C10 Repaint: Painting the Cab
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Sanded the cab, masked it up, and painted it black. Looks really good. #c10, #squarebody, #c10squared, #refinish, #ppg, #ec530
Music: Mass Hysteria by STRLGHT
Tumbleweed by Tigerwood Jewel
Drive By. by Laurence Lee Murphy
I just got done sharpening the body lines on my project..he's 100% correct !!
@@user-fy2qz4ho6e thank you and good luck on your project!
Anyone who really knows how to spray knows that this guy knows too !! Looks very nice !!
@@user-fy2qz4ho6e if you know….you know. Lol. Thanks!
Mannnnn ice 🧊 🥶 🧊 🔥👌🏽
Thank you! It did turn out nice.
Amazing job. Instant Subscriber. Now Ill check out the rest of this build. Aloha from Hawaii. 🤙🤙
Aloha. Thank you and welcome to the channel!
Looks awesome. That balancing on the 5gal drum was amazing 👏🏻
Heath Brown Thanks! I was a circus performer in a prior life.
Dittos on the nice things said below. I watch you paint a faux on the cab back of a square body and saved it. I think it was two tone and had the GM badges near the door. Damned if I can find it to watch the paint and air brush show you put on. That could be its own video for 40+ minutes. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Dean and thanks for watching!
It's come along beautifully!!
Mrs. Kraft thanks!
As soon as you pulled the iwata out for clear i knew it was gonna be glass.. lol nice work sir
Hahaha. Yeah I love my Iwata. Thanks and thanks for watching!
Thank you for the steps and tips and tricks. I've never really been taught to do bodywork and paint but has manage to get decent work out of what I paint for myself. I'll be doing my c10 soon also.
JZ Fab You’re welcome and thanks for watching! Good luck on your C10 too!
👍 very nice!
Jose Rivera Thank you!
Very nice work 👌🏼
Thanks man and thanks for watching!
Beautiful work!
Thank you!
thats the best paint work ive seen wish you were here in elsa tx to do my work in my truck
Thanks Luis. I appreciate the compliment and thanks for watching!
thx to showing us what is a reel pro paint job! ;o)
Sly Stone Hahaha no problem 👍
Hey Sly. You get around to all the C10 channels...lol
@@OldeCarrGuy all info you can get is the key to make it right! so my project is a C10..all the good video to help make it happend is a blast! keep on the good work all of you guys! :o)
That’s a clean paint job! A+++++
Skywalker Thanks. It turned out really nice.
Beautiful! Man that thing is slick and straight!!!
a tip: you can watch series at flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Castiel Mekhi yup, have been using flixzone for since december myself :D
great paint job
IYIZ Jewels Isley Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great job! Looks amazing!!
Rebuild Rex Thank you!
That is so slick. Looks killer bro!
jody reed Thanks man!
Great job ! 👌 nice finish only wished I had my truck done by someone who knows what they’re doin such as yourself. Recently had my truck painted about a year ago and they destroyed it . You’ve givin me hope that there are good combo men out there who do know what they’re doin . Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Awesome. Don't know who would give this a thumbs down.
👍
Thanks!
Great job brother✌
Thank you!
Nice work You do sir
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
👍😎
O. D. B. Thank you
Nice, Attention to detail really paid off! I’m about to be re-spraying my truck later this month so thanks for the tips!
Thank you! Good luck on your truck and thanks for watching!
Starts with the sanding....
Always lol
Amazing job. Never learned how to do this kinda stuff but have been working on my 86 K20. Watching you do paint work gives me lots of tips and tricks for when I attempt mine!
Good deal man. Thanks for watching!
Dude u killed it now that's trowing the glass 👍✌️
James Pacheco Thanks man!
All that blocking sure paid off, You have a ton of patience man. Awesome
Freeride Farmer I think it’s more stubbornness than patience, lol. Thanks for watching!
Stout Custom Haha I hear you there.
Well I’m just learning this stuff and your vids have showed me how fussy you actually have to be. Look forward to watching all your vids. Again thanks for sharing.
Awesome work brother!!! Wish there were more body men like you who take pride in there work!!!
mario paz Thanks Mario, I really appreciated he comment! Thanks for watching!
Bonito trabajo
Mucho gracias!
Im in the early stages of my body work. I purchased hok black for my finish. I'm paralyzed in one arm so some of the sanding I have improvised. Thanks for the motivation and inspiration.
gearhead moff123 Welcome! Black is a lot of work but really looks good when it’s done. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
It should be a crime this channel only has 2K subs! Keep it up, ur sure to blow up!
I agree completely, lol. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom man ill tell you what, youve made me feel like giving up on my c10 project and feel like I can do it all in one day, haha. Your level of work and craftsmanship is superb vs my project that its depressing. Just keep telling myself that he has had more years at it than I, lol. But tonight I saw your video of mysterious primer contaminant and that got my head back in the game. Its not just me that has set backs. Thanks for these videos. True work of art.
@@teabag402 thanks for the kind words. It does take a while to get things going your way with this stuff. Almost have to do several all the way through to see what works and what doesn’t. Even then something can go sideways in a hurry. Keep at it. It’s worth it in the end.
At 6:30 you discussed the final sanding before red nylon pads, but it that a short stoke DA with 5/16”, interface pad and 400? Or a regular DA with a 1/4” orbital action? I have both after buying a short-stoke DA. The 35 year old Blue Point still works hard as I oil it when done and wipe and clean 3 times when reusing. Just curious. Thanks Jim.
I believe it’s the short stroke. Been a long time since I’ve looked or bought one. I think it’s more of a finishing da than aggressive style for filler work.
@@StoutCustom Exactly and works with hook & loop 1000 grit wet to sand quickly to reduce orange peel. Then 3k and up.
They stuck me at the last tech bays by the doors but next the body shop. One thing caught my I that could help if a problem, the they put a contractors bag over the paper/tape dispenser to keep it clean when sanding or general clean up. As everything become so expensive it helps to have clean tape to not waist paper as well. This was something I saw in one of the videos today. Passing it along as it sits a longtime until you need it. They rolled up the big bag, folded it and put a wooden clothes pin throwing onto the bottom tray to have when needed. I really enjoy the older 68 C10 Show Truck build and painting the cab back stripe on the 86 square body. I am partial to the 67 as like my first truck. I’ll keep watching!
@@StoutCustom Thanks Jim. I am in awe of the painted trim on the cab back of the square body. It turned out looking great. I have two hours of practice on my air brush. Like a piano, practice. Thanks for the quick lesson on shading!
Could you break down your clearing technique a bit for me? I have done a few paint jobs now and things turn out well. But I am noticing you seem to go about twice as fast than I do, and cover the same spot almost 4 times. If I left my gun set the way it is - I’d have big problems. I’m looking at 15:02 in this video specially.
It seems you have a lot less material coming out than what I set up as, it obviously works well for you. Is this one of those things where you can turn the material down when using a nicer gun? Or am I just using way too much material. I’m using a 3m Accuspray gun now, but wouldn’t mind investing in a gun for clear - any suggestions?
Thanks for all the work you put into this channel. I don’t know where you find the time! It’s as polished as your paint work.
Which accusers tip are you using and what clear?
@@StoutCustom the 1.3 tip was a no go, ended up using the 1.4. This is on the 26580 accuspray. Using PPG Production Clear.
My projects have all been black paints, with the exception of my dad’s Expedition I repaired - it was silver….so I have always been of the mindset that I don’t need high dollar clear since it is on top of black. But maybe that is a bad mindset to have?
@@gregorylaughlin1470 I haven’t used the accuspray yet but I’ve heard good things. Should do the job. There is a lot to spray technique so I will try to cover some of it in a video shortly. Lots to discuss on it
@@StoutCustom thanks! Have a great Christmas!
Awesome job!!! I have a 84 c10 that I'm working on also. Thanks for the motivation.
Clinton Rankin Thank you. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
Love the attention to detail. Wish I’d be able to get my 87 R10 done by you but I last seen you’re focusing on your projects.
This would be my first time getting the truck painted. Question is which paint to get?
I want to do the same light blue from factory which is WA7470, add light glitter that’s silver, and a pearlescent of gold. How would I achieve that and which clear coat to go with?
Yeah I’m still trying to get my C10 done. It sure takes a lot of time.
If you can find a color on a late model car or truck that is what you are wanting that is a good way to go. There should be a paint code and formula available for it. If you want to tweak the factory color you will have to find a competent painter in your area that can alter the formula, give you some spray outs to look at, and document the formula so it can be made again if needed.
As far as clear coat, there are tons of choices out there. Again I would discuss it with whomever is going to paint it. I am partial to PPG’s Vibrance 5700 or DCU 2021. Both are great clears that buff well and last a long time.
Thanks for watching Anthony!
Much appreciative for the help. My R10 is going to be looking gorgeous because of you. Continue striving and wish you well on your c10.
What exact color is this black I just got my first c10 a couple days ago it's a 86 and I'll be doing the body and painting myself and what you have Is exactly the color I want for mine
I believe it was GM factory black paint code WA8555
Your videos have helped me a lot.
I have a 1984 4x4 . it's all sanded to bare metal... I'm using PPG 2 stage paint in black and white.
Can I paint the base coat and wet sand all the imperfections out than paint the clear over it ?
Brett Johnson Steps should be bare metal, epoxy, highbuild primer, then sealer(optional), basecoat, clear. The clear is applied over the basecoat immediately after it has flashed/dried. Small dirt, dust, bugs, etc can be sanded out of the basecoat then a small amount of base back over the sanded spots, then clear after it has all dried. There shouldn’t be a lot of overall sanding of the basecoat. Only minor nibbing/sanding before clear. Basecoat is thin and not very durable so aggressive sanding would remove it entirely. Also sanding marks will show if more base is not applied over the sanded area.
I have a 1966 C-10. The body has been completely disassembled and all parts have been sprayed with epoxy and now in primer surfacer. My question is should I reassemble the body after blocking and paint or paint the parts then put it together. My concerns are with the body lines being straight and then the bolt heads being chipped from wrench during the process. Any advice on this?
Also thanks for the videos. They are well done and have been a tremendous help.
It's a back and forth process. I usually align everything the best I can before I take it apart. If there are new panels I put them on at the beginning to be sure they fit if I have them. Sometimes you don't know until after blasting what is good and what needs to be replaced. Once everything is blasted and epoxied it has to be reassembled to make sure the body lines line up and if sheet metal (rockers, cab corners, etc..) need replacing they have to be lined up with adjacent panels to make sure they fit. It's like everything depends on everything else so it has to be put together and taken apart multiple times to get everything right. Once all the bodywork is done, everything lines up, and it has been primed for the final time, then I prefer to disassemble everything, paint, and reassemble for hopefully the final time. As far as the bolts, some people replace a lot of them with stainless or paint the bolts apart and try to be careful when installing. Stainless isn't usually very strong so they can't be used everywhere. Chipped bolts just have to be repainted on the vehicle in the end. I think they make some sockets that are lined with plastic to reduce scarring on the bolts but I've never used any to know how well they work. Thanks and thanks for watching!
320 grit on the block and then what grit on the DA?
400 for solid colors or if you plan to seal or use 600 if you don’t plan to seal
How long u wait between hands of base paint and clear please can you tell
It depends on conditions but normally 15 minutes. I always check for dryness and wait longer if necessary. Thanks for watching!
i just bought a 83 sierra and it has alot of surface rust on the hood and on fenders what would be the steps i need to follow to re paint it
Probably needs media blasting to remove the rust but be careful on the hood they warp easily. May just need to replace the hood. Once it’s in bare/clean metal, apply epoxy primer, work the dents, high build primer then sand and paint. That’s the basics
@@StoutCustom thanks
u have the small block in? is it 305? or the 350?, looks badass as hell congrats
That truck had a 350. It wasn’t mine, I just did the paint n body work. Thank you and thanks for watching!
How did u lone up the doors that good I can't get bottom end flush tried with 2 buddy's helping
Some are better than others from the factory but it usually takes a lot of adjusting, beating and banging.
Was that sealer u block down and da before your base
Thomas C No sir that was primer. PPG ECP17
Amazing!!!
Two questions:
What king of wheels are they ? I would like have something like them for my square body.
Also why more scratch for black? I always thought black shows everything.
I love the way you explain everything.
Cant wait for the next video.
Bob
Baltimore Maryland
I can’t remember the name of the wheels. Someone named them in the comments somewhere but I can’t find it. Black does show wavy body work but when painting a solid color vs a metallic, you can have a slightly larger scratch for a solid than a metallic because there’s no metallic to lay in the scratch and make it show. Thanks for watching!
After sanding how do you get all the dust off before paint? Is it a bad idea to wash it?
You can use a water based cleaner after sanding to wipe it down and clean it off or you can wash the vehicle with a good detergent soap. I use dawn dishwashing soap sometimes. Just don’t use a car wash soap with any kind of wax additive in it.
Would you recommend single stage enamel or base coat - clearcoat paint? I'm working on a 1970 c10. Gonna be bright red.
Kevin K Bradshaw Either one if fine. Single stage is more forgiving. It hides some imperfections and most trash landing in the paint is covered since every layer has color. SS tends to get fairly hard so it’s harder to buff than clearcoat. Base/Clear will show more trash since anything on top of the color coat will be seen in the clear. Most clear coats can be buffed fairly easily though. So...it’s up to you. For someone with less experience and a less than ideal spray environment, single stage is more friendly. In a good spray booth either will work great for a solid color. For metallics base clear is ideal. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Nice job, looking awesome! Question on the little hood piece that sits between the hood and the windshield, can you remove it without removing the finders?
Yes. It will come off without taking off the fenders. It’s a little tricky trying not to scratch anything but it will come off.
@@StoutCustom thanks!
Thanks looks great, my I ask what brand paint do you use? Thanks
Thanks. I use PPG products
What paint manufacturer and paint code it’s nice
PPG 9835. Gm WA8555
Is that a devilbiss gun your using
I used a Sata for the base and Iwata Super Nova for the clear.
Looks awesome brother!!
Were you using a Sata 5000 or 5500 for base? Im guessing the WS400 for clear? Do you like the 1.3 or 1.4 tip for clear?
I use a Tekna Prolite for base coat. We spray RM Onyx HD (water) and use Glasurit clear. But i struggle a tad bit with peel/texture in the clear...Tried a Tekna clear coat gun, my Prolite, LPH400, now im using a W400 but still not 100% happy. Im already reducing it at a 3:1:15% ratio, so i cant really thin anymore, or atleast i dont think i can.
As soon as this Covid19 pisses off, i want to demo the Sata 5500 RP. Just want a good gun that atomizes the HS clears well and lays it on slick without much peel.
Ive adjusted so much on my technique that its making me feel like a rookie again! Lol
I hate spraying out of my comfort zone.
splash Thanks! I used my old SATA 4000 hvlp for the base. It’s always been a great gun. I cleared this one with a WS400 Supernova with a 1.4HD tip. I also like clearing with a SATA 5500RP with the 1.4I set up. Give either of those a try. The 5500 gives you the choice of I or O nozzle too. Ive found that if I’m painting a lot of cars as quick as I can (production), I lean towards the SATA with the traditional or “O” set up. If I’m not trying to go fast, I lean towards the Iwata guns or the SATA I nozzle for clear. I think the reason is that traditional SATA has a more rounded clear application profile when viewed from the side (🔫 vs the SATA ”I” or Iwata having a very straight clear application when viewed from the side [🔫. So...when I’m in a hurry, I don’t have to concentrate as much on my gun to surface angle with the SATA as I do with the Iwata. The rounded pattern is more forgiving than the very straight Iwata. All are great guns.
@@StoutCustom
Il have to try a Sata soon!
Last time i sprayed with a Sata it was a 3000...Long time ago, but i really liked that gun!
You think the 1.4 is better than 1.3? Is this for speed, or do you find it wets out better?
@splssh. For the clear I use most often, I like the 1.4 I. The 1.4O seems to put out too much material. Check with your paint rep and see if they have a demo kit so you can try the different nozzle sets. The clear you use and your style of spraying play a huge factor too.
@@StoutCustom
Once this damn virus passes and things get back to normal, i will definitely ask to demo! Thank you
What paper was on the DA?
Kathleen Ralf I believe it was 400
Details..............
Not enough ppl are seeing your vids🤷🏾♂️
banga8080 I agree! Lol.