Hello Jason. I hope you are doing well but notice has been awhile since any new videos. I appreciate them all! But thought would give an important update on panels. Simply put, avoid panels where the manufacturer has glued pre primed canvas surfaces onto a panel, and avoid doing it yourself. The reason why this is dangerous to a painting is many pre primed canvases have holes, some not seen by human eye, and the glue used to adhere the canvas to panels can seep thru to the painting surface and causes paint to not adhere over time. Can take years to see the damage. So this is to be avoided. Many of my paintings, some sold, were ruined by this. The paint fragments, and given more time will likely flake off.
Thanks so much for that valuable information! I'm so sorry to hear you've had issues with your work this way, that really stinks. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience with everyone.
You have some great videos, Jason and I appreciate that you answer your viewer's questions. There's always something new to learn or a painting 'trick' to try out. Thanks!
Thanx for another great video, Jason. You have the best info and the best presentation style over all the other art video makers. The section at the end , describing the high quality plywood, was very useful. Again, thank you, and keep up the good work.
I recently started oil painting and was always had problems after watching your video’s i now understand more then I learned in school thank you very much
This video really helped me out. I have a friend that made me birch panels and I was wondering how to prep them. I’ll try the gesso coats and oil prep! Thank you. It’s hard to try new stuff...because of the learning curve and the thought that’s it’s not a second nature thing. This video helped my confidence tons. I’m ready to try the birch. Wish me luck! Thank you Jason.
A very nice overview of different surfaces! I've yet to try much of linen but I really enjoy Masterpiece canvas-the smooth acrylic is lovely-and Arches Oil Paper. The sound and feel of the brush on the paper is so unique. Definitely my favorite. And to add on to Nathan's comment that Trekell and New Traditions Art Panels also sell lead primed linen panels (the latter be the supplier for Wind River, or vice versa).
Thanks for the great comment! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the info too. It's good to know that some companies do make the lead primed panels/canvas. :)
Sir you deserve many many more subscribers than you already have. Your lessons are so easily understandable and nicely explained. I always learn so much from your videos. Thank you so much sir. And keep sharing more.😊
Good options. I have done them all. Finally I landed on buying rolls of raw linen, attaching to stretchers, applying sizing which tightens them super drum tight, and then couple coats of oil ground. Its a lot of work but the best surface, especially if going to larger paintings. The alkyd oil ground can be painted on sooner. Titanium or Lead, should cure for a long time, otherwise will suck the oil out of your paint. So planning way in advance is necessary. Alternatively, I also have rolls of pre primed linen and stretch them on stretchers, but the fit is never as good as starting from raw linen.
If I don't comment, I usually at least give a thumb up if i stayed over a minute, but I don't understand why there are thumb down (I hope it's just people mis tapped), really great video, really really appreciated!
Yep, solid panel with lead oil ground is the best and is my goal for my master pieces. I'm starting on Arches oil paper and will do the studies on this first. I've seen a conservationist restore oil on paper that was mounted on hardboard panel, so it's completely restorable too if that ever came up.
Hi Jason . Have to say that I'm still loving your videos and picking up many tips along the way. I have always made my own cotton duck box frame canvas from scratch and generally applied two to three coats of acrylic primer prior to painting . As things progress and I am starting to sell my work for more money and also use more professional quality paints I am getting more concerned about longevity. Oil priming is out of the question as I often make the under painting in acrylic which I work over with oil glazes and embellishments . Do you think acrylic primer is the best choice in this situation.. All the best simon
Thanks so much for the nice comment! :) Yes, acrylic gesso primer will work fine for your style of painting. There really isn't any other choice if you do an acrylic underpainting. Any good quality gesso will be OK. Someday you might want to try oil priming just to see if you like it.
Hi Jason thanks for all the videos. I did Learn about various priming like rsg or pva and then oil priming, but I am not partial to a smooth surface, and it seems I read on gamblin or a legit site that said just gessoing is fine too. I have been reading a lot of different sources, and seems it comes down to feel, and based on the descriptions and my preferences i am thinking it might not be a process I need to put in the practice.I’ve been painting for about two years. I might try it just to try it eventually but I never sand and usually like tooth and not slick. Thanks again and for the community
Thanks for watching! Yes, not every surface will appeal to every artist. I would recommend trying an oil primed canvas as it still has the canvas texture but the oil priming makes it less absorbent. You can see what you think. :)
hello , i would like to say that you are my hero and i really love your videos , i wanted to ask about the time oil primer takes to get dry? thank you very much and plz keep doing this videos
Thanks so much for the nice comment!! Oil primer drying time depends on the pigment used. For traditional Linseed oil primers, if it is Titanium based it will take a couple of weeks to dry to the touch probably, then it needs to cure for a month or two before you paint on it. Lead Oil Primer in dries to the touch in a day or two, but still needs the curing time. Alkyd-Oil based Primers dry overnight and can be painted on in about a week. Hope that helps! :)
Hi Jason, thanks so much for these wonderful videos! I've been in an art slump lately trying to find my vision again, and I found your videos. In the last few days while traveling I've already sketched out five potential pieces! I think your explanations are helping me get back to the motivation I had to start painting in the first place. I also have a quick question. I've noticed the lead oil primer is about $10 more than the titanium oil primer (both are Williamsburg). Have you noticed a significant difference between the results you get between them in your final product? Thanks so much!
Hi David, what a wonderful comment!! Thanks! I'm so glad that my videos have helped you get back into your are routine. :) Well, the Lead primer dries much faster. The longer you let it cure the better surface it is to paint on. It's hard to describe, but yes it does seem to have a more pleasing working quality! Hope that helps.
Jason, Thank you for your time you dedicate to your videos. I find them both enjoyable as well as informative. I have a couple of questions about substrates, please. Please, Why use a linen canvas rather than a cotton? Why use an oil primer as opposed to an acrylic primer for a canvas? Why use an oil with lead to prime a canvas rather than simply an oil primer? With my appreciation. Susan
Thanks for the nice compliment on my videos! Linen is stronger than cotton canvas because the fibers are naturally longer, so ultimately it will stand the test of time better. Linen also has a more organic weave that most painters prefer. Cotton canvas texture can look mechanical. Oil base primers are less absorbent so your colors "sit up" on the canvas instead of soaking in (like acrylic does) so the finished painting looks brighter and fresher. Lead is the preferable oil primer since it remains flexible long term and is less likely to crack, but the titanium primer is OK too. :)
Jason, a couple of questions for you, all pertaining to the actual wood board towards the end: 1. What type of plywoods would be suitable for painting? Birch, Pine? Just curious about your experience with different types of wood. 2. When using a traditional wood panel, do you prime it with acrylic gesso or use sizing prior to putting on your oil primer? Thanks again for another wonderful video!
Thanks for watching Rob! I have been enjoying your channel too. In fact, your recent video inspired me to get a Sienna Supply box to go with my pochade set-up. :) As far as the wood panels go, I haven't used them all that often. I bought the pre-made one meant for painting from the art supply store, so if a person wanted to go with a plywood from somewhere like Home Depot, etc then I would say that birch would be good. I would avoid pine. You want something fairly hard and good quality. The the kind of plywood used for high-end wood crafting rather than construction. When I got the plain wood panel from Blick, I did put two coats of acrylic gesso on it first. Then the lead oil priming layer.
Walcott Fine Art Thank you so much for the advice, especially about the acrylic gesso primer. I may venture out soon and try to start a project on wood. Something about the raw and traditional nature of it appeals to me. And that’s awesome! You will really enjoy the Sienna supply box. It’s been so cold here in Arkansas lately that I haven’t been able to paint outside much, but hopefully the weather will give me a break soon. Have fun with your new supply box! By the way, you’ve got a painting on your website that I’m absolutely enamored with called “Dappled Stream.” Truly fantastic work!
Thanks for watching! Framing is a huge topic! For panels, your options are somewhat limited for quick. An inexpensive solution would be to buy a diploma/photo frame from Wal-Mart. Take out the glass and matt and just use the frame. This assumes you've painted on a standard size like 11 x 14 or 8 x 10. Hope that helps!
As a beginner, I have started (water mixable) oils on arches oil paper, one thing I don't like is it takes a good bit of medium to make application any way smooth. Would there be much smoother application on even the cheapest gesso'd canvas vs oil paper?
Thank you so much for this, clears up a lot of confusion. I have about 25 hardboards that my husband cut for me, and I Jessore them. And I am wondering should I buy the oil primer, and put on top for better experience, and if so, not sure from your video what Oil primer you meant- I saw Williamsburg ground lead? Should I put gray, yours seems to have pastel yellow, or leave it white? Thank you so much!!!
Yes, you can put the oil primer on top of the gesso. Willaimsbrug does make a Lead Oil Primer, but it is expensive, so be aware. You can also get one made with Titanium White or use the Gamblin Oil Primer. These panels in the video are white, it's just the lighting that makes them look yellow. I do usually tone my canvases with Raw Umber before painting on them. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever sprayed rustoleum paint which is I think oil based,on a panel to use as a painting surface? Also how big a size of panel do you use before you switch to stretched canvas because of the weight for framing etc? TX
Thanks for watching! I wouldn't recommend ever using paints or materials meant for household use for fine art purposes. Rustoleum isn't made to last more than 15-20 years probably. I typically paint smaller in my own work, so panel vs canvas is more of a preference, but I would say anything larger than 18 x 24 the panel starts to get too cumbersome.
A lot of artists use MDF, but I would tend to think it's not archival even though I haven't heard that directly. I would stick to the acid free or "archival" MDF panels from art suppliers. I wouldn't use the MDF from say Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. Priming both sides would help protect it, but not necesarily make it more archival. Thanks for watching!
Hi, Jason! Thank you so much for all of your videos-- I have been learning quite a lot from your demonstrations. I had a couple questions about surfaces and textures with oil paint. I am a mixed-media painter and I have been using acrylic paint and I am shifting to use oil paint only and I often paint on wood. From what I understand, painting on wood you must use PVA size to seal the wood from absorbing any of the linseed oil in the paint. Using gesso by itself is not sufficient (if I'm understanding correctly) because it is predominantly only adding tooth to the surface. Is that right? And if so, is it safe to use oil paint on a wood surface thoroughly coated only in size without gesso? And secondly, in my work I use a lot of paper, hardware nails and other found objects. Are there any specific precautions I would have to take in order to protect these materials from the oil in the paint as they become a part of the piece itself? Thank you very much for all of your help! Doug
Hi Doug, I'm sorry I just saw this comment today! You don't necessarily need to apply a PYA size to wood underneath the acrylic gesso. You can, to make things easier, but several coats of gesso will accomplish the same thing. You might want to try Micheal Harding's Non-Absorbent acrylic gesso to aid further in reducing the absorbency of the wood. The main purpose of the size originally in the old days was to create a barrier between the oil and the substrate. If linseed oil comes in direct contact with paper, wood, canvas etc, it will eventually rot it away and turn it to dust. Acrylic gesso does this without the need for a sizing. Anything that is made of cloth or wood fiber should be coated with a protectant. Metal objects like nails wouldn't need it. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Hi Jason, Thank you so much for your reply! That all makes sense. I have been using Gamblin oil primer on my pieces of wood, which as been working out great. As a sealant I've been using one part galkid and one part gamsol which is really nice (I reached out to Gamblin and they gave me those instructions-- very helpful!) Thank you again for all of your thorough reviews and tutorials. They are very comprehensive and well done! Best, Doug
I understand that these are basic options, and I am wondering why oil primed vs. rabbit skin glue gesso? Also, wondering why you don't seal the wood on both sides first? The oil will eventually rot the wood, won't it? I am asking because I am newish to oil painting but want to do the absolute longest lasting technique, and you seem to have the most knowledge on the subject but maybe skipped the sealing step. By the way, your videos are really awesome and I can't find a video of someone laying down rabbit skin glue gesso on plywood or sealing the wood first, maybe there is a reason? I am currently experimenting with shellac to seal the wood first, and then will do a thin varnish, and then start my painting.
Thanks for watching! Rabbit skin glue is the traditional size to seal canvas or wood. You are correct that you cannot allow oil paint or oil to come in contact with the raw canvas or wood or it will rot it away over time. I do not use rabbit skin glue. It's stinky and messy. If I neglected to mention in the video (and I apologize) I always start with a layer of acrylic gesso and then put my oil priming on top of that whether it's canvas or wood panel. I just use modern gesso in place of the rabbit skin glue which is fine to do and much easier!
I"m sorry but I have never painted on vellum. Assuming it's made from a standard paper material, you should be fine painting on it with acrylic though it may buckle from the moisture. Anything painted with oil need to be primed first with acylic gesso. Thanks for watching!
I plan on doing a family wall painting (oil wall painting) with my grands (6-13). I'm a beginner so what do you suggest, from what to paint on, to what paint to buy? I don't know how they going to decide to paint, from making a hand painting, to paint with brushes, or just writing their name; it's about 7 of them, so we doing it together as family time. I need help to know what all to use to accomplish this.
Thanks for watching! If you are going to be painting a big wall in your house just for fun, you might want to consider either going with acrylic/latex house paints from Home Depot etc, or buying some tubes of student grade acrylic colors. Oil paint might not be the right medium for that purpose. But, if you want to check out my video on oil paints types, you can watch that here: th-cam.com/video/_KisbDiPiXQ/w-d-xo.html If you dcide to use oils, be sure to prime the wall properly with primer first to prevent the oil from soaking into the wall. Ask the paint guys at the hardware store to help you find the right ones, as I'm not sure about that. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching! You can paint on masonite if you want to. They also make hardwood panels that you can get at art supply stores. The Speedball Gessoboards are a good brand.
Hi! Very informative as always. I have a question: is it safe to prime a masonite surface with underpainting white (oil), directly? As I understood, it wouldn't be safe, or would it be? Maybe I should prime it with gesso first and aply another layer with oil underpainting white. What do yo think? Thanks in advance!
Hi Nathan, thanks for another great comment! Yes, you must prime the masonite with acrylic gesso first before putting any kind of oil paint on it. Just like canvas and paper, masonite will eventually disintegrate if you put the oil paint directly onto it. In the case of canvas, it will literally turn to dust.
Thanks for watching Condee! :) The answer is no!! I realize now I should have mentioned this in the video. Don't ever use primers/paints intended for household use (like from Home Depot) for art. They are not designed to last for long periods of time. Latex paint is not the same as acrylic gesso. A good oil-based primer to try is Gamblin's. It is less expensive and dries quickly. You can paint on it within a week or so. Incidentally, Jackson Pollack used household wall paints to make his art. That was in the 1950s. Now only 60 years later, conservators are scrabbling to save his works which are already starting to degrade.
Thanks Jason.... Is linseed oil, purchased at the store, the same as from an art store? Some people use linseed oil for wet on wet. If so, it would be very cost effective.
I would be very cautious. It's possible that stores like Home Depot might sell high-grade linseed oil (for finishing furniture etc), but absolutely avoid anything like "Boiled linseed oil". It isn't meant for artists use. Hope that helps! Cold Pressed Linseed oil is the best.
Thank you so much for this! I noticed that your stretched canvases had a bunch of wood making up the frame but mine are really thin... Is that a problem?
Chances are you have an inexpensive/student grade canvas. Those thin stretchers can warp or sometimes cause "ghosting" which means they will show through on the front on the painting. They're good for practice, but I would eventually recommend upgrading to a better brand, especially if you want to sell your work. A great and economical alternative are the professional canvas panels like Centurion Deluxe. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason, thanks for this wonderful video. I have a request. Would it be possible for you to show us how to oil prime a board/canvas? Everyone knows about oil priming but not many knew that these commercial boards have been primed with titanium white, which makes it simpler as lead white is either very expensive or banned (in some countries). Then there is a big question of size. I think the viewers will be greatly benefited with this if you could show us the process that you follow. PS. I have no idea if art companies are using zinc oxide in their titanium white oil/acrylic primers. Generally, these days it is recommended not to use zinc in a painting. Does it cause any problems if the primers have zinc mixed into them?
Thanks for the watching and for the great comment! That is a good idea. I wil be sure to do a video on oil priming etc... Small amounts of Zinc are OK when mixed in with Titanium White. It is usually less than 15%. It's only the pure Zinc White you want to avoid.
Walcott Fine Art thanks very much Jason for taking the time to share your knowledge with everybody in such a clear and beautifully articulated manner! will surly wait for your video on oil priming.
Jason, I’m wondering about the possibility of painting on top grade birch plywood. Have you done this before? I would assume I could prime it with acrylic gesso, then prime it with oil primer, and seal the backside. Am I correct?
Thanks for watching and yes absolutely! High quality plywood can make an excellent surface to paint on and you would prepare it just as you said. :) The only drawback is it can get heavy at larger sizes.
I am of the opinion that you would need to seal both sides of the wood first with something like shellac or dare I say polyurethane (we don't know how long poly will hold up in 100 years or more as it was developed not too long ago), whereas shellac has been around for hundreds of years and holds up well as long as you don't spill alcohol. The wood needs to be isolated first to prevent rot. Also, isn't there a possibility that the acrylic gesso first layers would peel away from the oil over time and thus cause cracking or peeling off?
Thank you once again for a very interesting and informative video which came at perfect timing for me as I'm searching for a good alternative. I've done lots of painting on masonite (my learning basically) and found that they warp after some time. Also tried 1/4 inch birch wood panels and they warp also. I've been told that galeries do not accept panels (masonite, cardboards, etc). So I heard of Gator foam boards. Do you have any experience with that ? (accepted by galeries or not, painting surface quality, etc ?). I personally prefer painting on smooth surfaces, canvas drives me crazy because of all the bumps and light reflections, but that's just me. Also someone mentioned Stefan Baumann. Do you know, from one of his video, that he advocates priming with Restoleum in a can ? I was flabergasted. Not sure about that. But to each his own. Best wishes and thank you again, Dominique.
Thanks for watching! You posted a great comment...I have not heard that galleries in general do not accept works on panels. I will have to do more research on that. I wouldn't use Gatorboard as it is not archival. You could try the cradeled wood panels. It is designed not to warp. Until you mentioned, it I had forgotten about S. Baumann saying to use Rustoleum! Like you, I was very surpised at that. I wouldn't do it.
Montreal Artlive maybe you can try good quality half inch plywood. I made four paintings on half inch plywood as a trial. these were used as shelves. But they never warped in nine years even though they had heavy files on them for years.
Thanks Jason. I'm in the process of changing painting surfaces and craddled wooden panels is going to be my choice. I'm about to take the leap from student to pro, so I'm looking to present my work in the best possible manner.
Hi Kaustav, I have tried that in the past recycled all sorts of wood leftovers, but it's too heavy. OK for small sizes, but quite unmanageable in larger sizes. The same for wall hanging. Also if you have to ship your work, it's really expensive because of the weight. Thank you for your suggestion. As I replied to Jason, I think craddled wooden panels will be the way to go for me. Best.
Yeah. The weight is a big issue. The panes that I used are 14X9 (not big at all). But these are very heavy. Shipping is certainly gonna be very expensive.
Do you think Arches Oil paper could take a coating or two of oil painting primer?(not acrylic gesso, oil based primer) Im trying to avoid some of the extreme absorbancy qualities the paper naturally has!
No it still needs to be primed with a coat of acrylic gesso first. Linseed oil will rot paper and wood over time so there needs to be a barrier layer in between the raw wood/canvas and oil ground. Hope that helps :) Thanks for watching!
Hello, I am enjoying your videos! I find them very informative. One quick question, if you use an oil primed linen panel do you still want to oil prime it again before painting?
So if you can paint over gesso with oil primer, what is the issue with "sizing" ? Is sizing just a sealer for bare canvas? I have read that before applying oil primer that you have to first use rabbit skin glue, however if that is the case, why do they not recommend gesso if it does the same job before applying oil primer? I was taught after too many years of struggling with the dry dragging brush strokes over gesso, to use oil primed. Wish I had known this fifty years ago.
Thanks for the great comment! You are correct that sizing is just a sealer for the canvas. You would use either sizing or acrylic gesso...no need to use both. Years ago rabbit skin glue was used because that's all there was, and acrylics hadn't been invented yet. The only reason I can think of why you want to use the rabbit glue instead of gesso is that acrylic gesso creates a permanent bond with the canvas. That makes it harder for conservators to work with the painting if that need ever arises. I hear you! It was a long time before I had ever heard oil painters should paint on oil primed canvas. I don't know why they don't tell beginners this more often. It would save a lot of grief.
Thanks for watching! I can certainly do some videos on watercolor paper etc. :) It's not my main medium but I do dabble in it from time to time. In the meantime I would suggest you check out Steve Mitchell's channel. He has the best channel on watercolor I've seen: th-cam.com/users/mindofwatercolor
Do you see a big difference between a acrylic prime coton duck canvas with a layers of oil ground on top versus a oil primed linen canvas, i also feel that many time the pre made oil primed linen canvas, the ground is not so good.
I have not noticed any huge difference in those two applications, but I do find the ones I prime myself with the lead based oil primer to be a nicer surface to paint on. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! If it was made of masonite/hardboard, you could use it since artists use that routinely for panels. You'd still have to gesso it though. I wouldn't use anything plastic.
Hi Jason, my question may seem a little odd to a professional like you but I am just gonna ask it anyway. Does it always have to be a wood panel? If I am painting on a plein air sketching panel, isn't it better to paste my canvas on to a hard plastic examination board? I can make the plastic sheet a little rough by sanding the surface, cut to fit the size. They are cheap, lightweight but I don't think they are going to warp. Only thing to worry about is that if they are hard enough. Is this a good idea?
Great question! Actually no it does not have to be a wood panel. There are companies today making art boards from green and recycled materials. As far as the plastic goes, my concern would that the canvas would not adhere. There usually needs to be some absorbency of the surface for the glue to stick permanently. Glues made for plastic probably wouldn't last very long. Another alternative is Masonite, which you can get at the hardware store and cut up yourself.
Walcott Fine Art thanks very much Jason for your reply. I was thinking about that too. I will go with Masonite and seal it first and paste canvas on top of it.
That 's fine! What ever colors work for you, you can tone the canvas with. Just be sure to keep the paint thinned down with thinner so you are following the fat over lean rule.
So helpful videos.. plz I really need your advice.. I am doing oil paintings on canvas boards from camlin kokuyo brand..... Are canvas boards not good enough? I want to sell these paintings in near future at normal price no at high prices.. can u please suggest canvas boards vs streched canvas for oil.. as these are the only option available at my place.. eagerly waiting for your response thankyou ..
Thanks for watching! Depending on where you live, you might be able to find Masterpiece Pro brand canvases and boards. That's the best brand. If not, WInsor & Newton canvas panels are very good and they make stretched canvas too. WInsor & Newton is one of the most common brands so you should be able to find those. If you can't then Fredrix is a godo runner up. If you can order online from the USA, then I would recommend either the Masterpiece Pro as I said, or Centurion Deluxe from Jerrys' Artarama. You could also try ordering from Jackson's in the UK. They ship worldwide.
Hi Nathan, thanks for the info! I have a vague memory that I might have seen those, but forgot all about them. Will have to check them out. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason, I used to love painting on canvas panels, like the ones you showed in this video, but then this guy from youtube Stephen Baumman said that these panels are really bad for your paintings because they don't last as long as a stretched linen canvas (installed over a woden frame). He also says the panel becomes dust within 100 years, while the stretched canvas can last thousands of years. Do you know if this is true or if I can just return to panels again? :D Edit: The canvas panels I am talking about are the ones sold at walmart, made of cardboard, not wood.
Thanks for watching and for a great question! I am familiar with Stephen Baumann's videos... he has a lot of great info. He is right that the cheap canvas panels (like the Creative Mark I showed or Walmart's) are not long term archival. However the Ray-Mar panels with the linen and some other hand made brands like that can be. However, they are just as expensive as the canvases. Stretched canvas or real wood panels are the best, I just wanted people to know what options they had available. The cheap ones are good for practice when you're starting out.
Ah ok, I was a little excited thinking it was all as good. I guess I will stick to stretched canvases then, or maybe the wood ones, because what I like about the panels is they are thin and sturdy. Thanks for the help!
Hi!!! I always paint on canvas with acrylic gesso but I have bough canvas with alquidic gesso. What is the difference ? How can I paint in this alquidic canvas? I need liquid? Can a use my tradicional medium ( linseed oil and terpentine) please help!!!!!!. Excuse me , what do you think about liquin and how liquid is used? ,I don't understand fat over lean in liquin. Excuse my English!!! Espero que estés genial, un abrazo.
Thanks for watching. I think you might mean Alkyd primer? You can treat that the same way you would a traditional oil primer. Alkyds and oils are intermixable. Liquin is an alkyd based medium. If you are using only Liquin then fat over lean is less of an issue. Just be sure each layer has an equal or greater amount of oil/medium in it.
@@walcottfineart5088 alkid sorry jaja. My cuestión is what is the difference with acrylic primer ( gesso). I always use acrylic primer and i have bough alkid canvas. This canvas is fatter than acrylic canvas Can I paint without problems with my tradicional medium ? Or I must use more linseed oil in the first layer and more in the second etc. thanks very much. Excuse my english
@@joseluisrojasmontiel1468 Yes, you can use all your traditional oils and mediums with a alkyd primed canvas. You do not have to use more oil in the layer if you are using Liquin. Winsor & Newton's and Gamblin's "Oil Primers" are really alkyd primers.
Thanks for watching! Yes the acrylic gesso you have is much more common. Oil Priming is just that...an oil based primer for your surface. It comes in two basic forms...traditional and alkyd based. Winsor & Newton and Gamblin's Oil Primers (that's what it's called on the can) are the alkyd based ones. Williamsburg makes the traditional linseed oil primer in both Titanium and Lead. Remember to use the oil primer over acrylic gesso, or buy the pre-oil-primed canvas/panels. Don't apply the oil primer to the raw canvas!
You really should use primer rather than tubed white for the base layer. It's designed to perform that way. Gamblin makes an oil primer that is nice. It's just a primer that is oil/alkyd based rather than the acrylic gessos which are water based.
Hello Jason. I hope you are doing well but notice has been awhile since any new videos. I appreciate them all! But thought would give an important update on panels. Simply put, avoid panels where the manufacturer has glued pre primed canvas surfaces onto a panel, and avoid doing it yourself. The reason why this is dangerous to a painting is many pre primed canvases have holes, some not seen by human eye, and the glue used to adhere the canvas to panels can seep thru to the painting surface and causes paint to not adhere over time. Can take years to see the damage. So this is to be avoided. Many of my paintings, some sold, were ruined by this. The paint fragments, and given more time will likely flake off.
Thanks so much for that valuable information! I'm so sorry to hear you've had issues with your work this way, that really stinks. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience with everyone.
@@walcottfineart5088❤ Mr Walcott, I’m so relieved you’re alive!! Are you well?
You have some great videos, Jason and I appreciate that you answer your viewer's questions. There's always something new to learn or a painting 'trick' to try out. Thanks!
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Your paintings are gorgeous!!!! Makes me think of old master pieces
Thanks so much for that kind comment and for watching! :)
Thanx for another great video, Jason. You have the best info and the best presentation style over all the other art video makers. The section at the end , describing the high quality plywood, was very useful. Again, thank you, and keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed this.
Great video, exactly the info I needed. Love that you make it so simple and clear.
Thanks so much for watching! :)
I recently started oil painting and was always had problems after watching your video’s i now understand more then I learned in school thank you very much
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you Jason, as always, very informative
This video really helped me out. I have a friend that made me birch panels and I was wondering how to prep them. I’ll try the gesso coats and oil prep! Thank you.
It’s hard to try new stuff...because of the learning curve and the thought that’s it’s not a second nature thing. This video helped my confidence tons. I’m ready to try the birch. Wish me luck!
Thank you Jason.
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! Enjoy those birch panels! Sounds like they are really nice. :)
I love all your videos, very informative and interesting, thankyou very much for making these videos, I appreciate it.
I'm so glad you enjoyed my videos! Thanks for watching and for the nice comment :)
Thank you so much for this video! your videos are very informative for someone who has a passion for the more "classical" forms of expression!:)
I'm so glad you enjoyed this video. Thanks for watching!
Thx so much for this!! I’m a beginner and knowing I have more options than I thought is so helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
A very nice overview of different surfaces! I've yet to try much of linen but I really enjoy Masterpiece canvas-the smooth acrylic is lovely-and Arches Oil Paper. The sound and feel of the brush on the paper is so unique. Definitely my favorite. And to add on to Nathan's comment that Trekell and New Traditions Art Panels also sell lead primed linen panels (the latter be the supplier for Wind River, or vice versa).
Thanks for the great comment! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the info too. It's good to know that some companies do make the lead primed panels/canvas. :)
Sir you deserve many many more subscribers than you already have. Your lessons are so easily understandable and nicely explained. I always learn so much from your videos. Thank you so much sir. And keep sharing more.😊
Thanks so much for the nice comment and for watching! :)
Good options. I have done them all. Finally I landed on buying rolls of raw linen, attaching to stretchers, applying sizing which tightens them super drum tight, and then couple coats of oil ground. Its a lot of work but the best surface, especially if going to larger paintings. The alkyd oil ground can be painted on sooner. Titanium or Lead, should cure for a long time, otherwise will suck the oil out of your paint. So planning way in advance is necessary. Alternatively, I also have rolls of pre primed linen and stretch them on stretchers, but the fit is never as good as starting from raw linen.
This is such a helpful video. Thank you
Many thanks for sharing this video.very useful information
Thanks! I also use canvas paper pads (Strathmore, Fredrix), which are cheap and OK for studies. I'm a beginner and trying to paint daily.
Yes those pads are great too! I often use the Fredrix pad sheets for my video demos. :) Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! This is the kind of info I've been looking for!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
If I don't comment, I usually at least give a thumb up if i stayed over a minute, but I don't understand why there are thumb down (I hope it's just people mis tapped), really great video, really really appreciated!
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching! I'm so glad you enjoyed my video. :)
This was very helpful. Thank you so much
Thanks again for a very informative video.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching! :)
Yep, solid panel with lead oil ground is the best and is my goal for my master pieces. I'm starting on Arches oil paper and will do the studies on this first. I've seen a conservationist restore oil on paper that was mounted on hardboard panel, so it's completely restorable too if that ever came up.
With the Arches you don't really have to worry...it's designed to take oil. :) Thanks for watching and happy painting!
Awesome video ❤️
Thanks for watching! :)
Another great video. 👏🏻👍🏻 After I prime do I need to sand it or can I just paint once its cured? Thanks Jason 😃
Great video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching :)
Hi Jason . Have to say that I'm still loving your videos and picking up many tips along the way. I have always made my own cotton duck box frame canvas from scratch and generally applied two to three coats of acrylic primer prior to painting . As things progress and I am starting to sell my work for more money and also use more professional quality paints I am getting more concerned about longevity. Oil priming is out of the question as I often make the under painting in acrylic which I work over with oil glazes and embellishments . Do you think acrylic primer is the best choice in this situation.. All the best simon
Thanks so much for the nice comment! :) Yes, acrylic gesso primer will work fine for your style of painting. There really isn't any other choice if you do an acrylic underpainting. Any good quality gesso will be OK. Someday you might want to try oil priming just to see if you like it.
Thanks very helpful
Hi Jason thanks for all the videos. I did Learn about various priming like rsg or pva and then oil priming, but I am not partial to a smooth surface, and it seems I read on gamblin or a legit site that said just gessoing is fine too. I have been reading a lot of different sources, and seems it comes down to feel, and based on the descriptions and my preferences i am thinking it might not be a process I need to put in the practice.I’ve been painting for about two years. I might try it just to try it eventually but I never sand and usually like tooth and not slick. Thanks again and for the community
Thanks for watching! Yes, not every surface will appeal to every artist. I would recommend trying an oil primed canvas as it still has the canvas texture but the oil priming makes it less absorbent. You can see what you think. :)
Thank you so much , subscribed
Thank you so much for the nice comment and for watching! :)
hello , i would like to say that you are my hero and i really love your videos , i wanted to ask about the time oil primer takes to get dry? thank you very much and plz keep doing this videos
Thanks so much for the nice comment!! Oil primer drying time depends on the pigment used. For traditional Linseed oil primers, if it is Titanium based it will take a couple of weeks to dry to the touch probably, then it needs to cure for a month or two before you paint on it. Lead Oil Primer in dries to the touch in a day or two, but still needs the curing time. Alkyd-Oil based Primers dry overnight and can be painted on in about a week. Hope that helps! :)
Hi Jason, thanks so much for these wonderful videos! I've been in an art slump lately trying to find my vision again, and I found your videos. In the last few days while traveling I've already sketched out five potential pieces! I think your explanations are helping me get back to the motivation I had to start painting in the first place. I also have a quick question. I've noticed the lead oil primer is about $10 more than the titanium oil primer (both are Williamsburg). Have you noticed a significant difference between the results you get between them in your final product? Thanks so much!
Hi David, what a wonderful comment!! Thanks! I'm so glad that my videos have helped you get back into your are routine. :) Well, the Lead primer dries much faster. The longer you let it cure the better surface it is to paint on. It's hard to describe, but yes it does seem to have a more pleasing working quality! Hope that helps.
it does, thanks!
Jason,
Thank you for your time you dedicate to your videos. I find them both enjoyable as well as informative.
I have a couple of questions about substrates, please.
Please,
Why use a linen canvas rather than a cotton?
Why use an oil primer as opposed to an acrylic primer for a canvas?
Why use an oil with lead to prime a canvas rather than simply an oil primer?
With my appreciation.
Susan
Thanks for the nice compliment on my videos! Linen is stronger than cotton canvas because the fibers are naturally longer, so ultimately it will stand the test of time better. Linen also has a more organic weave that most painters prefer. Cotton canvas texture can look mechanical. Oil base primers are less absorbent so your colors "sit up" on the canvas instead of soaking in (like acrylic does) so the finished painting looks brighter and fresher. Lead is the preferable oil primer since it remains flexible long term and is less likely to crack, but the titanium primer is OK too. :)
THANK YOU !!!
You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video :)
Jason, a couple of questions for you, all pertaining to the actual wood board towards the end: 1. What type of plywoods would be suitable for painting? Birch, Pine? Just curious about your experience with different types of wood. 2. When using a traditional wood panel, do you prime it with acrylic gesso or use sizing prior to putting on your oil primer? Thanks again for another wonderful video!
Thanks for watching Rob! I have been enjoying your channel too. In fact, your recent video inspired me to get a Sienna Supply box to go with my pochade set-up. :) As far as the wood panels go, I haven't used them all that often. I bought the pre-made one meant for painting from the art supply store, so if a person wanted to go with a plywood from somewhere like Home Depot, etc then I would say that birch would be good. I would avoid pine. You want something fairly hard and good quality. The the kind of plywood used for high-end wood crafting rather than construction. When I got the plain wood panel from Blick, I did put two coats of acrylic gesso on it first. Then the lead oil priming layer.
Walcott Fine Art Thank you so much for the advice, especially about the acrylic gesso primer. I may venture out soon and try to start a project on wood. Something about the raw and traditional nature of it appeals to me.
And that’s awesome! You will really enjoy the Sienna supply box. It’s been so cold here in Arkansas lately that I haven’t been able to paint outside much, but hopefully the weather will give me a break soon. Have fun with your new supply box!
By the way, you’ve got a painting on your website that I’m absolutely enamored with called “Dappled Stream.” Truly fantastic work!
Thanks so much for the compliment on Dappled Stream! :) Let me know how you like the wood once you try it. Hope it gets warmer soon!
Thanks, any ideas on how to quickly frame panels to hang?
Thanks for watching! Framing is a huge topic! For panels, your options are somewhat limited for quick. An inexpensive solution would be to buy a diploma/photo frame from Wal-Mart. Take out the glass and matt and just use the frame. This assumes you've painted on a standard size like 11 x 14 or 8 x 10. Hope that helps!
As a beginner, I have started (water mixable) oils on arches oil paper, one thing I don't like is it takes a good bit of medium to make application any way smooth.
Would there be much smoother application on even the cheapest gesso'd canvas vs oil paper?
Thank you so much for this, clears up a lot of confusion. I have about 25 hardboards that my husband cut for me, and I Jessore them. And I am wondering should I buy the oil primer, and put on top for better experience, and if so, not sure from your video what Oil primer you meant- I saw Williamsburg ground lead? Should I put gray, yours seems to have pastel yellow, or leave it white? Thank you so much!!!
Yes, you can put the oil primer on top of the gesso. Willaimsbrug does make a Lead Oil Primer, but it is expensive, so be aware. You can also get one made with Titanium White or use the Gamblin Oil Primer. These panels in the video are white, it's just the lighting that makes them look yellow. I do usually tone my canvases with Raw Umber before painting on them. Thanks for watching!
Hi, can you make a video on skin tones please
Thanks for watching. Yes! The skin tones video will be coming up soon.
Have you ever sprayed rustoleum paint which is I think oil based,on a panel to use as a painting surface? Also how big a size of panel do you use before you switch to stretched canvas because of the weight for framing etc? TX
Thanks for watching! I wouldn't recommend ever using paints or materials meant for household use for fine art purposes. Rustoleum isn't made to last more than 15-20 years probably. I typically paint smaller in my own work, so panel vs canvas is more of a preference, but I would say anything larger than 18 x 24 the panel starts to get too cumbersome.
Thank you for sharing! Would you avoid MDF? As I heard it's not archival, would you have to prime both sides to make it weatherproof?
A lot of artists use MDF, but I would tend to think it's not archival even though I haven't heard that directly. I would stick to the acid free or "archival" MDF panels from art suppliers. I wouldn't use the MDF from say Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. Priming both sides would help protect it, but not necesarily make it more archival. Thanks for watching!
Hi, Jason!
Thank you so much for all of your videos-- I have been learning quite a lot from your demonstrations. I had a couple questions about surfaces and textures with oil paint. I am a mixed-media painter and I have been using acrylic paint and I am shifting to use oil paint only and I often paint on wood. From what I understand, painting on wood you must use PVA size to seal the wood from absorbing any of the linseed oil in the paint. Using gesso by itself is not sufficient (if I'm understanding correctly) because it is predominantly only adding tooth to the surface. Is that right? And if so, is it safe to use oil paint on a wood surface thoroughly coated only in size without gesso?
And secondly, in my work I use a lot of paper, hardware nails and other found objects. Are there any specific precautions I would have to take in order to protect these materials from the oil in the paint as they become a part of the piece itself?
Thank you very much for all of your help!
Doug
Hi Doug, I'm sorry I just saw this comment today! You don't necessarily need to apply a PYA size to wood underneath the acrylic gesso. You can, to make things easier, but several coats of gesso will accomplish the same thing. You might want to try Micheal Harding's Non-Absorbent acrylic gesso to aid further in reducing the absorbency of the wood. The main purpose of the size originally in the old days was to create a barrier between the oil and the substrate. If linseed oil comes in direct contact with paper, wood, canvas etc, it will eventually rot it away and turn it to dust. Acrylic gesso does this without the need for a sizing. Anything that is made of cloth or wood fiber should be coated with a protectant. Metal objects like nails wouldn't need it. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Hi Jason,
Thank you so much for your reply! That all makes sense. I have been using Gamblin oil primer on my pieces of wood, which as been working out great. As a sealant I've been using one part galkid and one part gamsol which is really nice (I reached out to Gamblin and they gave me those instructions-- very helpful!)
Thank you again for all of your thorough reviews and tutorials. They are very comprehensive and well done!
Best,
Doug
Thank you Mr. Walcott for this nice video. I found that oil painting is bit costly than acrylic painting.
Thanks for watching! :)
I understand that these are basic options, and I am wondering why oil primed vs. rabbit skin glue gesso? Also, wondering why you don't seal the wood on both sides first? The oil will eventually rot the wood, won't it? I am asking because I am newish to oil painting but want to do the absolute longest lasting technique, and you seem to have the most knowledge on the subject but maybe skipped the sealing step. By the way, your videos are really awesome and I can't find a video of someone laying down rabbit skin glue gesso on plywood or sealing the wood first, maybe there is a reason? I am currently experimenting with shellac to seal the wood first, and then will do a thin varnish, and then start my painting.
Thanks for watching! Rabbit skin glue is the traditional size to seal canvas or wood. You are correct that you cannot allow oil paint or oil to come in contact with the raw canvas or wood or it will rot it away over time. I do not use rabbit skin glue. It's stinky and messy. If I neglected to mention in the video (and I apologize) I always start with a layer of acrylic gesso and then put my oil priming on top of that whether it's canvas or wood panel. I just use modern gesso in place of the rabbit skin glue which is fine to do and much easier!
do you have any insight on painting oil/acrylic on vellum? Thank you.
I"m sorry but I have never painted on vellum. Assuming it's made from a standard paper material, you should be fine painting on it with acrylic though it may buckle from the moisture. Anything painted with oil need to be primed first with acylic gesso. Thanks for watching!
I plan on doing a family wall painting (oil wall painting) with my grands (6-13). I'm a beginner so what do you suggest, from what to paint on, to what paint to buy? I don't know how they going to decide to paint, from making a hand painting, to paint with brushes, or just writing their name; it's about 7 of them, so we doing it together as family time. I need help to know what all to use to accomplish this.
Thanks for watching! If you are going to be painting a big wall in your house just for fun, you might want to consider either going with acrylic/latex house paints from Home Depot etc, or buying some tubes of student grade acrylic colors. Oil paint might not be the right medium for that purpose. But, if you want to check out my video on oil paints types, you can watch that here: th-cam.com/video/_KisbDiPiXQ/w-d-xo.html If you dcide to use oils, be sure to prime the wall properly with primer first to prevent the oil from soaking into the wall. Ask the paint guys at the hardware store to help you find the right ones, as I'm not sure about that. Hope that helps!
Hii, thx for the video.. Can you please tell what will be best for a smooth & plain surface?
Thanks for watching! You can paint on masonite if you want to. They also make hardwood panels that you can get at art supply stores. The Speedball Gessoboards are a good brand.
Walcott Fine Art okk thanks a lot!
What are your thoughts on Ampersand’s Gesso boards ?
They are quite good! I have used them on occasion and do like them. Thanks for watching :)
Hi! Very informative as always. I have a question: is it safe to prime a masonite surface with underpainting white (oil), directly? As I understood, it wouldn't be safe, or would it be? Maybe I should prime it with gesso first and aply another layer with oil underpainting white. What do yo think? Thanks in advance!
Hi Nathan, thanks for another great comment! Yes, you must prime the masonite with acrylic gesso first before putting any kind of oil paint on it. Just like canvas and paper, masonite will eventually disintegrate if you put the oil paint directly onto it. In the case of canvas, it will literally turn to dust.
Thank you very much!
Thanks Jason. Good info.Can oil based house primer be used?
Thanks for watching Condee! :) The answer is no!! I realize now I should have mentioned this in the video. Don't ever use primers/paints intended for household use (like from Home Depot) for art. They are not designed to last for long periods of time. Latex paint is not the same as acrylic gesso. A good oil-based primer to try is Gamblin's. It is less expensive and dries quickly. You can paint on it within a week or so. Incidentally, Jackson Pollack used household wall paints to make his art. That was in the 1950s. Now only 60 years later, conservators are scrabbling to save his works which are already starting to degrade.
Thanks Jason.... Is linseed oil, purchased at the store, the same as from an art store? Some people use linseed oil for wet on wet. If so, it would be very cost effective.
I would be very cautious. It's possible that stores like Home Depot might sell high-grade linseed oil (for finishing furniture etc), but absolutely avoid anything like "Boiled linseed oil". It isn't meant for artists use. Hope that helps! Cold Pressed Linseed oil is the best.
Thank you so much for this! I noticed that your stretched canvases had a bunch of wood making up the frame but mine are really thin... Is that a problem?
Chances are you have an inexpensive/student grade canvas. Those thin stretchers can warp or sometimes cause "ghosting" which means they will show through on the front on the painting. They're good for practice, but I would eventually recommend upgrading to a better brand, especially if you want to sell your work. A great and economical alternative are the professional canvas panels like Centurion Deluxe. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 thank you so much!!
Hi Jason, thanks for this wonderful video. I have a request. Would it be possible for you to show us how to oil prime a board/canvas? Everyone knows about oil priming but not many knew that these commercial boards have been primed with titanium white, which makes it simpler as lead white is either very expensive or banned (in some countries). Then there is a big question of size. I think the viewers will be greatly benefited with this if you could show us the process that you follow.
PS. I have no idea if art companies are using zinc oxide in their titanium white oil/acrylic primers. Generally, these days it is recommended not to use zinc in a painting. Does it cause any problems if the primers have zinc mixed into them?
Thanks for the watching and for the great comment! That is a good idea. I wil be sure to do a video on oil priming etc... Small amounts of Zinc are OK when mixed in with Titanium White. It is usually less than 15%. It's only the pure Zinc White you want to avoid.
Walcott Fine Art thanks very much Jason for taking the time to share your knowledge with everybody in such a clear and beautifully articulated manner! will surly wait for your video on oil priming.
Jason, I’m wondering about the possibility of painting on top grade birch plywood. Have you done this before? I would assume I could prime it with acrylic gesso, then prime it with oil primer, and seal the backside. Am I correct?
Thanks for watching and yes absolutely! High quality plywood can make an excellent surface to paint on and you would prepare it just as you said. :) The only drawback is it can get heavy at larger sizes.
I am of the opinion that you would need to seal both sides of the wood first with something like shellac or dare I say polyurethane (we don't know how long poly will hold up in 100 years or more as it was developed not too long ago), whereas shellac has been around for hundreds of years and holds up well as long as you don't spill alcohol. The wood needs to be isolated first to prevent rot. Also, isn't there a possibility that the acrylic gesso first layers would peel away from the oil over time and thus cause cracking or peeling off?
Thank you once again for a very interesting and informative video which came at perfect timing for me as I'm searching for a good alternative. I've done lots of painting on masonite (my learning basically) and found that they warp after some time. Also tried 1/4 inch birch wood panels and they warp also. I've been told that galeries do not accept panels (masonite, cardboards, etc). So I heard of Gator foam boards. Do you have any experience with that ? (accepted by galeries or not, painting surface quality, etc ?). I personally prefer painting on smooth surfaces, canvas drives me crazy because of all the bumps and light reflections, but that's just me. Also someone mentioned Stefan Baumann. Do you know, from one of his video, that he advocates priming with Restoleum in a can ? I was flabergasted. Not sure about that. But to each his own. Best wishes and thank you again, Dominique.
Thanks for watching! You posted a great comment...I have not heard that galleries in general do not accept works on panels. I will have to do more research on that. I wouldn't use Gatorboard as it is not archival. You could try the cradeled wood panels. It is designed not to warp. Until you mentioned, it I had forgotten about S. Baumann saying to use Rustoleum! Like you, I was very surpised at that. I wouldn't do it.
Montreal Artlive maybe you can try good quality half inch plywood. I made four paintings on half inch plywood as a trial. these were used as shelves. But they never warped in nine years even though they had heavy files on them for years.
Thanks Jason. I'm in the process of changing painting surfaces and craddled wooden panels is going to be my choice. I'm about to take the leap from student to pro, so I'm looking to present my work in the best possible manner.
Hi Kaustav, I have tried that in the past recycled all sorts of wood leftovers, but it's too heavy. OK for small sizes, but quite unmanageable in larger sizes. The same for wall hanging. Also if you have to ship your work, it's really expensive because of the weight. Thank you for your suggestion. As I replied to Jason, I think craddled wooden panels will be the way to go for me. Best.
Yeah. The weight is a big issue. The panes that I used are 14X9 (not big at all). But these are very heavy. Shipping is certainly gonna be very expensive.
Do you think Arches Oil paper could take a coating or two of oil painting primer?(not acrylic gesso, oil based primer) Im trying to avoid some of the extreme absorbancy qualities the paper naturally has!
Thanks for watching and great question! I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that. Oil primer has the same basic ingredients as paint.
Jason, I use Gamblin Oil Primer. If I use a board, can I just paint the oil primer directly onto the surface?
No it still needs to be primed with a coat of acrylic gesso first. Linseed oil will rot paper and wood over time so there needs to be a barrier layer in between the raw wood/canvas and oil ground. Hope that helps :) Thanks for watching!
Hello, I am enjoying your videos! I find them very informative. One quick question, if you use an oil primed linen panel do you still want to oil prime it again before painting?
No, if it comes already oil primed you can just start painting on it. :) Thanks for watching!
So if you can paint over gesso with oil primer, what is the issue with "sizing" ? Is sizing just a sealer for bare canvas? I have read that before applying oil primer that you have to first use rabbit skin glue, however if that is the case, why do they not recommend gesso if it does the same job before applying oil primer? I was taught after too many years of struggling with the dry dragging brush strokes over gesso, to use oil primed. Wish I had known this fifty years ago.
Thanks for the great comment! You are correct that sizing is just a sealer for the canvas. You would use either sizing or acrylic gesso...no need to use both. Years ago rabbit skin glue was used because that's all there was, and acrylics hadn't been invented yet. The only reason I can think of why you want to use the rabbit glue instead of gesso is that acrylic gesso creates a permanent bond with the canvas. That makes it harder for conservators to work with the painting if that need ever arises. I hear you! It was a long time before I had ever heard oil painters should paint on oil primed canvas. I don't know why they don't tell beginners this more often. It would save a lot of grief.
Quick question: would you be able to make videos on paper quality for watercolor paintings? In terms of size, costs, and quality. Thank you!
Thanks for watching! I can certainly do some videos on watercolor paper etc. :) It's not my main medium but I do dabble in it from time to time. In the meantime I would suggest you check out Steve Mitchell's channel. He has the best channel on watercolor I've seen: th-cam.com/users/mindofwatercolor
Walcott Fine Art! Thank you! You are great! :)
Do you see a big difference between a acrylic prime coton duck canvas with a layers of oil ground on top versus a oil primed linen canvas, i also feel that many time the pre made oil primed linen canvas, the ground is not so good.
I have not noticed any huge difference in those two applications, but I do find the ones I prime myself with the lead based oil primer to be a nicer surface to paint on. Thanks for watching!
Would there be anything wrong with using a clipboard as an art panel?
Thanks for watching! If it was made of masonite/hardboard, you could use it since artists use that routinely for panels. You'd still have to gesso it though. I wouldn't use anything plastic.
Hi Jason, my question may seem a little odd to a professional like you but I am just gonna ask it anyway. Does it always have to be a wood panel? If I am painting on a plein air sketching panel, isn't it better to paste my canvas on to a hard plastic examination board? I can make the plastic sheet a little rough by sanding the surface, cut to fit the size. They are cheap, lightweight but I don't think they are going to warp. Only thing to worry about is that if they are hard enough. Is this a good idea?
Great question! Actually no it does not have to be a wood panel. There are companies today making art boards from green and recycled materials. As far as the plastic goes, my concern would that the canvas would not adhere. There usually needs to be some absorbency of the surface for the glue to stick permanently. Glues made for plastic probably wouldn't last very long. Another alternative is Masonite, which you can get at the hardware store and cut up yourself.
Walcott Fine Art thanks very much Jason for your reply. I was thinking about that too. I will go with Masonite and seal it first and paste canvas on top of it.
I started a new painting recently. I tinted the canvas with a thinned layer of Titanium white and Prussian Blue. What do you think of this approach?
Oh yeah, the canvas came with the acrylic white and layered with the white and blue tint.
That 's fine! What ever colors work for you, you can tone the canvas with. Just be sure to keep the paint thinned down with thinner so you are following the fat over lean rule.
So helpful videos.. plz I really need your advice.. I am doing oil paintings on canvas boards from camlin kokuyo brand..... Are canvas boards not good enough? I want to sell these paintings in near future at normal price no at high prices.. can u please suggest canvas boards vs streched canvas for oil.. as these are the only option available at my place.. eagerly waiting for your response thankyou ..
Thanks for watching! Depending on where you live, you might be able to find Masterpiece Pro brand canvases and boards. That's the best brand. If not, WInsor & Newton canvas panels are very good and they make stretched canvas too. WInsor & Newton is one of the most common brands so you should be able to find those. If you can't then Fredrix is a godo runner up. If you can order online from the USA, then I would recommend either the Masterpiece Pro as I said, or Centurion Deluxe from Jerrys' Artarama. You could also try ordering from Jackson's in the UK. They ship worldwide.
@@walcottfineart5088 thankyou so much for replying..I just love your videos..I am going to watch them all😊
I buy pre-made, lead oil primed, birch linen panels from Wind River Arts (www.windriverarts.com). They're beautiful and quite reasonably priced.
Hi Nathan, thanks for the info! I have a vague memory that I might have seen those, but forgot all about them. Will have to check them out. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason,
I used to love painting on canvas panels, like the ones you showed in this video, but then this guy from youtube Stephen Baumman said that these panels are really bad for your paintings because they don't last as long as a stretched linen canvas (installed over a woden frame).
He also says the panel becomes dust within 100 years, while the stretched canvas can last thousands of years. Do you know if this is true or if I can just return to panels again? :D
Edit: The canvas panels I am talking about are the ones sold at walmart, made of cardboard, not wood.
Thanks for watching and for a great question! I am familiar with Stephen Baumann's videos... he has a lot of great info. He is right that the cheap canvas panels (like the Creative Mark I showed or Walmart's) are not long term archival. However the Ray-Mar panels with the linen and some other hand made brands like that can be. However, they are just as expensive as the canvases. Stretched canvas or real wood panels are the best, I just wanted people to know what options they had available. The cheap ones are good for practice when you're starting out.
Ah ok, I was a little excited thinking it was all as good. I guess I will stick to stretched canvases then, or maybe the wood ones, because what I like about the panels is they are thin and sturdy. Thanks for the help!
Great! Glad I could help. :)
That means half my paintings won't last, oh well I am going to have to use framed canvas in the future.
Can I use a regular canvas like acrylic canvases??
You can, yes, but they are harder to work on with oils as is. The best thing to do is prime them with a coat of oil primer first. Thanks for watching!
Walcott Fine Art thank you✨
Hi!!! I always paint on canvas with acrylic gesso but I have bough canvas with alquidic gesso. What is the difference ? How can I paint in this alquidic canvas? I need liquid? Can a use my tradicional medium ( linseed oil and terpentine) please help!!!!!!. Excuse me , what do you think about liquin and how liquid is used? ,I don't understand fat over lean in liquin. Excuse my English!!! Espero que estés genial, un abrazo.
Thanks for watching. I think you might mean Alkyd primer? You can treat that the same way you would a traditional oil primer. Alkyds and oils are intermixable. Liquin is an alkyd based medium. If you are using only Liquin then fat over lean is less of an issue. Just be sure each layer has an equal or greater amount of oil/medium in it.
@@walcottfineart5088 alkid sorry jaja. My cuestión is what is the difference with acrylic primer ( gesso). I always use acrylic primer and i have bough alkid canvas. This canvas is fatter than acrylic canvas Can I paint without problems with my tradicional medium ? Or I must use more linseed oil in the first layer and more in the second etc. thanks very much. Excuse my english
@@joseluisrojasmontiel1468 Yes, you can use all your traditional oils and mediums with a alkyd primed canvas. You do not have to use more oil in the layer if you are using Liquin. Winsor & Newton's and Gamblin's "Oil Primers" are really alkyd primers.
@@walcottfineart5088 thank you.
You should paint on a good linen canvas if you're professional.
Yes, linen is the best! Thanks for watching. :)
Please all details p paphar
I am unsure as to what you are asking? Thanks for watching!
thanks! what is oil priming? I only have gesso.
Thanks for watching! Yes the acrylic gesso you have is much more common. Oil Priming is just that...an oil based primer for your surface. It comes in two basic forms...traditional and alkyd based. Winsor & Newton and Gamblin's Oil Primers (that's what it's called on the can) are the alkyd based ones. Williamsburg makes the traditional linseed oil primer in both Titanium and Lead. Remember to use the oil primer over acrylic gesso, or buy the pre-oil-primed canvas/panels. Don't apply the oil primer to the raw canvas!
thank you so much Jason. Always learn something new from you!
What exactly is oil primer ? Could one just use titanium white over acrylic gesso ? Thanks.
You really should use primer rather than tubed white for the base layer. It's designed to perform that way. Gamblin makes an oil primer that is nice. It's just a primer that is oil/alkyd based rather than the acrylic gessos which are water based.
You can spray your board with Rustoleum...good enough for car paint...good enough for oil paint:)
My broke ass: acrylic primed paper it isssss 🙊🙉💸💸🖌
That is fine to use! As long as the surface is sealed with acrylic gesso it is OK to paint on with oils. Thanks for watching!