A lesson about Wall Sheathing in Residential Construction - TEACH Construction Trades Training
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- This lesson video covers the basics of sheathing in residential wall framing construction as part of our framing series. Learn about plates, common studs, headers, king studs, and jack studs.
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0:00 The purpose of sheathing
3:07 Sheathing materials and sizing
6:08 Sheathing fasteners and nailing patterns
9:00 Sheathing orientation, edge support, and gapping
12:30 Sheathing and exposure ratings
My husband and I are building a house. This channel is invaluable. Thank you!
Glad to hear it - thanks for joining us and be safe.
Well, is it done yet? How did it come out?
@@Carl-LaFong1618 Definitely not done yet. ha ha. We are building it ourselves and out of pocket, so we are taking our time with it. But we are about to move on to electric rough in, so that's exciting. With winter around the corner, I am happy to have some indoor work to do all winter.
With so many people on You Tube giving bad advice while claiming they are experts it's refreshing to see Joe giving accurate information that will pass framing inspection.
The debate for using either osb or fir plywood for wall sheathing has been going on for years, for structural strength I would give the edge to osb and for weathering to fir plywood. More important than that is to use 7/16" for a minimum thickness, I think 3/8 is too thin and 7/16 is just a bit more money.
This is a little off topic but for subfloors I think the best product is 3/4" premium T&G osb, it's denser, heavier and more rigid than fir plywood which is exactly what you want for a floor.
I agree on the 3/4 for subfloors - and thanks for the kind words.
I love these mini scale models this is the best carpentry channel
I am a carpentry student. Your video is informative, easy to understand, and well-organized. It helps a lot! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I just rebuilt both the garage overhead door wall and 30' of wall in the master bedroom and half bath. The butt walls on both sides have Masonite lap board under the siding rather than sheathing and needs to be replaced.👍
Good info. May I make a suggestion? You typically build the wall on the deck - studs and plates. Square it while it's lying down, then sheath it while it's still horizontal. Now when you tip it up, it's still square and sheathed. No climbing ladders with a 4x8 sheet, nor renting scaffolds.
Thanks for the comments and suggestion. We tried to make this series of classes more about the theory of framing vs the process. The process videos are separate, and unfortunately not available on TH-cam -
@@ConstructionEdwhy unfortunately? Are they behind a paywall? Good! Hard work deserves its price! Correct information is also priceless!
Unless you have a crane. That wall is crazy heavy to lift with sheathing.
@@ConstructionEd Absolutely, Processes for production framing is different from individual custom types homes, and commercial structures. Thanks for the information and for making this important distinction.
@@jonellwanger7258this is the internet. All information is out there somewhere. Don’t be greedy. And you wonder why there’s a labor shortage 😞
The Best teacher
Love the scale models. Really helps visualize the big picture.
Glad they helped.
I think you are amazing how you explain things, probably this is the best channel on youtube. Everything is put together so well. Congratulations.
Wow, thank you!
Woohoo, after listening to you, I now know what the lines on OSB mean. My master didn't tell me before, maybe my master doesn't know either. Every time I drive a nail, I have to draw lines to set the nail on the Studs. thank you very much.
I live in Japan and am doing my own renovations to a very old farm house. The biggest problem I have is sourcing materials to do this work; while there is a large Home Depot style store in town, it carries little to nothing of what I need. No vapor barrier material, no vapor barrier tape, no decent OSB or plywood sheathing, no siding material, and no window assemblies. It is without a doubt the biggest problem in my projects.
Your channel has been very informative. Thank you very much.
They stopped building very old houses a very long time ago! You sound very American. Hopefully you don't act very american! The fact that what your looking for isn't available probably means it's not needed. Why don't you check what the local contractors are using and try to act Japanese?
Just found these. Joe Carswell makes things easy and is a great presenter.
Thanks Dave
Thank you for these videos. I have subscribed. Very clear and informative and well explained.
I'm taking my architecture registration exams and have found this information very helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful
Excellent presentation
Simplicity at its finest. Thank you, so much to learn its awesome thank you so much for taking the time to teach 😊
You're very welcome!
Amazing channel. I've learned a lot from these videos, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Love your content and learning so much from them.. Thank you mate
Plz make a video for what comes after the sheating (vapor barrier, insulation, dry wall, cladding etc)
Vapor Barrier and Insulation will be part of our Building Science course available in a couple of months - and Drywall will be right behind that one.. But they will be on our e-learning portals for about a year before being released on our free TH-cam Channel. Check out BuildWrightAcademy.online for Building Science and TradeSkillsU.online for the trades courses.
Excellent tutorial . Thank you so much
you got it, thanks for watching
Great video.
I just finished Timber structural design course, and your videos helped me visualize how things work.
Great to hear!
Great video! You are doing great!
Thank you so much!
This is great to find! Im in the process if having to sheath my damaged garage wall. Ive seen things listed as structural rigid foam like R tech rigid foil faced foam. I dont live where their is tremors but we do have tornados on occasions
sheathing with insulation is really cool stuff - pun intended
Thank you. I’m about to redo the sheathing and cladding on my house and I’m starting from square one. Thank you. After this I’m moving on to tyvek house wrap. I’m in the Dallas area of North Texas.
You can do it!
Great video sir 👍
thank you sir
Best video's and easy tutorial
Glad you think so!
Where do you get the props? They are excellent for online training. Thanks Rod.
Thanks for the information. As a DIYer, I always wondered why people put sheathing sideways.
Thanks for watching.
As a diy’er sideways makes more sense to me as it will be stronger since you’re going across more studs.
@@nofurtherwest3474 Makes more sense that way. Thanks.
Maestro
Gracias por la información
Estoy bien agradecido y e aprendido mucho
Seguire viendo sus vídeos
Bendiciones
👍
de nada
Hi,
Thank you for the great video and the information within. I have a question, can I use 3/4” sheathing on 2X4 exterior walls?
you could - but not sure why you would...it is heavy and expensive
12:00 - re the 1/8" gap.... How is that handled in practice when after the first sheet, the edges no longer fall on the center of the rafters or studs and the discrepancy grows with every sheet? Are the sheets not 4x8 but rather 3'11⅞" x7'11⅞"?
Actual size is slightly undersize for that reason
Do you have a video on how to get into a trade?
would you use 1/2" OSB for roof decking? The framing is 24"OC.
Great video, should the gaps in sheathing be taped if using external WRB not ZIP. Also if using tongue and groove is the spacing still required? thanks and great video.
taping gaps should be considered when determining where your air barrier is and can change per climate zone. It is not just a tape everything situation
For building a shed on a concrete slab, what is the recommended gap between the sheet and the concrete pad? Should flashing be used between baseplate and sheet to cover any base plate exposure?
you should have enough of a gap to stop water from wicking to the siding. A J channel flashing is a good idea
Loving your videos, thank you! One thing I don’t understand yet is how OSB sheets can still fall on center / layout despite having to be flush at the edges of the walls or even overlapping with other sheathed walls in corners. Also, wouldn’t the 1/8 expansion gaps throw off the layout? Thank you!
Good question! - next time you are next to a sheet of OSB - pull a measurement and you will be surprised that they fall just a bit short. 4 ft. x 8 ft.; Actual: 0.451 in. x 47.875 in. x 95.875 in. Just enough for gapping ;)
@@ConstructionEd Thank you for the reply. How about in corners? Wouldn't it land on the center of the end stud and be short 3/4" of the edge of the wall (or more if overlapping with other wall)? Thanks again!
This is great, thank you! But one question. I am trying to find an explanation on whether to align the sheathing flush with the top or bottom plates. Sheathing is 96" however, a rough framed wall is 97 1/8" from top to bottom.
Bottom in most cases. Norbord has a product they call Tailboard that is longer than the normal 8 feet and can overlap to the second story for extra strength.
thanks. does sheathing need to be flashed with sill plate or goes down the sill?
Watch our window installation video - it covers flashing
Wood siding T -111 I believe. Removing some rotted pieces, realized that my home has no sheathing on this particular side of the home. Just a foam backer, then the interior insulation.
Sheathing is not required by code - unless it is needed as part of a sheer wall.
I am purchasing a David Weekley home in Katy, Houston. They us foam sheathing instead of OSB for most part of the house. Is it ok in Houston?
Sheathing is only required on shear walls - some builders use foam for installation when sheathing is not required. Often that happens when the finish siding is stucco.
in order to make the sheathing flush with end stud, should I leave a smaller space between end stud and first common stud?
Yes, you need to. His video about "Learn how to do Wall Framing Plate Layout, Step by Step" demostrated that. But he did not explain the reason so some people actually confused about why the distance between the end stud and the first common stud is shorter by 3/4".
We teach layout to beginners as marking 3/4'' shorter then the OC pattern so you can see your line when placing your studs.
I have a specific question related to a personal remodel project I'm working on. The house is in moist Climate Zone 3 (right on the edge of CZ 4). It was built in 1974, 2x4, 16" OC, R11 faced insulation, fiber board sheathing, no vapor barrier, 3.5" brick siding. Here is my problem: a significant (35%) portion of the original fiberboard sheathing has disintegrated. Now what!? I do not have the budget to tear off the brick and redo the siding. Is there any possibly way to air seal and protect from shear forces now?
It is possible that the original fiber board did not/not had to provide shear (not all walls need the shear support) you can use a retro foam insulation in the wall cavity. That will give you thermal control and vapor control
@@ConstructionEd Thank you for your reply. I stripped the house down to the studs on the inside. I used Dorken Delta Vent S on the bays where the fiber board was missing (to control vapor, provide a drain plane and air gap between insulation and the brick). Then came in with rockwool and purple drywall. I guess time will tell if it'll work. Cheers.
Question I know this would add a lot to the cost of a build but would it be worth it to sheath both the outside of the house with OSB and the inside of the wall then hang sheetrock with the goal being to build a stronger wall and quieter house?
While the wall would be quieter, there are better ways to accomplish that. Like installing a dense soundboard inside before the drywall. On the question of strength - more OSB may provide a better shear value - if that strength is not needed, it is just a waste of materials. In fact - most sheathing on the outside of the house is not needed (unless the engineer requires a shear wall). It is there to hold back the insulation and part of the air barrier assembly now required by energy code.
@@ConstructionEd thank you for your reply
When you space the sheathing 1/8", do you trim off a 1/6th from each sheet or do you cheat a few sheets and take 1/4 off one to get back on your 16 or 24 layout. It has always puzzled me why they don't simply make the sheathing 1/6th short. I suppose you could calculate this 16th into your layout but I've never seen anyone do it. I just picked up 24 sheets today and I will make the effort to leave the spacings.
And, thanks for the perimeter nailing factor on horizontal installations. I was going to do some horizontal installations to help pull together a long wall and I didn't consider the blocking, which I will do.
Check the actual measurements of your OSB. You may find that it is a 1/8 less than 4x8.
@@ConstructionEd I did, the day after I posted my comment. For the first time in my life I got some that was curt short. I was marked "sized for spacing" or something like that. :). Thanks.
Would adding sheathing to both sides of the wall increase its strength?
It could - but typically it is not needed. Sheathing is for shear strength not compression strength.
If you line up the sheathing flush with the outside edge of the edge stud then how would a 4' sheet of osb fall on center on the common stud?
When doing your layout - you should start by pulling from the end of the bottom plate. If this plate is on a thru wall - then edge of the OSB will fall on a common stud. We have a lesson on Layout also.
Hi I have a project of a tiny house 16x40 my question is when I build a wall I should build it in different pieces every 8' wall or I have to build a wall every 16' until I complete the 40' long?
Build a wall to the length that you can safely handle - just put your wall panel breaks in locations that will not interfere with other framing
@@ConstructionEd ok thank you for your help
🙏
Can i use fiber cement boards to close a back porch without sheathing?
Sheathing is only required when a sheet wall is called out or when the sheathing is part of an air barrier solution for energy code. If those to instances are not required then yes you can skip the sheathing.
Sir do you have a video on how to replace a top sill. I have termite damage
what do you mean by top sill? The Window sill, the top plate, or maybe the bottom plate ...or maybe the sill plate (the material directly on top of the foundation)
@@ConstructionEd Thank you for replying. It is the top sill plate, the 2 x 4 that holds the rafters. I see some termite damage and I need to replace it, but not sure how to do it.
@@miguelmurata9835 if you are talking about the very top plate of a wall, that's called the cap plate. To be honest, if termites made it that far up the wall to do damage, there's a good change of even more damage than just that one area.
I read that you should put the smooth side outside for better moisture resistance, but the lines are on the rough side, so my gut tells me the smooth-rough thing is bogus & the lines are most important. Am I right?
Another thing: we’re supposed to put 1/8” space between panels, but the panels are 4’x8’, & the studs are 16” on-center, therefore the junction is going to move 1/8” each & 4 sheets are going to be off by 1/2”, and 3/4” after 6, which brings you to the edge of the stud. Should people be offsetting the studs or trimming the sheathing!
The OSB should not be considered part of a moisture management solution. The house wrap on the outside is for Bulk Water management and then there are many other products for moisture management.
You are correct with the "creep" caused by the spacing. It is common that at least on of the panels gets cut before it is an issue.
Can somebody explain how the first sheet which covers the entire 1.5" width of the first stud properly lands in the middle of the 3rd stud as it's supposed to? For example, I get that with 16" OC studs a panel which lands *in the middle* of one stud will properly land in the middle of the 3rd stud down and so on. But the first panel needs to totally cover the first stud (not land in the middle), which means it breaks on the EDGE of the 3rd stud, no? What am I missing here?
Or do you just get around this by making a custom first sheet that lands in the middle of the second stud, 32" over, and then use a full sheet after that?
when marking out your layout - it is common to pull your measurement for the first stud from the corner of the wall. Meaning the hook of the tape is on the outside edge of the end stud. We have a video about the plate layout process that covers this.
❤😊
In your talk about nails you never mentioned construction screws. Are they not legal to use? If so, what are the parameters? BTW, i'm not in the trade. I'm building a 12X24 Workshop at my house. Thanks.
You can use screws for framing and sheathing, but they have to have a structural rating
@@ConstructionEd Thank you for such a quick reply.
@@papasmurf4009 I had just happened to be online - good luck building your shop
How can one person access all the lessons on your site? How much would it cost for 1 person?
you can visit TradeSkillsU.online if you are interested in the full lesson experience and additional content
Staples are not permitted by the IRC for exterior wall sheathing unless adopted by the AHJ.
We cover it because it is in the table
That's only for interior wall sheathing and not exterior
👍
thanks
These Wood Panelings Have Odor Especially the OSB. I Am Highly Sensitive to Odors. It Makes Me terribly Sick. I'm building a Small Room in the back of My House, I've Spent a Better part Of the past Weeks Browsing the Internet for Alternative to Wood Framing Panels. But Everything seems to be some type of Wood or Engineered wood. I would ideally like something with PVC or FRP that would have the Strength and Rigidity of Wood but without Odor. Do you have any ideas/suggestions??
Why does my OSB have tong and groove if they need spacing?
Not all OSB has a T&G. Sheathing and decking does not have the T&G because as you pointed out the spacing requirements. But Sub Floors do use T&G OSB - and those are connected tightly to each other.
@@ConstructionEd thanks for the reply. Am going to use it for walls, but its inside an insulated metal storage unit so i ope it wont expand or contract to much :)
What is the scale of your props
We made a video about that on our resources for teachers channel - here is the link th-cam.com/video/_A6u0oQ9Guw/w-d-xo.html
Im having a hard time understand how to work with the 1/8 in gap if the sheets are 4' even. At every four sheets, the fifth sheet no longer start on a stud. The sheets really should be 47.875" width.
ideally the gap will be in the middle of the sheets on a stud - so each is about 1/16 short. Good thing factory lengths and widths are rarely perfect. Rough framing does in fact have a lot of "making it work" instances. Also, while we try to get the layout right it is common that the stud placement is not perfect either - you will be cutting sheet goods to fit more than you like
Gapping allows materials to expand and contract with exposure to Exothermic expulsion... ALL materials are constantly expanding and contracting especially foam insulation expulsion of Chemicals ...OSB never looks the same after a few months in the Elements that's why we gap the sheeting otherwise it'll buckle
Another solution is if your gaps are too tight a contractor will cut with a skillsaw the seams to allow that gap
I also disagree with your comment that said factory lengths and widths are rarely perfect. Those edges are going to be your truest and straightest edges within the building itself based upon your sheet goods. As they are often laser cut with monster saws in monster factories downtown not just a guy holding a circular saw or a sawzall who does not have a true t-square, speed square in their pouch drawing and snapping lines.
Look at minute 12:50 in the video. The stamp on the sheet says "sized for spacing". These sheets are slightly undersized to accommodate the gap just like you said.
Where do we find an inspector, framing inspector…
there are 3rd party inspectors that you can hire - but they are not in all locations
I'm rebuilding an existing house. Major termite damage.
Big project, good luck
What if I have 9’ walls
then use 9' studs -
You can get 4x9 sheets if you need them.
Help
8 ‘ osb doesn’t span 8 foot wall
It is the same length of the 8 foot studs
Leaving gap of 4 1/2 inches
WHY?
I may not be following your example correctly. But if a wall is built, that is 8 feet long - then an 8 ft piece of OSB Should cover it. Your question sounds like your wall is longer than 8 feet
@@ConstructionEd thanks for responding
The standard stud at Marvin’s is 8 foot
The base, top, and cap adds 4 1/2 inches
I would have to cut my studs from 96 down to 91.5 inches to cover wall
I don’t understand what I am missing
Ah - I see; I thought you were talking about length, not height. An 8-foot wall is typically 8 feet from bottom to top - including the plates. So yes, your 8-foot studs would be cut down. Look in the bins at the store - often, they also sell stud-length lumber. Here in Colorado those are 92 5/8 and are in the bin next to the 8-foot studs
I am not sure of the particular build you are referring to - but often, sheathing is done in longer boards so it covers the plates AND the exterior of the floor framing on the second story. Norboard sells a specific product for that called tall board.
@@ConstructionEd thanks
I have watched a 100 videos and never seen anyone cut the studs
Just built a shooting house and have been scratching my head
I was today years old when I noticed
This dude sounds like Pastor: Kenneth Copeland and definitely looks like him hahahaha where is your airplane budd 😅😅😅
that one I will share with Joe - Pastor Joe ha ha
Remember kids, measure twice, cut one. 🤣🤣
I always tell myself that, and then still end up cutting twice sometimes.
According to APA you cannot just rotate OSB whenever you feel like there is actually a way that it runs and the wood chips within the OSB should be to be perpendicular to the studs. For proper wall strength. The information you're giving out around minute 10 is incorrect.
Otherwise nice video and content I can't do any better.
I will look at the APA standards - thanks for the comment
8d is pronounced 8 penny.
We use both terms. In our fasteners lesson we also cover both. When referring to code compliance we try to say “8d” as that is what is what the learner will see in the code book.
How to read cm on a tape
use a metric tape measure
👍📐🔨
Great way to use trash materials add the term "sheathing" public is sold. Throw some osb backed lp siding you can throw em up fast. 5k-6k sq ft dream home starting at the 900's. Good luck 10 years from now when the subs come on the weekend skip steps your sheating will swell and lose its original purpose. Fail steps on the deck Sill plates will rot out.
Just curious, What material are you recommending for sheathing and why