Really awesome video I appreciate it, been needing to adjust the valves on my 280z for a while and have been putting it off get some airleaks fixed and valves adjusted and I hope it a whole new car
Hey, thanks for the great video. I appreciate how you address those little details... so I passed this on to my son who's doing a four in a 521 truck. Nice job. Thumbs up!
I have watched this video like maybe 40 times. Im getting ready to do this myself on my l28 and this is just an awesome vid to go by. Hope you are feeling better by the way. Thanks for your work. The datsun community loves this.
***** Thank you again for your motivating comments all throughout my recovery. When you make the adjustments to the rockers, when its all done you will also notice the engine running a lot better as long as all the measurements with the feeler gages are just right on a cold engine and the measurements are exactly the same when you tighten the retaining nut. It is very challenging the first time because when you get the adjusting nut just right and the measurement is perfect, you tighten the retaining nut and the measurement changes. It will be frustrating the first time but after you develop the technique of holding the 14 and 17 mm wrenches together and holding the 14 firm while tightening the 17 while keeping the feeler gage in place to check clearances before tightening and after tightening retaining nut and being able to keep that measurement after tightening. That is the most difficult part of that process. Once that is mastered, you can do a whole set of 12 rockers in 20 minutes or less.... Let me know how it goes. Do give yourself lots of time for the first go at this. I remember my first time doing that and I cussed up a storm until it all clicked...
Budget Boosting thank you for the advice, my friend and I will be pulling the valve cover this weekend and adjusting them together doing the same stuff you did. I am your biggest fan btw lol I am fanboying im not going to lie. I wish I could film for you because I am into filming and someone else help film would be awesome for this channel. you have lots of awesome stuff to offer. anyways. I will be looking forward to your new videos and your speedy recovery.
***** Thank you, If you are ever in our area, please do contact us and we can all meet so you can see what we do. Right now it is two of us that make up budget boosting. Someday if we get sponsored by one of the car magazines or automotive business, we could move up in the world and have several people on our team. We take it one day at a time here.
Thanks for the video! I've never adjusted the valves on a car before. Just did it on my 73 240z. Runs a bit better! Keep up the videos! I'd love to see videos on replacing distributor cap/rotor and setting the points of a 240z. Then one on timing it ;)
Heh... I wasn't scared by anything on my old Datsun Rustbucket. I have learned a lot of auto mechanics since then... but I never felt as little fear as I felt taking that 510 apart -- and putting it back together!
Especially the first time you do it, it is always safer to go a little loose on the rocker adjustments until you have done it at least 20 times and are confident in the Rocker Arm Valve clearance adjustments.
alex garcia Thank you for watching, it takes quite a bit of practice to get a feel at this technique, but well worth it when you are done and saved yourself money and keeping it in good tune.
Curious the difference with that one, and the 1980. The FSM for the 1980 has you move the cam to two different positions; cylinder front most cam lobe straight up, and cam lobe straight down. You adjust half of the valves in each position. It also says to perform the adjustment on a hot engine, though.
I used to set the valve lash on my slant 6 with the engine running and a full face shield in case of spraying oil…. You wanted to feel the consistency as if you were pushing it through clay… if it pinched it was to tight if it slid right through it was to loose…. I might try it on this lol just crack the nut and set it while running… we shall see
Good info usually I'll close the gap a thou or two on a cold motor from the hot lash specs depending on the motor my 77 like .002 less lash and my 82 likes .001 both l28s so there must be some minute metallurgical difference between the 2 valve trains or maybe my 82 runs a bit cooler than my 77 not really sure but I'll adjust my lash every other oil change it seems to keep the motors in check and speaking of my 82 is due for an adjustment haha
+heymisterderp I always do the adjustment cold due to how fast engines cool off and every degree effects the contraction of the adjustments. I always do .010/ .012 on a cold engine and it has always been successful. I prefer not to do the .008/.010 due to it being to tight of a clearance whether hot or cold from my experience. When I learned this adjustment close to 30 years ago from my friends in Japan, they always said for me to do .010/ .012 on a cold engine.
Most of the Z guys on websites swear by doing it hot but there are others who disagree. You and I are two of those. Even though I did mine cold, I had the luxury of taking my time and making sure I was highly accurate in my settings. My first time doing it, the temperature changes from a hot engine would have stressed me out. The change in temperature would create an inconsistency unless it's done super fast. If I had already done it 100x and could almost do it with my eyes closed, sure. I wrote out my E's and I's out too and kept the plug firing order in mind so I knew when I'd be back to #1. My whole data sheet was filled out by then and I was 100% sure I didn't miss a valve. But I still disagree with you on the lashes. If you've got an old Z around adjusted to 010/012 cold, try 007/009 cold instead and I think you'll be surprised. If you want more HP out of a n/a Datsun for dirt cheap. NGK ZFR6F-11 are what all L-engines want for Christmas. You might not want to waste hours trusting me on the valve lash but $15 for spark plugs, come on brah. ;) Atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips for some independent discussion on these plugs.
I've built and worked on all the L- series engines, 4's and 6's. GO through the procedure then, double check the clearances. It never hurts to be sure everything is clearanced properly. I never had a problem with my valvetrains.
So if I wanted to waste time... I make the first lobe towards the front of the car pointing straight up check and adjust it. Go to second lobe, point it straight up check and adjust and so on? Am I checking every one when it is straight up? Is tdc necessary if it’s straight up?
hey great video by the way bunch of help. and I was wondering if you can point me in the right direction, I have some mikuni triple carbs and can't find anywhere for info on tuning them. any help would be appreciated thanks
Yes that is a method a lot of people do, I prefer my method because each lobe is in the exact same position when I adjust them. Your method above you can adjust them however the cam lobes are in different positions and measurements are slightly different when cam lobes are in different angles.
Check for ignition (spark), and fuel, if engine has both of them, check for compression, if low or not consistent, adjust the rockers and should clear up. If not, could be a number of problems if any above solutions do not work.
is the layout of the exhaust/intake starting from cylinder 1 as you shown on the cardboard, applied to 1979 280ZX as well? Same procedure? I have not done this before but it does not look too difficult. Also, are all adjustment done when the lobe is up and passed?
Yes done when lobe is up or slightly passed, I prefer each lobe to be in an exact up position to get same adjustments for every cylinder but not necessary. All Nissan L series engines have this same procedure. L20, L24, L26, L28.
hey budget boost so I just did a valve adj on my l28 yesterday and it seems that you can move the adj nut after the locking nut has been tighten down all the way on cylinder 2 intake and cylinder 3 exhaust valve I was wondering if this is a sight of a bad valve ?
depends how much force you have to exert to move the adjusting nut. Usually if you can move the adjusting nut, time to tighten the retaining nut tighter. I use a 17 mm combination wrench. If you look at some of the factory manuals, they use a long torque wrench which will tighten the retaining nut tighter.
72galaxie500car I like the .010 and .012 myself on cold engine. .008 and .010 are good for a warmed up engine however, by the time half the rockers are done on a warm engine, the other half has already cooled substantially so the measurements will be slightly off. I always start with a cold engine. I have known some that like .008 and .010, measurements, can be done but very little difference.
Might Be Helpful, Also to Let Everyone Know ,Maybe How Often This Should Be Done.My Mech ,when I had My 76 &78 280 Use to Say Dealer Specs Say Every 17,500- 22,000 miles ,if I Remember Correctly ? Been A long Time Since I've Had One.Mechs Always Stress that the Solid Lifters Need More Attn.,Where as Hydraulic Valves Are Self Adjusting or Rarely Need Adj.??
I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. I don’t think people realize how much work is involved in making these videos. Thank you
Major thanks for these videos related to the Z, they have been a major help in my process to restore the L28 on my 78' 280z.
How’s your restore going? I added a 78 to my stable 👍🏽
Really awesome video I appreciate it, been needing to adjust the valves on my 280z for a while and have been putting it off get some airleaks fixed and valves adjusted and I hope it a whole new car
Hey, thanks for the great video. I appreciate how you address those little details... so I passed this on to my son who's doing a four in a 521 truck. Nice job. Thumbs up!
Time to get this l16 running like a top. Thanks for the explanation. Now to find a wrench that'll fit lol
I have watched this video like maybe 40 times. Im getting ready to do this myself on my l28 and this is just an awesome vid to go by. Hope you are feeling better by the way. Thanks for your work. The datsun community loves this.
***** Thank you again for your motivating comments all throughout my recovery. When you make the adjustments to the rockers, when its all done you will also notice the engine running a lot better as long as all the measurements with the feeler gages are just right on a cold engine and the measurements are exactly the same when you tighten the retaining nut. It is very challenging the first time because when you get the adjusting nut just right and the measurement is perfect, you tighten the retaining nut and the measurement changes. It will be frustrating the first time but after you develop the technique of holding the 14 and 17 mm wrenches together and holding the 14 firm while tightening the 17 while keeping the feeler gage in place to check clearances before tightening and after tightening retaining nut and being able to keep that measurement after tightening. That is the most difficult part of that process. Once that is mastered, you can do a whole set of 12 rockers in 20 minutes or less.... Let me know how it goes. Do give yourself lots of time for the first go at this. I remember my first time doing that and I cussed up a storm until it all clicked...
Budget Boosting thank you for the advice, my friend and I will be pulling the valve cover this weekend and adjusting them together doing the same stuff you did.
I am your biggest fan btw lol I am fanboying im not going to lie. I wish I could film for you because I am into filming and someone else help film would be awesome for this channel. you have lots of awesome stuff to offer. anyways. I will be looking forward to your new videos and your speedy recovery.
***** Thank you, If you are ever in our area, please do contact us and we can all meet so you can see what we do. Right now it is two of us that make up budget boosting. Someday if we get sponsored by one of the car magazines or automotive business, we could move up in the world and have several people on our team. We take it one day at a time here.
Thanks for the video! I've never adjusted the valves on a car before. Just did it on my 73 240z. Runs a bit better! Keep up the videos! I'd love to see videos on replacing distributor cap/rotor and setting the points of a 240z. Then one on timing it ;)
Heh... I wasn't scared by anything on my old Datsun Rustbucket. I have learned a lot of auto mechanics since then... but I never felt as little fear as I felt taking that 510 apart -- and putting it back together!
Especially the first time you do it, it is always safer to go a little loose on the rocker adjustments until you have done it at least 20 times and are confident in the Rocker Arm Valve clearance adjustments.
Excelente Mis respetos señores Mecanicos
Just what I needed! Thank you for the video.
alex garcia Thank you for watching, it takes quite a bit of practice to get a feel at this technique, but well worth it when you are done and saved yourself money and keeping it in good tune.
My datsun L20b runs bad after a rebuild; I haven't done this yet. I hope this will help. Thanks so much for the tips!
Did it help
@@nemesisnta9333 This helped a lot! Thanks so much for the information!
This is one of those kinds of videos that you can "feel" lol. Are those feeler gauge values also applicable to the L28 Turbo?
Excellent video, very useful. Thank you!
Curious the difference with that one, and the 1980. The FSM for the 1980 has you move the cam to two different positions; cylinder front most cam lobe straight up, and cam lobe straight down. You adjust half of the valves in each position. It also says to perform the adjustment on a hot engine, though.
I used to set the valve lash on my slant 6 with the engine running and a full face shield in case of spraying oil…. You wanted to feel the consistency as if you were pushing it through clay… if it pinched it was to tight if it slid right through it was to loose…. I might try it on this lol just crack the nut and set it while running… we shall see
Thanks!
Good info usually I'll close the gap a thou or two on a cold motor from the hot lash specs depending on the motor my 77 like .002 less lash and my 82 likes .001 both l28s so there must be some minute metallurgical difference between the 2 valve trains or maybe my 82 runs a bit cooler than my 77 not really sure but I'll adjust my lash every other oil change it seems to keep the motors in check and speaking of my 82 is due for an adjustment haha
Are the feeler gauge specs the same for aftermarket camshafts?
It depends on the cam I would ask the cam manufacturer what to set them at but it's doubtful you'll hurt anything with factory specs
You've got it backwards between hot/cold on the valve lash Matt.
.010/.012 are hot engine specs. .008/.010 are cold
+heymisterderp I always do the adjustment cold due to how fast engines cool off and every degree effects the contraction of the adjustments. I always do .010/ .012 on a cold engine and it has always been successful. I prefer not to do the .008/.010 due to it being to tight of a clearance whether hot or cold from my experience. When I learned this adjustment close to 30 years ago from my friends in Japan, they always said for me to do .010/ .012 on a cold engine.
Most of the Z guys on websites swear by doing it hot but there are others who disagree. You and I are two of those. Even though I did mine cold, I had the luxury of taking my time and making sure I was highly accurate in my settings. My first time doing it, the temperature changes from a hot engine would have stressed me out. The change in temperature would create an inconsistency unless it's done super fast. If I had already done it 100x and could almost do it with my eyes closed, sure.
I wrote out my E's and I's out too and kept the plug firing order in mind so I knew when I'd be back to #1. My whole data sheet was filled out by then and I was 100% sure I didn't miss a valve.
But I still disagree with you on the lashes. If you've got an old Z around adjusted to 010/012 cold, try 007/009 cold instead and I think you'll be surprised.
If you want more HP out of a n/a Datsun for dirt cheap. NGK ZFR6F-11 are what all L-engines want for Christmas. You might not want to waste hours trusting me on the valve lash but $15 for spark plugs, come on brah. ;)
Atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips for some independent discussion on these plugs.
I've built and worked on all the L- series engines, 4's and 6's. GO through the procedure then, double check the clearances. It never hurts to be sure everything is clearanced properly. I never had a problem with my valvetrains.
So if I wanted to waste time... I make the first lobe towards the front of the car pointing straight up check and adjust it. Go to second lobe, point it straight up check and adjust and so on? Am I checking every one when it is straight up? Is tdc necessary if it’s straight up?
Thank you for this on man
hey great video by the way bunch of help. and I was wondering if you can point me in the right direction, I have some mikuni triple carbs and can't find anywhere for info on tuning them. any help would be appreciated thanks
Thanks so much for sharing!!!!
Turn #1 to TDC. Adjust Intake (2,3,8) and Exhaust (1,6,9). Turn #4 to TDC. Adjust Intake (5,10,11) and Exhaust (4,7,12)
Yes that is a method a lot of people do, I prefer my method because each lobe is in the exact same position when I adjust them. Your method above you can adjust them however the cam lobes are in different positions and measurements are slightly different when cam lobes are in different angles.
I there a pattern to follow on the 4 cylinder engines?
I got an l28 with e88. can't get it to fire, engine only turns. no explosion. only hear the starter. any ideas what is wrong?
Check for ignition (spark), and fuel, if engine has both of them, check for compression, if low or not consistent, adjust the rockers and should clear up. If not, could be a number of problems if any above solutions do not work.
is the layout of the exhaust/intake starting from cylinder 1 as you shown on the cardboard, applied to 1979 280ZX as well? Same procedure? I have not done this before but it does not look too difficult. Also, are all adjustment done when the lobe is up and passed?
Yes done when lobe is up or slightly passed, I prefer each lobe to be in an exact up position to get same adjustments for every cylinder but not necessary. All Nissan L series engines have this same procedure. L20, L24, L26, L28.
hey budget boost so I just did a valve adj on my l28 yesterday and it seems that you can move the adj nut after the locking nut has been tighten down all the way on cylinder 2 intake and cylinder 3 exhaust valve I was wondering if this is a sight of a bad valve ?
depends how much force you have to exert to move the adjusting nut. Usually if you can move the adjusting nut, time to tighten the retaining nut tighter. I use a 17 mm combination wrench. If you look at some of the factory manuals, they use a long torque wrench which will tighten the retaining nut tighter.
I have a 1976 280z and was wondering if this method would work for me or should I try .008 intake and .010 for exhaust?
72galaxie500car I like the .010 and .012 myself on cold engine. .008 and .010 are good for a warmed up engine however, by the time half the rockers are done on a warm engine, the other half has already cooled substantially so the measurements will be slightly off. I always start with a cold engine. I have known some that like .008 and .010, measurements, can be done but very little difference.
Might Be Helpful, Also to Let Everyone Know ,Maybe How Often This Should Be Done.My Mech ,when I had My 76 &78 280 Use to Say Dealer Specs Say Every 17,500- 22,000 miles ,if I Remember Correctly ? Been A long Time Since I've Had One.Mechs Always Stress that the Solid Lifters Need More Attn.,Where as Hydraulic Valves Are Self Adjusting or Rarely Need Adj.??
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