I’ve been thinking of doing this myself. I remember Adrian Black did something similar a couple of years back. The heat reduction I’m hoping will help with longevity of the drive.
Nice video! I have 5 working 1541's and have wanted to do this ever since Adrian Black did it on May 27th 2019. I marked it as watch later so I could find it again. When I finally got around to wanting to try it, I then saw in all the comments after it was made that the $2.30 PSU from AliExpress wasn't up to the job and Adrian had even pulled the link. I followed others to a few that used the Mean well RT-50 to do the job but watching them do it with that PSU was like trying to fit 10 pounds of potatoes into a 5 pound sack! Seeing your video this morning has me once again wanting to try and do this to one of my 1541's. The PSU you used, Mean well RPD-60 is nice and tiny, only a bit bigger than the one Adrian used so plenty of room to make it fit. Again, well done and this video has very high production value. I'm your newest sub and now I have another source of Commodore content. Thank you.
Wow, nice job but those rust spots, where the caps leaked, would drive me nuts. I'd take some CLR and a toothbrush to scrub it and remove the rust then do an enamel coating over it to protect the exposed area. BTW, nail polish is enamel paint and works great for coating stuff like that or adding an insulating layer to solder points that may touch a case point.
I’ll have to go back and watch the video again. I don’t remember which spots you mean, but I’ll open it back up and take your advice. Thanks for watching :)
I know this is 5 months too late but in case anyone else is wondering. That is not rust from cap leak, that is dried up glue that Commodore used to glue down the large caps to the board. It seems they didn't always use the same glue as some of the stuff they used dries out and can eat the mask. So yeah it is a good idea to get it off. Of my 1541s only 1 has this crusty glue, the rest have a different glue that is still white/clearish in color. You can also find this glue inside some C128 PSUs. So it is a good idea to check. Ray Carlsen's Commodore repair site has pictures and more info about this problem.
Thanks for watching, Robert! I just started creating videos around 7 months ago and I was overly zealous with the music. If you watch my more recent videos you'll notice that I've learned to tone it down. I appreciate your feedback.
My thought process when I was working on it was that I would route the new wires up through where the old ones routed. But yeah, I like your idea better. I just didn’t think of it :)
Wouldn’t it be better off removing the mech from the chassis to do the banging, drilling, handling, etc? … you can hurt the head connector wires or causing misalignment…..Also, much easier doing the wire crimping and soldering before placing everything in place in the chassis….IMHO. Thanks for sharing, nice video! Liked and subscribed!
Hi I'm Italian. I saw your video. I have a 1541 with power problems. I would like to do the same job as you. What components did you remove from the board? Can you make a list? Thank you
Hi Cardi, sure, no problem. The board in this video was PCB 251830 Rev A, Assy #250442. If you've got a different board, this won't apply to you. The parts I removed from the power supply circuit were: C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C16 C17 CR1 CR2 CR3 VR1 VR2 Good luck with your repair! Dave
Any technical reasons why you recommend not to swap ACN and ACL? I know for a fact it doesn't matter I've done it myself hundreds of times but just wanted to see if you had a reason that I overlooked.
I’ve been thinking of doing this myself. I remember Adrian Black did something similar a couple of years back. The heat reduction I’m hoping will help with longevity of the drive.
Hi, great and useful video. Greetings from the Czech Republic.
Nice video! I have 5 working 1541's and have wanted to do this ever since Adrian Black did it on May 27th 2019. I marked it as watch later so I could find it again. When I finally got around to wanting to try it, I then saw in all the comments after it was made that the $2.30 PSU from AliExpress wasn't up to the job and Adrian had even pulled the link. I followed others to a few that used the Mean well RT-50 to do the job but watching them do it with that PSU was like trying to fit 10 pounds of potatoes into a 5 pound sack! Seeing your video this morning has me once again wanting to try and do this to one of my 1541's. The PSU you used, Mean well RPD-60 is nice and tiny, only a bit bigger than the one Adrian used so plenty of room to make it fit. Again, well done and this video has very high production value. I'm your newest sub and now I have another source of Commodore content. Thank you.
I’m using this drive on a daily basis and it’s been working well. Good luck with your project!
Someone made a new PCB replacement.
Didn't actually know about the caps in the power socket. Hrm..
i changed the voltage regulators 5/12 v problems solved of heat
Wow, nice job but those rust spots, where the caps leaked, would drive me nuts. I'd take some CLR and a toothbrush to scrub it and remove the rust then do an enamel coating over it to protect the exposed area. BTW, nail polish is enamel paint and works great for coating stuff like that or adding an insulating layer to solder points that may touch a case point.
I’ll have to go back and watch the video again. I don’t remember which spots you mean, but I’ll open it back up and take your advice. Thanks for watching :)
I know this is 5 months too late but in case anyone else is wondering. That is not rust from cap leak, that is dried up glue that Commodore used to glue down the large caps to the board. It seems they didn't always use the same glue as some of the stuff they used dries out and can eat the mask. So yeah it is a good idea to get it off. Of my 1541s only 1 has this crusty glue, the rest have a different glue that is still white/clearish in color. You can also find this glue inside some C128 PSUs. So it is a good idea to check. Ray Carlsen's Commodore repair site has pictures and more info about this problem.
Great Job, good choice on the PRD-60a, 5v 5A, 12v 2A. (A little less volume on the music would be nice).
Thanks for watching, Robert! I just started creating videos around 7 months ago and I was overly zealous with the music. If you watch my more recent videos you'll notice that I've learned to tone it down. I appreciate your feedback.
Nice job, but before starting dismounting the drive, putting out the disk first, or?
Yeah, probably a lot I could have done better in that video.
Nice work, but I’m wondering why nobody solders the 5V and 12V to the bottom of the board when they do this mod?
My thought process when I was working on it was that I would route the new wires up through where the old ones routed. But yeah, I like your idea better. I just didn’t think of it :)
On the one reference link, they did just that!
Wouldn’t it be better off removing the mech from the chassis to do the banging, drilling, handling, etc? … you can hurt the head connector wires or causing misalignment…..Also, much easier doing the wire crimping and soldering before placing everything in place in the chassis….IMHO. Thanks for sharing, nice video! Liked and subscribed!
Yes, I believe you are correct. Many lessons learned since I did that :)
Hi I'm Italian. I saw your video. I have a 1541 with power problems. I would like to do the same job as you. What components did you remove from the board? Can you make a list? Thank you
Hi Cardi, sure, no problem. The board in this video was PCB 251830 Rev A, Assy #250442. If you've got a different board, this won't apply to you. The parts I removed from the power supply circuit were:
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
C6
C16
C17
CR1
CR2
CR3
VR1
VR2
Good luck with your repair!
Dave
@@commodorehistory Great dave, my 1541 card is the same one you used. Thanks for your reply. I only have one like to give you.
Any technical reasons why you recommend not to swap ACN and ACL? I know for a fact it doesn't matter I've done it myself hundreds of times but just wanted to see if you had a reason that I overlooked.
Heck no. I probably read somewhere that it mattered. I have no idea what I’m talking about.