IRO Hack N Tap Install
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
- Iron Rock Offroad Hack N Tap
www.ironrockoffroad.com/10482....
Incase you break the output shaft seal on the older model tcase, the part number for the seal is: SKF 15047
Feel free to comment below with any questions, don't forget to subscribe, and like our page: ksuspension
Our website: www.ksuspensionlifts.com
Hoping this helps break down the process a little better for everyone!
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I've done this. 70.000 miles now and still going Great! Still had to shim for proper pinion angle as I had really bad vibes. 3.5 in s10 bastard packs. 31's Ride is good and no vibes. Very pleased! Nicely done 👍✌🇺🇸
Thank you so much for this video! The best resource on the internet for getting this done. IRO should be paying you if they aren't already.
I’ve done one of those on a 242 in the past. Pretty easy. Nice video. Great refresher
Great video! Made doing this a million times easier.
I just got done doing it today. Cutting it while the engine is running and in 1st gear is definitely the ticket and pretty much guarantees a nice flat, square cut.
The scary part was tapping it. It drilled out just fine, but maybe my tap was dull, but it was spooky as I was forcing the thing in there. Praise the LORD it didn't break.
I think I’m going to try this, thank you for the video
Great video! It's going to make the IRO Hack & Tap job much easier, only difference is mine is a 1990 Renix XJ with the 3 bolt tailshaft housing 231-J T-case. Done got the kit from IRO including the tailshaft housing and seal, rebuilt front XJ driveshaft and all needed tools.
Flatwoods Jeep Club sweet! Ya it won't be too difficult
Only that one extra step for the tail shaft seal to install
You should be good to go!
Got it done and everything is working great!
awesome im glad I found this video. Il be doing this in a few months with iron rocks kit. nice vid. One thing though you should have your axle yoke pointed straight towards the tcase now since you have a cv set up
Yes, the 13° we set the pinion angle at is pointing right at the tcase. With the sye installed it's perfect
Nice video. Only methodology I'd change is using a portaband to cut where I could instead of the cutoff wheel. But with the shaft spinning, I imagine the wheel works just fine on the shaft.
Thanks for posting it up!
Never even thought of a portaband!
Gotta do another one next week, we’ll give it a try!
William Huegli portaband works with the tcase out. Much easier to handle. But we usually just use a cut-off wheel every time since removing the tcase is extra work that’s not needed. Haven’t had any issues
awesome video. do you know if you can do this to a 95 yj?
Crane 2005 don't see why not, but I do know drive shaft lengths will be different. I dont know what shafts would fit that build
this is interesting, I never considered using a front shaft for the rear, thats genius. Ive built a frankenstine zj using an 8.25 out of a liberty, has bigger ujoint than the zj/xj but thats not a big deal.
i am about to fix the drive shaft problem on my 99 xj, is this method better than the other sye kits?(shorter shaft and ...)
btw amazing video .
+Sam Rezaei The Hack n Tap is a budget friendly way of doing an SYE. If you can afford a true SYE and replace the output shaft and tail end of the transfer case, I'd say go that route for sure, but there will be no issues with this setup.
For how many inches maximum does it work?
Would a driveshaft from the front take as much of a beating though?
Works well and w/our any major issues after some pretty crazy trails. I'd say it's a no brainier to run it. Works great!
A regular sye adds about 4 inches to the driveshaft length. How much does this add?
Christopher Spencer not sure. Never measured. But I doubt as much as a full sye
you make that lock very easy ,what type of bit are you using i try to drill my and did not work
Picapiedra 4x4 using titanium drill bits
Constant pressure and variable speed is your friend
KSuspension ok i just order cobalt bit led see what happen thanks, hooo in my T case 242 i dont have to cut it , just drill
Picapiedra 4x4 we have a 242 as well
Had to cut for the HnT Install
ok will cut the out put shaft and led see what happen i will need custom drive shaft put is ok thanks for the help
is the output shaft harder to drill and tap being hardend metal?
+airell47 It's not the easiest thing in the world, but as long as you have that small pilot hole drilled to get the 5/16" bit through, it'll be much easier
And as far as tapping it goes, just take your time and try to keep it straight. You'll get through :-)
Nice job on the install. Great instructions.
Question; will this Hack ’N’ Tap work on a 2WD Cherokee?
I don’t think so
Thank you for your response.
I have a ‘99 XJ 2WD Automatic with 5.5” lift. The driveshaft is pulled out of the transmission about 5/8” and now have pretty serious vibrations.
Thinking about a slip yoke adapter (like hack n tap) with a double cardan DS. Looking for recommendations.
Thoughts?
@@rah121760 honestly never done anything directly to a transmission like that. I’d recommend speaking to a good transmission shop and see what options are available. Wish I had a better answer for you
@@KSuspension
Thank you for your response.
I also reached out to Iron Off-road to get any recommendations.
I may reach out to transmission shop as you recommended.
Thanks again! Enjoy your videos.
What year XJ's have the front CV shaft?
84-01 model year XJ’s have this style front driveshaft
Did you end up running a custom shaft? Of is that just a stock front Shaft? And if so, after years how it is holding up?
Robert Garrett stock front shaft in the rear, and been holding up great!
Our front shaft actually took a dump about a month ago lol, rear one is still holding up fine.
Glad to hear this lol. I have a 97 and after 3” of lift I started getting driveline vibes. Was looking into this solution awhile ago and was curious about how to stock shaft was holding up. It’s my DD so reliability is a big thing for me lol
Mine has the three bolt tail shaft seal will this still work and do I need to cut the shaft because my driveshaft that I’m going to use seems like it will be perfect if I don’t cut the shaft and just put the yolk on there??
all Hack n Taps required hacking, hence the name. follow the measurement charts the kit comes with and you'll be golden!
do they have this for yj's? awesome video!
+matt hernandez I think the Hack N Tap will work for any application as long as the splines match up. I've never done it on a YJ, but I would email IRO and see what they say
Raffi Kassardjian that would be awesome. I very interested in that product!
Fantastic video. Very helpful!
What sort of height suspension lift would this let you run? With regards using the stock front shaft as opposed to an aftermarket one?
Many thanks,
Gaz.
I honestly haven't measured that far. I'd assume you'd be ok for about a 8" lift using this method with a stock front DS from another XJ.
I'm sitting on a 6.5" and have plenty of travel room
KSuspension you covered everything for me there thanks. I'm looking into a 6.5" lift kit currently. I didn't want to run a transfer case drop and compromise ground clearance, so a hack and tap for my 242 is the only route I think.
Again, many thanks.
Gaz
I just picked up a transfer case with one of these already on it. Is it worth me installing it?
of course
@@KSuspension great, thanks 😊
What kind of cut off wheel do you suggest ?
any decent wheel will work
Raffi so the yoke leaves a gap above the seal yes? I swapped my aw4 and new one is 23 spline and t case is from a liberty. I am not worried on the speedo cable as i have Nick's Renix Engine Monitor and it gives the speed after you set tire size and gear ratios. Thanks
Not sure what you mean by a gap. Shoot us a photo through messenger on our Facebook page if you can
@@KSuspension bottom of yoke by where the rubber boot was mounted. Seems i have a liberty 231 now need a 31 spline yoke.
No internet except my phone. What a pain
@@KSuspension alright well it seems I got the wrong transfer case I'll put it aside for a slip yoke Eliminator another day and go to the U Pull and Pay and get another T case this weekend or maybe even this week
Now i see how it all goes. The yoke does not touch the metal cover over the seal. I need cut the shaft so my yoke bottoms out on the shaft and still maintains a gap on the bottom. In the same way where you trimmed the yoke back.
Do you need to "seal" the output shaft somehow for this install?
yes, comes with the kit
Would this work on the 241 TC?
+Francisco Hernandez Not sure, I'd contact Iron Rock Offroad and ask them
BEFORE YOU TEST DRIVE !
Double check the emergency brake cable clears the new drive shaft!!
Your transfer case is different than mine I have a 231 what’s the difference for the install??
same install procedure, you just dont' need that seal
@@KSuspension I do need that seal that’s what the yolk rides on that bushing right there on the end where the seal is
@@dezertdestroyer7782 the red flange in the video is for older 242's, 231's don't usually use those. depends on the tail shaft housing you currently have, IRO's website describes the differences
If I have zero lift, will the front drive shaft be too long after H&T do you think?
Jack Mazza don't thing so.
I'll give it a shot! Thank you sir.
what type of drill and bits are you using? I've tried low speed and high speed drills and two types of bits. people keep telling me I have to take it to a shop cuz its hardened steel but obviously this vid proves I don't. I keep drilling and nothing is happening. help!!!
Drake Stevens using standard titanium bits from Lowe's
Slow and steady with an even amount of pressure
It takes a little while, but just mark your depth and go for it!
And no, you don't need a shop to do this job
KSuspension that's exactly what ive been doing and its not spitting any shavings out. I've sat there for awhile drilling and lubing and so on. so u think if I just keep at it? i figured something would have happened by now.
Drake Stevens sounds like you have a dull bit
Try drilling a pilot hole smaller than the main bit, then going at it with the larger bit
Titanium like u suggested. Someone told me try carbon tipped? And the bits were brand new but I'm sure it's dull now.
Drake Stevens can give another bit a shot
I've done the job with both styles
Doesn't require anything fancy
Did you change the angle of the axle with any shim or you were fine like that?
Exisity worked out just fine
No shims needed
KSuspension sweet! very motivated to get this done now thank you
What degree shims did you use after doing this
Didn’t need any. That’s the whole point of a double Cardin shaft
@@KSuspension i thought you angled the pinion on the diff up at the t case
@@gatordave6629 on another xj build we clocked the pinion 12° yes, not this one though
Could you do this on a 2wd aw4
Couldn’t say, Never done that.
@@KSuspension I wonder how some Jeep speed guys do it alot of them are 2wd
How much lift on the xj
This XJ had the RE Superflex 4.5"
+Raffi Kassardjian Thanks and great vid.
if you only use one bolt why do they give you 9 bolts!?
Alec Milton 1 for the new yoke, 4 for the driveshaft
And 4 for your crossmember
hey! that looks like my 01 xj! minus the stickers and flares!
+islh That's awesome!! This was an 01 we installed the Hack n Tap on :-)
+Raffi Kassardjian you may have helped change the oil on it when you were working at Jiffy Lube
+islh That was many many moons ago lol
+Raffi Kassardjian yea, but I still have the jeep 😊
+islh That's awesome!!
3/8x16 grade 8 bolt torque should be 45 FT/LB however, NOT 30!
Will this fit my np249j in my 1995 jeep grand cherokee
IMAKE GHETTOVIDEOS honestly have no idea
I've never tried
Email IRO, I'm sure they could tell you for sure
Looks like you need to shim your rear axle up quite a bit now
Why do you say that?
Everything is fine as it sits
+Raffi Kassardjian you want your pinion to be in line with the drive shaft when you run a double cardin rear shaft. About 1 degree down is ideal. The pinion rolls up with acceleration so it's best set a degree or so lower than that actual driveshaft.
On my personal rig the pinion is set to a 13* angle, the jeep that is pictured in this video has 2* shims installed and working properly.
Every application requires a different pinion angle I do agree
+Raffi Kassardjian very true! every application is different.
+Raffi Kassardjian on my Jeep I actually had to shim my Pinon down 1.5degrees. I'm running shackle relocation brackets and lift shackles so that essentially a acts the same as a shim and will point the pinion up further. I've never seen anyone else shim they're pinion down on a jeep lol
Hack and Tap looks like a great product, but oh goodness...using a double cardan driveshaft with a pinion angle like that is not a true all good. With a double cardan setup you need to have the pinion angle pointing directly at the output shaft of the transfer case or transmission. Otherwise you’ll get driveline vibration. A normal setup without a double cardan shaft is the opposite. You want the planes of the pinion and the output shaft as parallel as possible.
Ryan Vincent you’re not wrong
We set ours up for our specific build type
Everyone is different
Hey, to each his own then. How did the front driveshaft length compare to the rear driveshaft?
Ryan Vincent i don’t remember the difference in length anymore
I think I still have the custom shaft we were running so I can measure it out
But using the front for the rear has been perfect so far on/off road
Neat. Well I'm glad it worked out for you guys.
I know its more work, but I would pull the case out and do it on a bench, much easier on you back, guess I'm getting old
We have a lift now lol, easier in the air
is this work on Np242 ??
Cherokee XJ this was done on a NP231, but same concept for an NP242
I laughed my ass off at the torque it to 30ft lbs lol didnt even turn torqu
e wrench just immediately clicks it's all good I work at a tire shop and always get people asking me what the torque specs are or aren't you gonna put a torque wrench on them lug nuts I'm like I guess if ypu wanna see me do it I'll do it for ya click click click click not a single nut turns
For a 100 dollars more you could just get a sye
Average cost for full SYE is $250+
Hack n Tap is less than $100
Plus the additional work involved that a majority of people are afraid to do because you must split the case, so most of the time you have to take to a shop to have done and pay labor, so ends up costing more than just $100 more, even just for parts
Not saying an SYE is bad by any means, would rather do that 100%, but it’s just not $100 more
Okay if you do it yourself not much more than 100 dollars at least for a cheaper one do.most hack and tap kits come with the tap? And how well do they perform compared to a sye
@@gatordave6629 they should come with it, and honestly, they have been performing rather well tbh. Again, we do recommend a full SYE, but on a budget, this works great and you can run a stock shaft so no special part orders are needed.
@@KSuspension i guess I'm not fully educated on the subject I was under the impression that when you eliminated the slip yoke the purpose was to put a double cardin shaft in if you just leave the stock shaft what was the purpose
@@gatordave6629 by stock shaft, I meant stock front shaft whic his the double cardin setup. not a stock slip yoke shaft which you are removing, sam as what's in the video
That is idiotic, it wouldn't last a week if you didn't go offroad
Brian Cossey what wouldn’t last?