My clutch lever would basically come all the way out on my 48 and not even start moving, did the clutch cable adjustment and now she grabs nice and strong :)))) the lever had like 2 freakin inches of play ! Thanks a ton 🙏🏻
Rachelle Degrace it’s pretty simple Once u find the clutch line. What I did was just loosened it to know which way basically would tighten or loosen and then I basically just tightened it up to where the clutch lever felt nice and tight. Now it grabs where I want after a couple test rides. What part are you stuck on ?
@@1state152 I don't feal safe to do it myself, but I explained that to a "supposed mechanic" he just did not understand a single word that was coming out of my mouth so I will have to try it myself i guess 🤔
Rachelle Degrace lol ya I was the same way I don’t usually like messing with stuff like that but once I started messing with it I was like oh ok it’s pretty straight forward. You would be able to tell by squeezing your handle if it’s to hard or to soft which will then lead u back to make adjustments. It’s all trial and error and pretty hard to mess it up, I’d say give it a shot! I was the same way and now I’m glad I attempted it :)
Used these pointed to adjust the clutch cable, I'd been having some 'lift' related issues, I was able to make the needed adjustments after about 15 minutes and several times around my block. Thanks 3 Beard !!
Hey lem...... thank you for another awesome video! I'm having a little trouble with the Barnett clutch cable? its a 7/16 and 3/8s size, but I keep calapsing the cable, after adjusting the clutch basket? what am doing wrong-lease help!
Hi, great vid. Ive recently carried out this adjustment. The clutch now 'bites' with the lever almost fully released and gives me very little clutch/throttle flexibility for slow speed maneuvering. Have I done something wrong? The bike is a 2011 Fat Bob with 15000 miles. Thanks.
Did you ever figure it out? That's exactly what has happened to mine and I'm running out of finger length lol!! Off to the garage to try and shorten that engagement point....arrghh!!!
What if you run out of threads when done to try and get clutch back to proper tightening to get correct gap ? Cable is only about 1.5 years old, clutch is maybe six months old Barnett. My Harley is a 2010 Limited. Did a S&S 110 big bore kit on her about 6 months ago.
Do you have a video or anything about adjusting a hydraulic clutch? Just got my first motorcycle and the friction zone seems to be the entire squeeze. Thanks!
You can't adjust a hydraulic clutch like a cable clutch. It is what it is, so you might consider getting an adjustable clutch lever if you want to change where the lever sits. That's the only adjustment to make. -DrewZilla
would creeping in gear and hard shift be to tight on the primary pushrod or to loose? for example, if backed out 3/4 of a turn and now its creeping... should 1 turn be tried or less like 1/2 turn out?
It sounds like it's too tight and the clutch is not disengaging fully with the clutch pulled. Try another half turn out and see if it does the trick. -TeamZilla AJ
RevZilla just to update you guys. the problem I was having wasnt with the adjustment. it was with the clutch itself. i had swapped in the Barnett extra disc kevlar kit. their instructions are wrong for 06 up harleys. you have to remove the spring seat and damper! i spent yesterday afternoon on the phone with barnett and apparently I got an "old kit" that didnt have the update so when I followed the instructions. it was wrong!
So should the engagement point be set close to the grip or far out? Just got a new clutchlever and its all the way out almost before full releasing the clutch completely. Old clutch was just few inches out, but wasnt a sportlever so im not sure anymore. Thanks!
It's not really necessary for loosening, but they can be really tight with all the heat cycling. Some of the experienced Harley techs here recommend using an impact driver to loosen every bolt before fully removing each bolt. -DrewZilla
The clutch (push) rod controls the ability to spread the clutch plates apart (engaging and disengaging the clutch). The clutch lever is attached to it through a pulley system on most V-twins. -DrewZilla
RevZilla ,,,, sorry but I still need more information,,,. ??? My clutch leaver engages too soon for my taste,,,. So do I need to set the set screw at a quarter-turn or maybe at 3/4 of a turn,,. ???
Yes, you lube it when or before the cable starts to stick. I think Lemmy uses whatever he has around, perhaps even old motor oil. However, you can use cable lube if you want to be all proper. -DrewZilla *www.revzilla.com/product/pj1-cable-lube *www.revzilla.com/product/motion-pro-cable-lube
Hey Lemmy I have a 99 Fatboy. Ive worked on vehicles for years but am new to motorcycle mechanics. You mention Harley Big Toy, your process in this video will this be the same for my 99 Fatboy?
Lemmy....great video. I normally let a friend work on my bike, '07 H-D Ultra Classic but, after watching this, decided to give the clutch adjustment a try. was doing great till I got the derby cover off and attempted to remove the jam nut off the adjuster. Mine didn't go quite as well as yours......I tried the 'key' in the adjuster and removing the jam nut with 11/16 wrench...all I got in return was the jam nut wouldn't budge, and I felt like the internals of the clutch were just rotating. I then tried a socket wrench....same result....internals turned but, the jam nut wasn't moving. I'm not a mechanic per se and I didn't want to risk internal damage. Any suggestions on how to get around the 'frozen' jam nut?
If the issue is loosening the jam nut, try putting the box end of the 11/16" on the jam nut and an allen/hex bit socket attached to a socket wrench. The box end of the wrench should give you more purchase on the jam nut. It might take some force to loosen the jam nut. If you aren't comfortably trying this, though, ask your friend if you can watch him do it. -DrewZilla
I’ve also had this issue(I know old post, but it could still help someone else) . To loosen, you can just use a socket and give it a good “pop” with the palm of your hand to loosen it. Steady pressure just turns the clutch, but a quick impact with your hand should break it loose. Don’t use this method for tightening (obviously).
Lemmy,what if your clutch starts to grab right off the grip and you want it to start grabbing farther away from the grip,do you rotate the Allen key adjuster in the clutch pack farther out(as in a whole turn vs 1/2 turn out) or less than a turn?
If you want your clutch to grab farther away, you need more slack in the clutch cable. You don't need to alter the clutch pack. Stick to this video's instructions for correctly setting the clutch pack. Then use the adjusters on the clutch cable housing to set your slack and therefore where the clutch engages in the lever throw. -DrewZilla
Any chance you could make a video on adjusting Harleys Diamondback steel braided clutch line. There is no jam nut there once I raise the chrome slide guard. Appreciate regardless! 👊🤙
Does this address/fix. the tension of the lever pull? not play, but the amount of force/weight needed to pull the lever fully in? My tiger 800 takes a lot of pull. Fatiguing on long rides. I recently took a 2014 Honda CTX700 for a test ride and that thing was so smooth and required very little lever pull/weight. If the tiger was a 10 or 15 pound pull, the honda was 5 pounds or less of a pull.
+Michael Bennett No, this doesn't change the physical lever pull. However, with a little more play, your fingers are closer to the handlebar before you actually feel the resistance of the clutch, and that can reduce fatigue. -DrewZilla
I'd like to get a much sportier clutch lever pull out of my 16 fxdb... currently the clutch requires me to pull the lever alllll the way in. I'd like to only have an inch or so of lever pull as measured from the end of the lever. Pipe dream, or is this possible with an aftermarket clutch?
You can go through this process and adjust your clutch cable such that there's no slack in the lever pull. That will move the engagement point as far out in the lever throw as is possible. If you then wanted to have the lever sit a bit closer to the grip, you could install an adjustable clutch lever. -DrewZilla
You mentioned this as routine maintenance, is this something that should be done regularly or is this only if you are having issues. My real question is what would prompt you to do this, you ran the push rod until it was finger snug then gave a half turn out does that naturally tighten over time? The video was an amazing tutorial I think I just missed the reason for it.
i installed a new clutch cable on my sport bike thinking the old cable had stretched and it seems as if i can't get proper cable tension adjusting the cable at both ends. is it time for a new clutch kit? I haven't noticed any slipping but i do seem to have a lower top speed in 1st gear..
What position do you keep the clutch lever at during the clutch pack adjustment? Some push it to the grip, and others say all the way out. I know that the position effects the orientation of the balls and ramp.
It doesn't matter. As Lemmy shows at 3:00, you adjust the cable so that there's maximum play. With maximum play, the clutch lever won't put any tension on the clutch, regardless of lever position. -DrewZilla
Great video Lemmy. Just changed my clutch disks and steels. Major slippage!!!! I've adjusted the clutch cable 3 times and while I've eliminated the slippage, she doesn't want to fall into neutral with the motor running. I have to shut her down in order to find neutral. I've gone as far back as 1 full turn with my allen key when adjusting the clutch. What gives?
Hmm, that's kind of a tricky thing to diagnose over the internet. It could be cable adjustment, plate adjustment, or even clutch plate installation. Therefore, we'd recommend seeking out your local service department or qualified mechanic. -DrewZilla
I have a 1981 Honda CX500 with a longitudinally mounted V-twin (like a motoguzzi). other than my clutch cover and clutch being right behind the front tire facing foward, do you thing this is the same principle for adjusting or would my bike be a completely different thing. Thanks, I love your videos you all post!
JW Cohen Adjusting the clutch on the CX will be a similar process, though of course the tools will be metric. Consult a factory service manual for detailed instructions. -DrewZilla
Right now my friction zone on my clutch handle is almost all the way out ie fully let go. How do I adjust it so the friction zone is more towards the middle of the release?
Unfortunately, no, this does not make the clutch lever pull any easier. If you find the reach to the clutch lever to be too far, you can get the clutch lever closer to the hand grip by installing an adjustable lever. It doesn't change the weight of the pull though. It just shortens the pull. -DrewZilla *www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/kuryakyn-boss-blades-brake-and-adjustable-clutch-lever-for-harley-sportster-2004-2013
I had to have my clutch adjusted a couple of times recently, Now it is going out of adjustment again. Do you think I need a new clutch pack, or could it be the spring plate or pressure plate. The clutch does not slip.
Performance plates could help, but it may be unnecessary if the adjustment is off. I recommend you take it to the service department or inspect the clutch plates for wear or warping. -DrewZilla
I recently put 14" bars onto my softail. The cables are new and stretching, I've been using the adjuster it is almost all the way out. Will this process make my cable adjustment on the adjuster less?
+fairladyz32TT Not all bikes are the same, so with sportbikes, you'll need to consult a service manual for your bike to see the proper procedure. -DrewZilla
@revzilla I just installed some elite mototech levers on my practically new 14’ street bob at 4500 miles. I did all the same steps multiple times, but there’s suppose to be a dime size amount of space between the perch and the clutch cable. My clutch won’t work right unless it’s totally tight with no slack. If I leave the dime size amount of slack in the line, it’s either pulling me in 1st with the clutch in and i can’t get into neutral or shift up. Tighten the line fully tight with no slack, doesn’t do it. Maybe the elite mototech levers don’t require the slack?? Please help!
We find that Harley guys tend to favor the DIY approach which is why this video is targeted toward the HD Big Twins. We've yet to make a sport bike clutch adjustment video, but I'll pass the suggestion along! In the mean time I am sure there are bike-specific guides all over TH-cam if you search around. -TeamZilla Chris
Having trouble with my clutch. Is it the cable adjustment or the actual clutch assembly. It goes into 1st gear, starts slipping in 2nd gear, and does not engage at all in 3rd gear. Would that be an easy cable adjustment or actually adjusting inside the housing unit as shown. Or will I need to replace the clutch plates? Thanks.
Just picked up a softtail springer 1990 .. I can't find neutral while the engine is running , but when engine is off no problem finding neutral . Am I looking at a cable problem or something more intense ?
+danny abbatiello Could be any number of things. Could be fine, could be fluid, cable, or a bad clutch. If you have time and want to get your hands dirty, it'll take a lot of investigating. Or, consult your local mechanic. For what it's worth, Lemmy wrote a four-part article about something similar, so you might want to read that! -DrewZilla *www.revzilla.com/common-tread/saving-the-softail-part-1
I got 2013 vrod muscle. I let my friend borrow it for a day. He tried doing burnout and now clutch is working. I can shift in gears just fine but bike won’t engage. In 1st gear when I get clutch go bike moves like 1-2 mph and in other gears it will just stay as it in neutral. Do I need new clutch plates or should I try to do adjustment like shown in this video.
Hard to diagnose without seeing the bike in person, so I recommend you have a qualified mechanic diagnose the issue if you aren't able to do so yourself. -DrewZilla
Just got a new FZ 07 and it shifts with a heavy thunk through the gears with the exception of 1st to 2nd which seems to always be smooth. Cable seems adjusted properly, could clutch pack be the problem? I know it's under warranty but dealer is 100 miles away. Any suggestions other than hauling it back?
Make sure you’re paying attention to the manual specs when tightening the derby cover when it says IN-LBS, not FT-LBS. HD primary covers are not cheap. Ask me how I know.
My clutch was slipping on cold starts and would be ok when it was ridden for 15 mins tried this cold and it was not slipping anymore thanks could you explain why its fixed now?
I have a 2014 V rod muscle.Love it. My other ride is a 1991 CB750 Nighthawk. Unlike her fuel injected sister, my Honda needs her carbs cleaned out. I have done it once before about 10 years ago. I have seen some just clean out the primary and secondary and others replace them. Can you do a video on cleaning and syncing them? So many bikes have a similar set up just like the Nighthawk. I know everyone likes the new bikes but older ones still rock.
I bought a second hand Suzuki SV650s 2003 with 29 k on the clock. I rode it a few months and did my first oil change on it. I used the correct spec motorcycle oil for the SV and the next day I had a grabbing clutch issue suddenly appear. In first the bike creeps forward and at full lever engagement the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I adjusted the clutch cable which solved the issue. Or so I thought. A day later after I got home I went to ride out again in the evening and I'm back to where I was, only worse. Adjusting cable tension and clutch actuator rod have little to no effect. Are we looking at some debris that's come loose in the clutch basket due to the oil change, or is it likely something else?
Great video and tutorial Lemmy! I have a 2008 Street Bob and have just had 14" Reaper Handlebars fitted. Previously it was a Drag bar. I took it for a ride this morning and the clutch was slipping in mostly the higher gears. At the higher gears and revs it sort of slides into the gear and then settles down. I am 100% sure it is due to the cutch adjustment being out. My question is: Can I get away with only adjusting cable and not open the derby cover for on the clutch adjustment. Reason being I am concerned that the gasket may have a gasket sealer from previous time and then I have to clean the junk of the gasket. 2nd question: Do you recommend putting on gasket sealer on top of the gasket in the derby cover? Thanks
+Philip Fourie There's no need for gasket sealer unless the derby cover is warped. The gasket is not expensive though. You can adjust the slack in the cable without adjusting the clutch pack, but it will only adjust the cable itself. It is not a clutch adjustment. -DrewZilla
I installed some shorty levers on my clutch and now my clutch is kind of wishy-washy I don't know if I should go taking the cover off the clutch if I have to re gasket it. None of the other videos I've seen on the Kawasaki z650 have shown anything involving taking the clutch cover off. The service manuals like 80 bucks on eBay it looks like I need to make a purchase
Whenever I disengage the clutch on my ‘16 Breakout, and go into 1st gear, the bike wants to creep forward with no throttle. It’s very hard to find neutral; and it takes one helluva an effort to go into 2nd gear. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Not sure what this adjustment does. Are we trying to tighten the clutch up because it loosened over time? Y clutch seems too tight. I think I am interested in loosening it. Same process but opposite spin?
This adjustment makes sure that the clutch plates are able to fully slip with each other when the clutch lever is pulled. It seems like what you're describing is related to the clutch lever free play, i.e. the clutch isn't engaging until the lever is almost completely let out. If this is the case, see the part of the video where Lemmy loosens the adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. You aren't loosening it completely, just a little bit until you have the correct amount of free play in the lever. -DrewZilla
Is having the play important? Some school of thought says that leaving play keep the clutch cable strained and will snap. Also keeps the clutch little disengaged which causes clutch wear. Please let me know. Thanks.
Now he says this is for Harley big twins but would it be about the same for other bikes? Specifically it's a friend's 91 XV400 I need to adjust the clutch on. I would imagine the process is more or less the same.
The idea is the same, but the process is slightly different. You should be able to follow the clutch cable back to the engine case and remove the access cover. From there, loosen the lock nut and adjust accordingly. -TeamZilla AJ
My clutch cable does not have a boot over it I can’t find the adjuster. I have a 2019 softail low rider. Any help you could give me would be much appreciated. Thank you
RevZilla; great video! I have a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan vn1500 that I recently changed the clutch plates on, steel and friction. Now the clutch lever won't budge! It won't pull in at all. Any ideas?
I have a 2013 Heritage and I'm putting 16in apes on it. The clutch actually goes to the opposite side of the bike and looks nothing like that. How do you adjust that?
my clutch dose not always ingage from take off have to pull clutch back in let it back out, dose it need adjusted? added 10in bars not long ago didn't have that problem till after the install
Just got a triumph street triple but everytime I turn right it pulls the clutch lever abit any idears please thanks for all the hard work . Ps it's just wen I'm pulling of right
Lemmy is love. Lemmy is life.
Lemon
Yeeet
This guy is awesome. He not only knows his stuff, but he has the ability to speak clearly, quickly and concisely. Keep up the good work guys!
WOW! The clarity and delivery of this video should be the standard. Amazing. Thank you a million times my friend!!!
My clutch lever would basically come all the way out on my 48 and not even start moving, did the clutch cable adjustment and now she grabs nice and strong :)))) the lever had like 2 freakin inches of play ! Thanks a ton 🙏🏻
I have the same issue, can't find nobody to fix that
Rachelle Degrace it’s pretty simple
Once u find the clutch line. What I did was just loosened it to know which way basically would tighten or loosen and then I basically just tightened it up to where the clutch lever felt nice and tight. Now it grabs where I want after a couple test rides. What part are you stuck on ?
@@1state152 I don't feal safe to do it myself, but I explained that to a "supposed mechanic" he just did not understand a single word that was coming out of my mouth so I will have to try it myself i guess 🤔
Rachelle Degrace lol ya I was the same way I don’t usually like messing with stuff like that but once I started messing with it I was like oh ok it’s pretty straight forward. You would be able to tell by squeezing your handle if it’s to hard or to soft which will then lead u back to make adjustments. It’s all trial and error and pretty hard to mess it up, I’d say give it a shot! I was the same way and now I’m glad I attempted it :)
You're the man Lem! This is the best video I've seen on clutch adjustment.
These vids always make me want to rush home and hug my bike.
Just used this video along with my maintenance manual to adjust the clutch in my 2018 Streetbob for the first time. Thanks Revzilla!
Great video,,
What are the springs for on the racing clutch hub kit
Used these pointed to adjust the clutch cable, I'd been having some 'lift' related issues, I was able to make the needed adjustments after about 15 minutes and several times around my block. Thanks 3 Beard !!
No I'm just watching this because I am bored and I love maintenance vids
i adjusted the clutch as you did it was on a stand . when i started it up and put it in gear with the clutch lever in the back wheel wood still turn
Hey lem...... thank you for another awesome video!
I'm having a little trouble with the Barnett clutch cable? its a 7/16 and 3/8s size, but I keep calapsing the cable, after adjusting the clutch basket? what am doing wrong-lease help!
Hi, great vid. Ive recently carried out this adjustment. The clutch now 'bites' with the lever almost fully released and gives me very little clutch/throttle flexibility for slow speed maneuvering. Have I done something wrong? The bike is a 2011 Fat Bob with 15000 miles. Thanks.
Did you ever figure it out? That's exactly what has happened to mine and I'm running out of finger length lol!! Off to the garage to try and shorten that engagement point....arrghh!!!
What if you run out of threads when done to try and get clutch back to proper tightening to get correct gap ? Cable is only about 1.5 years old, clutch is maybe six months old Barnett. My Harley is a 2010 Limited. Did a S&S 110 big bore kit on her about 6 months ago.
Hi great video. Does this procedure applies for the street models? Thanks!!
Do you have a video or anything about adjusting a hydraulic clutch? Just got my first motorcycle and the friction zone seems to be the entire squeeze. Thanks!
You can't adjust a hydraulic clutch like a cable clutch. It is what it is, so you might consider getting an adjustable clutch lever if you want to change where the lever sits. That's the only adjustment to make. -DrewZilla
Thank you big time! You're demonstration with just the alan key and wrench made that look far more less complicated than I what I was thinking!
would creeping in gear and hard shift be to tight on the primary pushrod or to loose? for example, if backed out 3/4 of a turn and now its creeping... should 1 turn be tried or less like 1/2 turn out?
It sounds like it's too tight and the clutch is not disengaging fully with the clutch pulled. Try another half turn out and see if it does the trick. -TeamZilla AJ
RevZilla just to update you guys. the problem I was having wasnt with the adjustment. it was with the clutch itself. i had swapped in the Barnett extra disc kevlar kit. their instructions are wrong for 06 up harleys. you have to remove the spring seat and damper! i spent yesterday afternoon on the phone with barnett and apparently I got an "old kit" that didnt have the update so when I followed the instructions. it was wrong!
Thanks for the update- we have not heard of that issue, but thanks for passing it along. Glad you got it sorted, though.
-TeamZilla AJ
Lemmy, excellent. Very nicely explained. Please mention the star pattern of bolting on the derby cover, You actually did that, likely instinctively.
So should the engagement point be set close to the grip or far out? Just got a new clutchlever and its all the way out almost before full releasing the clutch completely. Old clutch was just few inches out, but wasnt a sportlever so im not sure anymore. Thanks!
Set it wherever you want. That's one reason you have the barrel adjuster on the clutch cable. -DrewZilla
Good video, Lem. Any need for us to follow a star pattern when loosening the derby cover as well? Thx.
It's not really necessary for loosening, but they can be really tight with all the heat cycling. Some of the experienced Harley techs here recommend using an impact driver to loosen every bolt before fully removing each bolt. -DrewZilla
RevZilla ok great stuff... many thx.
Great video. I'm curious how often do people adjust their clutch? I'm up to 5k kms and haven't touched mine yet.
Curious why you switched derby gaskets, even more curious why you switch types.
How do i adjust my clutch. I race my bike hard. How much should i turn out the allen wrench 1/2 3/4. Or what. Thanks so much great video lemmy
1/2 is fine. Just keep an eye on it if you're running your bike hard. -DrewZilla
what does the stud in the middel of the cluch do chage how hard youre cluch is or stuff like that i didnt get that out of the video
The clutch (push) rod controls the ability to spread the clutch plates apart (engaging and disengaging the clutch). The clutch lever is attached to it through a pulley system on most V-twins. -DrewZilla
RevZilla alrith thankyou for awnsering apriciate it
RevZilla
RevZilla ,,,, sorry but I still need more information,,,. ??? My clutch leaver engages too soon for my taste,,,. So do I need to set the set screw at a quarter-turn or maybe at 3/4 of a turn,,. ???
That Harley has the prettiest color i've ever Seen on a motorcycle
Question do you oil the cable at all and if so what do you suggest I use?
Yes, you lube it when or before the cable starts to stick. I think Lemmy uses whatever he has around, perhaps even old motor oil. However, you can use cable lube if you want to be all proper. -DrewZilla
*www.revzilla.com/product/pj1-cable-lube
*www.revzilla.com/product/motion-pro-cable-lube
Hey Lemmy I have a 99 Fatboy. Ive worked on vehicles for years but am new to motorcycle mechanics. You mention Harley Big Toy, your process in this video will this be the same for my 99 Fatboy?
The clutch itself is different than the Twin Cam's clutch in this video, but the adjustment process is the same for your EVO motor. -DrewZilla
Lemmy....great video. I normally let a friend work on my bike, '07 H-D Ultra Classic but, after watching this, decided to give the clutch adjustment a try. was doing great till I got the derby cover off and attempted to remove the jam nut off the adjuster. Mine didn't go quite as well as yours......I tried the 'key' in the adjuster and removing the jam nut with 11/16 wrench...all I got in return was the jam nut wouldn't budge, and I felt like the internals of the clutch were just rotating. I then tried a socket wrench....same result....internals turned but, the jam nut wasn't moving. I'm not a mechanic per se and I didn't want to risk internal damage. Any suggestions on how to get around the 'frozen' jam nut?
If the issue is loosening the jam nut, try putting the box end of the 11/16" on the jam nut and an allen/hex bit socket attached to a socket wrench. The box end of the wrench should give you more purchase on the jam nut. It might take some force to loosen the jam nut. If you aren't comfortably trying this, though, ask your friend if you can watch him do it. -DrewZilla
I’ve also had this issue(I know old post, but it could still help someone else) .
To loosen, you can just use a socket and give it a good “pop” with the palm of your hand to loosen it. Steady pressure just turns the clutch, but a quick impact with your hand should break it loose.
Don’t use this method for tightening (obviously).
Just had bars changed on my M8 softail and shop used traditional clutch cable. Need to learn how to do it this way now.
You make it all look easy Lem! Great video. Thanks!
Lemmy,what if your clutch starts to grab right off the grip and you want it to start grabbing farther away from the grip,do you rotate the Allen key adjuster in the clutch pack farther out(as in a whole turn vs 1/2 turn out) or less than a turn?
If you want your clutch to grab farther away, you need more slack in the clutch cable. You don't need to alter the clutch pack. Stick to this video's instructions for correctly setting the clutch pack. Then use the adjusters on the clutch cable housing to set your slack and therefore where the clutch engages in the lever throw. -DrewZilla
RevZilla thanks for reply,will do!
Any chance you could make a video on adjusting Harleys Diamondback steel braided clutch line. There is no jam nut there once I raise the chrome slide guard. Appreciate regardless! 👊🤙
Does this address/fix. the tension of the lever pull? not play, but the amount of force/weight needed to pull the lever fully in? My tiger 800 takes a lot of pull. Fatiguing on long rides. I recently took a 2014 Honda CTX700 for a test ride and that thing was so smooth and required very little lever pull/weight. If the tiger was a 10 or 15 pound pull, the honda was 5 pounds or less of a pull.
+Michael Bennett No, this doesn't change the physical lever pull. However, with a little more play, your fingers are closer to the handlebar before you actually feel the resistance of the clutch, and that can reduce fatigue. -DrewZilla
I'd like to get a much sportier clutch lever pull out of my 16 fxdb... currently the clutch requires me to pull the lever alllll the way in. I'd like to only have an inch or so of lever pull as measured from the end of the lever. Pipe dream, or is this possible with an aftermarket clutch?
You can go through this process and adjust your clutch cable such that there's no slack in the lever pull. That will move the engagement point as far out in the lever throw as is possible. If you then wanted to have the lever sit a bit closer to the grip, you could install an adjustable clutch lever. -DrewZilla
You mentioned this as routine maintenance, is this something that should be done regularly or is this only if you are having issues. My real question is what would prompt you to do this, you ran the push rod until it was finger snug then gave a half turn out does that naturally tighten over time? The video was an amazing tutorial I think I just missed the reason for it.
To be safe, it's good to check at every oil change, but it probably won't need to actually be adjusted that often. -DrewZilla
i installed a new clutch cable on my sport bike thinking the old cable had stretched and it seems as if i can't get proper cable tension adjusting the cable at both ends. is it time for a new clutch kit? I haven't noticed any slipping but i do seem to have a lower top speed in 1st gear..
So, one would put the bike in neutral prior to the adjustments being made? Thanx!
It doesn't matter. -DrewZilla
3:20 Someone grazed a hot exhaust.
What position do you keep the clutch lever at during the clutch pack adjustment? Some push it to the grip, and others say all the way out. I know that the position effects the orientation of the balls and ramp.
It doesn't matter. As Lemmy shows at 3:00, you adjust the cable so that there's maximum play. With maximum play, the clutch lever won't put any tension on the clutch, regardless of lever position. -DrewZilla
RevZilla but wouldn’t it effect the position of the balls and ramp and pushrod position?
No, with the clutch cable adjusted to full slack, the lever has no effect on the clutch anymore. -DrewZilla
Great video.. my question is, does it matter what gear the bike is in when doing the adjustment? First or neutral or doesn’t matter at all?
Thanks
Nope, it doesn't matter. -DrewZilla
Great video Lemmy. Just changed my clutch disks and steels. Major slippage!!!! I've adjusted the clutch cable 3 times and while I've eliminated the slippage, she doesn't want to fall into neutral with the motor running. I have to shut her down in order to find neutral. I've gone as far back as 1 full turn with my allen key when adjusting the clutch. What gives?
Hmm, that's kind of a tricky thing to diagnose over the internet. It could be cable adjustment, plate adjustment, or even clutch plate installation. Therefore, we'd recommend seeking out your local service department or qualified mechanic. -DrewZilla
I have a 1981 Honda CX500 with a longitudinally mounted V-twin (like a motoguzzi). other than my clutch cover and clutch being right behind the front tire facing foward, do you thing this is the same principle for adjusting or would my bike be a completely different thing. Thanks, I love your videos you all post!
JW Cohen Adjusting the clutch on the CX will be a similar process, though of course the tools will be metric. Consult a factory service manual for detailed instructions. -DrewZilla
Just got myself a 1980 CX500D and was wondering the same thing.
That's an excellent demonstration..Sir...! Many thanks for your marvelous engineering over the technicalities..
Right now my friction zone on my clutch handle is almost all the way out ie fully let go. How do I adjust it so the friction zone is more towards the middle of the release?
HINT: you can use a nickle to measure the 1/16"
My clutch lever is very hard to pull! Will this help make that easier to pull back? It is a Nightster if that helps.
Unfortunately, no, this does not make the clutch lever pull any easier. If you find the reach to the clutch lever to be too far, you can get the clutch lever closer to the hand grip by installing an adjustable lever. It doesn't change the weight of the pull though. It just shortens the pull. -DrewZilla
*www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/kuryakyn-boss-blades-brake-and-adjustable-clutch-lever-for-harley-sportster-2004-2013
I had to have my clutch adjusted a couple of times recently, Now it is going out of adjustment again. Do you think I need a new clutch pack, or could it be the spring plate or pressure plate. The clutch does not slip.
Performance plates could help, but it may be unnecessary if the adjustment is off. I recommend you take it to the service department or inspect the clutch plates for wear or warping. -DrewZilla
what is Lemmy's background? he Is phenomenal at this. Love all these videos.
I recently put 14" bars onto my softail. The cables are new and stretching, I've been using the adjuster it is almost all the way out. Will this process make my cable adjustment on the adjuster less?
Yes, you should go through this whole process. -DrewZilla
Does this solve the issue of the engine being connected to the trans while the clutch is engaged?
Here working on a victory. Thanks for the video! Awsome job too
hi, does this apply to sportbikes as well? (adjusting the clutch itself, not the cable)
+fairladyz32TT Not all bikes are the same, so with sportbikes, you'll need to consult a service manual for your bike to see the proper procedure. -DrewZilla
What about hydraulic clutches? How do I disengage it so I can change the friction zone?
@revzilla I just installed some elite mototech levers on my practically new 14’ street bob at 4500 miles. I did all the same steps multiple times, but there’s suppose to be a dime size amount of space between the perch and the clutch cable. My clutch won’t work right unless it’s totally tight with no slack. If I leave the dime size amount of slack in the line, it’s either pulling me in 1st with the clutch in and i can’t get into neutral or shift up. Tighten the line fully tight with no slack, doesn’t do it. Maybe the elite mototech levers don’t require the slack?? Please help!
Excellent video, very well explained. Very nice tips.
Great video in process of replacing clutch cable on my 2001 Softail Deuce !
do you have a vid doing this to a sports bike? I just seen a vid on a sports bike on how to do this and he didn't take any thing apart
We find that Harley guys tend to favor the DIY approach which is why this video is targeted toward the HD Big Twins. We've yet to make a sport bike clutch adjustment video, but I'll pass the suggestion along! In the mean time I am sure there are bike-specific guides all over TH-cam if you search around. -TeamZilla Chris
Having trouble with my clutch. Is it the cable adjustment or the actual clutch assembly. It goes into 1st gear, starts slipping in 2nd gear, and does not engage at all in 3rd gear. Would that be an easy cable adjustment or actually adjusting inside the housing unit as shown. Or will I need to replace the clutch plates? Thanks.
I'd start with cable adjustment. If that doesn't fix the issue, then it's likely transmission error. -DrewZilla
Just picked up a softtail springer 1990 .. I can't find neutral while the engine is running , but when engine is off no problem finding neutral . Am I looking at a cable problem or something more intense ?
+danny abbatiello Could be any number of things. Could be fine, could be fluid, cable, or a bad clutch. If you have time and want to get your hands dirty, it'll take a lot of investigating. Or, consult your local mechanic. For what it's worth, Lemmy wrote a four-part article about something similar, so you might want to read that! -DrewZilla
*www.revzilla.com/common-tread/saving-the-softail-part-1
I got 2013 vrod muscle. I let my friend borrow it for a day. He tried doing burnout and now clutch is working. I can shift in gears just fine but bike won’t engage. In 1st gear when I get clutch go bike moves like 1-2 mph and in other gears it will just stay as it in neutral. Do I need new clutch plates or should I try to do adjustment like shown in this video.
Hard to diagnose without seeing the bike in person, so I recommend you have a qualified mechanic diagnose the issue if you aren't able to do so yourself. -DrewZilla
I added 2 inch risers on my 2016 Harley Low Rider S.. since the clutch cable is 2 inches higher do I need to readjust the clutch free play? Thanks
No, you should not need to adjust your cable. -DrewZilla
When doing the adjustment what should be the gear position
Why did he turn the clutch adjuster counter clockwise? If your clutch is slipping, which way would you turn it?
is a 2012 sportster nightster similar to this clutch setup?
You should have talked on correct eyeing primary fluid level before mounting cover! Thanks
Just got a new FZ 07 and it shifts with a heavy thunk through the gears with the exception of 1st to 2nd which seems to always be smooth. Cable seems adjusted properly, could clutch pack be the problem? I know it's under warranty but dealer is 100 miles away. Any suggestions other than hauling it back?
Make sure you’re paying attention to the manual specs when tightening the derby cover when it says IN-LBS, not FT-LBS. HD primary covers are not cheap. Ask me how I know.
My clutch was slipping on cold starts and would be ok when it was ridden for 15 mins tried this cold and it was not slipping anymore thanks could you explain why its fixed now?
I have a 2014 V rod muscle.Love it. My other ride is a 1991 CB750 Nighthawk. Unlike her fuel injected sister, my Honda needs her carbs cleaned out. I have done it once before about 10 years ago. I have seen some just clean out the primary and secondary and others replace them. Can you do a video on cleaning and syncing them? So many bikes have a similar set up just like the Nighthawk. I know everyone likes the new bikes but older ones still rock.
We haven't made a video yet, but Lemmy _did_ write a very good how-to article. -DrewZilla
*www.revzilla.com/common-tread/spring-carb-cleaning-101
I haave a 2019 HD Sport Glide. Very hard to find neutral. Could the clutch needing adjustment be the problem?
I bought a second hand Suzuki SV650s 2003 with 29 k on the clock. I rode it a few months and did my first oil change on it. I used the correct spec motorcycle oil for the SV and the next day I had a grabbing clutch issue suddenly appear. In first the bike creeps forward and at full lever engagement the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I adjusted the clutch cable which solved the issue. Or so I thought. A day later after I got home I went to ride out again in the evening and I'm back to where I was, only worse. Adjusting cable tension and clutch actuator rod have little to no effect. Are we looking at some debris that's come loose in the clutch basket due to the oil change, or is it likely something else?
Great video and tutorial Lemmy! I have a 2008 Street Bob and have just had 14" Reaper Handlebars fitted. Previously it was a Drag bar. I took it for a ride this morning and the clutch was slipping in mostly the higher gears. At the higher gears and revs it sort of slides into the gear and then settles down. I am 100% sure it is due to the cutch adjustment being out. My question is: Can I get away with only adjusting cable and not open the derby cover for on the clutch adjustment. Reason being I am concerned that the gasket may have a gasket sealer from previous time and then I have to clean the junk of the gasket. 2nd question: Do you recommend putting on gasket sealer on top of the gasket in the derby cover? Thanks
+Philip Fourie There's no need for gasket sealer unless the derby cover is warped. The gasket is not expensive though. You can adjust the slack in the cable without adjusting the clutch pack, but it will only adjust the cable itself. It is not a clutch adjustment. -DrewZilla
I installed some shorty levers on my clutch and now my clutch is kind of wishy-washy I don't know if I should go taking the cover off the clutch if I have to re gasket it. None of the other videos I've seen on the Kawasaki z650 have shown anything involving taking the clutch cover off. The service manuals like 80 bucks on eBay it looks like I need to make a purchase
Whenever I disengage the clutch on my ‘16 Breakout, and go into 1st gear, the bike wants to creep forward with no throttle. It’s very hard to find neutral; and it takes one helluva an effort to go into 2nd gear. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Does this also applies to Harley Davidson street 750?
Not sure what this adjustment does. Are we trying to tighten the clutch up because it loosened over time? Y clutch seems too tight. I think I am interested in loosening it. Same process but opposite spin?
This adjustment makes sure that the clutch plates are able to fully slip with each other when the clutch lever is pulled. It seems like what you're describing is related to the clutch lever free play, i.e. the clutch isn't engaging until the lever is almost completely let out. If this is the case, see the part of the video where Lemmy loosens the adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. You aren't loosening it completely, just a little bit until you have the correct amount of free play in the lever. -DrewZilla
Thank you brother. Appreciate it.
Lenny-Best Teacher Ever 🤘
Is this the same fornan ER6F? I have no adjustment left and am thinking I may need a new clutch soon :/
This video only applies to Harley-Davidsons. For your bike, you'll need to consult a factory service manual. -DrewZilla
What do you do when the Jam nut is stuck af , I cannot move mine at all
Is having the play important? Some school of thought says that leaving play keep the clutch cable strained and will snap. Also keeps the clutch little disengaged which causes clutch wear. Please let me know. Thanks.
It's actually the opposite. Having play means there's no strain on the cable and the clutch is fully engaged. -DrewZilla
RevZilla Many thanks for clearing it out, I could not find any blog related to this. Thanks again :)
Now he says this is for Harley big twins but would it be about the same for other bikes? Specifically it's a friend's 91 XV400 I need to adjust the clutch on. I would imagine the process is more or less the same.
The idea is the same, but the process is slightly different. You should be able to follow the clutch cable back to the engine case and remove the access cover. From there, loosen the lock nut and adjust accordingly. -TeamZilla AJ
My 125cc motorbike is having serious trouble changing gears, gonna try this. Not a Harley but I got the concept.
Great presentation sir! Keep up the great content.
Would like to see a walk through video on adjusting the throttle cables for a 2001 Yamaha V star 650 classic
I installed 14 in bars and installed burly clutch cables I do the steps but the lever still loose I was debating to screw in more on the plate .
My clutch cable does not have a boot over it I can’t find the adjuster. I have a 2019 softail low rider. Any help you could give me would be much appreciated. Thank you
RevZilla; great video! I have a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan vn1500 that I recently changed the clutch plates on, steel and friction. Now the clutch lever won't budge! It won't pull in at all. Any ideas?
By the way, its a hydraulic clutch
can you please make a video on how to change a throttle cable?
We'll definitely consider it. -DrewZilla
My clutch slips sometimes "rarely" wonder if a heavy duty clutch spring will help it from slipping?
If you've adjusted your clutch and still get slipping, then you likely either need new clutch plates or heavier springs. -DrewZilla
Instructions unclear my Harley now identifies as an autobot 😲
I have a 2013 Heritage and I'm putting 16in apes on it. The clutch actually goes to the opposite side of the bike and looks nothing like that. How do you adjust that?
Do clutch lines shrink or expand over time?
Can u use both
I for got to ask does the bike be in gear or out of gear.
Typically it should be in neutral. -DrewZilla
my clutch dose not always ingage from take off have to pull clutch back in let it back out, dose it need adjusted? added 10in bars not long ago didn't have that problem till after the install
Yes, you need to adjust it. -DrewZilla
Lemster, great vid. Any need for lube on that gasket? Thx.
No, you don't need to lube the primary cover gasket. -DrewZilla
RevZilla thx!
Hey guys watching this just before getting my hands on my '17 iron... Is the process more or less the same for a sporty?
Yes, it's generally the same, though we recommend you get a factory service manual as well for better reference. -DrewZilla
Just got a triumph street triple but everytime I turn right it pulls the clutch lever abit any idears please thanks for all the hard work . Ps it's just wen I'm pulling of right
Is it used? Re route the cable.
Yes
Get A Harley
Yes it's used I think its just had a new clutch and it wen I'm pulling of right i feel the clutch lever go tighter thanks for replays
After adjusting ultima open primary clutch I still have no clutch.clutch lever feels good.everything seems like I shod have clutch.any answers?