All My Favorite Tools: geni.us/VYIp51 DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I bought one of these when I first got my house and started stocking up on tools for around the house. Definitely glad I picked it up, but nice to watch videos like this to make sure I'm doing it right and getting the best use out of it. Thanks for the info and upload!
This excellent video will prevent me, a homeowner with basic handyman skills, from burning up some expensive appliance, or burning my house down or me laying on a stainless steel table in the Pinellas County medical officers lab. I cannot thank you enuf! Thx E.H.R.
If you don't already have one, and if you have the time, would you mind doing a tutorial video about digital multimeters? You seem to explain things really well and that would be awesome!
Not only does he have them, as others here point out, but there are literally hundreds of them on TH-cam, many of them are excellent and cover every kind of angle from every skill level, child to advanced.
I wouldn’t buy a multimeter or clamp meter that doesn’t test microfarads, because I want to be able to test the capacitor in my air conditioner. You can easily test it yourself after watching a YT video, then change it for $20, rather than paying a tech $400.
I just purchased a Klein Tools CL220 meter and didn't know it had the non-contact voltage tester integrated into the clamp jaw. I also didn't know the test leads could take the extra sleeves off so one can insert the leads into an outlet. (This was the one thing that really bothered me, and now I know I can take this off and make the leads like I am use to.) Thanks again for a great video!
I have the Ideal 61-747 400A AC/DC clamp meter and that's my everyday meter while in the field. The diode & capacitance functions are particularly useful for troubleshooting specific pieces of equipment.
@@brians1159 yes, you simply place the dial to the capacitance setting, this particular meter is auto ranging, so no need to worry about setting the range. If you need to test a capacitor but only have a basic meter with AC/DC volts, resistance and DC amps (typically up to 10A) a quick and dirty method is to use the resistance function, be sure to discharge the capacitor if necessary, then place the leads across the capacitor. A good capacitor will begin at a low resistance and gradually rise. A shorted capacitor will stay at a low resistance. An open capacitor will stay at a high or infinite resistance. The capacitor could still be bad meaning out of spec as far as the capacitance value, but if it passes the resistance test it's most likely good.
Sir: May I compliment you on your excellent video ! You speak at a constant level, speaking at a rate easy to understand, & you have good articulation. Your descriptions are absolutely correct, & for a home owner DIY person, it was a delight to see. I have a number of "amp clamps" (all high end") & a selection of DMMs , which I absolutely MUST have ( I am not working on home electrics except my own, but the Klein unit is very good, & I can't disagree that the Klein would satisfy the requirement for the DYI. Your video eclipses many that I have seen on the internet by a wide margin. Thank you.
I agree with you completely, my Kaiweets HT208D (bought as the Habotest brand) clamp meter is very useful as a DIY device, even including capacitor testing. For line splitter use I bought a short, flat "appliance" extension cord and split the wires near each end. This gives you options for measuring inrush current, etc. for refrigerators and airconditioners in tight places. One detail in the video- testing car battery voltages stopped vs running can have one wrinkle. If you have a "smart" alternator the voltage at idle may not immediately go up to 14 volts. I found this out accidently when I got a plug-in temp & voltage monitor and noticed that sometimes the voltage would stay at 12.2-12.4 (under load, engine running) before the alternator would cut in.
I recently bought the HT206D meter. I haven't used my conventional multimeter since. It does everything I need. The ability to read DC current is my most used feature. I like the fact that there are no current ranges via the probes, so no risk of blowing up the meter or device under test
FYI... You can buy a Triplett brand ET200 combination line splitter (for the clamp meter current tester loop) and GFCI outlet/receptacle tester ($20-ish). The outlet tester is just a basic 3 light tester.
Another model to consider is the Uni-T UT210E clamp meter. It includes all the usual voltage, current, resistance, clamp, NCV, as well as capacitance - and it sells for ~$55. I consider Uni-T to be a lower quality brand than Klein, but I've had the UT210E for a couple years now, and it has worked great.
I'm getting the UT204+ clamp meter. It's an ac dc amp meter and pack more features compared to ut2210e or 210D with almost the same price. I've seen videos of ut204+ being used by service engineers in the field.
You can make a splitter for 1/4 the price or less of the ready made one by getting a cord plug and socket and wiring a short piece of insulated wire from the the hot and neutral connections on the plug and socket,. Then just clamp your meter around the hot wire to test (with it connected between the power source and the load, of course).
Last week my 35 year old Fluke gave up. I was going to buy a tester like you suggested here, but I reconsidered and bought a Klein multimeter, mm700. Oh and I still have and use the other testers too.
DIYers can make their own splitter from a short pigtail with male and female AC connectors thus saving some money. I put a 10 turn coil of #14 wire in series with one lead so small currents can be measured by dividing by 10.
I use Uni-T 204+ Clamp meter for 4 years..Very satisfied use this brand. Cheap but have quality.. no have any problem/ faulty until now. still like new. If i want get very accuarate reading for electronic work, i use digital manual range multimeter... this more accuarate reading than clamp meter
Thank you for posting a great informative video, I suspected but now know that I do not need a separate clamp meter. One of our multi meters went bad so we replaced them and used your Amazon link and saved some money as well. Thank you!
In my 40yrs of electrical work. When I work in a national historical registry home, tracing knob and tube wiring that the customer cannot afford to rewire, that pre dates the historical structure. The clamp on is next to useless. ON an open circuit, the clamp on will most likely read full voltage on the feed and open neutral side. Its great with modern wiring. my Volt tick has saved my life a few times. Laying against a live AC duct, my body became evergized and my volt tick in my pocket sounded off, telling me that my body could discharge a shock. I have repaired many knob and tube systems with just a volt tick, and a pigtail lamp.
I absolute love my DC clamp meter. I do a lot of work with electronics, so DC functionality is great for me. It still isn’t my go to for everything else but for measuring current it is extremely handy to not have to break circuits, worry about burden voltages, blown fuses, or mistakes when measuring current.
Thanks for your video, it kicked me into buying one despite the price. I was looking for a amp meter for DIY car work and I don't like using multimeter in circuit to check the drain ammount, I pulled the trigger on a Klein CL390. Thank to your video I figured it would be worth the price when I become a homeowner, I can only hope Klein name brand will last a very long time!
Been using one for years. Still keep one in my tool bag now that I'm retired, only mine is a EXTECH EX623. That model probably been upgraded by now. Just went through the house to check all the outlets, found many needing the terminals tightened. All good now.
I'd add one to the list of must-haves... a circuit tracer. Plug the remote into a receptacle or lamp socket and use the tracer to identify the breaker. BTW... I agree on the usefulness of a clamp meter, but would recommend the CL390 over the CL120. For just a bit more (~$20), you get TRMS and several of the missing functions you mention.
I also recommend the CL390 or one of the higher end Klein meters because those can measure 1. DC Amps (for automotive) 2. AC frequency, 3. capacitance (for HVAC/soft-starters), 4. current on non-60Hz AC (speakers and audio systems). An extra $20 well spent.
Thanks for the video. My Klein didn't come with a manual. I didn't realize it had the idiot stick built into the tip of the clamp. Also helped that you explained the clamp feature. I assumed that was how it worked, but the demo helped too.
You can push bad battery to the 12,7 V area, but it will drop to about 10 V when small load is applied = you have one dead cell. As for alternator "charging", increase the load and observe the drops - then you can judge if it's OK/NOK.
I took a job in a manufacturing lab in 2019 where we had three Klein multimeters. After two years all of them were broken. They wouldn't go to the correct mode, or they just gave incredibly inaccurate readings, especially if equipment was operating near them. When I asked if someone was abusing them, I was told "no they just break a lot, that's why we have three of them." I also needed to take them completely apart to change the batteries. For DIYers who might use them 3-4 times a year, yes, they're great meters. But if you're a Pro, spend the money for a serious meter. There are plenty of Fluke models under $300 made for technicians.
I ordered a Fluke AC/DC Clamp meter for $150 and yesterday found a Fluke AC clamp meter for $70 in a pawn shop so I grabbed it. This will really help me watch my solar system and inverter closer. I fried two alternators in a row so now I’ve turned off the DC-DC Victron charger until I can measure how many amps I’m drawing off the alternator(Think I’ll try adding a second alternator).
Always something new to learn. When I retired I had to leave my Flukes (87 & T-600) as my govt. employer owned them. I used an old Amprobe at home. I recently upgraded to a Klein CL 700 and hadn't noticed the NCV feature yet. Cool! I still will use my NCV/IR and the monkey eyes because they are so portable. Your videos are interesting and useful.
Multimeter is a great tool, but a good voltage tester is super useful too. They seem to get lots of hate but are really good a diagnosing wiring problems in a home or commercial space.
I bought one of those Klein clamp meters recently and like it, although I do like having a DMM also and use both. I have the Klein in my electrical tool bucket right now.
Great video. Thank you for posting. I could also hear you LOUD & Clear through my headphones, without even having them on, and excellent through the P.C. Speakers too ! Usually I am partial to Klein Tools but when you showed the "IDEAL" one, that seemed ideal for me, though I can't do all this work anymore I still love to have all the tools. Videos like this are invaluable and you're doing a great service, sharing your knowledge with people.
DMM's are for bench testing. I have this very same meter. I am an electrical contractor and fully endorse this video. By the way, the best feature of the clamp ammeter is you can hang the damn thing and read it while using!
I would recommend a Clamp meter with DC current test. This would give you the very important feature for checking drain current on a cars electrical system without having to disconnect cables. Thank you for your video.
This is awesome. I always though these clamp meters were only for measuring Amps. I just received my first clamp meter, and it does everything I need and more.
These meters are great!! I changed out a panel last year and a few days after I was contacted and told the kitchen circuit kept tripping. I was thinking that perhaps I put in a 15 instead of a 20, but once I got there I did have the correct breaker. So i turned on their appliances in the kitchen and used my clamp and found out they were getting up near 23 amps. They told me that the old panel never tripped!! I told them, i just thank God we changed it! It should've tripped a long time ago. Thanks for the great video, may Jesus greatly bless you!
Cheap current clamps are great if you're not too bothered about accuracy. This one is 2% of reading plus 10 counts. So 400 amps could be anywhere between 382A and 418A. That's not including where the wire sits in the clamp, which also has a huge bearing on the measurement.
The number if times i needed three hands when using my multimeter.... one for each wire, and a third to look at the display.... clamping it to the car hood (3:19) was enough to convince me.
My favorite Klein tool. The DC clamp ammeter makes it as useful under the hood as in the house electrical. My voltage tickler is still more convenient to check quickly for hot wires.
Pretty sure clamp meters don't work for DC because they rely on the changing field of AC. This unit doesn't measure DC amps and therefore isn't ideal for automotive applications.
Suggest considering a Kaiweets HT206D clamp meter as a lower cost alternative with temperature, capacitance and freq measurement functuons. True RMS meter.
You just taught a 71 y.o. electrician new functions that I never knew existed. eg the ncv function. and dc. clamp and adjusting to the earths magnetic field. just blows my mind how far we have come since the 60s.
Hi, when I bought my house: I discoverd that some electric lines are very strange connections: one room outlet in the basement connected with an outlet in second floor kitchen. other outlet in same room, connected with a different outlet in other room in the second floor. if any way i can trace the wire without turning off the breaker? forgot to mention that there are 2 junctions boxes near to the room in the basement. any tools I can use to trace and disconnect 2nd floor completely and put the outlet in the room in the basement togeter? Thank you so much. I really appreciate it.
So are the probes the only way to get a voltage measurement? I was using a line splitter and got a basically logical number for the amerage but the voltage showed .09 (!?) - and it would jump around depending on exactly where I held the clamp meter. One of the things I hoped to do with my clamp meter was to test the voltage drop on a pump that I have on a 100 foot extension cord
Great video as always, But a quick clarification about something that confused me for a long time, a residential panel is Single Phase, technically "split phase", because the single phase is spilt into 2 legs. Power plants produce 3 phase power and your house is feed by ONE of those phases. It feeds a transformer that has two 120V outputs and a center tap, the Neutral. [a center tap gives half power] Your panel is fed with 2 120v LEGS of a Single PHASE, and the center tap, N. Any circuit between the 2 legs has 240v potential, any circuit between one leg and the N has 120v potential. Apparently there were some very early systems that were 2 phase, but once things were standardized, we only have Single Phase and Three Phase. Three Phase gets even more complex because there are various ways to utilize the multiple phases, but generally it available only to industrial or large commercial buildings, anywhere large electric motors are used. Most electric motors above 3hp are 3 phase. A single phase motor has one "push" per cycle to rotate it, while a 3 phase motor has 3 evenly spaced "pushes" per cycle.. so much more powerful and efficient.
Question: in automotive electrical it's a big no-no to front probe a connector with those basic multimeter leads bc you can stretch open the female receptacles so that they no longer make good/solid contact when the male end of the corresponding connector is reinserted. Is this not true of the outlets in your home?
There are a ton of options and here are a few of the different meters and packages from Klein Tools www.kleintools.com/catalog/test-measurement/clamp-meters
Any of the Klein Clamp on meters are fine EXCEPT the one that he is using in this video as it is not a True-RMS meter. As such it will not give correct readings for certain things like LED fixtures or switched power supplies.
Thanks. I bought a clamp meter not long ago to use it as a clamp meter. Now I saw you using the non-contact function. I checked my Brymen BM037 and I discovered it also has EF-Detection functions. Good to know.
Dang... if only we'd had a clamp-on ammeter back in the mid '80s! My friends and I used to go through hours and hours of troubleshooting whenever we installed a car alarm or sound system in our cars back then. All we had was the trusty old multi-meter. Which was fine for volts, ohms, and amps, but it wasn't much help at finding current leaks. I still have and use the same $125 multi-meter from 1985, too. But once you've learned how to use a clamp-on ammeter correctly, chasing down current issues becomes ridiculously easy! I rarely need the multi-meter anymore.
Year old clip but question working on say a computer or xbox,play Station or tablet I would use a muilp meter? Isn't a muilp material for Electronics ? And a clamp meter is for larger power items the fuse on a clamp meter is 600 to 1000 but a muilp meter has to be super low before you pop it
This would be a better meter to use for measuring alternating current as it has a LOZ function that is a must for measuring voltage as it puts a load on the circuit to see if it actually measuring the correct voltage or ghost voltage.Klein Tools CL800 I actually prefer a Fluke meter that has a LOZ function. I have seen a lot of Electrician get fooled by this as a Appliance Technician.Some of them don't even know what a LOZ terminology is.
Hi. I have a question. I live in a semi detached house. All our electrics are new… We fell out with the neighbors next door. We went on holiday & when we came back, they had built a fence 2inches over our boundary. Ever since this happened. We have had lights flicker? Interruptions on tv, mobile phones taking hours to charge up. And so on. We have had our electrics checked & everything seems fine. As soon as an electrician has been out. Things start happening again. Now I swear that the neighbors have something to do with this? By maybe latching on to our electricity through our conjoining walls? I have done my own problem solving by taking mobile phones, DVD player, set-top box to my Works & friends & family & all seem to work perfectly! Would this device let me know if our neighbor is messing with our electricity ⚡️? Take for example. I bought a brand new iPhone. Tried new leads & tried different chargers and so on. But the same thing keeps happening?? I’m talking about if iPhone had a percentage of say 80% charge. I turn it off, plug charger in. Check in 30mins & it’s only reached 5 or 6% more. It’s like something or someone is juice jacking? Also I have used a 20w charger & still the same thing is happening? Racked my head about all of this. And I know sumat just don’t add up? Neighbors have started sniggering aswel. Last year we actually had another electrician out to again check electricity. I was mowing the lawn and everything was fine. The electrician left. Then about 5mins later the lawn mower cut out? Then came back on. Same thing with electric kettle. Switched it on & even before started to boil up, it turned off. I walked away. Came back tried again and everything fine? Any answers to my question or a device I could get would be much appreciated. It’s getting the evidence which is so hard . Thank you 🙏
With a Tamper Resistant receptacle, you can't insert voltmeter probes. Does the clamp meter splitter provide test points? I keep a cheater ground plug for that use.
I think the frequency check feature would be useful for adjusting your (emergency power) generator for power outages, to set the generator's frequency to 60 Hz.
Have you ever had to replace a complete window where you replace the outside framing it. Do you ever need to have a way to test from a plug or switch to the according circuit breaker.
I have always wondered how a line splitter multiplies the amps? If it just coils both the hot and neutral around in a loop ten times each then they would still just cancel each others emf out and you would still get no reading? I would like to see someone taking one apart.
One electrical code that no handiman talks about is arch fault. It is the most important residential code, preventing fires for the past 23 years. It's in article 210.12 in the NEC code book.
I have a combination non-contact voltage tester with a receptacle+gfci tester. It is fantastic for basic jobs. You can check for voltage, confirm polarity, grounding and test gfci functionality. Though for trickier troubleshooting issues, I still bring out the multimeter.
I just recently discovered clamp meters. It's important to note that while almost all can do AC current & voltage as well as DC voltage that only some of them can do DC current. So if you need DC current clamp capability make sure you get a meter that has that.
The CL120 might not do the best job. If you step up to even the next level up (CL220) it is a "TRMS" meter which is more ideal in some applications where you need a more accurate measurement.
I had before now thought the clamp meter was optimized for the current side of measurement and a rather useful tool for those in the "HVAC" line of work only... I was so wrong... Nice content 👍
You say that you used this meter to measure the load for a generator, but how did you measure the in-rush or peak turn on amperage of the devices you were going to run with the generator?
I picked up a micronta analog clamp meter with a break out adapter. It has a 1x and 10x slot. Super cool and very useful. The other thing to look for is a DC amps clamp meter. Those are really useful for diagnosing DC systems in vehicles. I work with a lot of people transport systems that have heavy charging systems and heavy loads, and the DC amp clamp meters are indispensable.
For home use, you can buy a watt plug in meter instead of splitters. You plug the meter in outlet and then your device into it. It’ll tell you current and power consumption and a bunch or other metrics.
Thanks for the great episode. Now I know what that bump on the end of my clamp multimeters is for! I have a Fluke digital multimeter with an AC Ammeter clamp accessory, a Fluke clamp ammeter/multimeter, and a Chinese brand clamp ammeter/multimeter. For DIY work both the mid-priced (around $200?) Fluke and the $65 Chinese brand clamp ammeters work extremely well, and are flexible enough to do almost anything around the house. One of the MAIN differences that people should look for is whether the clamp meter will read current load (amps) in both AC and DC. Many standard DIY units will only read AC, but if you're a DIY person working on both standard 120/240 volt AC and any low-voltage DC systems like a doorbell, sprinkler controls, or maybe even fancy zoned-heating ducting controls in a house, or on just about any 6/12/24/48 volt DC vehicle then being able to read DC amps is EXTREMELY useful as a troubleshooting tool. For electronics and smaller scale DC volts and continuity testing my regular digital multimeter is the king, but for house or vehicle the AC/DC clamp multimeters are a far better ticket to success.
I really appreciate your video. You do not push sell 'click and subscribe' your channel. Why not? Because you are focusing your teaching instead of pleading for unrelated 'like'. :D For that, I subscribed and liked your video. Also, the real reason for my following is because actually bought CL800 during the pandemic without much knowledge other than DC voltage testing. :D Now I have learned more from you.
Great video, I'm sold. We're about to have an 18kw solar array installed with 10kwh battery, and I'm concerned if it will handle the startup load of our well pump (3 wire). Is this a tool i could use to see that?
I think you would need a clamp meter that can measure millisecond-duration Inrush Current (not just Min-Max functions). The value of which, you would need for sizing your battery and inverter. I'm not sure which Klein or Ideal has it. As you may already know, start up current of AC motors can range from 3x to 6x the normal running current.
@@ramschannelreviews - Thanks for that, and indeed I am aware of the startup demand. Actually Enphase, the kit I'm going with, has recently introduced a new generation battery they claim has that surge capability built in. Now whether a 10kwh battery can then run a well pump (230' deep) for any useful amount of time is another question which I think we'll soon find out the answer to.
Knowing how various tools measure or detect can be very helpful, even improving safety. Voltage is analogous to pressure, amperage is akin to volume. Direct contact meters can measure the "pressure drop" between a hot and neutral or ground, while NCV sticks rely on inductive fields around conductors, which may not always work as anticipated. A surprising result shows when a stick detector is run along a cord; power is on, a complete circuit is operating, yet the stick will usually only alert along the "hot" side of the wires. Even in the breaker panel, the large neutral will usually not trigger the stick detector, though all the 120 V. current is carried back to the transformer along it. Why? The analogy that fits is the hot leads are like the water pipes coming in to a place, under pressure, while the neutral and grounds are akin to the drains, where there is very little pressure. You might get away with handling a neutral in a live circuit, because its resistance is much lower than your body; if you disconnect it, though, suddenly current will seek ground through you, going to either the neutral in your other hand, grounded surface in contact with you, etc. This is why modern tools have mandatory ground wires; old metal ones could have a neutral wear, and contact with the shell could make you the path of lower resistance. An uncle had that occur, and he survived by shoving the drill into the dirt. Not an ideal option.
Some multimeters (no clamp) have a voltage tester built in. I have a Craftsman meter that has a voltage tester built in. The current clamp is a nice feature though I will admit.
If this is a dumb question forgive me. Let's say I want to change out an outlet in a room down the line from a GFCI outlet. Is it safe to work on the outlet downstream if I trip the GFCI, or is it still required that I turn off the breaker in the main box?
I had the same question but after reading so many stories about how some houses are wired, I would suggest to find the breaker and just turn it off. I would do one more test with a MM to ensure no voltage and you are good to go. Might want to also lock the breaker box to avoid someone flipping it back. Just my 2 cents. Try at your own risk or hire an electrician if still not comfortable.
Assuming everything is wired correctly then it is safe. But since there is a chance that the outlet is not actually down of the GFCI, there is that risk.
If you aren't the only person in the premises at the time you might even consider a method of locking the breaker off to ensure someone doesn't come along and turn it on while you are working.
Very informative video but I must admit that one of the things that surprised me the most out of this video is that I learn that the testing probes have a little cap I've always been using them with the caps on and wondering why is the metal contact part so short! Im such a noob
o well i have another brand of clamp multi meter but i like the tip testing on that one and ability to hold a probe also have that klein 3 piece kit and neither meter does capacitance which i might need for my ac unit capacitor
This seems like good advice, until you realize a lot of clamp meters don't have the non-contact feature in them, and even if they do, the wand is tiny and can fit in a pocket, while the meter is large and not something you want to carry around. I'll always say to have a hot stick, they're small, light, cheap, and do the important job of saying if something is hot or not.
@@Scott-st2yiBeen an electrician for over 30 years and my non contact tester is always in my pocket. Test every cable with it and it's never let me down. Buy a quality one, worth every penny.
I use non contact daily! Keep it clipped to my sheet collar! They are Ling little heffers at times. If in doubt just trip the circuit. Usually run into that issue in commercial where they shared neutrals across circuits.
I use a non contact alot but the meter is the surefire way to tell if something dead or not cause feedback from other circuits can cause the non contact tester to go off sometimes
All My Favorite Tools: geni.us/VYIp51
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I bought one of these when I first got my house and started stocking up on tools for around the house. Definitely glad I picked it up, but nice to watch videos like this to make sure I'm doing it right and getting the best use out of it. Thanks for the info and upload!
This excellent video will prevent me, a homeowner with basic handyman skills, from burning up some expensive appliance, or burning my house down or me laying on a stainless steel table in the Pinellas County medical officers lab. I cannot thank you enuf! Thx E.H.R.
If you don't already have one, and if you have the time, would you mind doing a tutorial video about digital multimeters? You seem to explain things really well and that would be awesome!
Agree!
He has one already
He has a couple.
Not only does he have them, as others here point out, but there are literally hundreds of them on TH-cam, many of them are excellent and cover every kind of angle from every skill level, child to advanced.
I wouldn’t buy a multimeter or clamp meter that doesn’t test microfarads, because I want to be able to test the capacitor in my air conditioner. You can easily test it yourself after watching a YT video, then change it for $20, rather than paying a tech $400.
I bought my first clamp meter, a Sperry Snap 6, almost 50 years ago and I still use it regularly!
You should trash it and buy fluke most pros only trust fluke only brand of meters I'll buy for home or the field
@@dustinhogue6057 Don't ‘trash’ the Man’s comment! 😯🙄😂
I am a 40 year HVAC Fridge Tech. I own expensive Fluke and Fieldpiece but the Klien CL800 is my daily meter for years with great results.
I just purchased a Klein Tools CL220 meter and didn't know it had the non-contact voltage tester integrated into the clamp jaw. I also didn't know the test leads could take the extra sleeves off so one can insert the leads into an outlet. (This was the one thing that really bothered me, and now I know I can take this off and make the leads like I am use to.) Thanks again for a great video!
I learned the same things in this video 😂
I have the Ideal 61-747 400A AC/DC clamp meter and that's my everyday meter while in the field. The diode & capacitance functions are particularly useful for troubleshooting specific pieces of equipment.
Hi I have a question Can you test Central AC capacitors with it?
@@brians1159 yes, you simply place the dial to the capacitance setting, this particular meter is auto ranging, so no need to worry about setting the range. If you need to test a capacitor but only have a basic meter with AC/DC volts, resistance and DC amps (typically up to 10A) a quick and dirty method is to use the resistance function, be sure to discharge the capacitor if necessary, then place the leads across the capacitor. A good capacitor will begin at a low resistance and gradually rise. A shorted capacitor will stay at a low resistance. An open capacitor will stay at a high or infinite resistance. The capacitor could still be bad meaning out of spec as far as the capacitance value, but if it passes the resistance test it's most likely good.
Sir: May I compliment you on your excellent video ! You speak at a constant level, speaking at a rate easy to understand, & you have good articulation. Your descriptions are absolutely correct, & for a home owner DIY person, it was a delight to see. I have a number of "amp clamps" (all high end") & a selection of DMMs , which I absolutely MUST have ( I am not working on home electrics except my own, but the Klein unit is very good, & I can't disagree that the Klein would satisfy the requirement for the DYI.
Your video eclipses many that I have seen on the internet by a wide margin. Thank you.
I agree with you completely, my Kaiweets HT208D (bought as the Habotest brand) clamp meter is very useful as a DIY device, even including capacitor testing. For line splitter use I bought a short, flat "appliance" extension cord and split the wires near each end. This gives you options for measuring inrush current, etc. for refrigerators and airconditioners in tight places. One detail in the video- testing car battery voltages stopped vs running can have one wrinkle. If you have a "smart" alternator the voltage at idle may not immediately go up to 14 volts. I found this out accidently when I got a plug-in temp & voltage monitor and noticed that sometimes the voltage would stay at 12.2-12.4 (under load, engine running) before the alternator would cut in.
I recently bought the HT206D meter. I haven't used my conventional multimeter since. It does everything I need. The ability to read DC current is my most used feature. I like the fact that there are no current ranges via the probes, so no risk of blowing up the meter or device under test
FYI... You can buy a Triplett brand ET200 combination line splitter (for the clamp meter current tester loop) and GFCI outlet/receptacle tester ($20-ish). The outlet tester is just a basic 3 light tester.
Another model to consider is the Uni-T UT210E clamp meter. It includes all the usual voltage, current, resistance, clamp, NCV, as well as capacitance - and it sells for ~$55. I consider Uni-T to be a lower quality brand than Klein, but I've had the UT210E for a couple years now, and it has worked great.
It can amp check ac and dc which a lot of meters dont do. Most of them only do ac amps.
I have the same tool. DC amps is a must for me. I do a lot of car work.
Uni-T is the top brand in China; better quality than Klein at the same price range.
@@billrimmer5596oh! They have those?! Nice! I need one!
I'm getting the UT204+ clamp meter. It's an ac dc amp meter and pack more features compared to ut2210e or 210D with almost the same price. I've seen videos of ut204+ being used by service engineers in the field.
You can make a splitter for 1/4 the price or less of the ready made one by getting a cord plug and socket and wiring a short piece of insulated wire from the the hot and neutral connections on the plug and socket,. Then just clamp your meter around the hot wire to test (with it connected between the power source and the load, of course).
Last week my 35 year old Fluke gave up. I was going to buy a tester like you suggested here, but I reconsidered and bought a Klein multimeter, mm700. Oh and I still have and use the other testers too.
DIYers can make their own splitter from a short pigtail with male and female AC connectors thus saving some money. I put a 10 turn coil of #14 wire in series with one lead so small currents can be measured by dividing by 10.
I use Uni-T 204+ Clamp meter for 4 years..Very satisfied use this brand. Cheap but have quality.. no have any problem/ faulty until now. still like new. If i want get very accuarate reading for electronic work, i use digital manual range multimeter... this more accuarate reading than clamp meter
Thank you for posting a great informative video, I suspected but now know that I do not need a separate clamp meter. One of our multi meters went bad so we replaced them and used your Amazon link and saved some money as well. Thank you!
In my 40yrs of electrical work. When I work in a national historical registry home, tracing knob and tube wiring that the customer cannot afford to rewire, that pre dates the historical structure. The clamp on is next to useless. ON an open circuit, the clamp on will most likely read full voltage on the feed and open neutral side. Its great with modern wiring. my Volt tick has saved my life a few times. Laying against a live AC duct, my body became evergized and my volt tick in my pocket sounded off, telling me that my body could discharge a shock. I have repaired many knob and tube systems with just a volt tick, and a pigtail lamp.
I absolute love my DC clamp meter. I do a lot of work with electronics, so DC functionality is great for me. It still isn’t my go to for everything else but for measuring current it is extremely handy to not have to break circuits, worry about burden voltages, blown fuses, or mistakes when measuring current.
Yes. Something without DC current is useless.
Thanks for your video, it kicked me into buying one despite the price. I was looking for a amp meter for DIY car work and I don't like using multimeter in circuit to check the drain ammount, I pulled the trigger on a Klein CL390. Thank to your video I figured it would be worth the price when I become a homeowner, I can only hope Klein name brand will last a very long time!
Been using one for years. Still keep one in my tool bag now that I'm retired, only mine is a EXTECH EX623. That model probably been upgraded by now. Just went through the house to check all the outlets, found many needing the terminals tightened. All good now.
I'd add one to the list of must-haves... a circuit tracer. Plug the remote into a receptacle or lamp socket and use the tracer to identify the breaker.
BTW... I agree on the usefulness of a clamp meter, but would recommend the CL390 over the CL120. For just a bit more (~$20), you get TRMS and several of the missing functions you mention.
That can be pretty darn handy. Thanks for the feedback!
An AC / DC clamp meter, very useful indeed! Thanks for the suggestion.
I also recommend the CL390 or one of the higher end Klein meters because those can measure 1. DC Amps (for automotive) 2. AC frequency, 3. capacitance (for HVAC/soft-starters), 4. current on non-60Hz AC (speakers and audio systems). An extra $20 well spent.
Does it exist for UK outlets? I can't find it for UK outlets
Thanks for the video. My Klein didn't come with a manual. I didn't realize it had the idiot stick built into the tip of the clamp. Also helped that you explained the clamp feature. I assumed that was how it worked, but the demo helped too.
You can push bad battery to the 12,7 V area, but it will drop to about 10 V when small load is applied = you have one dead cell. As for alternator "charging", increase the load and observe the drops - then you can judge if it's OK/NOK.
I took a job in a manufacturing lab in 2019 where we had three Klein multimeters. After two years all of them were broken. They wouldn't go to the correct mode, or they just gave incredibly inaccurate readings, especially if equipment was operating near them. When I asked if someone was abusing them, I was told "no they just break a lot, that's why we have three of them." I also needed to take them completely apart to change the batteries.
For DIYers who might use them 3-4 times a year, yes, they're great meters. But if you're a Pro, spend the money for a serious meter. There are plenty of Fluke models under $300 made for technicians.
I ordered a Fluke AC/DC Clamp meter for $150 and yesterday found a Fluke AC clamp meter for $70 in a pawn shop so I grabbed it. This will really help me watch my solar system and inverter closer. I fried two alternators in a row so now I’ve turned off the DC-DC Victron charger until I can measure how many amps I’m drawing off the alternator(Think I’ll try adding a second alternator).
For professional uses, I only recommend Fluke. And I even bought one by myself in my home.
Fluke is the best!
Picked up the Klein CL120 based on your review. Couldn't be happier. Thanks for sharing your insights!👌
You bet!
Always something new to learn. When I retired I had to leave my Flukes (87 & T-600) as my govt. employer owned them. I used an old Amprobe at home. I recently upgraded to a Klein CL 700 and hadn't noticed the NCV feature yet. Cool! I still will use my NCV/IR and the monkey eyes because they are so portable. Your videos are interesting and useful.
Multimeter is a great tool, but a good voltage tester is super useful too. They seem to get lots of hate but are really good a diagnosing wiring problems in a home or commercial space.
A glowing 2W lamp is a lot harder to argue with than a wiggling meter or a flickering LED that may or may not be reacting to RF.
I bought one of those Klein clamp meters recently and like it, although I do like having a DMM also and use both. I have the Klein in my electrical tool bucket right now.
Great video. Thank you for posting. I could also hear you LOUD & Clear through my headphones, without even having them on, and excellent through the P.C. Speakers too ! Usually I am partial to Klein Tools but when you showed the "IDEAL" one, that seemed ideal for me, though I can't do all this work anymore I still love to have all the tools. Videos like this are invaluable and you're doing a great service, sharing your knowledge with people.
Michael, you're a scream! The “IDEAL” one, that seemed ideal for me…😆😂
@@georgedavall9449 I agree, I scream every time I look in a mirror.
@@michaeljavert4635 I try not to look in a mirror; downright scary! 😯 😂✌
DMM's are for bench testing.
I have this very same meter. I am an electrical contractor and fully endorse this video.
By the way, the best feature of the clamp ammeter is you can hang the damn thing and read it while using!
I just used my DMM today in my car, tracing down an electronics issue.
I would recommend a Clamp meter with DC current test. This would give you the very important feature for checking drain current on a cars electrical system without having to disconnect cables. Thank you for your video.
I don't have DC just ac so what i do ? I checked battery for my car with AC it said 0.004 its good or not?
This is awesome. I always though these clamp meters were only for measuring Amps. I just received my first clamp meter, and it does everything I need and more.
These meters are great!! I changed out a panel last year and a few days after I was contacted and told the kitchen circuit kept tripping. I was thinking that perhaps I put in a 15 instead of a 20, but once I got there I did have the correct breaker. So i turned on their appliances in the kitchen and used my clamp and found out they were getting up near 23 amps. They told me that the old panel never tripped!! I told them, i just thank God we changed it! It should've tripped a long time ago.
Thanks for the great video, may Jesus greatly bless you!
Dang, 23 Amps is a healthy load. Were they running some type of hot plate?
It was a microwave and toaster and coffee machine in the kitchen and they were using it in different combinations.
Cheap current clamps are great if you're not too bothered about accuracy. This one is 2% of reading plus 10 counts. So 400 amps could be anywhere between 382A and 418A. That's not including where the wire sits in the clamp, which also has a huge bearing on the measurement.
The number if times i needed three hands when using my multimeter.... one for each wire, and a third to look at the display.... clamping it to the car hood (3:19) was enough to convince me.
My favorite Klein tool. The DC clamp ammeter makes it as useful under the hood as in the house electrical.
My voltage tickler is still more convenient to check quickly for hot wires.
Pretty sure clamp meters don't work for DC because they rely on the changing field of AC. This unit doesn't measure DC amps and therefore isn't ideal for automotive applications.
Excellent video! I learned something...the clamp being used as a non-contact tester! Thanks!
You bet!
Suggest considering a Kaiweets HT206D clamp meter as a lower cost alternative with temperature, capacitance and freq measurement functuons. True RMS meter.
🙋♂️ THANKS SCOTT, I JUST REPLACED MY Broken multi meter with this tool about a week ago😁NOW I AM LEARNING HOW TO USE IT 🤗👍💚💚💚
Great minds think alike 😁
@@EverydayHomeRepairs 🤗👍
You just taught a 71 y.o. electrician new functions that I never knew existed. eg the ncv function. and dc. clamp and adjusting to the earths magnetic field. just blows my mind how far we have come since the 60s.
Very cool. I never knew that my amp clamp had a non-contact voltage tester. Thanks!
Thanks, good to know. Functional consolidation is always happening and it's nice to pack fewer tools.
Will clap meter check high voltage such as going into a external box feeding 240v from 100 am9 service
Hi, when I bought my house: I discoverd that some electric lines are very strange connections: one room outlet in the basement connected with an outlet in second floor kitchen. other outlet in same room, connected with a different outlet in other room in the second floor. if any way i can trace the wire without turning off the breaker? forgot to mention that there are 2 junctions boxes near to the room in the basement. any tools I can use to trace and disconnect 2nd floor completely and put the outlet in the room in the basement togeter? Thank you so much. I really appreciate it.
So are the probes the only way to get a voltage measurement? I was using a line splitter and got a basically logical number for the amerage but the voltage showed .09 (!?) - and it would jump around depending on exactly where I held the clamp meter.
One of the things I hoped to do with my clamp meter was to test the voltage drop on a pump that I have on a 100 foot extension cord
Nice video. If you monkey with RV’s, solar, trailer/automotive, get the model a couple steps up that does AC and DC amps.
I recently purchased the Fluke T6 1000. Definitely worth the money but a NCV tester at the tip would've been a nice feature. Thank you for the video!
Man, I used Fluke for years and they are definitely the top brand on the market. Just hard to justify the cost of Fluke as a homeowner / DIYer.
Great video as always, But a quick clarification about something that confused me for a long time, a residential panel is Single Phase, technically "split phase", because the single phase is spilt into 2 legs. Power plants produce 3 phase power and your house is feed by ONE of those phases. It feeds a transformer that has two 120V outputs and a center tap, the Neutral. [a center tap gives half power] Your panel is fed with 2 120v LEGS of a Single PHASE, and the center tap, N. Any circuit between the 2 legs has 240v potential, any circuit between one leg and the N has 120v potential.
Apparently there were some very early systems that were 2 phase, but once things were standardized, we only have Single Phase and Three Phase. Three Phase gets even more complex because there are various ways to utilize the multiple phases, but generally it available only to industrial or large commercial buildings, anywhere large electric motors are used. Most electric motors above 3hp are 3 phase. A single phase motor has one "push" per cycle to rotate it, while a 3 phase motor has 3 evenly spaced "pushes" per cycle.. so much more powerful and efficient.
Question: in automotive electrical it's a big no-no to front probe a connector with those basic multimeter leads bc you can stretch open the female receptacles so that they no longer make good/solid contact when the male end of the corresponding connector is reinserted. Is this not true of the outlets in your home?
Thanks again Scotty. 👍 Now I need to compare which Klein Clamp Meter is right for me.
There are a ton of options and here are a few of the different meters and packages from Klein Tools www.kleintools.com/catalog/test-measurement/clamp-meters
Any of the Klein Clamp on meters are fine EXCEPT the one that he is using in this video as it is not a True-RMS meter.
As such it will not give correct readings for certain things like LED fixtures or switched power supplies.
Thanks. I bought a clamp meter not long ago to use it as a clamp meter. Now I saw you using the non-contact function. I checked my Brymen BM037 and I discovered it also has EF-Detection functions. Good to know.
Dang... if only we'd had a clamp-on ammeter back in the mid '80s! My friends and I used to go through hours and hours of troubleshooting whenever we installed a car alarm or sound system in our cars back then. All we had was the trusty old multi-meter. Which was fine for volts, ohms, and amps, but it wasn't much help at finding current leaks. I still have and use the same $125 multi-meter from 1985, too. But once you've learned how to use a clamp-on ammeter correctly, chasing down current issues becomes ridiculously easy! I rarely need the multi-meter anymore.
Year old clip but question working on say a computer or xbox,play Station or tablet I would use a muilp meter? Isn't a muilp material for Electronics ? And a clamp meter is for larger power items the fuse on a clamp meter is 600 to 1000 but a muilp meter has to be super low before you pop it
I have 2 outside covered plugs outside in my yard. None of my CFCI have popped. How do I find out which GFCI is defective?
It would be nice to directly link the device you are showing in the video along with the amazon store.
This would be a better meter to use for measuring alternating current as it has a LOZ function that is a must for measuring voltage as it puts a load on the circuit to see if it actually measuring the correct voltage or ghost voltage.Klein Tools CL800 I actually prefer a Fluke meter that has a LOZ function. I have seen a lot of Electrician get fooled by this as a Appliance Technician.Some of them don't even know what a LOZ terminology is.
Hi. I have a question. I live in a semi detached house. All our electrics are new… We fell out with the neighbors next door. We went on holiday & when we came back, they had built a fence 2inches over our boundary.
Ever since this happened. We have had lights flicker? Interruptions on tv, mobile phones taking hours to charge up. And so on.
We have had our electrics checked & everything seems fine.
As soon as an electrician has been out. Things start happening again.
Now I swear that the neighbors have something to do with this? By maybe latching on to our electricity through our conjoining walls?
I have done my own problem solving by taking mobile phones, DVD player, set-top box to my Works & friends & family & all seem to work perfectly!
Would this device let me know if our neighbor is messing with our electricity ⚡️?
Take for example. I bought a brand new iPhone.
Tried new leads & tried different chargers and so on.
But the same thing keeps happening??
I’m talking about if iPhone had a percentage of say 80% charge. I turn it off, plug charger in. Check in 30mins & it’s only reached 5 or 6% more. It’s like something or someone is juice jacking?
Also I have used a 20w charger & still the same thing is happening?
Racked my head about all of this.
And I know sumat just don’t add up?
Neighbors have started sniggering aswel.
Last year we actually had another electrician out to again check electricity.
I was mowing the lawn and everything was fine. The electrician left. Then about 5mins later the lawn mower cut out? Then came back on. Same thing with electric kettle. Switched it on & even before started to boil up, it turned off. I walked away. Came back tried again and everything fine?
Any answers to my question or a device I could get would be much appreciated. It’s getting the evidence which is so hard .
Thank you 🙏
With a Tamper Resistant receptacle, you can't insert voltmeter probes. Does the clamp meter splitter provide test points? I keep a cheater ground plug for that use.
Is there something like the ac splitter but instead of the clamp you could use the leads?
I think the frequency check feature would be useful for adjusting your (emergency power) generator for power outages, to set the generator's frequency to 60 Hz.
Have you ever had to replace a complete window where you replace the outside framing it. Do you ever need to have a way to test from a plug or switch to the according circuit breaker.
I have always wondered how a line splitter multiplies the amps? If it just coils both the hot and neutral around in a loop ten times each then they would still just cancel each others emf out and you would still get no reading? I would like to see someone taking one apart.
I'd love for a review of stud finders. I have 3 and none of them seem to work properly and I tried banging my hand on the wall but it doesn't help.
I was ready to destroy your advertisement but then you addressed every smsrtass comment I had prepared. Looks like a good tool. Use those leads!!!
One electrical code that no handiman talks about is arch fault. It is the most important residential code, preventing fires for the past 23 years. It's in article 210.12 in the NEC code book.
I have a combination non-contact voltage tester with a receptacle+gfci tester. It is fantastic for basic jobs. You can check for voltage, confirm polarity, grounding and test gfci functionality. Though for trickier troubleshooting issues, I still bring out the multimeter.
I just recently discovered clamp meters. It's important to note that while almost all can do AC current & voltage as well as DC voltage that only some of them can do DC current. So if you need DC current clamp capability make sure you get a meter that has that.
thanks! video saved me! i thought clamps were for power lines only, ha.....
is it quick enough to pick up the surge of motors and pumps on start up?
The CL120 might not do the best job. If you step up to even the next level up (CL220) it is a "TRMS" meter which is more ideal in some applications where you need a more accurate measurement.
What you're looking for is something with inrush current support. Look at something like the Klein CL440, CL900, etc.
I had before now thought the clamp meter was optimized for the current side of measurement and a rather useful tool for those in the "HVAC" line of work only... I was so wrong... Nice content 👍
You say that you used this meter to measure the load for a generator, but how did you measure the in-rush or peak turn on amperage of the devices you were going to run with the generator?
But what about DC current for finding parasitic loads on the car or other 12V systems?
I picked up a micronta analog clamp meter with a break out adapter. It has a 1x and 10x slot. Super cool and very useful.
The other thing to look for is a DC amps clamp meter. Those are really useful for diagnosing DC systems in vehicles. I work with a lot of people transport systems that have heavy charging systems and heavy loads, and the DC amp clamp meters are indispensable.
For home use, you can buy a watt plug in meter instead of splitters. You plug the meter in outlet and then your device into it. It’ll tell you current and power consumption and a bunch or other metrics.
Those are pretty handy, thanks for the feedback!
They are called Kill a watt & they are available at Harbor Freight
Do you know the purpose of the 10x multiplier for current using the line splitter?
Hi, iam searching forna clamp meter with Bluetooth and App and DC ampere measering function. For example for solarmodul or car repair.
Would be nice if it had InRush Amp (for like measuring start power on a motor or HVAC system) Only one I've seen is on a FieldPiece meter.
Which one you recommend fluke 325 or fluke T6 1000 i do comercial and residential worl plus hvac
As far as I can see this clamp meter cannot measure low currents in order to check out Earth leakage / residual current issues :(. Am I correct?
Probably not. If you are looking to measure in the mA range that will be lower than what the CL120 is designed to accurately measure.
Thank you for explaining this Meter so thoroughly. I really enjoyed hearing and watching it.
I appreciate your support 🙌
Thanks for the great episode. Now I know what that bump on the end of my clamp multimeters is for!
I have a Fluke digital multimeter with an AC Ammeter clamp accessory, a Fluke clamp ammeter/multimeter, and a Chinese brand clamp ammeter/multimeter. For DIY work both the mid-priced (around $200?) Fluke and the $65 Chinese brand clamp ammeters work extremely well, and are flexible enough to do almost anything around the house. One of the MAIN differences that people should look for is whether the clamp meter will read current load (amps) in both AC and DC. Many standard DIY units will only read AC, but if you're a DIY person working on both standard 120/240 volt AC and any low-voltage DC systems like a doorbell, sprinkler controls, or maybe even fancy zoned-heating ducting controls in a house, or on just about any 6/12/24/48 volt DC vehicle then being able to read DC amps is EXTREMELY useful as a troubleshooting tool. For electronics and smaller scale DC volts and continuity testing my regular digital multimeter is the king, but for house or vehicle the AC/DC clamp multimeters are a far better ticket to success.
I really appreciate your video. You do not push sell 'click and subscribe' your channel. Why not? Because you are focusing your teaching instead of pleading for unrelated 'like'. :D For that, I subscribed and liked your video.
Also, the real reason for my following is because actually bought CL800 during the pandemic without much knowledge other than DC voltage testing. :D Now I have learned more from you.
i have the same fluke meter, thanks for the tips
as the owner of an travel trailer, i wish there was an easy way to measure dc current as well
can i use the splt adaptor with my fluke clamp with accurate reading?
Great video, I'm sold.
We're about to have an 18kw solar array installed with 10kwh battery, and I'm concerned if it will handle the startup load of our well pump (3 wire). Is this a tool i could use to see that?
I think you would need a clamp meter that can measure millisecond-duration Inrush Current (not just Min-Max functions). The value of which, you would need for sizing your battery and inverter. I'm not sure which Klein or Ideal has it. As you may already know, start up current of AC motors can range from 3x to 6x the normal running current.
@@ramschannelreviews - Thanks for that, and indeed I am aware of the startup demand. Actually Enphase, the kit I'm going with, has recently introduced a new generation battery they claim has that surge capability built in. Now whether a 10kwh battery can then run a well pump (230' deep) for any useful amount of time is another question which I think we'll soon find out the answer to.
Knowing how various tools measure or detect can be very helpful, even improving safety. Voltage is analogous to pressure, amperage is akin to volume. Direct contact meters can measure the "pressure drop" between a hot and neutral or ground, while NCV sticks rely on inductive fields around conductors, which may not always work as anticipated.
A surprising result shows when a stick detector is run along a cord; power is on, a complete circuit is operating, yet the stick will usually only alert along the "hot" side of the wires. Even in the breaker panel, the large neutral will usually not trigger the stick detector, though all the 120 V. current is carried back to the transformer along it. Why?
The analogy that fits is the hot leads are like the water pipes coming in to a place, under pressure, while the neutral and grounds are akin to the drains, where there is very little pressure.
You might get away with handling a neutral in a live circuit, because its resistance is much lower than your body; if you disconnect it, though, suddenly current will seek ground through you, going to either the neutral in your other hand, grounded surface in contact with you, etc. This is why modern tools have mandatory ground wires; old metal ones could have a neutral wear, and contact with the shell could make you the path of lower resistance. An uncle had that occur, and he survived by shoving the drill into the dirt. Not an ideal option.
I also use the water analogy, but if voltage is pressure, current is flow not volume (units/second) , and charge is volume.
UNI-T UT210D is probably the only one I would used or need!
Definitely going to watch this. I've been looking at these for awhile
Clamp Meters have come a long way for sure.
Some multimeters (no clamp) have a voltage tester built in. I have a Craftsman meter that has a voltage tester built in. The current clamp is a nice feature though I will admit.
If this is a dumb question forgive me. Let's say I want to change out an outlet in a room down the line from a GFCI outlet. Is it safe to work on the outlet downstream if I trip the GFCI, or is it still required that I turn off the breaker in the main box?
I had the same question but after reading so many stories about how some houses are wired, I would suggest to find the breaker and just turn it off. I would do one more test with a MM to ensure no voltage and you are good to go. Might want to also lock the breaker box to avoid someone flipping it back. Just my 2 cents. Try at your own risk or hire an electrician if still not comfortable.
Assuming everything is wired correctly then it is safe. But since there is a chance that the outlet is not actually down of the GFCI, there is that risk.
@@sergey8644 I got zapped so I always turn off breakers and do a voltage test. Has been my practice regardless. Better safe than sorry.
That would not be a best practice. I would flip the breaker to off. 👍
If you aren't the only person in the premises at the time you might even consider a method of locking the breaker off to ensure someone doesn't come along and turn it on while you are working.
I couldn't find your link to the more expensive clamp meter that does temp and capacitance on your linked list?
Very informative video but I must admit that one of the things that surprised me the most out of this video is that I learn that the testing probes have a little cap I've always been using them with the caps on and wondering why is the metal contact part so short! Im such a noob
This is one awesome video, needed to change my multimeter, get a clamp meter after this, cheers! 👍🏿
Nice, thanks for the feedback!
Looking for a new meter and wondering if this will test Uf or micro farads on a capacitor?
That split out is very clever
Do i need true rms when i measure alternator ?
o well i have another brand of clamp multi meter but i like the tip testing on that one and ability to hold a probe also have that klein 3 piece kit and neither meter does capacitance which i might need for my ac unit capacitor
Is their a Fluke version of this made in the USA?
This seems like good advice, until you realize a lot of clamp meters don't have the non-contact feature in them, and even if they do, the wand is tiny and can fit in a pocket, while the meter is large and not something you want to carry around. I'll always say to have a hot stick, they're small, light, cheap, and do the important job of saying if something is hot or not.
No real electrician would ever use a non contact piece of crap...
@@Scott-st2yi At least not to be safe. As an indicator, OK.
@@Scott-st2yiBeen an electrician for over 30 years and my non contact tester is always in my pocket. Test every cable with it and it's never let me down. Buy a quality one, worth every penny.
I use non contact daily! Keep it clipped to my sheet collar! They are Ling little heffers at times. If in doubt just trip the circuit. Usually run into that issue in commercial where they shared neutrals across circuits.
I use a non contact alot but the meter is the surefire way to tell if something dead or not cause feedback from other circuits can cause the non contact tester to go off sometimes