You might reconsider the clamping bolt, as the socket head screw will accumulate chips and become non-adjustable. That is why the old time lathes have big square heads on their screws that get adjusted a lot. Thanks for this video!
They came out great, it's something I've been wanting to make for my lathe, but because of the way I built it, I haven't yet come up with a way to do it, but it will pop into my head sooner or later. 👍
Now you can make one for the tailstock side of the carriage ;) I have one each side and it is quite handy at times. That's as good a design as I've seen and made mine very similar. I like being able to tighten with a spanner or Allen key as finger tight is not good enough IMO and also difficult to access when working close to the headstock. Cheers Rob
Yes, I have seen the issues with clamps that you tighten by hand. Particularly when you have a large saddle bumping up against the stop. Thanks for watching.
Nice work (again) one thing to be wary of - where the the adjuster touches the carriage. On this particular lathe and a host more from China, etc - this area long with a host more are often bogged up and painted. Castings are poorly finished so they spray prime or bog up to get a nice finish. Over time your adjuster will dig in to the bog. Not a huge problem, but given you're going for accuracy with repeatability with this stop, i'd either clean the bog/paint off that particular area, so you're limiting on the raw body or the carriage, or drill and tap a bolt (with flat head) in like your other lathe. Your could also put a boss with sprung ball indent on this bolt with different length of bolts for a multi length quick adjust stop, by rotating the stop........
Just a cautionary comment, I made one very similar for my lathe (LuxCut 3300x1000) and parked it at the right hand end of the bed as you have done. All was well until I swapped the 3 jaw for a collet chuck. Unfortunately the collet chuck has less stick out and I failed to notice the carriage run into the stop under power with a consequential apron gears damage. With some replacement parts from the machine supplier I was able to repair lathe. Incidentally I am the second owner of this lathe and am now registered on the retailers records. Cheers Clive
My lathe has a clutch that can slip. It is both a blessing and a curse (fast feeding overpowers the clutch), but given my skill level, the forgiveness of a clutch over a rigid geared connection between leadscrew and spindel, I'm going with blessing
That's a really sharp looking stop there! Very nice. On your carriage, I noticed a spot where the stop is work through the paint. I had that problem using an indicator as a poor man's DRO on the bed and it was causing bad readings for me. I ended up making a 3/4" dia. steel pad that mounts on the carriage and has three M3 jacking screws to get it square to the lathe bed.
Yes, I see that mark on the paint as well. My other lathe has something specifically on the carriage where the stop touches it. I should put something like what you have done so that the stop position is consistent. Thanks for the tips.
My Austrian lathe is around 95 degrees, but it has an even bigger offset from being perpendicular to the lathe bed. It was a bit of trial and error work to get the angle cut in the steady rest which I made for that lathe. Thanks for watching Michel.
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Great little but practical project. Love the way you calculated the angles.
Thank you.
Great project. Great craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing.
No problem, thanks for watching.
You might reconsider the clamping bolt, as the socket head screw will accumulate chips and become non-adjustable. That is why the old time lathes have big square heads on their screws that get adjusted a lot. Thanks for this video!
Thanks for the tip.
Another top notch upgrade 👍👍👍👍
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing 👍
No problem.
Well, that put a stop to that! Nice work.
Thank you.
They came out great, it's something I've been wanting to make for my lathe, but because of the way I built it, I haven't yet come up with a way to do it, but it will pop into my head sooner or later. 👍
They are really useful when you are turning a step on something and you need to stop in the exact same place on each pass. Thanks for watching.
Now you can make one for the tailstock side of the carriage ;) I have one each side and it is quite handy at times. That's as good a design as I've seen and made mine very similar. I like being able to tighten with a spanner or Allen key as finger tight is not good enough IMO and also difficult to access when working close to the headstock. Cheers Rob
Yes, I have seen the issues with clamps that you tighten by hand. Particularly when you have a large saddle bumping up against the stop. Thanks for watching.
Very nice. You did a great job blueing the part.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Good pace to the informative video, well behaved comment section, what's not to like? Subscribed:-)
Thanks for watching and the sub.
Nice work (again) one thing to be wary of - where the the adjuster touches the carriage. On this particular lathe and a host more from China, etc - this area long with a host more are often bogged up and painted. Castings are poorly finished so they spray prime or bog up to get a nice finish. Over time your adjuster will dig in to the bog. Not a huge problem, but given you're going for accuracy with repeatability with this stop, i'd either clean the bog/paint off that particular area, so you're limiting on the raw body or the carriage, or drill and tap a bolt (with flat head) in like your other lathe. Your could also put a boss with sprung ball indent on this bolt with different length of bolts for a multi length quick adjust stop, by rotating the stop........
Thanks for your comments. Yes, my other lathe has a bolt for the stop to bump against. I was thinking of doing something similar.
Just a cautionary comment, I made one very similar for my lathe (LuxCut 3300x1000) and parked it at the right hand end of the bed as you have done. All was well until I swapped the 3 jaw for a collet chuck. Unfortunately the collet chuck has less stick out and I failed to notice the carriage run into the stop under power with a consequential apron gears damage. With some replacement parts from the machine supplier I was able to repair lathe. Incidentally I am the second owner of this lathe and am now registered on the retailers records. Cheers Clive
Thanks for the heads up. I don't have a collet chuck for this lathe yet but I will look at that issue when I do get one.
My lathe has a clutch that can slip. It is both a blessing and a curse (fast feeding overpowers the clutch), but given my skill level, the forgiveness of a clutch over a rigid geared connection between leadscrew and spindel, I'm going with blessing
Great job John
Thanks Matty.
That's a really sharp looking stop there! Very nice. On your carriage, I noticed a spot where the stop is work through the paint. I had that problem using an indicator as a poor man's DRO on the bed and it was causing bad readings for me. I ended up making a 3/4" dia. steel pad that mounts on the carriage and has three M3 jacking screws to get it square to the lathe bed.
Yes, I see that mark on the paint as well. My other lathe has something specifically on the carriage where the stop touches it. I should put something like what you have done so that the stop position is consistent. Thanks for the tips.
I never understood why they don't just make the angle at 90°. It would be much easier. But no, lathe beds always have this strange angles.
My Austrian lathe is around 95 degrees, but it has an even bigger offset from being perpendicular to the lathe bed. It was a bit of trial and error work to get the angle cut in the steady rest which I made for that lathe. Thanks for watching Michel.