16x16 LED Matrix Setup with WLED and ESP32, BEST Enclosure Design!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Join me as I unveil the my NEW design for a sleek and functional 16x16 LED Matrix Panel enclosure! I go into the step-by-step process of designing the enclosure and talk about some of the hiccups along the way, Sit back and relax as I guide you through the build from start to finish, then show you how to set it all up. Elevate your LED display game with this innovative project - perfect for tech enthusiasts, DIYers, and makers alike!
@21:57 I do mention that the maximum Power Supply needed to achieve full bright White is 15A (which is really overkill for this project) as 3A is more than enough, this was intended to be informational. If you do decide to go that route, then make sure you are using 18AWG wires, you may also wish to add some kind of ventilation to the case also. Thanks.
I've made all the Project files 100% free to download from ThingiVerse.com, Enjoy!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:649...
#ledmatrix #WLED #3DPrint
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Chapters
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00:00 - Introduction
01:35 - Back Plate Issues
07:13 - The Grid Design Considerations
08:40 - Assembly
10:14 - About Flashing ESP32 ( • How To Install WLED on... )
20:15 - Power On
22:24 - WLED Set-Up
23:30 - Finding the 1st Pixel
24:20 - Demo Effects
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Guides
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How To Flash your ESP32 Tutorial - • How To Install WLED on...
8x32 Matrix Enclosure - • LED Matrix Magic: Unve...
Create Pixel Art for your LED Matrix - • How To Create Pixel Ar...
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Shopping List Affiliate Links (Updated 02/18/2024)
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Please note that not all links below are affiliate links, if you use an affiliate link to buy a product, it does not affect the price you pay, and actually helps support my channel. Many thanks in advance. I will do my best to update the links on a regular basis. If you find a bad link please shoot me a message and let me know! info@mybritishcomputerguy.com
Bookmark the ones you use often!
LED Matrix - 16x16 - amzn.to/48kiXUo
AliExpress Link - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dn4...
LED Matrix - 8x32 - amzn.to/3OPHs4S
AliExpress Link - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ddd...
Switches - amzn.to/48mgfxt
AliExpress - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeV...
Barrel Socket - amzn.to/4bBookF
AliExpress - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeW...
ESP32-S amzn.to/3T0YSxW
Ali Express - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dle...
5v 15Amp Power Supply - amzn.to/4bKrti8
AliExpress - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dmp...
Iniu Powerbank - amzn.to/48C8mo1
USB A Pigtail (18AWG) - amzn.to/42RcDTe
AliExpress (Only 20AWG or thinner available) - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCo...
WAGO Connectors - amzn.to/3wox5i8
Stencil Sheets - www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hob...
3D Printer - amzn.to/3T3VCBZ In my opinion, the best quality 3D printer in its price range!
White PLA Filament (For Case) - amzn.to/3wq4uZS
Black PLA Filament (For Grid) - amzn.to/42HK7TW
Cutting Mat - amzn.to/49gneJC
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Cheers! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
The white grid is pretty nice actually, the bleed has that nice dithering like effect
You really do an excellent job of explaining what you are doing and how it's done. I've spent hours figuring this out with little bits here and there on channels and you do it all.
BTW a really cool addition to the project is to add a microphone and enable the sound reactive feature on WLED!
Cheers @happydupa, I have done sound reactive builds before and have a video that shows how to solder and configure a digital mic to an ESP32, so I figured if folks wanted a sound reactive version of this build they could look back at the other video and incorporate it. I probably should have mentioned it in the video though (derr) lol. I had a senior moment I guess. Thanks for the comment!
Ooight m8 You've earned my appreciation & gratitude.. GJ on ya lad you deserve bo'ole of wooer 🖖
Wtf Abdo that's not even funny...
Bo'ole of wooer? I'm originally from yorkshire and that to me sounds like Bowl of Water? Lol.
@@mybritishcomputerguy 🤣🤣🤣
Great job indeed very helpful and informative. Thanks
Thanks @Charliesoh I appreciate the kind words.
Love it, thanks for sharing.
You are so welcome!
Nice work
Thanks Sanzoro, I appreciate it. Hopefully many more think so also. It was a labor of love.
@8:05 Just FYI, it's a capacitor.
I wasn't too sure, thanks for clarifying. I learned something new today!
I don't have a 3D printer, but I have a cricut machine so I bought a small shadow box and built up a lattice from strips cut in black card stock. You should make another grid with black plastic to prevent light transmission to adjacent cells, or perhaps a layer of black spray paint would work.
Thanks beefnuts, I did eventually print a Black grid, I only used White for the prototype as that was the only PLA I had on hand, and I wanted to get the video out to the masses. lol. I had considered using Black spray paint, but I figured it would end up being rather messy! lol
You have done a great job in designing these projects. I've liked a few to use later when I get a 3D printer in approximately 6 months and start making my own. One thing I noticed is that you could have put depressions in the "holding cage"? That takes up the space between the LEDs and the backplate to make it easier for the wire run. It would take the bow out of the back panel. Other than that, great job, and I finally subscribed so as your channel comes and goes with the algorithm.
Thanks for your work! ✌🏽
depressions in the "holding cage"? can you clarify? i'm curious. You mean like cut out notches? I think I understand what you mean. That's actually a pretty good idea. If I were to do that I would need to make the main supports of the cage thicker as it would make the cage more flexible and not apply sufficient pressure against the LED matrix. Definitely worth exploring that option though. Thanks for thinking to let me know! As for the bow in the back panel, that was actually caused by the printing, it warped ever so slightly. I ended up taking some advice from a chap on a 3D printing forum who suggested cleaning the print plate with soap and water, and when I printed the Black parts I printed a back panel in Black.. long story short, the Black back panel did not warp!
Thanks for subscribing! I've got more stuff coming soon! and you're welcome, I really enjoy creating stuff!
@@mybritishcomputerguy - Never mind. I looked at the video again. There is more space between the piece that the esp32 is connected to than I first saw. I had to stop the video as it went by so fast I missed it. Cheers!
Get rid of the push button and use a pin on the ESP that supports touch sensitivity. One less part required 😊
Sound like an interesting idea. But surely I would still need a part to touch?
@@mybritishcomputerguy nothing other than a piece of exposed wire. Perhaps the case could be redesigned slightly to swap the button hole for a place to loop a wire out and then back inside to be secured?
@@mybritishcomputerguy you could make a grid array of holes on the top/side/back of the case to stitch some bare copper wire in and out to create a touch “pad”, so to speak.
That sounds pretty cool. I may try that approach for an upcoming project, i will certainly give you credit for the idea! cheers Mike.@@mikestewart4752
I've been working on this, the plan was to drive a nail into the box for a pad to touch and solder a wire to that. For some reason though, one of the touch pins on my esp32 fires constantly when enabled, no matter what the threshold is, so it is useless. I believe I need to compile wled myself so I can adjust some variables to make it less sensitive, but I havent got around to it.
Very nice. I am in search for the perfect 3D house for the same project and you are damn close for what I'm looking for :)
One Tip: If you can, use D head screws for the electronics (the ones with flat bottom under the head instead of the countersink cone).
Thanks, Yeah, I would have used the flat pancake style screws to secure the ESP32, I didn't have any on hand at the time. Also, I have never found any that are Phillips head style. I don't like using the slotted flat head style as the screwdriver has a tendency to slip off the head, and in the past I have damaged an ESP32 with a screwdriver using them. I'll be sure to mention that the next time though. Thanks for the comment.
Awsome Video very Well done. I would love to do this project aswell but when i download ur stil files it seems like the "NoHoleBackplate" File broke while u exported it could u maybe reupload it?
Thanks for the heads up, I'll look into it shortly
You get a like for pronouncing GIF correctly. 😁
lol, cheers Mark
How do you pronounce, "jiff" then? 🤔
#TeamG-IFF
How do you pronounce "Graphics"? Is it "Djraphics"? 😁👍
👍👍👍
where I can buy this diffuser?
The diffuser is basically a stencil sheet. This brand is from a store called Hobby Lobby here in the USA. I don't think all stencil sheets are created equal, I kind of lucked out with this brand. There should be a link to it in the description. You may have to try a couple of different brands before you find a comparable one if you are not buying the exact same one I used.
Thx for sharing your project. I believe you miscalculated the needed Amperage for the power supply needed.
The 0.06 value is per led. As you have 3 leds (RGB) for each pixel, you will need to multiply\y by three for the correct value.
I may have said per LED, when I actually meant per pixel. 0.06mA is the power draw for full white on one pixel.
@@mybritishcomputerguy You were correct with the total power draw. I could have recalculated first myself, before commenting.
It's all good :) @@WackyWindsurfer
Question - why not to save several 3D prints and use hot glue instead. Anyhow cool
I'm not sure I'm following what you are saying?
The G in GIF stands for Graphics not Giraffe.
lol, according to Stephen E. Wilhite (the creator of the GIF) he told the world it's pronounced JIF, so.. yup.. as in Giraffe! :)
maybe watch a you tube tutorial for 3d printing?
lol, what for? for figuring out how to prevent the PLA from warping? if so, i've watched plenty, but none of them really give any great advice on how to prevent it.
Where’s your current protection? That usb cable cannot tolerate the max potential current draw. The wago connectors will not tolerate that power draw if they are Chinese clones. The power switch is not rated for potential max current. There is no ventilation, how do you intend to manage the heat build up in the case? This is a great concept but dangerous implementation that could burn down your house. This information carries a lot of risk advising people that won’t know better how to put a potential fire hazard inside there house. It’s all good until it isn’t. Rethink your approach mate.
Thanks for the thoughtful comment, I'll start by saying you are right, the USB cable probably cannot tolerate the maximum "potential" current draw, but it's more than capable of handling what it's drawing in my demonstration. I'm not sure how much of the video you watched, but I was just using a USB dongle and 2A power supply as a means to test the unit.
As far as the Wago connectors are concerned, I recommended all connections where Wagos were being used be soldered (@09:29). Wago connectors were just being used for example purposes to show the connections, and tbh they are fine for 5VDC 3A. I didn't want to spend much of the video showing soldering.
As far as what I showed being a dangerous implementation, I would have to disagree with you on that. There really is minimal heat build up in the case, even now that I have hooked up to my 5VDC 3A power supply (Cell phone charger btw). I'm not sure how much experience you have with the WLED software, but it has a built in automatic brightness limiter, which automatically limits brightness, and prevents your PSU from being overloaded. It defaults to a 850mA max draw (if memory serves me correctly), I normally set this to 3000mA. The switch can handle this without issue, we're talking cell phone ampage here, even at 15A at 5VDC I doubt the switch would be a concern, had the build used 12VDC then I'd say their would be more of a concern (which is why I don't use 12V). I use a 5VDC 3A PSU to power most of my builds as they are all quite small and I steer clear of higher voltage, higher current builds. If I ever do a monster build, or create something that is going to generate heat or draw more current, then ventilation would indeed be incorporated as would fuses and heavy duty switches.
Thank you for taking time to write though, and based on your comments I will start discussing safety in future videos.