times and I can see that was prob. not the best idea for the Tele. I think next shoot I will concentrate on doing as many of the main camera stills & video first, then do a separate flight without ND and do a bunch of 7x shots.
It is odd as the huge draw with the Mavic 3 was the 4/3 sensor for me, but I am surprised how much I love using the telephoto! I am finding if you focus between 100-200meters it is surprisingly usable, but further from this, it is like there is diffraction. The stabilisation is simply astonishing and have even captured shots in 30mph + winds and it is still super steady.
Another quality ‘how to’ film, Philip if you don’t mind me pick’n your brain a little: In an earlier film about the M3 you lamented the fact that you couldn’t in tripod mode fly backwards as slowly and as stable as you could with the M2P. Since DJI issued the latest firmware updates do you know if they had an effect on the aforementioned issues? Thanks for your time, truly grateful. Paul R.
Would you still use the telephoto top camera now that the newer firmware has added strong AI sharpening to the image? Do you know if there's a way to disable it? Curious to know your thoughts. I think it makes things look more iphone-like, which isn't necessarily great.
I have two great quotes, one for the M3 and one for the M3 Classic (just $450 apart) would you stretch for the M3 for the Telephoto Lens or is it not worth it in your experience with the drone? Also, as it’s pretty old, is there a replacement on the horizon? I’m coming from an Air 2S. Cheers 🍻
Awesome video! How does the telephoto video quality compare to the mavic 2 zoom camera? About the same? Since i have been flying that drone for a long time It would help me to even better understand the telephoto video quality.
I just downloaded the update for Topaz DeNoise AI. It will be a while before I get a chance to try it out but hoping it will clean up some of the crop zoom for the M3. I don't have a clue what it will do to the image yet.
Just a question - I think the math might be wrong on the lenses. The info says the m43 lens is 24mm 2.8 Full frame equivalent. So they already did the math on it. I think the lens itself is actually a 12mm 1.4. Might be the same issue with the telephoto lens. It might not be an f23 or whatever : )
How did you work out that? It is most definitely not a 12mm equivalent, that's crazy wide! It's a 12.2mm micro four-thirds lens F2.8. If you can explain what you mean it would help!
@@philipbloom no I think that's the confusion. DJI said it's Full frame equivalent to 24mm and full frame equivalent to f/ 2.8. That's what I'm wondering did they just do the math for us on both the mm and the F/ ? So is it a 12mm 1.4 lens and they are saying it's 24mm 2.8 35mm equiv?
@@danreynoldsphotography2735 no they did the mm full frame equivalent not the aperture. 100%. Why on Earth would they give customers the full frame f-stop? Which company does that? Everyone who makes small sensor cameras give the full frame equivalent mm but never F stop, it would be terrible marketing and it also is irrelevant. Like F22 equivalent on the top camera is irrelevant.
Thank you! From the calculations and data it seems the telephoto lens is about 4 stops of light less than the main camera. I see you were often able to get it to record at a desirable 1/50 shutter speed. Did you ever need to use an ND filter to achieve this? My guess is that usually that no ND filter was the correct choice to achieve a 1/50 shutter speed with a relatively low ISO, maybe an ND4 at most in super bright conditions. Does this match your experience?
There's no way to know what the shutter speed is whilst shooting. What I do know is that with bright sunshine at ISO 100 shutter speed is around 1/240th of a second. Until there is manual control using ND is dangerous. Any ISO increase would destroy the image.
Correct. I wasn’t. Gerald gave me theory which we used to see what they would be at full frame equivalent in theory. Then I did real work tests. If DJI had done their job properly the cameras at the same settings should give the same exposure, that’s why I LITERALLY said the one stop exposure difference between the two is down to processing and light fall off from the plastic lens. I spent A LOT OF TIME comparing the two for exposure calculations. Even with the one stop light difference, the processing is so poor I actually recommend giving it as much light as possible before clipping. Part of the reason there is no manual exposure is because the exposures don’t match. Look at the section with the ND 64 on
They got it backwards. The tele lens should have been the higher quality larger sensor camera. That should be the first camera. We're tired of the classic wide look. Zoomed in shots are more cinematic for drone work.
Erm no. Firstly of the word cinematic is meaningless. Secondly it’s a specialist shot. Thirdly do you know how heavy a MFT lens would need to be for that focal length and be decent quality. Not a Mavic am afraid. Get an inspire 2!
@@philipbloom I don’t want an inspire 2. I want a small drone that has better telephoto capabilities, because that looks *better* (add any word you want there.) We both know they could put a small tele lens on a good sensor for that package size. If the iphone can have a high quality 77mm equivalent tele lens, so can a mavic.
@@AlaskaInMotion please don’t say we both know they can do that because they can’t! Not without compromises. You are also badly mistaken if you think have a tele lens as the main lens would be a success for them. What they should have done is not used a piece of crap plastic lens and tried to hide its softness with over sharpening.
DJI never said that the telephoto was for “finding shots” lol that’s not what their marketing said either but agreed the telephoto is almost useless. Very soft.
Wrong on both fronts. It was called explorer mode for a reason and you CAN use the telephoto, it's been improved and there are ways to make it look better in post. .
Something is rotten in the state of Denmark .. Hahaha, Down here in the South, with the sun all around us, we will need to study mathematics to use nd filters...😍🇬🇷👍
I’ve not been able to get iso 100 in video with locked exposure even when pointing at the sun. I would give that top camera as much light as you can. By my tests I noticed a one stop fall off between the two cameras at the same settings but I think it needs a good two or three stops more light. We need to try and stop that top camera ISO increasing
Sorry, but what is your point? That's the imaging area measurements of the sensor? If you don't understand the 4/3rds refers to then I have a whole video about sensor measurements from a few months ago. It does NOT refer to the aspect ratio. Is that really so complicated? life is too short for cryptic comments. If you are confused and my info isn't clear enough have you tried Google? Or why not ask DJI yourself if there is something confusing you. What a truly odd comment! The internet is weird. Thanks.
The parallax shots are beautiful (I watched the full movie yesterday, btw). It looks like the shot at 8:59 is following London after it was done with it all and just picked up and started walking off somewhere.
This is what I was talking about, thanks for make a resume of your last video, very informative
Phillip!!!! And you post on a Sunday night! I love you. I'm watching this before bed. Your voice is the best.
Reading that probably sounds.. Weird. Sorry Phillip.
It’s fine! It’s the internet, the home of weird! 😂
@@philipbloom ☺️
Fantastic discussion and instruction on using the Mavic 3 telephoto. Thank you very much!
Hey philip, you rock. You explain and explore beyond my knowledge and I learn so much from it. I will received my Mavic 3 today so experimenting is just starting for me but your videos are very helpful, thanks.
Thanks you Andre! Make sure you was the videos especially the movie one as there is so much in there that will help you! If you bought the cine then part 1 explains the workflow problems and also shows how to get shallow depth of field. Have fun and be very careful with Activetrack!
@@philipbloom I already did, didn't bought the cine. But I am concidering the replacement pack :-| Thanks for the warning though.
@@Fluefiskeavs you mean DJI care+? It’s expensive but my god you need it! DJI won’t cover you for anything unless you can prove it’s the drones fault otherwise.
@@philipbloom So do you recommend it or not?
@@Fluefiskeavs DJI care yes. The Mavic 3? It’s not a simple answer, if it was there wouldn’t be a 72 minute part 2 review!
2 videos in 2 days!! What a treat :)
Same video though 😂
@@philipbloom No harm in rewatching ;)
@@philipbloom take my additional upvote.
Hope you are on the mend! Let’s hope 22 is great for everyone.. always look forward to your vids, looking forward to your next live!! :-)) Gaz
I've absolutely fallen in love with these telephoto drone shots since seeing then on your Instagram. Such a unique perspective that really changes things up from everyone else's drone shots. After watching the movie, It does seem to be a bit emblematic of the whole drone though - a really cool idea, but just help back from odd or poor implementation. Still a really rad little device though!
Nice clean shots from the telephoto lens!
Using the top camera to locate things is handy for sure, but it would be nice to get better footage from it. I’m loving the Mavic 3 though.
Great idea separating this from part 2. hope you're feeling better!
Good info and style. Thank you
Good job. Check telephoto eq focal lens, it is more about 175 mm than 162.
Huh? How did you work that out? Look at the data on the screen a 6.50 and then look at the focal length. Trust me, I am the one who’s been using this drone for 3 months and trust me as I am the one with the actual data on the screen! 😂😂😂
@@philipbloom Double check: first by superimposing a telephoto picture on a photo taken from the same location by the main camera. You will get 712 pixels wide (compared to the 5280). It remains to make the ratio on the focal lengths.
Second check: physically measure a distance and an FOV and do some trigonometry calculations.
Note that the eq focal lengh of the main camera is more about 24.9 mm.
@@paladrone mate. I have the actually focal length on exit data and drone data. I also have the information from DJI, who put it at 162mm. Very strange to question what the camera and Lightroom are staring the focal length as!
You logic is flawed. You are taking what as your base for this? Nobody, nowhere apart from you has come up with 175mm. All you have done is take what you apparently state the main lens is and multiply it by 7!
Why would I start getting tape measures out? The top camera doesn’t even take a raw photo so you cannot get anything accurate due to whatever processing and optics correction the camera does!
@@philipbloom believe me, paladrone knows his stuff. check his channel (he adds english subtitles in most watched videos, too), he made best techical m3 review i've seen so for on tube. and he clearly mentioned equivalent (coming from actual fov from pixels/frame etc, i guess).
@@izoyt that’s fine but I am going off of technical data coming off the drone and other information I have. What he is saying to do is so over the top.
You can go down that road with any camera if you want and the field of view can be different to what it should be done to how the camera processes the image. Why should I doubt Lightroom and the exif data? What he is suggesting is so unnecessary.
I never go with DJI’s specs as they are always off.
“ I called my Mum ,but she wasn’t home so I call the equivalent,I called a Canadian “ classic
Great effort you put into this video! I appreciate the tips! Thanks!
I agree! I'm already impressed with the Mavic 3 now but if DJI can match the image quality of both cameras, that would make the drone even better!
OMG. I'll quickly get my mask on to watch the rest of your film . . .
Thank you for your efforts to inform us. Another amazing piece of hardware from DJI with unfinished software. It's almost as if DJI enjoys hearing its customers yelling for the same firmware enhancements after each release. Or they enjoy using their customers at unwilling crowd sourced beta testers.
Pleased with DJI's updates on the 162mm lens since you made this video. I think they watched...
Dji mavic 3 ...the best man 👍👍👍👍🙏🔔👈
Tips start at 8:35 🙏
Please do not do things like that. This isn't tiktok. Telling people to skip essential parts of the video is not appreciated.
@@philipbloom I apologize if my comment was not appreciated. I would like to clarify that my intention in providing the timestamp was to help viewers who might be short on time and want to skip to the section that is relevant to them. I understand that some viewers may prefer to watch the entire video, and I respect that. However, as there are no chapters in this TH-cam video I thought it might be helpful to some viewers to provide a specific starting point.
If anything I also wish TH-cam would allow private/pinned comments for those who left the comments. That way when I come back to a video, such as yours here that I have added to a private playlist, I can see the note I left for myself.
Hi Philip. At 10:03, you say that we should remember that the "top camera needs more light." Can you let me know why that is the case?
referring to the aperture i guess... as mentioned in the conversation with Gerald its f/24 equiv (tele) vs f/5.6 (main), so the tele sensor need higher ISOs moreso with an ND filter covering it
No it’s not the aperture. Earlier with the tests with Harriet’s photo I worked out that it needed about a stop more light at the corresponding settings. Mostly down to the processing of the sensor but also the poor lens. The reality is give it AS MUCH LIGHT AS POSSIBLE! The sensor gets noisy very very fast. You must keep that ISO down.
Even with that one stop difference for corresponding settings the noise patterns do not even vaguely match. I’ve never got a clean image from that top sensor even at iso 100 in a photo, it gets a lot worse as the iso increases. Just avoid using any ND if you can! At least until we get manual control :)
@@philipbloom -Mavic newbie (just got it) - my question is if we intend to use the tele lens, do we need to either take off the ND we are using on the main lens - do separate flights/clips, or is there a way to go back & forth between the 2 cameras without bringing it down & changing or removing the ND?
I know when I'm shooting jobs I'm often shooting some stills, some video as I'm in position, fly to new angles or across a property, more stills, etc.
So- is there a way to set parameters for main camera - say with an ND8 or ND4 - that will also be usable for the tele?
@@jeffellis6544 I recommend you buy the dual ND Freewell filters that I asked them to make. They have a 3 stop difference, the weakest ND for the main camera is clear on this set.
If you don’t then the key is always to set your ND for the top camera so you can shoot at ISO 100. You can always close the main camera iris if it’s too bright.
@@philipbloom -Thanks Phillip. Had the M3 a month now. just starting to do serious testing on how to best use the 7x. I can see it being a pretty useful tool - as long as I don't expect too much in quality. I'm trying to figure now how to get even close to matching color & contrast to the main so I can mix in clips with the main.
I had an 8x ND on past couple times and I can see that was prob. not the best idea for the Tele.
I think next shoot I will concentrate on doing as many of the main camera stills & video first, then do a separate flight without ND and do a bunch of 7x shots.
It is odd as the huge draw with the Mavic 3 was the 4/3 sensor for me, but I am surprised how much I love using the telephoto! I am finding if you focus between 100-200meters it is surprisingly usable, but further from this, it is like there is diffraction. The stabilisation is simply astonishing and have even captured shots in 30mph + winds and it is still super steady.
Yep. It uses a gyro data EIS like Rocksteady on the top camera.
2:28 this one is beautiful. Just beautiful.
Thank you! It was getting this shot that changed my mind about the camera
Not for nothing, I loved the gruff voice. :)
Another quality ‘how to’ film, Philip if you don’t mind me pick’n your brain a little: In an earlier film about the M3 you lamented the fact that you couldn’t in tripod mode fly backwards as slowly and as stable as you could with the M2P. Since DJI issued the latest firmware updates do you know if they had an effect on the aforementioned issues? Thanks for your time, truly grateful. Paul R.
Would you still use the telephoto top camera now that the newer firmware has added strong AI sharpening to the image? Do you know if there's a way to disable it? Curious to know your thoughts. I think it makes things look more iphone-like, which isn't necessarily great.
I have two great quotes, one for the M3 and one for the M3 Classic (just $450 apart) would you stretch for the M3 for the Telephoto Lens or is it not worth it in your experience with the drone? Also, as it’s pretty old, is there a replacement on the horizon? I’m coming from an Air 2S. Cheers 🍻
Hello DJI, please listen to what the man has to say and implement it. ASAP.
i wonder if topaz video enhance ai could make the tele lens footage to better... would you share some footage so that i coult try that ?
a little bit yes.
Awesome video! How does the telephoto video quality compare to the mavic 2 zoom camera? About the same? Since i have been flying that drone for a long time It would help me to even better understand the telephoto video quality.
The Mavic 2 zoom has a much better image. This is soft
I just downloaded the update for Topaz DeNoise AI. It will be a while before I get a chance to try it out but hoping it will clean up some of the crop zoom for the M3. I don't have a clue what it will do to the image yet.
Dont use denoise use sharpen or even AI
Just a question - I think the math might be wrong on the lenses. The info says the m43 lens is 24mm 2.8 Full frame equivalent. So they already did the math on it. I think the lens itself is actually a 12mm 1.4. Might be the same issue with the telephoto lens. It might not be an f23 or whatever : )
How did you work out that? It is most definitely not a 12mm equivalent, that's crazy wide! It's a 12.2mm micro four-thirds lens F2.8. If you can explain what you mean it would help!
@@philipbloom no I think that's the confusion. DJI said it's Full frame equivalent to 24mm and full frame equivalent to f/ 2.8. That's what I'm wondering did they just do the math for us on both the mm and the F/ ? So is it a 12mm 1.4 lens and they are saying it's 24mm 2.8 35mm equiv?
@@danreynoldsphotography2735 no they did the mm full frame equivalent not the aperture. 100%. Why on Earth would they give customers the full frame f-stop? Which company does that? Everyone who makes small sensor cameras give the full frame equivalent mm but never F stop, it would be terrible marketing and it also is irrelevant. Like F22 equivalent on the top camera is irrelevant.
@@danreynoldsphotography2735 if you don’t believe me after my 3 months working on these reviews then look at the exit data. Cheers!
Thank you! From the calculations and data it seems the telephoto lens is about 4 stops of light less than the main camera. I see you were often able to get it to record at a desirable 1/50 shutter speed. Did you ever need to use an ND filter to achieve this? My guess is that usually that no ND filter was the correct choice to achieve a 1/50 shutter speed with a relatively low ISO, maybe an ND4 at most in super bright conditions. Does this match your experience?
There's no way to know what the shutter speed is whilst shooting. What I do know is that with bright sunshine at ISO 100 shutter speed is around 1/240th of a second. Until there is manual control using ND is dangerous. Any ISO increase would destroy the image.
You can't deduce comparative ISO performance with math. As the sensors could be entirely different manufacturer/ image processing algorithms.
Correct. I wasn’t. Gerald gave me theory which we used to see what they would be at full frame equivalent in theory. Then I did real work tests. If DJI had done their job properly the cameras at the same settings should give the same exposure, that’s why I LITERALLY said the one stop exposure difference between the two is down to processing and light fall off from the plastic lens. I spent A LOT OF TIME comparing the two for exposure calculations. Even with the one stop light difference, the processing is so poor I actually recommend giving it as much light as possible before clipping.
Part of the reason there is no manual exposure is because the exposures don’t match. Look at the section with the ND 64 on
09:25 awesome shot
Dji team: oh fuck, here we go again
They got it backwards. The tele lens should have been the higher quality larger sensor camera. That should be the first camera. We're tired of the classic wide look. Zoomed in shots are more cinematic for drone work.
Erm no. Firstly of the word cinematic is meaningless. Secondly it’s a specialist shot. Thirdly do you know how heavy a MFT lens would need to be for that focal length and be decent quality. Not a Mavic am afraid. Get an inspire 2!
@@philipbloom I don’t want an inspire 2. I want a small drone that has better telephoto capabilities, because that looks *better* (add any word you want there.) We both know they could put a small tele lens on a good sensor for that package size. If the iphone can have a high quality 77mm equivalent tele lens, so can a mavic.
@@AlaskaInMotion please don’t say we both know they can do that because they can’t! Not without compromises. You are also badly mistaken if you think have a tele lens as the main lens would be a success for them. What they should have done is not used a piece of crap plastic lens and tried to hide its softness with over sharpening.
bottom line is technology can never satisfy people. remember the days where drones were doing only 1080? yeah. be happy with what they offer now
If you go with that attitude then why should these companies bother making things good at all. What a daft thing to say!
DJI never said that the telephoto was for “finding shots” lol that’s not what their marketing said either but agreed the telephoto is almost useless. Very soft.
Wrong on both fronts. It was called explorer mode for a reason and you CAN use the telephoto, it's been improved and there are ways to make it look better in post. .
@@philipbloom - So between the Mavic 3 and Classic, is the Mavic 3 not worth it over the classic?
Something is rotten in the state of Denmark ..
Hahaha, Down here in the South, with the sun all around us, we will need to study mathematics to use nd filters...😍🇬🇷👍
I’ve not been able to get iso 100 in video with locked exposure even when pointing at the sun. I would give that top camera as much light as you can. By my tests I noticed a one stop fall off between the two cameras at the same settings but I think it needs a good two or three stops more light. We need to try and stop that top camera ISO increasing
If the sensor is 17.3 x 13 🤔
4/3 just means the width is 1.33x times the height 😯
Ask DJI for the exact sensor dimensions and see what they say 🙈
Sorry, but what is your point? That's the imaging area measurements of the sensor? If you don't understand the 4/3rds refers to then I have a whole video about sensor measurements from a few months ago. It does NOT refer to the aspect ratio. Is that really so complicated? life is too short for cryptic comments. If you are confused and my info isn't clear enough have you tried Google? Or why not ask DJI yourself if there is something confusing you. What a truly odd comment! The internet is weird. Thanks.
your shots with it do look nice but the quality is still junk.