All very high quality tips! I began framing exactly as you described in the early 1970's. All builders/homeowners should demand attention to all of the things you pointed out, unfortunately many don't. Excellent video, well done!!!
Many years ago, I framed a house for another builder. He had started using Advantech for his sub-floors. I immediately switch to Advantech and never looked back. Hands down, the best sub-floor material on the market.
it burns like rocket fuel , way more glue and not as safe for fireman to walk on when the basement is on fire same thing with the crappy floor joist made of trash
Awesome work!! Thank you. And these comments about 3/4 roof ply and all rafters at 16s… not sure why they do that. Maybe high snow zones? Usually people have regional experience. We should all be studying and appreciating each others work. To me you are a real builder. I won’t argue with you. I can’t. So thanks for the video.
Thanks so much for watching and reaching out! In any profession, I believe we never stop learning, and if we think we know it all, that’s when troubles begin, and the wheels start to come off😜
I was building my cabin years ago (I'm sitting in it now). Used Adventech subflooring. We halted construction for about 2 years. The subfloor held up really well despite being open to the elements. It has a few wavy spots but I was impressed. We ran out of money for a while but living in it now.
My first house was built in 1963. I gutted the garage down to the studs. During the remodel I stuffed R-30 unfaced insulation in each wall cavity, top to bottom and on the ceiling and installed an insulated garage door. My drywall guy wasn't happy but he got it done. That was the best insulated room in the house!
Hopefully your wall cavity was 10" thick, otherwise squeezing r30 into a thinner cavity reduces the insulation value to much less than the value of insulation intended for that wall thickness.
@@bannockchief they were actual 4". But, regardless, as I told you, my garage was THE BEST insulated room in the house! -20f outside, it was around 45 inside (garage wasn't heated). On 85-90 degree days, if I didn't open the garage door, by the time the sun set (in middle of summer) it would still be around upper 70's or real low 80's. You can 'feel' the pressure when you open and close the doors and the sound acoustics were excellent despite having an unfinished concrete slab.
I used 2x4 wall construction with Zip R-12 sheathing, which outperforms 2x6 construction with uninsulated sheathing by reducing thermal bridging. Closed cell spray all exterior walls 3". 2" of foam sprayed on top of ceiling drywall and blown fiberglass for total r-60 for roof. Plywood subfloor instead of Avantech because it holds wood floor staples better than coated OSB. My blower door test was 75% lower than code but would have been better if I had noticed a couple of uncapped vents, like a 6" stove exhaust. I used laminated studs in long hallways and in kitchen for dead straight walls and for hanging cabinets. Those also help base trim maintain contact at all points to wall with no unsightly gaps or wavey trim. If I ever build again, I'd check every vertical stud opening for plumbness after framing and check all window/door jambs for proper overlay to studs for drywall. I had three large windows where drywall needed to be cut away so casings laid flat across jambs and drywall. Much easier to get out the cordless planer to address problem areas before drywall goes up. I live in zone 6 with very long and cold winters.
I like what you’re saying… There are several ways to build a home, and sometimes people don’t want to spend extra money! Unless it is there last and final home, then it should be an option ( or up for discussion ) but typically people move every 7 years… so they don’t want to overbilled and overspend
@@BradtheBuilderAmericans build houses for not themselves but a next buyer just to give away all equity they earned in house to real estate agents. This stupid habit is broken now with 7 percent mortgage rate
Thanks for sharing your framing secrets with us ! I'm sure Flair and the rest of your customers appreciate your attention to all the details in building a top-notch home.
I have a tip for your framers, tack up 3 ft strips of 6 mil poly to your exterior walls prior to standing your interior walls. Then your vapor barrier flows threw from room to room and is easier to seal up.
I’m a carpenter and I lost half my left index finger last year. I miss doing carpentry and I’ve had to have a career change but this is helping me miss is a little less. Thanks Brad 👌🏼🙏
From the UK, love learning new skills and listening to how others build etc. Very well explained. Oh and btw, old school here, so refreshing to deal in ft and “‘s again 😉👍🇬🇧🇺🇸
A clean job site is a safe job site. I twisted my knee on a dirty job site all my fault, I hobbled for a year afterwords. I agree with you on the sheeting. Here in the PNW we get rain all the time and OSB will fatten up and you'll see it on the finished product.
There’s way too many opportunities of a twisted knee on this job site, materials scattered around way too much. As a framer myself a neat jobsite is a top priority of mine. The homeowners always appreciate a clean and neat home even under construction. The word of quality and cleanliness always makes it’s way around and normally outweighs expense when your business is considered for a upcoming job.
I was a framer 25 years ago. Those poor people must be paying a fortune to heat their houses. For example wall pockets never were insulated. For headers we slapped a piece of scrap plywood between the two 2 x 10’s. 2 x 4 walls with an inch of foam on the outside. Nice to see things are improving.
Codes are getting tougher on R-Value! It’s a good thing in the long run but, the downside is the homes become so air tight they are not healthy…You need fresh air exchange!
As a flooring installer i appreciate your concern about the subfloor conditions, bigger problem is usually the framing and beams, people dont realize that we have to get a floor down to an 1/8th inch in six feet, when the framers turn it into a roller coaster it takes me days to fix it all
I know exactly what you mean by the doors. My house is approx 70yrs old. It has high (I think cathedral ceilings, short on the front end and high in the middleof the house) ceilings and the doors look short compared with the walls. I appreciate all the tips and tricks you can share!!
Polyurethane (spray foam) is about R7/inch AT THE APPLICATION. You should verify the thermal resistance value longterm. Usually, it reduce to 80% of the initial value, therefore about R5.6/inch 1 year later. Verify the warranty. Great video. Take care.
My house was built in 1971 and 2x4 structure. South Louisiana has mild winters. Need to replace 11' of termite eaten garage wall at overhead door including the top plate, fortunately sill plate still in good shape. Much harder to rebuild top plate to code when the roof is already in place and can only access from one side as there's brick face on front of house.
Love the tips can I ask why that opening from the mudroom into the main with the wider walls (2×8-10) wasn't spaced further from the wall in pose of the top casing? I personally think it's distasteful to have one side clean cut to have the other full bloom. Just a thought and genuine question.
I was a framer for 20 years and a finish carpenter for 20 years. We only built houses for the very wealthy in Rancho Santa Fe, Ca. First of all those framing corners are trash, we call them Ca. corners. I like the subfloor, I am not familiar with that brand though. The tall doors do make a huge difference, we used interior doors that were up to 9’6” tall and 2 1/4” thick. If you really want to build a nice home, do not use trusses (track style) build a conventional roof.
Yes, the doors were solid hickory/pecan. After the doors were installed, up to 100 doors, then the painters would take over and spend about a week per door, staining and applying about 5 coats of hand rubbed polyurethane to each door. I remember 1 house that we built and the painting alone was about 500K.@@BradtheBuilder
First of all, CONGRATULATIONS on surpassing 25K subscribers Brad. That is amazing. I know of channels that have been up for years before they pass that milestone! You've done it in 11 videos, so well done! Great tips, Brad. Living just outside of Edmonton, Alberta, I had to comment on the Wayne Gretzky comment! I remember well watching the Oilers vs (I believe it was) Flyers when he got 5 goals in one game, including an empty netter with seconds to spare. It was electrifying. It was around Christmas, if I remember correctly, because we had family there and despite it being so cold outside people were outside clanging on pots and pans and whooping, etc. after the game. If memory serves, that was the same night he achieved his 50th goal in less than 40 games (I could Google all this, I guess but I'll go by my old foggy memory, lol). That was the only period in time when I truly enjoyed watching hockey (or any sport really) on TV. After this time period, I found hockey to become more of a punch-up. There is a freeway in Edmonton named Gretzky Drive. Another fun fact was the young man with Downs Syndrome, Joey Moss, who was the locker room attendant for the Oilers. He was beloved. There is a school being named after Joey, that is currently under construction. There is also a major road in Edmonton named after his linemate Mark Messier. The Oilers have made Edmonton a HUGE hockey town, especially during the Gretzky time. I believe he was here for an entire decade of his career! That's nearly unheard of. I wish I would some day be able to build a home that is disability safe and accessible, but that won't be an option, lol. Disability doesn't pay well! I am very grateful that a single mom, I was able to buy us a home pre-injury. The only issue is that after having a spine/spinal cord injury our 4 level split home is a pain in the butt 😂. I would love a ranch style/bungalow home someday. If I ever need to do any renovations to a future home, I'm so glad to have your videos to look back on, so thanks for sharing. On top of your videos being very informative, you've got a very fun way of relaying the information. It's a great channel, so please keep it up! Heather🇨🇦
Thanks for sharing the Wayne Gretzky story… He is the all-time greatest hockey player! If you need any design tips for building a barrier free ADA home I can help you with that!
@@BradtheBuilder That's very kind of you Brad. If I ever am able to do that, you'll be the first person I write, lol. The home you did for your client with MS still stands out to me how many subtle, yet game changing for a disabled person, changes you made.
They are called California corners as a joke. Cause everyone knows they are a horrible way to make a corner. They are weaker and you have no where to nail siding.
@@makethingshappen8427 if you think 1/2 plywood is great to hold hardi plank siding ? OK. But I prefer a solid corner. Years of nailing hardi corner boards and siding, the nails will back out.
In norway we use 2x8 on exterior walls then after damp blocker we have a 2x2 then we put the drywall or other interior panel on that leaves us with 10 inches of insulation or 25 cm
No this is a Real Builder! Those that work for the production home companies are what I call schedulers! Because that’s all they know is to go by the schedule that the company gives them to get the home done in a certain amount of time! They don’t care about quality or craftsmanship, I think some of them don’t know which end of a hammer to use! Great looking job sir!!!
Haha! I love your term scheduler! Some superintendents are too green to spot problems, and some are so overworked they couldn't fix mistakes if they wanted to. The schedule is a steam roller, so get out of the way! The rationalization is "Well, it's not MY house."
@@stipcrane you’re right! there needs to be a balance… But more importantly, you have to have quality control to make sure subs are not building on top of other problems!
Forced to do owner build bc in the smallish town we are building- I got comments from builders when asked if they do 2x6 exterior: "That'll just run your insulation costs up." "We can do that, but around here all you need is 2x4." "We've built for 30 years, used 2x4 on all of them- no issues." All those comments came after I said 2x6 was non-negotiable. 🧐
I like that AdvanTech tip the most. If you're building alone, you are at the mercy of the elements. Question though: would you use the same brand for roof sheathing? Or it's not worth the money?
I do, Huber makes good products and their zip sheathing is good stuff. The cost variance isn't great but the quality of the product compared to its counterparts is vastly superior.
Thanks for the video. I really appreciate the unselfish sharing of knowledge. Thank you! ...but those two 2x6s to your left in the middle of the video were were really bothering me : )
Very good info! Just found this channel. Brad - I had pretty good termite damage on my front door header and jack/king studs on each side. I was thinking about replacing the entire door frame/header b/c it wouldn't involve much woood. My front door is in a hallway so I only have about 1 foot on each side of the door. I cut the drywall back and what I have is 2x4 (exterior wall) then some kind of foam board then brick on the other side of the foam board. I cant see everything until I take the door slab and jamb out but I can see some very thin plastic flashing around the door frame. The house was built in 1990 and im sure there's been tons of changes since then as to what you can/cant use. Does code still allow the use of that really thin plastic flashing around exterior door frames or does it now require a heavier/thicker flashing like that peel n stick thats used on window frames? This is in Florida if that makes any difference.
I’m not aware of any codes that require specific types of flashing around the front doors… but if you’re removing the trim around the exterior of the front door, you can use a Tyvek Tape across the top and down the sides before you put the trim back on and then you will want to install a metal “L” flashing above the trim at the door. Does this make Sense?
I hope that since there appears to be higher ceiling in the living room, as compared to the other areas of the house, that those walls will have boxing/sheathing on the attic side. I see too many builders that leave these open with just R13 or R19 insulation toward the attic which would leave those areas under insulated.
Our framers in Missouri us insulation on those spots. We hold our headers up to top plate and cripple down in mamy cases.. Great plywood floor...Advantech....
Here's my 2¢. I live in New England so it's cold and a good R Factor is important. A 2"x6" wall is great for several reasons. 1. More room to install plumbing and electrical. 2. Greater strength. 3. You can put in thicker insulation. If you squeeze your insulation into a 2"x4" wall you've defeated the R Factor. Don't compress the insulation. I've built log homes to. Tom Dutkiewicz
Tom- you are right on with every point… It’s amazing how people think that if you stuff the insulation and they’re tight that you’re getting benefits but you don’t
@@JOHNSmith-pn6fj Yes you can for 2"x4" but your "R Factor" gets worse especially if that insulation is crushed by PVC pipes, outlets and wiring in that space. In the US a 2"x4" is actually 1.5"x3.5". 3.5 inches isn't really enough. A 2"x6" outer wall at least gives you 5.5 inches of space. Thomas Dutkiewicz USA
@@alberteinstein9176 If your existing home is framed with 2X4s . Which many homes in New England are I was simply pointing out that you can purchase the correct insulation for those walls rather that stuffing the wrong insulation. In General plumbing goes in interior walls, unless it is for heating. And people have been dealing with insulation, pipes, wiring and electrical boxes since the big push for insulation started in WWII. Of course you could always opt to pad out the 2X4 into 2X6 for the greater R factor then move everything Accordingly for the thicker wall electrical. Boxes, Jamb extensions, etc, etc, etc
I some jurisdictions I build the headers with 2 "rigid insulation between the 2x10s or lvls just like i preinsulate partion pockets in the outside wall with 4 inches of rigid foam
In high windstorm area you can’t use CA corners or insulated headers Door or window openings that are wide often call for lvl headers with doubled jack and king studs
In 2:33 it shows the 2x6 outside wall framing, right from the start I would not use the framing material that is the outside portion of the tree, you can see there is nothing that the drywall installer has to fasten to, that material is useless, remember the computer picks out the material to be cut into dimensional lumber, but is not programmed for all 4 sides to be square.
A huge mistake my builder and I made on our custom home build came with our wood burning fire place. My fire box was not vented properly to the outside during framing and install. With the code requirements you mentioned Brad, our home was so air tight the fire box could not draw a draft. This led to smoke coming back into the house consistently. My builder attempted many fixes with no luck. I finally pressed on my builder hard enough to bring in a professional. They ended up having to install a chimney exhaust fan on their dime. I’m curious with Flairs fireplace, how are you working around that issue to ensure there is a constant draft? I was at the house daily checking on things and simply didn’t know better. I wish my builder would have known on the front end.
As a builder I rely on the fireplace companies to properly vent the fireplace flues, each metal fireplace or direct vent fireplaces will have very specific requirements for venting. As for a real wood-burning fireplaces, there’s a rule where the top of the chimney needs to be a minimum of 10 foot away from the closest roof Peak… this will allow the chimney to draw properly! Typically chimneys are the highest point of the roof. ( I hope this makes sense? )
why didnt you simply put a 3 inch pipe down low in your wall with a way to close it when you werent using the fireplace?Why would ypu hire someone to tell you this? You needed a leak!! THE cold this "leak" puts out is so small,exactly the amount you need to make it draft!!
Much to be said for a drafty old house . We have fireplace and a mini wood stove in our 1300 sq ft home, with 3 slight levels and some vaulted ceilings the air moves ok
Wood burning fireplace units come with very specific instructions including locations. Ignore these guidelines and you arrive at the results you described. For example "I want the fireplace over here because it looks good...". Brad correctly mentions the common issues. Hiring an unqualified laborer to "install" a device that holds avg 1500 degree fire in the place you live and sleep is risky. Chimney exhaust fans are banned in our region (for good reason).
I've never framed anything before, and I just made the mistake of framing all the walls of my 10' by 12' shed with no bottom plates under the studs. Just studs standing upright on the floor, connected at the ceiling with top plates. Whoops. The exterior will be thin sheet steel, but still a bit heavy. Should I take it all apart and redo it properly, or can I get away with it? 😅
@BradtheBuilder Awesome! I've been kinda fretting over whether to undo all my work so far. I'm grateful for the advice from someone who knows their stuff. Thank you so much! You made my day
Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. I'm often chipped by others for my attention to detail, but if you get it right the first time, then you aren't constantly going back and fixing things later, which will cost you a LOT more than 'fixing' it before it was an issue.
Amen! Fixing problems usually costs 3-4 times more…being a Builder you are consistently looking for future/ potential problems that are going to come back and bite you on the ass! With todays labor shortage you really need to be on the look out. Thanks for watching 🤠
@@BradtheBuilderhey is it ok to build a floor the oldschool way with oak hardwood over scrap lumber sub floor? I have rent houses and my strongest homes are ones with those floors if I ever build I want to go that route I have found the oak hardwood for $1 a sq foot unfinished do you have any advice about building the old way like that?
@@brainwashingdetergent4128 make sure your sub floor is strong and not spongy. If so, make sure those get replaced before you put down the old school oak floors.
It's nice that you talk about energy-efficient corners and energy-efficient headers. But yet you still have extra studs in your wall framing. It appears that when framing your RO for windows have extra “cripples” under the sill that are not on the layout - so I should not really call them cripples since they are not on any layout pattern. I am sure you will say that they are needed to hold up the sill - but you can skip all of those and just toenail the sill in place. In one window you even had them above the header. Extra framing elements cause thermal bridging and cost money. All you need is the King, the Jack, and the Cripples that are on a layout - if the cripple is not on the layout, it is not needed. Other than that, really good video.
Michael - Thank you so much for explaining that…I will look into making those corrections in my future framing! I am curious on your thoughts on increasing the width of on center for the exterior walls to minimize the thermal bridging with the studs?
@@BradtheBuilder Shifting to 24 OC with 2x6 is a great framing method for Energy Efficiency (EE) but you do have to plan for it and review point loads with your engineer.
Brad, with the R-Value being so high nowadays, how do you ensure there is a good draft to get the right amount of insulation while still maintaining a fresh air exchange?
A 2x4 home with 1" foam board over the plywood is much better insulated than a 2x6 with comparable insulation. There are no uninsulated areas over the framing members.
As a competitive frame carpenter and perfectionist LOL . . I as a framer would have not placed a stud so close to the corner .. I always back them off if it's too tight . Another is material use. With barked material or chamfered . I won't use them as T's or nailers .. I want a good face for drywall . I'll find use for them elsewhere such as cripples that are sistered to jacks or jacks sistered to kings . 2 opposing barked edges make a sharp edged king/jack ..Our saying is " Ugly In " .. One thing that makes me crazy " Many things do " is walking down a hall and seeing a 6'-8" door close to a C.O . and they have the same finish height !! . In the finish it looks like someone forgot the hinges and the door .. I'll raise the CO up 4"-6". It doesn't look welcoming ... I've had builders in the past insist on putting the header at the RO height .. I like to slam them to the top and frame down to the RO for many reasons . One it is a better load pathway with fewer intervals , It allows for head height correction if someone mistakenly frames it too low. It allows for punch out work in the dry , It allows me to harvest braces and other materials which are shorter for cripples .
I have never installed exterior insulation and I don’t see other builders doing that either! Actually, our climate isn’t all that cold except for a couple of weeks during the winter it will get below 20°
Framed R.O for Doors need to be a min of 2" each way, this guy is going 3" R.O on the height, that's OK, better a little to high than to low. Guy is a good builder, Job site is a mess, Stuff laying everywhere.
Wouldn't it be better to place header more inside? So you can put heat insolation from the outside to prevent condensation inside of a wall. Simply to move dew point closer to exterior or completely of the wall.
@@andreycham4797 California Mission building. 6 foot thick earth walls. Great for insulating not so good for earthquakes. (Some missions get 100°F summer days and are damn close to the San Andreas fault.)
If you couldn't afford Advantech for your entire build but wanted to use it where absolutely necessary, what would that look like? Subfloor under kitchen and bath?
Nice job explaining the framing tips. Except for one big mistake. 99 is the 2nd best hockey player of all time. I'm from Boston so you know who #1 is. Thanks for the tips, great info.
Thanks for the info. I’m in the process of building a home and these are very helpful. I wanted a 2x6 frame but my builder said with the options available I could also just upgrade the insulation with the 2x4 frame to help save some money. If there was a big difference structurally I would have to go with 2x6. Trying to pinch pennies where I can with todays market.
Your Builder is right! Building with 2 x 4 wall construction is OK but, I would advise spending some of your savings on Open Cell spray foam for wall insulation to increase the R-value for long-term benefits. (Prices are crazy High 🙆♂️)
WE KNOW the structural element ,saying 2x4s are weaker is IRRELAVANT.,since its been done for 200 years ,but I would go 2x6 for sure ,and im the tightest builder in the world,
yeah i agree, when we frame we build a energy corner this eliminates all the problems you refer to in your video and makes it a breeze to insulate @@BradtheBuilder
Nice work...good finding your channel. To the point!
I’m glad you found me… I hope you stick around and subscribe! 👍
Thanks for reaching out and for watching
All very high quality tips! I began framing exactly as you described in the early 1970's. All builders/homeowners should demand attention to all of the things you pointed out, unfortunately many don't.
Excellent video, well done!!!
Thanks so much for watching & reaching out! Have a great day
Many years ago, I framed a house for another builder. He had started using Advantech for his sub-floors. I immediately switch to Advantech and never looked back. Hands down, the best sub-floor material on the market.
Thanks! I agree👍
it burns like rocket fuel , way more glue and not as safe for fireman to walk on when the basement is on fire same thing with the crappy floor joist made of trash
Awesome work!! Thank you. And these comments about 3/4 roof ply and all rafters at 16s… not sure why they do that. Maybe high snow zones? Usually people have regional experience. We should all be studying and appreciating each others work. To me you are a real builder. I won’t argue with you. I can’t. So thanks for the video.
Thanks so much for watching and reaching out! In any profession, I believe we never stop learning, and if we think we know it all, that’s when troubles begin, and the wheels start to come off😜
I was building my cabin years ago (I'm sitting in it now). Used Adventech subflooring. We halted construction for about 2 years. The subfloor held up really well despite being open to the elements. It has a few wavy spots but I was impressed. We ran out of money for a while but living in it now.
Im glad it worked out for you!
Adventech is a great product👍
As a journeyman carpenter in the saint louis carpenters union I'll say that we use advantech on every single house for subfloor..nothing else.
@@stevejohnson5477 that’s good to know! You are using the hood stuff! 👍
Sounds like us, we halted 2yrs because price of wood went crazy and things got tight, now we are starting our sm cabin!
@@veronicapadovani4243 you mean $11.50 2x4's was too much.. LOL those were some crazy prices.
My first house was built in 1963. I gutted the garage down to the studs. During the remodel I stuffed R-30 unfaced insulation in each wall cavity, top to bottom and on the ceiling and installed an insulated garage door. My drywall guy wasn't happy but he got it done. That was the best insulated room in the house!
What type of insulation did you put in the attic?
@@BradtheBuilder it was also r-30, but criss crossed (2 layers),. Im in NW Ohio so we get pretty cold winters and hot summers.
Hopefully your wall cavity was 10" thick, otherwise squeezing r30 into a thinner cavity reduces the insulation value to much less than the value of insulation intended for that wall thickness.
@@bannockchief they were actual 4". But, regardless, as I told you, my garage was THE BEST insulated room in the house! -20f outside, it was around 45 inside (garage wasn't heated). On 85-90 degree days, if I didn't open the garage door, by the time the sun set (in middle of summer) it would still be around upper 70's or real low 80's. You can 'feel' the pressure when you open and close the doors and the sound acoustics were excellent despite having an unfinished concrete slab.
@@bannockchief excellent point a lot of people don’t understand that
I used 2x4 wall construction with Zip R-12 sheathing, which outperforms 2x6 construction with uninsulated sheathing by reducing thermal bridging. Closed cell spray all exterior walls 3". 2" of foam sprayed on top of ceiling drywall and blown fiberglass for total r-60 for roof. Plywood subfloor instead of Avantech because it holds wood floor staples better than coated OSB. My blower door test was 75% lower than code but would have been better if I had noticed a couple of uncapped vents, like a 6" stove exhaust.
I used laminated studs in long hallways and in kitchen for dead straight walls and for hanging cabinets. Those also help base trim maintain contact at all points to wall with no unsightly gaps or wavey trim.
If I ever build again, I'd check every vertical stud opening for plumbness after framing and check all window/door jambs for proper overlay to studs for drywall. I had three large windows where drywall needed to be cut away so casings laid flat across jambs and drywall. Much easier to get out the cordless planer to address problem areas before drywall goes up.
I live in zone 6 with very long and cold winters.
I like what you’re saying… There are several ways to build a home, and sometimes people don’t want to spend extra money!
Unless it is there last and final home, then it should be an option ( or up for discussion ) but typically people move every 7 years… so they don’t want to overbilled and overspend
@@BradtheBuilderAmericans build houses for not themselves but a next buyer just to give away all equity they earned in house to real estate agents. This stupid habit is broken now with 7 percent mortgage rate
@@BradtheBuilderbobbray is saving money
Thanks for sharing your framing secrets with us ! I'm sure Flair and the rest of your customers appreciate your attention to all the details in building a top-notch home.
I have a tip for your framers, tack up 3 ft strips of 6 mil poly to your exterior walls prior to standing your interior walls. Then your vapor barrier flows threw from room to room and is easier to seal up.
I’m a carpenter and I lost half my left index finger last year. I miss doing carpentry and I’ve had to have a career change but this is helping me miss is a little less. Thanks Brad 👌🏼🙏
I’m sorry to hear about your accident! 🙆♂️. I hope you keep watching…
I know a guy that is missing a couple of digits, his name is Sam and he still frame's!
Uy
loosing half a finger shouldnt keep you from doing framing theres guys out there missing a couple of fingers and use prosthetics and still frame
Jaime Perkins (he's on TH-cam himself) might be a good inspiration.
Awesome tips. The 8' doors are such a great idea
From the UK, love learning new skills and listening to how others build etc.
Very well explained.
Oh and btw, old school here, so refreshing to deal in ft and “‘s again
😉👍🇬🇧🇺🇸
Wow all the way from the UK… So cool!! Thanks for watching
I know nothing about building a house, but I do enjoy all your videos. Thank you for posting these tips.
Thank you Mary!
This is good feedback… because we are trying to figure out all the different topics people want to see in building a home.
I'm in the exact same boat as you, Mary and agree 100%. Brad is not only so knowledgeable, he's so personable and fun to watch!
A clean job site is a safe job site. I twisted my knee on a dirty job site all my fault, I hobbled for a year afterwords.
I agree with you on the sheeting. Here in the PNW we get rain all the time and OSB will fatten up and you'll see it on the finished product.
Sorry to hear about your knee. It just takes one small situation and it messes you have for a long time.
There’s way too many opportunities of a twisted knee on this job site, materials scattered around way too much. As a framer myself a neat jobsite is a top priority of mine. The homeowners always appreciate a clean and neat home even under construction. The word of quality and cleanliness always makes it’s way around and normally outweighs expense when your business is considered for a upcoming job.
I was a framer 25 years ago. Those poor people must be paying a fortune to heat their houses. For example wall pockets never were insulated. For headers we slapped a piece of scrap plywood between the two 2 x 10’s. 2 x 4 walls with an inch of foam on the outside. Nice to see things are improving.
Codes are getting tougher on R-Value!
It’s a good thing in the long run but, the downside is the homes become so air tight they are not healthy…You need fresh air exchange!
I still see lots of new builds with the 2x10 sandwich headers, leaving no room for insulation. I imagine that load strength is more important to them.
@@JT_70It adds almost no strength. It just furs the header out to the inside face.
As a flooring installer i appreciate your concern about the subfloor conditions, bigger problem is usually the framing and beams, people dont realize that we have to get a floor down to an 1/8th inch in six feet, when the framers turn it into a roller coaster it takes me days to fix it all
You and the trimmers have your work cut out for you!
You have to hide all the imperfections 👍🇺🇸.
Awesome tips! I like the care you put into the houses. Knowing what to spend more money on when it makes the difference
I will never come across one you built, but as a 7'2 person, I thank you for building 8' doors as a standard!
I’ve been waiting for a guy like you to buy one of my homes!👍
@@BradtheBuilder if I ever move over there, i'll be sure to hit you up!
@@Wabinatorx if you need help designing your home…. Hit me up
I know exactly what you mean by the doors. My house is approx 70yrs old. It has high (I think cathedral ceilings, short on the front end and high in the middleof the house) ceilings and the doors look short compared with the walls.
I appreciate all the tips and tricks you can share!!
Can you put transoms over the top? Love transoms.
Good to hear from someone who as been there, done that, and can tell us about it.
Thanks for reaching out I appreciate it
Polyurethane (spray foam) is about R7/inch AT THE APPLICATION. You should verify the thermal resistance value longterm. Usually, it reduce to 80% of the initial value, therefore about R5.6/inch 1 year later. Verify the warranty.
Great video. Take care.
Thanks !
Mehh... Closed cell XPS is R5 per inch. It's easier to spray it...
I had a house with 10' ceiling and 8' doors. Looked great.
the trim took a lot longer to do though.
But you get to enjoy the long term beauty! 👍
Great tips Brad! Thank you for sharing them.
My house was built in 1971 and 2x4 structure. South Louisiana has mild winters. Need to replace 11' of termite eaten garage wall at overhead door including the top plate, fortunately sill plate still in good shape. Much harder to rebuild top plate to code when the roof is already in place and can only access from one side as there's brick face on front of house.
I feel your pain… These do overs are 10 times harder than building him the first time!
Love the tips can I ask why that opening from the mudroom into the main with the wider walls (2×8-10) wasn't spaced further from the wall in pose of the top casing? I personally think it's distasteful to have one side clean cut to have the other full bloom. Just a thought and genuine question.
Hhmmm? I will have to go back and watch the video to see 🤔
Id hate to build homes like that. So much for simplicity!
Rectangles man.
I was a framer for 20 years and a finish carpenter for 20 years. We only built houses for the very wealthy in Rancho Santa Fe, Ca. First of all those framing corners are trash, we call them Ca. corners. I like the subfloor, I am not familiar with that brand though. The tall doors do make a huge difference, we used interior doors that were up to 9’6” tall and 2 1/4” thick. If you really want to build a nice home, do not use trusses (track style) build a conventional roof.
Thanks for reaching out I agree with what you’re saying… I would love to put in the 9 1/2 foot tall doors!
Yes, the doors were solid hickory/pecan. After the doors were installed, up to 100 doors, then the painters would take over and spend about a week per door, staining and applying about 5 coats of hand rubbed polyurethane to each door. I remember 1 house that we built and the painting alone was about 500K.@@BradtheBuilder
@@timothybaer6596 wow! They sure know how to spend money out there in California!
First of all, CONGRATULATIONS on surpassing 25K subscribers Brad. That is amazing. I know of channels that have been up for years before they pass that milestone! You've done it in 11 videos, so well done!
Great tips, Brad. Living just outside of Edmonton, Alberta, I had to comment on the Wayne Gretzky comment! I remember well watching the Oilers vs (I believe it was) Flyers when he got 5 goals in one game, including an empty netter with seconds to spare. It was electrifying. It was around Christmas, if I remember correctly, because we had family there and despite it being so cold outside people were outside clanging on pots and pans and whooping, etc. after the game. If memory serves, that was the same night he achieved his 50th goal in less than 40 games (I could Google all this, I guess but I'll go by my old foggy memory, lol). That was the only period in time when I truly enjoyed watching hockey (or any sport really) on TV. After this time period, I found hockey to become more of a punch-up. There is a freeway in Edmonton named Gretzky Drive. Another fun fact was the young man with Downs Syndrome, Joey Moss, who was the locker room attendant for the Oilers. He was beloved. There is a school being named after Joey, that is currently under construction. There is also a major road in Edmonton named after his linemate Mark Messier. The Oilers have made Edmonton a HUGE hockey town, especially during the Gretzky time. I believe he was here for an entire decade of his career! That's nearly unheard of.
I wish I would some day be able to build a home that is disability safe and accessible, but that won't be an option, lol. Disability doesn't pay well! I am very grateful that a single mom, I was able to buy us a home pre-injury. The only issue is that after having a spine/spinal cord injury our 4 level split home is a pain in the butt 😂. I would love a ranch style/bungalow home someday. If I ever need to do any renovations to a future home, I'm so glad to have your videos to look back on, so thanks for sharing.
On top of your videos being very informative, you've got a very fun way of relaying the information. It's a great channel, so please keep it up!
Heather🇨🇦
Thanks for sharing the Wayne Gretzky story… He is the all-time greatest hockey player!
If you need any design tips for building a barrier free ADA home I can help you with that!
@@BradtheBuilder That's very kind of you Brad. If I ever am able to do that, you'll be the first person I write, lol. The home you did for your client with MS still stands out to me how many subtle, yet game changing for a disabled person, changes you made.
Just read Your comment Heather. A good story. You could write a book ! All the best from across the waves . Stephen 🦘✌️
In my area we call them California corners, and I think California has some of the strictest building codes in the country.
I know your permitting process is expensive and takes a long time🙆♂️
Wonder why?
They are called California corners as a joke. Cause everyone knows they are a horrible way to make a corner. They are weaker and you have no where to nail siding.
@@TimNobody-es5bidon’t you have sheathing to fix siding to?
@@makethingshappen8427 if you think 1/2 plywood is great to hold hardi plank siding ? OK. But I prefer a solid corner. Years of nailing hardi corner boards and siding, the nails will back out.
It held up to the tornado pretty dang good! Nice work
This is fantastic information. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. 👍🇺🇸
Thank you for reaching out & watching
In norway we use 2x8 on exterior walls then after damp blocker we have a 2x2 then we put the drywall or other interior panel on that leaves us with 10 inches of insulation or 25 cm
Wow! That is really good… thanks for sharing that👍
No this is a Real Builder! Those that work for the production home companies are what I call schedulers! Because that’s all they know is to go by the schedule that the company gives them to get the home done in a certain amount of time! They don’t care about quality or craftsmanship, I think some of them don’t know which end of a hammer to use! Great looking job sir!!!
Thanks 👍
Haha! I love your term scheduler! Some superintendents are too green to spot problems, and some are so overworked they couldn't fix mistakes if they wanted to. The schedule is a steam roller, so get out of the way! The rationalization is "Well, it's not MY house."
@@stipcrane you’re right!
there needs to be a balance… But more importantly, you have to have quality control to make sure subs are not building on top of other problems!
Those production home builders work may look sloppy to some but it always passes final inspection at the end of the day.
@@omarnunez2402 that is true
No matter the window size. Always use a double sill. This for exterior nailing after window install. Figure it out
Brad… you had me at Wayne Gretzky #99!! 😂
Haha! 👍
Brad, would like to see how you would frame a house to withstand severe tornado threats including bracketing. At least to handle an F-3 at minimal.
Forced to do owner build bc in the smallish town we are building- I got comments from builders when asked if they do 2x6 exterior:
"That'll just run your insulation costs up."
"We can do that, but around here all you need is 2x4."
"We've built for 30 years, used 2x4 on all of them- no issues."
All those comments came after I said 2x6 was non-negotiable. 🧐
Are you building in southern climates or you don’t need the R-value in the walls?
I like that AdvanTech tip the most. If you're building alone, you are at the mercy of the elements. Question though: would you use the same brand for roof sheathing? Or it's not worth the money?
I have never use a Vantech for roof sheathing. I think it’s an unnecessary expense because you should be covering up with felt paper right away.
I do, Huber makes good products and their zip sheathing is good stuff. The cost variance isn't great but the quality of the product compared to its counterparts is vastly superior.
Great job and impressive house!
Thanks for watching and reaching out. I hope you subscribe.👍
Thanks for the video. I really appreciate the unselfish sharing of knowledge. Thank you! ...but those two 2x6s to your left in the middle of the video were were really bothering me : )
Sorry!
I think they were temporary supports
Very good info! Just found this channel. Brad - I had pretty good termite damage on my front door header and jack/king studs on each side. I was thinking about replacing the entire door frame/header b/c it wouldn't involve much woood. My front door is in a hallway so I only have about 1 foot on each side of the door. I cut the drywall back and what I have is 2x4 (exterior wall) then some kind of foam board then brick on the other side of the foam board. I cant see everything until I take the door slab and jamb out but I can see some very thin plastic flashing around the door frame. The house was built in 1990 and im sure there's been tons of changes since then as to what you can/cant use. Does code still allow the use of that really thin plastic flashing around exterior door frames or does it now require a heavier/thicker flashing like that peel n stick thats used on window frames? This is in Florida if that makes any difference.
I’m not aware of any codes that require specific types of flashing around the front doors… but if you’re removing the trim around the exterior of the front door, you can use a Tyvek Tape across the top and down the sides before you put the trim back on and then you will want to install a metal “L” flashing above the trim at the door. Does this make Sense?
I hope you subscribe and stick around for other videos👍
Love the Gretzky reference. 9️⃣9️⃣🏒
Haha! 😜👍
Great tips Brotha Brad ✊🏼🧐!! Coming along nicely 👊🏼😎🤙🏼
I hope that since there appears to be higher ceiling in the living room, as compared to the other areas of the house, that those walls will have boxing/sheathing on the attic side. I see too many builders that leave these open with just R13 or R19 insulation toward the attic which would leave those areas under insulated.
This is a next level home for most homes in my area it’s would be multi million dollars home that most locals wouldn’t be able to afford
That would fail the insulation inspection in my region causing the builder rework on his tab...
Our framers in Missouri us insulation on those spots. We hold our headers up to top plate and cripple down in mamy cases.. Great plywood floor...Advantech....
Thanks for reaching out, and I agree with you on the flooring! 👍
Here's my 2¢. I live in New England so it's cold and a good R Factor is important. A 2"x6" wall is great for several reasons.
1. More room to install plumbing and electrical.
2. Greater strength.
3. You can put in thicker insulation.
If you squeeze your insulation into a 2"x4" wall you've defeated the R Factor. Don't compress the insulation. I've built log homes to.
Tom Dutkiewicz
Tom- you are right on with every point… It’s amazing how people think that if you stuff the insulation and they’re tight that you’re getting benefits but you don’t
You are right about squeezing the insulation made for a 2X6 wall. But you can also buy insulation made for 2X4 walls.
@@JOHNSmith-pn6fj
Yes you can for 2"x4" but your "R Factor" gets worse especially if that insulation is crushed by PVC pipes, outlets and wiring in that space. In the US a 2"x4" is actually 1.5"x3.5". 3.5 inches isn't really enough. A 2"x6" outer wall at least gives you 5.5 inches of space.
Thomas Dutkiewicz
USA
@@alberteinstein9176 If your existing home is framed with 2X4s . Which many homes in New England are I was simply pointing out that you can purchase the correct insulation for those walls rather that stuffing the wrong insulation. In General plumbing goes in interior walls, unless it is for heating. And people have been dealing with insulation, pipes, wiring and electrical boxes since the big push for insulation started in WWII. Of course you could always opt to pad out the 2X4 into 2X6 for the greater R factor then move everything Accordingly for the thicker wall electrical. Boxes, Jamb extensions, etc, etc, etc
No arguments…great video. No bullsh..👍👍👍🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨
I some jurisdictions I build the headers with 2 "rigid insulation between the 2x10s or lvls just like i preinsulate partion pockets in the outside wall with 4 inches of rigid foam
Awesome video, helpful
Thanks ❤️
The flooring I was aware of but not familiar with a product name. The header construction is a new one for me. 2 good pointers.
I’m glad to help out
In high windstorm area you can’t use CA corners or insulated headers
Door or window openings that are wide often call for lvl headers with doubled jack and king studs
Just curious, what part of the country are you building in? We get pretty windy here in Nebraska.💨
Thanks! I'm just starting the building process of a second home and these tips are great!!
I wasn’t sure if people were going to like them? But, I’ll continue coming up with additional tips if that’s what you want? Thanks 🤠
@@BradtheBuilder absolutely, Brad. Keep 'em coming!
Absolutely awesome tips thanks for sharing
Advantech is osb with more/different glue.
In 2:33 it shows the 2x6 outside wall framing, right from the start I would not use the framing material that is the outside portion of the tree, you can see there is nothing that the drywall installer has to fasten to, that material is useless, remember the computer picks out the material to be cut into dimensional lumber, but is not programmed for all 4 sides to be square.
Love your videos, wish you had told us how adventec sheets are different from osb or plywood...are they plastic or something!
It’s a man-made product that can withstand water way better than conventional plywood & OSB
Nice job , enjoyed and informative thumbs up and subscribed.
Wow! Welcome to the Brad the Builder family 👍❤️. Thanks 🎺
that is nice looking timber, in Au we have really crappy timber, h3 treated radiata pine from NZ, big knots
We get crappy lumber here too… we have to look thru it from time to time to weed out the bad lumber
25 year framer here. I can tell with one look that this guy knows what he's talking about.
Thanks 👍
@@BradtheBuilder There are soooo many people putting out bad framing videos it's nice to see a good one.
@ thank you ❤️
A huge mistake my builder and I made on our custom home build came with our wood burning fire place. My fire box was not vented properly to the outside during framing and install. With the code requirements you mentioned Brad, our home was so air tight the fire box could not draw a draft. This led to smoke coming back into the house consistently. My builder attempted many fixes with no luck. I finally pressed on my builder hard enough to bring in a professional. They ended up having to install a chimney exhaust fan on their dime. I’m curious with Flairs fireplace, how are you working around that issue to ensure there is a constant draft? I was at the house daily checking on things and simply didn’t know better. I wish my builder would have known on the front end.
As a builder I rely on the fireplace companies to properly vent the fireplace flues, each metal fireplace or direct vent fireplaces will have very specific requirements for venting. As for a real wood-burning fireplaces, there’s a rule where the top of the chimney needs to be a minimum of 10 foot away from the closest roof Peak… this will allow the chimney to draw properly! Typically chimneys are the highest point of the roof. ( I hope this makes sense? )
why didnt you simply put a 3 inch pipe down low in your wall with a way to close it when you werent using the fireplace?Why would ypu hire someone to tell you this? You needed a leak!! THE cold this "leak" puts out is so small,exactly the amount you need to make it draft!!
Airtight houses need energy recovery ventilation installed for healthy air exchange and replacement. I’m surprised no one is mentioning this.
Much to be said for a drafty old house . We have fireplace and a mini wood stove in our 1300 sq ft home, with 3 slight levels and some vaulted ceilings the air moves ok
Wood burning fireplace units come with very specific instructions including locations. Ignore these guidelines and you arrive at the results you described. For example "I want the fireplace over here because it looks good...". Brad correctly mentions the common issues. Hiring an unqualified laborer to "install" a device that holds avg 1500 degree fire in the place you live and sleep is risky. Chimney exhaust fans are banned in our region (for good reason).
What a skill you have ! Thank you for sharing (:
Thanks for watching!
I've never framed anything before, and I just made the mistake of framing all the walls of my 10' by 12' shed with no bottom plates under the studs. Just studs standing upright on the floor, connected at the ceiling with top plates. Whoops. The exterior will be thin sheet steel, but still a bit heavy. Should I take it all apart and redo it properly, or can I get away with it? 😅
If it’s just a shed and the walls feel sturdy, you should be OK
@BradtheBuilder Awesome! I've been kinda fretting over whether to undo all my work so far. I'm grateful for the advice from someone who knows their stuff. Thank you so much! You made my day
@@threegreencharms 👍🤠
hi again brad glad to see your on top of your projects loved the pool video
Thank you! 🤠
Nice work 👍well done 🎯
Thanks 👍
Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
I'm often chipped by others for my attention to detail, but if you get it right the first time, then you aren't constantly going back and fixing things later, which will cost you a LOT more than 'fixing' it before it was an issue.
Amen!
Fixing problems usually costs 3-4 times more…being a Builder you are consistently looking for future/ potential problems that are going to come back and bite you on the ass!
With todays labor shortage you really need to be on the look out.
Thanks for watching 🤠
The 6 P's... great tip!!! Hard to say 10x fast🤪😂!
@@BradtheBuilderhey is it ok to build a floor the oldschool way with oak hardwood over scrap lumber sub floor? I have rent houses and my strongest homes are ones with those floors if I ever build I want to go that route I have found the oak hardwood for $1 a sq foot unfinished do you have any advice about building the old way like that?
@@brainwashingdetergent4128 make sure your sub floor is strong and not spongy. If so, make sure those get replaced before you put down the old school oak floors.
@@BradtheBuilder what would you suggest laying under the oak is that the same stuff you have in this video or should I use something else?
Thanks Brad!
Mistake # 1 Becoming a framer
It's nice that you talk about energy-efficient corners and energy-efficient headers. But yet you still have extra studs in your wall framing. It appears that when framing your RO for windows have extra “cripples” under the sill that are not on the layout - so I should not really call them cripples since they are not on any layout pattern. I am sure you will say that they are needed to hold up the sill - but you can skip all of those and just toenail the sill in place. In one window you even had them above the header. Extra framing elements cause thermal bridging and cost money. All you need is the King, the Jack, and the Cripples that are on a layout - if the cripple is not on the layout, it is not needed. Other than that, really good video.
Michael - Thank you so much for explaining that…I will look into making those corrections in my future framing! I am curious on your thoughts on increasing the width of on center for the exterior walls to minimize the thermal bridging with the studs?
@@BradtheBuilder Shifting to 24 OC with 2x6 is a great framing method for Energy Efficiency (EE) but you do have to plan for it and review point loads with your engineer.
@@SinglehandedSailing I was wondering about that… ?
I’ll run it by my engineer for my next upcoming jobs- Thanks 👍
Brad, with the R-Value being so high nowadays, how do you ensure there is a good draft to get the right amount of insulation while still maintaining a fresh air exchange?
We’re required to do a blower door test to determine the air exchange… it can be problematic with the home being too airtight! That’s not healthy
@@BradtheBuilderare you serious, Americans still build houses without ventilation, hrvs are dirt cheap
@@andreycham4797 since it’s not required by code not everybody puts them in…
A 2x4 home with 1" foam board over the plywood is much better insulated than a 2x6 with comparable insulation. There are no uninsulated areas over the framing members.
Vertical application of 4x8 sheathing? I always run it perpendicular to the strength axis
The one concern I have is the vertical corners left open to insert foam don't look connected with even blocks. A corner cracking later?
I’ve never had any problems with drywall, cracking or any movement
The number one mistake is deciding to be a framer ..😂😂 keep banging them together guys ..i had to give it after 32 years the ole knees went out ..
32 years of Framing … That’s a long time! 🙆♂️
@@BradtheBuilder yeh I quit school at 16 and went to work framing FHA homes ..switched over to Jim Walter then local builder
@@williamjones6053 what do you do that with your time now?
I operate a skidder and loader for my cousin logging
@@williamjones6053 I like being able to do that kind of work it’s rewarding and somewhat relaxing
If only all builders were like you.
You are so nice! Thanks ❤️👍
Great videos !!
are you comfortable with the number of jack studs under exterior headers??
Yes, do you think it needs more?
Brad this was a great video, thank you.
As a competitive frame carpenter and perfectionist LOL . . I as a framer would have not placed a stud so close to the corner .. I always back them off if it's too tight . Another is material use. With barked material or chamfered . I won't use them as T's or nailers .. I want a good face for drywall . I'll find use for them elsewhere such as cripples that are sistered to jacks or jacks sistered to kings . 2 opposing barked edges make a sharp edged king/jack ..Our saying is " Ugly In " .. One thing that makes me crazy " Many things do " is walking down a hall and seeing a 6'-8" door close to a C.O . and they have the same finish height !! . In the finish it looks like someone forgot the hinges and the door .. I'll raise the CO up 4"-6". It doesn't look welcoming ... I've had builders in the past insist on putting the header at the RO height .. I like to slam them to the top and frame down to the RO for many reasons . One it is a better load pathway with fewer intervals , It allows for head height correction if someone mistakenly frames it too low. It allows for punch out work in the dry , It allows me to harvest braces and other materials which are shorter for cripples .
That drives me crazy too when headers are dropped transitioning from hallway or from room to room, it’s unnecessary!
Great video!
Thanks for watching and also for reaching out!👍
How about the front door should it be eight foot or just use transom?
In a climate as cold as yours do you ever use exterior insulation?
I have never installed exterior insulation and I don’t see other builders doing that either! Actually, our climate isn’t all that cold except for a couple of weeks during the winter it will get below 20°
Hello there, what size nails are required to nail studs to the plates? Are 3" good enough?
You will need 3.25” nail (16 penny or 16d nails)
Great tips.
Thanks
You can fill the header gap with styrofoam sheets cut inside
Thank you for a great video
Thanks for watching
All great points you made and I agree 1000%!
Oh? Thanks 👍🤠
Framed R.O for Doors need to be a min of 2" each way, this guy is going 3" R.O on the height, that's OK, better a little to high than to low. Guy is a good builder, Job site is a mess, Stuff laying everywhere.
1st thing I noticed was all the trip hazards …all my job sites we take half hour to roll up and not leave a mess for the next day.
The 3rd inch is for hardwood flooring or tile. Always have to raise entrance door for tile or hardwood. Can't put a rug or mat inside if not.
Good tips!
Wouldn't it be better to place header more inside? So you can put heat insolation from the outside to prevent condensation inside of a wall. Simply to move dew point closer to exterior or completely of the wall.
no. you need solid nailing on the exterior
For what little thermal bridging is reduced with the insulation- I would go with the full thickness header for increased structural load & strength
@@michaelmcclurg9698I do not think that enough. Just to be on safe side , I would build 6 foot thick concrete walls
@@andreycham4797 California Mission building. 6 foot thick earth walls. Great for insulating not so good for earthquakes. (Some missions get 100°F summer days and are damn close to the San Andreas fault.)
Brad you hit the same pose every thumbnail haha love your channel!!
Thanks! 🤠
If you couldn't afford Advantech for your entire build but wanted to use it where absolutely necessary, what would that look like? Subfloor under kitchen and bath?
Yes, I would put it in the areas that’s going to get tile and high traffic areas… Definitely the kitchens and bathrooms
@@BradtheBuilder
Thanks much for the advice.
@@jshepard152 you are welcome 👍
All bark stud in garage, no bite. girder truss missing double stud supports
Great advice Brad! Thanks.
Nice job explaining the framing tips. Except for one big mistake. 99 is the 2nd best hockey player of all time. I'm from Boston so you know who #1 is. Thanks for the tips, great info.
I should know that…. But, don’t 🙆♂️
Mr. Orr
Nice tips , thank you.
Thanks for watching 👍❤️
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
I love Advantech. It's very worth the extra dollars spent.
I would agree too!
Good job camera man trying to keep the beer bottle out of frame😏
Thanks for the info. I’m in the process of building a home and these are very helpful. I wanted a 2x6 frame but my builder said with the options available I could also just upgrade the insulation with the 2x4 frame to help save some money. If there was a big difference structurally I would have to go with 2x6. Trying to pinch pennies where I can with todays market.
Your Builder is right!
Building with 2 x 4 wall construction is OK but, I would advise spending some of your savings on Open Cell spray foam for wall insulation to increase the R-value for long-term benefits. (Prices are crazy High 🙆♂️)
@@BradtheBuilder I will mention this to him. Thank you! 👍🏻
WE KNOW the structural element ,saying 2x4s are weaker is IRRELAVANT.,since its been done for 200 years ,but I would go 2x6 for sure ,and im the tightest builder in the world,
@@metalrooves3651 no point for 2x6 unless you want to spend extra cash and just do it for insulation purposes.
2x6 usually can go 24” o.c. Instead of 16” per 2x4
If I do a corner I insulate it as I go if you forget you could drill half inch holes and fill it with foam that way
It’s just a lot of extra work that can be forgotten
yeah i agree, when we frame we build a energy corner this eliminates all the problems you refer to in your video and makes it a breeze to insulate @@BradtheBuilder
@@chadrobbins9814 thanks for reaching out 👍