I made a room inside my shed and I used this to insulate it. It keeps the heat in during the winter and so far it keeps a constant temperature of around 73-75 degrees even when it's been about 90 outside. I keep my window open as well to help with ventilation. I'm in north Florida
In building construction, a vapor barrier is used to the interior. That is what the kraft or brown paper on fiberglass insulation is used for. If you use unfaced insulation, you then use a vapor barrier. If there is a concern, like you have, a perforated radiant barrier can be used in this application or regular wall construction. This will allow some moisture transfer. If a finished wall is desired, firring strips should be used to create 1/2" airspace between radiant barrier and finish.
Nice video, although foil tape should be used to completely seal the gaps, including any other holes. The insulation behind is likely to sweat with condensation without an air tight vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation. The sheets should also start from the bottom and overlap until you reach the ceiling, as condensation is likely to form on the inside and run down the inside face.
I put some of this up under my crawl space. It starts getting warm once you get quite a bit of it installed, due to the fact that it reflects around 95% of your body heat. Takes a lot of staples if you want to create a vapor barrier, but it beats fiber glass for that, and you don't get covered in fiber glass when you're crawling around under a crawl space.
please - could you tell me more about your installation. i am considering putting this under the joists of my floor in my crawl space. what is the end result for your utility / heating bill ? noticeable difference in anything. all the information you can provide would be appreciated. thanks - mick.
I haven't finished the installation yet, been too busy with other things. So far I can tell a difference in the one room that I have it under. Don't have enough information on the heating bill, as it's been unseasonably warm here so far this winter. We had some cold weather earlier in the season, and I did notice the heat didn't come on as often, yet it stayed comfortable. That's with just one room insulated, so I imagine it'll be pretty toasty once I get it all done. I didn't have any insulation under the floors here before, so this will make a big difference.
As the other person stated I'm about to do this as well because my house didn't come with insulation as well. So three years later what's your results with installing this? When you did it did you do two layers or one layer?
@@TheOfficialSoulfire I did 1 layer right at the bottom of the 2 x 10 joists, folded into the joist space about 1/4" from the bottom so I've got a good airspace between the floor and the insulation. Takes a little longer to install, because you have to staple it every few inches, but you can work in comfort instead of being itchy the whole time. That was the main reason I went with this product instead of fiberglass. Hard to measure difference in heating bill, as I burn oil and temps have been crazy past few years while prices fluctuate. Definitely warmer when it's cold, and I don't feel drafts when the cold wind blows.
@@Scott.Farkus okay so basically you only did one layer and it sounds like that's fine to do correct? On TH-cam their video shows a guy putting two layers with space in between. I'm also assuming I can't just install this across a bunch of joist and instead install into each individual cavity like he did correct?
I would use aluminium tape to seal the seam from both air or moisture infiltration. I would want to make both horizontal layers, top and bottom, into one, single, large mass, impervious to air, heat or moisture escaping or infiltrating by taping that seam closed. And certainly seal any holes cut into that foil, such as electrical outlets, pipes, vents, etc. Just my 2 cents worth. And make sure you keep on top of the moisture levels. Living in Las Vegas it isn't a huge worry for us, but for most others it could lead to mold, mildew, fungal, yeast or metal rust issues, as well as air quality issues (CO2, CO, etc) from a space being 'super' insulated from any air leaks! Too little is as bad as too much, of anything. Understand the ramifications of anything you do, as all positive things have a drawback somewhere, for those unaware of the total picture!
Yes, and you are right. You can sheetrock on top of the foil as shown in the video if you run furring strips over the foil before the sheetrock to create an airspace. The other alternative is a product called "staple tab" that runs widths similar to fiberglass insulation. This goes into the stud cavity and can be installed into the cavity approximately 3/4" with the tabs even with the edge of the stud. This allows for the necessary airspace as well and sheetrock can then be applied.
@georgel19841 No georgel this is high grade commercial aluminum foil that is designed to reflect radiant heat. It's tear proof with additional materials to strengthen the product. Aluminum foil is completely different and certainly not to be used as an insulation material.
I did this to my garage in 2006 before I ever saw a Mike Holmes production. If I had to do it all again, it would be with closed cell foam. I had to open the wall recently for a new electrical main panel install. No mold, no moisture. This stuff was advertised then as an R19 value, but it is only a thermal break. Closed cell would have been so much easier and better, but more expensive. I had to extend my garage door opener antenna because of this stuff, it blocks all signals. I thought I would answer a few of your questions since InsulationStop stopped answering years ago.
Closed cell insulation is a great insulator and as you mentioned expensive as compared to other insulation types. Our products are impervious to mold and moisture as well, that's why they excel in applications prone to these conditions. The r-value you mentioned is for fiberglass insulation and not reflective insulation (or at least should not be). Regarding extending your garage door opener antenna this is interesting as there are many references on the web that radiant barriers block reception. We have not found this to be an issue with our customers. We DO however sell a product designed to block all signals but this is used in a specific types of wall constructions. The products are for SCIF buildings or Sensitive Compartmented Information Facilities. They are essentially quiet rooms used primarily by the government where they need to ensure there is no electronic eavesdropping. Here is a link to the SCIF information on our webpage, www.insulationstop.com/rfoil-scif-ultra-nt-radiant-barrier-solid.html, look halfway down the page under the product to see the SCIF specification and different wall construction techniques. We apologize for not answering comments. We were unable to comment, post video or access our account under TH-cam/Google/Google Plus "conflicting accounts". It took a long time to get this figured out so we would not lose our entire channel. With the help of Google Support we finally did.
Many garages especially in the southern United States are insulating with reflective insulation as it is inexpensive, and works exceptionally well at blocking radiant heat which is what is being transferred by the metal door into the garage.
Would this be good to use as lining for an outdoor cat shelter? Would it have to be used doubled to make it warm in the winter? Does one need to buy a whole roll.....I'd only be using a yard or two at most.
If I use this on my garage door, what kind of tape must I use on the seam (since I'll need to run 2 courses). Duct tape? Vinyl tape? Electrical tape? Outdoor temps here reach 115 in the summer. Thanks so much!
If you put drywall right on top, it will no longer be a radiant barrier. It will conduct the heat from the drywall through the barrier. There must be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the next surface to work
I don't think he said WHY you need furring strips before drywall. but it's because you don't want conduction to occur between the 2 surfaces. you want to create that distance so only reflection can occur.
+romansten9 Agreed. Without an airspace you don't have a true radiant barrier. This benefit would only be in the bubble layers (resistance) and the fiberglass is far, far more effective for that.
+Building Supply Stop How MUCH of an airspace do you need?? I'm thinking of using this in a shipping container to use as a shop. I'm using 2x2's to furr out the walls away from the steel sides, and I'm using OSB as my walls. I was thinking of using unfaced fiberglass and covering with this, and then the OSB. Do I need an airspace between the OSB and the foil insulation? Or would the foil be better on the outside of the fiberglass?
3/4" of an inch or more for the airspace. Typically the foil goes to the side you want to keep heat out. If that's both, interior and exterior, as you are going to heat in the winter, you have to make a choice. Keeping the vapor barrier to the metal will protect other insulation inside.
My cabinets are next toa wall that has really weak insulation or maybe none at all. In the summer, the house can be decently cool, but the cabinet space feels like a heater. Vice versa for the winter. Can installing this aluminum foil help, if I apply directly on the walls within the cabinets?
Can this be put up on an exterior wall before putting in the batting insulation if an air space is created between them? I have a room that has it installed already. It was put up before the outer plywood was installed. It actually insulates pretty well this way but I want to use the room as living space and needs more insulation. So would like to add batting and paneling.
I have a question - I am insulating a wood shed built from a kit. I bought the one that has a white side and the aluminum side (Reflective foam core 1/4 inch insulation barrier roll). Do I face the aluminum side outwards and the white side facing inwards. It is very hot where I live 100+ for many days a year and I want to stop everything I have stored from getting too hot. Am I doing it correctly?
i would like to put this on gyprock behind kitchen cupboards as the gyprock i feel is not thick enough to keep out cold , home job by my brother , wold like insulation that sticks to gyprock , i have seen foam between aluminium , not sure what is best , can you help
Hello, looking at insulating my basement and will be framing 2x4 with fibreglass insulation in them and was wondering if this product be safe between the studs and concrete wall?
I've only seen videos using the single foil layer in attics, and a lot of talk about radiant vs. conductive heat, and air gap. No explanation on the choice of material in this video. Whether a basement or an attic, i assume the goal is he same: In the winter keep the warmth in and tne cold out. The opposite in summer. So why different products?
I need a help please. I have colder room in my house and I know that it leaks energy because I think it has thermal bridge on its corner. The room is located in the north direction of the apartment. If I installed such insulation, could it form Mould between the wall and this insulation in this corner while we will not be able to see it? Thx in advance
Always tough to answer questions about moisture as it's so specific to your building and local climate. If it "leaks" then moisture can/is moving through. Whether it would get trapped and create mold we cannot answer. We can say the insulation does not promote the growth of mold, a positive feature of foil insulation products. Maybe air seal the area 1st then insulate from there?
You need the proper thickness , also overlapping layers should be well pressed together, and also attach the foil to earth ground. Doors and windows are not allowed. Generally impractical for the avg person who doesn;t run an airforce antenna testing facility.
On a bare metal trailer, should i use REFLECTIX against the back face of the metal (spot glued), then denim insulation in the channel, then REFLECTIX on studs facing interior? Please advise.
Hvac guy Ones I used this insulation on the attic just rolling above mineral ins. After two years i removed this becouse ovner seel the house i find from inside side mosiure ! So the house not breathes. For sure alter couple years mold be there . And another problem with this is------ No cell phone servis!!! Verry lo signal!!! low network coverage
I want to confirm that you had installed this above your insulation on the top side of you rafters? I would think this should go on the warm side under the drywall
Hi i just bought this type of insulation for my metal shed, will it work for metal shed? Im trying to insulate my metal shed where i’m putting my birds, does this type of insulation good for a metal shed i live in canada which is we have 4 season here, and im just worried about the 3 season which is winter fall and spring these 3 seasons r very cold, i hope u could give me some ideas
Insulation will reflect radiant heat, keep buildings cooler in summer and keep heat in during the winter. In the winter you must have heat to keep in obviously.
I have a small steel trailer I'm converting to a photo booth, can I usesprayadhesive with this insulation and not have problems with it coming down due to heat.?
Just started inquiring about insulation. I am in southern CA and have an older wood stud building/shed that has no insulation. Last winter we had several weeks of 24-35 degree weather. Summer is avg of 90-106. How much does the foil bubble wrap increase the R value?
If I was to do this with tinfoil aluminum foil and the put lining paper over it would it hellp with preventing damp mould and help keep my flat warm I live in uk
Standard tin foil aluminum does not have the same reflectivity as radiant barriers made to block heat. You would want a product at least 95% reflective or more. I'm guessing you want the lining paper to act like the kraft paper used in insulation to be a vapor barrier? If so you would want the lining paper to have the same attributes as kraft used in standard insulation products.
In order to be considered radiant barriers, reflective insulation must be at least 93% reflective. I am not sure exactly what you are referring to when you mention "tinfoil"? I'm guessing the lining paper would act as the "kraft" liner which we use in the United States as a vapor barrier.
Yes, will provide flexible insulation. See customer projects insulating pools with reflective bubble insulation here, www.insulationstop.com/radiant-barrier-blog/search/pool/?
A glaring issue I see here is that with any sort of vapor barrier or radiant barrier, both inside or outside of the wall, you should start the wrap layer at the bottom and all layers above it should overlap it 3" to 6" depending on local codes. By doing it top down you create a seam for potential moisture and condensation to drop into and collect. So I consider this to be improper! So much bad information on TH-cam unfortunately.
Such a waste of staples. all your furring strips and drywall will hold all the foil in place so all you really need is a couple staples just to hold it in place till your walls are up.
Anytime you attach a "vapor barrier" (commonly attached with staples) it is no longer a barrier, because staples create holes. Even one hole will comprise the so called "barrier" and a large amount of moisture can seep through one pin hole, which has been demonstrated many times. So it makes a person ask, whats the point?
This is exactly what not to do. The drywalll should be glued and screwed to the studs. I saw this done before and there ended up being screw pops everywhere a few months later. The correct way to do it is to fasten it in between the studs leaving a 3/4 inch air gap.
Yes it is only a basement ,but for a "professional" to do such a rough job I am disgusted, I have used this product and it is easy to tension it and staple in a uniform pattern and make it look much better.
@Kelvin, We specialize in providing the insulation and not so much as videography! So you know the material was taken down after the shoot and reinstalled and looks perfect. We appreciate your comments. I'm guessing you were watching at the the 2:02 min mark?
I think serious consideration should be given to the possible moisture buildup and mold growth behind the foil. Given that the foil is being installed over insulation, one might wonder if a radiant barrier without the bubbles might be considered. I have no idea if a radiant barrier with ventilation holes might be a better way to go or not. See videos on attic radiant barriers.
All of these radiant barriers need at least 1 inch of air space to be effective. Every manufacturer has that info on their packaging and web site. Attaching it in this manner doesn't do any good.
Probably by R2 or so. You should really go with cellulose, fiberglass or foam unless it's just an unfinished barn type building you're trying to keep some sun out of.
Yes you can. You do want to provide the necessary 3/4" airspace between insulation and drywall. This can be accomplished by using 1" (actual 3/4") furring available anywhere locally.
Depends on the application. On our website we show many different construction applications and the R-values are listed there. (Pole Barns, Metal Buildings, HVAC Insulation, Pipewrap Insulation, Under Slab Insulation, Crawlspace Insulation)
lostimage08 This is the r-value when used under a concrete slab as an airspace is not present so only the bubble layers are creating the resistance or R.
The r-rating depends on your application. Our website shows many of the common applications and their related R-values (use in barns, metal buildings, hvac insulation, pipe wrap insulation, and under concrete slabs) to name a few. Radiant barriers, the sheet like material, have no r-rating and provide a radiant barrier only.
lostimage08 This is the r-value when used under a concrete slab or in a radiant heat application as there is not an airspace present. The bubble layers provide the R.
+Gordon Wagner Why would you? The this product does nothing, minimal R-factor, expensive and flammable. The reason this sales pitch provides no information on said product is, there isn't any. It's antiquated and useless.
You should have left it alone and not try to con a con. Energy Vanguard Blog The Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap Sham www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/29497/The-Foil-Faced-Bubble-Wrap-Sham-Understanding-Radiant-Barriers
You're kidding? "Anyone" - does that include you? If so, what are the benefits? Present data, not your personal "feeling" and your most extensive experience - bottom feeder.
Randy Lavine Company called “Neway packaging supply company” they have dozens of rolls on hand all the time. They’re a good friendly local owned company and they’ll give you fair prices and a great staff. Will call it and you ca pick it up the same day. Tell em jonathan sent ya and they even may just give ya a discount. Your welcome.
This depends on the location actually. In some states the location goes through very different seasons from cold / frozen to seeping / wet to dry and breathing. While other locations only go through cold / frozen to wet. In such locations a vapor barrier is advised. Not only that if you have outside treatment to the wall a vapor barrier might also be suggested to keep the inner wall away from both climates.
No, hence the furring strips. You do not want the foil insulation against the sheetrock because it will suck in the heat (or cold) and transfer to the other side.
In finished areas this is where it would be installed. For unfinished areas the insulation facing the exterior is commonplace, especially in barns for instance.
In finished areas it would be, however for unfinished spaces this application is fine. This is the same way it would be installed in metal out buildings and barns.
ladies and gentlemen...you are looking at about $140-180 just for that one wall of foil barrier. Plastic barrier is only about $10-15 dollars for that wall.. LOL budget is the new trend. Ill stick with the plastic rolls
Plastic rolls ? That wouldn’t reflect any of the radiant heat which this is designed for , this also didn’t say you have to have a 1/2” - 3/4” air gap as well. So no plastic would not work , Stop spreading wrong info on the internet to sound like you know what your doing .
I don't get it. Why would I ad R-4 to finished wall with all that extra work? I don't get it,..You are not gonna feel the difference in a basement. Not to mention how you messed with the vapor barrier.
I made a room inside my shed and I used this to insulate it. It keeps the heat in during the winter and so far it keeps a constant temperature of around 73-75 degrees even when it's been about 90 outside. I keep my window open as well to help with ventilation. I'm in north Florida
In building construction, a vapor barrier is used to the interior. That is what the kraft or brown paper on fiberglass insulation is used for. If you use unfaced insulation, you then use a vapor barrier. If there is a concern, like you have, a perforated radiant barrier can be used in this application or regular wall construction. This will allow some moisture transfer. If a finished wall is desired, firring strips should be used to create 1/2" airspace between radiant barrier and finish.
Nice video, although foil tape should be used to completely seal the gaps, including any other holes. The insulation behind is likely to sweat with condensation without an air tight vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation. The sheets should also start from the bottom and overlap until you reach the ceiling, as condensation is likely to form on the inside and run down the inside face.
I was wondering if the foil would trap moisture in the fiberglass.
I put some of this up under my crawl space. It starts getting warm once you get quite a bit of it installed, due to the fact that it reflects around 95% of your body heat. Takes a lot of staples if you want to create a vapor barrier, but it beats fiber glass for that, and you don't get covered in fiber glass when you're crawling around under a crawl space.
please - could you tell me more about your installation. i am considering putting this under the joists of my floor in my crawl space. what is the end result for your utility / heating bill ? noticeable difference in anything. all the information you can provide would be appreciated. thanks - mick.
I haven't finished the installation yet, been too busy with other things. So far I can tell a difference in the one room that I have it under.
Don't have enough information on the heating bill, as it's been unseasonably warm here so far this winter. We had some cold weather earlier in the season, and I did notice the heat didn't come on as often, yet it stayed comfortable. That's with just one room insulated, so I imagine it'll be pretty toasty once I get it all done.
I didn't have any insulation under the floors here before, so this will make a big difference.
As the other person stated I'm about to do this as well because my house didn't come with insulation as well. So three years later what's your results with installing this? When you did it did you do two layers or one layer?
@@TheOfficialSoulfire I did 1 layer right at the bottom of the 2 x 10 joists, folded into the joist space about 1/4" from the bottom so I've got a good airspace between the floor and the insulation.
Takes a little longer to install, because you have to staple it every few inches, but you can work in comfort instead of being itchy the whole time. That was the main reason I went with this product instead of fiberglass.
Hard to measure difference in heating bill, as I burn oil and temps have been crazy past few years while prices fluctuate. Definitely warmer when it's cold, and I don't feel drafts when the cold wind blows.
@@Scott.Farkus okay so basically you only did one layer and it sounds like that's fine to do correct? On TH-cam their video shows a guy putting two layers with space in between. I'm also assuming I can't just install this across a bunch of joist and instead install into each individual cavity like he did correct?
I would use aluminium tape to seal the seam from both air or moisture infiltration. I would want to make both horizontal layers, top and bottom, into one, single, large mass, impervious to air, heat or moisture escaping or infiltrating by taping that seam closed.
And certainly seal any holes cut into that foil, such as electrical outlets, pipes, vents, etc.
Just my 2 cents worth.
And make sure you keep on top of the moisture levels.
Living in Las Vegas it isn't a huge worry for us, but for most others it could lead to mold, mildew, fungal, yeast or metal rust issues, as well as air quality issues (CO2, CO, etc) from a space being 'super' insulated from any air leaks!
Too little is as bad as too much, of anything. Understand the ramifications of anything you do, as all positive things have a drawback somewhere, for those unaware of the total picture!
👆 what he said
That's what I did
Yes, and you are right. You can sheetrock on top of the foil as shown in the video if you run furring strips over the foil before the sheetrock to create an airspace. The other alternative is a product called "staple tab" that runs widths similar to fiberglass insulation. This goes into the stud cavity and can be installed into the cavity approximately 3/4" with the tabs even with the edge of the stud. This allows for the necessary airspace as well and sheetrock can then be applied.
@georgel19841
No georgel this is high grade commercial aluminum foil that is designed to reflect radiant heat. It's tear proof with additional materials to strengthen the product. Aluminum foil is completely different and certainly not to be used as an insulation material.
I did this to my garage in 2006 before I ever saw a Mike Holmes production. If I had to do it all again, it would be with closed cell foam. I had to open the wall recently for a new electrical main panel install. No mold, no moisture. This stuff was advertised then as an R19 value, but it is only a thermal break. Closed cell would have been so much easier and better, but more expensive. I had to extend my garage door opener antenna because of this stuff, it blocks all signals. I thought I would answer a few of your questions since InsulationStop stopped answering years ago.
Closed cell insulation is a great insulator and as you mentioned expensive as compared to other insulation types. Our products are impervious to mold and moisture as well, that's why they excel in applications prone to these conditions. The r-value you mentioned is for fiberglass insulation and not reflective insulation (or at least should not be). Regarding extending your garage door opener antenna this is interesting as there are many references on the web that radiant barriers block reception. We have not found this to be an issue with our customers. We DO however sell a product designed to block all signals but this is used in a specific types of wall constructions. The products are for SCIF buildings or Sensitive Compartmented Information Facilities. They are essentially quiet rooms used primarily by the government where they need to ensure there is no electronic eavesdropping. Here is a link to the SCIF information on our webpage, www.insulationstop.com/rfoil-scif-ultra-nt-radiant-barrier-solid.html, look halfway down the page under the product to see the SCIF specification and different wall construction techniques. We apologize for not answering comments. We were unable to comment, post video or access our account under TH-cam/Google/Google Plus "conflicting accounts". It took a long time to get this figured out so we would not lose our entire channel. With the help of Google Support we finally did.
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Should you occasionally miss the stud, say like at 2:36
just pretend like it never happened.
As any good contractor would do! LOL
I wonder... Does foil create a Faraday cage effect if you have the stuff all around?
Thus blocking radio, satellite, cell signal, etc?
Add some graphite
And the door leading into the room would also have to be insulated with it as well
Can this be installed directly on the wall instead? I’d like to use it in my garage which has cement walls...
No it doesn't work like that. The insulation comes from the gap between the foil and the wall of the shed.
@@milliepaterson2758 Correct. Does it work for creating a "cold room" as well.?
This looks like it might work well in my garage. I already insulated the garage door with something similar. This might be good enough for the walls.
In the southern United States, it is common to insulate your garage doors with our products.
Many garages especially in the southern United States are insulating with reflective insulation as it is inexpensive, and works exceptionally well at blocking radiant heat which is what is being transferred by the metal door into the garage.
Was thinking you should've started at the bottom first that way the top would've overlapped the bottom instead of the other way around. Looks good👍
I know this stuff is intended to reflect heat..but would it also work to keep an air conditioned room colder?
I would love to see some of these questions answered by insulationstop
If i do not have fiberglass insulation in my garage.. Can I use this product directly on the plywood between the studs?
Would this be good to use as lining for an outdoor cat shelter? Would it have to be used doubled to make it warm in the winter?
Does one need to buy a whole roll.....I'd only be using a yard or two at most.
Will this help block alien transmissions lile my foil underwear does?
Don't know where to start with that one Bruce....
***** Steve: I've heard of potential cell phone reception issues but not TV reception. Isn't the antenna on the roof?
***** is that a pun?
.......you are a strange and interesting person..,......hahahahaha.........
.
If I use this on my garage door, what kind of tape must I use on the seam (since I'll need to run 2 courses). Duct tape? Vinyl tape? Electrical tape? Outdoor temps here reach 115 in the summer. Thanks so much!
Why firring strips? Can you not apply drywall right on top?
Also, you didn’t say how thick it is or what R value it adds by putting on interior
If you put drywall right on top, it will no longer be a radiant barrier. It will conduct the heat from the drywall through the barrier. There must be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the next surface to work
I don't think he said WHY you need furring strips before drywall. but it's because you don't want conduction to occur between the 2 surfaces. you want to create that distance so only reflection can occur.
+romansten9 Agreed. Without an airspace you don't have a true radiant barrier. This benefit would only be in the bubble layers (resistance) and the fiberglass is far, far more effective for that.
+Building Supply Stop How MUCH of an airspace do you need?? I'm thinking of using this in a shipping container to use as a shop. I'm using 2x2's to furr out the walls away from the steel sides, and I'm using OSB as my walls. I was thinking of using unfaced fiberglass and covering with this, and then the OSB. Do I need an airspace between the OSB and the foil insulation? Or would the foil be better on the outside of the fiberglass?
3/4" of an inch or more for the airspace. Typically the foil goes to the side you want to keep heat out. If that's both, interior and exterior, as you are going to heat in the winter, you have to make a choice. Keeping the vapor barrier to the metal will protect other insulation inside.
I'm wanting to buy that insulation and do it myself. Thanks to you and I won't have to hire a handyman!
🤔😂😅🤣🏆
@@OKFrax-ys2op had a guy put up drop ceiling instead!
Cuts down on heating, and lighting for your illegal grow op.
For for your legitimate Microgreens/Gourmet Mushroom Farm. Not everybody involved in indoor agriculture is on dope.
My cabinets are next toa wall that has really weak insulation or maybe none at all. In the summer, the house can be decently cool, but the cabinet space feels like a heater. Vice versa for the winter. Can installing this aluminum foil help, if I apply directly on the walls within the cabinets?
Wonder if you could make long johns with bubble foil?
Can this be put up on an exterior wall before putting in the batting insulation if an air space is created between them? I have a room that has it installed already. It was put up before the outer plywood was installed. It actually insulates pretty well this way but I want to use the room as living space and needs more insulation. So would like to add batting and paneling.
Yes you can
I have a question - I am insulating a wood shed built from a kit. I bought the one that has a white side and the aluminum side (Reflective foam core 1/4 inch insulation barrier roll). Do I face the aluminum side outwards and the white side facing inwards. It is very hot where I live 100+ for many days a year and I want to stop everything I have stored from getting too hot. Am I doing it correctly?
What R value is the newly covered wall improved?
Do you know anything about the varying prices thus qualities ? I was rather dismayed when I discovered they range from 12.00 to aprox. 225.00 a roll
Can this product be used on an indoor sheet rock wall, will the moisture be controlled?
We have used this in our attic like in the video. We have it on top of our concrete taped together, with carpet pad and carpet on top. It’s great!
Is that stuff fireproof. ? Could I use it behind a wood stove ?
i would like to put this on gyprock behind kitchen cupboards as the gyprock i feel is not thick enough to keep out cold , home job by my brother , wold like insulation that sticks to gyprock , i have seen foam between aluminium , not sure what is best , can you help
Hello, looking at insulating my basement and will be framing 2x4 with fibreglass insulation in them and was wondering if this product be safe between the studs and concrete wall?
I've only seen videos using the single foil layer in attics, and a lot of talk about radiant vs. conductive heat, and air gap.
No explanation on the choice of material in this video.
Whether a basement or an attic, i assume the goal is he same: In the winter keep the warmth in and tne cold out. The opposite in summer.
So why different products?
Can you but this on interior household insulated walls instead of vapor barrier b4 adding sheetrock ???
How is this stuff in the summer time? Does it get too hot?
I need a help please. I have colder room in my house and I know that it leaks energy because I think it has thermal bridge on its corner. The room is located in the north direction of the apartment. If I installed such insulation, could it form Mould between the wall and this insulation in this corner while we will not be able to see it? Thx in advance
Always tough to answer questions about moisture as it's so specific to your building and local climate. If it "leaks" then moisture can/is moving through. Whether it would get trapped and create mold we cannot answer. We can say the insulation does not promote the growth of mold, a positive feature of foil insulation products. Maybe air seal the area 1st then insulate from there?
The industry leader, Reflectix, states on their website the greatest R value is achieved when there's a 3/4" air gap between it and the batting
Curious? Would this prevent cellular 5G waves from permeating your homes interior?
Or wear a foil hat
You need the proper thickness , also overlapping layers should be well pressed together, and also attach the foil to earth ground. Doors and windows are not allowed. Generally impractical for the avg person who doesn;t run an airforce antenna testing facility.
On a bare metal trailer, should i use REFLECTIX against the back face of the metal (spot glued), then denim insulation in the channel, then REFLECTIX on studs facing interior? Please advise.
You wouldn't get good insulation. It needs to have space behind it, not directly on any wall surface.
Hvac guy
Ones I used this insulation on the attic just rolling above mineral ins.
After two years i removed this becouse ovner seel the house i find from inside side mosiure ! So the house not breathes. For sure alter couple years mold be there .
And another problem with this is------
No cell phone servis!!! Verry lo signal!!!
low network coverage
I want to confirm that you had installed this above your insulation on the top side of you rafters? I would think this should go on the warm side under the drywall
@endlesssummerlc Loretta, it was my pleasure. Please let me know if we can help further.
that foil is made like ""Aluminium foil""?is it the same ?
would this work if i put it on a regular wall?
What can I put ontop of the fiberglass?
Which stepper .machine you are using
Is it work for mini cold storage about 2m x 3m.?
Other than strength, how is standard aluminum foil different? Thaks
Can you put tongue and groove wood on top of the foil???
Hi sir, how to install if the frame made form metal/ aluminum? Ty
I'm betting if you get a disco ball and lights this stuff would really shine.
I have a metal shed 10×12. How could I use this in my shed? Also, do I put it on the ceiling and under the floor?
Spray adhesive,
You wouldn't get good insulation. It needs to have space behind it, not directly on any wall surface.
Can we put plasterboard on top of this?
Hi i just bought this type of insulation for my metal shed, will it work for metal shed? Im trying to insulate my metal shed where i’m putting my birds, does this type of insulation good for a metal shed i live in canada which is we have 4 season here, and im just worried about the 3 season which is winter fall and spring these 3 seasons r very cold, i hope u could give me some ideas
Insulation will reflect radiant heat, keep buildings cooler in summer and keep heat in during the winter. In the winter you must have heat to keep in obviously.
Building Supply Stop thank you
You are not supposed to use a vapor barrier below grade in climate zones 4 and higher. Check building codes for your area.
I have a small steel trailer I'm converting to a photo booth, can I usesprayadhesive with this insulation and not have problems with it coming down due to heat.?
I wouldn't trust the spray adhesive long term. Use a construction adhesive for a permanent bond.
Thanks..
Just started inquiring about insulation. I am in southern CA and have an older wood stud building/shed that has no insulation. Last winter we had several weeks of 24-35 degree weather. Summer is avg of 90-106. How much does the foil bubble wrap increase the R value?
If I was to do this with tinfoil aluminum foil and the put lining paper over it would it hellp with preventing damp mould and help keep my flat warm I live in uk
Standard tin foil aluminum does not have the same reflectivity as radiant barriers made to block heat. You would want a product at least 95% reflective or more. I'm guessing you want the lining paper to act like the kraft paper used in insulation to be a vapor barrier? If so you would want the lining paper to have the same attributes as kraft used in standard insulation products.
In order to be considered radiant barriers, reflective insulation must be at least 93% reflective. I am not sure exactly what you are referring to when you mention "tinfoil"? I'm guessing the lining paper would act as the "kraft" liner which we use in the United States as a vapor barrier.
I thought there suppose to be a space between insulation and the reflective film but it looks like its wright on it
Impressive video demonstrating use of reflective foil bubble for insulation. Easy to install and remove
thinking of using this for my above ground pool under the liner, any thoughts?
Yes, will provide flexible insulation. See customer projects insulating pools with reflective bubble insulation here, www.insulationstop.com/radiant-barrier-blog/search/pool/?
@@nicksemon5943 thanks, would the foil/bubble/foil or the foil/bubble/poly be better for this application
@@brianmcdermott2596 foil/foil
Is this product flammable/fireproof (or flame resistant anyway)?
Nobody knows
A glaring issue I see here is that with any sort of vapor barrier or radiant barrier, both inside or outside of the wall, you should start the wrap layer at the bottom and all layers above it should overlap it 3" to 6" depending on local codes. By doing it top down you create a seam for potential moisture and condensation to drop into and collect. So I consider this to be improper! So much bad information on TH-cam unfortunately.
Such a waste of staples. all your furring strips and drywall will hold all the foil in place so all you really need is a couple staples just to hold it in place till your walls are up.
I would just throw that behind the studs and that’s it it’ll keep the heat in unless you do between every single joist above it’s useless
HOW TO ATTACH FOR METAL STUDS
Anytime you attach a "vapor barrier" (commonly attached with staples) it is no longer a barrier, because staples create holes. Even one hole will comprise the so called "barrier" and a large amount of moisture can seep through one pin hole, which has been demonstrated many times. So it makes a person ask, whats the point?
This is completely untrue.
How you use it for concret wall
This is exactly what not to do. The drywalll should be glued and screwed to the studs. I saw this done before and there ended up being screw pops everywhere a few months later. The correct way to do it is to fasten it in between the studs leaving a 3/4 inch air gap.
Nick, thanks for your help this morning. Loretta
Yes it is only a basement ,but for a "professional" to do such a rough job I am disgusted, I have used this product and it is easy to tension it and staple in a uniform pattern and make it look much better.
@Kelvin, We specialize in providing the insulation and not so much as videography! So you know the material was taken down after the shoot and reinstalled and looks perfect. We appreciate your comments. I'm guessing you were watching at the the 2:02 min mark?
I think serious consideration should be given to the possible moisture buildup and mold growth behind the foil. Given that the foil is being installed over insulation, one might wonder if a radiant barrier without the bubbles might be considered. I have no idea if a radiant barrier with ventilation holes might be a better way to go or not. See videos on attic radiant barriers.
Can you install sheetrock on top of the foil insulation? But don't you don't an air gap somewhere in the process?
He said have to add furring strips
Someone's going to grow a biggggggggggggg fucking marijuana basement farm.
Come on man. You can’t leave that insulation in the upper left like that.
I noticed that too. And it looks like he did.
Can you install this on attic ceiling rafters?
All of these radiant barriers need at least 1 inch of air space to be effective. Every manufacturer has that info on their packaging and web site. Attaching it in this manner doesn't do any good.
Agreed, it's actually 3/4". You can fir/strap the wall and then finish with sheetrock/paneling. This will achieve the correct recommended airspace.
where is the all important vapor barrier? this will destroy the R-value of the insulation!
The foil is MUCH thicker than typical poly (typically 3/16" versus .006"), it actually is better as a moisture barrier..
Brend-Petter Løvaas
I would use foil tape all the way around the joint between the two layers. Then you most definitely have a vapor barrier.
I use foil for any kind of my artwork.
Probably by R2 or so. You should really go with cellulose, fiberglass or foam unless it's just an unfinished barn type building you're trying to keep some sun out of.
I would like to know if I can install that foil insulation over directly on to the ceiling and not on to the attic? Please reply ASAP. Thanks
Were can I buy some of this link please
www.insulationstop.com
sounds like it would be good for knee wall space
Can you drywall over it?
Yes you can. You do want to provide the necessary 3/4" airspace between insulation and drywall. This can be accomplished by using 1" (actual 3/4") furring available anywhere locally.
@@InsulationstopRadiantBarrier so cool thanks man
What's the rated R value of this stuff?
The R value is 1, its used to stop radiant heat, not conductive heat.
Depends on the application. On our website we show many different construction applications and the R-values are listed there. (Pole Barns, Metal Buildings, HVAC Insulation, Pipewrap Insulation, Under Slab Insulation, Crawlspace Insulation)
lostimage08 This is the r-value when used under a concrete slab as an airspace is not present so only the bubble layers are creating the resistance or R.
The r-rating depends on your application. Our website shows many of the common applications and their related R-values (use in barns, metal buildings, hvac insulation, pipe wrap insulation, and under concrete slabs) to name a few. Radiant barriers, the sheet like material, have no r-rating and provide a radiant barrier only.
lostimage08 This is the r-value when used under a concrete slab or in a radiant heat application as there is not an airspace present. The bubble layers provide the R.
Can this be used in a non-basement interior wall?
Gordon Wagner Yes, please see this page showing wall application ( 2x4, 2x6, knee wall, masonry wall, and crawlspace. www.insulationstop.com/wall-ceiling-crawlspace Thank you.
+Gordon Wagner Why would you? The this product does nothing, minimal R-factor, expensive and flammable. The reason this sales pitch provides no information on said product is, there isn't any. It's antiquated and useless.
+Tim Dunk It's unfortunate you feel this way, and promote it, as anyone who has worked with the product extensively knows what the benefits are.
You should have left it alone and not try to con a con.
Energy Vanguard Blog
The Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap Sham www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/29497/The-Foil-Faced-Bubble-Wrap-Sham-Understanding-Radiant-Barriers
You're kidding? "Anyone" - does that include you? If so, what are the benefits? Present data, not your personal "feeling" and your most extensive experience - bottom feeder.
can you put this in a closet?
What does this accomplish
In the Las Vegas, NV area, where can I buy this in a large capacity roll? Home Depot does not carry it, neither does Lowe's.
How many rolls do you want ?My email is sales5@junyuecn.com . We can offer you
You can order it from Home Depot. I bought 5 rolls from them a while back.
Randy Lavine Company called “Neway packaging supply company” they have dozens of rolls on hand all the time. They’re a good friendly local owned company and they’ll give you fair prices and a great staff. Will call it and you ca pick it up the same day. Tell em jonathan sent ya and they even may just give ya a discount. Your welcome.
Stuff works out side was 90 in my shed was 70 .
hi, can this same procedure reflect/block direct heat from the sunlight?
Yes
Does it need an air gap?
Yes, 3/4", accomplished by strapping or furring or how you build out the wall.
Or use kingspan with the correct depth
Why are you installing a vapor barrier in a basement? I'm pretty sure that'd against building code and prone to start rot and mold.
This depends on the location actually. In some states the location goes through very different seasons from cold / frozen to seeping / wet to dry and breathing. While other locations only go through cold / frozen to wet. In such locations a vapor barrier is advised. Not only that if you have outside treatment to the wall a vapor barrier might also be suggested to keep the inner wall away from both climates.
Hecket I agree with Hecket. Location determines building practices. This is why local codes supercede national codes.
Can it be put on sheetrock ?
No, hence the furring strips. You do not want the foil insulation against the sheetrock because it will suck in the heat (or cold) and transfer to the other side.
This product looks safer when directly under the sheetrock or wall treament ~!
In finished areas this is where it would be installed. For unfinished areas the insulation facing the exterior is commonplace, especially in barns for instance.
In finished areas it would be, however for unfinished spaces this application is fine. This is the same way it would be installed in metal out buildings and barns.
ladies and gentlemen...you are looking at about $140-180 just for that one wall of foil barrier. Plastic barrier is only about $10-15 dollars for that wall.. LOL budget is the new trend. Ill stick with the plastic rolls
Plastic rolls ? That wouldn’t reflect any of the radiant heat which this is designed for , this also didn’t say you have to have a 1/2” - 3/4” air gap as well. So no plastic would not work ,
Stop spreading wrong info on the internet to sound like you know what your doing .
his wife is gonna get mad at him cause hes using the kitchen stool jajaja
Good luck with all the nail heads that will be popped out in about a year.
I don't get it. Why would I ad R-4 to finished wall with all that extra work? I don't get it,..You are not gonna feel the difference in a basement. Not to mention how you messed with the vapor barrier.