I don't do much with oil painting these days, but when I did, I had a phase where I used a limited palette of series 1 colors almost exclusively. Those were: yellow ocher, burnt sienna and ultramarine blue plus white. They are all very lightfast, affordable and when you buy them in 200 ml tubes on sale, they are pretty inexpensive too. Honestly, there is a lot of concern about colors, but in painting, value is so much more important than color.
For starter getting the student quality is actually reasonable. You dont want to buy expensive thing then realize you dont wana paint anymore or even change to other type like watercolour.
Great content Doris, thank you. I love these colorful stuff, please keep them coming! I’m using a really similar high chroma split primary color palette with some additional earth colors as well. I’ve tried cheaper and less hazardous alternatives over the last years, but I still couldn’t find a worthy replacement for cadmium yellows, especially in lighter/cooler tones. Although I finally replaced cadmium red in my palette with pyrrole red, it’s a bit less opaque but much more clean when mixed or tinted. Bye bye, cad red! I used to use phthalo blue green shade as my cooler blue color but that color is way too strong and difficult to handle so I replaced it with cobalt teal - or cobalt turquoise. Needless to say, it’s much more expensive and a lot harder to find but you know, how can one resist cobalt teal’s unmatched beauty, right? My palette is: Titanium white, PW4 Cadmium yellow light, PY35 Indian yellow, PY83 Pyrrole red, PR254 Quinacridone magenta, PR122 Ultramarine blue, PB29 Cobalt teal, PB28 Phthalo green YS, PG36 Red oxide, PR101 Burnt umber, PBr7
Thanks for sharing your palette! It’s always useful to be able to learn from what other artists are using! I feel like it’s really through those years of trial & error where you learn what really works for you. I’ve never actually tried cobalt teal or turquoise but it’s certainly looked tempting to me as I’ve seen it in other artists palettes - tho as u say quite expensive! One red I’ve found that is also a great cadmium replacement is vermillion extra by old holland & it’s even more expensive than cadmium and I feel that every time I use it haha I have to remind myself I bought it to use it!
I burn through titanium white! I’m wondering if I should Go back to students grade titanium white ? will there be much of a difference ? What about mixing A little artist grade titanium white with mostly student grade? I definitely use artist grade for all my colors . it’s white that kills me every time I buy 200 ML for $30 bucks !
That is definitely a tricky 1. As you say, most artists go through white at a much higher rate so that can get pricy so you could switch to use a student grade white & given you are more likely to replace it sooner than other colours this gives u the option to upgrade again in the future. Also unlike other colours whites are usually the same pigments in student & artist grade paints it’s just the ingredients will be more simple in more expensive brands so more expensive white will likely last longer. But because u mix white in so many other colours some artists choose to upgrade their white and save by buying other colours in student grade - given white is mixed into most areas of your canvas it can lift the quality of other colours. White is also one of the cheaper pigments to buy in artist quality paints - I think it’s usually series 1 along with earth colours. So you could decide to buy expensive colours like cadmium’s cobalts etc in cheaper brands or as skip those pigments for similar but less expensive pigments. Both strategies can work for different reasons. You can also order white in even bigger quantities online if u don’t mind it in a can (I think gamblin & Williamsburg) as that tends to be most cost effective.
3/8/2022 USA Grandpa Bill: Thank you! This is very helpful. I have drawers full of student-grade paint. I should have done what you are recommending. I didn't know either.
I do agree on most of the information you have here - but then you need the people who make the mistakes in buying cheap paint - who is going to tell you to not waste time and money? Not the people making the paint, they will insist on telling you that their paint is of high quality - where I do not agree is the use of cadmium paints - you can get by using hues, but cadmium paints do have a particular quality to them - and there are some brands on the market that are not so expensive - and here a personal note - if you are following a tutorial by an artist, do use his paint brand - it can be quite a challenge to use the wrong paint - especially using paints with very much higher pigment loads - or naturally the opposite.
@dorisroseart Thanks! Yeah, I'm starting with some cheap oil paints to get a feel for things, I know not everyone recommends that... So, to get a bright high chroma color over a larger area, start with an acrylic of lighter value of that color (slightly desaturated by white?) as a foundation for that oil color?
That sounds like a great plan. Just make sure you lay the acrylics first, let them dry, then use oils on top. You may have adhesion or cracking issues down the line if you mix acrylic & oil or use acrylics overtop of oil. But acrylics are less expensive & perfect for an underpainting.
Do the alternative colors have similar transparency levels? I currently use lemon yellow (hansa yellow light) and i prefer opaque colors so im looking into getting cadmium lemon
No, the transparency levels are different for each pigment so that can be a factor. I do find my cadmium yellows tend to be more opaque than the modern alternatives like Hansa yellow.
They are very similar colours and comparable but are different pigments. Benzimidazolone Yellow Medium (PY154) has a similar masstone to Hansa Yellow Medium (PY73) But is weaker in tint strength and brightness than Hansa Yellow Medium. Benzimidazolone Yellow Light (PY175) is very similar to Hansa Yellow Light (PY3) in colour but the difference is the masstone
Alot of people quit painting so buying old holland right off the bat makes no sense. Your paintings will only look a tiny bit better with the best paint. An artist can use burnt sticks to make good art
![ค้างคืนโรงเก็บกระสวยอวกาศร้างกลางทะเลทราย [Around The World Ep. 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E5bWZQhABJE/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't do much with oil painting these days, but when I did, I had a phase where I used a limited palette of series 1 colors almost exclusively. Those were: yellow ocher, burnt sienna and ultramarine blue plus white. They are all very lightfast, affordable and when you buy them in 200 ml tubes on sale, they are pretty inexpensive too.
Honestly, there is a lot of concern about colors, but in painting, value is so much more important than color.
For starter getting the student quality is actually reasonable. You dont want to buy expensive thing then realize you dont wana paint anymore or even change to other type like watercolour.
or waste expensive paint on practice work
Yea good advice i heard is buy cheap paint and expensive brushes at first. People are scared of using their paint
Great content Doris, thank you. I love these colorful stuff, please keep them coming!
I’m using a really similar high chroma split primary color palette with some additional earth colors as well. I’ve tried cheaper and less hazardous alternatives over the last years, but I still couldn’t find a worthy replacement for cadmium yellows, especially in lighter/cooler tones. Although I finally replaced cadmium red in my palette with pyrrole red, it’s a bit less opaque but much more clean when mixed or tinted. Bye bye, cad red!
I used to use phthalo blue green shade as my cooler blue color but that color is way too strong and difficult to handle so I replaced it with cobalt teal - or cobalt turquoise. Needless to say, it’s much more expensive and a lot harder to find but you know, how can one resist cobalt teal’s unmatched beauty, right?
My palette is:
Titanium white, PW4
Cadmium yellow light, PY35
Indian yellow, PY83
Pyrrole red, PR254
Quinacridone magenta, PR122
Ultramarine blue, PB29
Cobalt teal, PB28
Phthalo green YS, PG36
Red oxide, PR101
Burnt umber, PBr7
Thanks for sharing your palette! It’s always useful to be able to learn from what other artists are using! I feel like it’s really through those years of trial & error where you learn what really works for you. I’ve never actually tried cobalt teal or turquoise but it’s certainly looked tempting to me as I’ve seen it in other artists palettes - tho as u say quite expensive! One red I’ve found that is also a great cadmium replacement is vermillion extra by old holland & it’s even more expensive than cadmium and I feel that every time I use it haha I have to remind myself I bought it to use it!
Splendid ! Pleace make a video showing us your mediums for oil painting, how they look and behave when You mixt them with oil paint .....
I burn through titanium white! I’m wondering if I should Go back to students grade titanium white ? will there be much of a difference ? What about mixing A little artist grade titanium white with mostly student grade? I definitely use artist grade for all my colors . it’s white that kills me every time I buy 200 ML for $30 bucks !
That is definitely a tricky 1. As you say, most artists go through white at a much higher rate so that can get pricy so you could switch to use a student grade white & given you are more likely to replace it sooner than other colours this gives u the option to upgrade again in the future. Also unlike other colours whites are usually the same pigments in student & artist grade paints it’s just the ingredients will be more simple in more expensive brands so more expensive white will likely last longer.
But because u mix white in so many other colours some artists choose to upgrade their white and save by buying other colours in student grade - given white is mixed into most areas of your canvas it can lift the quality of other colours. White is also one of the cheaper pigments to buy in artist quality paints - I think it’s usually series 1 along with earth colours. So you could decide to buy expensive colours like cadmium’s cobalts etc in cheaper brands or as skip those pigments for similar but less expensive pigments.
Both strategies can work for different reasons.
You can also order white in even bigger quantities online if u don’t mind it in a can (I think gamblin & Williamsburg) as that tends to be most cost effective.
Great video doris i totally agree with everything u said
Thank u !! 🤩
Those colors that are using Linseed oil or Carthame Oil, can be mixed ?
3/8/2022 USA Grandpa Bill: Thank you! This is very helpful. I have drawers full of student-grade paint. I should have done what you are recommending. I didn't know either.
“Buy nice or buy it twice” as long as you can swing it go for the good stuff
I do agree on most of the information you have here - but then you need the people who make the mistakes in buying cheap paint - who is going to tell you to not waste time and money? Not the people making the paint, they will insist on telling you that their paint is of high quality - where I do not agree is the use of cadmium paints - you can get by using hues, but cadmium paints do have a particular quality to them - and there are some brands on the market that are not so expensive - and here a personal note - if you are following a tutorial by an artist, do use his paint brand - it can be quite a challenge to use the wrong paint - especially using paints with very much higher pigment loads - or naturally the opposite.
Hues has a different color combination result.
Thank you so much for this video.
🤗
You could lay the foundation of your painting with cheaper paints or even acrylic?
Yes, very true!
@dorisroseart Thanks! Yeah, I'm starting with some cheap oil paints to get a feel for things, I know not everyone recommends that... So, to get a bright high chroma color over a larger area, start with an acrylic of lighter value of that color (slightly desaturated by white?) as a foundation for that oil color?
That sounds like a great plan. Just make sure you lay the acrylics first, let them dry, then use oils on top. You may have adhesion or cracking issues down the line if you mix acrylic & oil or use acrylics overtop of oil. But acrylics are less expensive & perfect for an underpainting.
Nice
Do the alternative colors have similar transparency levels? I currently use lemon yellow (hansa yellow light) and i prefer opaque colors so im looking into getting cadmium lemon
No, the transparency levels are different for each pigment so that can be a factor. I do find my cadmium yellows tend to be more opaque than the modern alternatives like Hansa yellow.
Can you sell your art using these colors?
Hello Miss Doris Is Hansa Yellow Lightfast compare to Benzidamole Yellow?
They are very similar colours and comparable but are different pigments.
Benzimidazolone Yellow Medium (PY154) has a similar masstone to Hansa Yellow Medium (PY73) But is weaker in tint strength and
brightness than Hansa Yellow Medium.
Benzimidazolone Yellow Light (PY175) is very similar to Hansa Yellow Light (PY3) in colour but the difference is the masstone
I think the lightfastness is similar but not sure - you’d have to compare the paint manufacturer’s lightfast score for those paints
@@dorisroseart i see thank you maam
P😢😢😢pópólp😢😢😢@@dorisroseart
Alot of people quit painting so buying old holland right off the bat makes no sense. Your paintings will only look a tiny bit better with the best paint. An artist can use burnt sticks to make good art
She only said "artist quality", not that everybody needs Old Holland.
stressful with the music, voice and colour mixing - none of them seem to connect...