Keith I like the fact you did not over think the design of the stop. It is made with the minimum amount of machining yet will work quite well. Some guys get caught up in spending to much time making super fancy parts when simple to the point items work as well.
It took me six years to find this video. I'm going to make one just like it. I love you Keith. I have to mill and scrape my 9" Rucker straight edge too.
Very nicely done Keith. Simple, practice, and to the point. Nice job on the video editing too. I enjoyed. Hope you and the family enjoyed a nice Christmas today! Adam
Your work is great inspiration for me to make one just like it for my 1946 Logan 825, 10" Lathe! Thank you for showing us how! Your video editing is first rate and the audio, outstanding. You sounded very much on mic, while the background shop noises were well off mic. Were you using a new mic system on this shoot? Best wishes and highest regards from snowy Buffalo, NY, Roy
Keith, as usual, your work is just awesome! First thread I ever cut on a lathe, was 7/16-14. That was my first project in Machine Shop, way back in '72 or '73. Yes, I was planning on mentioning that, when I saw you cutting that thread, and today is the first time I've seen you cutting a 7/16-14. steve
Looks like it is time to switch that 29/64 drill bit out. That sucker was a shakin!! I like the multi stop idea. I bet that would be awesome on a turret lathe. I bet that will be real handy for making those square headed bolts where you can set a thread length. a head length, and an overall length.
Pretty cool Keith. I enjoy watching other projects. It allows me to see how others handle situations as well as give me project ideas as well. Colin ;-)
One hundred years from now there will be a TH-cam video where some guy is showing the stuff he bought at a flea market. "This lathe stop was probably built a hundred years ago, but it still works and it was expertly made. I will use it on my 25-axis laser guided lathe."
Excellent project. I really liked watching how you used the bandsaw to save machining. Well thought out, and well executed. Only problem is, I stayed up waaaay too late to finish this!!!! Thanks for passing on this good info. I'm planning one for my lathe.
Hi Keith, I can see where your stop will be very useful. I have a single one on my lathe but I really like the ideo of having more than one stop. Thanks for the videos! I hope you and your family have a VERY Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year! Best Regards, Reid
Great work Keith. I always like watching your videos. This one is a design I can use on my South Bend 9" lathe. I'm also going to use some of the suggestions that might add just a little more pizazz to the project. Having your videos as a forum is as good as having a design team at work.
Very Nice! Thanks for the share...I cheated and put off my chores to watch it, he he, but now that the fog has lifted I'm all systems go. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Aloha...Chuck
Ciao Keith, lovely project. I'm making my own one for my mini lathe. On my design, I will have an interchangeable block so I can use a dial with a plunger or a dial indicator indifferently. But I understand well you philosofy to have the best with less time machinig possible. Merry Christmas and greetings from Italy.
Very nicely done, Keith. I think a nice touch would be to counter bore the pivot pin to the outer diameter of the appropriate socket, provided you have the clearance at the bottom of the blind threaded hole.
Very cool stop. Nice simple design. I'd add a hole drilled outboard and below the fixed stop, or inboard of the inner flip-stop, to fit the stem of your dial indicator with a thumb set-screw so you'd could easily setup your dial indicator and measure your stop depths. Just a convenience feature, really. But it make a nice secure location for it. Awesome work as usual, though.
Keith, that is a nice stout lathe stop you have there. Thanks for the video keep them coming and have a great 2015 young man. I have a request for you to make a piece of everyday machining tooling which incorporates a rare earth magnet. They are fun to work with, inexpensive and I bet the old timers would have used them everywhere if they were available back in the day. Have fun :)
Relatively new follower here. I gone back to the first video and I been watching them in sequence, passing over the ones I already saw, (unless I remembered there was something in that video I was interested in watch over) so I'm trying to find out when Keith decided he could trust his DRO.
Extra long drills! Extra long taps! How many times did someone ask me why did you make that thing in two pieces? Got no extra long drills, no extra long taps! Nice project. Thanks Keith, Brad
trainman4602 had one on his turret which was cylindrical, so you would rotate the next one into place, but would assume there would need to be some kind of strike stud coming out of the cross slide so only one would hit it. A lot of ways to design a piece. I like yours, too. It looks to be nice and sturdy, too. Hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas, Keith.
Yeah, the one that trainman was using would also trip out and would automatically take 3 passes to cut a thread. Definitely thought needed to set them up. I've only had a brief look at one of the screw machines up northern Illinois and how it was "programmed" by different gears/mechanisms.
Thanks for the video. Another good one. Do you think that the smaller swing arm bolts might be better during a crash. They may sheer before the machine is damaged. Hopefully the error could be fixed before the second "crunch".
Hi Keith, I enjoed a lot with this video. I want to take this opportunity to wish you and you family a Merry Christmas and may the spirit of Jesus land on your home. Hugs and kisses from my family to yours. I love you kid......warm hugs from Aruba. Vale Croes. Love you big daddy!
Nice stop, I liked that you just ground the radius by hand instead of a lengthy mill setup. I don't much care for the clamp bolt, It has bad leverage and I don't like feeling around for bolts I can't see. Probably does the job well enough, but that's what I would change. That extra shaft Adam has on the Monarch is cause for envy, stopping the feed and all. I always wonder how that could be made, perhaps with some mechanism on the apron.
I was thinking that the bolt and pin be swapped or reversed to provide better leverage if getting a wrench to it is OK or use a socket head screw. Just thinking. Roy
Keith, How can you tap an internal thread on a lathe without breaking the tap? When hand tapping, one has to turn the tap in & then back out the tap to clear the chips. How can this be done on a lathe without backing out the tap to clear the chips? Thanks for your input, Bill
I will be making one for my lathe as well - thanks for a great idea. One question; once finished what would you suggest to put on it to prevent rusting? I was thinking of heating it up and putting it in old motor oil, or simply a paint. Usually paint ends up coming off but most of the body would be covered.
+Tom Herd I keep the unit that I made hanging on my lathe most of the time, which means that it is getting oiled all the time. If you are worried about rust, you can always paint it - except for the part that mate up to other machined surfaces which need to be unpainted. You can also blacken it chemically - I know that McMaster-Carr sells some kits which is similar to bluing like you do to guns.
What do you think of swapping the pin and stud positions for the mounting clamp, so the clamping nut is closest to the clamping point? I also rethought my whole stop design, I discussed on the first video. You could keep a single swivel and make your adjustable stops snap into the swivel with a spring loaded ball and a groove in the shaft of the stops. Thanks again for the videos! Stuff like this generates ideas like the Hoover dam generates electricity!
***** Time doesn't have to be an issue if you have an efficient design. The other advantage of interchangeable stops is that the bearing point can remain close to the clamping point, so the leverage likely to cause deflection is minimized. Also, if the stop mount was on the side of the clamp, your clamp bolt could run down from the top and have optimum leverage . If one needs to clamp from the bottom, getting as close as you can is certainly best, and since leverage is a ratio, adding a little to the back, if you don't have interference, is worth it. I think keeping it at least midway along the union should be considered a minimum, if possible. Nice work, and great videos. Thanks again!
The clamp plate could have had slotted holes for the pin and clamp bolt. That way the plate could be slid forward and then tightened... less fumbling around aligning the pin. Still, nice project!
Hello Keith, Great little project,I think something like this would come in handy for my little lathe. My new to me milling machine got here this week. I'm giving it some much needed TLC before I fire it up. Its an older (I believe 1930's-ish) Brown & Sharpe #2 Universal milling machine. I actually bought it based on a few photos, had it shipped across the country and am crossing my fingers and hoping for the best. If I could ask a favour from you, I have a couple of slide shows of it on my channel. I am trying to figure out exactly which machine it is and what vintage it is. If you could help or point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated. I have watched several of your videos and think that it's fantastic that you are able to volunteer at the museum. If I came to visit, you would be hard pressed to get me to leave without helping you fix something. These are great videos and you should be very proud of the work you do there. Thanks, Ian Little
***** those Wright wrenches last forever just like the old mill vise and parallels you have in your shop. I'm sure that you would have an angle lock vise if you wanted one but there is nothing wrong with the original. I did notice the new albright chuck instead of the time proven jacobs chuck...you can't power tap using an albright because they have a tendency to seize up with a larger tap.
I notice you didn't use a sprung follower with your tap this time Keith. Was there any reason for that of was it just a case of using the tool that happened to be easily to hand?
@7:00 Why on earth did you drill the clamp piece separately? All you had to do was use the bolt to fix it in place and drill the pin hole for a perfect register. By this means you would have eliminated any chance of error and saved time as well. This would have been Good Practice. Instead you show yourself in this way to your viewers. Why do you continue to portray yourself this way?
![เจ้าผู้เดียว - ดิด คิตตี้ [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q0NLCYKBOTo/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent idea with the studs allowing for adjustment of travel.
I love the fact that you can go to a video that shows you step by step how to do a certain project, great video Keith, keep'um coming.
Once again Keith. Many thanks for sharing. Happy Christmas.
Some of the best tools are handmade That is a Nice one !!!
You bet it is! I appreciate that you showed your small error on the pin and then explained your repair. As always, great info.
That was a great little project Keith. Thanks for showing us how it's done.
Keith I like the fact you did not over think the design of the stop. It is made with the minimum amount of machining yet will work quite well. Some guys get caught up in spending to much time making super fancy parts when simple to the point items work as well.
It took me six years to find this video. I'm going to make one just like it.
I love you Keith. I have to mill and scrape my 9" Rucker straight edge too.
Very nicely done Keith. Simple, practice, and to the point. Nice job on the video editing too. I enjoyed.
Hope you and the family enjoyed a nice Christmas today!
Adam
Your work is great inspiration for me to make one just like it for my 1946 Logan 825, 10" Lathe! Thank you for showing us how!
Your video editing is first rate and the audio, outstanding. You sounded very much on mic, while the background shop noises were well off mic. Were you using a new mic system on this shoot?
Best wishes and highest regards from snowy Buffalo, NY,
Roy
thanks for todays lesson Keith, always a treat to see what your working on!
Enjoyed Keith, nice build along with your description/ instruction
You have done a very nice job Mr Rucker thanks for taking time to share with us
Nice project Keith I remember seong this a while ago and have a need for something similar so went looking and found this many thanks
Thank you for your time and excellent instructive productions, I really enjoy and learn from your uploads. Best Regards from all over here in the UK.
Very nice Keith! Looing forward to the project you designed it for!
Thanks for sharing your idea!
Jeff
I didn't understand exactly what you were making until the very end. Now that I see it in action it's really a pretty genius tool! Nice work!
Again very nice work Keith !
Awesome stuff, this is a simple neat-o project that anyone can do, and i'm willing to bet that it can be adapted on any lathe on this planet.
Nice project...nicely done. Thank you Keith
keith nice job also like your bandsaw push stick,marry christmas---bob
Keith, as usual, your work is just awesome!
First thread I ever cut on a lathe, was 7/16-14.
That was my first project in Machine Shop,
way back in '72 or '73. Yes, I was planning on
mentioning that, when I saw you cutting that
thread, and today is the first time I've seen you
cutting a 7/16-14.
steve
Looks like it is time to switch that 29/64 drill bit out. That sucker was a shakin!! I like the multi stop idea. I bet that would be awesome on a turret lathe. I bet that will be real handy for making those square headed bolts where you can set a thread length. a head length, and an overall length.
You make it look easy. Thanks for another great video.
Very well done video. Commentating was excellent and camera was very good. I learned a lot watching your set ups. Thanks.
Keith,
Nice job! As always, I really watching your videos and learning something along the way. Thanks!
Happy Holidays!
Dave
That came out really well, Interested to hear about the upcoming project.
Merry Christmas
Nicely done Keith, it turned out great!
Thanks,
Ray
nice work and a new tool for the shop ...
thanks for the video.
No fuss, no muss! Simple, effective, and good enough for most.
Looks good Keith, Happy holidays to you and your family!!!
Razor!
such a great craftsman
I need to make one of these for my lathe. This video was very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
Good job, keep the great videos coming Keith.
Turned out grand !
Nicely done, good job...
Excellent editing and presentation Keith that looked very professional.
that stop turned out great!
Hi Keith,
Nice and functional, the way to go...
Happy Holidays to you and family,
Pierre
Keith You did a very nice job, This has been on my build list for a while. Thank you for posting.
Thanks Keith, I am watching your video on Christmas Eve after family has gone home, Merry Christmas and best wishes for the new year. Harvey
Pretty cool Keith. I enjoy watching other projects. It allows me to see how others handle situations as well as give me project ideas as well.
Colin ;-)
One hundred years from now there will be a TH-cam video where some guy is showing the stuff he bought at a flea market. "This lathe stop was probably built a hundred years ago, but it still works and it was expertly made. I will use it on my 25-axis laser guided lathe."
You are right, Victor!
Excellent project. I really liked watching how you used the bandsaw to save machining.
Well thought out, and well executed.
Only problem is, I stayed up waaaay too late to finish this!!!!
Thanks for passing on this good info. I'm planning one for my lathe.
Great work. Thank you
That's a nice 3 in one stop! I want to make one now.
Hi Keith,
I can see where your stop will be very useful. I have a single one on my lathe but I really like the ideo of having more than one stop.
Thanks for the videos! I hope you and your family have a VERY Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year!
Best Regards,
Reid
Nice Job Keith! I really enjoy watching your videos.
+Doorguru Thank you!
nice project keith ,merry christmas to you and yours ,dave in the uk.
Great work Keith. I always like watching your videos. This one is a design I can use on my South Bend 9" lathe. I'm also going to use some of the suggestions that might add just a little more pizazz to the project. Having your videos as a forum is as good as having a design team at work.
Very Nice! Thanks for the share...I cheated and put off my chores to watch it, he he, but now that the fog has lifted I'm all systems go.
Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Aloha...Chuck
Very nice piece of work Keith and thank you -- could well be something like that in my future! :)
Ciao Keith, lovely project. I'm making my own one for my mini lathe. On my design, I will have an interchangeable block so I can use a dial with a plunger or a dial indicator indifferently. But I understand well you philosofy to have the best with less time machinig possible. Merry Christmas and greetings from Italy.
Very nicely done, Keith. I think a nice touch would be to counter bore the pivot pin to the outer diameter of the appropriate socket, provided you have the clearance at the bottom of the blind threaded hole.
erowidoz I considered doing that and it would probably be an improvement.
GREAT JOB. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
Hi Keith
Nice straight forward job. Practical and well executed.
LAL
That was a great build Keith .. Will be handy for production work !!
Right on ..!!
Very cool stop. Nice simple design. I'd add a hole drilled outboard and below the fixed stop, or inboard of the inner flip-stop, to fit the stem of your dial indicator with a thumb set-screw so you'd could easily setup your dial indicator and measure your stop depths. Just a convenience feature, really. But it make a nice secure location for it. Awesome work as usual, though.
Nice job!
Nice job.
Keith, that is a nice stout lathe stop you have there. Thanks for the video keep them coming and have a great 2015 young man. I have a request for you to make a piece of everyday machining tooling which incorporates a rare earth magnet. They are fun to work with, inexpensive and I bet the old timers would have used them everywhere if they were available back in the day. Have fun :)
Merry Christmas Sensei
nice little project Keith turned out well
merry Christmas and a happy new year
i think i am going to be in hospital over Christmas i have the same complaint as adam booth and its started playing up a few days ago wish me luck
thank you keith i just feel so ill right now
Very nice, job well done!!!
....13
Great Video Keith!! Will have to see if can find a few of those long Pulley taps! Great Project! :-)
Relatively new follower here. I gone back to the first video and I been watching them in sequence, passing over the ones I already saw, (unless I remembered there was something in that video I was interested in watch over) so I'm trying to find out when Keith decided he could trust his DRO.
Extra long drills! Extra long taps! How many times did someone ask me why did you make that thing in two pieces? Got no extra long drills, no extra long taps!
Nice project. Thanks Keith,
Brad
Nice!
I'm in the process of drawing one up-----------------------Thanks
I hope you have a great Holidays
A great side trip from the Crescent Key Plugs project.
+John Strange Sometimes you have to make a tool to do a job!
I've seen in some cases where a tool has to be made to make another tool in order to ultimately restore a vintage tool. :)
***** Hey Keith, would you mind sharing the solidworks files? I'd like to scale that design down a little bit. for my Rivett.
got a six position indexing one with really long adjustments on our swedish lathe. yet to be needed.
trainman4602 had one on his turret which was cylindrical, so you would rotate the next one into place, but would assume there would need to be some kind of strike stud coming out of the cross slide so only one would hit it. A lot of ways to design a piece. I like yours, too. It looks to be nice and sturdy, too.
Hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas, Keith.
Yeah, the one that trainman was using would also trip out and would automatically take 3 passes to cut a thread.
Definitely thought needed to set them up. I've only had a brief look at one of the screw machines up northern Illinois and how it was "programmed" by different gears/mechanisms.
Thanks for the video. Another good one. Do you think that the smaller swing arm bolts might be better during a crash. They may sheer before the machine is damaged. Hopefully the error could be fixed before the second "crunch".
Hi Keith, I enjoed a lot with this video. I want to take this opportunity to wish you and you family a Merry Christmas and may the spirit of Jesus land on your home. Hugs and kisses from my family to yours. I love you kid......warm hugs from Aruba. Vale Croes. Love you big daddy!
***** Like I wrote before....you make me happy with your nice videos. Keep good. Vale Croes.
Nice stop, I liked that you just ground the radius by hand instead of a lengthy mill setup.
I don't much care for the clamp bolt, It has bad leverage and I don't like feeling around for bolts I can't see. Probably does the job well enough, but that's what I would change.
That extra shaft Adam has on the Monarch is cause for envy, stopping the feed and all. I always wonder how that could be made, perhaps with some mechanism on the apron.
I was thinking that the bolt and pin be swapped or reversed to provide better leverage if getting a wrench to it is OK or use a socket head screw. Just thinking. Roy
Nice :)
I'm pretty sure there will be some sort of upgrade to it once you start using it in operation.
good one how are you going to make a part stop for the material you are using ?
Keith,
How can you tap an internal thread on a lathe without breaking the tap? When hand tapping, one has to turn the tap in & then back out the tap to clear the chips. How can this be done on a lathe without backing out the tap to clear the chips?
Thanks for your input,
Bill
I will be making one for my lathe as well - thanks for a great idea.
One question; once finished what would you suggest to put on it to prevent rusting? I was thinking of heating it up and putting it in old motor oil, or simply a paint. Usually paint ends up coming off but most of the body would be covered.
+Tom Herd I keep the unit that I made hanging on my lathe most of the time, which means that it is getting oiled all the time. If you are worried about rust, you can always paint it - except for the part that mate up to other machined surfaces which need to be unpainted. You can also blacken it chemically - I know that McMaster-Carr sells some kits which is similar to bluing like you do to guns.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org
I think I will go with blackening of some type.
I really appreciate that you communicate with us!!!!
Tom
What do you think of swapping the pin and stud positions for the mounting clamp, so the clamping nut is closest to the clamping point? I also rethought my whole stop design, I discussed on the first video. You could keep a single swivel and make your adjustable stops snap into the swivel with a spring loaded ball and a groove in the shaft of the stops. Thanks again for the videos! Stuff like this generates ideas like the Hoover dam generates electricity!
***** Time doesn't have to be an issue if you have an efficient design. The other advantage of interchangeable stops is that the bearing point can remain close to the clamping point,
so the leverage likely to cause deflection is minimized. Also, if the
stop mount was on the side of the clamp, your clamp bolt could run down
from the top and have optimum leverage . If one needs to clamp from the
bottom, getting as close as you can is certainly best, and since
leverage is a ratio, adding a little to the back, if you don't have
interference, is worth it. I think keeping it at least midway along the
union should be considered a minimum, if possible. Nice work, and great videos. Thanks again!
The clamp plate could have had slotted holes for the pin and clamp bolt. That way the plate could be slid forward and then tightened... less fumbling around aligning the pin. Still, nice project!
great video but would it have clamped better if the bolt was where the pin is? Or do you think it matters?
Not criticising just asking
Hello Keith,
Great little project,I think something like this would come in handy for my little lathe. My new to me milling machine got here this week. I'm giving it some much needed TLC before I fire it up. Its an older (I believe 1930's-ish) Brown & Sharpe #2 Universal milling machine. I actually bought it based on a few photos, had it shipped across the country and am crossing my fingers and hoping for the best. If I could ask a favour from you, I have a couple of slide shows of it on my channel. I am trying to figure out exactly which machine it is and what vintage it is. If you could help or point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.
I have watched several of your videos and think that it's fantastic that you are able to volunteer at the museum. If I came to visit, you would be hard pressed to get me to leave without helping you fix something. These are great videos and you should be very proud of the work you do there.
Thanks,
Ian Little
Pretty neat, how do you like those Wright wrenches, I like mine but I wish they were a little longer.
***** those Wright wrenches last forever just like the old mill vise and parallels you have in your shop. I'm sure that you would have an angle lock vise if you wanted one but there is nothing wrong with the original. I did notice the new albright chuck instead of the time proven jacobs chuck...you can't power tap using an albright because they have a tendency to seize up with a larger tap.
Great versatility and very inspiring! Learned a bunch as usual. How about a thumbscrew to lock the stop instead of a wrench?
That makes sense. Maybe an unobtrusive lever of some sort would work better.
I notice you didn't use a sprung follower with your tap this time Keith. Was there any reason for that of was it just a case of using the tool that happened to be easily to hand?
+morelenmir You know, I have to admit that I really don't remember why I did it that way - that was a long time ago now.... Sorry...
is this solid works file published anywhere?
Like! Mike A. Drover
That looks like my tap wrench. Black body do you know what brand it is?
In the U.K. We call your C clamps G clamps because they look more like a G than a C.
!!!!!! need to rewire that switch on the band saw before the fire marshal see that! Hope he isn't watching??
***** Post a picture so i can see what is really going on there. look at time 1:20 to 1:30 on video
You made a slot on that because you wanted to Right. LOL
@7:00 Why on earth did you drill the clamp piece separately? All you had to do was use the bolt to fix it in place and drill the pin hole for a perfect register. By this means you would have eliminated any chance of error and saved time as well. This would have been Good Practice. Instead you show yourself in this way to your viewers. Why do you continue to portray yourself this way?