Impact or Drill? What will YOU Choose?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2023
- Impact or Drill? Which #tool do you choose.
Metabo Triple Hammer (best impact out there)
amzn.to/3m1nj0y
Makita XGT Drill/Driver/Hammer Drill
amzn.to/41cXkCn
RR Building Plans
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I like to think everyone has some bittersweet memories of a big red corded Milwaukee that tried to snap their wrist.
I still get nightmares from it.
I still have a corded Milwaukee hammer drill
Nope i cant afford milwaukee but they aren't the only tools that do that regardless
I actually still have one in the very bottom of my tool box. Thats where tools go to get forgot about.
Sure do that and concrete drills when they catch a stone 😮
When I was a kid, my first 18 volt DeWalt slammed me in the temple and threw me off the ladder.
Good times
My first Milwaukee twisted my wrist so hard the little 2ah batter whacked me in the face 😂😂
This happened to me a couple years ago. Stayed on the ladder but looked like I had been punched in the face.
I was 17 i was drilling a ground for a chandlerie it was in open hall which ran all the way to tge second story in height, i was drilling down standing on the joists when the corded 240v drill malfunctioned, it kicked and kept turning with no hand on trigger, i tried to stop it but ended up geting tye cord wrapped around my leg while this beast kept tightening it, my father quickly cut the cable with a skill saw and saved my leg from serious injury, i still have a lovely ringed burn scar on my leg.
😂😂😂
I hit myself in the jaw doing overhead drilling.😂😂😂 the good old days
A good tradesman doesn’t blame his tools
He blames the tools watching him
Cant tell you how many times my level decided to show up crooked
The one tool watching the clock
A good driver will change your life. I promise
A good carpenter would make that joint without nails.
Exactly. He is using spax screws. Those are what makes it easy. The drill has little to do with it. A Ryobi DIY dad drill will drive the spax the same as the "premium" drill.
I noticed it too. But you should have said, "if you are only going to be putting in a few of those screws, the drill driver will suffice. However, the drill will heat up quick if you keep pushing it. Whereas the impact will last because that's what it's designed to do...
This. Plus impact WRENCH with a adapter will blow the water out of both 😆
@@Jared-eyou've never touched a power tool in your life pal
@@juicyjack3331neither have you. Ive been working trade for 29 years (im only 35) missed my mom’s funeral cause i had to work. I can tell when im talking to sissy liberals.
@juicyjack3331 *insert generic insult about your tool ability that we all KNOW is me just grasping-at-straws because we're all complete strangers on the internet who objectively know nothing we're saying about each other.*
Just keeping the chain going. 👍
@@JakeSmith-em5shyou know this could have been another long lasting youtube comments feud but you just had to ruin it didn’t you
Rule 1 Every tool has a job
Rule 2 For every tool there's a better tool
Rule 3 better tools cost more
Rule 4 bad tools cost you more
Rule 5 a good tool used wrong is still a good tool It's the user that's bad.
Agreed to all. You get what you pay for. Ive been a framer for 20 plus years and It's unbelievable how mad some people get when their cheap tool break lol.
@@frankierzucekjr absolutely and not everything can be measured an hourly but that's not tool related, that's more just the nature of the trade. do you care more about how long it takes, or do you care about the quality, or the cost regardless of what timeline it's on. Do you want it fast, do you want it cheap or do you want it good. If you want good and cheap it won't be fast, if you look good and fast it won't be cheap, if you want fast and cheap it won't be good.
@@SenseiTimMinke amen bro, agree again
In every aspect of products and services, you get what you pay for. This can never be truer and you have to set the price you want to pay and look for someone in that range.
Rule 6 use the fuck it adjustment
My 40 year old corded Makita drill has a button on the grip that says _ROTATOR CUFF DESTROYER_ in Japanese 😅
Only if they're weak 😂. That shit should always be on and activated to keep the ball in the socket. You're probably a sloucher
I’ll have to check my Mikita which is the only kind I buy direct from the factory and you’ll get tools that will last you but for some reason you buy the same Mikita at say Home Depot and damn thing will be lucky it lasts 3-4 months but when I heard finally to buy direct I have had the same 5-6” grinder for past 5-6 years and still running just changed the brushes twice.🤷🏻♂️😂😂
@@pieheadthemainiac5480ive had the same makita drills and grinder for 6 years. Brushless. No issues ever from home depot
You know it! And note something else too about Makita.. they are ALL double-insulated. NO GROUND LUG! I've STOOD in WATER using my drill drilling a hole through the water! yeah try that with a Dewalt and you'll be DEAD!
Lmbo!!! 😂😂😂
It has the anti-kickback, but it still tried to snap your wrist off. Yes the impact is a bit slower but the sheer laziness of it is just great. No tight grips, crazy control, and just overall less strain on your body makes it my go-to for every screw or bolt I’m ever gonna use.
Good to know.
I agree.
I love my impact
Except for the ear drum shattering noise (especially in a dried in shell with no finishes or on metal framing), yeah its real nice and lazy.
Use your impact to mix a 5 gallon pail of all purpose 😅
Great! Now my wife is at Home Depot looking for a triple hammer.
i will make it a point to have my kid experience the torque demon that is the big ol’ corded milwaukee
We still have a big ass die-cast Craftsman drill that literally broke my uncles forearm when I was a kid. I remember it hanging limp from the skin. Ugh
Nice pfp
Arm snapper😢😂
I always waited on the battery to charge for my cordless, rather than use the corded Milwaukee. They're all demon possessed.
Whatcha gonna do, Tyler?
Hang it by its cord from the pendant light fitting in his bedroom, rigged up to the door with a trip wire style mechanism, so that when he opens the door into his bedroom it swings down and smashes him in the face?
Or rig up the trigger switch so that it sends 110v through his 5 year old body. The beauty of that is that his muscle spasms keep him gripping the tool until you decide to unplug it.
What fun that would be watching him juddering around in circles with his eyes bulging, chewing on his tongue and a widening stain appearing on the front of his shorts! Hahaha ... haha ... I can hardly contain myself thinking about!
The only problem with that is, if he survives, you'd better watch your back for the rest of your life!
Haaa, haaa, haaa, hooee!
I aways used a corded drill then a few years ago I was working with another guy and he used a Milwaukee impact.
I tried it and never went back.
There is no comparison. The impact also seems to help butt the material together as well and it will countersink the screw clean through if you let it.
Exactly. Impact drives screws and the material together differently than a regular drill. The impact motor could drive as fast too, but the motion of the impact hammer in the driver drivetrain slows things down. I prefer impact on all my work. Everything seems tighter.
People forgot that impacts are for something you need to impart a lot of torque on.
Yeah, alot of people don't understand the purpose of their tools. They ought to be given a hammer for everything they do...
Still not really correct though. The makita he showed has more torque than most impacts when set to low speed. The purpose of an impact driver is… for impact applications.. to overcome the frictional forces between two hard surfaces in extreme compression.
Everything.
Even that is oversimplifying the difference between impacts and drill-drivers
impact drills exist for purpose of saving our wrists, drill drivers offering more torque
Dad had a Porter Cable made in the early 50's, it would spin you in a circle until you let go, or it unplugged itself. Come to think of it, I think he still has it.
Can always count on dad for having the big badass tools that can also kill you if youre not careful
Sad how they ruined that porter cable. Reduced it to plastic mush that works more like a toy then a tool.
My dad has/had a 90 degree drill that lifted all 300+ pounds of him off the ground until he let go of the trigger. The 6" hole saw bit got caught in an 8x8.
Try cutting holes with a 6" holesaw in wood for can lights!!!!😢
Probably still works great also
I’m over here still trying to find the chuck key for dads Black and Decker drill.
RIP 💀
Was doing this exact thing today 😂
@Rusty Shackleford just crank the chuck with channel locks
Key.. chuck key
@@leonhuggins7579 😂😂
I have an old corded 3/4 Makita. I still use it all the time in the shop. I don't know if I am a monster but I've never had this wrist breaking issue, even with that drill.
My older cousin was repairing a hauling trailer for my grandpa when i was 16. Mind you, he was around 36-37 years old. He yelled at me to get off my phone, so i slid my phone in my back pocket, not paying attention, and sat down to hold a board while he used a big solid metal silver drill with an iron handle grip the side and a thick solid power cord. He locked that little sliding trigger lock and i watched the drill bit lock and spin up violently and quickly. My cousin then accidentally punched himself so hard in the face he started having the death rattle sound and freaked me out until he choked on spit and started coughing and woke himself up. I freaked out and realized my phone screen was fucked.
If you’ve ever had a corded drill almost have you meet your maker while using it on a ladder… go ahead and hit that subscribe button.
The worst part of that is ya hafta just stand there and take it - cuz there ain't no place to go, except down!!
This guy watches flannel daddy
😂😂😂😂
🏆
Yes!
Damn I’ve never seen a drill outdo an impact for this kind of stuff
For something soft like cedar and a #10 screw... Yea impact is overkill.
Harder wood and lags? Impact is needed.
@@ObservationofLimits yeah my DeWalt did the same, blew my mind
Hopefully in some of the newer lines the temp's will be a little better
I've been using Makita and Hilti drills for framing und roofing work for years and always preferred them over the impact. Only time I used the impact driver was when I had to screw the rafters to the ridge without any scaffolding and only with one hand
Cedar. Couldn't do that with dense wood
Harry left the Royals to become a chippy! Top lad! 😂
That's it, I'm calling the cops.. UNCALLED for PAL
Most of the mass timber screw manufacturers don’t permit the use of impact drivers to install their screws. Check the manufacturer’s tech data sheets.
Sounds like bad engineering.
Wow didn’t know that. When I migrated to the impact there were no drills that could do that. And I never went back. I’ve busted screws and bits with an impact. Good to know thanks
Before my impact driver I was using regular corded drill only for driving long screws like the one on video into wood.
@@krzysiej--9229 cordless have come a long way since the Mikita 7.2 volt (in ‘78) cordless drill. A 3” #10 into spruce was a challenge lol.
I break way more screws and bits using a regular drill than I do with an impact! Impacts are way better if you have to screw off all day!
@@swooopg tend to agree but that drill was faster. I’ll still stick to the impact for now.
@@henrinaths1 oh yeah, the drill is faster
That looks good but I’m pretty sure that drill is already out of juice with that screw 😂
I’m at a complete loss! I thought for certain the drill/driver would struggle. Nope, barely acted as if it was loaded down!! Awesome
The impact takes longer because it turns at a slower rpm as it adds the hammering action. While the drill may seem faster, on screws this long, it heats the drill up internally to a far greater extent, which in the end reduces the life of the drill and drains the battery much faster. The hammer drill is more suited for this type of work because it’s geared lower, therefore develops more torque with less current, which is why it runs slower and stays cooler.
Also, cedar is soft, you do this on treated 6x6 pine or hardwood, and it will be a different story. You’ll end up burning your perfectly good Hitachi drill up. I burned up a Makita cordless drill this exact same way.
Finally a sensible comment
@@michaelleach8897so is HPT as dead as German metabo at this point ? Have they refreshed anything since releasing multvolt line?
The drill doesn't seem faster.
It IS more than twice as fast.
Even selecting the list gear on the drill like you're supposed to in this kind of application it will still be faster than the impact and use less current as well.
Thank you for this comment was looking for it lol
Hundred bucks says they'll come out with a drill that can be an impact with the flip of a switch. That's where the money is
I bought a makita in 2006, 3 way switch from drill, impact and hammer.
Problem is they're too big/bulky/cumbersome. they actually used to have these back in the day but became extinct for that reason that it was neither a good impact or a good drill
@@spiggot01 the hammer selection on your drill is totally different from a impact hammer drill. Every tool has its purpose.
It would be interesting to see that just because the guts are completely different from each other.. The impact has a huge spring and plate inside its housing and the drill has gears.
@@Papalegba22, how does the switching drill accomplish the hammer function, if not the same as an impact?
The big thing for me with impact drivers is the lack of reaction force into your hand/wrist compared to a drill. You can almost hold an impact driver with one finger.
I honestly use my impacts for almost everything, even when I shouldn't be.
Dam str8! Just apply some finesse when necessary
Same. All about that trigger discipline 😂
I deff drill holes with an Impact 😅
Ya Ive tapped with an impact.... actually have better luck with them idk
Nice
Impacts are nice because there's no kick back or twist back but they also like to break the hardware sometimes, especially longer stuff like these.
Impacts are for dudes that like lifted trucks
Impact drivers can break delicate screws or damage material from over tightening. Drills are great for drilling, fasteners to frail for impact drivers, and delicate work. Impact drives are great for standard 2-1/2 to 4 inch construction wood screws, drilling rough ins with a paddle bit, and lag screws.
@@davidperry4013 I use an impact for paddle bits so I don't catch something and jam my wrist.
@@jond661Haha u made me spit my coffee out! 😂 . I just love the sound the impacts make 👍🏻
@@davidperry4013You do know that good drivers have different modes right?
I'll choose the one that is lightest, fits in the most gaps and screws in the most screws between batteries.
People seem to have forgotten it’s actually called a drill driver and it’s the best thing for driving screws and bolts and you can set the torque so it it slips at the end.
The torque from the drill has a tendency to twist and snap the screws. That's where the impact is superior. Faster isn't always better
So when is it beneficial to use a drill?
@JT Perez I try to just keep it simple.....impact driver when I'm screwing in screws or whatever, hammer drill for making holes. Everyone's different tho 🤙🏼
@@jtperez657 to make a whole....
@@jtperez657 When you are drilling a hole
@@ponderin lol. A whole what?
We use drills too. Headache prevention being the main reason
I haven’t used my impact driver in years for that very reason.
It must be using the impact all day that makes for headache, hard go.
yall never heard of the surge i guess?? best of both worlds its a quiet impact
@@jboy856 surge has way less power than a regular. not suitable for heavy work like this.
@jboy856 yeah got one, it's great upto 100mm but not as powerful as Isaac said
I love how people still don't know the drills have always been faster than impacts for wood. It's why mechanics don't use drills and they use impacts for bolts. Because they're Rusty and an impact is good at shocking the bolt loose we're a drill will just annihilate the crap out of probably breaking it in the process
Faster yes, I've had extensive experience in both. But, when using a drill you need to apply two handed pressure on your drill when using larger longer screws. Your left hand to push down so it doesn't cam out, and your right wrist from the counter pressure on the screw twisting into the wood. Drills are also bigger and bulkier (generally). So if your on top of a ladder driving a big lag into hardwood horizontally, you're liable to tip the ladder and down you go. If you have both drills, the impact is the better choice. But for small fasteners, I don't think it doesn't matter.
That's truly wild. I have checked off drills completely. For years I've only been using impacts. This made me rethink literally everything I thought I knew about impacts being far more powerful than the drill of same brand. Wild.
You can do an impact one handed, the drill definitely needs two
Maybe the anti kickback makes it possible to hold with one hand?
Maybe you just need bigger wrists. Lol
Yeah exactly, this is really the main advantage of an impact. Drills are far far stronger if you’re strong enough to hold them.
I often put the drill between my legs in addition to using two hands.
@@jeevunvethanayagam6536 nope even with anti-kickback you have to use both hand to hold it steady! Especially with metal! Brushless motor.
@@useditem_tk I see. That is good to know.
When that screw starts to bind against harder wood the impact driver is the best option
The best option at snapping the head of yeah.
Agreed.. but I will reach for the drill first, about 80% of the time these days..
Impacts have their place and they are invaluable.. but the drill is so much quieter, and often faster
@@treyhart6861 the drill is faster but the impact driver while slower gives better control and far less likely to snap a screw or strip the head at least that has been my experience
Are you the the framer who keeps splitting my hard wood installs?
@@thmsvrgs lmfaoo
Okay but impacts are made for driving in long screws and bolts and the drill is made to drill holes and such. If you keep using that drill that way, it’ll break on you eventually.
Quite the contrary. Long screws are essentialy a torsion spring, thus impact drivers are not really suited for them.
Most manufacturers provide high torque/low speed non-impact drivers for this purpose.
Just depends on application and screw size. If you were to screw off a metal roof you would most def be using an impact.
It’s great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan’s th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
You mean guns don't kill people people kill people, I never heard such a thing as called a bad tool, Because you can always use it for something Fishing wait boat anchor you name it
Lol. Edited comment and on top of that. It’s like reading someone trying to not sound like an advertisement
Finding bits that don't round out themselves or the screws is the problem.
Striping screw heads is for dinosaurs. Get away from your dad's old #2 Phillips and stop being cheap when it comes to your hardware and go get yourself some Torx!
@@williamrodriguezmswlcsw8119 for sure this is true but I still find myself burning through star bits from the cam out.
@@funkmanone Yes, there is that! Plus burning through the extra cash for those fancy screws. Regardless, I could never go back to routinely using Phillips or heaven forbid flat heads!!
🪛🤬
@@williamrodriguezmswlcsw8119 Pffft go with Robertson bits.
Never reuse the screws atleast not for anything structural. Buy 1" insert bits, and inspect them regularly, downgrade them to hand powered applications when they start to wear. Perhaps even buy the hardened ones. And use an engineered fastener.
I don't mind the the impact drivers being a little bit slower, they are very comfortable to use.
So slower, louder and causes vibration damages to your hands
@@thenorthernhandyman dunno about vibrations
@@predatorysage1 well dont you realize that a impact tool vibrates then i cant help you.
@@thenorthernhandyman it does vibrate but nowhere near enough to cause damage unless you're using it to drive huge nuts and bolts all day which at that point you should invest in a impact wrench to save your driver and hands. Drills harder on your wrist when screwing with them.
@@predatorysage1 all vibrations causes damages.... small screws dont need impact, big ones are slower with impact and damages your hands
I love my impact but damn that drill was faster and smoother in my opinion
No goofy ass musical edit, straight to the point and concise. I like this man.
Indeed! None of that garbage noise they call music
Foreal tho , I'm so tired of all that extra bs !
Except I'm not sure which drill he's talking about besides it's blue.
@@backho12What do YOU call music? Just curious.
Love my metabo set. My 7 in circular saw has a low volume setting for indoors which makes cutting in residential situations less invasive and also has auto adjusting speed on this setting to spin faster temporarily for harder cuts. Amazing stuff
Big thing to remember is that the point of the impact was to reduce felt torque. That torque is terrible for your wrist and elbow overtime.
Drill drivers in this case are also harder on the battery. Impacts arent as hard.
Don’t tell them about physics they just care about the results
I remember I was working demo, tearing a stage out. Battery powered sawzalls and impacts.
The sawzalls guzzle power like nobody's business. Drain them instantly. We're running back and forth to the chargers, trying to just keep tools going.
I give up, and decide to do what we should have done, and just dig around in glued/painted over wood to pull the screws out instead of breaking my back trying to fight over prybars. The easy way.
The new guy I was working with blows up on me, saying I was lazy, hogging all the batteries.
Mind you, I had not changed batteries once since I started pulling screws. This was an already spent battery. It was mine.
He said he just needed to cut about two feet of board.
I told him that if he could get through that two feet on that battery, I'd buy him lunch that week.
The dude made it about 10 inches before the tool goes silent, and he walks off pissed.
I put that thing back in my impact and immediately went back to pulling screws with whatever drops of juice were left in there.
THEY JUST REQUIRE LESS POWER THAN ALMOST ANYTHING.
I remember using a corded Milwaukee Magnum drill and almost broke my wrist. I was cutting holes for 4" cans. The material I was going through was plaster, metal lath, wood lath. Its a 125yr old house. The drill caught and spun with my finger stuck on the trigger and the cord wrapping around my wrist. It scared the crap out of me.
I’ll never use a corded drill again! Even for 1/2” stuff like big hole saws and mixers…battery powered drills are definitely better!
You make history come alive.
I've had this happen with 1/8" steel plate. But broke through early and got itself locked up. It didn't break my wrist, but I learned to drill with my left hand so the drill handle would get pulled out of my hand if it happened again.
@@razgrizbird4562 that's a good idea. But might the drill fall down?
Stop being little girls, grab the drill properly with both hands and own that wrister twister.
Bottom Line: Premium Drill drivers with kickback prevention are: bigger, heavier, more expensive...and the kickback control does not always translate to "no kickback". Impacts are smaller, lighter, cheaper, safer....
Yes! My favorite impact in my arsenal...triple hammer Hitachi (Metabo)
Both, they both have their advantages depending on the application. 👍
This.
I was using a 20 volt DeWalt drill a year and a half ago. Drilling a 2” hole through a 4x6 beam and I hut a nail. It twisted my left wrist fraying the tendons in my thumb. It has been two surgeries four pins and a tight rope wire putting my hand back together and ending my construction career.
Puss
Should’ve had a better grip on it
Should have used a Ryobi... Lol.!
But that sux you got jacked up though.
So would an impact driver have prevented this injury?
If you love the triple hammer, youll love the quadruple hammer.
My gosh. Where will it end?!
Drills are great for most scenarios, but when you run into mixed materials in weird places, the impact will shine, especially when you can’t put your weight behind it.
I had to put a screw through a window sill to mount an AC brace, but it had a storm sill on top and some other sheet metal beneath that were around 1/8” thick combined before you even hit the wood. I didn’t have the room to put my weight on the drill to push through the metal, so I brought out my impact driver and it went through instantly. The drill, however, would go through about 1/16” and dance around doing nothing.
I prefer drills, but it’s definitely on a case by case basis. Both my impact and drill are Bosch and have anti-kick, which is so great to have. I remember growing up helping my dad at work and being afraid to full send screws for fear of getting my wrists snapped 😂
I find that the impact helps me in tight places where I can’t put a lot of force behind the drill.
@@juanloza3451 I like tight spaces to drill with full force.
I've been using my drill a lot more rhe past couple years and let me tell you...that side handle is your friend. The newest models of drills are wrist & knuckle breakers
A few months a brand new green apprentice looked like he got in a fight . Guess he found out what old hammer drills were capable of .
Okay good. I was thinking the first one was gonna be faster lol
The difference in most scenarios is how you had to use both hands to keep the driver bit in the screw. Vs the hammer being able to lock itself on the screw.
I love my Makita drill. I use it for anything that requires Serious Force
I've been prehanging doors manually since I was 15 years old in the mid 90s...those kickbacks from an old school drill while opening a lock hole on a oak door were epic and I got a few bad injuries from them...still to this day with all the better tools I still respect it like I did back then.
As someone who puts in about 100 3in t30 screw somedays definitely the impact watch him fight the drill if you rotate the impact back and forth a little it will go alot deeper and i feel like its faster but they will both get very hot very quick
Drills are for drilling holes, impacts are for driving screws
Im dating myself but there wasn't anything more frightening than using a 1/2" electric drill on a ladder 20' plus off the ground while drilling a 1" hole through wood or steel with one arm holding ladder and the other holding the drill
Nightmare fuel! Brings back memories I’d have preferred to forget. So much for my good night’s sleep!
I'm sure there's someone out there for you ❤
When the impact can't get the screw out again, the drill usually can
Not to make this a pissing contest, I'd say opposite, but I could be wrong, maybe it was the manufacturers tools im used to working with. And my impacts would get it out or it sheered. But I can't say I've used Makita tools much in past 10yrs maybe a dozen times, I can say back in like 05 I used a small Makita cordless and I was very impressed by its power for being so little and it was only a nickel cadium and battery I believe too..
I love my Makita set
I still prefer an impact driver. It pulls the screw tighter especially the longer ones.
Wow good to see drills are back in the tool bag. I remember when impacts/hammer drills were the only ones to get the heavy stuff done
For the last 20+ years drills have been able to do this, but people don't tend to use gear 1 on the gearbox so they never know just how much torque a drill has. It will beat an impact on speed but will bread your screws, bits and wrists
I don't
The kickback on them old ones would sometimes slip from my hand and nail me right in the shin 😂
I have so many wonderful memories with them .. I actually got arthritis after only 10 years
@@toketwo Fuck that sucks lmao. Im so glad that heat was killer
My first use on a Makita plug in slipped my palm and nut tapped me worse than Johnny Knoxville. Can still feel it
Honestly,
Having spoken with a few companies that work in the timber frame business. Some of these companies work almost exclusively with drills.
Hearing the wrist breaker line, I remembered when my brother was using my dad's 1960's sher drill. Massive, low geared aluminium cased with a d handle it bogged down and did damage his wrist. Museum piece now.
Thanks for the tip man. I've been doing this for 25 years and I'm 40. I have 6 drills and I rarely use the regular drills. I think it's because it's less pressure u have to use with the impact but the other is going to be my choice now. Appreciate ya
I use my drill as an impact too. And then my impact has a drill chuck on. They literally switched roles
So you use the drill chuck adapter on an Impact?, and what do you use the regular drill for? Genuinely curious if I'm missing something special
Since we are talking about the torque of drills. About 12 years back, I worked at a Vestas wind turbine factory. We had pretty nice, beefy pneumatic drills. We used them with 15mm drill bits to install lightning buttons in the blades. I watched this woman in her mid 50's, probably 4'11" nearly break her wrist, and catch the drill in her face/lip due to the torque and the bit catching. Shortly after, we could no longer use pneumatic drills and went to some lousy battery powered Bosch drills. I always had a strong dislike for the Bosch, the chucks were weak links. A much smaller Milwaukee always outperformed them and was a cheaper tool too.
I like my Milwaukee surge, it feels like a small drill and drives like an impact. They fort a bad wrap based on bolts but for screws it’s awesome
I’ve had the 40v impact and drill for a month now. I’ve used the impact all month on roof screws. Love it. I used the drill last night for the first time and it’ll blow timber apart it your not careful. What a beast. I used my 18v to carefully drill the last few delicate holes in the end haha.
The drill is still way harder on your joints, you will feel it way more after using it all day
Way harder? Toughin up buttercup😂
@@KA-om9oz Enjoy your shit quality of life in your middle age years. It's about being smart, not tough.
@@KA-om9oz K A in agony 30 years later with no insurance: "Wrist surgery costs *_how much???"_*
@@KA-om9oz do it for 20 years.
@@KA-om9oz you got soft hands, cupcake
I’ve used the Milwaukee hydraulic driver recently and that thing blows the doors off impacts and drills all day
I’ve noticed that the triple hammer tends to loose grip on screws a lot less often than the standard drivers.
Now I pretty much use them exclusively.
For any plumbers out here, just remember all the wrists & arms that were distorted while using the right angle drill!! 😂. It’s the phase of rough in we dread at times. Especially older homes!!
Oh dear god, it’s a miracle I haven’t broken anything on my hands, did have one smack me in the head once while I was on a ladder though
Yep Hole hawg lol
Oh yeah, the boxy right angle was an arm breaker. You could drill 2-9/16 on high but it was gonna kill it early.
Anything on low and you best screw in the arm. We are living large with the clutched super hole hawg
@@knuckledragger2412 🤣🤣
hvac rough ins , those 2 and a half inch bits. wristbreakers
For longer screws, drill will do job fast but you better be careful while using it.
I've used both, while you may show that the drill is faster it is not better. Notice when you used the impact, besides putting mild pressure so your bit does not cam out, your trigger hand was relaxed. When you used the drill, you will need to put more pressure down because it will cam out and your trigger hand is bearing the counter force of screw being driven. If that screw was larger in diameter, you would have to put even more force on the drill. If you were driving those fasteners horizontally on top of the ladder it will not be as safe. If you have both, the impact is the better choice for this application.
It's the pressure you need to apply with a drill compared to a impact...makes me like the impact
Not really cedar the pressure is about the same now drilling or impacting into spruce or yellow pine you are going to want an impact
With torx head, there's almost zero cam-out. Never ever ever would be able to do that with a Philips head.
You never touched a drill brother, drills are more powerful
@@dwilley2977 no duh, that's his point
@@bobos245 When you use a PR2 or PHR2 bit there's no problems. (Other mfg might use a different abbreviation) WAAAAY better than the old school #2 phillips bit. I'm 52 and glad I found this out 10 years ago. It's like using the mold that made the Phillips screw head. Huge difference!
Yes cordless drill motors many times have around 3-4 times the torque of the motor running an impact driver. They eat this kind of stuff up. And yeah the anti-kickback is really the key here.
Wow,I totally thought that driver was going to fail halfway through, definitely going to try one of those. I guess for me it comes down to a few factors, 1.which one drains the battery first 2.which one is more exhausting to use 3.which one is most likely to break your wrist. For me, I've always found the impact driver easier to use, you don't really have to hold it that hard ,and it just keeps digging. A drill, on the other hand, you have to hold pretty hard,plus that whole wrist breaking thing. Great video, brother 👍 thanks
I still use my 40yr old 9.6V Makita drill! 😂
Impressive! New batteries I'm guessing?
Yep, drill drivers in solid wood would try to break your wrist but you knew they had the power to do this. Trigger modulation was key, impact drivers are easier on the joints for less money
I never understood that. It had a lil.kick but not anything that would hurt me. The bit breaks first on my drills
That 2nd for sure, I’m making the switch now, that tool is so good.
I can tell you’re working harder with the drill.
What’s the actual purpose of the tool?
Some would say to save time.
Some would say to save effort.
It’s clear that you have to grip the drill harder or it will get away from you.
I’ll use the impact as it’s easier on the user.
I work as a construction site supervisor and people that are hired as sub trades using impacts where they shouldn’t use impact all the time they use them on tin and therefore crushed the rubber washers on the screws that you would use which compromises them and allows water to get into the roof structure with drills you can set a torque setting for that so that you don’t crush the rubber people need to be educated on tools in their proper applications
I've been noticing that about my DeWalt stuff. The drill just runs sht right in that the impact struggles with.
Na man, it was all in the Milwaukee extension bit 😅
For GRKs and other structural screws I actually like the drill because I feel like I can actually see the wood clamping down harder versus the impact I feel like it's more likely to chew up The wood with the threads especially if it's pine
If you do that for an entire day with a driver, your wrist is going to be sore af even if you have zero kickback. i'm in love with hammer drills.
Very recently I watched a coworker shatter his nose with an M18 Milwaukee drill due to kickback.
That's why they're called 'impact' drills!😄
@@davidashton2361 …. An impact and a drill are very different things brother.
It was a joke, bro!
I think I probably know more about cordless tools than you do, son, but I can't be bothered to get into a discussion with you about them.
I'm a retired carpenter of 76 with about 40 years in the construction industry. There ain't much you can tell me about them!
But thank you for your interest!😄
Just to add to my last comment, Bro.
The SDS system is a percussion drill for various applications, such as drilling into concrete and with the rotary feature switched off, light demolition work. Special bits are used that only fit in the SDS collet
system. An SDS adapted chuck is also available so that the percussion drill can be converted into using standard drill bits with the percussion feature switched off and the rotary feature engaged.
A hammer drill is for drilling into
brickwork and screed surfaces
(sharp sand and cement morter mix). It can be used to drill into concrete provided the concrete mix is not a strong high cement content mix, but it will be hard work and the wall drill bits will wear out quickly.
The hammer action can be disengaged for straight drilling.
A drill/driver is a drill that is used to drill holes in metal and wood up to the recommended capacity of the drill and can be switched into screw driving mode for driving in screws.
It features a variable torque system and, most importantly, a reverse mode.
All three of these drilling machines feature a variable speed adjustment.
Either within the trigger mechanism or as a separate adjuster control knob.
Are you clear now? Can I help you with anything else?
Multi tools, thicknessers, table saws ROUTERS, electric planers, biscuit jointers, pillar drills, guillotine trimmers, morticing machines, wood working lathes, disc cutters/grinders, belt Sanders, linishers, jigsaws, disc Sanders, finishing sanders, chop saws, compound saws, slide compound saws, circular saws, trimmers, electronic distance measures, sash cramps, 'G' cramps, TAPE MEASURES, squares, sliding bevels, claw hammers, pin hammers, nail guns, brick layers towels, plasters trowels and hawks,
levels, theodolites and levels, chisels for woodworking and brickwork, bolsters, roofing squares, slate rippers, lead dressers, lead soldering kits, bow saws, hacksaws, sabre saws, chain morticers, chisel morticers, etc, etc, etc ,etc!
Erhh! I'm knackered! Think I'll have a dump and then go shopping. Think I'll treat myself to big Mac while I'm out! 🤭😳😋
@@davidashton2361you have clearly already had too many big macs
Been doing same with 18v makita for a few years. Didnt have impact onsite and tried the drill. Hey! This is better. Def sinks the head as shown too! 🎉
The speed and the noise is definitely better. Battery life? Obviously size and weight have points as well.
Id definitely use the drill over the impact its faster and quieter. That makes a big difference on people complaining while you're working early in the morning.
Impressive but pre drilling serves two purposes. One it clears a hole in the first piece (there’s no reason for that hole to be threaded. The wood is also less likely to split
Love that 40 Volt line, slowly building up my 40 Volt Arsenal!
85 hours a motherfuckin day. You got soft hands, brother.
YEEUUPP 85 HOUR 84 ON SUNDAY GOBBLISS 🇺🇲
@@lllllllllllllllllllll1lll1 my wife left me for the journeyman down the street because he got the F three-fiddy super doody. God bless 🇺🇸
Said it with the voice
@@davidvazquez8893 CAN'T BLAME ER BROTHER HELL OF A MACHINE LOVE ME A POWERSTROKE GORBLES!! 🟦⬜🟥
The fuck language you all speaking
The problem is that the drill will overheat if you abuse it like that and eventually burn up.
Also the anti writs breaking thing isn't working as well as expected, you demonstrated that in this video
Check the manual, most drills will state what they can and cannot do, and there is usually a warning about how using a drill like can damage the battery or motor. The brushless drills have all that torque as a result of their design and it increases their efficiency, but they do burn up when overused. Even larger hole saws are torture on those batteries.
Impacts will Destroy your joints don’t push hard let the tool do it.
I’ve always been a Makita girl and having respect for power tools is key to avoid injury
I think I have your poster .