With new cars, I change the factory fill at 500 miles. Next oil change at 1,500 miles. Next oil change at 3,000 miles. Next at 5,000 miles. Then go to 10,000 miles. Gets the break-in metals out quickly After that go with what you want. 5k-7.5k or 10k oci. I use Purolator Boss PBL14615. It meets Subaru’s bypass specs. Best overall filter performance. I use Valvoline Restore & Protect 0w-20. Great video.
Some tidbits from page 535 in the 2025 Forester Owner's manual: Changing the oil and oil filter= 4.7 qt Changing the oil only = 4.4 qt Adding oil from L to F level = 1.1 qt
Very interesting to change the oil yourself. The engine bay in your Forester appears so organized with all the components easily reacheable. Very neat.
Yeah, Subaru does a good job making most maintenance pretty easy and straight forward without silly plastic engine covers and unnecessary confusion. Thanks for watching! 🙂
Glad to see you have the Black Japan OEM filter. My dealer only sells the Blue USA filters which are not as good so i order them packs of 6 from Amazon, cheaper than the dealer and you get the good JDM filters. Your filter was WAY too tight - repair shops and dealers will do that to prevent drip complaints, I fill the filter full and it doesn't drip much. Then get it dry and just use your grip - works just fine, no drips and sometimes you can remove it by hand. I have 112k miles on a 2015 Outback with the 2.5 NA boxer and an Avalon v6 - i just let it cool 30 min and then reach under it and remove the plug.
Great insight! I actually cut out the very beginning of attempting to get the filter loose because it was so ridiculously tight haha. I also should have shown the filter to show the indentations from my tool just to emphasize why bare hands (at least line) aren’t strong enough to get it off when it’s that over tightened. 🤪
Just changed the oil on my 2025 Forester for the first time. I was surprised that there was no oil crush washer included with the Subaru Part # 15208AA21A oil filter, the same part number shown in the video. Nor was there a crush washer installed at the factory. Perhaps that is now by design, but will be periodically checking under the car for drops. Also will check in with the dealer the next time I am there.
When I bought the filter the parts guy specifically asked if I wanted the crush ring, I’m surprised you weren’t offered that. I’ll be honest, I don’t think ours came with a crush ring from the factory. I thought it did because the top ring of the thread by the nut head was silver, but I couldn’t loosen it so I figured that was just the coloring and regardless the new crush ring will seal the connection.
I was always taught that after adding just under the full amount of oil, turn the engine on and let it idle for a couple of minutes to fully circulate, then turn the engine off and give the oil time to drain back down into the pan, then re-check. That should be more accurate. Anyway, that’s how I’ve done mine for decades. Thanks again!!
Great video! One thing my torque wrench instructions stated was that before putting up the torque wrench, be sure to set it to its lowest setting to help prevent it from coming out of calibration. I would imagine most are like this? Thanks again, Alex!
I believe the oil fill cap says 0w20, and I probably shouldn’t say I haven’t read the manual but… 😅😉 Thank you for pointing this out and even sighting the page number, I really appreciate it!
@@oscarjohn3356 0W16 oil is meant to squeeze out a bit more MPG. It does save a tiny bit, but it is proven in the standard bearing wear tests to cause more wear than thicker oil. I think that long term wear is more important, so I use Moble1 0W30
Thank you for such thorough instructions. I am a first time Subaru owner and just bought a 2025 Forester. Could you tell me where you bought the Oil Filter and what is the model # of it? Also, any other oil brand that you'd recommend besides Kirkland?
Thanks! Also, I actually said this was 0W20 like the older cars, it’s actually 0W16. I buy authentic Subaru filters or Wix brand from the parts store. And before Kirkland I use to like Mobile1. I had no reason for liking it other than I just did haha.
Just hit 2,000 miles/4 months on our 25 Forester Sport. Got ready to do my 2nd break-in oil change and discovered CVT fluid under the car. Seems like the ATF Cooler (heat exchanger) is leaking. Off to get it repaired under warranty, but another reason to do your own oil changes and look around while you're under there.
I’m sorry to hear that it’s leaking. I’d love to hear back what the fix is. But very true! The more you know the better off you’ll be, especially when it comes to your vehicle.
@AutomotiveAnonymous208 Still in progress. Subaru tech couldn't isolate the leak, so they told me to drive 500 miles and bring it back. I'm at 2,700 miles now and still have a leak, so it goes back to the dealer on Tuesday.
Does the OEM oil filter come with a crush washer or do you store it there so you know where it’s at when needed? Our maintenance plans for an Outback and Crosstrek came with 6 oil changes. Plan to DYI it when those are used up.
I’m assuming the dealership will ask if you want to include the crush ring with the filter. Some people buy them in bulk online for cheaper, but I usually just spend the $10-11 at the dealership for both and then I buy my oil separately. Another option, which I have no personal experience with is buying something like a fumoto drain plug so that you never need to change out the drain plug and crush ring again. Best of luck!!
Great video! Where do you usually take the oil that was drained? Im due for an oil change on my Forester and would like to know where to discard it. Thanks 👍🏻
How would you compare this to changing the CVT fluid? (Is servicing the CVT fluid lot or a little more complicated/involved?) Of course it's way too early for your 2025 Forester, but any experiences with past Subarus or any vehicles with a CVT? Thanks for this guide, by the way!
Now I’m no mechanic, but I think older school traditional transmissions are rather easy, depending on what the vehicles under body looks like. There should be a drain plug and then a fill plug. But to my understanding these Subaru CVTs need not only the fluid changed but a higher end OBD2 computer to sequence you through a strange relearning protocol. It’s not just a cheap scan tool but a tool that most non mechanics would never opt to buy. If I get my fluid changed in the next year while I own my Outback I’ll see if I can film it!!
Don’t need to prefill the filter before installing it; when you get back in your car after changing the oil, put your foot on the gas completely and then turn the key for 5 - 10 seconds. It’ll circulate the oil without starting the car, and will get your filter filled up.
not a great plan on a newer car, the motor is still spinning (without oil) to run the pump that fills the empty oil filter. Most newer cars will start and your foot is mostly to the carpet so it's Wide Open - with no oil - now THAT's not good at all. Now on a race motor you might pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill to move that heated oil not only through the filter but into all the galleys and then turn the motor a little to let it into the lifters... or you could have a dry sump electric oil pump ... and your foot on the floor would work on most old consumer carbs.
I’m sorry I don’t know off hand. The parts stores or Subaru dealership I buy them from always offers it so I haven’t ever thought about it. I do know you can search for it and buy them in bulk for cheap online like Amazon. But I don’t want to mention a mm size incase that’s wrong where I haven’t ordered them first hand.
Please be very careful when using those plastic ramps to rise your car on. They can collapse in a split second. I recommend a very good pair of steel ramps. Setting them on a piece of cardboard helps to keep them in place while driving on. Otherwise, I really enjoyed your video.
I go to Walmart now. 54 dollars for a full synthetic oil change, take about an hour. Cheaper than a lot of places. If you dont have preference, they use full synthetic Castrol oil. Plus they vaccuum your car too.
I do 3k miles, OEM Filter, correct Mobile 1 oil and it's still way cheaper than the dealer every 7.5k miles. FYI you don't get the oil you pay for, once they didn't change my Toyota's oil filter - it was a little thing that Jiffy lube must not have had in the shop - it had tool marks on it but they do not have the OEM filters so they must have just put it back on the motor.
I got an Outback from a Subaru dealer with 29k miles, I changed the oil at 33k, they changed it at 37,5k - I changed it at 42k and found MY oil filter (not changed by dealer) with the oil drain plug WAY over tight - do they use air tools? So I bet that was an OIL change, hold the filter? At 45k I took it 50 miles away to the Webster Subaru dealer - they stamped my warrantee booklet and didn't over tighten the drain plug, but my old filter was marked just as i expected, so i bet that was the 'check the oil' ... not our customer & the warrantee-is-almost-over - wasn't that quick? and look, no drips! We gladly accept the other dealer's $40 oil change coupon, thanks for the $40 --- BYE!! Don't expect other people to do your work - they may accept your cash but they will not do your work. I dare you to put a little scratch on the back of your filter.
I bought a new 2025 Forester. When I did the 1st oil change, I saw that the oil filter was empty when it shouldn’t be. This is because the anti-drain down prevention flapper doesn’t work as expected. This causes dry starts every morning which is very bad in the long run. Also there is no oil pressure gauge in this car, I believe to hide this issue.
@@scottbaker9066 I use the correct oil filters that came on my car. Subaru (black) Made in Japan 15208AA160 The oil light that you referenced only comes on when the running motor oil pressure drops to 1.5PSI and the engine is toasted
@@scottbaker9066 I use the correct oil filter just like the one that came on my Forester from the factory in Japan. The Subaru black (made in Japan) 15208AA160. They drain to empty!
With new cars, I change the factory fill at 500 miles. Next oil change at 1,500 miles. Next oil change at 3,000 miles. Next at 5,000 miles. Then go to 10,000 miles. Gets the break-in metals out quickly After that go with what you want. 5k-7.5k or 10k oci. I use Purolator Boss PBL14615. It meets Subaru’s bypass specs. Best overall filter performance. I use Valvoline Restore & Protect 0w-20. Great video.
Great insight, thank you for sharing and for watching!!
Thanks for sharing👍
Subarus with the oil filter on top (current 2.5 & 2.4turbo) are the easiest vehicles to change the oil on I’ve ever had. 😁
Absolutely! And with the ground clearance if you’re very mobile you don’t even need to lift it lol.
Some tidbits from page 535 in the 2025 Forester Owner's manual:
Changing the oil and oil filter= 4.7 qt
Changing the oil only = 4.4 qt
Adding oil from L to F level = 1.1 qt
Thank you for sharing this!! Also, I mis read the oil cap. It is 0w16 NOT 0w20, which is what I like to use.
Very interesting to change the oil yourself. The engine bay in your Forester appears so organized with all the components easily reacheable. Very neat.
Yeah, Subaru does a good job making most maintenance pretty easy and straight forward without silly plastic engine covers and unnecessary confusion. Thanks for watching! 🙂
Glad to see you have the Black Japan OEM filter. My dealer only sells the Blue USA filters which are not as good so i order them packs of 6 from Amazon, cheaper than the dealer and you get the good JDM filters. Your filter was WAY too tight - repair shops and dealers will do that to prevent drip complaints, I fill the filter full and it doesn't drip much.
Then get it dry and just use your grip - works just fine, no drips and sometimes you can remove it by hand.
I have 112k miles on a 2015 Outback with the 2.5 NA boxer and an Avalon v6 - i just let it cool 30 min and then reach under it and remove the plug.
Great insight! I actually cut out the very beginning of attempting to get the filter loose because it was so ridiculously tight haha. I also should have shown the filter to show the indentations from my tool just to emphasize why bare hands (at least line) aren’t strong enough to get it off when it’s that over tightened. 🤪
I've changed my own oil for almost 40 years. For me, it's not about saving money. It's about doing the job correctly using top-shelf oil and filters.
That’s awesome, and I agree! There’s a lot of benefits to doing this yourself. Thanks for sharing!
Love these videos of the forester man ! Keep them coming! Especially the DIY ones
Just changed the oil on my 2025 Forester for the first time. I was surprised that there was no oil crush washer included with the Subaru Part # 15208AA21A oil filter, the same part number shown in the video. Nor was there a crush washer installed at the factory. Perhaps that is now by design, but will be periodically checking under the car for drops. Also will check in with the dealer the next time I am there.
When I bought the filter the parts guy specifically asked if I wanted the crush ring, I’m surprised you weren’t offered that. I’ll be honest, I don’t think ours came with a crush ring from the factory. I thought it did because the top ring of the thread by the nut head was silver, but I couldn’t loosen it so I figured that was just the coloring and regardless the new crush ring will seal the connection.
I was always taught that after adding just under the full amount of oil, turn the engine on and let it idle for a couple of minutes to fully circulate, then turn the engine off and give the oil time to drain back down into the pan, then re-check. That should be more accurate. Anyway, that’s how I’ve done mine for decades. Thanks again!!
Great video! One thing my torque wrench instructions stated was that before putting up the torque wrench, be sure to set it to its lowest setting to help prevent it from coming out of calibration. I would imagine most are like this? Thanks again, Alex!
Thanks! I think most of them are like that, at least the mechanical setup ones, thank you for sharing this!!
Why are you using 0W20? My 2025 Forester Manual p. 534 says to use 0W16. Thanks for your excellent videos.
I believe the oil fill cap says 0w20, and I probably shouldn’t say I haven’t read the manual but… 😅😉 Thank you for pointing this out and even sighting the page number, I really appreciate it!
@@oscarjohn3356 0W16 oil is meant to squeeze out a bit more MPG.
It does save a tiny bit, but it is proven in the standard bearing wear tests to cause more wear than thicker oil.
I think that long term wear is more important, so I use Moble1 0W30
Fill cap on oil shows 0w16 oil
My 2025 Forester fill cap says 0W16
I will use 0W16. First change at 1500/2000 mi. I would change at 500/1000 mi. if I knew for fact that it didn't have come with 'break- in' oil.
Thank you for such thorough instructions. I am a first time Subaru owner and just bought a 2025 Forester. Could you tell me where you bought the Oil Filter and what is the model # of it? Also, any other oil brand that you'd recommend besides Kirkland?
Thanks! Also, I actually said this was 0W20 like the older cars, it’s actually 0W16. I buy authentic Subaru filters or Wix brand from the parts store. And before Kirkland I use to like Mobile1. I had no reason for liking it other than I just did haha.
I use a 2 Gallon Home Depot bucket when I drain the oil on my 3.6r , much easier than those oil drain pans.
That’s a great idea!
Just hit 2,000 miles/4 months on our 25 Forester Sport. Got ready to do my 2nd break-in oil change and discovered CVT fluid under the car. Seems like the ATF Cooler (heat exchanger) is leaking. Off to get it repaired under warranty, but another reason to do your own oil changes and look around while you're under there.
I’m sorry to hear that it’s leaking. I’d love to hear back what the fix is. But very true! The more you know the better off you’ll be, especially when it comes to your vehicle.
@AutomotiveAnonymous208 Still in progress. Subaru tech couldn't isolate the leak, so they told me to drive 500 miles and bring it back. I'm at 2,700 miles now and still have a leak, so it goes back to the dealer on Tuesday.
Does the OEM oil filter come with a crush washer or do you store it there so you know where it’s at when needed? Our maintenance plans for an Outback and Crosstrek came with 6 oil changes. Plan to DYI it when those are used up.
I’m assuming the dealership will ask if you want to include the crush ring with the filter. Some people buy them in bulk online for cheaper, but I usually just spend the $10-11 at the dealership for both and then I buy my oil separately. Another option, which I have no personal experience with is buying something like a fumoto drain plug so that you never need to change out the drain plug and crush ring again. Best of luck!!
Great video! Where do you usually take the oil that was drained? Im due for an oil change on my Forester and would like to know where to discard it. Thanks 👍🏻
To my understanding just about any auto parts store will take it to dispose of it for free, it’s a complementary service they do. Best of luck!!
@@AutomotiveAnonymous208 Thank you!
How would you compare this to changing the CVT fluid? (Is servicing the CVT fluid lot or a little more complicated/involved?)
Of course it's way too early for your 2025 Forester, but any experiences with past Subarus or any vehicles with a CVT?
Thanks for this guide, by the way!
Now I’m no mechanic, but I think older school traditional transmissions are rather easy, depending on what the vehicles under body looks like. There should be a drain plug and then a fill plug. But to my understanding these Subaru CVTs need not only the fluid changed but a higher end OBD2 computer to sequence you through a strange relearning protocol. It’s not just a cheap scan tool but a tool that most non mechanics would never opt to buy. If I get my fluid changed in the next year while I own my Outback I’ll see if I can film it!!
Don’t need to prefill the filter before installing it; when you get back in your car after changing the oil, put your foot on the gas completely and then turn the key for 5 - 10 seconds. It’ll circulate the oil without starting the car, and will get your filter filled up.
That’s great insight, thanks for sharing!!
not a great plan on a newer car, the motor is still spinning (without oil) to run the pump that fills the empty oil filter.
Most newer cars will start and your foot is mostly to the carpet so it's Wide Open - with no oil - now THAT's not good at all.
Now on a race motor you might pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill to move that heated oil not only through the filter but into all the galleys and then turn the motor a little to let it into the lifters... or you could have a dry sump electric oil pump ... and your foot on the floor would work on most old consumer carbs.
What size is the crush ring for this vehicle
I’m sorry I don’t know off hand. The parts stores or Subaru dealership I buy them from always offers it so I haven’t ever thought about it. I do know you can search for it and buy them in bulk for cheap online like Amazon. But I don’t want to mention a mm size incase that’s wrong where I haven’t ordered them first hand.
Please be very careful when using those plastic ramps to rise your car on. They can collapse in a split second. I recommend a very good pair of steel ramps. Setting them on a piece of cardboard helps to keep them in place while driving on. Otherwise, I really enjoyed your video.
That’s a great point, thanks for sharing and providing this tip!!
I always put it on snug, then one quarter turn.
As soon as you turned that filter over the oil you poured into it drained out.
I miss the days of $20 oil changes. Now, they want upwards of $100.
I go to Walmart now. 54 dollars for a full synthetic oil change, take about an hour. Cheaper than a lot of places. If you dont have preference, they use full synthetic Castrol oil. Plus they vaccuum your car too.
Good job change that oil BEFORE the manufacture recommends
I do 3k miles, OEM Filter, correct Mobile 1 oil and it's still way cheaper than the dealer every 7.5k miles.
FYI you don't get the oil you pay for, once they didn't change my Toyota's oil filter - it was a little thing that Jiffy lube must not have had in the shop - it had tool marks on it but they do not have the OEM filters so they must have just put it back on the motor.
In my region (southern USA) Subaru covers all of the maintenance for the first 2 years for free. Is this not a thing up north?
That’s awesome, nope, at least not in my area unfortunately.
I got an Outback from a Subaru dealer with 29k miles, I changed the oil at 33k, they changed it at 37,5k - I changed it at 42k and found MY oil filter (not changed by dealer) with the oil drain plug WAY over tight - do they use air tools? So I bet that was an OIL change, hold the filter?
At 45k I took it 50 miles away to the Webster Subaru dealer - they stamped my warrantee booklet and didn't over tighten the drain plug, but my old filter was marked just as i expected, so i bet that was the 'check the oil' ... not our customer & the warrantee-is-almost-over - wasn't that quick? and look, no drips! We gladly accept the other dealer's $40 oil change coupon, thanks for the $40 --- BYE!!
Don't expect other people to do your work - they may accept your cash but they will not do your work.
I dare you to put a little scratch on the back of your filter.
I bought a new 2025 Forester.
When I did the 1st oil change, I
saw that the oil filter was empty when it shouldn’t be.
This is because the anti-drain down prevention flapper doesn’t work as expected.
This causes dry starts every morning which is very bad in the long run.
Also there is no oil pressure gauge in this car, I believe to hide this issue.
get the black OEM JDM filter- they are not defective - you should not see the oil light every morning
@@scottbaker9066 I use the correct oil filters that came on my car.
Subaru (black) Made in Japan
15208AA160
The oil light that you referenced only comes on when the running motor oil pressure drops to 1.5PSI and the engine is toasted
@@scottbaker9066
I use the correct oil filter just like the one that came on my Forester from the factory in Japan.
The Subaru black (made in Japan) 15208AA160.
They drain to empty!