Great video. My dtr's washing machine seems to have exactly the same problem. You made taking the gears apart seem easy. Lover you explanations, and now I'm not afraid to take it apart and fix it.
Great video. One of the best recommendations from you has been the Harbor Freight 4 in 1 screwdriver! That thing is now my number one workhorse tool. Heck I’ve even started giving them away to my friends. At $1.49 (current price), you can’t beat it. Cheers my friend.
at 2:30, my parts are PERFECT and fit together without any issue. however, they get stuck between the engaged and disengaged points and the very ends click louder than hell as they're unable to maintain position without being completely engaged. I'm assuming the actuator isn't keeping them all the way on or all the way off judging by the their 'in between' position when I turned it on its side and pulled the cover off. Does this sound right?
Perfection. Wish u would do it with the twist kind of washer it was a pain to put back together and I’m 9 months pregnant so me doing in is saying something!!
Thank you so much for this video! My washer started making this sound the other day and your video helped me fix it myself, saving me over $200! I got the part today and had it installed in about 20 minutes altogether. You're amazing and your instructions were so easy to follow.
Hey man i have a very similar washer from amana, from what i can see during diagnostics, the agitator works perfectly fine, but in spin, the agitator spins really fast and does this horrible clanking while the inner basket does not keep up at all. And the inner basket seems low causeing the base of the agitator to be about and inch and a half above the bottom of the inner basket instead of flush with the bottom. any idea whats up with it?
My Whirlpool washer is about 2 years old and was making a loud grinding noise. What I found was that the big pulley nut was very loose and shaving the nylon cover. I tightened up the nut but I'm assuming it came loose again. I'll clean the nut and thread and check all parts then add blue thread lock.
Your videos are so helpful!.. I started my appliance business thanks to your inspiration!… I hope you don’t mind me asking a question?… I’ve got a samsung dryer that runs for a very long time and doesn’t stop until i open the door. it drys great but doesn’t end cycle on it’s own. Any suggestions what might be causing that to happen??. Maybe the main PCB or the moisture sensor?. I appreciate your input and time!. Thank you.
I’m glad you got into the appliance flipping business. It’s a good business. I’m definitely not an expert on Samsung but I would recommend you join the Facebook group “Appliance Refurbish and Repair” Every question you ever have can easily be answered by those guys.
@@garrettrambo6650 the issue ios in the relay in the main control board try smacking the board over by the start relay and see if that fixes it if so need a new one.
Did you make sure you coated all those moving plastic pieces in silicone grease? Did you reuse any of the old parts? Were you able to move (after everything was together) the arm on the actuator freely into spin and agitate?
The plastic gears that mesh together is called a Splutch. The arm that moves with the little motor to shift it into spin or agitate is called a actuator.
Slightly OT, but the MayTag post I asked you a question on seems to have been left behind. Do you know of any vid showing disassembly of a model SDE4606AYH or similar Maytag electric dryer? I've never had any trouble getting into any dryer, but, THIS one has a construction I've never seen before. Basically, the sides and rear are all one piece (except for the back panel behind the controls.) That forms a giant "C" as viewed from above, standing on the left side of the dryer. None of the other panels seem to pop apart -- everything that starts to separate seems to have a screw behind it. There are screws along the bottom of the "C", but I can't see that taking them out gets me into the dryer chassis. How the heck does this thing come apart?
I couldn’t find anything for that model. My guess would be there is a thin push point. You may have to push it with a putty knife. Hope that helps. Good luck.
I got a WP Cabrio that is kind of loud, but not terribly loud on spin. Was going to do the bearing job, but once I tried to take out the tub I got a case of the f*@# its and walked away. Now I see that it could be just the clutch. It isn't Jet Engine Taking Off loud, just a bit louder than normal. I'll give it a whirl. The funny thing is the repair videos I see for the bearing job all show a model with a BLDC DD motor, but the one I have is belt driven like this. Thanks!
I just bought a new Amana washer from Lowe’s and it done this on first wash at end of cycle. I was like what the heck and started another load to which it Did Not do it again. But today 2 weeks later and several loads it just done it again. Both times at end of cycle. Do you think it’s the same thing on a new unit? Definitely same annoying grinding sound noise
Could be. Those washers are not built great by any means. If you just add a little white lithium, grease or silicone, lubricant spray and move that arm back-and-forth and make sure it easily moves. It may solve it. A lot of the times it’s that arm not be able to move easily causing the problem to start with. But if you’re still under warranty, I would just swap it out.
Im pretty sure this is what i got going on, but when i was taking the shifter off, opposite the motor where the sensor is has something leaking onto it. What would cause this? How to stop ot?
Does it seem like oil? Sometimes those gear cases have a seal that starts to leak. There’s no easy fix to a gear case starting to leak oil. The seal is not replaceable. There is a TH-cam video on a guy that pushed a little bit of grease around the shaft where the oil is leaking through and slowed it. I’m not sure if that was a permanent fix though.
Well I bought another splutch kit / cam. Different places call it Different things, so I've found out. This time I sprayed the shit out of all the plastic pieces with silicone spray and once you get the cap slid into all four slots ( which I had to pry on the little slot a little bit with a flat screwdriver because it was a pain) then put the actuator motor back on and make sure you can move where the male goes into female all the way up and down or back and forth. If it's moves by using your hand you should be ok to put the pulleys back on.
Make sure you use all of the new plastic parts. The first time I reused the old cap piece because I could get it in the slots easier and that is what my problem was. It was just wearing out my other new pieces a lot quicker
@@yumajosh01219 this may not work, but it’s a free thing to thy. recalibrating. It could be that the shifter arm is not fully moving into position and sometimes recalibrating. We’ll fix that. Good luck I hope it helps.
Thanks so much for this video. I fixed my washer in about 30 minutes thanks to you!
Swapped out the part but I’m still getting that noise. Any suggestions?
Hi, my friend! Was able to fix the washer with this video! Thank you very much!!!
Glad to help
This video was a great help, fixed my Amana washer in about an hour. Wouldn't have take as long, but I had to go get some lithium grease.
Great video. My dtr's washing machine seems to have exactly the same problem. You made taking the gears apart seem easy. Lover you explanations, and now I'm not afraid to take it apart and fix it.
I've never repaired anything before thus video saved my butt
@@bethanyjones7404 glad to help.
Great video. One of the best recommendations from you has been the Harbor Freight 4 in 1 screwdriver! That thing is now my number one workhorse tool. Heck I’ve even started giving them away to my friends. At $1.49 (current price), you can’t beat it. Cheers my friend.
Yeah, I love it thing. Occasionally they go on sale for $.99.
at 2:30, my parts are PERFECT and fit together without any issue. however, they get stuck between the engaged and disengaged points and the very ends click louder than hell as they're unable to maintain position without being completely engaged. I'm assuming the actuator isn't keeping them all the way on or all the way off judging by the their 'in between' position when I turned it on its side and pulled the cover off. Does this sound right?
Perfection. Wish u would do it with the twist kind of washer it was a pain to put back together and I’m 9 months pregnant so me doing in is saying something!!
I went through the diagnostics, set it to rinse, pressed start, then it flickers but it goes blank after. What happened?
Thank you so much for this video! My washer started making this sound the other day and your video helped me fix it myself, saving me over $200! I got the part today and had it installed in about 20 minutes altogether. You're amazing and your instructions were so easy to follow.
What if you suspect the actuator motor is messed up how do you test it?
Hi! I did everything. Super easy, when I ran it, it’s still making that sound. Any other advice.
Hey man i have a very similar washer from amana, from what i can see during diagnostics, the agitator works perfectly fine, but in spin, the agitator spins really fast and does this horrible clanking while the inner basket does not keep up at all. And the inner basket seems low causeing the base of the agitator to be about and inch and a half above the bottom of the inner basket instead of flush with the bottom. any idea whats up with it?
My Whirlpool washer is about 2 years old and was making a loud grinding noise.
What I found was that the big pulley nut was very loose and shaving the nylon cover.
I tightened up the nut but I'm assuming it came loose again.
I'll clean the nut and thread and check all parts then add blue thread lock.
mine it is screw is loosing and what can i use to keep the screw?
Hi I don’t see the link 🔗
Excellent video, where can I get a Splutch Cam Kit for a 17kg Frigidaire Washer
Is it possible to have this noise from completely new whirpool machine? Literally 3rd wash started making this very loud grindy noise
Your videos are so helpful!.. I started my appliance business thanks to your inspiration!…
I hope you don’t mind me asking a question?… I’ve got a samsung dryer that runs for a very long time and doesn’t stop until i open the door. it drys great but doesn’t end cycle on it’s own.
Any suggestions what might be causing that to happen??. Maybe the main PCB or the moisture sensor?. I appreciate your input and time!. Thank you.
I’m glad you got into the appliance flipping business. It’s a good business.
I’m definitely not an expert on Samsung but I would recommend you join the Facebook group “Appliance Refurbish and Repair”
Every question you ever have can easily be answered by those guys.
@@WasherDryerMoney thank you so much for your reply!. I’m definitely going to join that facebook group . Thanks again!. You have a great weekend.
@@garrettrambo6650 the issue ios in the relay in the main control board try smacking the board over by the start relay and see if that fixes it
if so need a new one.
Great help
What if you dismantle the splutch and the teeth are fine, but there's yellow oil on the metal compartment above it?
Put it on the side and the bottom is open right in the middle is a big nut that spins loose all you gotta do is tighten it up and you're golden.
Hi, thanks for the video. I changed the splutch and it's still making the same noise. Any suggestions ? 😢
Did you make sure you coated all those moving plastic pieces in silicone grease? Did you reuse any of the old parts? Were you able to move (after everything was together) the arm on the actuator freely into spin and agitate?
When i took mine apart, the white thick gear piece had burned and tore off the end into a perfect and all the plastic was getting jammed up in it
What is that white piece called so I know what I’m shopping for?
Splutch drive kit
Where is the link
Thanks for the video. What do you call that parts?
The plastic gears that mesh together is called a Splutch. The arm that moves with the little motor to shift it into spin or agitate is called a actuator.
Thanks! Splutch it is ❤
Slightly OT, but the MayTag post I asked you a question on seems to have been left behind.
Do you know of any vid showing disassembly of a model SDE4606AYH or similar Maytag electric dryer? I've never had any trouble getting into any dryer, but, THIS one has a construction I've never seen before. Basically, the sides and rear are all one piece (except for the back panel behind the controls.) That forms a giant "C" as viewed from above, standing on the left side of the dryer. None of the other panels seem to pop apart -- everything that starts to separate seems to have a screw behind it. There are screws along the bottom of the "C", but I can't see that taking them out gets me into the dryer chassis. How the heck does this thing come apart?
I couldn’t find anything for that model.
My guess would be there is a thin push point.
You may have to push it with a putty knife.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
I got a WP Cabrio that is kind of loud, but not terribly loud on spin. Was going to do the bearing job, but once I tried to take out the tub I got a case of the f*@# its and walked away. Now I see that it could be just the clutch. It isn't Jet Engine Taking Off loud, just a bit louder than normal. I'll give it a whirl. The funny thing is the repair videos I see for the bearing job all show a model with a BLDC DD motor, but the one I have is belt driven like this. Thanks!
That kind of sounds like it is your bearings.
But maybe might be worth taking a look.
I just bought a new Amana washer from Lowe’s and it done this on first wash at end of cycle. I was like what the heck and started another load to which it Did Not do it again. But today 2 weeks later and several loads it just done it again. Both times at end of cycle. Do you think it’s the same thing on a new unit? Definitely same annoying grinding sound noise
Could be. Those washers are not built great by any means. If you just add a little white lithium, grease or silicone, lubricant spray and move that arm back-and-forth and make sure it easily moves. It may solve it.
A lot of the times it’s that arm not be able to move easily causing the problem to start with. But if you’re still under warranty, I would just swap it out.
Im pretty sure this is what i got going on, but when i was taking the shifter off, opposite the motor where the sensor is has something leaking onto it. What would cause this? How to stop ot?
Does it seem like oil? Sometimes those gear cases have a seal that starts to leak. There’s no easy fix to a gear case starting to leak oil. The seal is not replaceable.
There is a TH-cam video on a guy that pushed a little bit of grease around the shaft where the oil is leaking through and slowed it. I’m not sure if that was a permanent fix though.
We have replaced this, the actuator, the assembly under the plate inside tube, replaced belt. STILL HAVE A GRINDING NOISE
I just did the same thing and I'm having the same problem. What did yours end up being
So what is your actual problem? Going through the same issue.
Same here what should I do everything seems fine so I grease it and same sound at least tho it’s making a complete cycle
Well I bought another splutch kit / cam. Different places call it Different things, so I've found out. This time I sprayed the shit out of all the plastic pieces with silicone spray and once you get the cap slid into all four slots ( which I had to pry on the little slot a little bit with a flat screwdriver because it was a pain) then put the actuator motor back on and make sure you can move where the male goes into female all the way up and down or back and forth. If it's moves by using your hand you should be ok to put the pulleys back on.
Make sure you use all of the new plastic parts. The first time I reused the old cap piece because I could get it in the slots easier and that is what my problem was. It was just wearing out my other new pieces a lot quicker
Good video but, even with the volume all the way up your sound is very low.
That’s odd. I just played it on my phone and TV and the volume was fine. Might’ve just been a TH-cam glitch.
I changed this part and it’s still making the noise 😢
@@yumajosh01219 this may not work, but it’s a free thing to thy. recalibrating. It could be that the shifter arm is not fully moving into position and sometimes recalibrating. We’ll fix that. Good luck I hope it helps.
@ good to know thank you. I also replaced the shifter so this very well might work
Did all this and the agitate/wash still sounds like a dying goat. Spin cycle is fine
Getting that main nut off that has the loctite on it is such a pain. I can't budge it.😢
@@jwcmwaa yeah it’s a pain sometimes.
I don’t admiral part number