Note on transmission tuning. It can help to adjust the final drive, and then see how your first and second gears feel. If you’re noticing first gear feeling to long or short, adjust it to the feel the way you need. Then make sure your last gear isn’t way off the graph. Then space the gears in between as evenly as possible. That way your entire transmission has the acceleration/top speed you’re seeking, and the feel is nice and smooth through all the gears. I hope that makes sense and helps some people getting into tuning.
First, I use the final drive to get the smoothest and best acceleration off the line with the fist 3 gears full throttle. From there I do everything just as you described.
Diagnosing a car and tuning it is probably the easiest way to learn all this information. Cars in these sim games feel like such a mystery. I never feel like I guess a car's problem correctly.
I've been using pretty much the same method for calculating my sway bars since FM6 with mild adjustments depending on the game. I balance them to the weight distribution and then to the gross weight, so the larger sway bar will be about 1% of the gross weight. The formula I use could use some tweaking, but for the front bar I use the equation F = V(0.01D) and for the rear bar I use R = V(1 - 0.01D). F and R will be the Sway Bar sizes, with V being what I refer to as the Weight Variable, and D is the Weight Distribution. Multiplying D by 0.01 just puts it to percentages, and subtracting 1 from that for the rear will give us the rear distribution. The Weight Variable is the tricky one, as I will slide it up or down to get the larger bar to where I want it. For an example, let's say we're looking at a car that weighs 2862lbs with a 53% distribution. Set D to 53 giving us F = V(53 * 0.01) reducing down to F = V(0.53). Now we know that the front bar will be larger so we'll set F to 1% of 2862, so for this we'll use 28.6. If we plug that into F our equation will become 28.6 = V(0.53), or V = 28.6 / 0.53. That will give us roughly V = 53.96 which we'll round to V = 54. Now that we have V we can find the Rear Sway Bar. Plugging into our equation we'll get R = 54(1 - 0.53). That will simplify to R = 54 * 0.47, giving us R = 25.38 which we'll round up to 25.4 That means that for this car with a weight of 2862 and a distribution of 53, we'll have a front sway bar of 28.6 and a rear of 25.4, giving us a good balanced base that will allow you to raise or lower the front or rear by small amounts to balance out understeer and oversteer. Jesus, why does it feel like I just typed up a college thesis for this one TH-cam comment?
That seems a bit stiff to me for that weight. Funny tho cuz my values are about equal to half your outcomes, then I add about 10% to feel less wavy, or 20% to feel more stiff (depending on the car). I find some vehicles feel better with a stiffer setting and some feel better with the lower setting. Side note. I use a sim racing wheel, not controller.
Quick thoughts on certain aspects of tuning your cars. My post will contain mostly meta stuff, also FH5 and FM are very similar when it comes to tunes. My knowledge about this comes from 2,000 hours in FH5, spent in competitive lobbies and discord servers, listening to what the really fast players like ESV Mars, Green, GRT Breezy etc. have said and shown: - FRONT CASTER: It should never be below 5,5° as long as you don't wanna build a drift car. In fact, there's really no downside to maxing out caster to 7,0°. It will stabilize your car and if you do this for all of your cars, you'll have a solid median to adjust your camber settings afterwards. Low caster settings = loose handling and less response. - ARBs: They don't work as you think they do. The higher the setting, the more grip you'll have. Meta for FH5 was max settings in the front for FWD and max rear for RWD/AWD. This is pretty much the same for FM now. High ARB setting = more grip on that axle. The balance between the front and rear determines if your car leans towards over- or understeer. - AERO: max out the front downforce in every scenario. This will help with front end grip and is absolutely needed if you want to survive fast corners. Rear wing downforce however is mostly determined by how grippy or slidy you like to have your setup. More downforce = more grip, less top speed and vise versa. - DIFF SETTINGS: For starters, stock settings work well enough on most cars with a few exceptions. If you want to achieve more grip however, throw your irl knowledge out of the window. Because this is Forza we're talking about, irl settings don't make sense here; especially for FWD cars. As counter-intuitive as it sounds, keep your accel settings between 70-100% for all cars. Decel settings should be between 0-30. This results in your car achieving more grip overall, but requires some precision and coasting through corners, especially in FWD cars. Now I know what you may think about meta settings, I thought the same for a long time. These settings will be a bit challenging to learn at the beginning, but will ultimately help you with becoming a better and faster driver overall, since you have to focus on your driving style.
Thank you for the tips! I'm new to the series and was sooo confused as to how certain alien drivers on twitch were so quick and stable, despite me having the same no-assist controller settings and similar smooth inputs. That front caster trick alone has just solved my entire week of confusion and frustration! Just a quick follow up question: With ARBs all siffen up, won't you have issue going over rapid turns and hills, like Eau Rouge at Spa? Or can that be dealt with Springs/Damping settings alone? Also, could you recommand me some trust-worthy tuners out there? :)
Front wheel drive cars benefit from high negative camber at the rear. For example irl, a Mini Cooper S has around -4° of camber at the rear, and many performance builds have around -3.5° for front wheel drive cars. This gives more rear stability in high speed corners without the need for extra downforce in some cases. It also allows you to run a tighter stiffness on your ARBs at the back, which means you can fight your understeer more with the ARBs on the front without having to go too loose.
I’ve been tuning my own cars for like a decade, My friends would just buy a car and max the upgrades then try to compete. I was always leaving them. Cool to see everyone’s starting to tune now
I posted this in the Forza forums but I like the progression system. Being able to buy the car once with credits, upgrade with CP and make changes with upgrade while getting CP refunded when applicable is a great system in my opinion. I respect others that don't like it but I don't understand why such discourse.
I love the car leveling. No more spending 200,000k on a car and then maxing the car out with more spending. You need to level up and learn the car. Then again I have always been a RPG gamer so I find leveling up and progression ideal.
Really helpful guide. One HUGE thing that would be incredibly helpful and is missing, is an actual use case. While I understand most settings like downforce and gearing, things like tire pressure and alignment are harder to get right. Example, with tire pressure, the statements made around raising and lowering seem to give positive benefits, how do I know when I want to raise or lower them based on what a given car is or isn't doing? Example, I have a car that is understeering (won't turn in and is being pushed into a corner), do I want to lower them for more grip or raise tire pressure for more control? Also, you reference providing a "base tune" - what are the base tune values to start with?
Would love to see an example video with a single car taking laps and making adjustments based on how it performs. The explainations don't click for me unless I see it laid out like that. "On this corner we always want to jump this curb, which is tossing us wide, so we will soften the suspension..." etc...
I do tire pressure last. Usually I use for that little extra grip, oversteer, or if I need understeer. Rwd I use at least 3 psi hire than rear. That's why I say it's best to use tire pressure last for fine tuning
Really good information. I guess the follow up to this series is to learn how to take the telemetry in game and use that to adjust out tunes. Basically that's where I'm at. Any help on that front would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for making this guide! Before this game i only played forza horizon, but i wanted to give motorsport a try and I'm loving it. However i really don't know what I'm doing with tuning, but i do like fiddling around with it and experimenting to get better results. If during practice i wasn't hitting the target time, instead of lowering the difficulty, i tried to adjust my tune to make the time. And it has actually worked for me so far, and i discovered that i really like that aspect of the game. But i wanted to know more so i could tune better and actually have an idea of what I'm doing exactly.
Going back to this video for a couple hours now!! Truly helpful. I hope you’ll actually put out more of an in-depth guide. Nobody has anything in terms of tuning guides on this new game yet. You break it down even better than some of the bigger Forza TH-camrs . I’m not sure what exactly still applies from Horizon 5 or FM7 but that’s what I have to go on plus basic automotive knowledge if that was to apply here which I think some of it does. Love the new suspension options thank god 😅 especially for muscle cars. Having a blast
Sir do you have any precise help for the rebound and bump damping as to where to start considering the physics have entirely changed? Every car is different but increments are daunting I have a math disability, so the suspension is daunting, but I have figured out the gear tuning thanks to one of the people here❤ Getting there I hope new physics are daunting with dyscalculia (math learning disability) so with a calculator at least I can do 5% incremental increases or decreases and go from there. Hopefully that’s something. I figure anything less than 5% increases or decreases isn’t enough to notice a change unless we are talking tire pressures. Half a percent is huge there.
Thanks a lot for this video, it is very helpful. I have been taking notes as I watched the video. Because the game forces you to stick with stock parts and it unlocks racing parts over time I find it makes it more approachable to tweak and experiment because early on for example you only have antiroll bars to play with.
Oh boy this is all so complex. I've never played a motorsport game, I played a decent bit of Forza Horizon 5 and always got by on borrowing tunes from the find tunes feature. But I saw that, until you level a car completely, you won't have access to all the upgrades/tuning features, so I thought, if I won't be able to borrow a complete tune until I've fully upgraded a car, I should probably learn how it works so I can do the partial tuning myself. But this is just soooooooo much, it's a completely different language. I feel like I need a phd in physics and 10 years experience as a mechanic in order to get into this lol. None of this makes any sense and each option has like, a kajillion number range, I have no idea how to dial those in. Watched your guide and HokiHoshi's and still feel lost. I might have to just deal with the losses until I level up the car enough to be able to borrow complete tunes. Great video though, very thorough and I assume for car people it'll be very helpful.
Nahhh, im in the same boat as you. Its better to learn how to do it yourself so you can adjust accordingly to how you play and what you need, not what other people need from a car. Plus its wayyy more satisfying
@@triple466 I feel you wholeheartedly. At the very least, I've given motorsport a shot, and it's still fun even if I don't know what I'm doing. You can just hit auto-upgrade and the car and leave the tuning alone, and sure it probably doesn't handle as perfectly as a tuned car, but you can learn the car and adapt. And there are racing series in multiplayer that make you race stock cars, so the tuning won't matter then anyways.
Thanks for the very expansive explanation, I’m new in forza motorsport and I still don’t get why in online my car feels so damn slow in comparison (I need to improve a lot 😄)
Man I SUCK at tuning I’m doing the C8 series and I keep messing around with the tuning of this car but I end up flying out of a corner 😂. I’ll put more time and testing in to this and hopefully I get the hang of it. Thanks for the vid.
Great video thanks. One query around tuning of the ARBs. At 10.05 you state that stiffening the front ARB will reduce under steer. I believe logically this is the other way around. A softer front ARB will cause the car to lean on the outside tyre increasing the grip which will therefore reduce under steer. Did you mean stiffen the rear ARB as that does reduce understeer for the inverse reason? Sorry to point this out but ss you say ARBs are an important aspect of tuning and it would be good to get some clarification. I appreciate that excessive roll with not enough camber will cause more under steer so it's not a single variable. 👍
The PSI on the tuning screen is the hot tire pressure!! So don’t set your pressures at 27 and expect them to heat up to 30 or 32 psi. The tuning PSI is your target PSI.
@@aor980 a bit of physics that explain this : "The outside temperature has an impact on tire pressure" When the temperature is high, the air in your tires takes up more volume, whereas when the temperature is cold, the air takes up less volume. less volume = less pressure more volume = more pressure
Wheel rotation is on to keep an eye on as it can vary quite a bit between some cars. Jump to in car with wheel and check if you wheel lines up with the cars wheel when turning.
So, for tyres, what is the “correct pressure window” or temperature window? Don’t think the guide mentions this other than what upping/lowering pressure roughly does. Is stock pressure a decent baseline (doubt it), is there a psi target when tyres at racing temperature (as per ACC), psi offset between front and rear tyres depending on whether FWD or RWD? Given tyre pressure can be quickly adjusted even on lvl 1 cars in career mode or SPEC cars in multiplayer, I think more information on this would benefit everyone.
28 psi in both front and rear is a good starting point. This accounts of FM's cars in general. If your car is biased heavily to one end (like the Audi #44 R8 LMS with 58% rear), raise the pressure of that axle a bit. A good example on how not to handle it is the starter Subaru ST209. It's a nightmare from the get go, having 40 psi front tp stock. That's a setting that you'd apply for transporting new cars that stand around long, but not what you want in a car for actually driving it ;D
@@DDxRaptor for the tip I don’t know how much is gonna carry over from horizon 5 knowledge wise but I’m gonna experiment over the next couple days with tire pressures. I assume you wouldn’t want hot tires in the beginning of a circuit race😂
Apparently 32-34PSI when at racing temps (checked via the telemetry) is optimal. Pretty hilarious when some of the Touring Cars are set up stock with 36 at the front and 28 at the back. So weird and careless.
I find the Porsche Mission R has really poor grip when it's not travelling at a high speed, what would you recommend to improve it's traction and grip? Thanks.
People are saying psi needs to be close to 32 psi I’m in e class and my psi was 25 I looked at tire temperature and they heated evenly so are they fine?
Ty sir! Sub earned as no one has guides on tuning yet. I assume it’s radically changed here. Greatly appreciated. The progression system while not terrible is not ideal. I do see what they’re going for, but it needs some serious tweaking. I really hope more of the most recent cars from Forza Horizon 5 Migrate to Motorsport.
@@Tracker-Two-Two.oooh I do have that I’ll have to look! Should help somewhat despite my mathematical disability. It makes suspension the most overwhelming process.
@mattmanley7118 only thing with the app is it tunes the car no matter if you have the upgrades or not and it shows when driving. Another words if you don't have upgraded roll bars you can't tune that part. I'm starting to confuse myself so I'll shut up but you'll figure it out I'm sure.
Obviously this is going to depend on what track you’re tuning for, but why is having the acceleration to get to this reduced top speed with the shortened gearing more important than outright top speed?
If you are getting "lift off oversteer" when you come off the throttle, then reducing the decel setting on your rear diff (RWD / AWD) can help reduce this. If you are oversteering within the braking phase, then move the braking balance towards the front (higher number) should help reduce rear tyre lockup. This is assuming that the handling balance of the vehicle is otherwise ok - if not, sort the overall balance out first before focusing too much on differential etc.
@@Vaiscrew Cool - glad that's sorted. Softening the rear anti roll bar will definitely help - it will adjust the overall balance of the vehicle more towards understeer. Definitely best to get the overall balance optimised through elements which alter the overall balance first, then fine tune with elements which have a more specific effect (such as diff / braking balance etc.) Problem is, all the guides give you a list of multiple items which can be changed to affect the overall balance - and certainly when coming in as someone who maybe has a general understanding of what they want to achieve, but not really the intricacies of the specifics, it can be quite daunting to know which setting to focus on - or if you should be looking at multiple in tandem. I use an app mentioned by others in the comments - ForzaTune Pro - which gives a solid base tune for a vehicle and track type, then allows you to specify tweaks (such as overall balance, turn entry balance, etc.). I've found after using this for years, that it has given me a much better intuitive understanding of what might need to be changed than may necessarily be gained from reading / watching guides (helpful though those are as far as the general concepts and process are concerned). Highly recommended...
@sorrowinchrist3387 the game does a good enough job of a base tune for most cars. Some cars I don't even mess with the caster and camber because of its already at place. Some cars are bad, had one with a neg toe front and a pos toe rear but that's rare. Other people tune every car as well tho. FRF rogher is a big tuner. He had a tune for every car in FM7, frf cezar is good, and mookie has really good tunes.
Can anyone teach me how to stop the car from oversteering? I've tried everything and I can't get it to stop in any setting. No matter the speed, the back is always skidding.
10:01 - Stiffening Front ARB's DOES NOT reduce Understeer - Softening Rear ARB's DOES NOT reduce Oversteer' Its the inverse. 11:00 - I dont understand. Are race cars suppose to stiffen the Spring rate for predictable handling? This is the only guide that promotes soft spring rates.
Spring rate: I think he means: make the spring as hard as possible but as soft as needed for track. Spring rates and dampers is highly depending from track surface. Of course a hard suspension is faster, but on bumpy tracks it leads to many problems. Furthermore I think Forza Motorsport is a title, where you can get more advantages of softer suspension. Forza physics.... Not reality....
Been upgrading the S7 and this car has horrible under steering, downforce, camber, tow, spring rate and height and tie pressures.adjustments all done, nothing 😢
Try to lower the front arb and stiffen the rear arb by a little bit. Lowering the acceleration percentage on the Differential might help too,making the inside wheel spin faster letting you turn in better while on throttle. Adjusting the wings can help too,but only in faster corners because wing downforce only work at certain speeds.Not for corners like the last corner of Laguna Seca for example. Sorry for my bad english. I hope still understand what i'm trying to say.
It's all a mess. Perhaps for those who already understand so much it may seem simple, but for those like me who do not understand anything about setup is just a mess. I understand that it's very nice to get closer to reality, but then you lose hours to do a setup and you lose more time doing the setup than a race. Are there no generic settings to give? Do you have to move everything? I'm already losing patience😅
"Toe IN" should be positive values and not negetive ones, as it is in reality and it's correctly stated in the box on the right. The labels appear to be reversed. I reported it on th official forum.
Note on transmission tuning. It can help to adjust the final drive, and then see how your first and second gears feel. If you’re noticing first gear feeling to long or short, adjust it to the feel the way you need. Then make sure your last gear isn’t way off the graph. Then space the gears in between as evenly as possible. That way your entire transmission has the acceleration/top speed you’re seeking, and the feel is nice and smooth through all the gears. I hope that makes sense and helps some people getting into tuning.
Nice tip!
First, I use the final drive to get the smoothest and best acceleration off the line with the fist 3 gears full throttle. From there I do everything just as you described.
For the lazy option, where do you access community setups already done for you?
Oh I see they are very limited ATM..I'm just not able to compete online at present with my current knowledge😢
@@JayCreatesfr bro
Diagnosing a car and tuning it is probably the easiest way to learn all this information. Cars in these sim games feel like such a mystery. I never feel like I guess a car's problem correctly.
I've been using pretty much the same method for calculating my sway bars since FM6 with mild adjustments depending on the game. I balance them to the weight distribution and then to the gross weight, so the larger sway bar will be about 1% of the gross weight. The formula I use could use some tweaking, but for the front bar I use the equation F = V(0.01D) and for the rear bar I use R = V(1 - 0.01D). F and R will be the Sway Bar sizes, with V being what I refer to as the Weight Variable, and D is the Weight Distribution. Multiplying D by 0.01 just puts it to percentages, and subtracting 1 from that for the rear will give us the rear distribution. The Weight Variable is the tricky one, as I will slide it up or down to get the larger bar to where I want it.
For an example, let's say we're looking at a car that weighs 2862lbs with a 53% distribution. Set D to 53 giving us F = V(53 * 0.01) reducing down to F = V(0.53). Now we know that the front bar will be larger so we'll set F to 1% of 2862, so for this we'll use 28.6. If we plug that into F our equation will become 28.6 = V(0.53), or V = 28.6 / 0.53. That will give us roughly V = 53.96 which we'll round to V = 54.
Now that we have V we can find the Rear Sway Bar. Plugging into our equation we'll get R = 54(1 - 0.53). That will simplify to R = 54 * 0.47, giving us R = 25.38 which we'll round up to 25.4
That means that for this car with a weight of 2862 and a distribution of 53, we'll have a front sway bar of 28.6 and a rear of 25.4, giving us a good balanced base that will allow you to raise or lower the front or rear by small amounts to balance out understeer and oversteer.
Jesus, why does it feel like I just typed up a college thesis for this one TH-cam comment?
Reading your comment made me feel like being back in math class 😂. But great formula 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Instructions to difficult. Flew off the road 😅
Bro who tf made a game for engineers only wtf
@@triple466 that’s a I feel about it sometime 😂
That seems a bit stiff to me for that weight. Funny tho cuz my values are about equal to half your outcomes, then I add about 10% to feel less wavy, or 20% to feel more stiff (depending on the car). I find some vehicles feel better with a stiffer setting and some feel better with the lower setting.
Side note. I use a sim racing wheel, not controller.
Quick thoughts on certain aspects of tuning your cars. My post will contain mostly meta stuff, also FH5 and FM are very similar when it comes to tunes. My knowledge about this comes from 2,000 hours in FH5, spent in competitive lobbies and discord servers, listening to what the really fast players like ESV Mars, Green, GRT Breezy etc. have said and shown:
- FRONT CASTER: It should never be below 5,5° as long as you don't wanna build a drift car. In fact, there's really no downside to maxing out caster to 7,0°. It will stabilize your car and if you do this for all of your cars, you'll have a solid median to adjust your camber settings afterwards. Low caster settings = loose handling and less response.
- ARBs: They don't work as you think they do. The higher the setting, the more grip you'll have. Meta for FH5 was max settings in the front for FWD and max rear for RWD/AWD. This is pretty much the same for FM now. High ARB setting = more grip on that axle. The balance between the front and rear determines if your car leans towards over- or understeer.
- AERO: max out the front downforce in every scenario. This will help with front end grip and is absolutely needed if you want to survive fast corners. Rear wing downforce however is mostly determined by how grippy or slidy you like to have your setup. More downforce = more grip, less top speed and vise versa.
- DIFF SETTINGS: For starters, stock settings work well enough on most cars with a few exceptions. If you want to achieve more grip however, throw your irl knowledge out of the window. Because this is Forza we're talking about, irl settings don't make sense here; especially for FWD cars. As counter-intuitive as it sounds, keep your accel settings between 70-100% for all cars. Decel settings should be between 0-30. This results in your car achieving more grip overall, but requires some precision and coasting through corners, especially in FWD cars.
Now I know what you may think about meta settings, I thought the same for a long time. These settings will be a bit challenging to learn at the beginning, but will ultimately help you with becoming a better and faster driver overall, since you have to focus on your driving style.
any chance we can invited to these discord servers you talking about?
What is ur xbox gt? I'd like to speak with you on some FWD Drag suspension set up
@@DehsharkxRaptor369
Thank you for the tips! I'm new to the series and was sooo confused as to how certain alien drivers on twitch were so quick and stable, despite me having the same no-assist controller settings and similar smooth inputs. That front caster trick alone has just solved my entire week of confusion and frustration!
Just a quick follow up question: With ARBs all siffen up, won't you have issue going over rapid turns and hills, like Eau Rouge at Spa? Or can that be dealt with Springs/Damping settings alone?
Also, could you recommand me some trust-worthy tuners out there? :)
Thanks yOu my< man! hahaha
Wheel guides before this and now a tuning guide? You must be embedded in my search history. Yeah that’s a sub!
Thankyou my man
Front wheel drive cars benefit from high negative camber at the rear. For example irl, a Mini Cooper S has around -4° of camber at the rear, and many performance builds have around -3.5° for front wheel drive cars. This gives more rear stability in high speed corners without the need for extra downforce in some cases. It also allows you to run a tighter stiffness on your ARBs at the back, which means you can fight your understeer more with the ARBs on the front without having to go too loose.
I’ve been tuning my own cars for like a decade,
My friends would just buy a car and max the upgrades then try to compete.
I was always leaving them.
Cool to see everyone’s starting to tune now
I posted this in the Forza forums but I like the progression system. Being able to buy the car once with credits, upgrade with CP and make changes with upgrade while getting CP refunded when applicable is a great system in my opinion. I respect others that don't like it but I don't understand why such discourse.
Completely agree. Having so much fun building cars across a series
@@SimRacingSetups I’m glad someone from the TH-cam community does. 👊🏽👊🏽
Nobody asked
I think it would've worked better if it was based on manufacturer, so that you won't have to grind for every individual car
Fantastic guide. Exactly what I needed to get me through the weekend 😂
I love the car leveling. No more spending 200,000k on a car and then maxing the car out with more spending. You need to level up and learn the car.
Then again I have always been a RPG gamer so I find leveling up and progression ideal.
Yaa i agree, i absolutely love the upgrade system in this game.
I appreciate you making this video helping everyone out so when I download their tunes it’s gonna be amazing
Really helpful guide. One HUGE thing that would be incredibly helpful and is missing, is an actual use case. While I understand most settings like downforce and gearing, things like tire pressure and alignment are harder to get right. Example, with tire pressure, the statements made around raising and lowering seem to give positive benefits, how do I know when I want to raise or lower them based on what a given car is or isn't doing? Example, I have a car that is understeering (won't turn in and is being pushed into a corner), do I want to lower them for more grip or raise tire pressure for more control? Also, you reference providing a "base tune" - what are the base tune values to start with?
Would love to see an example video with a single car taking laps and making adjustments based on how it performs. The explainations don't click for me unless I see it laid out like that. "On this corner we always want to jump this curb, which is tossing us wide, so we will soften the suspension..." etc...
I do tire pressure last. Usually I use for that little extra grip, oversteer, or if I need understeer. Rwd I use at least 3 psi hire than rear. That's why I say it's best to use tire pressure last for fine tuning
Really loving the multiplayer races in this game. Understanding the tuning can make a huge difference in a race where all the cars are spec’d the same
Wait, we are allowed to tune our cars in spec series ? I thought it was not allowed so everyone has exactly the same car.
@@lilivierit’s Bulshit it won’t let me upgrade in mp
I can tune mx5 and gt3 cars,
Not playing FWD
This is what ive been waiting on. I also use your f1 23 tubes as well.
Really good information. I guess the follow up to this series is to learn how to take the telemetry in game and use that to adjust out tunes. Basically that's where I'm at. Any help on that front would be greatly appreciated.
That would be great. I only got into running with Forza Horizon 5, but I'm hooked now.
Thank you for making this guide!
Before this game i only played forza horizon, but i wanted to give motorsport a try and I'm loving it.
However i really don't know what I'm doing with tuning, but i do like fiddling around with it and experimenting to get better results.
If during practice i wasn't hitting the target time, instead of lowering the difficulty, i tried to adjust my tune to make the time. And it has actually worked for me so far, and i discovered that i really like that aspect of the game. But i wanted to know more so i could tune better and actually have an idea of what I'm doing exactly.
This is an awesome vid to help people tune their car. Ill be watching this a few times haha.
Going back to this video for a couple hours now!!
Truly helpful. I hope you’ll actually put out more of an in-depth guide. Nobody has anything in terms of tuning guides on this new game yet.
You break it down even better than some of the bigger Forza TH-camrs .
I’m not sure what exactly still applies from Horizon 5 or FM7 but that’s what I have to go on plus basic automotive knowledge if that was to apply here which I think some of it does.
Love the new suspension options thank god 😅 especially for muscle cars.
Having a blast
Sir do you have any precise help for the rebound and bump damping as to where to start considering the physics have entirely changed?
Every car is different but increments are daunting
I have a math disability, so the suspension is daunting, but I have figured out the gear tuning thanks to one of the people here❤
Getting there I hope new physics are daunting with dyscalculia (math learning disability) so with a calculator at least I can do 5% incremental increases or decreases and go from there. Hopefully that’s something.
I figure anything less than 5% increases or decreases isn’t enough to notice a change unless we are talking tire pressures. Half a percent is huge there.
Thanks for uploading this, i was just looking for something that helped to explain it all a bit better 👍
Been tuning a Subaru 08 WRX STI ive about got it spot on for s class just a few hiccups to fix and she will be golden
first time in this channel , your job is amazing !
Thanks a lot for this video, it is very helpful. I have been taking notes as I watched the video.
Because the game forces you to stick with stock parts and it unlocks racing parts over time I find it makes it more approachable to tweak and experiment because early on for example you only have antiroll bars to play with.
Oh boy this is all so complex. I've never played a motorsport game, I played a decent bit of Forza Horizon 5 and always got by on borrowing tunes from the find tunes feature. But I saw that, until you level a car completely, you won't have access to all the upgrades/tuning features, so I thought, if I won't be able to borrow a complete tune until I've fully upgraded a car, I should probably learn how it works so I can do the partial tuning myself. But this is just soooooooo much, it's a completely different language. I feel like I need a phd in physics and 10 years experience as a mechanic in order to get into this lol. None of this makes any sense and each option has like, a kajillion number range, I have no idea how to dial those in. Watched your guide and HokiHoshi's and still feel lost. I might have to just deal with the losses until I level up the car enough to be able to borrow complete tunes. Great video though, very thorough and I assume for car people it'll be very helpful.
Nahhh, im in the same boat as you. Its better to learn how to do it yourself so you can adjust accordingly to how you play and what you need, not what other people need from a car. Plus its wayyy more satisfying
I’m so mad i just wanted to have fun and drive and it’s like I need to be a fucking engineer to play
@@triple466 I feel you wholeheartedly. At the very least, I've given motorsport a shot, and it's still fun even if I don't know what I'm doing. You can just hit auto-upgrade and the car and leave the tuning alone, and sure it probably doesn't handle as perfectly as a tuned car, but you can learn the car and adapt. And there are racing series in multiplayer that make you race stock cars, so the tuning won't matter then anyways.
Thanks for the video. Managed to stop my car understeering
Thanks for the very expansive explanation, I’m new in forza motorsport and I still don’t get why in online my car feels so damn slow in comparison (I need to improve a lot 😄)
Thank you for the advice, it is a lot to take in and apply. Always looking to learn and improve.
Man I SUCK at tuning I’m doing the C8 series and I keep messing around with the tuning of this car but I end up flying out of a corner 😂.
I’ll put more time and testing in to this and hopefully I get the hang of it. Thanks for the vid.
Great video thanks. One query around tuning of the ARBs. At 10.05 you state that stiffening the front ARB will reduce under steer. I believe logically this is the other way around. A softer front ARB will cause the car to lean on the outside tyre increasing the grip which will therefore reduce under steer. Did you mean stiffen the rear ARB as that does reduce understeer for the inverse reason? Sorry to point this out but ss you say ARBs are an important aspect of tuning and it would be good to get some clarification. I appreciate that excessive roll with not enough camber will cause more under steer so it's not a single variable. 👍
Great video. Do you have tips to manage tire wear in FWD (ex: Touring series) ?
Thank you so much for this guide. Cars feel more fun to drive and occasionally lap times improve too ✌️
stiff front ARBs does not reduce understeer it does the opposite
You keep popping up and your content is fire my friend. Got my sub, looking forward to more of your stuff.
Thanks , Well structured and informative video. 👏🏼
Hi, thank you for the guide, it helped me a lot!
The PSI on the tuning screen is the hot tire pressure!! So don’t set your pressures at 27 and expect them to heat up to 30 or 32 psi. The tuning PSI is your target PSI.
What?
@@aor980on sims like assetto corsa we use tire pressure according to cold temp tires. usually a base safe allround value is between 27-28psi
@@aor980
a bit of physics that explain this :
"The outside temperature has an impact on tire pressure"
When the temperature is high, the air in your tires takes up more volume, whereas when the temperature is cold, the air takes up less volume.
less volume = less pressure
more volume = more pressure
@@AdamL_18 it’s not what op said
Yep just saw this when looking in the tuning menu
Wheel rotation is on to keep an eye on as it can vary quite a bit between some cars. Jump to in car with wheel and check if you wheel lines up with the cars wheel when turning.
How are these guys getting such fast lap times im driving near perfect I swear
So, for tyres, what is the “correct pressure window” or temperature window? Don’t think the guide mentions this other than what upping/lowering pressure roughly does. Is stock pressure a decent baseline (doubt it), is there a psi target when tyres at racing temperature (as per ACC), psi offset between front and rear tyres depending on whether FWD or RWD?
Given tyre pressure can be quickly adjusted even on lvl 1 cars in career mode or SPEC cars in multiplayer, I think more information on this would benefit everyone.
28 psi in both front and rear is a good starting point. This accounts of FM's cars in general. If your car is biased heavily to one end (like the Audi #44 R8 LMS with 58% rear), raise the pressure of that axle a bit. A good example on how not to handle it is the starter Subaru ST209. It's a nightmare from the get go, having 40 psi front tp stock. That's a setting that you'd apply for transporting new cars that stand around long, but not what you want in a car for actually driving it ;D
@@DDxRaptor for the tip I don’t know how much is gonna carry over from horizon 5 knowledge wise but I’m gonna experiment over the next couple days with tire pressures.
I assume you wouldn’t want hot tires in the beginning of a circuit race😂
Apparently 32-34PSI when at racing temps (checked via the telemetry) is optimal. Pretty hilarious when some of the Touring Cars are set up stock with 36 at the front and 28 at the back. So weird and careless.
@@spacepig7434Where have you heard this, is it true for all compounds?
15:04 this was so helpful to learn!
Thanks good guide
Thanks for this great video 👍
I love these sort of guides!
Meee toooo they're really lovely ❤
Great tips, looking to dive into the world of tuning. What tracks would you recommend tuning at so that the car is balanced everywhere?
Great explanation
What are ideal tire temps/pressures on this edition of forza?
Pretty close to FM7 in-between 30-35 you'll be good hot. Not in the tune screen
I find the Porsche Mission R has really poor grip when it's not travelling at a high speed, what would you recommend to improve it's traction and grip? Thanks.
Thank you!!
The tire pressure value in this game is the target hot tire pressure not the actual pressure. A tot of people aren’t reading the tool tip
People are saying psi needs to be close to 32 psi I’m in e class and my psi was 25 I looked at tire temperature and they heated evenly so are they fine?
Worth it thanks for the video. What about drag cars 1320ft rwd , anti dive rear recommendation?
What are ideal temps for S/M/H tyres?
Ty sir! Sub earned as no one has guides on tuning yet. I assume it’s radically changed here.
Greatly appreciated. The progression system while not terrible is not ideal.
I do see what they’re going for, but it needs some serious tweaking.
I really hope more of the most recent cars from Forza Horizon 5 Migrate to Motorsport.
Forza Tune Pro has Motorsport on it now ... half way descent
@@Tracker-Two-Two.oooh I do have that I’ll have to look! Should help somewhat despite my mathematical disability. It makes suspension the most overwhelming process.
@mattmanley7118 only thing with the app is it tunes the car no matter if you have the upgrades or not and it shows when driving. Another words if you don't have upgraded roll bars you can't tune that part. I'm starting to confuse myself so I'll shut up but you'll figure it out I'm sure.
Obviously this is going to depend on what track you’re tuning for, but why is having the acceleration to get to this reduced top speed with the shortened gearing more important than outright top speed?
Your accelerating whenever your on the gas, but how much time do you spend at your top speed?
I was driving touring cars and the rear lose grip when I enter corner to fast what should I do
If you are getting "lift off oversteer" when you come off the throttle, then reducing the decel setting on your rear diff (RWD / AWD) can help reduce this.
If you are oversteering within the braking phase, then move the braking balance towards the front (higher number) should help reduce rear tyre lockup.
This is assuming that the handling balance of the vehicle is otherwise ok - if not, sort the overall balance out first before focusing too much on differential etc.
@@danlanceman you’re a life saver also what helped was loosening rear roll cage that was huge difference to
@@Vaiscrew
Cool - glad that's sorted.
Softening the rear anti roll bar will definitely help - it will adjust the overall balance of the vehicle more towards understeer.
Definitely best to get the overall balance optimised through elements which alter the overall balance first, then fine tune with elements which have a more specific effect (such as diff / braking balance etc.)
Problem is, all the guides give you a list of multiple items which can be changed to affect the overall balance - and certainly when coming in as someone who maybe has a general understanding of what they want to achieve, but not really the intricacies of the specifics, it can be quite daunting to know which setting to focus on - or if you should be looking at multiple in tandem.
I use an app mentioned by others in the comments - ForzaTune Pro - which gives a solid base tune for a vehicle and track type, then allows you to specify tweaks (such as overall balance, turn entry balance, etc.). I've found after using this for years, that it has given me a much better intuitive understanding of what might need to be changed than may necessarily be gained from reading / watching guides (helpful though those are as far as the general concepts and process are concerned).
Highly recommended...
Any recommendations on which creators to follow for tunes?
silly question do i need to know how to tune in the game does it matter?
No. The game does a decent enough job plus other people will tune for you.
@@allgamerprogram344 the tunning is horrible what are you saying? :)
@sorrowinchrist3387 the game does a good enough job of a base tune for most cars. Some cars I don't even mess with the caster and camber because of its already at place. Some cars are bad, had one with a neg toe front and a pos toe rear but that's rare. Other people tune every car as well tho. FRF rogher is a big tuner. He had a tune for every car in FM7, frf cezar is good, and mookie has really good tunes.
So can you have a level 1 car, no upgrades added to it, but you can buy a community tune that tunes the car like you have everything unlocked?
What setting do you have that it displays PSI and KMH I can only get PSI and MPH or KPH and Bar it's doing my head in
you know your shit mate
Can anyone teach me how to stop the car from oversteering? I've tried everything and I can't get it to stop in any setting. No matter the speed, the back is always skidding.
You got the anti-roll bars backwards.
How did you get PSI and KM/H to show? When I choose metric, I get BAR and KM/H
Will you be doing anything like this for EA WRC by any chance?
Turn full accessibility assists on and your car will level itself up.
😂
Awesome guide! Subd and liked 👍🏽
Anyone else new to tuning and rewatching this video evey time you tune a new car
10:01 - Stiffening Front ARB's DOES NOT reduce Understeer
- Softening Rear ARB's DOES NOT reduce Oversteer'
Its the inverse.
11:00 - I dont understand. Are race cars suppose to stiffen the Spring rate for predictable handling? This is the only guide that promotes soft spring rates.
Front ARBs are discribed incorrect in video, but soften rear ARBs reduce oversteer effect. That's right! Stifter rear leads to more oversteering.
Spring rate: I think he means: make the spring as hard as possible but as soft as needed for track. Spring rates and dampers is highly depending from track surface. Of course a hard suspension is faster, but on bumpy tracks it leads to many problems. Furthermore I think Forza Motorsport is a title, where you can get more advantages of softer suspension. Forza physics.... Not reality....
Been upgrading the S7 and this car has horrible under steering, downforce, camber, tow, spring rate and height and tie pressures.adjustments all done, nothing 😢
I have Forza Tune Pro. Is that good for FM too ( or later will be good)?
Kinda curious about this also.
Can anyone tell me who to tune a fast car that can drift for sharp turns but still drives like a race car.
J'adore ta voix.
I still have too much undsteer on a mid turn on throttle.. any idea what I should tune to fix this please?
Try to lower the front arb and stiffen the rear arb by a little bit.
Lowering the acceleration percentage on the Differential might help too,making the inside wheel spin faster letting you turn in better while on throttle.
Adjusting the wings can help too,but only in faster corners because wing downforce only work at certain speeds.Not for corners like the last corner of Laguna Seca for example.
Sorry for my bad english. I hope still understand what i'm trying to say.
@@matthiasrausch7017whats Arb?
Is it just me or do the stock front tire pressures seem high? Especially awd I had one that was low 30s for the rear and front was mid to high 40s
Yea they're set extremely high by default!
@@SimRacingSetups I figured, weird they aren’t just 30/30-33/33 or so like they used to be
It's all a mess. Perhaps for those who already understand so much it may seem simple, but for those like me who do not understand anything about setup is just a mess. I understand that it's very nice to get closer to reality, but then you lose hours to do a setup and you lose more time doing the setup than a race. Are there no generic settings to give? Do you have to move everything? I'm already losing patience😅
Game is frustrating shit I’m mad
I think you have got it the wrong way round re: front ARBs and understeer...
"Toe IN" should be positive values and not negetive ones, as it is in reality and it's correctly stated in the box on the right. The labels appear to be reversed. I reported it on th official forum.
How to tune in Forza? You can't, as soon as you go into the tune menu it'll crash.
Did he fart at 4:01
Better out than in 😂
this game is an alpha scam version -.-
Then save your money and don't play it 🤗
Forza 8 is just a copy and pasted version of the previous games
It's not. It's a major improvement. Cry about it on a Saturday though
@@beasley_unborn6729 I’ll see when I play it. I feel like we should’ve had many things we asked for.
No its not. I love it. Huge step forward comaring to FM7. ❤
Says someone who, by their own admission, hasn’t played the game yet 🤦♂️
@@Sharcuk Exactly, so delusional lmao. People hear other peoples opinions on the net and just stick to it like glue. Cant think for themselves anymore
This game is such a mess 😂 R.I.P Forza Motorsport.
Bye then
@@christurneruk3118 Biden?
Ww know how to read we was trying to tune the car not hear about what we can read