Im always amazed at how absolutely spotless and hospital clean vehicles are in these repairs videos! Man!, my old 94 probe gt and 2003 focus look like the Exon Valdiz oil spill happened under and around my engine..LOL these cars here look like they rolled outta the showroom.
Yes. It took a helper and was a little messy. Basically, the air is forced out via pedal action. While you are under the hood loosening and tightening the brake line tied to the master cylinder or the cylinder drain plug, another person is depressing and lifting the brake pedal. So loosen the nut, start depressing the pedal and before the pedal reaches bottom tighten the nut. It is imperative to not raise the pedal until the nuts are tightened. I did that until the pedal was no longer spongy - I think it took 4 times. I had already bled the air from the lines leaving the only air in the system at the MC. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
And a torx bit set, toothbrush, electrical connector cleaner, etc. If you are removing the brake lines from the ABS assembly - a Socket set and open ended wrenches. But I recommend a flare nut wrench set (for brake line removal) and bleed cable plugs/caps (for the res).
If you open the brake system you have to bleed all 4 tires starting with the farthest tire from the master cylinder and ending with the closest. I highly recommend capping the master cylinder and not draining it!
The 4 hex screws holding the EBCM to the ABS Pump were on the body frame side (driver side) The 3 bolts and 1 nut holding the assembly on from the body frame side. Pretty tight quarters, which is why I ended up removing the entire assembly.
Indicator lights only. Both the traction control and the brake indicators. The first video shows the indicator lights and I talk a little about the symptoms.
Im always amazed at how absolutely spotless and hospital clean vehicles are in these repairs videos! Man!, my old 94 probe gt and 2003 focus look like the Exon Valdiz oil spill happened under and around my engine..LOL these cars here look like they rolled outta the showroom.
I use engine cleaner before the grime starts.
Can you please tell me where did you send the part to be repaired because I'm having the same problem
Hi. I sent it to a company called Upfix. Best of luck!
How did you bleed the master cylinder? Was the spongy pedal resolved after that?
Yes. It took a helper and was a little messy. Basically, the air is forced out via pedal action. While you are under the hood loosening and tightening the brake line tied to the master cylinder or the cylinder drain plug, another person is depressing and lifting the brake pedal.
So loosen the nut, start depressing the pedal and before the pedal reaches bottom tighten the nut. It is imperative to not raise the pedal until the nuts are tightened. I did that until the pedal was no longer spongy - I think it took 4 times. I had already bled the air from the lines leaving the only air in the system at the MC.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
So the only tools you needed were the power bleeder and abs scanner?
And a torx bit set, toothbrush, electrical connector cleaner, etc. If you are removing the brake lines from the ABS assembly - a Socket set and open ended wrenches. But I recommend a flare nut wrench set (for brake line removal) and bleed cable plugs/caps (for the res).
How much time did the removal and install take you?
@@Thatguysauto do you remember what size are the torx screws?
How did you know that it was the EBCM that was bad, and not the ABS pump??
It was the trouble code. I have another video where it explains how I ended up assuming it was the EBCM.
Mr. Normal Guy's where can I buy a spare part for the 2010 exhaust ABS module? Thank you
If you buy a new ebcm it will require reprogramming. Which is why a DIYer attempts a repair vs replace.
Do you have the link for upfix? Thank you!
It’s upfix.com… good luck.
Did you do a bleed on both front tires to get the air out?
If you open the brake system you have to bleed all 4 tires starting with the farthest tire from the master cylinder and ending with the closest. I highly recommend capping the master cylinder and not draining it!
What size were those torx bolt for the control unit?
The 4 hex screws holding the EBCM to the ABS Pump were on the body frame side (driver side) The 3 bolts and 1 nut holding the assembly on from the body frame side. Pretty tight quarters, which is why I ended up removing the entire assembly.
@@Thatguysauto I was asking what size were the bolts
Pretty sure they where #5.
@@Thatguysauto #5??? Never heard of that size
My bad, I meant to write #15 as in T15. I’m watching the little one and so…
What were the symptoms before the repair?
Indicator lights only. Both the traction control and the brake indicators. The first video shows the indicator lights and I talk a little about the symptoms.
Any reprogramming required, after they replaced some of the electronics?
@@Anonymous-it5jw No reprogramming for my repair. That’s one of the reasons I used UpFix. I didn’t want to spend a ton of money on a reprogrammer.
Brake lines were cut???
Not cut. I did disconnect the lines from the abs assy to remove the assy from the car and separate the pump from the EBCM.
Moal kabeli sebab tidak ada uang koropsi
?
this video did not help at all. I need to know HOW TO REMOVE the ABS module. Perhaps the first video which I can't find.
Yes. The first video is the removal.
Solved - ABS light flashing B1343 code EBCM Removal (Ford Escape)
th-cam.com/video/9Xkt6tGtK7Q/w-d-xo.html