Many, many thanks to you for this video. I've bought Endurace 7.0 and when I saw the extender in it waay down in the fork, I immediately pushed down the stem under the spacers to avoid fork damage. While I was waiting for the official reply about this case, I found your video, and it's quite a release for me to know the fork is strong enough by itself. Thanks a lot!
Great video. My FSA compression plug is nearly identical and I used your DIY method to fill the space with a small piece of PEX plastic water pipe. It fit perfectly and provided a nice solid mount. Thanks for the great tip👍
Thanks for explaining what a compression plug is and how it works, not just how to adjust the headset. This is my first bike with a carbon steerer. The headset was rattling, so I took it apart and was surprised to find... a thing in there that wasn't a star nut. Turns out the compression plug wasn't inserted all the way > top cap wasn't contacting the top spacer > headset was loose, despite correct top cap torque. Now that I understand how it works, I was able to adjust things properly; no rattling anymore on our crumbling roads. Appreciate your help!
You are a your genius. There has been a big issue about the S-brand road bike fork failure in my country, even though it was the failure on the lower tubing, not on the steerer tube. Anyway, the rider suffered from heavy injuries. Your videos are always illuminating. Thanks.
In ye olde days before a lot of CF-specific stuff like expansion plugs were available, I filled the top of the fork clamping area with PC-7 paste epoxy, embedding the nut permanently, as well creating an uncrushable plug.
The sequence you show for installing the compression plug is incorrect. The stem should be lightly tighten onto the steerer, then the top cap should be tighten until there's no vertical play in the fork. Only then should the stem be tighten and torqued to the correct value. The way you install it, the compression plug cannot adjust the vertical play of the fork because you've already tighten the stem to the steerer, preventing any adjustment by the top cap.
mucked with the Whisky No. 7 and FSA compression plug (the Whisky plug was defective and would not hold at all - LBS tried it with carbon paste even) for like 2 hours and could not get it to keep tight. as soon as i would ride or even play with it using the brake to asses, the top cap would loosen. i went back removing some of the excess grease after re-lubing the year old Hope bearings, and then noticed the one shim type sliver of aluminum needed to go into the space between the fork steerer tube and headset, THEN the top headset bearings go on that. i had inadvertently placed the shim on top the bearings which inevitably would not tighten. overall though, am concerned i cracked the carbon since this loosening bit happened a few rides after my only crash on the front end. no visible damage and the tap test is not reliable if you ask me. if i can keep the headset from moving, then we're golden, just worry why it suddenly got loose in the first place.
Thank you, good video. I replaced my stem with a shorter one. But the new one has a cut out for weight saving. The original stem only has no more than 6mm hole there in the steerer tube clamp for weight reduction. The plug would work well with the new stem too if I did not have spacers on top of it. But because shorter stem it seems I can now get the handlebar lower also.. (Thanks to shorter stem I can now finally ride my bike by holding from hoods. Before I could only be comfortable on drops) But I don't want to cut it before I'm really sure. Now the plug is under the upper part of the stem clamp.. on same height with the upper edge of stem.. I think it's more important to reinforce lover part.. There's only 4 or 5 millimeters of clamping surface on top and bottom of the stem at front side where they have made that weight saving hole. So it makes me little nervous. Clamped it to about 3.5N.m force.. Maybe should have get less. I don't torque wrench to measure. Used a luggage scale, attacked to the end of hex key.. about 10cm long handle. And pulled it ti about 3.5 kg force.. It's probably very approximate measure, because pulling angle may differ, and the scale strap may slide on handle, but well I guess the most important was to get both similarly tightened.. which obviously can't happen ,because lover part of clamp don't have plug inside.. but well your video gave me some courage.. I never had a carbon seat post but yes. It should hold, until I save some more money and buy longer.. pro plug. It's expensive..
Its important the reinforce the steerer under the stem clamp.... especially at the top as this is the steerers weakest point. If you cannot afford a torque wrench at moment could you could get your local bike shop or even motor mechanic to check it for you.
Thanks for this video - you stopped me putting carbon paste on my steerer. I'm having a few issues with play creeping back into the headset bearings once I've preloaded the bearings and tightened the stem bolts (sequentially, as you describe). It's as though the steerer distorts once the bolts are tightened, the stem lifts a fraction of a millimetre and some compression is lost. I don't even have to ride the bike (Orro Terra 105 C) for the play to happen, just tighten the stem bolts. It has one of those long expansion plugs without the knurling, I'm going to try a Deda one instead, hopefully will provide better reinforcement. I was also going to try carbon paste in the steerer, but I won't now after your advice.
@@stevenleffanue Hi, and thanks for the reply. Just to be clear, I thought the general advice in the video was to not put paste on the steerer - but in my case, if I use it locally at the point where stem clamps the steerer, it should be okay?
@@nawaal4452 I bought a different expander plug www.wiggle.co.uk/deda-expander-bung?sku=5360422694 and it made all the difference. No issues with play now.
If loosen your handlebar can go right and left when you hold your tires? I have issue with the new compression plug.. I already tightened but my handlebar still can moved
Hi there, love your videos. Man after my on heart on attention to detail. Please could you help me with my Cannondale KP017 expander. This has a top cap that is suppose to support with fins on the inside but the top stem bolt compresses the steerer. I was wondering if cutting a beer can into a long strip and wrapping around may support more? your thoughts are much appreciated.
+Sam Aylott If your steerer tube is carbon fiber, the KP017 with thin plastic fins is not sufficient Sam. Wrapping it with a metal shealth will still allow the fins to easily bend thus not being a proper support. My advice would be to replace it with a full compression plug.
Thanks for such a swift reply. Is this your full time job? Im inclined to agree. Its frustrating as I complained to the bike store when i purchased it 2 years ago as the headset came loose during my first 100 mile ride. Combined with their bike fit resulting in about 25mm of spacers above the stem to make the support even worse. My fear now is that the movement could have dished the carbon ring the headset bearings sit in? I will look to replace with a full length expander, Deda make a nice one with a knurled gripper.
great info, some good comments, thanks. Unfortunately my aged body is in need of more handlebar height to relieve chronic pain. I'm hesitant to install an alloy stem raiser on my carbon fork's steerer tube. Might a full length compression plug (which my fork doesn't have now) add some strength to the steerer tube prior to a stem riser installation? I refuse to stop riding until I can't. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Great video and explanation. I have a question regarding Canyon and I'm hoping you can help me. I've been considering a Endurace or Ultimate and I've heard some really bad things about their headsets and bearings. I've heard that the headset is quite cheap and the bearings wear out very quickly. Further, the bearings are quite expensive, $80 euros, and hard to source from anyone other than Canyon. What is your experience with them or do you know of any issues in this area. Just doing due diligence before handing over a large chunk of cash.
+Anton Rodman Sorry Anton I havn't had any personal and closeup experience with the Endurance or Ultimate models but Canyon have great service and warranty backup. Also Canyon do a lot of research and testing before committing components to their bikes. As long as there is a Canyon office in your country you should be fine.
I damaged the carbon steerer whilst cutting it down, the structural integrity of the tube has been compromised. The forks are a write off, but with a full length plug and the stem clamping on it it's holding up well, it's survived 2000k's of hopping curbs and everything (on an aero bike too). Where there's a will there's a way?!
Tempted to check it, but think I'll put it off until I hear noises, don't know if it'll hold being clamped a second time. Thanks for the heads up! (steerer pun)
No all carbon forks are 100% carbon. Some are a 50/50 combination of fibreglass and carbon fibre and there is no way I would ride without a full length compression plug, this like wheels and brakes are critical safety related components.
I want to put a MTB carbon rigid fork on my mtb to loose some weight , I do some low bunny hops max 7 inches high, 1 foot max low drops and gravel riding would you recommend it?
should the bottom of the compression plug line up with the bottom of the stem clamp? also, i have one like the one you're demonstrating in your video. Should the top cap be screwed all the way down on to the compression plug threads? regardless, it seems like there's needs to be some amount of spacer/steerer tube above the stem clamp with this particular plug. the hack with the plastic pipe is brilliant. i'll be heading to the local hardware store after christmas
+smp156 Yes, the bottom of the plug should be as close as possible to the bottom of the stems clamp. The cap doesnt need to be using all the thread so long as it is able to exert a upward pull on the fork it will be fine. With the plug like we both have...the fork steerer a couple of mm below top of stem clamp will be ok.
thanks for responding so quickly! so, extending below the stem clamp isn't good either? and merry christmas. your videos are fantastic. so glad i found your channel.
+smp156 Doesnt matter if the plug goes below the clamp....the whole idea is to support the interior of the steerer where the stem clamps on. Glad you like the vids. Have a nice break yourself, (good time to get some riding in 😁).
Usually how much is the tensile torque (N/m) setting for the headset expander compression plug (by using torque wrench) if i installed in an aluminum fork tube? Thanks..
Oz, what is the maximum distance you would advise from top of the stem to top of the compression plug? I have heard 3mm.... Can I go 5-7mm? I want to bring bars up a bit.
Thanks for your videos. I have an Aeroad too, headsets are not my strong point. I recently completed Flanders cobbled sportive and the headset loosened a little. I foolishly tightened the top cap without loosening stem bolts, the plastic sleeve has lost its shape, but the steerer tube appears fine. I’ve since adjusted it properly and everything seems in good working order. I am worried I may have overtightened the top cap bolt, is there I risk I may have damaged the steerer tube?
Thank you for the video!! I didnt quite catch what did you say comparing the load on seatpost (tube) and fork (tube). Did you mean one should inspect them and compare their condition after each ride ? I have recently moved stem down by about 1 cm while keeping the expander at the same position, is it normal ? (expander is placed quite deeply, maybe 3cm inside the tube.. it is Bianchi XR4). Thank you!
Can ya explain how the specialized carbon stem plug works? As for over tightening, the specialized carbon stem plug recommends 9 NM for the inner screw. Any thoughts on this?
Hi Branden. Im not familiar with the specialized compression plug but each manufacturer is responsible for their own products and installation. So if you have this plug and it says 9Nm torque, then yes,tighten it to that tension.
My Scott Speedster Gravel with a Syncros fork/headset has a longer compression plug to reinforce the steerer tube. The problem I have is that somehow the plug slips up the steerer tube, especially riding on gravel. I need to retighten again to the recommended torque but it won't last much. Could I try use some carbon grip paste on the plug/inside the steerer tube or change the plug to something with better grip?
Yes. Clean the plug and inside of steerer with degreaser or alcohol first. Grease any meatal thread on the plug. Apply grip paste to inside steerer and on gripping surfaces of plug. Should hold tight now.
@@stevenleffanue Thank you so much for the fast reply! I couldn't sleep well last night, it bugs me, being a new bike and all. I was thinking about the grip paste but I hesitated. Now, with your experienced "blessing" I'll do that. Thanks again and ride on! 🙂
Thank you for the video. I intend to get a Canyon bike and I watched several online videos. Many has bad review on Canyon's headset - Acros. Apparently they use a plastic reinforce onto the headset. Any idea how or if you know any parts we could swap and change with another better headset?
Acros headset preload is achieved with the clamp below the stem and spacers,not a preloading top cap as traditional. If a problem still exists it will be a warranty issue with Canyon. If you like you can arrange with your local Canyon dealer to replace the Acros with a traditional aheadset on your new bike.
If you view your bike's model on the canyon website there will link to the headset manual, just expand the headset section under 'components'. The manual will show you how to install your headset. I'd recommend checking it after your first month, as it may need re-tightening. Hope this helps!
If your Canyon is running a 1.5” steerer, I’d be going out to get the Giant TCR compression plug ASAP. Still not perfect but a trillion times better than that waste of space Canyon install. That design by Canyon is downright dangerous. An accident waiting to happen.
oz cycle Just had a Canyon Bike in & due to their being no compression plug/bung, the carbon steerer tube is showing a damaged fracture line down the strerer where the stem bolts tighten. Shame on you Canyon...this is not acceptable & damn right dangerous for the rider.
That Acros headset used by Canyon is a piece of rubbish, I had to replace expansion plug after that small plastic sleeve got deformed during headset tightening. Otherwise, Canyon bikes are great.
Had to flip the steam on my Aeroad and noticed plug is way down just like your is. Not aligned with where the steam is clamped down. Have you moved your plug up or did you end up slamming that stem down eventually?
Ive got 2 spacers under my stem...slammed is too low for me. Doesnt matter where the plug is in the stem as it doesnt need to reinforce the steerer according the Canyon.
what do you mean by "poly" when you're talking about the reinforcing piece to accompany the compression plug? I've been scouring my local hardware store, but cant find anything that will fit anywhere near inside the steerer tube, and over the top cap
Hi! I have a the same model of the Aeroad but in the rim breake version, and recently het change the original plastic compression plug with a normal one like the one that appears on your video, is that something bad? or I need to change to the original one? Thanks!
No need of a compression plug? Haha, check out Raoul's Videos to that topic. He's making everybody beeing concerned about their carbon parts failing catastrophicaly. Lol. Mike your opinion, at least what you are saying makes feel better about all that compression plug thing
@@gbugg1361 I don't know, I am looking for this info. I have a regular 2018 Ultimate AL 8.0 SLX with a Carbon CANYON ONE ONE FOUR SLX Fork. According to the name should be 11/4 right?
When you removed the Canyon plug, the plastic was all chewed up!? Is that plastic plug really used to set bearing pre-load? I’ve got an Aeroad and I’m struggling to load the bearing without damaging the flimsy plastic top cap!
oz cycle thanks for the response! With that in mind, would it not be wise to simply add the Canyon compression plug back in but lock it off at the height inside the steerer where your stem will clamp around?
oz cycle thanks again. I’ve come to the same conclusion. Carbon fibre is so strong when forces are applied suited to the intended design and profile of the component. Don’t over torque and you’ll be fine. Yes, in a crash, things will snap and break but no way will you crash because the steerer simply sheered clean on a huge descent. It just wouldn’t happen. You’d have hundreds of miles of notice in the form of progressive weakening and slop in the feel as cracking makes its way across through the layup. As much as I hate this design by Canyon, I guess it’s the cheapest and lightest way forward. This suits manufacturers and also the keen cyclist who wants the lightest possible setup for a complete bike. Its not the easiest to setup, but it seems many of the big manufacturers are going this route and there’s been no evidence of sudden horrific failures which is nice 😁
So how does this work then? I bought an ultimate with a cp10 Aerobars. When putting the top cap back in the plastic tube ist too long. If tightening it just destroys the plastic tube. What to do here?. Do I need to move the plug further down? How to move it down. I tower the plug with the hex to 4nm. I am confused since I thought this part was damaged. The replacement is like 30 euros just to get a new tube? Thanks
You need a minimum 80mm compression ( expansion plug) in order to use a 25mm stack of spacers under the handle bar extension. The reason is that the spacers become a fulcrum point and this requires the expansion plug to reach past the spacers. This video explains it fully and why bike companies are playing with your life, I made this video to save people's necks th-cam.com/video/9sKIc2piLA8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NDK0s40XvPEkrUYg.
Раньше все смеялись над рекомендацией "доработать напильником", когда речь шла о чем-то советском. Теперь, дорабатывать напильником надо суперсовременные углеродные байки.
it really depends how the stem is made . not all stems are made equal there. some stems have huge holes in there clamping areas or lots of machinging making the steam contact on the steerer even less. and them some have no holes or removed material in the clamping area of the stem. so a better stem could spread the load better with the tube below the stem then a worse designed stem with some carbon tube above it. but it will add extra strength to leave 2mm above the stem either way.luescher has a good video about it. it is quite long but goes pretty indepth about looking at stems.but on this bike he defintely has it pretty far below the stem th-cam.com/video/AWn3JzTp4T4/w-d-xo.html but oz has started using larger more supportive expander plugs also which also helps.
I Had very Bad experience with Orbea, they gave me an ordu Triathlonbike and the steerer Tube gets broken after just 9 Tkm. Inbetween Traffic, 50 kmh +. That shit can kill people. No warranty. Orbea, real fu... Off Orb... I wished I had watched this Video earlier.
Bro, don't know where you got this "knowledge" of how carbon forks work and what the compression plugs are for (even the name blatantly states its purpose) but what you presented here is simply wrong. And frankly potentially lethal. Look up Luescher Teknik on here, the guy knows carbon inside out, and ask him to give you feedback on what you said here.
@@stevenleffanue dude, you are telling people that in some instances they could ride their bikes without a compression plug.. that is just idiotic. Manufacturers are clueless about what they make and design.. take Cannondale, who just recalled 11.000 (yes eleven-thousand) of their CAADX bikes, because they already killed one person because of carbon fork failure. I love how clueless people think they are somehow "experts" at something, just because they make YT videos..
@@stevenleffanue "You need to be more specific about what you find wrong??" BRO, even a bogan like durianrider has this stuff sussed out eg th-cam.com/video/vxoozD4WdJk/w-d-xo.html. Not to mention another fellow oz, Raoul from Luescher Teknik who has a great channel on here who's got enough material on there to hopefully convince you to remove this misleading and frankly dangerous video.
@@Bungle2010 Well if all your knowledge is based on information enclosed in a typical sales brochure of your favourite bike brand, then I'm not surprised that you're surprised. Anyway, if you want to talk about "all hail our corporate gods", see Bianchi recall where they openly admit that compression plug has to be installed and it has to be long enough to support the stem, otherwise there is a high risk of fork developing cracks, since carbon on its own is unable to support the clamping forces. This doesn't apply to Bianchi only, it's a basic carbon property.
Guy walks into a bike shop. The guy weighs 250 lbs. He says hey i want to buy a bike. The clerk points to his most expesive carbon bike. Guy looks at him, turns away and walks out. But the bike was on sale for 7000.00 ??????? Carbon......the only material you dont need.
Guy walks into a TH-cam video. Says he wants to learn about compression plugs. TH-camr explains every important piece of knowledge. Guy looks at him, and leaves a pointless, dim-witted comment. But the video was extremely informative???????? Moronic comments, one of the many things you don't need.
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Important tips in this vid!!
Many, many thanks to you for this video. I've bought Endurace 7.0 and when I saw the extender in it waay down in the fork, I immediately pushed down the stem under the spacers to avoid fork damage. While I was waiting for the official reply about this case, I found your video, and it's quite a release for me to know the fork is strong enough by itself. Thanks a lot!
Great video. My FSA compression plug is nearly identical and I used your DIY method to fill the space with a small piece of PEX plastic water pipe. It fit perfectly and provided a nice solid mount. Thanks for the great tip👍
Yep,thatl work. Good thinking using plastic piping.
Thanks for explaining what a compression plug is and how it works, not just how to adjust the headset.
This is my first bike with a carbon steerer. The headset was rattling, so I took it apart and was surprised to find... a thing in there that wasn't a star nut. Turns out the compression plug wasn't inserted all the way > top cap wasn't contacting the top spacer > headset was loose, despite correct top cap torque. Now that I understand how it works, I was able to adjust things properly; no rattling anymore on our crumbling roads. Appreciate your help!
You are a your genius. There has been a big issue about the S-brand road bike fork failure in my country, even though it was the failure on the lower tubing, not on the steerer tube. Anyway, the rider suffered from heavy injuries. Your videos are always illuminating. Thanks.
Thank you! I try to find a detail explanation about compression plug and I am lucky to find you.
Thanks again, I have a new carbon bike, I want to adjust handlebar height and exchange stem to longer one....your information helps me a lot.
Wow, i thought i Knew everything on aheadsets; but this is really in depth EVERYTHING. I now Go and remove the Carbon Paste i just put on 🙈
Thanks for the video, first tutorial that was detailed and very usefull I was really struggling with the loose headset.
I use a compression plug on a non carbon MTB fork.
It works far better than the barbaric star nut.
In ye olde days before a lot of CF-specific stuff like expansion plugs were available, I filled the top of the fork clamping area with PC-7 paste epoxy, embedding the nut permanently, as well creating an uncrushable plug.
Fill the entire steerer with solid resin. Then tap a hole for the cap for setting up the bearings, or adjust the bearings without it.
Good tip on cutting and filling plastic pipe to reduce circumference 👍
your videos are all very good quality content, ive enjoyed watching all of your videos! keep it up!
Very useful video. thanks for sharing.
Use DEDA or Colnago OEM expander plug with full length inside fork steering.
The sequence you show for installing the compression plug is incorrect. The stem should be lightly tighten onto the steerer, then the top cap should be tighten until there's no vertical play in the fork. Only then should the stem be tighten and torqued to the correct value. The way you install it, the compression plug cannot adjust the vertical play of the fork because you've already tighten the stem to the steerer, preventing any adjustment by the top cap.
I think exactly the same and agree with you
Me too, that is shown in wrong sequence.
Very helpful mate, thanks for sharing and explaining
Longer the plug 🔌 the better for carbon so it spreads the load, sod the weight
Great video.
My bike manufacture provided a tube of friction paste to use on all fittings, per instructions.
Learnt a lot from this. Thanks!
mucked with the Whisky No. 7 and FSA compression plug (the Whisky plug was defective and would not hold at all - LBS tried it with carbon paste even) for like 2 hours and could not get it to keep tight. as soon as i would ride or even play with it using the brake to asses, the top cap would loosen. i went back removing some of the excess grease after re-lubing the year old Hope bearings, and then noticed the one shim type sliver of aluminum needed to go into the space between the fork steerer tube and headset, THEN the top headset bearings go on that. i had inadvertently placed the shim on top the bearings which inevitably would not tighten. overall though, am concerned i cracked the carbon since this loosening bit happened a few rides after my only crash on the front end. no visible damage and the tap test is not reliable if you ask me. if i can keep the headset from moving, then we're golden, just worry why it suddenly got loose in the first place.
Thank you, good video. I replaced my stem with a shorter one. But the new one has a cut out for weight saving. The original stem only has no more than 6mm hole there in the steerer tube clamp for weight reduction. The plug would work well with the new stem too if I did not have spacers on top of it. But because shorter stem it seems I can now get the handlebar lower also.. (Thanks to shorter stem I can now finally ride my bike by holding from hoods. Before I could only be comfortable on drops) But I don't want to cut it before I'm really sure. Now the plug is under the upper part of the stem clamp.. on same height with the upper edge of stem.. I think it's more important to reinforce lover part.. There's only 4 or 5 millimeters of clamping surface on top and bottom of the stem at front side where they have made that weight saving hole. So it makes me little nervous. Clamped it to about 3.5N.m force.. Maybe should have get less. I don't torque wrench to measure. Used a luggage scale, attacked to the end of hex key.. about 10cm long handle. And pulled it ti about 3.5 kg force.. It's probably very approximate measure, because pulling angle may differ, and the scale strap may slide on handle, but well I guess the most important was to get both similarly tightened.. which obviously can't happen ,because lover part of clamp don't have plug inside.. but well your video gave me some courage.. I never had a carbon seat post but yes. It should hold, until I save some more money and buy longer.. pro plug. It's expensive..
Its important the reinforce the steerer under the stem clamp.... especially at the top as this is the steerers weakest point. If you cannot afford a torque wrench at moment could you could get your local bike shop or even motor mechanic to check it for you.
Great video, I learned a lot!
Thanks for this video - you stopped me putting carbon paste on my steerer. I'm having a few issues with play creeping back into the headset bearings once I've preloaded the bearings and tightened the stem bolts (sequentially, as you describe). It's as though the steerer distorts once the bolts are tightened, the stem lifts a fraction of a millimetre and some compression is lost. I don't even have to ride the bike (Orro Terra 105 C) for the play to happen, just tighten the stem bolts. It has one of those long expansion plugs without the knurling, I'm going to try a Deda one instead, hopefully will provide better reinforcement. I was also going to try carbon paste in the steerer, but I won't now after your advice.
Yes , put carbon paste on the steerer where the stem clamps
@@stevenleffanue Hi, and thanks for the reply. Just to be clear, I thought the general advice in the video was to not put paste on the steerer - but in my case, if I use it locally at the point where stem clamps the steerer, it should be okay?
@@sloblock1972 I am having the same issue mate. Did you find a fix?
@@nawaal4452 I bought a different expander plug www.wiggle.co.uk/deda-expander-bung?sku=5360422694 and it made all the difference. No issues with play now.
Lot's of relevant info!
I have the compression plug tighten up to around 9 to 10 nm on my Trek madone from 2022. 🙈
I have that same Aeroad with no compression plug. I'll let you guys know if I'm shopping for teeth soon.
read the forums....cayon forks are failing from no plug.
@@durianriders filing durian rider mate fukin bananas dude
Thanks for the info.
Great guy, great vid
I had the same problem but I got a extra long plug from deda about 5 inches long...no more creaking or getting loosen
If loosen your handlebar can go right and left when you hold your tires? I have issue with the new compression plug.. I already tightened but my handlebar still can moved
excellent video!
very useful video. great tip.
Hi there, love your videos. Man after my on heart on attention to detail. Please could you help me with my Cannondale KP017 expander. This has a top cap that is suppose to support with fins on the inside but the top stem bolt compresses the steerer. I was wondering if cutting a beer can into a long strip and wrapping around may support more? your thoughts are much appreciated.
+Sam Aylott If your steerer tube is carbon fiber, the KP017 with thin plastic fins is not sufficient Sam. Wrapping it with a metal shealth will still allow the fins to easily bend thus not being a proper support. My advice would be to replace it with a full compression plug.
Thanks for such a swift reply. Is this your full time job? Im inclined to agree. Its frustrating as I complained to the bike store when i purchased it 2 years ago as the headset came loose during my first 100 mile ride. Combined with their bike fit resulting in about 25mm of spacers above the stem to make the support even worse. My fear now is that the movement could have dished the carbon ring the headset bearings sit in? I will look to replace with a full length expander, Deda make a nice one with a knurled gripper.
great info, some good comments, thanks.
Unfortunately my aged body is in need of more handlebar height to relieve chronic pain. I'm hesitant to install an alloy stem raiser on my carbon fork's steerer tube. Might a full length compression plug (which my fork doesn't have now) add some strength to the steerer tube prior to a stem riser installation? I refuse to stop riding until I can't. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Should be OK if you're not putting a lot of force on the bars....or...good excuse to purchase a new bike 🙂
So its not a good idea to just pop on one of those extended compression plugs?
A very relevant video
would like to ask if you have ever installed a headset on a Cinelli superstar bike frame. Do the bearing need to be pressed in? Thanks for your help
Gran video, muchas gracias!!
Great video and explanation. I have a question regarding Canyon and I'm hoping you can help me. I've been considering a Endurace or Ultimate and I've heard some really bad things about their headsets and bearings. I've heard that the headset is quite cheap and the bearings wear out very quickly. Further, the bearings are quite expensive, $80 euros, and hard to source from anyone other than Canyon. What is your experience with them or do you know of any issues in this area. Just doing due diligence before handing over a large chunk of cash.
+Anton Rodman Sorry Anton I havn't had any personal and closeup experience with the Endurance or Ultimate models but Canyon have great service and warranty backup. Also Canyon do a lot of research and testing before committing components to their bikes. As long as there is a Canyon office in your country you should be fine.
ciao che modello è l'expander sostitutivo?
Oh noo! I put carbon fibre paste on my steerer last week! I am going to remove it today!
I guess I will stick with alu for fork.
I damaged the carbon steerer whilst cutting it down, the structural integrity of the tube has been compromised.
The forks are a write off, but with a full length plug and the stem clamping on it it's holding up well, it's survived 2000k's of hopping curbs and everything (on an aero bike too).
Where there's a will there's a way?!
+Kieran Sulikosky Good one . Be careful tho,cracks in carbon start off tiny and creep along slowly weakening the integrity.
Tempted to check it, but think I'll put it off until I hear noises, don't know if it'll hold being clamped a second time. Thanks for the heads up! (steerer pun)
No all carbon forks are 100% carbon. Some are a 50/50 combination of fibreglass and carbon fibre and there is no way I would ride without a full length compression plug, this like wheels and brakes are critical safety related components.
I want to put a MTB carbon rigid fork on my mtb to loose some weight , I do some low bunny hops max 7 inches high, 1 foot max low drops and gravel riding would you recommend it?
should the bottom of the compression plug line up with the bottom of the stem clamp?
also, i have one like the one you're demonstrating in your video. Should the top cap be screwed all the way down on to the compression plug threads?
regardless, it seems like there's needs to be some amount of spacer/steerer tube above the stem clamp with this particular plug.
the hack with the plastic pipe is brilliant. i'll be heading to the local hardware store after christmas
+smp156 Yes, the bottom of the plug should be as close as possible to the bottom of the stems clamp. The cap doesnt need to be using all the thread so long as it is able to exert a upward pull on the fork it will be fine.
With the plug like we both have...the fork steerer a couple of mm below top of stem clamp will be ok.
thanks for responding so quickly! so, extending below the stem clamp isn't good either?
and merry christmas. your videos are fantastic. so glad i found your channel.
+smp156 Doesnt matter if the plug goes below the clamp....the whole idea is to support the interior of the steerer where the stem clamps on.
Glad you like the vids. Have a nice break yourself, (good time to get some riding in 😁).
Usually how much is the tensile torque (N/m) setting for the headset expander compression plug (by using torque wrench) if i installed in an aluminum fork tube? Thanks..
Aluminium is soft so about 6-7Nm
@@stevenleffanue Thank you so much.👍
Super delicate carbon bikes... I leave mine to my lbs... costs nearly as much as a car to buy... costs as much to service...
Should i use any carbon paste? Or not?
Genius!
Why is there no plug in a carbon seat post?
Oz, what is the maximum distance you would advise from top of the stem to top of the compression plug? I have heard 3mm.... Can I go 5-7mm? I want to bring bars up a bit.
As long as there is some steerer above the stem top when riding
Thanks for your videos. I have an Aeroad too, headsets are not my strong point. I recently completed Flanders cobbled sportive and the headset loosened a little. I foolishly tightened the top cap without loosening stem bolts, the plastic sleeve has lost its shape, but the steerer tube appears fine. I’ve since adjusted it properly and everything seems in good working order. I am worried I may have overtightened the top cap bolt, is there I risk I may have damaged the steerer tube?
Should be fine Matt as the Aeroad plug is all plastic and designed to pull the steerer up without internally expanding on the steerer.
can alluminum steerer tube use the compression plug?
+lee guankiat Yes Lee you can use a compression plug instead of a starnut in alloy steerers.
Do you have a recommendation for a plug and top cap to replace the cheap plastic canyon aeroroad cap like the one the bike in the video?
Most compression plugs will do as long as it spans the width of the stem clamp.
Thank you for the video!! I didnt quite catch what did you say comparing the load on seatpost (tube) and fork (tube). Did you mean one should inspect them and compare their condition after each ride ?
I have recently moved stem down by about 1 cm while keeping the expander at the same position, is it normal ? (expander is placed quite deeply, maybe 3cm inside the tube.. it is Bianchi XR4). Thank you!
As long as compression plug covers minimum of the complete headsten clamping area
Теперь фраза "доработать напильником" не смешит, а пугает...
Can ya explain how the specialized carbon stem plug works? As for over tightening, the specialized carbon stem plug recommends 9 NM for the inner screw. Any thoughts on this?
Hi Branden. Im not familiar with the specialized compression plug but each manufacturer is responsible for their own products and installation. So if you have this plug and it says 9Nm torque, then yes,tighten it to that tension.
My Scott Speedster Gravel with a Syncros fork/headset has a longer compression plug to reinforce the steerer tube. The problem I have is that somehow the plug slips up the steerer tube, especially riding on gravel. I need to retighten again to the recommended torque but it won't last much. Could I try use some carbon grip paste on the plug/inside the steerer tube or change the plug to something with better grip?
Yes. Clean the plug and inside of steerer with degreaser or alcohol first. Grease any meatal thread on the plug. Apply grip paste to inside steerer and on gripping surfaces of plug. Should hold tight now.
@@stevenleffanue Thank you so much for the fast reply! I couldn't sleep well last night, it bugs me, being a new bike and all. I was thinking about the grip paste but I hesitated. Now, with your experienced "blessing" I'll do that. Thanks again and ride on! 🙂
Thank you for the video. I intend to get a Canyon bike and I watched several online videos. Many has bad review on Canyon's headset - Acros. Apparently they use a plastic reinforce onto the headset. Any idea how or if you know any parts we could swap and change with another better headset?
Acros headset preload is achieved with the clamp below the stem and spacers,not a preloading top cap as traditional. If a problem still exists it will be a warranty issue with Canyon.
If you like you can arrange with your local Canyon dealer to replace the Acros with a traditional aheadset on your new bike.
If you view your bike's model on the canyon website there will link to the headset manual, just expand the headset section under 'components'. The manual will show you how to install your headset. I'd recommend checking it after your first month, as it may need re-tightening. Hope this helps!
If your Canyon is running a 1.5” steerer, I’d be going out to get the Giant TCR compression plug ASAP. Still not perfect but a trillion times better than that waste of space Canyon install. That design by Canyon is downright dangerous. An accident waiting to happen.
+J B I agree J B yet Canyon still stands by 'no compression plug required'.
oz cycle
Just had a Canyon Bike in & due to their being no compression plug/bung, the carbon steerer tube is showing a damaged fracture line down the strerer where the stem bolts tighten.
Shame on you Canyon...this is not acceptable & damn right dangerous for the rider.
That Acros headset used by Canyon is a piece of rubbish, I had to replace expansion plug after that small plastic sleeve got deformed during headset tightening. Otherwise, Canyon bikes are great.
Hola,como puedo sacar araña de Canyon ultimate atascada? gracias saludos
should I use a compression plug for a titanium fork? or better a star nut?
Compression plug as it doesnt score the inside of the steerer and is easily adjusted and removed.
Had to flip the steam on my Aeroad and noticed plug is way down just like your is. Not aligned with where the steam is clamped down. Have you moved your plug up or did you end up slamming that stem down eventually?
Ive got 2 spacers under my stem...slammed is too low for me. Doesnt matter where the plug is in the stem as it doesnt need to reinforce the steerer according the Canyon.
what do you mean by "poly" when you're talking about the reinforcing piece to accompany the compression plug?
I've been scouring my local hardware store, but cant find anything that will fit anywhere near inside the steerer tube, and over the top cap
+smp156 19mm black poly tube...used for household gardening
Thanks for the reply, but i was wondering what the term “poly” is. Its a type of plastic? A slightly
Softer than say, pvc tubing?
Hi! I have a the same model of the Aeroad but in the rim breake version, and recently het change the original plastic compression plug with a normal one like the one that appears on your video, is that something bad? or I need to change to the original one? Thanks!
Canyon states that Aeroads dont require compression plugs. If you put one in it should be fine. Contact your closest Canyon office for further info.
@@stevenleffanue Thanks you!
If I want to replace the compression plug, how to know how deep to lower it, is 3 centimeters enough. This is a canyon model
Compression plug must cover stem clamping length minimum
@@stevenleffanue so it’s mean the compression plug must longer than the stem ?
@@Fahmmii Go for 5cm long, or if u have many spacers, 7cm.
@@Gianniz27 thanks!
Shouldn't you tighten the top cap first and only after the stem bolts? :D
Top cap is usually the preload so must be set before tightening stem bolts
what size is usually on a road bike 1 1/8 or 23.5?
1 1/8
No need of a compression plug? Haha, check out Raoul's Videos to that topic. He's making everybody beeing concerned about their carbon parts failing catastrophicaly. Lol.
Mike your opinion, at least what you are saying makes feel better about all that compression plug thing
@1:23 - Parallax Error, XXXS Caynon or Forced Perspective - Funky!!!???!
Just to add that a 2018 Canyon Ultimate AL 8.0 SLX with a carbon fork has no compression plug at all. What do you think ?
If the bike comes with no compression plug,the manufacturer specifies it isnt needed. However you could use one for peace of mind.
docles
Please please fit a good compression plug because i've just witnessed a damaged Canyon steerer tube due to not having one fitted.
@@gbugg1361 Thanks for your advice, any model to recommend ?
docles
Is your steerer 11/4 od2 size or standard 11/8?
@@gbugg1361 I don't know, I am looking for this info. I have a regular 2018 Ultimate AL 8.0 SLX with a Carbon CANYON ONE ONE FOUR SLX Fork. According to the name should be 11/4 right?
When you removed the Canyon plug, the plastic was all chewed up!? Is that plastic plug really used to set bearing pre-load? I’ve got an Aeroad and I’m struggling to load the bearing without damaging the flimsy plastic top cap!
Yes the plastic pulls and bunches itself up but does work at putting a preload on.
oz cycle thanks for the response! With that in mind, would it not be wise to simply add the Canyon compression plug back in but lock it off at the height inside the steerer where your stem will clamp around?
You can but Canyon say its not necessary to have the compression plug ...the steerer is strong enough.
oz cycle thanks again. I’ve come to the same conclusion. Carbon fibre is so strong when forces are applied suited to the intended design and profile of the component. Don’t over torque and you’ll be fine. Yes, in a crash, things will snap and break but no way will you crash because the steerer simply sheered clean on a huge descent. It just wouldn’t happen. You’d have hundreds of miles of notice in the form of progressive weakening and slop in the feel as cracking makes its way across through the layup.
As much as I hate this design by Canyon, I guess it’s the cheapest and lightest way forward. This suits manufacturers and also the keen cyclist who wants the lightest possible setup for a complete bike. Its not the easiest to setup, but it seems many of the big manufacturers are going this route and there’s been no evidence of sudden horrific failures which is nice 😁
So how does this work then? I bought an ultimate with a cp10 Aerobars. When putting the top cap back in the plastic tube ist too long. If tightening it just destroys the plastic tube. What to do here?. Do I need to move the plug further down? How to move it down. I tower the plug with the hex to 4nm. I am confused since I thought this part was damaged. The replacement is like 30 euros just to get a new tube? Thanks
You need a minimum 80mm compression ( expansion plug) in order to use a 25mm stack of spacers under the handle bar extension. The reason is that the spacers become a fulcrum point and this requires the expansion plug to reach past the spacers. This video explains it fully and why bike companies are playing with your life, I made this video to save people's necks th-cam.com/video/9sKIc2piLA8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NDK0s40XvPEkrUYg.
When I tried to tighten my comp plug in 2-4nm the comp plug is sliding?
You can tighten the plug more than 2-4nm , its the cap that doesnt need much torque.
@@stevenleffanue it is bad if I tight the cap?
The cap is used to pull the fork up so that the headset has no slack. It doesn't require much force to do that.
@@stevenleffanue does over tightning the cap let say 5-6nm affect the carbon major?
HiWhere I can get the headset bearing cover ? Canyon bike ?many thanks
Nearest Canyon office to you should be able to source one for you.
@@stevenleffanue OK, thanks
still good in 2024 :)
Раньше все смеялись над рекомендацией "доработать напильником", когда речь шла о чем-то советском. Теперь, дорабатывать напильником надо суперсовременные углеродные байки.
the top screw has no official torque setting ? why ?
It's not clamping or holding anything. In fact, once your headset has been set, you can remove the bolt and cap and makes no difference.
@@stevenleffanue why ?
It's the headset compression setting bolt
What’s the remedy for the Canyon compression plug then? You skipped to the other bike after looking at the Canyon with no explanation? 🤷♂️
Canyon state its not required on that model
Better to install one, no matter what Canyon says. Many Canyos forks fail, in reality.
I pushed my compression plug down .. how do I get it out :(
Push it up from underneath?
Use a J-bend spoke to catch it from above
Pic at 7:09 is wrong - stem should not be above the steer tube of a carbon fork. There should be a spacer on top
it really depends how the stem is made . not all stems are made equal there. some stems have huge holes in there clamping areas or lots of machinging making the steam contact on the steerer even less. and them some have no holes or removed material in the clamping area of the stem. so a better stem could spread the load better with the tube below the stem then a worse designed stem with some carbon tube above it. but it will add extra strength to leave 2mm above the stem either way.luescher has a good video about it. it is quite long but goes pretty indepth about looking at stems.but on this bike he defintely has it pretty far below the stem th-cam.com/video/AWn3JzTp4T4/w-d-xo.html but oz has started using larger more supportive expander plugs also which also helps.
I Had very Bad experience with Orbea, they gave me an ordu Triathlonbike and the steerer Tube gets broken after just 9 Tkm. Inbetween Traffic, 50 kmh +.
That shit can kill people.
No warranty. Orbea, real fu... Off Orb...
I wished I had watched this Video earlier.
😬 first
Bro, don't know where you got this "knowledge" of how carbon forks work and what the compression plugs are for (even the name blatantly states its purpose) but what you presented here is simply wrong. And frankly potentially lethal. Look up Luescher Teknik on here, the guy knows carbon inside out, and ask him to give you feedback on what you said here.
You need to be more specific about what you find wrong??
@@stevenleffanue dude, you are telling people that in some instances they could ride their bikes without a compression plug.. that is just idiotic. Manufacturers are clueless about what they make and design.. take Cannondale, who just recalled 11.000 (yes eleven-thousand) of their CAADX bikes, because they already killed one person because of carbon fork failure. I love how clueless people think they are somehow "experts" at something, just because they make YT videos..
@@stevenleffanue "You need to be more specific about what you find wrong??"
BRO, even a bogan like durianrider has this stuff sussed out eg th-cam.com/video/vxoozD4WdJk/w-d-xo.html. Not to mention another fellow oz, Raoul from Luescher Teknik who has a great channel on here who's got enough material on there to hopefully convince you to remove this misleading and frankly dangerous video.
@@Bungle2010 Well if all your knowledge is based on information enclosed in a typical sales brochure of your favourite bike brand, then I'm not surprised that you're surprised.
Anyway, if you want to talk about "all hail our corporate gods", see Bianchi recall where they openly admit that compression plug has to be installed and it has to be long enough to support the stem, otherwise there is a high risk of fork developing cracks, since carbon on its own is unable to support the clamping forces. This doesn't apply to Bianchi only, it's a basic carbon property.
Hola, cómo puedo extraer araña de Canyon ultimate atascada? gracias saludos
Guy walks into a bike shop. The guy weighs 250 lbs. He says hey i want to buy a bike. The clerk points to his most expesive carbon bike. Guy looks at him, turns away and walks out. But the bike was on sale for 7000.00 ???????
Carbon......the only material you dont need.
Guy walks into a TH-cam video. Says he wants to learn about compression plugs. TH-camr explains every important piece of knowledge. Guy looks at him, and leaves a pointless, dim-witted comment. But the video was extremely informative????????
Moronic comments, one of the many things you don't need.
Solution.....dont use carbon
Also don't cross any roads in order to avoid the problem of having to look left or right.