my OCD got the best of me and I drained and filled my P7B 22 times until it was pure distilled water coming out. then filled with pure coolant and used a glycol refractometer to ensure it was a proper mixture. this video just saved me about 2 months time in the future lol thx WJ
Has anybody else noticed as with everything else parts are much cheaper made and lower quality than they were when assembled at St. Thomas? For example - I purchased 4 new door moldings from Ford. They’re noticeably cheaper plastic and flimsier than the original ones that were coming off the car from factory. I even noticed the adhesive strip isn’t the same as the one they used back in 2011 that was way better. I guess this is just another quality control issue since they now make this stuff at lower quality assembly plants?
@@WJHandyDad What’s the worst part is that it comes from Ford! OEM products are just crap now sadly. When it wears out you won’t get the same standard of a replacement.
@@frogmd0 I don't think so... you would probably need the system closed and engine running... or you could disconnect the hoses from the intake manifold and flush the heater core manually
Yeah, I ALWAYS use distilled water too. Those minerals out of ordinary tap water is NOT a good idea to have circulating around in your cooling system...EVER !!!
yes, it really was - I was shocked... I thought you had to run the engine and was worried about the possible adverse consequences of pouring cold water into a warm to hot engine
@@WJHandyDad proves this car is the best because it last of simple vehicles built. When friends driving new cars waiting for parts 3 weeks or if its a cars wreaked its totaled because lack of parts sitting lot $100 per day. This doesn't help with my better half opinion of vehicle. LOL.
I will drain a radiator, but I wont drain a block if the vehicle wasnt over heating. Reason is because when engines get older and they have some rust in the block mingled with the water it actually helps to prevent blown head gaskets and leaks at the intake manifold, the rusty water in a cast iron block actually collect where the water jacket water meets your head gaskets and helps older engines
If your coolant is especially nasty, i'd recommend getting the prestone flush, removing the thermostat, then drive around a little bit. Afterwards, drain and take a water hose and fill while the car runs at the same time as it drains until it's all clear. Then refill with G-05 concentrate.
I checked the specs for the Peak Antifreeze you are using and it appears to be Glycol based. Crown Vic's and GM's require HOAT (Hybrid Organic Alcohol Technology) based coolants. The reason for this is that the Panther platform engines have a cast iron block, with an aluminum radiator, intake manifold and heads. HOAT avoids making a battery out of the dissimilar metals, which causes aluminum to migrate to the cast iron block. Over time, this will cause your radiator to wear out faster and your heads to start leaking. Remember we are trying to get 300,000+ miles out of our cars. This is a time to go with Mastercraft Gold or use Zerex G-05. I buy Zerex for around $18 per gallon and flush my vehicles every 50,000 miles.
@@CHVZAAA the "spec" is Motorcraft Gold. However since that coolant was developed they came out with Orange and then Yellow. The consensus is the Motorcraft Yellow (or equivalent) is the way to go now.
@WJHandyDad colour means nothing. It is just manufacturer's choice how they want to dye their coolant. For Crown Victoria it needs to be G-05 HOAT, as told already.
In the process of doing this now on an 01 mercury grand marquis… full radiator replacement.. my car calls for 15.9 quarts, but drained the system and only 6 came out? Messaged a car group I’m in and they said I’d have to loosen the drain plug on the engine block because the rest is in there… is that what you’re doing without having to loosen the engine block drain plug? And it just filters out from there? Let me know please, I’m stuck.
that's probably why you're having issues... I demonstrate in the video that "flushing" in the reservoir just runs to the bottom of the radiator and never reaches the engine. You need to flush through the thermostat like I did
What do you think if flushing entire system with tap water until it's crystal clear and then flush with distilled water and coolant mix? Tap water is really clean here but do it still leave some harmful minerals? Not going to driver with just tap water only flush.
I don't think the risk is worth the savings. You can distill your own water (which is what I do - I bought a distiller), or buy distilled water for roughly a buck a gallon. So spend $5 or $10 on water and know for a fact there are no minerals
How would you know how much distilled water is in the engine? If you're flushing wouldn't all of the water come out or is there some known "leftover" you can figure out. I was reading my manual and it says 60/40 and 40/60 are not satisfactory. Wondering if that's just a technicality?
I don't know for sure how much is still in there, that's why it's kind of a guessing game to get it back to as close to 50/50 as I can without sophisticated equipment
@@WJHandyDad Hey handy dad I have another question, I recently replaced two brake calipers and bled the brakes but apparently didn't get all the air out. Do I have to go back and bleed every caliper again or can this air be released from the brake master cylinder?
Quick question. I have a 02 lx sport and the drivers window control doesn’t move the drivers side passenger window, but the window control on the rear drivers side passenger window itself operates the window perfectly fine. What could it be?
@@WJHandyDadthanks for the video. I should’ve looked closer before I asked for help. Turns out the window switch works fine on both the drivers master switch and the passenger switch as well. The problem was at the bottom of the window, the window tint start to peel upwards just enough to prevent the window from rolling down further than an inch or so. But that inch up and down worked fine.
yes the original spec but the newest stuff is even better. I'll have to see if I can find it, but I believe there is a TSB saying to update all of them to the "yellow"
not a TSB but this explains how it's backward compatible and better... www.ford-trucks.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ford-motorcraft-yellow-coolant/
usually you run it with the radiator (or overflow) cap off. You can also pull the thermostat like I did and make sure it's full behind the thermostat. But the air should eventually work its way out of the system
my OCD got the best of me and I drained and filled my P7B 22 times until it was pure distilled water coming out. then filled with pure coolant and used a glycol refractometer to ensure it was a proper mixture. this video just saved me about 2 months time in the future lol thx WJ
That is an interesting way to do a coolant flush.
I fell upon it by accident and it worked amazingly well. Heat and A/C smell like brand new.
Has anybody else noticed as with everything else parts are much cheaper made and lower quality than they were when assembled at St. Thomas? For example - I purchased 4 new door moldings from Ford. They’re noticeably cheaper plastic and flimsier than the original ones that were coming off the car from factory. I even noticed the adhesive strip isn’t the same as the one they used back in 2011 that was way better. I guess this is just another quality control issue since they now make this stuff at lower quality assembly plants?
there are tons of cheaply made parts nowadays :(
@@WJHandyDad What’s the worst part is that it comes from Ford! OEM products are just crap now sadly. When it wears out you won’t get the same standard of a replacement.
yep it is very frustrating
Great video keep them coming 👍
Great video. But this procedure does not flush the heater core, does it?
it drains it, maybe some gets into it, maybe not. You can always pull the upper hose to it and pour distilled water into it if you think you need to
Would having the car "on" not running, with the heat turned to full blast, allow the water to flush through the core?
@@frogmd0 I don't think so... you would probably need the system closed and engine running... or you could disconnect the hoses from the intake manifold and flush the heater core manually
Yeah, I ALWAYS use distilled water too. Those minerals out of ordinary tap water is NOT a good idea to have circulating around in your cooling system...EVER !!!
yeah I cringed when one of my favorite channels showed a flush using a garden hose
minerals are the least of our worries in tap water lol
@@azizshavershian2065 I have a water distiller. It is downright disgusting what's left in it if I distill tap water.
Nice video..this looks easy.
yes, it really was - I was shocked... I thought you had to run the engine and was worried about the possible adverse consequences of pouring cold water into a warm to hot engine
@@WJHandyDad proves this car is the best because it last of simple vehicles built.
When friends driving new cars waiting for parts 3 weeks or if its a cars wreaked its totaled because lack of parts sitting lot $100 per day. This doesn't help with my better half opinion of vehicle. LOL.
my wife won't ride in or drive the Vic to save her life - don't know why so many women think they are such bad vehicles
I will drain a radiator, but I wont drain a block if the vehicle wasnt over heating. Reason is because when engines get older and they have some rust in the block mingled with the water it actually helps to prevent blown head gaskets and leaks at the intake manifold, the rusty water in a cast iron block actually collect where the water jacket water meets your head gaskets and helps older engines
interesting, I've never heard of that... now you have me curious. Thankfully both of mine are working flawlessly
If your coolant is especially nasty, i'd recommend getting the prestone flush, removing the thermostat, then drive around a little bit. Afterwards, drain and take a water hose and fill while the car runs at the same time as it drains until it's all clear. Then refill with G-05 concentrate.
other than that initial blast of rust it was clean but yes, if you have a vehicle that isn't cared for a good flush product can help
@@WJHandyDad Wouldn't unfilter water mess up something?
I am using distilled water - I do not recommend using anything less
I checked the specs for the Peak Antifreeze you are using and it appears to be Glycol based. Crown Vic's and GM's require HOAT (Hybrid Organic Alcohol Technology) based coolants. The reason for this is that the Panther platform engines have a cast iron block, with an aluminum radiator, intake manifold and heads. HOAT avoids making a battery out of the dissimilar metals, which causes aluminum to migrate to the cast iron block. Over time, this will cause your radiator to wear out faster and your heads to start leaking. Remember we are trying to get 300,000+ miles out of our cars. This is a time to go with Mastercraft Gold or use Zerex G-05. I buy Zerex for around $18 per gallon and flush my vehicles every 50,000 miles.
interesting... I have had zero issues running the "universal" coolants
Im about to do a coolant system update on mine which coolant should be there? Green orange?
@@CHVZAAA the "spec" is Motorcraft Gold. However since that coolant was developed they came out with Orange and then Yellow. The consensus is the Motorcraft Yellow (or equivalent) is the way to go now.
@WJHandyDad colour means nothing. It is just manufacturer's choice how they want to dye their coolant. For Crown Victoria it needs to be G-05 HOAT, as told already.
In the process of doing this now on an 01 mercury grand marquis… full radiator replacement.. my car calls for 15.9 quarts, but drained the system and only 6 came out? Messaged a car group I’m in and they said I’d have to loosen the drain plug on the engine block because the rest is in there… is that what you’re doing without having to loosen the engine block drain plug? And it just filters out from there? Let me know please, I’m stuck.
I didn’t remove the thermostat to flush through there, I only flush through the reservoir.
that's probably why you're having issues... I demonstrate in the video that "flushing" in the reservoir just runs to the bottom of the radiator and never reaches the engine. You need to flush through the thermostat like I did
What do you think if flushing entire system with tap water until it's crystal clear and then flush with distilled water and coolant mix? Tap water is really clean here but do it still leave some harmful minerals?
Not going to driver with just tap water only flush.
I don't think the risk is worth the savings. You can distill your own water (which is what I do - I bought a distiller), or buy distilled water for roughly a buck a gallon. So spend $5 or $10 on water and know for a fact there are no minerals
How would you know how much distilled water is in the engine? If you're flushing wouldn't all of the water come out or is there some known "leftover" you can figure out. I was reading my manual and it says 60/40 and 40/60 are not satisfactory. Wondering if that's just a technicality?
I don't know for sure how much is still in there, that's why it's kind of a guessing game to get it back to as close to 50/50 as I can without sophisticated equipment
I was also wondering if you think this would work on a Mercury Grand Marquis, they are the same vehicle after all?
@@thedude777OP should be basically the exact same engine
@@WJHandyDad Thanks for your replies 👍🏻
@@WJHandyDad Hey handy dad I have another question, I recently replaced two brake calipers and bled the brakes but apparently didn't get all the air out. Do I have to go back and bleed every caliper again or can this air be released from the brake master cylinder?
If you want to use Motorcraft then it's Yellow antifreeze to 2004-2011 models.
yes that is the factory "spec"
It is Motorcraft Gold.
@@emilpartanen8719 Google " Motorcraft® Engine Antifreeze/Coolants - Usage Chart " this will tell wich one you should use.
@@emilpartanen8719 Motorcraft yellow coolant replaces orange & green, those are not made anymore by Ford.
Quick search for " Motorcraft Engine Antifreeze/Coolants - Usage Chart "
Quick question. I have a 02 lx sport and the drivers window control doesn’t move the drivers side passenger window, but the window control on the rear drivers side passenger window itself operates the window perfectly fine. What could it be?
see if this video helps: th-cam.com/video/33UxAHTsw4s/w-d-xo.html
@@WJHandyDadthanks for the video. I should’ve looked closer before I asked for help. Turns out the window switch works fine on both the drivers master switch and the passenger switch as well. The problem was at the bottom of the window, the window tint start to peel upwards just enough to prevent the window from rolling down further than an inch or so. But that inch up and down worked fine.
glad you figured it out
Torque spec on the bolts for the thermostat housing?
about 18 ft-lb
@@WJHandyDad love you man, thanks!!!
I thought it was only motor raft gold or zerex g05
yes the original spec but the newest stuff is even better. I'll have to see if I can find it, but I believe there is a TSB saying to update all of them to the "yellow"
@@WJHandyDad oh okay. I just bought Zerex G05 per the manual recommendation. I'll have to look out for the TSB.
thank you for the great video again
not a TSB but this explains how it's backward compatible and better... www.ford-trucks.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ford-motorcraft-yellow-coolant/
@@WJHandyDad thank you for the article, I’ll read it today!
@WJHandyDad in practice article says Motorcraft Gold for Crown Victoria.
In the next time Using new Thermostat because Ford company update Thermostat it's better .
I don't know if mine is "updated" or not, but it's fairly new and low miles on it
Please show us how to burp the system, because my town car makes a gurgling noise when I turn it off.
usually you run it with the radiator (or overflow) cap off. You can also pull the thermostat like I did and make sure it's full behind the thermostat. But the air should eventually work its way out of the system