How To Make Amazing Color Lithophanes Using The Bambu Lab CMYK Bundle!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2023
- Today I show you how to make amazing color lithophanes using the Bambu Lab CMYK Bundle! It is so easy to do! The Frame STL is free and you can get the led panel cheap too!
CMYK Filament Pack: shrsl.com/45eqq
LED Panel: shrsl.com/45eqp
Bambu Lab Printers: shrsl.com/45agu
CMYK Instructions and STLs: wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledg...
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CMYK Filament Pack: shrsl.com/45eqq
LED Panel: shrsl.com/45eqp
Bambu Lab Printers: shrsl.com/45agu
CMYK Instructions and STLs: wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/CMYK-color-lithophane-printing-instructions
Always appreciate a clean and concise video walk through. Thanks for your time!
Dude, it blows my mind out... Thank you very much for this!
OMG this is freaking awesome!!! great choice for a picture to print, classic!!!
Cool one Jim.👍 Liking those Led Panels. Haven't done a color litho yet. Will definitely check them out.
I did not expect to be this good
this is awesome, so cool of Bambu Lab to make this kis and the frame and lights available. And so cool of you to make such a detailed tutorial!!!
That is so sick! I have to give a couple of these a go.
This was SOOO helpful. Very clear directions and explanations. THANK YOU!
Great video, clear and concise, huge help
Awesome thanks!
Jim, Thanks for showing the process. I have my kit from Bambu and the LED back panel, just have not gotten around to trying it. I have been too busy with the HueForge prints. Now I can try color lithophanes
Super cool video and love your enthusiasm - thanks for sharing!
We use 3d printers to print 2d prints. We have come full circle lol
😂😂😂😆
I love it
I can't wait for my highly advanced 3D printer to tell me "can't print, low on cyan"
Too bad the opposite isnt possible
I lol’d
Thanks dir the good instruction! Really Looks cool!
Awesome Video! Thank you for the how to!
😎🔥
First print came out great! Was wondering what the other palette selections are? Would they produce different shading/colors/imaging? I'm using generic CMYK filament, not bambu's brand. Should I be using another palette selection?
Sooooo cool. I see a potential for portraits, etc.
For sure!!!
This is super cool!
This is amazing. Just ordered the filament kit using your link! Hope it gets here in time to print some xmas presents! Going to find that same star wars picture for the first one I think.
Awesome!!
Nice litho and nice work. I'll subscribe for sure.
brilliant, do you have a video on the non-colour version?
I'm always curious about the print times, what was it for the star wars color? Also I'd be interested in seeing the time lapse of the lithophane vs the the frame itself as the lithophane is a much unique style of printing
I'm getting errors with manifolds in the models produced by lithophane maker. I simplify each part and can sometimes repair them in Orca, but not always. I then try slicing it and Orca gets to 15% then hangs there. I've let it run overnight and it still never finishes. Any tips? For what it's worth, the Hueforge lithophanes sometimes cause the same issue. It seems to be detail of the parts related?
Also better results with a .2 nozzle. But as I 100% failure rate with a .2(clogging/bulging), I’ll be sticking to .4. I’ll give palette 4 a whirl tho. Cheers.
Aaaaaand just noticed the shirt. That's friggin hilarious LOL
hi, thanks for the video. i am trying on bambu studio and when i slice playe it is saying Invalid spacing supplied to Flow::with_spacing(). i am printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and tried every layer height available. thanks
Can you print one vertical position and tell us how long it will take to print? (0.12 layer height if possible)
Great video dude, what sized nozzle did you use for the print? I have just come from my old trusty and very slow cr10 printing lithopanes on a 0.2 nozzle
0.2 nozzle, he mentioned it in there
Thanks for the vid, ordered a bundle though your link
Great video. 👍🏼 You mentioned a link to Jason murph? Which link is it?
Is base height the same as first layer height? I don't have that option for non color... The setting are slightly different.... I've been using a different software for mt lithophanes but I'm interested in the frames offered so I thought id give it a try.
I have a Bambu x1c. Doing color lithophanes. I tried vertical , failed due to warping. Went flat and can't get first layer to be even with a constant flow, I'm using a .4 nozzle and followed the guidelines. What the guide doesn't provide is speeds. Especially first layer. Any help
Hi Jim, I have just purchased the Bambu CMYK KIT. can we use any white for the diffusor I have the Bambu PLA tough white, as they are out of stock of the PLA white standard
tough white works fine, used it before
How many colors did you use there? And do you have to use bambu filaments?
Of course you don't have to use the colors from Bambu. They will be the easiest with the RFID chip. But as long as you have calibrated everything right, any color matching filament will do the job
Are you able to print these veteically? I find it usually gives better quality when I print normal lithos vertical
This is def cool and great video as usual brother! The only issue I see is print quality as lithos are meant to be printed upright rather than flat. Have printed lithos for years and flat def takes away the print quality. Have you tried this process but with it standing upright and comparing results?
I haven’t made any of these yet but have heard the same about orientation. My guess though is for color, having it vertical would require exponentially more filament swaps. So it would take a lot longer and more waste. But that’s just my educated guess.
How do these look in a fully lit room? is it possible to make larger prints(i.e. modify the frame stl )? I know the led backlight is what it is though.
Hi Jim,
When we get the 4 stacked STL files do we leave them stacked on the plate or do we separate them for printing ?
When you drop them in all at once in the plate, choose YES when the pop-up comes up. That will leave them all together.
Hey Jim! My first Bambu printer, a P1S, is arriving tomorrow. Sooo...on a bambu printer we don't print lithos standing up anymore? I figured I wouldn't have to orient the litho in the direction of the Y-axis anymore since it's not a bedslinger, but I figured the best resolution would still be standing up.
In this case, it is multiple colors layered on top of each other, so it would be printed laying down. If you were doing a regular lithophane was a single white or any other color then standing up would be great. I Have seen it done both ways and I think there's two schools of thought on that.
So given the LED panel doesnt come with a cable at all.... what cable or link to cable did you use in the end to power it off the pack.
Very helpful video! I am trying to print one with the CMYK on my X1 Carbon and I keep getting the error "Invalid spacing supplied to Flow::with_spacing()". Have any ideas what could be causing that?
Where did you get the file for that clock in the back corner? Thank you
I've got a heavily modified ender 5 plus as my only 3d printer. I love the thing since I built it and when it's working it works absolutely great but I'm kind of over having to constantly tinker with the thing. I am strongly considering an X1C but also hear a bigger one maybe on the horizon. Hard decisions here, Jim!
I too have a heavily modified Ender 5 Plus, and recently got a P1P w/ AMS.
Any buyer's remorse will be annihilated once you see a Bambu Lab printer chuck out a Benchy in the time it takes to take a shower.
I was in a similar situation a few weeks ago, I have an Ender 5 Pro with all the standard upgrades (BL touch, glass bed, dual extruder, etc.) but always had to mess with it to get it to print right and still have issues with dimensional accuracy when the prints look ok. It was a really hard decision, but I went with the X1C with AMS and have been printing for a little over a week now. It certainly isn't without issues (especially the AMS ) but overall I am very happy with it. I may post a video soon comparing the prints between the E5 and X1C and go over my experience with it so far if I have time.
@RosenrotVosa Right! 😂 As soon as that benchy started coming out my jaw dropped, looked over at my Ender 3 S1 Pro and apologized.
Just do it, I have a ender 3 s1 pro running on klipper I tinkered with for last year. I got a bambu several months back it's impressive to say the least. Light years ahead from the enders not having to tinker with bed leveling and all he others constantly is so nice.
I love my new Bambu P1S except for the fact that absolutely nothing sticks to the bed without glue stick.
Hey Jim! Great video! I have not been able to find the file for the Frame, and also I do not see the LED panel any where. Do you know if its still out there? Thanks man! Love the channel!
Never mind Jim! It’s on the Bambu Wiki! I found it. Thanks again!
I have made three very cool lithophanes following your instructions and using the 4mm nozzle. Since the new update Nothing is sticking to the heat bed and 1 globed up my hot end. I can't set first layer less than 2.9 the slicer keeps giving me a flow path error. Please help was trying to make a xmas present for my parents.
Do you have a video or know where I can find how to adjust the Z offset on my A1 mini? It appears to be printing with the nozzle to close to the bed. Just carious, why do you use Orca rather than the Bambu Labs slicer? I just installed it and it looks very much like the Bambu labs slicer but there must bae a reason(s).
Does color with highlighter on white work?
How well would this work with a Prusa Mk3s+ and MMU2S? I would like to find the right colors but not sure what would work well with my Prusa.
That is amazing! How thick is the print and how much wastage do you get from the AMS? I'm thinking not a lot because its not too many layers
yeah, I'm curious with the color shifting waste, and the extra expensive filament, how much one of these costs in total. They are cool, but seems like it would get costly
I was wondering the same! When I zoomed into the stats it said the cost was a dollar and some change and then number of filament changes was 17. Not too bad, but print time was estimated at just shy of 11 hours. Still cool though
What’s the print time for that size and settings with .2 nozzle ?
Has anyone found the same or similar LED panel someplace other than BBL, they are out of stock (thanks Jim :-)
At 4:22 you say change first layer height to .15 but you type it in layer width.
Great video but can you clear something up please? At 4.20 in the tutorial you say to change the lirst layer height to 0.15 but the video shows you changing the first layer under the line width tab and not the line height tab. Please confirm which is correct.
This looks terrific. I was UNABLE to locate the link to the "FREE" Lithophane Picture Frame. Help!
The CMYK Instructions and STLs link has the file in the wiki under "frame and light guide plate printing".
How does this actually print? Is it constantly swapping colours or printing one at a time? How much poop does it generate?
How many manual changes would you end up doing if you did this without the AMS?
I'm in the process of trying one right now. generated 25x25mm to be small in hopes of quick small initial test print to see how it's looking. 459 filament swaps for a total of 15h and 3m! You definitely need an automated filament system for this. And I'm quickly starting to feel like screw this..
I went to Bambu to order the light panel but was unable to add it to my cart? Do you know if they are just out or have stopped making them?
They still make them but they sell out fast. Keep checking back, I just got some delivered today.
When going thru the website to create the stl, it wont load a preview image and also the zip file only contains a text file and no stl files. Any idea how to fix this?
If you lower the lithophane resolution (1st option) its a bit more clear (sharp) but takes longer to print. at least in the 5 i tested ... I only did .20
where do i get the picture frame from please
Bambu Slicer keeps trying to "repair" file then it closes the program.
ok so i don't have a bambu or a mmu. i am trying to print one. how do i know the color order?
When I hit Show Expected Image no image pops up
Orca changes everything. I wcould not get Bambu Studio to slice all 4 colors. I did the exact same files in Orca now I have all 4 colors. I would have never thought Orca would be better than Bambu.
Why use Orca over BL slicer?
Why is the lithophane printed flat? Usually for the white lithophanes, they're printed standing up since the resolution is higher on the z-axis vs the x-y axis.
In the video, the final product didn't look very bright unless the lights in the room were off. What say you about the brightness?
Can I get some help please when I create a Lithophane I get a error (non manifold edges) can you help me please? I have a P1P and are using Orca Slicer.
As you can see in the video, same thing for him, also same for me
Idk what causes this but i guess you can just ignore it
@@MrPotatoeAim Thank you for your reply. I will try this and see.
@@ron9581 generated one yesterday and sliced it and had no errors or further warnings but didnt print it because im still busy drying the filament xD
I think you forgot the link to the frame STL...
Thanks! I have put it in the description, and also as a pinned comment! I appreciate the heads up!
How do you know what colors to put in the ams?
the Colors you would need are CMYK.
Cyan
Magenta
Yellow
blacK
they can be used to "mix" any other color.
this is the same way 2d printers or paper color printers work.
Pretty cool. Non-color lithophanes print more crisply standing up…
Am I doing something wrong? When I use the site it only gives me a 400+B file with a text file in it instead of STLS.
The site doesn't generate STLs with every image format. JPEGs worked for me.
I'm having an issue where lithophane maker is only giving the .txt file and none of the .stl files. is anyone else having this issue? i really need some help with this since I don't know what else to do.
It only.worked once for me and then every other attempt the zip folder only provided the settings
How much waste filament ?
Not that bad. Actually! Only enough to purge between filaments and a small amount in the back between filaments. Quite minimal but the lithophones are also not very tall so that helps!
I’m having issues with the print not even sticking. No part of the print actually sticks and it just spaghettis. I went and tried to print other things and they print normal.
What printer are you using
@@dailyalpha3795 X1c. My problem was that I for some reason I ended up clicking the profile for a different printer and it kept failing. It’s all good now
SHAKE MOAR
How To Make Amazing Color Lithophanes Using The Bambu Lab CMYK Bundle!
Umm.. no shipping to US? Sadness....
They ship to the US! Go to the top right of the page and change the country.
@@TheEdgeofTech cool... many thx!
I can't get them to look any good, the colours arnt right and it's blurry
The cyan in the CMYK pack isn't cyan, it's more azure. Which ruins the colour accuracy
Crazy!! I'll have to check it out! Thanks!
Just fyi..you are going through changing the initial layer height, but what you do in the video is change the initial line width...
on 4:21 you mention layer height but change the layer width....This is wrong...your layer height remained 1.5
why does the yellow show through so much?
Whoa...I thought lithophanes had to be printed vertically.
And as a bonus, after you print one of these, you have made your own floating plastic island in the middle of the pacific ocean!
we need a crafted backlight instead of buying the bambulab one's cause he his not cheaper and no charger with it
Why do they call it a CMYK kit if the fourth color is white? CMYK is Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and blacK.
Because it's a litophane. The black color in litophanes comes from the transparency through the white filament. The thicker it is, the darker it'll look. On 2d printer you need black bc the paper is already white.
I think I’m probably missing the point, but wouldn’t you get better & faster results just printing the picture with a regular inkjet printer and putting it in a light box? Is it just the fact that they are white when the light is off, and the picture “magically” appears? You can get that effect with a real printed photo too, just put a extra sheet of paper in front of it 😉.
A lithophane isn’t a normal picture. You have to see it yourself. It looks a lot better because it emits light 😅
@@TodestelzerI guess you don't get question right. He wanted to print a white Lito, so same Effekt. But it is an old school technique to print the colors on a regular white paper and put it between the white Lito and the light source
Dude you set first layer width to 0.15, not first layer height...
This mf gonna be so mad when he discovers paper photos exist
How many "Russian wife" and "member enlargement" emails will I get when I plug my email into that website?
jeezzus jim take a drink so you stop shaking
I know right! Haha 😂
go smoke a cigarette bro or have a drink you're shaking is making me dizzy xD
Go have a joint, because your negativity is a waste of time. Pick your battles dude.
Won't lie but the end result is quite dissappointing. it looks as if someone has splashed a ton of colour on a black and white lithophane Try using pallette number 4, the printed solid one. MUCH MUCH better results
Thanks for the feedback! I will give that a try,. But I disagree, they look really good in person. I'll post some pictures on social media and you can have a look!
@@TheEdgeofTech I have the combo myself and have been tinkering with it since the day they released it. The palette they recommend unnecessarily adds a lot of yellow; other TH-camrs say “it’s an awesome retro look!”
To us printer-ees (lol) it might be but to customers and the general public it’s a bit of a mess. My sister said “that’s really cool but it’s definitely not worth selling yet, it needs a little tinkering”. And my entire family and friends agreed. Trust me, tinker with it, change the resolutions, the palettes and you’ll get much better settings. I’d recommend mine but I’m still not finished. But I know for defo that the 4th palette gives the best results
@@TheKingMJackson awesome advice!! Thank you!
I compared the two palettes, the default #1 vs. the #4. It’s a tough call. But I think #1 is best overall. #4 has better color but it’s also a lot darker and it kindof kills the 3D pop effect and just looks like a normal photo. #1 has much brighter whites and makes the 3D effect much more noticeable. The only really drawback with #1 is the extra yellow areas.