I have two of these boxes. I replaced the large gauge wires in the box with silicone jacketed wire, replaced the tiny red wires that go in and out of the diodes with new wires with proper crimp ferules on them and then clipped off the solder ends on the small blue cables and put proper crimp ferules on those as well. Everything is much tighter now and has been working fine for over a year now. I bought them direct from Ecoworthy as they are cheaper there than from Amazon, probably spent about $30 on the wire and ferules to improve it. I have about 4kw of panels in one and 5kw in the other, no overheating, or problems. Each string is between 7 and 9 amps depending on the box, and around 90 volts. I have external disconnects as well as the keys to the box located by the boxes. Haven't had any moisture issues.
Just purchased the combiner box (four dc inputs). It looks like Eco-Worthy has addressed some of these issues: the door opens all the way now, the gasket is now on all four sides; the screws are now tight (still good idea to check). It is CE approved (Canada).
That's good to hear, I just purchased one 20 minutes before watching this video, They are on sale for $140 on Amazon now, It looks better built inside than most of the others that I have seen
@@recumbentrevolution6540 Same here you either buy the eco-worthy for best bang for the buck or you have to drop x3 for a really good one. In my case just trying to offset 1200 watts of PC use. So this box should do nicely versus having an octopus in backyard with branch connectors. Also great for those who have the room on their RV's
@@charlest7027 FYI update.. I never even used my Eco worthy Box, Mine had no upgrades , Did not trust it after watching many reviews saying the wires are poorly constructed. So I spent $250 on a nice one from Watts 24/7 Sometimes you get what you pay for, And I lost a 140 bucks, Held too long to return it
Great review. This is a great value if you can get past the bad points. I just paid the same for a Midnite Solar enclosure itself without any of the electronics. I agree on the code issues as well that any compressed connections should absolutely not be soldered. Enjoy your videos and would love to see more of your setup as time permits.
Another great video. I make no judgements on choices - just sharing that for code (in my jurisdiction) all items (box, connectors, breakers, diodes, surge protectors) must be UL or ETL and it doesn't look like anything about this is UL or ETL. (CE is not OK). I have 2 Midnite Solar (UL) combiner boxes which is why I know all this. A bare Midnite Solar combiner box with shut-off handle (UL) is about $200. Add in circuit breakers ($15) and surge protector ($80) and you're up to $300-400 range for UL to combine up to 6 strings. Also, a specific sticker with volts/amps is required on the outside of the box (for fireman) in my jurisdiction, witch was another few $ and I had to print (customize) the values myself.
This is such a problem everywhere, and I can't understand why, as most manufacturers specify what kind of cables and what internal design can be accepted by the terminals. It's not just the Chinese suppliers that get this wrong mind you.
I posted this in the forum, but figured I'd copy it here to maybe get more feedback: I'm contacting the manufacturer in China right now, I've seen these boxes advertised as 10, 12, 15 and 20 amp. I want to run 2x 100watt panels on each channel for 12.2amp max, but I can't seem to find the boxes with the bigger circuit breakers. I've also seen many reviews on Amazon that the internal wire is sized too small. There are a few that say the breakers overheat VERY easily if the box is in the sunlight, and a few that say their 'main' breaker was wired backwards, or was live on red instead of green. Have you guys noticed any of these issues? I'm currently watching HighTechLabs video above, and I've got a few new questions: 1) Why would you LOCK the box? Isn't part of the utility of this supposed to as an emergency shut off switch in the event of a fire? Do you HAVE to lock the box? Could you install a throw arm breaker switch on the side, or..? 2) Could you ADD a door gasket to the third side and seal it, or is this trash as an outdoor box? are the edges and corners welded shut, or are there holes at the folded corners? 3) OMG, those are fuse holders?? Didn't they used to make circuit breakers to put in those? I swear I tagged some low voltage circuit breakers to build out my own box some odd years ago. 4) My panels all have diodes built in to prevent current backflow. Can I just bypass these monstrous diodes? 5) WHY won't those breakers tighten down? Are they just that crappy that you can't apply that much force to them? 6) My application will need the box to handle ~73 amps. Will the components in this box handle that, or should I just go ahead and piece together my own box? No, I'm not paying $350 for a freaking 'name brand' (Midnight Solar) box. I'd rather spend the time building it out the way that I need it, rather than pay someone else to build a rubber stamped version. 7) That SAID, I'd be MORE than happy for any and all recommendations about other boxes or components. This is going on an RV, so it doesn't HAVE to be NEC compliant, but I know better than to cut too many corners as well. ;) Thanks for any help!
FYI, my box lasted about 18 months. Was just about to upgrade my panel diodes to schottky diodes and before I started I went and checked the "before" current with my clamp meter and noticed some of my panels actually weren't even doing anything. Traced the issue to the combiner box, where 4 of those 6 anti-backcharge diodes are nfg. I've ordered another 6 from Ali Express and that cost me about 90 bucks Canadian. Just a heads up for anyone looking into one of these.
That’s a decent deal on the breakers and holders... I would rip out all hat stuff and put it in a decent enclosure. I have a few with 4 gaskets, ... I also have one with a large disconnect in the cover,
I have been looking at eco-worthy complete solar power system kit and thought about looking for TH-cam videos about it thankfully I came across yours. Thank you for such a fine detailed review, I am not very knowledgeable about solar systems this large.
I have some SERIOUS WORRIES about Eco-Worthy, I recently brought a KIT which was an 8-panel 1360w total output kit, and working as a 24v system with a 3000w inverter, 4x50ah batteries to a 60amp charge controller. They supplied MC4 Y connectors and by the time all are wired up as 24v the final two cables result in amperage close to 40 amps, but the final Y connectors are only rated at 30amp 12AWG at 125 Celcius. I am pretty sure this would have resulted in a fire! But I may be wrong? The Kit is still available, but now with 2 x 100ah batteries. Customer service refuse to answer me and I am in the process of researching/buying a 4-string combiner rated at 15amp that I believe it should have had in the first place. All of the wiring diagrams do not show any fuses and combiner boxes, MCBs with only a vague mention, but surely a KIT should be a KIT and nothing missing to make it work and Eco-Worthy should answer tech requests!
You normally only have to use the clips on the breaker to unhook it. So you can take it out , terminate the wires and afterwards simply push it back in to position with the top hooked into the din rail and the clips will just latch into position securing it .
the clips aren't spring-loaded though, you have to get in there with a screwdriver and push them into place and what I was trying to say is with the wire in there you don't have access to pushing them back into place
The 0.4V diode drop is going to become 1V at full load. At full load that is 60W of heat to loose through the steel box. Stand it off from the wall to circulate air behind, but it is going to get hot..
When we forward biased the diodes with just 3A from a bench supply they jumped to .75V, so yes - very true they will loose quite a bit of power to heat. Too bad there isn't a power FET & accompanying turn on logic solution to combining panels without the diode drop loss.
Looks like I will be adding crimps to the wiring.. IP65 is water resistant I do like the box but I will be checking all the wiring and making adjustments.
This is the one I have in my shopping cart. I wanted to use this for my outside solar panel setup. Of course it would be in an enclosure. I was particularly looking for a video showing me how to go from the Combiner to the Controller? And how many 100 watts panels can be connected to a port without risking burnout?
Im an RVer and i would not use this in an RV installation especially if the wires come out that easily. The rattling and bumping would take those wires out of the sockets and next you know you have a small fire...
Tin on wires like that is so bad, it would be better to just have the copper directly in the clamps, or use the proper ferrules for it. Soldering them just makes a bad connection, that will cause problems later. :(
I'm no electrical engineer, or anything close, but even I know that you don't tin stranded wire that needs to be clamped in place. Even if you manage to get a tight connection, preventing the wire from being pulled out, the connection can heat up, and the solder can melts. When that happens, most, if not all of your clamping force is used to deform the wire, which is now no longer tight.
@@timderks5960 Not only that, solder isn't that "strong" (not sure if that is the right word), so it will slowly deform over time. You might get a good solid connection when you tighten the clamp, but afterwards the tin will deform to the new shape, and the clamp will get lose, and then the heat will set in, and then it just continue even faster. And on top of that, when tightening the clamp, the solder prevents the clamp to compress the cable end properly, and the tin keeps the wires as a cylinder, so the clamp only got a connection on two narrow points. It is so sad to see something like this on a "finished" product.
Yeah, I could tell when he tightened the screw, the tinned blue wire didn't smush and deform like it would have if it were stranded. The only problem I've EVER had with stranded is that after a month of high current use, the temperature changes can walk the setscrew out, so I always re-torque it afterwards. I've never tinned stranded wire in a box. On solid wire, I try to get a good bite into the conductor so that you can see the cut into the copper afterwards from the screw. Solder is so soft compared to copper that it would never bite right. You'd think they would know this, but it's a cheap amazon product instead of professional gear.
I would never use a fused breaker in an RV.. As most fuses are slow blow and rated for 10 second to 500 second delay...So unless the customer knows about Fuse Types. I would never use that thing...I use ABB Breakers. With Direct connections to them.. I even add Shunt trip breaker for added peace of mind...
The 63A breaker is too low IMHO for a 6 way combiner box. Not many solar panels have an Isc rating below 10A. I can only think of expensive top end SunPower ones.
I really don't like the current design of screw terminals. I have a better design where teeth would clamp over the wire, and add more of a bite onto the wire. Most cheap screw in wire terminals don't have that. I've even had a wire melt before because of a terminal that let the wire partially slip out.
Your panels have diodes built in already dude. To be honest you could of just built that yourself for what it does, it's just a trip box !! Just an immense over kill for a setup. Your charge controller! / gridtie inverter! "what ever you use" will have all you need to stop back voltage going into the panels when it's dark. Just like the bloking diodes in the panels. To be honest mate you have wasted your money! Get a refund. Pointless purchase!!!
I’m needing to get a combiner Box 📦 I have 4 Rich Solar Panels 100W 5.41A ea. I have 2 different inverter EASUN 3000W Hybrid 24v 110v & the other EASUN 5KVA 230v Hybrid 48v GWM for this inverter I got a SIEMENS Transformer MTO100A 220-480 x1 in & 110-240 out x2 any recommendations ?
@@HighTechLab i would think they are in use in all situations. That is what gives you the allowable 600- 1000vdc series connection. I would think this is why you can connect in parallel and not worry if a group of panels is shaded. Which also should not matter if you paralleled a 50 cell and a 72 cell. But you should only get the greater voltage or the panel that is performing the best. But as for power consumption, if it is in the circuit it will be burning power. No?
I am confused. I bought this box with lot of confidence .As I saw he was just pulling wires with minimum effort?? and not solders properly or lugged properly Now its too late to do the postmortem
Yes indeed but still a similar thing. I haven't seen many combiner boxes on the market with blocking diodes. I personally wouldn't bother.. Shouldn't get any back flow
@@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513 it's funny that nobody can give a perfect answer if blocking diodes are needed. it's 50/50, some say yes, others say it isn't needed. In the handbook of my panels (Trina) they say yes, they are needed...
Si lees y escuchas con atención el producto es una porqueria china , de mala calidad todo , riesgo de corto eléctrico con la caja tan chica y metálica.
@@davidcromapix9083 si tienes razón esta caja se puede aterrizar para minimizar el riesgo de corto eléctrico , la mejor opción sería montar estos elementos. En una caja de policarbonanato.
Give HighTechLab a break, John. HighTechLab is talking about a combiner box, not a Ferrari. It's not exactly the most exciting thing to talk about. HighTechLab provided us with an excellent, in depth review of this combiner box. Some TH-camrs barely highlight the features and then have the nerve to call it a review. I commend HighTechLab for the service he provides. Thank you HighTechLab--well done!
Had this for about four years. No leaks ( box is outside, well exposed to everything). No overheating issues also. 24 volt system. 80A + out
Solder?!?! Ugh what a bummer!! Why in the world would they do that.
Great review. Very useful.
I have two of these boxes. I replaced the large gauge wires in the box with silicone jacketed wire, replaced the tiny red wires that go in and out of the diodes with new wires with proper crimp ferules on them and then clipped off the solder ends on the small blue cables and put proper crimp ferules on those as well. Everything is much tighter now and has been working fine for over a year now. I bought them direct from Ecoworthy as they are cheaper there than from Amazon, probably spent about $30 on the wire and ferules to improve it. I have about 4kw of panels in one and 5kw in the other, no overheating, or problems. Each string is between 7 and 9 amps depending on the box, and around 90 volts. I have external disconnects as well as the keys to the box located by the boxes. Haven't had any moisture issues.
Just purchased the combiner box (four dc inputs). It looks like Eco-Worthy has addressed some of these issues: the door opens all the way now, the gasket is now on all four sides; the screws are now tight (still good idea to check). It is CE approved (Canada).
That's good to hear, I just purchased one 20 minutes before watching this video, They are on sale for $140 on Amazon now, It looks better built inside than most of the others that I have seen
@@recumbentrevolution6540 Same here you either buy the eco-worthy for best bang for the buck or you have to drop x3 for a really good one. In my case just trying to offset 1200 watts of PC use. So this box should do nicely versus having an octopus in backyard with branch connectors. Also great for those who have the room on their RV's
@@charlest7027 FYI update.. I never even used my Eco worthy Box, Mine had no upgrades , Did not trust it after watching many reviews saying the wires are poorly constructed. So I spent $250 on a nice one from Watts 24/7 Sometimes you get what you pay for, And I lost a 140 bucks, Held too long to return it
Great review. This is a great value if you can get past the bad points. I just paid the same for a Midnite Solar enclosure itself without any of the electronics. I agree on the code issues as well that any compressed connections should absolutely not be soldered. Enjoy your videos and would love to see more of your setup as time permits.
Another great video. I make no judgements on choices - just sharing that for code (in my jurisdiction) all items (box, connectors, breakers, diodes, surge protectors) must be UL or ETL and it doesn't look like anything about this is UL or ETL. (CE is not OK). I have 2 Midnite Solar (UL) combiner boxes which is why I know all this. A bare Midnite Solar combiner box with shut-off handle (UL) is about $200. Add in circuit breakers ($15) and surge protector ($80) and you're up to $300-400 range for UL to combine up to 6 strings. Also, a specific sticker with volts/amps is required on the outside of the box (for fireman) in my jurisdiction, witch was another few $ and I had to print (customize) the values myself.
I really appreciate you buying the chinese amazon stuff and pointing out it's not a direct drop in replacement for like a hoffman enclosure.
It's wrong to use a tinned wire in a clamp. The tin starts to flow under pressure increasing contact resistance . In the end it will burn out.
This is such a problem everywhere, and I can't understand why, as most manufacturers specify what kind of cables and what internal design can be accepted by the terminals. It's not just the Chinese suppliers that get this wrong mind you.
The surge protector is a lightening arrestor. You wont want to reset it and use it again after its done it's job.
I posted this in the forum, but figured I'd copy it here to maybe get more feedback:
I'm contacting the manufacturer in China right now, I've seen these boxes advertised as 10, 12, 15 and 20 amp. I want to run 2x 100watt panels on each channel for 12.2amp max, but I can't seem to find the boxes with the bigger circuit breakers. I've also seen many reviews on Amazon that the internal wire is sized too small. There are a few that say the breakers overheat VERY easily if the box is in the sunlight, and a few that say their 'main' breaker was wired backwards, or was live on red instead of green. Have you guys noticed any of these issues?
I'm currently watching HighTechLabs video above, and I've got a few new questions:
1) Why would you LOCK the box? Isn't part of the utility of this supposed to as an emergency shut off switch in the event of a fire? Do you HAVE to lock the box? Could you install a throw arm breaker switch on the side, or..?
2) Could you ADD a door gasket to the third side and seal it, or is this trash as an outdoor box? are the edges and corners welded shut, or are there holes at the folded corners?
3) OMG, those are fuse holders?? Didn't they used to make circuit breakers to put in those? I swear I tagged some low voltage circuit breakers to build out my own box some odd years ago.
4) My panels all have diodes built in to prevent current backflow. Can I just bypass these monstrous diodes?
5) WHY won't those breakers tighten down? Are they just that crappy that you can't apply that much force to them?
6) My application will need the box to handle ~73 amps. Will the components in this box handle that, or should I just go ahead and piece together my own box? No, I'm not paying $350 for a freaking 'name brand' (Midnight Solar) box. I'd rather spend the time building it out the way that I need it, rather than pay someone else to build a rubber stamped version.
7) That SAID, I'd be MORE than happy for any and all recommendations about other boxes or components. This is going on an RV, so it doesn't HAVE to be NEC compliant, but I know better than to cut too many corners as well. ;)
Thanks for any help!
FYI, my box lasted about 18 months. Was just about to upgrade my panel diodes to schottky diodes and before I started I went and checked the "before" current with my clamp meter and noticed some of my panels actually weren't even doing anything. Traced the issue to the combiner box, where 4 of those 6 anti-backcharge diodes are nfg. I've ordered another 6 from Ali Express and that cost me about 90 bucks Canadian. Just a heads up for anyone looking into one of these.
That’s a decent deal on the breakers and holders... I would rip out all hat stuff and put it in a decent enclosure.
I have a few with 4 gaskets, ... I also have one with a large disconnect in the cover,
I have been looking at eco-worthy complete solar power system kit and thought about looking for TH-cam videos about it thankfully I came across yours. Thank you for such a fine detailed review, I am not very knowledgeable about solar systems this large.
I have some SERIOUS WORRIES about Eco-Worthy, I recently brought a KIT which was an 8-panel 1360w total output kit, and working as a 24v system with a 3000w inverter, 4x50ah batteries to a 60amp charge controller. They supplied MC4 Y connectors and by the time all are wired up as 24v the final two cables result in amperage close to 40 amps, but the final Y connectors are only rated at 30amp 12AWG at 125 Celcius. I am pretty sure this would have resulted in a fire! But I may be wrong? The Kit is still available, but now with 2 x 100ah batteries. Customer service refuse to answer me and I am in the process of researching/buying a 4-string combiner rated at 15amp that I believe it should have had in the first place. All of the wiring diagrams do not show any fuses and combiner boxes, MCBs with only a vague mention, but surely a KIT should be a KIT and nothing missing to make it work and Eco-Worthy should answer tech requests!
The thin blue wires will be 4mm2 ( 37A clipped or 30A conduit) which is correct for MC4 connectors which are rate 30A max.
Thank you SO much for this review. I had one in my amazon shopping cart.
Wow like the great detail and electric knowledge that you used in your critique!!!!
You normally only have to use the clips on the breaker to unhook it. So you can take it out , terminate the wires and afterwards simply push it back in to position with the top hooked into the din rail and the clips will just latch into position securing it .
the clips aren't spring-loaded though, you have to get in there with a screwdriver and push them into place and what I was trying to say is with the wire in there you don't have access to pushing them back into place
HighTechLab oh ok that is annoying, then you are totally Wright.
Old video but who do you recommend for a combiner box?
You do know that solar pa els have diodes at the panel to leads junction as well.? More voltage drop...
I got two of them, and I am very happy I just had to upgrade the 2 pole breakers to 500vdc
The 0.4V diode drop is going to become 1V at full load. At full load that is 60W of heat to loose through the steel box. Stand it off from the wall to circulate air behind, but it is going to get hot..
When we forward biased the diodes with just 3A from a bench supply they jumped to .75V, so yes - very true they will loose quite a bit of power to heat. Too bad there isn't a power FET & accompanying turn on logic solution to combining panels without the diode drop loss.
Looks like I will be adding crimps to the wiring..
IP65 is water resistant
I do like the box but I will be checking all the wiring and making adjustments.
I bought one that can handle four in the box but it doesn't have the diod ,so you saying I should use of it without it ?
This is the one I have in my shopping cart. I wanted to use this for my outside solar panel setup. Of course it would be in an enclosure. I was particularly looking for a video showing me how to go from the Combiner to the Controller? And how many 100 watts panels can be connected to a port without risking burnout?
Thanks, very detailed and informative explanation with great quality video
Im an RVer and i would not use this in an RV installation especially if the wires come out that easily. The rattling and bumping would take those wires out of the sockets and next you know you have a small fire...
Tin on wires like that is so bad, it would be better to just have the copper directly in the clamps, or use the proper ferrules for it. Soldering them just makes a bad connection, that will cause problems later. :(
I'm no electrical engineer, or anything close, but even I know that you don't tin stranded wire that needs to be clamped in place. Even if you manage to get a tight connection, preventing the wire from being pulled out, the connection can heat up, and the solder can melts. When that happens, most, if not all of your clamping force is used to deform the wire, which is now no longer tight.
@@timderks5960 Not only that, solder isn't that "strong" (not sure if that is the right word), so it will slowly deform over time. You might get a good solid connection when you tighten the clamp, but afterwards the tin will deform to the new shape, and the clamp will get lose, and then the heat will set in, and then it just continue even faster. And on top of that, when tightening the clamp, the solder prevents the clamp to compress the cable end properly, and the tin keeps the wires as a cylinder, so the clamp only got a connection on two narrow points. It is so sad to see something like this on a "finished" product.
Yeah, I could tell when he tightened the screw, the tinned blue wire didn't smush and deform like it would have if it were stranded. The only problem I've EVER had with stranded is that after a month of high current use, the temperature changes can walk the setscrew out, so I always re-torque it afterwards. I've never tinned stranded wire in a box. On solid wire, I try to get a good bite into the conductor so that you can see the cut into the copper afterwards from the screw. Solder is so soft compared to copper that it would never bite right. You'd think they would know this, but it's a cheap amazon product instead of professional gear.
I would never use a fused breaker in an RV.. As most fuses are slow blow and rated for 10 second to 500 second delay...So unless the customer knows about Fuse Types. I would never use that thing...I use ABB Breakers. With Direct connections to them.. I even add Shunt trip breaker for added peace of mind...
The 63A breaker is too low IMHO for a 6 way combiner box. Not many solar panels have an Isc rating below 10A. I can only think of expensive top end SunPower ones.
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
I really don't like the current design of screw terminals. I have a better design where teeth would clamp over the wire, and add more of a bite onto the wire. Most cheap screw in wire terminals don't have that. I've even had a wire melt before because of a terminal that let the wire partially slip out.
It's a compression style connector, but the wire is essentially solid and you can't compress a solid wire.
The losses that diodes produce in voltage is almost equal to 1 solar cell less for each diode connected, am I right?
Each fuse is 12 amp in a 10amp max, with a 63amp main? I have this same exact combiner box
Your panels have diodes built in already dude. To be honest you could of just built that yourself for what it does, it's just a trip box !! Just an immense over kill for a setup. Your charge controller! / gridtie inverter! "what ever you use" will have all you need to stop back voltage going into the panels when it's dark. Just like the bloking diodes in the panels.
To be honest mate you have wasted your money! Get a refund. Pointless purchase!!!
Stupid door opening only 90 degree
I have to modify it??
How can I rely on other parts???
Door is a feature - a wind and general weather break, honest.
The first few minutes sure makes me glad I didn't order this box and went for a Pow Grow instead...
what is the main breaker for? there's a fuse for each panel.... thanks
I’m needing to get a combiner Box 📦 I have 4 Rich Solar Panels 100W 5.41A ea. I have 2 different inverter EASUN 3000W Hybrid 24v 110v & the other EASUN 5KVA 230v Hybrid 48v GWM for this inverter I got a SIEMENS Transformer MTO100A 220-480 x1 in & 110-240 out x2 any recommendations ?
Is the enclosure and everything in it UL LIsted?
Is this device UL Listed. From the looks etc., I would guess not. If that is the case it should not be used under any circumstances.
Nope! Good thing I just got a new Sol-Ark inverter and can avoid parallel connections all together!
I got the four strand. It isn’t rated for much. Please read the stats carefully
Appreciate this!
I made an Identical combiner box for less than half that price!
Any video on it?
@@HighTechLab Yes, Id like to see it too. Have a list of parts and prices if you can too.
I can do a list of parts but sorry no video 🙁
Bro you dreaming when you add parts, box breakers and time to build it, for $150
@@VroomvroomNY can you get me that list??
Loss in the diode plus your panels have diodes . I have received products from China with steel wire. I noticed it rusting.
Wow steel wire! You've got to be kidding me!
Did some research, I think the diodes in the solar panels only come into play when panels are in shaded areas
@@HighTechLab i would think they are in use in all situations. That is what gives you the allowable 600- 1000vdc series connection. I would think this is why you can connect in parallel and not worry if a group of panels is shaded. Which also should not matter if you paralleled a 50 cell and a 72 cell. But you should only get the greater voltage or the panel that is performing the best. But as for power consumption, if it is in the circuit it will be burning power. No?
I can dig deeper into this and make some videos on it. I'm not sure to be honest
@@HighTechLab not a big deal to me. Ive been getting a lot of copyright stikes lately. Id rather not .
can you fix pv arrays to the ecoworthy box
Nice review.
Solder tinning the ends of the wires, that is a problem in itself over time and at that start, and this video shows it.
lol i just saw your "How to get into vip lounge (hypixel" video that was like 10 years ago haha. your voice changes a lot
I am confused. I bought this box with lot of confidence .As I saw he was just pulling wires with minimum effort??
and not solders properly or lugged properly
Now its too late to do the postmortem
Can I come nitpick electrical cabinets you’ve put together?
It would be my pleasure
I've been looking for info on that box thanks
Bro it's way to expensive for 115 bucks.... Cud have done it for 50 bucks with complete IP 65 protection
Why dont use mm2
My strings are 320vdc each. 3 strings total. Too small for me buddy.
Why so small if you only have 3 stream
I wanted to get one to install 4 individual pannels in parallel. 330w each for 24v system
Peux ton ajouté un eleolienne avec ce système
ty ty
You don't need the diodes. Blocking diodes are already built into the panel.
It's more cost effective and better to build your own combiner
Those are bypass diodes in the panels, not blocking diodes.
Yes indeed but still a similar thing. I haven't seen many combiner boxes on the market with blocking diodes. I personally wouldn't bother.. Shouldn't get any back flow
@@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513 it's funny that nobody can give a perfect answer if blocking diodes are needed. it's 50/50, some say yes, others say it isn't needed. In the handbook of my panels (Trina) they say yes, they are needed...
Three are done in the panels themselves. I wouldn't bother. What's going to happen anyway ?
Let's be honest with ourselves - the diodes make it look Way cooler than those without.
2:43 That door should come off. IMHO you bought a POS.
Boxes with mc4 connectors are rubbish . the connectors fall apart when you try to remove the wires ,cheap junk
Excelente. Producto para proteger el sistema solar fotovoltaico .
Si lees y escuchas con atención el producto es una porqueria china , de mala calidad todo , riesgo de corto eléctrico con la caja tan chica y metálica.
@@davidcromapix9083 si tienes razón esta caja se puede aterrizar para minimizar el riesgo de corto eléctrico , la mejor opción sería montar estos elementos. En una caja de policarbonanato.
That actually popped up in my search when I was looking for combiner boxes. What a hunk of junk that is
Lol gasket on 3 sides, what a joke
👍🏼
top
Joke
To long explaining boring
I am sorry you feel that way.
Give HighTechLab a break, John. HighTechLab is talking about a combiner box, not a Ferrari. It's not exactly the most exciting thing to talk about. HighTechLab provided us with an excellent, in depth review of this combiner box. Some TH-camrs barely highlight the features and then have the nerve to call it a review. I commend HighTechLab for the service he provides. Thank you HighTechLab--well done!