General rule of thumb on carbon steerers: Cutting the steerer off below the stem's top surface is not recommended. Ideally you want one spacer ABOVE the stem to ensure the stem is clamping completely on the steerer tube.
Another homemade method is to use two disposable stems as the saw guide. As for the cutting blade you can also use a wolfram one, the one used for cutting ceramic tiles. Black with some diamond powder coating on the blade. Park tool uses it in its saws but you can get an indentical in a hardware store for couple of bucks.
I used a hose clamp and a very sharp hacksaw blade to do my steerer too. Works a treat as long as you're careful and double check all your measurements before taking the plunge!
You can but carbon fiber will eventually blunt the cutter. Pipe cutters also leave a ragged end which will require quite a lot of filing to finish. Best to use a fine tooth hacksaw.
4:48 that is the wrong plug to use, you need a compression plug that fully engages the entire length of the attachment arm. That plug is basically compressing only the top and bottom and the middle is having a negative compressed force from the up and down forces with nothing to support it in the middle. I would use a plug that goes past 10 mm past the bottom bolts.
thanks again, interesting vid and the subsequent discussion on cutting below the stem level as you did or keeping it above the stem to resist crushing / warranty issues. Have to say I'm confused now! A big issue for riders of older bikes like myself (Mendiz ally frame, 1" steerer, ally threaded headset & fork) is upgrading the fork - in my case due to a "coming together" with an e-scooter resulting in a bent ally fork. Would be great to see a vid on upgrading to carbon fork for example and moving to threadless headset. Perhaps it doesn't apply to you given your fine collection of bikes but perhaps you have a cheapskate mate (like me!) who wants it done???? I've no idea how many of us are out there riding older bikes but I'm sure I'm not the only one. Stay safe.
Nice video, just about to do this to mine. One thing, instead of lowering your stem, I reckon flipping it over would of had the same effect but looked better. Probably just me but I'm not keen on the look of a stem with a positive rise.
Dave Hughes wait stems are supposed to rise? I never thought that. Even with 17° 130mm stems, i always flipped them. Always thought"more aero" i often asked myself why bike shops assemble them reversed O.o
Hey, Oz! do you have any advice on cutting down a Canyon steerer tube? As you know they use the Acros headset so the compression comes from under the stem rather than the standard headset/topcap pulling the steerer up from above. My issue is that with the standard headset there is a decent tolerance of a mm or so but with there being no 'pull' from a top cap on a Canyon headset then any spacers above the stem would have to be perfectly flush with the top of the steerer or else the spacer could rattle if the steerer is too long or the top cap won't fit back into the steerer if it's cut too short. Would you recommend just adding a normal headset to negate the problem? Thanks in advance!
Im not all that familiar with the Acros preliad system but carbin spacers are available in 2,3,5 &10mm increments. Or perhaps try a soft plastic/rubber spacer that want rattle.
Dr. Oz, do you subscribe to the having a 5mm spacer on top vs no spacer? I know you just cut yours flush, so the question may be mute, but just curious because many bike manufacturers suggest a 5mm spacer at the top. Thanks...
Having steerer protrude above top of stem is to prevent crushing the cut end of the steerer. Ive never had a problem with flushing a steerer with stem but having 5mm above would be good practice...exept the pros, everything has to be slammed and aero 😂
@@stevenleffanue I just cut mine and using a 5mm spacer just in case there's ever a warranty issue; don't want to give the company a reason to brush me off. I suspect it would not be a problem, but the companies are covering their butts I'm sure. Yeah, the pros want it slammed, which is fine for them, they have sponsors that will replace stuff for them. Thanks for the reply.
There’s a reason why you loose guarantee if you’re cutting a tube like this with no overstay.We have seen many failures due to false stem/fork montage. Don’t risc your life just to have a cleaner look on your bike
@@stevenleffanue outside, i noticed some flaking after i set the stem for marking to set the cutting, i am worried thatbi might affect the integrity of the fork steerer
If the flaking is clear to light grey in colour its ok,it will be some outer epoxy but if the mark on the steerer is deep it would be wise to take the fork to a carbon repair specialist for advice.
You should never cut a steerer tube lower than where the top bolt of the stem clamps. You are offering terrible advice to people that may not know any better. you should take this video down before someone gets hurt.
In 2024 this is old but pure Gold! Thank you Sir👍🏻
Great tip on the hose clamp, I wasn't keen to buy a steerer clamp for this simple task
Great tip about the nail varnish to stop the ingress of water into the carbon fiber
OMG, what a brilliant tip the hose clamp is!!! You could even use two of those to get the same effect as with the really expensive Parktool gadget.
Brilliant tip with the hose clamp, thank you!
I did this exact method and it works perfectly. I slammed my race bike, I love the look and I love Oz’s method, thank you sir
Good work James.
General rule of thumb on carbon steerers: Cutting the steerer off below the stem's top surface is not recommended. Ideally you want one spacer ABOVE the stem to ensure the stem is clamping completely on the steerer tube.
I totally agree, I'd leave that 5mm spacer alone.
right.That is essential!
Love your smart, simple bike mechanic methods.
Another homemade method is to use two disposable stems as the saw guide. As for the cutting blade you can also use a wolfram one, the one used for cutting ceramic tiles. Black with some diamond powder coating on the blade. Park tool uses it in its saws but you can get an indentical in a hardware store for couple of bucks.
Thanks Oz. Your videos are always very detailed with little tricks, like using the clamp as a guide.
Great and informative video as per usual, OZ! For me, I cut the steerer tube with the help of an old stem instead of a hose clamp.
+Zrs Yup,good one Zrs
I also cut my steerer using a hacksaw. I still left a 5mm spacer after the top cap as suggested by many bike mechanics on youtube.
Your vids are really useful. You’ve got that “done it a thousand times, no fuss, nothing fancy” kind of experience / approach. Cheers 👍
wow, he cut so well. better than i thougt.
You just saved me lot of time and money! Thanks for the tips!
Just purchased a suitable hose clamp. I'll try this soon. Thanks Oz.
I used a hose clamp and a very sharp hacksaw blade to do my steerer too. Works a treat as long as you're careful and double check all your measurements before taking the plunge!
Good To See U Shop At Mitre 10 I Work For The Hardware And Power Tool Section Here In My Home Town
I'm just waiting for my new frame and was wondering how to cut the steerer level. The jubilee clip is an excellent solution .... Thanks
Thanks for this tip just saved me from wasting my extra stem
That's so genius with the clamp. I'm gonna get 2 and leave a middle part for the blade.
Great video, thanks!
hi, great video once again, like to ask, what about using a pipe cutter to cut the steerer tube? I just happen to have one of those.
You can but carbon fiber will eventually blunt the cutter. Pipe cutters also leave a ragged end which will require quite a lot of filing to finish. Best to use a fine tooth hacksaw.
Good tips on the hose clamp and nail polish 👍
HI Oz, may i ask normally compress plug need to us how many nanometer to tilt back with the carbon front fork ?
4:48 that is the wrong plug to use, you need a compression plug that fully engages the entire length of the attachment arm. That plug is basically compressing only the top and bottom and the middle is having a negative compressed force from the up and down forces with nothing to support it in the middle. I would use a plug that goes past 10 mm past the bottom bolts.
Great video! Any ideas on holding the front end steady without a repair stand?
Thanks all the time for your great tips.. ;)
thanks again, interesting vid and the subsequent discussion on cutting below the stem level as you did or keeping it above the stem to resist crushing / warranty issues. Have to say I'm confused now!
A big issue for riders of older bikes like myself (Mendiz ally frame, 1" steerer, ally threaded headset & fork) is upgrading the fork - in my case due to a "coming together" with an e-scooter resulting in a bent ally fork.
Would be great to see a vid on upgrading to carbon fork for example and moving to threadless headset. Perhaps it doesn't apply to you given your fine collection of bikes but perhaps you have a cheapskate mate (like me!) who wants it done????
I've no idea how many of us are out there riding older bikes but I'm sure I'm not the only one.
Stay safe.
CA glue is also good for sealing the CF just let it run over the top and wipe the excess
Great idea, thanks Oz!
Thanks for the info. Very well done.
There's some concern over the risk of carbon fibre dust on health. They generally recommend wetting the area to lower the spread of dust
Nice video, just about to do this to mine. One thing, instead of lowering your stem, I reckon flipping it over would of had the same effect but looked better. Probably just me but I'm not keen on the look of a stem with a positive rise.
Dave Hughes wait stems are supposed to rise? I never thought that. Even with 17° 130mm stems, i always flipped them. Always thought"more aero" i often asked myself why bike shops assemble them reversed O.o
Hey, Oz! do you have any advice on cutting down a Canyon steerer tube?
As you know they use the Acros headset so the compression comes from under the stem rather than the standard headset/topcap pulling the steerer up from above. My issue is that with the standard headset there is a decent tolerance of a mm or so but with there being no 'pull' from a top cap on a Canyon headset then any spacers above the stem would have to be perfectly flush with the top of the steerer or else the spacer could rattle if the steerer is too long or the top cap won't fit back into the steerer if it's cut too short. Would you recommend just adding a normal headset to negate the problem? Thanks in advance!
Im not all that familiar with the Acros preliad system but carbin spacers are available in 2,3,5 &10mm increments. Or perhaps try a soft plastic/rubber spacer that want rattle.
nice and useful. thanks from Italy,
10/10 video as always.
Good video and a good tip with the hose clamp. How is the Canyon disc going?
+glenny oc Canyon is going good...no problems at all. Hopefully do a 3,000km review vid on it after the Tour Down Under.
Dr. Oz, do you subscribe to the having a 5mm spacer on top vs no spacer? I know you just cut yours flush, so the question may be mute, but just curious because many bike manufacturers suggest a 5mm spacer at the top. Thanks...
Having steerer protrude above top of stem is to prevent crushing the cut end of the steerer. Ive never had a problem with flushing a steerer with stem but having 5mm above would be good practice...exept the pros, everything has to be slammed and aero 😂
@@stevenleffanue I just cut mine and using a 5mm spacer just in case there's ever a warranty issue; don't want to give the company a reason to brush me off. I suspect it would not be a problem, but the companies are covering their butts I'm sure. Yeah, the pros want it slammed, which is fine for them, they have sponsors that will replace stuff for them. Thanks for the reply.
There’s a reason why you loose guarantee if you’re cutting a tube like this
with no overstay.We have seen many failures due to false stem/fork montage.
Don’t risc your life just to have a cleaner look on your bike
Very helpful 👌 thanks alot
The cutting is a bit low so there is less surface for the stem to grab on. And you should use a longer steering plug. Thx for the video regardless
Steerer is 5mm above top of stem clamp.
Perfectly understandable!
Fuck it! Im just gonna use drop saw!
Hi, do you think it would be suitable for cutting 24 tpi?
Yes , just go slower
@@stevenleffanue Thank you so much. Your videos are very helpful.
Reupload ?
If you happen to cut a little short you always have the option (very ugly) to flip your stem and gain back a few mm
Good advice before you cut the steerer. Check for comfort
Is it normal for a carbon fork steerer to chaf when installing a stem?
What do you mean by "chaf" Gunther?
@@stevenleffanue scraped
Scraped on the steerer from inside the head tube?
@@stevenleffanue outside, i noticed some flaking after i set the stem for marking to set the cutting, i am worried thatbi might affect the integrity of the fork steerer
If the flaking is clear to light grey in colour its ok,it will be some outer epoxy but if the mark on the steerer is deep it would be wise to take the fork to a carbon repair specialist for advice.
Nice
don't you want the steerer tube to be at least flush to the top of the stem clamp ?
A couple of mm less is fine as long as it want be affected by the stems clamping force.
oz cycle
But extra steered tube above the stem clamp isn't an issue either?
If you know where your stem needs to be,theres no point having extra steerer above the stem line other than resale value.
Can i cut the carbon with a 24 TPI saw? Thanks
no
@Aero Dynamix Yes, only cut carbon with a carbon specific blade or else fibers will be pulled and frayed using a blade meant for wood or metal.
Can you just put some super glue instead of that nail polish?
Possibly but nail polish is very similar to the epoxy used to make prepreg.
I thought I saw that video.
+Rawsan Mati Yes. I forgot a detail so uploaded modified version. :)
oz cycle I will rewatch then. Thanks for your reply mate.
You should never cut a steerer tube lower than where the top bolt of the stem clamps. You are offering terrible advice to people that may not know any better. you should take this video down before someone gets hurt.