Glass Bottle Laser Engraving - Everything You Need To Know To Engrave Wine Bottles
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- This video is a step-by-step guide for engraving glass bottles using a blue diode laser. I engraved some wine bottles and ran tests on some beer bottles as well. I have included different paint options, the settings I used, and I have also included a method to seal wine bottles after you engrave them.
00:00 Intro
00:48 Safety instructions
01:00 TLDR Version
01:52 Step 1- Selecting the bottle
03:00 Step 2 - Cleaning the bottle
04:25 Step 3 - Painting the bottle
06:20 Step 4 -
06:38 Step 4 - Rotary setup
08:48 Step 5 - Design
10:28 Step 6 - Speed and Power
11:51 Step 7 - Engraving
13:21 Why zinc is the best option?
13:53 Sealing the bottle
15:00 Most people leave, but keep watching
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Pretty undervalued channel. VEry nice.
Thank you so much. I'm finding it really difficult to grow the channel I would appreciate it a lot if you could share our videos in laser forums.
Keep doing content. Man you're helping people like me who don't know where to start. Jesus Bless you!
Thanks man.
Great information! Once the YT algorithm finds you, you're going to gain a ton of subscribers.
Thank you so much for your kind words and encouragement! Subscribers like you keep me motivated to deliver quality videos. 😊
Excellent video yet again and very informative! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job. Really enjoy your videos. Straight forward, great information, excellent science, and wonderful delivery. Thanks. 👍
Thank you!!!!!
Great channel here.
Smart man who helps people
Ha ha, thank you so much.
Great information, well explained. I have watched this three times. I hope I will remember it this time! 🤔😁
I'll be making one on engraving drinking glasses..... One more to remember 😂
Thanks
You're welcome!
Great stuff. Thank you. FYI, welders are taught to NEVER weld galvanized material, as the fumes are hazardous.
Good content. Thanks again!
Glad you liked the video, and thanks a lot for bringing this up. The fumes produced during laser engraving cold galvanizing compound can also be harmful if inhaled, which is why it is advised to always use proper enclosure and good ventilation during laser engraving.
@@MellowpineLasers
I would find this topic valuable:
Context: I just purchased an Elegoo Phecda (10w/455nm). It came with green safety glasses. From browsing safety glasses, orange OD6 glasses seem most appropriate. The green lenses I've shopped appear to have less (but almost ok) attenuation in the 400~455nm range, then a dip until the near infrared. In the near infrared they then again rise in attenuation.
I assume the Elegoo Phecda laser this is a 'simple diode laser', as DPSS efficiency would be prohibitive. I have read that diode lasers have multiple modes, and thus also emit multiple spectra. The problem is I have no sense of what these other wavelengths are. (Are they closely spaced to the primary wavelength, and therefore effectively filtered with similar lenses, or are they harmonically related with wide spacing?) Harmonic multiples could explain the Elegoo green lenses. Knowing the entire spectra would assist in choosing optimal safety glasses.
Thank you! Sorry for the length.
Yes Mike, that surely is a good topic to discuss. Most diode lasers are Direct diode lasers and they emit the laser within a range of wavelength, such as the blue laser mostly emits between 400 nm and 500 nm wavelength. The safety glasses provided with the laser generally have the capability to filter out all the laser rays between that wavelength.
The green glasses are good enough to block the harmful rays, but are not as effective as the orange or the red ones. However, most diode lasers also have a protective guard around the laser head, so the laser gets filtered by that guard first, and then by the glasses, which improves the safety.
Can I use the settings on the xtool p2.
i have found that is far easier to dip a bottle in dilute paint (50/50 water/tempera paint, black). i bought a cheap pitcher and dip all my glass in it. spin and dip a few times to remove any bubbles, and it creates a very nice, even coat which seems to help with the variations in shading of the engraving. love this video. thank you. very helpful in me trying to troubleshooting my cracking of the bottles (heat stress?) i think i need more speed! you're running much faster. thanks
Yes, if you are working on a batch of bottles, then it is surely more efficient to dip the bottles in the paint, thanks for sharing. 😊
And for the issue of cracking of the bottles, you should surely try faster speed or lower down your laser power.
This video was very helpful! The only question I have is what do you use to wipe the paint off with the zinc spray?
Glad you found the video helpful. 😊
The cleaning process depends on the type of coating you used. Generally, water-based paints and zinc spray comes off easily by rinsing under the water with gentle scrubbing, but if you find it difficult to scrub it off, then you can use paint thinner or rubbing alcohol for effective cleaning.
13:25 if u use the zink paint is it food safe after lastering ?
Nice instructions. BTW, which safety googles are you using in this video?
I'm using the one that came with my Ortur Laser 😁
Thank You for your videos,they are very helpful,want to ask how to proceed if we need inside engrave?
A way I can think of is to dilute tempera paint and pour it into the bottle, then turn the bottle around till you get a good coat of tempera paint inside. You'll need to use a diode laser, the beam will pass through the glass, hit the paint, the paint then transfers the heat to the glass and the inside will get engraved. Check out my glass engraving video for more details. I suggest tempera paint because it's soluble in water and you'll be able to clean it easily after engraving. You should also keep in mind that once you engrave the inside, whatever you store in the bottle would stick to the engraved portion and you might have a hard time cleaning it later. Could you please tell me why you'd engrave the inside and not the outside?
@@MellowpineLasers Just curious about all techniques for cutting and engrave . I know how difficult is cleaning inside after use the bottle . Think tempera is very good idea ,thanks.
Great tutorial and tips.
Is this melting the material (zinc) on glass, or is it really engraving into the surface of the glass (micro-shattering)?
Is there a substitute for zinc spray paint if not available in my area (TiO2 powder with alcohol...maybe....zinc with alcohol🤭)? I tried black paint thanks to great tips from your other video (Learn How to Laser Engrave Glass like a Pro using a Diode Laser!) , but I am unable to get a frosty engraving
Glad you liked it. 😊
In this process, the zinc absorbs the laser energy and transfers the heat to the glass, which causes microfractures.
The best alternative to Zinc is to use black spray paint or black acrylic paint, and for the frosty look, perform a test run to find the optimal settings that give a frosty look to your engravings. Also, do not leave the paint on the surface overnight as it can darken the engraving sometimes. It is best to engrave as soon as the paint is dry and wipe the paint off as soon as the glass cools down.
Never tried TiO2 or Zinc with alcohol, but I don't think it is a good idea as alcohol is highly flammable. Any trace of alcohol left on the surface can cause a fire.
@@MellowpineLasers thanks will try it. alcohol is just to spread TiO2 and then evaporate and dry faster
Do share your results if you try it. And make sure you allow it enough time to completely evaporate the alcohol before engraving. 😀
Good video but you don't explain the object diameter and circumference in rotary setup tab, I'm bit confused on that part cause I have my rotary setup as 80mm per rotation and 25.5mm roller diameter which does make 1 roller rotation, but when I add the object diameter should the bottle do 1 rotation aswell?
The object diameter parameter is irrelevant for rotary rollers. You don't need to worry about that. As long as your roller does one rotation, you are good. The object diameter is needed only when you are using the rotary chuck.
Question, please, how deep is the drilling and how is the depth controlled?
Is it possible to engrave a circular shape on a cup that has curves?
How much does this machine cost and its power?
The engraving on glass is not too deep. It is just deep enough to etch the glass and produce a permanent mark, and the depth can be controlled by controlling the laser power that you use to engrave the glass.
Yes, it is possible to engrave a circular shape on a cup, but if the cup have uneven surface, the laser will not be uniformly focused, and the results will not be good.
The machine I used in this video is 20W xTool D1 pro laser engraver. You can check its price here: www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting?ref=rVAr7a1K&variant=43024250339567 But you will also need to buy a rotary module to engrave cylindrical workpieces.
Great video, I tried to download your power test but the link doesn't work
I tried now, its downloading. Can you try again please?
I'm trying to make a laser engraving on a transparent green acrylic disk. I'm using a 20W fibre laser, but unfortunately, it's not working. The supplier can't help me with it but do you maybe have some tips? Thanks you very much!
Clear acrylic is difficult to mark using a fiber laser. You can try placing a reflecting piece of metal under your acrylic and try engraving it (flip your image though).
When engraving on a alcohol bottle do you have to empty the contents? What will happen if you do not?
If it's champagne its not advised to engrave a filled bottle. If you engrave on a filled bottle of alcohol the alcohol will spill everywhere if the bottle breaks while engraving. Also an empty bottle would be easier on the rollers.
We are using the cold galvanizing paint, but then having to scrape it off the image with a knife, because the paint thinner is not removing it. Any suggestions?
Paint thinner should remove cold galvanizing paint. Try soaking it in paint thinner for a while before rubbing it. Also, do not let the paint sit on the bottle for too long. Engrave it right after the paint is dry to touch and remove the paint as soon as the bottle cools down after engraving.
Do you try acetone cleaner ? For me is best after using acrylic spray paint-all paint disappear for seconds 😉
Nice informative video like usual man! I am so far behind on watching stuff due to the holidays I will need to lock myself in a room for a week with youtube, bourbon cigars and food :) I have the cold galvanizing spray but no heated workshop so I have to wait till the weather gets better here in south central pennsylvania or win the lottery and build a heated workshop! I am keeping my empty bourbon bottles to do tests on but some of them are not round but have enough of a flat surface that I think they could be engraved well just without the rotary.
Thanks man. Flat bottles would work just fine and yeah you wouldn't need rotary for that.
So you can't use the laser to remove the labels?
You could, but the bottle might get engraved here and there and it's also like using a scalpel to dig a hole. Easier and cleaner to remove it the regular way.
@@MellowpineLasers I didn't know about the paper but the cleaning lasers are used for adhesive removal. Be interesting to see if it can be done with these machines Even if it's not practical
You can use a balloon instead of masking tape to keep things from getting in the bottle.
Yes, a balloon should also do a great job at keeping things from getting in the bottle. Thanks for sharing the idea. 😊
Should NOTE what Laser, diode or c02, co2 requires NO Paint!
Yeah, diode laser requires a transfer medium like paint, while a CO2 laser can engrave without paint.
Great video as usual, I commented on one of your other glass videos to get more info on etching with a rotary, however I'm still having the same issue with cold galvanized spray on the glass, which is a brown output on no matter what power or speed. I ran a Norton white tile grid on the glass I'm using and all the squares came out brown or a shade of brown, nothing was frosted. The glass is a high borosilicate type from amazon, 16oz beer can style. I'm curious if you've had a similar issue, and if you have, is there any advice you can give me, thank you in advance.
Thank you, I haven't faced it before but I'll run some tests and let you know
Any follow up on this? I've had the same issue with cold galvanized spray and black chalkboard spray paint. It seems like the paint is being melted into the glass, leaving it with black specks or even completely black if the power settings are way off. BTW your videos are insanely helpful thank you. @@MellowpineLasers