U151E Disassembly
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- 2008 Toyota Sienna
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransm...
Transtar: www.transtar1....
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fi...
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource...
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havent even made it 5 mins in, and this is a no nonsense to the point vid 👍. Question for you. Is this (this exact trans, i've got a 05 highlander for reference) something you would say a "non transmission specialist" could do, or would you recommend the money to send it out? (also if there is a better way to reach out to you, let me know. Thanks)
If you are mechanically inclined and have a way to compress the springs in the clutch drums I would say it is doable. Hardest parts on this one is installing the planet in the case and the valve body. If you are wanting to have a conversation, Instagram. CurmudgeonTransmission.
Tom, your video with the big help to me ! Since it’s my own vehicle and my fluid was still spotless, I just replaced the forward planet, it was snapped like the one in the video. Unfortunately I was only able to get used one. My question is does this problem occur often the planet snapping ?
Glad it helped. I have only seen a couple snapped. Usually the whole assembly goes, so you will probably be ok.
👏👏👏💯
Appears to be exceedingly complicated compared to other FWD. I would assume more labor time added to the estimate.
Little bit.
Do you have a recommended source for planetary carrier thrust washers and needle bearings? I want to replace both on the 1-way clutch inner race and can't find a thing online. Toyota dealership was no help either. Awesome video, by the way!
Thanks. WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description.
Amazing video break down !! I Have a similar trans in a 2004 Toyota Solara which has been serviced twice (1st @ 60K miles and 2nd at 97k miles) the car is at 98K miles . The trans began to make a whining sound when cold after I had the Lower control arms replaced which required puling the right side axle out due to some difficulty replacing some other stuff. ( I did top back up with 1.4 quarts of ATF after some loss from the Axel being removed) . The trans whines, but it also sounds like air is being forced through something. These two sounds only occur right before shifting at 1800-2000 rpm. The car shifts fine and the whine isn't present when idling or In reverse. In addition, the whine is nearly non-existent after a 20 min drive. I am of the assumption that something was damaged during the suspension rebuild. What are your inputs?
Thanks. Noises are tough even when you are there to hear them. If you could record the noise and either go to my Instagram and send it to me or post it on your channel I will take a listen and see what I think.
Great vid Tom. How tough of a rebuild is this compared to other automatics? I have a u151f with 309k. It has picked up a nasty vibration that I think is slop where the half shafts go in. Seems sloppy on both sides. Maybe I am foolish but I might try this as my first tranny rebuild.
Medium to medium hard, if that makes sense. At the time I first started seeing them I thought they were hard, now they don't seem to bad compared to what is showing up in the shop.
Hola compi soy de Apodaca como q desarmas alo puro buey te falta mucho para poder explicar saludos gringolight
lo siento pero si no te gusta como lo hago busca otro canal que llene tus espectatibas.....
Hi Tom, hope you had a nice day!
Question i had a volvo yesterday with some issues and it has a automatic transmission Aisin warner 55-51 sn, and i could smell the oil burning from the transmission!! I even had a warning for that for a few seconds. What could be the cause of that, your opinion? It shifts further just normal.
Is this before or after repair?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I didnt repair the car yet! I dont know what the problem is yet, some air intake issues. But i did change the at oil a few weekes ago.
When you say shifts further just normal. Are you saying it is shifting late? With the air intake issues, are you having to give it a lot more gas to go? Does this have the cooler warmer on the transmission or does it have cooler lines going to the radiator?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission It shifts like it should. Perfect. But when the air intake issues start, it goes in limpmode and losse power. And sometimes you need to give more gas. The coolerlines goes in to cooler fixed to the radiator.
Fix your air intake problem first and I bet your overheating problem will be gone. It is probably from being driven in limp mode.
Супер!
Thanks
Hi, so by buying a valve body, do you mean a brand new on from the dealership? Or maybe a reman?
I have had good success using the Sonnax zip kits and with reman vb's on these. Of course brand new works the best.
Thanks man! So I see a sonnax zip kit that says it doesn't require any reaming for this valve body but i heard you say that you need a reaming tool. Do you think the kit that doesn't require reaming will suffice?@@CurmudgeonTransmission
If the only valves that are worn out are in the zip kit, yes. If any of the others are you will need the reamers or buy a reman or new.
Hello Tom, I have a 2008 sienna that drives perfect for the first 20-30 mins then it starts acting erratic dropping gears slipping then I let sit for 10 mins then it drives perfect again. I hope its something simple to fix?
Sounds like sensor acting up. You will have to watch data on a scanner. Look at TPS, Neutral Switch, Speed Sensors. Check your grounds and battery connections. Scan for codes.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hello Tom, Thanks for your reply. Yesterday I went for another short drive to store and I got these codes. P2714 Pressure control solenoid D stuck off, P0771 Shift solenoid E performance/stuck off, P0776 Pressure control solenoid B performance/stuck off. I'm no expert but I think I better go check the wiring. Because a few months ago my 2013 rav4 had all the dash warning lights on and it turn out be mice eat some of the wires!!!
Hi Tom, Yep you where right I found a connector on the trans that was not seated all the way. So over time it must have worked its way loose causing the symptoms. So I cleaned it up properly reconnected it and took it for a hour and half Drive and "All is well" Thank you so much. Its nice to know that in this "upside down world" there are still good people out there! God bless brother.
@@TallStarlite Glad you found it.
How the heck do you remember all the parts of the transmission 🤔
It's just what I do. Same way anyone does what they do all day long for years and years. It just gets stuck in there after a while. Lol.
How much to rebuild the transmission of a 2006 Lexus RX 330?
I really don't know anymore. Parts have gotten outrageous and it all depends on the damage.
When cold, my U151E won't shift from 3-4, or from 4-5 without bringing the rpms up to 2400. The 4-5 shift seems to need more warming up before shifting properly. When they do shift at 2400rpm, it seems to flare 200rpm up, then jerk into the next gear.
Is it the valve body, or can I get away with just 7 solenoids?
Also, how do you disconnect the connectors to the solenoids? If I were to unbolt the valve body from the transmission while it's on the car, would the springs pop out?
These valve bodies are always worn out. As far as the solenoids, it is hard to say. For what you are going to pay for them you can get a whole valve body probably. In the center of the connector to the solenoid, pry up slightly and the wire will come out. Yes, you will have the cooler bypass valve, an accumulator and springs fall out. Really need 2 people and some thick Transgel, I use the green for this, to put it back in.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
So you mean the U151E's valve body is well known for having worn valve bodies?
I spoke to a guy from Sunbelt Transmission Warehouse, and he said last week he worked on a U151E that had the valve body worn out, and would resell them after installing zip kits, and new, or at least working properly solenoids.
Sometimes you can put a zip kit in, other times you will need to bore them out to put oversized valves in it. You just have to look it over after you get it apart and make a judgement call.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Welp, I'm not putting in zip kits myself... But I know they work, if they work.
I'd take a look at getting a remanufactured valve body that already has the zip kit in it, along with working solenoids and everything. The cost is only $600ish for all of that.
@@TheChildTrain Might be the best. The zip kit is running around 400 right now I think, plus the labor to put it in.
What was the mileage?
Don't remember.