How to make it with pop up headlights: The build would be the same except for the hood. There are two main methods you can use to add studs to the hood, after which you can attach two 1x1 wedge pieces for the headlights. A variation on the first method will allow for more realistic headlights. FIRST METHOD: The first method uses one 2x4 plate in the centre and two 1x4 jumper plates (part number 41740) on either side for the hood. To keep the hood together (since the part used to attach the hood to the car is only 2x2) use two 2x2 circular plates with the rounded bottom (part number 2654) to connect the pieces of the hood. This method will leave a small gap between the hood and the bumper, but it doesn’t ruin the look of the car. A benefit of this method is that the panel lines on the hood are accurate to the real car. SECOND METHOD: The second method is to use the 4x4 tile with studs along one side (part number 6179) for the hood, with the 1x1 wedges at the corners for the headlights. This method does not require any pieces on the bottom of the hood as the hood itself is made from one piece (which makes it more durable and eliminates the gap between the hood and the bumper caused by the first method). However, I personally think the exposed studs on the hood look better on the top corners (as in the first method) rather than between the headlights as in this method. THIRD METHOD: Realistic headlight version (In my opinion, the best of the three methods) If you prefer, you can use the 1x1 bracket (part number 36840) and a clear 1x1 tile to make the headlights more realistic. This headlight change will look the best with the first method (tweaked slightly). The change in the build is to use 1x3 tiles in place of the 1x4 jumper plates, and attach the headlight assembly directly to the circular plate with the rounded bottom. This is because the extra pieces on the headlight assembly make the headlight too tall when they’re attached to the jumper plates as before. This hood is a little more fragile (since the 1x3 tiles are only attached with one stud), but it by far looks the best out of all the variations. It also doesn’t leave any exposed studs on the hood, unlike the other two methods. If want this version of the hood to be more sturdily built, you can sacrifice the placement of the panel lines and make the top of the hood entirely with four smooth angled tiles (part number 14719) and a 1x2 tile between the headlights. This method leaves many badly placed panel lines, but the entire hood assembly is a little more stable. It’s really up to you to decide what you want and what to trade off with these methods. I personally chose to sacrifice a little stability in favor of a cleaner look and accurately placed panel lines. If you display the build, I recommend making a copy of the original hood design so you have the option to display the car with the headlights down. Edit: I actually built the car and updated this comment with new details based on my experience implementing these methods.
@@lexthemystic3541 got the slanted studs put the one on one 90 degree angle peace (don't know the name of it) then put a clear stud on that then made a costume hood for it so that they could be on
You can find parts lists for my builds through this link: poseidondesign.wixsite.com/peteybird Click on the picture to download the parts list. You can then import it into bricklink.com where you can easily order the parts. Good luck!
Yes, there is actually. Just go to my webpage and you'll find a parts list for each of my cars. Then upload the parts list into Bricklink.com to order all the required parts easily. Here's the link: poseidondesign.wixsite.com/peteybird
Hi Ryan, here's a link to my website. You can find parts lists for all the cars here. Just import these into bricklink.com, and you'll be able to buy the parts yourself. poseidondesign.wixsite.com/peteybird
I really like how you solved the rear windscreen. Keep up the good work! You have a new suscriber here.
Thanks! That means a lot to me. Your channel has been a great inspiration for me :)
Good on ya mate
Weeww
Can you make a 1970 Dodge Charger
0:40 I love that you do this. Really helps to gather the parts and to see if I have all of them.
Initial D!!!!! I do miss the pop up headlights but this is still awesome work. Can't wait to see more!
It's better if it has the pop up lights but this is really cool I wanna buy it xdd
My second time watching Initial D and this build was perfect all it needed was interchangeable popups headlights
Really nice build!
Damn it's just 🔥
I love how you lay out the parts needed thats Awsome!
Thanks Nick! It takes a lot of time so I’m really happy that someone appreciates it ☺️
@@PeteyBird aww you don't need to make it perfect btw your cars are nice
How to make it with pop up headlights:
The build would be the same except for the hood. There are two main methods you can use to add studs to the hood, after which you can attach two 1x1 wedge pieces for the headlights. A variation on the first method will allow for more realistic headlights.
FIRST METHOD: The first method uses one 2x4 plate in the centre and two 1x4 jumper plates (part number 41740) on either side for the hood. To keep the hood together (since the part used to attach the hood to the car is only 2x2) use two 2x2 circular plates with the rounded bottom (part number 2654) to connect the pieces of the hood.
This method will leave a small gap between the hood and the bumper, but it doesn’t ruin the look of the car. A benefit of this method is that the panel lines on the hood are accurate to the real car.
SECOND METHOD: The second method is to use the 4x4 tile with studs along one side (part number 6179) for the hood, with the 1x1 wedges at the corners for the headlights. This method does not require any pieces on the bottom of the hood as the hood itself is made from one piece (which makes it more durable and eliminates the gap between the hood and the bumper caused by the first method). However, I personally think the exposed studs on the hood look better on the top corners (as in the first method) rather than between the headlights as in this method.
THIRD METHOD: Realistic headlight version (In my opinion, the best of the three methods)
If you prefer, you can use the 1x1 bracket (part number 36840) and a clear 1x1 tile to make the headlights more realistic. This headlight change will look the best with the first method (tweaked slightly). The change in the build is to use 1x3 tiles in place of the 1x4 jumper plates, and attach the headlight assembly directly to the circular plate with the rounded bottom. This is because the extra pieces on the headlight assembly make the headlight too tall when they’re attached to the jumper plates as before. This hood is a little more fragile (since the 1x3 tiles are only attached with one stud), but it by far looks the best out of all the variations. It also doesn’t leave any exposed studs on the hood, unlike the other two methods.
If want this version of the hood to be more sturdily built, you can sacrifice the placement of the panel lines and make the top of the hood entirely with four smooth angled tiles (part number 14719) and a 1x2 tile between the headlights. This method leaves many badly placed panel lines, but the entire hood assembly is a little more stable.
It’s really up to you to decide what you want and what to trade off with these methods. I personally chose to sacrifice a little stability in favor of a cleaner look and accurately placed panel lines.
If you display the build, I recommend making a copy of the original hood design so you have the option to display the car with the headlights down.
Edit: I actually built the car and updated this comment with new details based on my experience implementing these methods.
the ultimate drift car
Initial D licensed building brick sets: th-cam.com/video/hWjHQj1E4Xs/w-d-xo.html
Subscribed! You are amazing! Please try to make a Nissan 240sx
its really looking good . its pretty same like my ae86
I build Toyota AE86 and 85, but when i wach that video - I build new Toyota! Keep going!
Thanks! And good luck with building
A Levin variant would be cool
* eurobeat intensifies *
this is a nice car
Good job
Initial D Forever
I HAVE ALL THE PARTS IN CORRECT COLOR LETS GO
Thank you
You are good person
that's actually pretty accurate honestly for an 86, but could you build a BMW M3 GTR (from nfs most wanted)?
If only the bonnet was more square/boxy but then again that is the closest you can get for something this small
Nice build!!
Edit:can someone give me the song when he starts building plss?
This is great
Lego should hire you
Love it!!!
Bro I just built it and I love it !!!
That's great! I'm glad you like it :)
@@PeteyBird yeah I really do like this build, the only thing I changed on it was I made the hood black and made pop up headlights
@@ashtonbyrne4316 How'd you make the pop-up headlights?
@@lexthemystic3541 got the slanted studs put the one on one 90 degree angle peace (don't know the name of it) then put a clear stud on that then made a costume hood for it so that they could be on
@@lexthemystic3541 it's kinda confusing lol
do toyota mark 2 please
Is there a way to buy the pieces? Like the ID number or something, I’m sorry but I’m super new to this and such a noob
You can find parts lists for my builds through this link: poseidondesign.wixsite.com/peteybird Click on the picture to download the parts list. You can then import it into bricklink.com where you can easily order the parts. Good luck!
i wanna build but i think the part is quite rare
What Lego sets did you use
I wanna build this!!!!
I don’t have the pieces tho
😭
Same here 😭
I do but different colors 😪
same
I build BLACK TRUENO
But is there a Levin version?
Rydog5392 Nice.
Is there somewhere you can list each indiviidual part so i can order it and try build it myself? thanks...
Yes, there is actually. Just go to my webpage and you'll find a parts list for each of my cars. Then upload the parts list into Bricklink.com to order all the required parts easily. Here's the link: poseidondesign.wixsite.com/peteybird
Nice
holy shit this is so difficult im trying to build this out of my lego scraps lets just say that 2 by 1 with the dot in the middle is difficult to find
They are called jumper plates. I mostly buy mine through Bricklink.com
INITIAL D
something seems familiar about that car
i guess its a case of deja vu
aw man, no POP UP UP N DOWN HEADLIGHTS but cool anyways
U know the song too? :DDD
could you maybe tell me which type of tires and rims are you using i cant seem to find them anywhere
Is it possible to use the 50745 mudguards? Awesome moc btw
Yes that shouldn't be a problem. Although you'll end up with a slightly different looking car. Thanks!
i cannot find the pieces to attack wheel at the front.... oof
R.i.p
is there somewhere where i can purchase the pieces for this?
como puedo cargar las piezas a briclink?
You need to download the file from my website, and then upload it as a wanted list in Bricklink.
Does anyone know where I could buy one of these I’d pay 30😣
Hi Ryan, here's a link to my website. You can find parts lists for all the cars here. Just import these into bricklink.com, and you'll be able to buy the parts yourself. poseidondesign.wixsite.com/peteybird
DEJA VU
I hate you
Cringe
@@bird20040 no u
Thanks! I made this on roblox lol
(Eurobeat intensifies)
Круто
2:14
*OOF*
It's Tofu Time
Kinda looks more like a 1979 Mazda rx7
Гонщик нелегальный !
LEGO DORIFTO!!!
No
this is levin not trueno
lol
サバンナRX-7にも見えるww
れんちゃんねる さんそれなwww
У меня нехера не получилось no 👎 de
F u
dislike, there's no paper cup with water on it
First