Dude, you are so soft-spoken and level-headed. When I'm working on my bus, and things aren't going well, I cuss and make a fool outta myself! Good idea making the air filters shorter to clear the deck lid.
Look into a Kafer bar to help support the rear frame horns and the engine won’t flex so much on acceleration. If you are using LED idiot lights that could be the issue. Sweet beetle and keep up the great work!
Thanks for all your advice and comments! I had someone else say that the horn stiffeners won’t be enough and to do a traction bar instead, I’m just afraid of it causing more engine noise in the cab so I’m still leaning towards the kafer bar because I really like that idea. I’m also about to checkout the idiot light, I have a feeling you’re right.
@@smithsgarage273 keep us posted on how things turn out. Don’t be shy about asking questions, we all learn from one another and help support each other. The multiple comments will help your algorithm 🤙
@@VWJawbreakerthank you! The vw community is so nice on here, I really appreciate it all. I’ll be sure to try out everything and be back to report, what’s your opinion on either a traction bar vs the kafer horn stiffeners?
Alternator light. If you’re using a stock speedo, the wire from the alternator signal goes to the bulb. The bulb on the speedo needs to be an incandescent bulb. If you’re using a stand alone bulb that’s not in the speedo, it also has to be an incandescent bulb. The wire from the alternator signal is “ground” and you run a hot wire to the other bulb terminal from a switched location on the fuse block and not from the ignition switch. Hope this helps.
Thank you! I’ll be sure to update everyone on my work the best I can. And as for your other comment I am gonna try to get down to the drag strip this year, I just haven’t done it yet so I’m a bit nervous but it’s on my bucket list for this year.
Along with the Transmission brace you need an engine (traction bar) I know its limited because of the exhaust you are running but the back of the engine needs to me supported. Aloha and keep up the great work.
Thank you, I had looked into it but I was worried about engine vibrations getting transferred to the body. Right now I’m exploring the brace that comes down from the shock mounts to hold up the ends of the engine horns. But I might have to bite the bullet and go for the traction bar. Thanks for watching my video!
@@smithsgarage273 Im also restoring my 66 VW bug (for the second time) I had a traction bar for years and it only mildly increased the vibrations. You definitely need a traction bar at the rear. Frame horn stiffeners still allow the engine to move too much. Aloha.
You're wiring issue is probably something really simple.. if all else fails take it to a pro.. They can probably sort it out very quickly.. I'm like electricity, I take the path of least resistance..lol.. That is a beautiful bug, and your shop is very nice too.. Well good luck with all the bug issues and I'll see you on the next video.. Take care my friend and God Bless...
Haha yeah I’ve been thinking that the whole time, that’s why I triple checked my grounds first because i thought it might be dumb and simple. Electricity is really not my thing at all, anything but electricity. Thanks for all your support! You’re always the first to comment and it’s nice.
@@smithsgarage273 You've got a good channel, and we've got to get your numbers up so you can reach out to more people.. I like your channel because it's simple and you're straight forward and without the normal BS that lots of people resort to... Mr. Smith you take care... And give Oliver my best...
Just a shot in the dark here, have you updated your dash lights to LEDs? I don't think LEDs provide enough current to 'excite' the alternator, so the alt light has to be the old incandescent style bulb (which is why it works when your test light is connected). If that's not the case, then from my experience 99.9% of electrical problems are with a ground. Cheers, love your Beetle.
Do you have a diode installed in your idiot light circuit? I remember having to install a diode to the idiot light. You also don't want to run your coil off of your alternator. It should be dedicated off your ignition switch.
I don’t but if all else fails that’s what I’m gonna do. And yeah, I’m gonna wire it that way for the permanent fix, through the alternator was just my way of checking it and making sure it worked. Thanks for watching!
Research “vw wheel hop “ You can’t just have a mid brace alone, you also need berg HD rubber mounts and Traction bar OR go all solid mounts and most importantly you have to stop frame horns from flexing and rebounding-the whole engine is cantilevered off them and that’s a lot of weight- tie frame horns into shock mounts or roll cage or just get a Truss setup, only way to stop what You refer to as engine sag or whatever you called it(it’s wheel hop)
Thanks, yeah, I didn’t know what to call it really, I did a bunch of recording in slow motion and I only ever saw the engine drop, but the wheels never hopped like usual cars do with wheel hop. The mid mount was just a last ditch effort of something easy before I go for a kafer truss or traction bar.
Dude, you are so soft-spoken and level-headed. When I'm working on my bus, and things aren't going well, I cuss and make a fool outta myself! Good idea making the air filters shorter to clear the deck lid.
Thanks man! The swearing happens off camera, haha. I have to collect myself before hitting record.
Look into a Kafer bar to help support the rear frame horns and the engine won’t flex so much on acceleration.
If you are using LED idiot lights that could be the issue.
Sweet beetle and keep up the great work!
Thanks for all your advice and comments! I had someone else say that the horn stiffeners won’t be enough and to do a traction bar instead, I’m just afraid of it causing more engine noise in the cab so I’m still leaning towards the kafer bar because I really like that idea. I’m also about to checkout the idiot light, I have a feeling you’re right.
@@smithsgarage273 keep us posted on how things turn out. Don’t be shy about asking questions, we all learn from one another and help support each other.
The multiple comments will help your algorithm 🤙
@@VWJawbreakerthank you! The vw community is so nice on here, I really appreciate it all. I’ll be sure to try out everything and be back to report, what’s your opinion on either a traction bar vs the kafer horn stiffeners?
@@smithsgarage273 this might help answer how the Kafer bar works.
th-cam.com/video/7Oz45tyEOkI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1KOegqhB-0ishrQL
Alternator light.
If you’re using a stock speedo, the wire from the alternator signal goes to the bulb.
The bulb on the speedo needs to be an incandescent bulb.
If you’re using a stand alone bulb that’s not in the speedo, it also has to be an incandescent bulb.
The wire from the alternator signal is “ground” and you run a hot wire to the other bulb terminal from a switched location on the fuse block and not from the ignition switch.
Hope this helps.
Bracket looks great, nice work!!
Re ideas - I’d love to see the interior but also an outing to the drags would be cool to see!
Such a cool beetle, I love these technical videos please keep them coming!
Thank you! I’ll be sure to update everyone on my work the best I can. And as for your other comment I am gonna try to get down to the drag strip this year, I just haven’t done it yet so I’m a bit nervous but it’s on my bucket list for this year.
You can fix the bounce problem welding 2 brackets and screwing them directly to the mid mount, instead of using de poliuretan
Along with the Transmission brace you need an engine (traction bar) I know its limited because of the exhaust you are running but the back of the engine needs to me supported. Aloha and keep up the great work.
Thank you, I had looked into it but I was worried about engine vibrations getting transferred to the body. Right now I’m exploring the brace that comes down from the shock mounts to hold up the ends of the engine horns. But I might have to bite the bullet and go for the traction bar. Thanks for watching my video!
@@smithsgarage273 Im also restoring my 66 VW bug (for the second time) I had a traction bar for years and it only mildly increased the vibrations. You definitely need a traction bar at the rear. Frame horn stiffeners still allow the engine to move too much. Aloha.
@@gillpecceuservices thanks for the advice, I just have to find a good work around for my exhaust.
You're wiring issue is probably something really simple.. if all else fails take it to a pro.. They can probably sort it out very quickly.. I'm like electricity, I take the path of least resistance..lol.. That is a beautiful bug, and your shop is very nice too.. Well good luck with all the bug issues and I'll see you on the next video.. Take care my friend and God Bless...
Haha yeah I’ve been thinking that the whole time, that’s why I triple checked my grounds first because i thought it might be dumb and simple. Electricity is really not my thing at all, anything but electricity. Thanks for all your support! You’re always the first to comment and it’s nice.
@@smithsgarage273 You've got a good channel, and we've got to get your numbers up so you can reach out to more people.. I like your channel because it's simple and you're straight forward and without the normal BS that lots of people resort to... Mr. Smith you take care... And give Oliver my best...
Just a shot in the dark here, have you updated your dash lights to LEDs? I don't think LEDs provide enough current to 'excite' the alternator, so the alt light has to be the old incandescent style bulb (which is why it works when your test light is connected). If that's not the case, then from my experience 99.9% of electrical problems are with a ground. Cheers, love your Beetle.
Thank you, that’s actually a great idea, it makes perfect sense. I’m gonna make sure to try that one out tomorrow.
Do you have a diode installed in your idiot light circuit? I remember having to install a diode to the idiot light. You also don't want to run your coil off of your alternator. It should be dedicated off your ignition switch.
I don’t but if all else fails that’s what I’m gonna do. And yeah, I’m gonna wire it that way for the permanent fix, through the alternator was just my way of checking it and making sure it worked. Thanks for watching!
I had to put a diode on my blinker wire to fix that same issue.
I actually just fixed it by switching to an old style incandescent light instead of an led one
Research “vw wheel hop “
You can’t just have a mid brace alone, you also need berg HD rubber mounts and Traction bar OR go all solid mounts and most importantly you have to stop frame horns from flexing and rebounding-the whole engine is cantilevered off them and that’s a lot of weight- tie frame horns into shock mounts or roll cage or just get a Truss setup, only way to stop what You refer to as engine sag or whatever you called it(it’s wheel hop)
Thanks, yeah, I didn’t know what to call it really, I did a bunch of recording in slow motion and I only ever saw the engine drop, but the wheels never hopped like usual cars do with wheel hop. The mid mount was just a last ditch effort of something easy before I go for a kafer truss or traction bar.
why couldn' you live near and work on everyones bug or mine at least !! :]
Haha, I already have a handful with my own. But some beetle friends would be cool to have