Does anyone have a good recommendation on soundproofing without adding a second wall? The architect original drew it up as a double wall, then changed it last minute back to single.. What would you guys do? I'm looking into Rockwool insulation, but in the meantime I'm air sealing from one unit to the next.
A lot of codes now wont allow staggered studs in a partition wall between units, doesnt meet fire and sound codes. Our area code asks for double 2x4 walls and insulation in both
My drywall guy recommended insulation and laminated layers of 1/2" drywall which worked out great in our house between the units. You can go and install those fancy dandy resilient channels which lift the drywall off the wall this not transferring noise, but it has a unique installation system and to be honest the former method works just as well at half the cost. Plus you get the added fire rating which keeps the inspector happy. Happy inspector = easy life.
also sooo great you keep the repetition going even tho you've reviewed it many times since your channel started ... nail patterns ... general build practices ... it's great you always review it for new subscribers tooo
I like your method on assuring to never miss a stud when nailing a shearwall! Can you please make a video of the installation of apa portal frames and strong walls?
2x6 plates with 2x4 studs staggered to break the transfer of sound vibration from one side of the wall to the other. You're still building two 2x4 walls, just sharing the plates to save thickness.
Hey Matt! Great Videos! I enjoy watching them. I just wanna say Thank You for helping me understand, every detail Front to back and why its done that way. Great Work Matt
Nick at NS Builders has a couple of episodes showing how they handled soundproofing a shared wall. One interesting thing they used was "putty pads" around electrical boxes to reduce through sound transmission. They also used product called Quietrock and Green Glue acoustical sealant.
If you don't want double wall thickness then vertical strapping on the zip and then run resilient channel horizontally to screw your final surface into. Gives a good sound break in just a couple inches of thickness. Extra credit for some heavy felt under the strapping and filling the normal wall void with insulation.
In my experience, some sonopan combined with some rockwool could help to cancel some noise out on that single wall. Never seen a single wall seperate two buildings like that!
1st thing to say, I am not a builder. You asked my option on sound proofing the single wall in between the garages. The liquid flashing needs to be around all edges of the zip sheathing and all other studs. Use safe and sound between studs. Use silent rock over the zip sheathing on both sides. If code allows it. Never install any outlets or switch boxes on the dividing wall of the garages. If the boxes are used the only hope is the use a mold around the boxes and the silent rock will be useless because Those boxes become amplifiers. And I was surprised to see they allow zip inside the garages! All of these options are expensive. You have a great channel Matt, and I can always learn from you...... But I am the one person you would never hire... well I’m not sure which side of the hammer I need to use or which end. Cheers to you all.
For soundproofing, 2x6 framed wall is best if not more, safe n’ sound rock wool insulation 2 layers thick, 3/4” plywood or osb sheathing with caulked seems, and finish it with 5/8” fire code Sheetrock and leave a 3/8” gap on the ground that you fill with backer rod and caulking. Big stretch caulking is one of the best for acoustic caulking and it’s not too expensive. Just finished a music studio and that’s how the 11’ walls were structured. Also seal any outlets or switches on that wall with spray foam.
Multifamily projects use staggered 2x4 studs @ 8" o/c nailed to 6x plates for their corridor walls. That way the drywall on the inside unit is not attached to the same stud as the drywall on the corridor side. It helps mitigate sound transmission.
It's been mentioned at least once in the comments, but take a look at the Quietrock drywall products- excellent STC improvement over standard drywall. The marketing claims one panel of Quietrock is equivalent to 8 sheets of standard 1/2" drywall when it comes to sound dampening. Unfortunately it's $50+/panel, but at least the option exists. Great channel btw, thanks for sharing!
I’ve built some music studio walls...main concept is to change the material from each layer. The different densities of the various materials is what causes different frequencies of sound to reduce the speed of its travel...the more the densities change, the sound will eventually dissipate. Adding layers is costly, but is very effective. With a layer of mdf, then Sonopan, then 5/8 rock on either side with rockwool safe and sound in the cavity, you’ve been laughing. Key is to ensure all joints and penetrations are sealed (ie. using liquid flash like lepage’s acousti-seal or green glue with a strip of some sort of tape on top to keep the mess down). Hope this helps
Thought that was the reason you guys were using nails instead of N18 staples for your sheeting. Just depends on where you are at. Love the ZipSystem sheeting, awesome stuff.
great work. one cheap way to sound proof without a second wall is add 5/8 type x drywall. but add two layers on either side of the wall. it will meet crazy fire requirements.
When space was an issue, our sound engineer would spec 2x6 plated with 2x4 studs-staggered (still with 5/8" drywall on resilliant channe.) This reduced the impact sound transmission and yeilded pretty good results.
Love that you label/note your shearwalls. If I’m doing a strap and shear inspection on a large multi-family project that has 5 different types of ply shearwalls, this helps so much.
Hi Matt, The APA states that 8D nails should be used to attach 1/2" structural plywood to the studs. Nail charts state that an 8D's nail shank and length are 0.134" x 2 1/2", respectively, but I'm only able to find .131" x 3" nails for my 21 degree nail gun. What size nail do you use for 1/2" structural plywood on 2x4 studs? Also, do the nails have to be ring shank? Your expertise would be much appreciated as well as any brand recommendation. Thanks for the video!
Hey Matt, you ever heard of Acoustiblok for soundproofing? It is a thin membrane that you can use for a multitude of applications, in homes, automobiles, and etc. I want to try this product if I am able to build my home.
Could you not use a Dry core system when your running a single wall between 2 units. Just a thought and not sure if your California codes support this product. I know your rough framing but as I said just a thought.Thank you.
Make sure the studs of the second wall are on different center measurements. That way the drywall diaphragm on one side is independent of the other side breaking the transmission of sound from one side to the other. This can be done with a single wall. However the plates would need to be slightly wider so the studs for each side can be offset so they only have contact with the drywall of one side and not the other. You will use less wood than if you built two walls. I hope that makes sense.
run a sound proofing membrane under your sheathing that would effectively prevent sound from passing through the wall. You can even have the membrane on both sides of the wall to make it even better. It would increase the width of the wall by (2)(membrane thickness) and the price may be cheaper depending on how much it would cost you to build the second wall.
Try to put some sonopan panels and resilient channels on each side of the walls. I don't know if you've got this kind of material on the US but that's what we use here in Montreal!
To sound proof a single wall between two units, first install Rockwool "Safe-n-Sound" between the studs, then use "two-leg" resilient RC-2 sound channel attached to one or both sides of the single wall. Attach your drywall to the resilient channel.
David, the problem I foresee is the cabinetry needs to hang off of that wall for both units.. I don't know about hanging cabinets off of a channel. What do you think?
@@MattBangsWood Hmmmm.......I've never dealt with hanging things on a demising wall where I've used sound channel. However, I think if you used mounting screws for the cabinets which are long enough to go through the sound channel and well into the studs, you should be okay to use sound channel.
@@vaewyn True, but how much coupling do you think will occur? Coupling will be limited to the number of screws to mount the cabinets Matt has in mind. He won't be coupling the entire wall.
Matt.... the only solution to soundproofing is to create a double wall with a 1 inch air space that's the only thing that works to try to control sound transmission
Tim, we're looking into our options with double wall. Thinking a 2x4" interior with a 1 inch space between the two. One side of the duplex will lose space.
Refer to Steve Bakers comment. This is the same process I use in NC and FL. We will also sound proof bathroom walls, adjoining BR Walls and garage/int. walls. Two cents for two cents... bang on
I’m going to guess you’ve hit zero pipes since you started marking them on the foundation. Or maybe 1. Also, to your soundproofing question: have you tried staggered studs?
instead of 5/8th drywall use double 1/2" and then you put sound proofing caulk on the studs and 2 faces that touch. The theory is, sound loses energy each time it changes density. So its like if you have a sandwich with just bread and meat, that would transmit more sound than a sandwich with meat and veggies and sauce and bread. But, its probably less work to just build 2x 2x4 walls and stagger the studs. But I have heard its code to then drywall the inside space, but I think that's for firecode and you can beat that by using rockwool bats. And you could still use that sound proof caulking between the 2 top plates
Keep up the good work matt Hows the nr83a u got recently working out for you? Im looking for 1 . I use the nr83a2 and nr83a2s but i want the nr83a orginal
Owens Corning Rigid Fibreglass batts. They’re the best. They have one product that is a combination of thermal and acoustic properties. Check them out.
ok so zip systems sheathing for the side. not your typical plywood eh? which leads to why : A lot of builders like the Zip system a lot because it eliminates what has always been a troublesome step in the building process. That is, carefully installing large sheets of plastic around the entire house, carefully lapping it at seams, and more carefully cutting and taping it around windows and doors so it directed any water to the exterior. Just thought of something since i see sheathing going inside? Why is it inside? did you do a video on how to take care of bows in the wood for the obvious reason when laying up sheeting or dry wall. It won't be flat
Rock-wool insulation, loaded vinyl curtain and 5/8 drywall, maybe even double drywall and you’ll be able to shoot canons. Not sure that insulation and drywall is your job but that would be a decent path.
Drywall hangers install a fiber board they call a sound board. If mem serves the sheets are 3/4" and they install it along with a metal "hat" track, then for fire code on common walls they install 2x 5/8" fire-rated sheet rock, and if the flooring system does not get a product like gip-crete for fire rating, then they also hang the 2x5/8" fire-rated sheetrock on the ceilings in apartment buildings. That's what I remember as Drywall Taper living in the Ozarks, Missouri, up to 2008, when the new construction appartments and spec homes dried up, and I was a Production Taper at the time with 25 years in, and well, you just didn't send the tattooed 6'5", 325lbs smoking, and every other word fu*k guy to the remodel, so I went back to tattooing full time. Now, after watching tattooing turn into a retil sales job, I put on a set of bags and have been helping a friend frame decks. Although my knowledge of the trades is vast, I had only swung a drywall hachet, and for my first 2 weeks as a 45-year-old learning a new trade, I used the only hammer I owned and knew. The boss made fun of me until he saw I could swing it. He had to repeatedly stop me from using the hatchet side to "adjust" or "hack" lumber to fit. I did not hang sheetrock, but I did learn, and my stepfather taught me sheetrock does not pay enough to lift it twice, so if it does not fit, that's what your hatchet is for; make it fit, and we can deal with the gap when we tape and finish the job. Thanks for doing videos like this; they have really helped me understand the "why" behind so much that I am doing at work these days!
The best insulation I know for sound is a product made with demin ie used blue jeans. Its called Bonded Logic. Linus Tech Tips used it for their server room to keep the sound down which it did for them. Lowes sell a R19 that has 5 piece bag that goes to 93" in length with the 15" width. It runs 49.97 for each bag. Might be an idea to run with.
Hey Matt I've been watching u for a while and I'm getting ready to graduate highschool in June and I wanted to do what u do like framing all of it so i was wondering if u could like tell me what to look for like job wise
@@MattBangsWood do you decide to order those because it’s easier to install or was it absolutely necessary to achieve the engineers desire on your shear walls?
Does anyone have a good recommendation on soundproofing without adding a second wall? The architect original drew it up as a double wall, then changed it last minute back to single..
What would you guys do? I'm looking into Rockwool insulation, but in the meantime I'm air sealing from one unit to the next.
double layer of drywall plus rockwool maybe?
Rockwool safe and sound works pretty well
Resilient channel two layers of drywall and USG acoustical caulking
Another vote for resilient channel with clips.
2x6 wall with 2x4 studs 8”oc staggered flush with each side
When I done them in the past,we framed by staggering the studs then weaving insulation through the studs,resilient channel then fire code drywall
Did the staggerd studs many times in partition wall...used the rock wool sound deadener, it worked well
A lot of codes now wont allow staggered studs in a partition wall between units, doesnt meet fire and sound codes. Our area code asks for double 2x4 walls and insulation in both
My drywall guy recommended insulation and laminated layers of 1/2" drywall which worked out great in our house between the units. You can go and install those fancy dandy resilient channels which lift the drywall off the wall this not transferring noise, but it has a unique installation system and to be honest the former method works just as well at half the cost. Plus you get the added fire rating which keeps the inspector happy. Happy inspector = easy life.
also sooo great you keep the repetition going even tho you've reviewed it many times since your channel started ... nail patterns ... general build practices ... it's great you always review it for new subscribers tooo
Great vid again.. Over the shoulder viewing men at work. goood talk at the end. I approve
Putting the set nails below the plates on studs is a great tip. I have been framing for 5 years and never thought of using the nails this way. 🙏
I like your method on assuring to never miss a stud when nailing a shearwall! Can you please make a video of the installation of apa portal frames and strong walls?
Best skillful and knowledgeable foreman I've ever saw. I'm not in construction but I enjoyed watching your vlog.
2x6 plates with 2x4 studs staggered to break the transfer of sound vibration from one side of the wall to the other. You're still building two 2x4 walls, just sharing the plates to save thickness.
What Bob said, and Rockwool, and 5/8” type X drywall. The fibers tend to diffuse the sound.
I'm new to this where is this method called. Or any links to learn
@@MichaelSmith-nn8nq bird's eye view looks like zipper teeth. weave insulation btwn.
Hey Matt! Great Videos! I enjoy watching them. I just wanna say Thank You for helping me understand, every detail Front to back and why its done that way. Great Work Matt
it's funny to watch the 3 different techniques you guys used carrying those zip sheets haha
Matt try Rock wool Safe and Sound on your walls between units have had good luck with it.
Nick at NS Builders has a couple of episodes showing how they handled soundproofing a shared wall. One interesting thing they used was "putty pads" around electrical boxes to reduce through sound transmission. They also used product called Quietrock and Green Glue acoustical sealant.
I thought those were for fire proofing?? Maybe they help resist sound as well.
Gracias por subir los videos ...
If you don't want double wall thickness then vertical strapping on the zip and then run resilient channel horizontally to screw your final surface into. Gives a good sound break in just a couple inches of thickness. Extra credit for some heavy felt under the strapping and filling the normal wall void with insulation.
As always. Awesome Matt. So well explained and executed.
green glue and double drywall works well
We always use double 5/8 rock. A little more material $ but finish is the same cost. Another good weekend with a MBW video! Thank you!
In my experience, some sonopan combined with some rockwool could help to cancel some noise out on that single wall.
Never seen a single wall seperate two buildings like that!
Rockwool insulation is a great sound deadening substance. Also adds to the fire brake needs.
I agree with Bill Rockwell insulation is good for sound deadening but I think you’re gonna have to do a double wall
I use Rockwool safe'n'sound in the stud cavity for soundproofing. Works great. Fire resistant too.
Matt have you thought about using a coil nailer for attaching your sheathing. Have you tried the 500 psi coil nailer and compressor.
Great explanation. Great contents as usual
1st thing to say, I am not a builder. You asked my option on sound proofing the single wall in between the garages.
The liquid flashing needs to be around all edges of the zip sheathing and all other studs.
Use safe and sound between studs.
Use silent rock over the zip sheathing on both sides. If code allows it.
Never install any outlets or switch boxes on the dividing wall of the garages.
If the boxes are used the only hope is the use a mold around the boxes and the
silent rock will be useless because Those boxes become amplifiers.
And I was surprised to see they allow zip inside the garages!
All of these options are expensive.
You have a great channel Matt, and I can always learn from you......
But I am the one person you would never hire... well I’m not sure which side
of the hammer I need to use or which end. Cheers to you all.
You helped me out! I didn't think to go through and liquid flash the edges of the ZIP Sheathing. That's still something I can do. Good idea!
@@MattBangsWood Great Job from Canada! Our codes sppear to be somewhat different than most of yours but I srtill learn alot from you Matt B
Tool List: www.amazon.com/shop/mattbangswood?listId=3E3RY20WI7A06&ref=idea_share_inf
Great job
For soundproofing, 2x6 framed wall is best if not more, safe n’ sound rock wool insulation 2 layers thick, 3/4” plywood or osb sheathing with caulked seems, and finish it with 5/8” fire code Sheetrock and leave a 3/8” gap on the ground that you fill with backer rod and caulking. Big stretch caulking is one of the best for acoustic caulking and it’s not too expensive. Just finished a music studio and that’s how the 11’ walls were structured. Also seal any outlets or switches on that wall with spray foam.
What about some foam insulation for the sound reduction. Great video as always!!... hugs from Barcelona!!
I can’t stop staring at Beard’s ridiculous tool belt set up...maybe he could jamb a 4 ft level and drywall square in there somehow 🤣
I dig the new nickname for him!
Maybe some liquid soap to go with the kitchen sink? 😃
Did you take the trigger spring out?just seems to be safer.
Multifamily projects use staggered 2x4 studs @ 8" o/c nailed to 6x plates for their corridor walls. That way the drywall on the inside unit is not attached to the same stud as the drywall on the corridor side. It helps mitigate sound transmission.
Great advice to build a barn.
THE BIGGG HOMIEE FOXXX 🦊
If a pipe or wire is within 1 inch of the face of the framing there has to be a nail plate before sheeting. Don't just draw a red slash.
Free tv. Best sound proofing there is.
You could use green sonopan (soundproofing panels) on each side of the wall.
What STC rating do the want for the separation wall
It's been mentioned at least once in the comments, but take a look at the Quietrock drywall products- excellent STC improvement over standard drywall. The marketing claims one panel of Quietrock is equivalent to 8 sheets of standard 1/2" drywall when it comes to sound dampening. Unfortunately it's $50+/panel, but at least the option exists.
Great channel btw, thanks for sharing!
I’ve built some music studio walls...main concept is to change the material from each layer. The different densities of the various materials is what causes different frequencies of sound to reduce the speed of its travel...the more the densities change, the sound will eventually dissipate. Adding layers is costly, but is very effective. With a layer of mdf, then Sonopan, then 5/8 rock on either side with rockwool safe and sound in the cavity, you’ve been laughing. Key is to ensure all joints and penetrations are sealed (ie. using liquid flash like lepage’s acousti-seal or green glue with a strip of some sort of tape on top to keep the mess down). Hope this helps
Thought that was the reason you guys were using nails instead of N18 staples for your sheeting. Just depends on where you are at. Love the ZipSystem sheeting, awesome stuff.
great work. one cheap way to sound proof without a second wall is add 5/8 type x drywall. but add two layers on either side of the wall. it will meet crazy fire requirements.
Rockwool insulation. Soundboard under drywall on both sides of the wall.
Why do you use zip sheathing on the interior walls? Would it save cost to use regular osb and save the zip for exterior?
When space was an issue, our sound engineer would spec 2x6 plated with 2x4 studs-staggered (still with 5/8" drywall on resilliant channe.) This reduced the impact sound transmission and yeilded pretty good results.
I have always use Rockwool insulation and have good results using it.
Dont use the soft Rockwool. Use the medium hard pressed type of bats.
Use rockwool between the units.
Love that you label/note your shearwalls. If I’m doing a strap and shear inspection on a large multi-family project that has 5 different types of ply shearwalls, this helps so much.
Hi Matt, The APA states that 8D nails should be used to attach 1/2" structural plywood to the studs. Nail charts state that an 8D's nail shank and length are 0.134" x 2 1/2", respectively, but I'm only able to find .131" x 3" nails for my 21 degree nail gun. What size nail do you use for 1/2" structural plywood on 2x4 studs? Also, do the nails have to be ring shank? Your expertise would be much appreciated as well as any brand recommendation. Thanks for the video!
I say 8 pipes nailed, and use rockwool between units for sound proofing
Bummer you didn’t film pouring the garages.
@MattBangsWood
Is the shear wall need drywall over it, for finishing purposes?
Resilient stripes for sound transmission
What material are you using for the exterior sill plates, they appear thicker then a standard 2x material? Thanks
What kind of sealer do you apply between the sill plate and the foundation?
Hey Matt, you ever heard of Acoustiblok for soundproofing? It is a thin membrane that you can use for a multitude of applications, in homes, automobiles, and etc. I want to try this product if I am able to build my home.
Never heard of it but I'll look into it! Open to anything here.
Could you not use a Dry core system when your running a single wall between 2 units. Just a thought and not sure if your California codes support this product. I know your rough framing but as I said just a thought.Thank you.
i see people sheath and wrap when the wall is down do you have to wait in cali? due to inspection?
Make sure the studs of the second wall are on different center measurements. That way the drywall diaphragm on one side is independent of the other side breaking the transmission of sound from one side to the other. This can be done with a single wall. However the plates would need to be slightly wider so the studs for each side can be offset so they only have contact with the drywall of one side and not the other. You will use less wood than if you built two walls. I hope that makes sense.
What kind of nails do you use for zip sheeting
I wonder if you could do some green glue acoustic glue and 5/8 drywall on the walls where you are concerned about the noise?
run a sound proofing membrane under your sheathing that would effectively prevent sound from passing through the wall. You can even have the membrane on both sides of the wall to make it even better. It would increase the width of the wall by (2)(membrane thickness) and the price may be cheaper depending on how much it would cost you to build the second wall.
Can you please share some info on the balloon wall framing?
Try to put some sonopan panels and resilient channels on each side of the walls. I don't know if you've got this kind of material on the US but that's what we use here in Montreal!
Cellulose Insulation has sound blocking properties... Might be worth having the insulators fill this wall with Cellulose?
To sound proof a single wall between two units, first install Rockwool "Safe-n-Sound" between the studs, then use "two-leg" resilient RC-2 sound channel attached to one or both sides of the single wall. Attach your drywall to the resilient channel.
David, the problem I foresee is the cabinetry needs to hang off of that wall for both units.. I don't know about hanging cabinets off of a channel. What do you think?
@@MattBangsWood Hmmmm.......I've never dealt with hanging things on a demising wall where I've used sound channel. However, I think if you used mounting screws for the cabinets which are long enough to go through the sound channel and well into the studs, you should be okay to use sound channel.
@@DALee-wn2ti If it goes though the channel and into the studs though you end up acoustically coupled :/ Looses a bunch of the reason for the RC
@@vaewyn True, but how much coupling do you think will occur? Coupling will be limited to the number of screws to mount the cabinets Matt has in mind. He won't be coupling the entire wall.
Friggin architects. Much simpler and better to have a double wall
Just insulate the wall between units with rock wool, its so dense and provides awsome noise control
2:03 what are the plumbers already doing there?
Matt.... the only solution to soundproofing is to create a double wall with a 1 inch air space that's the only thing that works to try to control sound transmission
Tim, we're looking into our options with double wall. Thinking a 2x4" interior with a 1 inch space between the two. One side of the duplex will lose space.
Refer to Steve Bakers comment. This is the same process I use in NC and FL. We will also sound proof bathroom walls, adjoining BR Walls and garage/int. walls.
Two cents for two cents... bang on
2:25 Tree, what tree....there’s no tree in my way😆👍🏻
What’s with all the blocking at the center of the 8’ walls? Is that part of the extra codes you guys deal with in CA?
Probably a dumb question but why install the sheathing vertical instead of staggered horizontal? Besides the obvious way more work.
Insulate the center wall with sound deadening insulation then Sheetrock over zip sheathing on both sides it will be nice and quiet
I would like to see you frame an ICF home. I have lots of questions about that.
Is your nail pattern the reason for the post in the wall, or do they serve more Structrual as well
They serve a purpose as a structural member, they'll tie from the second story all the way down to the first. Post to post.
I’m going to guess you’ve hit zero pipes since you started marking them on the foundation. Or maybe 1. Also, to your soundproofing question: have you tried staggered studs?
Hello from Dingle, Ireland
Hey Sean! Love the scenery out in Ireland.
Cant you get a good Sound proof insulation
instead of 5/8th drywall use double 1/2" and then you put sound proofing caulk on the studs and 2 faces that touch. The theory is, sound loses energy each time it changes density. So its like if you have a sandwich with just bread and meat, that would transmit more sound than a sandwich with meat and veggies and sauce and bread. But, its probably less work to just build 2x 2x4 walls and stagger the studs. But I have heard its code to then drywall the inside space, but I think that's for firecode and you can beat that by using rockwool bats. And you could still use that sound proof caulking between the 2 top plates
Keep up the good work matt
Hows the nr83a u got recently working out for you? Im looking for 1 . I use the nr83a2 and nr83a2s but i want the nr83a orginal
What is your typical work day during the summer , mines is 7:30am- 7:00pm
They are great a crew
have you ever had a exterior wall fall off a second story as you were standing it up?
I've seen it happen years back on a different crew. Very little work can prevent that from happening.
Owens Corning Rigid Fibreglass batts. They’re the best. They have one product that is a combination of thermal and acoustic properties. Check them out.
I should also add that I’d use their 705 or 707 series, at the very least. Fill the whole cavity.
I agree with other commentators. Rockwool Safe ‘n Sound along with a double layer of gypsum.
ok so zip systems sheathing for the side. not your typical plywood eh? which leads to why : A lot of builders like the Zip system a lot because it eliminates what has always been a troublesome step in the building process. That is, carefully installing large sheets of plastic around the entire house, carefully lapping it at seams, and more carefully cutting and taping it around windows and doors so it directed any water to the exterior. Just thought of something since i see sheathing going inside? Why is it inside? did you do a video on how to take care of bows in the wood for the obvious reason when laying up sheeting or dry wall. It won't be flat
QuietRock 525 to soundproof interior walls, the Cadillac of sound proofing
Rock-wool insulation, loaded vinyl curtain and 5/8 drywall, maybe even double drywall and you’ll be able to shoot canons. Not sure that insulation and drywall is your job but that would be a decent path.
cheers from Ireland 🇮🇪👍
Just put some rockwool sound insulation between units
Quietrock or XP sound break. Not cheap, about 50 per sheet. But you are buying more so dealer might hook you up.
Outstanding
Will you make the drywall? if so, try to find a soundproof drywall. It looks all with holes.
Greetings from BULGARIA
Drywall hangers install a fiber board they call a sound board. If mem serves the sheets are 3/4" and they install it along with a metal "hat" track, then for fire code on common walls they install 2x 5/8" fire-rated sheet rock, and if the flooring system does not get a product like gip-crete for fire rating, then they also hang the 2x5/8" fire-rated sheetrock on the ceilings in apartment buildings. That's what I remember as Drywall Taper living in the Ozarks, Missouri, up to 2008, when the new construction appartments and spec homes dried up, and I was a Production Taper at the time with 25 years in, and well, you just didn't send the tattooed 6'5", 325lbs smoking, and every other word fu*k guy to the remodel, so I went back to tattooing full time. Now, after watching tattooing turn into a retil sales job, I put on a set of bags and have been helping a friend frame decks. Although my knowledge of the trades is vast, I had only swung a drywall hachet, and for my first 2 weeks as a 45-year-old learning a new trade, I used the only hammer I owned and knew. The boss made fun of me until he saw I could swing it. He had to repeatedly stop me from using the hatchet side to "adjust" or "hack" lumber to fit. I did not hang sheetrock, but I did learn, and my stepfather taught me sheetrock does not pay enough to lift it twice, so if it does not fit, that's what your hatchet is for; make it fit, and we can deal with the gap when we tape and finish the job. Thanks for doing videos like this; they have really helped me understand the "why" behind so much that I am doing at work these days!
The best insulation I know for sound is a product made with demin ie used blue jeans. Its called Bonded Logic. Linus Tech Tips used it for their server room to keep the sound down which it did for them. Lowes sell a R19 that has 5 piece bag that goes to 93" in length with the 15" width. It runs 49.97 for each bag. Might be an idea to run with.
Hey Matt I've been watching u for a while and I'm getting ready to graduate highschool in June and I wanted to do what u do like framing all of it so i was wondering if u could like tell me what to look for like job wise
That’s funny. You censored your worker when he was pulling up his pants and taking off his sweater with a AdvancedTech sheet. Haha
How many boxes of nails on average for this size home
ARE THOS 9 FT ZIP SHEETS?
Yes, we have 10’ up front as well.
@@MattBangsWood do you decide to order those because it’s easier to install or was it absolutely necessary to achieve the engineers desire on your shear walls?
rock wool insulation with 5/8 drywall