Great video. One thing I might consider adding to your videos is an ultimate recommendation and resolution. My interpretation from what you've shown in this video is that the roof is 20+ years old. And, there are enough issues that it can't simply be patched. So, it is a complete tear off and rebuild, possibly also working some flashing up under the siding and around the windows.
Love your videos would you do a video on how you make sure your jobs are done right with the crews you have and how you vet the workers to make sure they do the job you want. I think it will help a ton of guys get good trustworthy workers. Thanks
You have to treat them like they know nothing and train them exactly how you want it done plus find "roofers" willing and wanting to do an excellent job. Not bs good enough job. Anyone wanting and willing to learn would be my go to. Dealing with lifetime do shit jobs and think there amazing can take a hike. But you also have to take what's available unfortunately 😱
Always learn something new from your videos. Question, you obviously do complete roofs as well but do you take on as many repairs as it seems you do? Awesome if you do cause repairs tend to lead to getting the complete job in the future.
That D-style metal edge sits at a 90 and forces those shingles to cup at the end. It forces water behind the gutter and eventually rots out fascia (gutter pulls away etc). IDK why but most roofers in this area improperly use this metal edging when they should be using an obtuse bend gutter apron. Extremely common in my area (Missouri).
Do you have a crew on payroll or do you subcontract your installers? Some of them hire guys off the street. Would like to see a video of your crew from start to finish?
I sprung a leak in the valley on my steep roof. I don't qualify to get any kind of loan to get a new one. I've got to fix it myself with what I got. The shingles are about gone from last years storm and one or two since. Nothing I can do but fix it the best I can till I can save for a new one. So I've got tin. I'll have to buy just enough shingles if I can get enough $ from all the scrap steel I've been saving over the year's. I'm going to get a tin roof little by little because I've got a lung condition that just keeps me from super manning a roof together in one day. But since I got to start one valley asap using tin and just enough shingles along side the tin do you have any suggestions? I'm going to try to make it a wide valley to eliminate as many rows of old shingles as possible. I do own my home and this is probably my last stop unless I can ever get the whole place fixed and sold by the time I'm 65. Fingers crossed. Currently in my mid 40's.
We all know some of the insurance assessor's are crap contractors that went bust. They may get one that couldn't pick bad craftsmanship for the life of him coz he would have installed it the same. So I would say put in minor hail damage across the face and wind damage where shown. If they approve it hooray, if they say " nah bro that was installed by a work experience kid" then oh well was worth a crack.
"Shingles aren't designed to waterproof a roof, just shed water off a roof." If they aren't designed to be waterproof when installed correctly, then why would nail placement matter? If the real waterproofing is the underlayment and not the shingles we shouldn't care about nail placement because the underlayment will just catch the water instead. Isn't it more accurate to say they're only designed to be waterproof to water flowing straight down from top to bottom, not from the side?
Sad part is brother is a roofing name gets finished for bad quality or whatever other reason simply restart there business over just changing there name every so many years and never pay for there shit quality install
Looks like hail, maybe not enough, but in a 10 x 10 square if there is at least 8 to 10 hits, I try to get the customer to file, you have insurance, why not file, why not use it, "if" its legitimate hail hits, the wind is obvious
My insurance told me it's best to pay out of pocket when you can because the insurance will use a formula to raise your rates fir so many years to make up for the loss. Rough math I did, I would pay slightly less over the years if hiring g a contractor and not doing it myself. I would use my insurance to pay for it but you need to crunch the numbers I guess.
It does in the short term but long term it makes it worse. That was tar, it cracks and you seen the big hole in the top of it, that is now catching water as it comes down the roof. If you use silicone during the summer it will dry out and contract pulling the granules off and making a big flat catch for water to siphon in. The only product I could see working would be a UV resistant rubber sealant with embedded fabric. It would soak in better and not pull the granules, as well as spreading the load over 50mm or so. As long as you were careful not to make a lip with the sealant that should hold for 5-10 years. But it also couldn't have a keyway above it or you would make matters much worse.
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Well filmed. Extensive inspection. I can't even imagine walking on a10/12 without HANDRAILS!
Great video.
One thing I might consider adding to your videos is an ultimate recommendation and resolution. My interpretation from what you've shown in this video is that the roof is 20+ years old. And, there are enough issues that it can't simply be patched. So, it is a complete tear off and rebuild, possibly also working some flashing up under the siding and around the windows.
I'm learning a lot on what to look for when I watch your videos. Thanks !!!.
Good you don't have as many 10/12's in your area, as in my hood as all the homes are 10/12! Thanks for the educational update, as always.
Love your videos would you do a video on how you make sure your jobs are done right with the crews you have and how you vet the workers to make sure they do the job you want. I think it will help a ton of guys get good trustworthy workers. Thanks
You have to treat them like they know nothing and train them exactly how you want it done plus find "roofers" willing and wanting to do an excellent job. Not bs good enough job. Anyone wanting and willing to learn would be my go to. Dealing with lifetime do shit jobs and think there amazing can take a hike. But you also have to take what's available unfortunately 😱
That house definitely has some problems!
Always learn something new from your videos. Question, you obviously do complete roofs as well but do you take on as many repairs as it seems you do? Awesome if you do cause repairs tend to lead to getting the complete job in the future.
i would like to see a recap of the videos....what came from this call?
That D-style metal edge sits at a 90 and forces those shingles to cup at the end. It forces water behind the gutter and eventually rots out fascia (gutter pulls away etc). IDK why but most roofers in this area improperly use this metal edging when they should be using an obtuse bend gutter apron. Extremely common in my area (Missouri).
Good work caveman 💪💪
Oh love your channel, my favorite
alright, more training. thank you
Do you have a crew on payroll or do you subcontract your installers? Some of them hire guys off the street. Would like to see a video of your crew from start to finish?
I sprung a leak in the valley on my steep roof. I don't qualify to get any kind of loan to get a new one. I've got to fix it myself with what I got. The shingles are about gone from last years storm and one or two since. Nothing I can do but fix it the best I can till I can save for a new one. So I've got tin. I'll have to buy just enough shingles if I can get enough $ from all the scrap steel I've been saving over the year's. I'm going to get a tin roof little by little because I've got a lung condition that just keeps me from super manning a roof together in one day. But since I got to start one valley asap using tin and just enough shingles along side the tin do you have any suggestions? I'm going to try to make it a wide valley to eliminate as many rows of old shingles as possible. I do own my home and this is probably my last stop unless I can ever get the whole place fixed and sold by the time I'm 65. Fingers crossed. Currently in my mid 40's.
Always on the up and up
A bunch of junk installations here and there and everywhere
The fundamentals of roofing.
We all know some of the insurance assessor's are crap contractors that went bust. They may get one that couldn't pick bad craftsmanship for the life of him coz he would have installed it the same. So I would say put in minor hail damage across the face and wind damage where shown. If they approve it hooray, if they say " nah bro that was installed by a work experience kid" then oh well was worth a crack.
👍🏼👍🏼
Too many issues on the install for insurance or fixes. New roof needed $$$.
"Shingles aren't designed to waterproof a roof, just shed water off a roof." If they aren't designed to be waterproof when installed correctly, then why would nail placement matter? If the real waterproofing is the underlayment and not the shingles we shouldn't care about nail placement because the underlayment will just catch the water instead. Isn't it more accurate to say they're only designed to be waterproof to water flowing straight down from top to bottom, not from the side?
Sad part is brother is a roofing name gets finished for bad quality or whatever other reason simply restart there business over just changing there name every so many years and never pay for there shit quality install
Yep. Total bullshit. Scabbing there way to the top. Hiding from Leins. Etc.
Looks like hail, maybe not enough, but in a 10 x 10 square if there is at least 8 to 10 hits, I try to get the customer to file, you have insurance, why not file, why not use it, "if" its legitimate hail hits, the wind is obvious
My insurance told me it's best to pay out of pocket when you can because the insurance will use a formula to raise your rates fir so many years to make up for the loss. Rough math I did, I would pay slightly less over the years if hiring g a contractor and not doing it myself. I would use my insurance to pay for it but you need to crunch the numbers I guess.
Does caulking over exposed nails help from water intrusion or does it make no difference?
It does in the short term but long term it makes it worse.
That was tar, it cracks and you seen the big hole in the top of it, that is now catching water as it comes down the roof. If you use silicone during the summer it will dry out and contract pulling the granules off and making a big flat catch for water to siphon in.
The only product I could see working would be a UV resistant rubber sealant with embedded fabric. It would soak in better and not pull the granules, as well as spreading the load over 50mm or so. As long as you were careful not to make a lip with the sealant that should hold for 5-10 years. But it also couldn't have a keyway above it or you would make matters much worse.