I run the stock D30 and D35 in my 4.0 TJ for 17 years and switch the D35 inners for the Super 35 kit 3 years ago. This means that my axles (as the Jeep) are 20 years old now. I Started with 29" tires, went to 31" - then 32" - then 33" and the last 5 years I run 35" (BFG KO2's) So I even turned 35" with the stock axle for 2 years when I changed to the Super 35 instead of a D44 . . The D30 never had issues and I never had the feeling it couldn't keep up. It never let me down and felt solide. So why don't I get a D44 you might ask? Well for 2 reasons, 1st: Over here in the Netherlands you simply won't find a used D44 from a TJ and if there is one available, it's sold for gold within the first 30 seconds. So you learn to love the D35. I recently upgraded the D35 with a Super 35 kit and I only use a front locker. It works awesome. There are a lot of bullshit stories about the D35 and YES , It's not a very strong axle. Therefore, In my opinion, Jeep should have equipped every 4.0 with a D44 from factory and leave the D35 with 4.55 gearing for the 2.5 and 2.4 liter engines. However, the D35 is an okay axle that will get you out of many sticky situations as long as you watch your right foot. The D35 becomes awesome after you install the super 35 kit. I even prefer a D35 with a Super 35 kit over a stock D44 because they are as strong and have no problem turning a 35" plus the D35 pumpkin is a few inches narrower (don't know how to say that in English) it simply has much more clearance than a D44, that's the second reason why I still run my D35
We are running a dana 30 in our 2014 JKU trussed and sleeved with ARB air locker and Yukon 4:88 gears and Yukon chromemoly 27 spline axle shafts. With 37in Millestar tires and Dirty life beadlock wheels we wheel it pretty hard and so far so good. I agree with you the Dana 30 is a good axle.
I am running 35s on my 16’ JKU.. My D30 is not trussed or sleeved and I don’t have lockers. Am I in trouble if I do some moderate wheeling? I have owned my jeep for about six months and I wheel like not crazy but pretty hard I think.
@@sector783 we know a lot of people with Dana 30's running 35 wheeling hard with no issues. I have seen one Dana 30 axle housing break when running 35s but alot of people are doing what you are with no issues.
@@DirtRoadJourney 🤙 Cool. Thanks man for taking the time to give me good info. I was a little stressed about it honestly. And I’m brand new to this so thank you for that.
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU. -Gussetted -Sleeved -4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great) -Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears) -aftermarket wheel bearings -aftermarket ball joints -aftermarket bigger brake kit -NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30) Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal. My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s. I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
Great video! I hope you publish many more. Strong weak doesn't really matter. They've been making them almost 30 years and even today on JL's and JK's you'll definitely find Dana 30s, even 2001 WJs have Dana 30s. Aftermarket support is strong. Take a look at IRO they've got entire front ends pre-built and you just buy them and install it
I agree I’ve ran my 30 locked for years on 35’s…5:13 gears Spartan locker…no problems….rock crawling…hill climbing…off camber stuff..never had an issue…when I say rock crawling like John Bull trail stuff …out west…
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU. -Gussetted -Sleeved -4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great) -Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears) -aftermarket wheel bearings -aftermarket ball joints -aftermarket bigger brake kit -NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30) Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal. My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s. I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
This video was exactly what I wanted to hear. I have a JKU Sahara. Ox air locker in the rear, Eaton E-locker in the front Dana 30. 456 G2 gears and Chromoly front axle shafts. Teraflex ball joints on there as well. I roll with 34 inch by 10.5 wide Nitto tires on a 4 inch lift. I am always told that my Dana 30 isn't going to do the job long term; as such, I baby it off road because I know that to replace the front axle with gears and locker is like $4-6k... if I buy a new axle and not one out of a junk yard. I don't want to spend that right now. I'm gonna keep rocking my Dana 30 and I hope it continues to last me.
Im going up to 37s on my wifes jku with dana 30s and 4:56 gears. I look at it like this. The dana 30 has the same EVERYTHING as a dana 44, the only difference is the size of the ring and pinion. The axles are the same size, spline same size, axle tubing both 3/8s wall thickness. The only thing that changes is the size of the gear ring and pinion, that is it. Dont off road like a idiot and jump the front end or bounce it off rocks and you will be fine. Also to replace a stock axle shaft is like 100 bucks and a fast job if you know what your doing, the wheel bearing is like 50 bucks. So even if you break one you are out 150 you buy the upgraded axle your looking at a grand. Ring and pinion set is like 150, the guy i go to 450 for labor. Even if i break a ring gear every year it will take 8 years to add up to a 44 drop in. And i doubt i will even break one every years let alone ever. And yes we go off road, in fact next year we are planning on a trip to moab. The guy that dose my gears has worked on diffs for 45 years and has been off roading everywear. Told me the #1 thing that breaks things is a bad driver, just dont be heavy footed and know when to back off. Told me he ran 44x15.50s on a 30 for over 10 years and took it through everything, and never broke anything on it in over 10 years. He owns his own shop and only works on diffs. I trust his knowledge.
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells Dude, I’m stoked on your comment and all the good info you gave. I bought a 2016 JKU Sport last summer. When I bought it, it already had a 4” Taraflex lift on 35” MT’s. I did not want to spend the extra $5-6k for the Rubi but I was concerned about the Dana 30 on my Sport. I off-road quite a bit here in Utah and I have gone plenty of times on some relatively challenging trails. Maybe I have been lucky, but I have been completely fine open diff. No complaints.. I may Truss the from Axel but not sure if I need to.
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU. -Gussetted -Sleeved -4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great) -Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears) -aftermarket wheel bearings -aftermarket ball joints -aftermarket bigger brake kit -NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30) Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal. My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s. I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
I have a 2013 Jku with a dana 30 and 37in tires. I'm about to swap a hemi in it. I'll never go off road with it so I'm wondering... do I need to be worried about upgrading to a better axel?
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU. -Gussetted -Sleeved -4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great) -Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears) -aftermarket wheel bearings -aftermarket ball joints -aftermarket bigger brake kit -NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30) Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal. My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s. I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion.
Yes. It makes no sense trying to get over a rock if you dont have to. If there is an easier line I'd take it too because well for me its all about getting to the destination. (Top of a mountain, secluded river area, etc...) Pride does break stuff on jeeps. I'm sleeving, trussing, aussie locking, and gusseting my JKs front dana 30. I hope to hear that your rig has held up.
I am running 35” MT’s on my 16’ JKU Sport - stock D 30/44 axels with no HD ball joints, gussets or sleeves. It is on a 3 inch lift with Taraflex springs and the shocks are stock. My question is, how worried should I be about the possibility of breaking something with the way it is currently set up? I know it depends on the level of trail difficulty, but In the six months I have had it, I have done some pretty moderate trails here in Utah and have had no issues. Meaning, no hardcore bouncing off rocks or anything like that. But I do often hit 4 Lo to get up moderately steep switchbacks with moderate rock gardens, but again, not crawling Rubicon trail or extreme Moab.. Am I OK continuing to do moderate wheeling with the way it is currently set up? What are some of my key limitations? Trailwise? Thanks so much! 🤙
For the most part if you run and open Diff it’ll probably last you forever. If you do decide to run some sort of locker just stay conscious when the locker is switched on of how much you use the gas pedal. lockers are Dana 30s worst enemies
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU. -Gussetted -Sleeved -4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great) -Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears) -aftermarket wheel bearings -aftermarket ball joints -aftermarket bigger brake kit -NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30) Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal. My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s. I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
I have an 87 YJ with the 30 and 35, I've chose to build these axles and have all the stuff including trusses...where can I find the strengthening pieces for the C's for the Dana 30? Or would I have to fab those? I'm not a fab guy so purchasing these and having them welded on would be more practical in my case. As for the 35, the internet hates it, but I know guys in YJ groups who are running super 35's for 10 plus years with no problems even rock crawling. Axle tubes are welded, trussing added, chromo axles, lockers & gears and nodular iron covers all on the bolt in style not the c-clip. I can't tell you how many countless threads I've read where guys got a Jeep with a D35 did nothing to it or tossed in a locker converted the vehicle to a SBC or LS and then took it out there and hammered the shit out of it and wondered why it broke and at the same time jumped on this hater bandwagon without taking any other steps to strengthen it. Then there are those who built one with industry leading parts and destroyed it...But look how they drove it and was their work quality on point...prep and build will very from person to person along with corner cutting to get back out there. I'm not claiming the 35 is this war horse of an axle but it can be built to do rock crawling with quality parts, prep & installation, driving skill. You really have to start looking at the owner/ builder /driver at some point because some of these guys that destroyed super 35's also destroyed ton axles, yet didn't run to the net to shit on the 1 ton of choice ...point is there are all sorts of variables at play and no matter what, if its man made, man will break it. No matter what you have the name of the game is to have fun and be safe, know the limitations of your vehicle and after an afternoon of some adult beverages with friends, don't send it, because ur gonna break it :D have fun guys.
The D30 in my RAM has been absolutely abused for 30 years, and I mean abused like no fks given, and it's still going. I think the problem comes with you use *much* larger tires.
I beat the shit out of my tj on 35’s. Stock rear shafts, rcv front shafts on a Dana 44/30 and front/rear lockers. Never had a problem and doubt I ever will
@@RubiKidd06 the problem is the factory design. With the C clips, any axle shaft that breaks will just walk out of the tubes. To me, that’s the biggest issue.
The goal of every manufacturer was, and stil is, to push out as many units (Jeeps) as possible (business = business) and back in the day they had a shit load of D35 axles in stock, they even bolted the D35 under the 4.0 6 cilinder. In my opinion every Jeep with the 4.0 should have come with a D44 from factory, period. The D35 should have been a standard axle for the 4 cil engines. That said . . . Most people use their Jeep to commute, get groceries and do some mild off roading, Jeep off course knew this so they used the D35 as a standard because it was more then sufficient enough for that. People who use their Jeeps mainly for off roading, well they opted for the D44 or they upgrade their Jeeps to a 14 bolt/Ford 9" so they sold their new D35 and buy a good used strong axle with the money they got from the D35. I still run my D35 (super kit) for 2 reasons. 1: It's hard to find a used D44 in the Netherlands for under 1500 Euro's. 2: The D35 pumpkin leaves a lot of ground clearance where the D44 does not. To match the clearance under the diff of a D44 with the clearance I have under the diff of my D35 on 33"tires, I have to go to 35" tires. So my reasoning is that when I would bolt under a D44, I have to go bigger than 35" tires to gain ground clearance over my D35 on 33" tires. Hope this makes sense 😉
nothing bad about the D30. sure do not run 40's or larger tires. keep your foot off the skinny pedel. and don't be a fool and the D30 will last decades of wheeling time. i have well over 200K on my cj-7. sure the 30 super axle shafts, and a arb in there spinning 4.10 gears turning 35 inch muders. the 258 has been rebuilt, the oil rings in number six like to fail. heck i tend to run part of the con in rear wheel drive, so my amc 20 has held up very good also, and it has a detroit. neither axle will survive if you like to bounce, but even the military 2 1/2 ton axles have broken by fools bouncing there jeeps. but yes if i had $10,grand just laying around i would get a front and rear dynatrac D60's. and go up to 37's, maybe. but not 40's. but to have any axle survive it is how you treat your jeep. be a fool and pay the price. drive right and keep money in your pocket.
Good comment, your price is off though on axles. Front axle is going to be close to 10k most likely more and back axle around 6 as of first part of 2023. I might even low on these numbers lol.
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I run the stock D30 and D35 in my 4.0 TJ for 17 years and switch the D35 inners for the Super 35 kit 3 years ago. This means that my axles (as the Jeep) are 20 years old now. I Started with 29" tires, went to 31" - then 32" - then 33" and the last 5 years I run 35" (BFG KO2's) So I even turned 35" with the stock axle for 2 years when I changed to the Super 35 instead of a D44 . . The D30 never had issues and I never had the feeling it couldn't keep up. It never let me down and felt solide. So why don't I get a D44 you might ask? Well for 2 reasons, 1st: Over here in the Netherlands you simply won't find a used D44 from a TJ and if there is one available, it's sold for gold within the first 30 seconds.
So you learn to love the D35. I recently upgraded the D35 with a Super 35 kit and I only use a front locker. It works awesome. There are a lot of bullshit stories about the D35 and YES , It's not a very strong axle. Therefore, In my opinion, Jeep should have equipped every 4.0 with a D44 from factory and leave the D35 with 4.55 gearing for the 2.5 and 2.4 liter engines. However, the D35 is an okay axle that will get you out of many sticky situations as long as you watch your right foot. The D35 becomes awesome after you install the super 35 kit.
I even prefer a D35 with a Super 35 kit over a stock D44 because they are as strong and have no problem turning a 35" plus the D35 pumpkin is a few inches narrower (don't know how to say that in English) it simply has much more clearance than a D44, that's the second reason why I still run my D35
We are running a dana 30 in our 2014 JKU trussed and sleeved with ARB air locker and Yukon 4:88 gears and Yukon chromemoly 27 spline axle shafts. With 37in Millestar tires and Dirty life beadlock wheels we wheel it pretty hard and so far so good. I agree with you the Dana 30 is a good axle.
I am running 35s on my 16’ JKU.. My D30 is not trussed or sleeved and I don’t have lockers. Am I in trouble if I do some moderate wheeling? I have owned my jeep for about six months and I wheel like not crazy but pretty hard I think.
@@sector783 we know a lot of people with Dana 30's running 35 wheeling hard with no issues. I have seen one Dana 30 axle housing break when running 35s but alot of people are doing what you are with no issues.
@@DirtRoadJourney 🤙 Cool. Thanks man for taking the time to give me good info. I was a little stressed about it honestly. And I’m brand new to this so thank you for that.
@@sector783 no problem happy to help. Have fun on the trails.
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU.
-Gussetted
-Sleeved
-4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great)
-Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears)
-aftermarket wheel bearings
-aftermarket ball joints
-aftermarket bigger brake kit
-NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30)
Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal.
My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s.
I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
Great video! I hope you publish many more. Strong weak doesn't really matter. They've been making them almost 30 years and even today on JL's and JK's you'll definitely find Dana 30s, even 2001 WJs have Dana 30s. Aftermarket support is strong. Take a look at IRO they've got entire front ends pre-built and you just buy them and install it
We will be in the future. Appreciate the comment.
Nice,thanks
I agree I’ve ran my 30 locked for years on 35’s…5:13 gears Spartan locker…no problems….rock crawling…hill climbing…off camber stuff..never had an issue…when I say rock crawling like John Bull trail stuff …out west…
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU.
-Gussetted
-Sleeved
-4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great)
-Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears)
-aftermarket wheel bearings
-aftermarket ball joints
-aftermarket bigger brake kit
-NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30)
Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal.
My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s.
I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
This video was exactly what I wanted to hear. I have a JKU Sahara. Ox air locker in the rear, Eaton E-locker in the front Dana 30. 456 G2 gears and Chromoly front axle shafts. Teraflex ball joints on there as well. I roll with 34 inch by 10.5 wide Nitto tires on a 4 inch lift. I am always told that my Dana 30 isn't going to do the job long term; as such, I baby it off road because I know that to replace the front axle with gears and locker is like $4-6k... if I buy a new axle and not one out of a junk yard. I don't want to spend that right now. I'm gonna keep rocking my Dana 30 and I hope it continues to last me.
Im going up to 37s on my wifes jku with dana 30s and 4:56 gears. I look at it like this. The dana 30 has the same EVERYTHING as a dana 44, the only difference is the size of the ring and pinion. The axles are the same size, spline same size, axle tubing both 3/8s wall thickness. The only thing that changes is the size of the gear ring and pinion, that is it. Dont off road like a idiot and jump the front end or bounce it off rocks and you will be fine.
Also to replace a stock axle shaft is like 100 bucks and a fast job if you know what your doing, the wheel bearing is like 50 bucks. So even if you break one you are out 150 you buy the upgraded axle your looking at a grand. Ring and pinion set is like 150, the guy i go to 450 for labor. Even if i break a ring gear every year it will take 8 years to add up to a 44 drop in. And i doubt i will even break one every years let alone ever.
And yes we go off road, in fact next year we are planning on a trip to moab. The guy that dose my gears has worked on diffs for 45 years and has been off roading everywear. Told me the #1 thing that breaks things is a bad driver, just dont be heavy footed and know when to back off. Told me he ran 44x15.50s on a 30 for over 10 years and took it through everything, and never broke anything on it in over 10 years. He owns his own shop and only works on diffs. I trust his knowledge.
This is Harley check out our newer videos were we actually cover these things with Rubikidd Darian now actually owns the Sahara.
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells Dude, I’m stoked on your comment and all the good info you gave. I bought a 2016 JKU Sport last summer. When I bought it, it already had a 4” Taraflex lift
on 35” MT’s. I did not want to spend the extra $5-6k for the Rubi but I was concerned about the Dana 30 on my Sport. I off-road quite a bit here in Utah and I have gone plenty of times on some relatively challenging trails. Maybe I have been lucky, but I have been completely fine open diff. No complaints.. I may Truss the from Axel but not sure if I need to.
@Sector 7 yes sir to many people act like the are made of glass.
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU.
-Gussetted
-Sleeved
-4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great)
-Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears)
-aftermarket wheel bearings
-aftermarket ball joints
-aftermarket bigger brake kit
-NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30)
Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal.
My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s.
I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
I have a 2013 Jku with a dana 30 and 37in tires. I'm about to swap a hemi in it. I'll never go off road with it so I'm wondering... do I need to be worried about upgrading to a better axel?
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU.
-Gussetted
-Sleeved
-4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great)
-Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears)
-aftermarket wheel bearings
-aftermarket ball joints
-aftermarket bigger brake kit
-NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30)
Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal.
My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s.
I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion.
Yes. It makes no sense trying to get over a rock if you dont have to. If there is an easier line I'd take it too because well for me its all about getting to the destination. (Top of a mountain, secluded river area, etc...) Pride does break stuff on jeeps. I'm sleeving, trussing, aussie locking, and gusseting my JKs front dana 30. I hope to hear that your rig has held up.
@@xXDanielSilva559Xx it has! So far so good on this Dana 30. I daily drive it on 40s and it's been a joy. I'm very very easy on it off road though
I have the HP D30 from a 1999 XJ. I paid like a $100 for it.
👍
I am running 35” MT’s on my 16’ JKU Sport - stock D 30/44 axels with no HD ball joints, gussets or sleeves. It is on a 3 inch lift with Taraflex springs and the shocks are stock. My question is, how worried should I be about the possibility of breaking something with the way it is currently set up? I know it depends on the level of trail difficulty, but In the six months I have had it, I have done some pretty moderate trails here in Utah and have had no issues. Meaning, no hardcore bouncing off rocks or anything like that. But I do often hit 4 Lo to get up moderately steep switchbacks with moderate rock gardens, but again, not crawling Rubicon trail or extreme Moab.. Am I OK continuing to do moderate wheeling with the way it is currently set up? What are some of my key limitations? Trailwise?
Thanks so much! 🤙
For the most part if you run and open Diff it’ll probably last you forever. If you do decide to run some sort of locker just stay conscious when the locker is switched on of how much you use the gas pedal. lockers are Dana 30s worst enemies
@@joerouth6255 Hi there, thank you so much for the reply. Really appreciate it!!
I'm on 40s and a Dana 30HP on my JKU.
-Gussetted
-Sleeved
-4.56 (pentastar 3.6 has been great)
-Stock shafts (I'd rather those break than my gears)
-aftermarket wheel bearings
-aftermarket ball joints
-aftermarket bigger brake kit
-NOT LOCKED (I don't think it's a good idea in a Dana 30)
Only thing that's gone to shit is the driver side axle seal.
My Dana 30 could care less that I'm on 40s.
I'm very easy on the accelerator & choose easy lines. If I can't get over a rock I go around it. Pride is what kills these Dana 30s in my opinion
I have an 87 YJ with the 30 and 35, I've chose to build these axles and have all the stuff including trusses...where can I find the strengthening pieces for the C's for the Dana 30? Or would I have to fab those? I'm not a fab guy so purchasing these and having them welded on would be more practical in my case.
As for the 35, the internet hates it, but I know guys in YJ groups who are running super 35's for 10 plus years with no problems even rock crawling. Axle tubes are welded, trussing added, chromo axles, lockers & gears and nodular iron covers all on the bolt in style not the c-clip.
I can't tell you how many countless threads I've read where guys got a Jeep with a D35 did nothing to it or tossed in a locker converted the vehicle to a SBC or LS and then took it out there and hammered the shit out of it and wondered why it broke and at the same time jumped on this hater bandwagon without taking any other steps to strengthen it.
Then there are those who built one with industry leading parts and destroyed it...But look how they drove it and was their work quality on point...prep and build will very from person to person along with corner cutting to get back out there.
I'm not claiming the 35 is this war horse of an axle but it can be built to do rock crawling with quality parts, prep & installation, driving skill.
You really have to start looking at the owner/ builder /driver at some point because some of these guys that destroyed super 35's also destroyed ton axles, yet didn't run to the net to shit on the 1 ton of choice ...point is there are all sorts of variables at play and no matter what, if its man made, man will break it.
No matter what you have the name of the game is to have fun and be safe, know the limitations of your vehicle and after an afternoon of some adult beverages with friends, don't send it, because ur gonna break it :D have fun guys.
the super 35 is awesome
Inner C’s are Artec. Amazon, EBay and Quadratec. Quadratec is where I got them from.
With those seals on the outside ive seen guys diffs over heat. Some run fine though. Hit or miss with those it seems like.
Is that 4 link setup on the front axle
Maby people were talking about true d44s (fs bronco , wagoner, squarbodys,) not the tj rubicon 44 hybrid thing.
Has anyone tried the 8.25 axle ? How is it compared to the Dana 35 and the Dana 44 ,what’s the pros and cons
Did you replace inner or outer c's.
All of them😂
The D30 in my RAM has been absolutely abused for 30 years, and I mean abused like no fks given, and it's still going. I think the problem comes with you use *much* larger tires.
I’ve seen D30’s get the living crap beaten out of them and just won’t quit. I’d say it proven itself over the years
When you say upgraded C's does that mean there are gussets on them?
Yes, just gussets.
What size fuse breaker do you use withe locker.
I beat the shit out of my tj on 35’s. Stock rear shafts, rcv front shafts on a Dana 44/30 and front/rear lockers. Never had a problem and doubt I ever will
Nice
What steering?
Synergy
What type of locker do you have.
Eaton E locker. Both ends. He’s going to do a more in-depth review of it soon.
Don’t run 40s on it they don’t hold up well even when fully built 😂 definitely not speaking from personal experience or am I
If they really were shitty axles then why would Jeep put them almost every axle.
Yah, we kinda think some people like running things down and it catches on without any facts backing it up.👍
The D35 is a fairly trashy axle.
I can’t say one way or not. I’ve heard their pretty horrible and that’s why I have a 44 in the back and Harley has a Hybrid 44 in his.
@@RubiKidd06 the problem is the factory design. With the C clips, any axle shaft that breaks will just walk out of the tubes. To me, that’s the biggest issue.
The goal of every manufacturer was, and stil is, to push out as many units (Jeeps) as possible (business = business) and back in the day they had a shit load of D35 axles in stock, they even bolted the D35 under the 4.0 6 cilinder. In my opinion every Jeep with the 4.0 should have come with a D44 from factory, period. The D35 should have been a standard axle for the 4 cil engines. That said . . .
Most people use their Jeep to commute, get groceries and do some mild off roading, Jeep off course knew this so they used the D35 as a standard because it was more then sufficient enough for that. People who use their Jeeps mainly for off roading, well they opted for the D44 or they upgrade their Jeeps to a 14 bolt/Ford 9" so they sold their new D35 and buy a good used strong axle with the money they got from the D35. I still run my D35 (super kit) for 2 reasons.
1: It's hard to find a used D44 in the Netherlands for under 1500 Euro's. 2: The D35 pumpkin leaves a lot of ground clearance where the D44 does not. To match the clearance under the diff of a D44 with the clearance I have under the diff of my D35 on 33"tires, I have to go to 35" tires. So my reasoning is that when I would bolt under a D44, I have to go bigger than 35" tires to gain ground clearance over my D35 on 33" tires. Hope this makes sense 😉
nothing bad about the D30. sure do not run 40's or larger tires. keep your foot off the skinny pedel. and don't be a fool and the D30 will last decades of wheeling time. i have well over 200K on my cj-7. sure the 30 super axle shafts, and a arb in there spinning 4.10 gears turning 35 inch muders. the 258 has been rebuilt, the oil rings in number six like to fail.
heck i tend to run part of the con in rear wheel drive, so my amc 20 has held up very good also, and it has a detroit.
neither axle will survive if you like to bounce, but even the military 2 1/2 ton axles have broken by fools bouncing there jeeps.
but yes if i had $10,grand just laying around i would get a front and rear dynatrac D60's. and go up to 37's, maybe. but not 40's.
but to have any axle survive it is how you treat your jeep. be a fool and pay the price. drive right and keep money in your pocket.
Good comment, your price is off though on axles. Front axle is going to be close to 10k most likely more and back axle around 6 as of first part of 2023. I might even low on these numbers lol.
Sup
Got 38s in 30s haven’t had an issue yet
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