I did a vacuum test to compare with you, check it out. Ideally the gauges would be the same or at least the same maker but still fun to compare. Back in the day when mechanic worked on many Z's there was a wealth of samples to compare, not so much so comparison videos from many Z's would be helpful.
I just wanted to say thanks for all the time you have put into these videos. It's a niche audience and you are never going to have millions of views for this build but those of us who watch these really appreciate the content so thanks.
This all started because I just wanted to document the disassembly to help with reassembly. But its been nice to have people providing inputs and feedback with the build, and its enough reason for me to continue. Thanks for the kind words :)
To locate vacuum leaks I prefer the vacuum hose as a stethoscope method, one end in the ear, wave the other end around the vacuum fittings, or any were there could be a leak. On an engine with a complicated vacuum system it can help to pinpoint a leak. This method will also help to find small exhaust leaks. Good video, simple and to the point, Well done as usual.
Next with the engine warm, do a cranking vacuum test, same as regular but disable the ignition (I used a remote starter with key off, or just pull the lead from the coil to the distributer, hook a spark plug to it so the spark has somewhere to go, and crank) and observe the vacuum, it should be steady after a few seconds I got about 7" of hg for comparison. Don't crank too long, lots of stress on the starter.
just for the heck of it, get an accurate resistance reading on the sending unit with the engine off, I will do the same, would be interesting to see what the starting resistance is and if they vary much. I presume there is some sort of voltage compensation for the gauge to deal with varying battery voltage, but have never really checked into it. I have read that the meter readings are not that accurate, which prob explains the lack of divisions on the gauge (false sense of accuracy).
I can still remember when Z’s were going for a grand cash, maybe $3K if super nice. I just got my next Z project (not running) for less than $10K shipped across the country Ct to Wa. Yep She’s a #305 Pacific Blue Lt Metallic. I’m super excited to get her back on the road.
Yeap, they're Konig 16" rims. I got a pretty good deal on them, I think they were about 80 dollars each. The tires on them are super cheap, maybe 60 bucks each after rebates.
I did a vacuum test to compare with you, check it out. Ideally the gauges would be the same or at least the same maker but still fun to compare. Back in the day when mechanic worked on many Z's there was a wealth of samples to compare, not so much so comparison videos from many Z's would be helpful.
Will do!
BTW, mine reacted the same when cold, about 14 then worked its way up in the same way yours did.
If I can get mine to run as well as yours, Id be a happy man
Link to the video, in case anyone else is wondering th-cam.com/video/OjaThNPClNI/w-d-xo.html
a tip : you can watch movies on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching loads of movies recently.
I just wanted to say thanks for all the time you have put into these videos. It's a niche audience and you are never going to have millions of views for this build but those of us who watch these really appreciate the content so thanks.
This all started because I just wanted to document the disassembly to help with reassembly. But its been nice to have people providing inputs and feedback with the build, and its enough reason for me to continue. Thanks for the kind words :)
To locate vacuum leaks I prefer the vacuum hose as a stethoscope method, one end in the ear, wave the other end around the vacuum fittings, or any were there could be a leak. On an engine with a complicated vacuum system it can help to pinpoint a leak. This method will also help to find small exhaust leaks. Good video, simple and to the point, Well done as usual.
Keep on making these!!! Excellence
Thanks man, will do!
Next with the engine warm, do a cranking vacuum test, same as regular but disable the ignition (I used a remote starter with key off, or just pull the lead from the coil to the distributer, hook a spark plug to it so the spark has somewhere to go, and crank) and observe the vacuum, it should be steady after a few seconds I got about 7" of hg for comparison. Don't crank too long, lots of stress on the starter.
Good morning have a ? i have 76 280z how do you if the AFM is working correctly.
Oil pressure should be interesting, nice to see how is compares to the on onboard gauge.
I hope I'm not in for a nasty surprise...
just for the heck of it, get an accurate resistance reading on the sending unit with the engine off, I will do the same, would be interesting to see what the starting resistance is and if they vary much. I presume there is some sort of voltage compensation for the gauge to deal with varying battery voltage, but have never really checked into it. I have read that the meter readings are not that accurate, which prob explains the lack of divisions on the gauge (false sense of accuracy).
I'm enjoying your video as always ^^
Keep them coming 👌
How much did the Z cost you? They are quite expensive where I live...
Embarrassingly too much man. I fell in love with it when I saw it :(
I can still remember when Z’s were going for a grand cash, maybe $3K if super nice. I just got my next Z project (not running) for less than $10K shipped across the country Ct to Wa. Yep She’s a #305 Pacific Blue Lt Metallic. I’m super excited to get her back on the road.
Love the video! Really helps me learn with my '78. Can I ask what wheels you have? They look like Konigs, but i'm not sure.
Yeap, they're Konig 16" rims. I got a pretty good deal on them, I think they were about 80 dollars each. The tires on them are super cheap, maybe 60 bucks each after rebates.