Thank you. I am so tired of watching guys who are in love with the sound of their own voice but don't have a clue about what they are doing or why. Your video is the best I've seen so far.
I just did the exact same conversion to an MTD snowblower (looks to be identical to your craftsman) using this video as the primary source of info. Thanks a ton for posting it, massively helpful.
I followed this entire video for my MTD yard machine snowblower engine swap, I had to use the Northern Tool Ironton engine but it works the same. I even changed and re-welded the drive system around like you did. THANKS!!!!
Also the 28in drive belt is extremely tight like he said, I recommend loosening the motor and tilting it forward to get the belt over the pulley. I did it this way and it went right on with no issue. Thanks again!!
Thank you for this! Your camera work - especially on the closeups - was completely clear and therefore hugely helpful. Your descriptions of what you're doing, your showing part numbers, your careful detailing of what needs to be done and how you're doing it - all of it was exactly what a "how to" video _should_ be. My blower happens to have a different brand name on it, but it's exactly the same machine, so again - THANK YOU for an excellent video! (I've subscribed... but it's November and I see you haven't posted anything since last February - hope all is well?)
great video.. i dont need to switch the gear over, my engine was single shaft. you should have put some anti seize on the shaft before the pullies just in case you need to remove. i watched other videos where people try to remove the old pullies... faster to buy new ones... i also bought mine at electric motor warehouse.
Most problems with snow blowers and other small yard equipment engines can be tracked to FUEL delivery problems. Leaving gasoline in the tank when not being frequently used is the worst thing anyone can do to any small engine. Only use Fresh fuel not more than 6 weeks old. Old fuel left in small engines gums up and clogs carburetor jets. Drain your snow blower fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls out for the off-season. Same is true for lawn mowers, chain saws etc. Never store any small engine with fuel in the tank and carb.
I have a craftsman 22 inch I bought in 84'. It still has the original 5 hp Tecumseh engine on it. I have plowed up to 12" deep snows with it and it throws it just fine. So I dont know why yours wouldnt. Im sure mine wont last forever, so am considering the HF 212 or 224 replacement for it when the time comes. Still trying to find replacement skid shoes for it and a scraper bar. Dont think I ever will, and will have to adapt some other parts to replace those.
I'm in the middle of doing this swap.. Except I'm using an Low hour 9 h.p. Subaru Ex27 Generator engine. I modified the tapered crankshaft, to 7/8 inch diameter. I also did a couple mods to the impeller. I'll have to drill new holes in the housing to mount the engine, and get new belts. But the extra power will be nice for throwing snow a couple hundred feet..😂😂🍻🍻 I am going to lose my my lights, do to new engine not having a lighting coil. Maybe just run them off a battery..
how do you get the timing right when you mark the back of the bolt with the sharpie? If you put in Forward 5, or reverse 2, you end up with very different marks with the sharpie. What speed on the selector correlates with what position of the contact wheel once it's reversed?
When doing the engine break in, would it be better to not have the belts rubbing on the pulley even though they aren’t engaged? Seems like 3 hours of rubbing on one spot might weaken the belt.
The distance between the engine, and the pulley does not matter with this engine swap, because the dimensions of the two engines could very easily be different. What does matter is that the belts line up from the pulley to the tensioner and the respective lower pulleys. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!! I know this video is 3 years old, but to make it easier to remember what your new shift pattern is, get some vinyl stickers from the hardware store, and relabel the shifter positioning slots. Is it possible to transfer the electric starter from the original engine onto the new one??
Thank you for the very detailed video. I haven't found a video for my exact engine but I'm sure I'll figure it out. I have a Troy-Bilt 5524 (5.5hp 24") snowblower. It has a 1/4" belt and a 3/8" belt, hopefully my pulley directly swaps over.
Wondering if you replaced your 5524 5.5hp Tecumseh with the Predator and how it worked out. Hope you could fit that belt shroud over the pulleys afterwards. I’m about to try the same upgrade. Thanks
Jack stands aren't needed at all, you can flip the entire machine onto the front bucket. It's designed and meant to be done like that for servicing from the factory... For any brand snow blower. Just so you don't go out buying jack stands for no reason, save yourself some money and get engine oil that's better then fram
No thread lock on self locking nuts. The head of the bolt on the engine mounting should be on top with a washer, nuts on the bottom. Otherwise, great video. Good job researching the pulleys and their stock numbers...
Nice video. The shift lever is reversed because the camshaft turns the opposite of the crankshaft. I'd make more knotches and block the middle where 1st and reverse 1 is.
Threading engine mounting holes on the engine block seems to be an MTD thing. Older machines built by Murray sometimes have the chassis holes threaded.
Hey Greg, I have a craftsman snowthrower 5.0 horse power, 24 inch two stage wheel drive, model # 247.886640. What model do you have depicted in the video? My motor seized up, I need to replace it ASAP! Thanks again!
I know it's a 5 horse 24 inch craftsman from around 2000-2005ish I scraped of the machine info when I painted it years ago just measure the engine mounting bolt spacing most of the 5 hp machines are the same
Will this work the same and same parts if using the Predator 420cc? I have the MTD 10/26 Steerable Track Drive Snow Blower with the 317e762f013 Engine 10HP Motor.
I followed this guide and did the swap. Couple comments. On my MTD snowblower the 2" recommend bolts are too long. 1.5" was just right. I couldn't get the 28" belt on. I used a 29" by taking the shoulder/pivot bolt out of the tentioner and replacing with a regular bolt and washer. I pushed the idler against the back of the belt and snugged the bolt holding the tentioner in place. So far so good and the belt has stayed tight. I didn't mess with flipping the transmission linkage and so far I'm satisfied with the 2 forward speeds. I can't believe the difference in the way my snowblower works with the new engine. Thanks for the video and detailed instructions. I have the same spinning bolt on my carb linkage. Is it supposed to be that way? Thanks.
i also have an mtd and just did the swap today. did you replace the 35" belt too? i had a hard time getting that one to work right. I also went with the 29" belt for ease of installation because i figured drive function load wouldnt be that crucial. I'm considering cutting the shifter bracket out and flipping it over and welding it back in. just because.
@@joshuaferryman6520 I just used the original belt on the auger. It went on ok and seems to work good. The belt for the wheels slipped bad on mine with the 29" belt until I improvised the tentioner.
@@chipdoolittle5908 I'm doing mine now. Haven't gotten to the belts yet. What size pulley did you use for the wheel drive? What modification did you need to perform for the tensioner to work? Thank you
I had my buddy do this for me and unfortunately he must have done something wrong. I only have one reverses gear and the forward gears are not so hot. I pull the leaver to go while in 5th gear and it just stands still and will eventually start moving, but takes a while. the other gears aren't any better... Of course out of all the positive comments I have to be the one with a buddy that fucks it up/
@@JFRGSDFAN1 I've used the converted snowblower 4-5 times now (Iowa) and I'm very satisfied with the 2 forward speeds. For deep snow, the slower speed works great as the auger and shoot can only handle so much snow so fast. For clearing 2-3 inches, the faster speed is a little slow. I might use 3rd if I had it but I don't find it to be a problem. I don't think I ever used 4th or 5th speeds before when I did have them except maybe when walking it back to the garage. For me, it is definitely not worth the hassle of taking it all apart and modifying.
I am didn't touch the transmission and bought a 28" belt but ended up taking it back to exchange for a 29". If I had the right belt, I'd have completed the project in about an hour but like I said I didn't touch the transmission linkage.
ya, it's so much easier these days with the chinese engines. that's why briggs files for bankruptcy 6 months ago. nobody wants to use their shit anymore and neither do I. SO glad President Biden is in office now. We should be seeing a lot more and better products from China very soon at much lower prices.
That’s a shame you didn’t get that Tecumseh running i’ve been working on things like this for 60 years and I can get that motor running nice and smooth you shouldn’t have to change an engine out of it’s not blown up you just messed up with the wrong oil in it supposed to put 5W 30 in it
Thank you. I am so tired of watching guys who are in love with the sound of their own voice but don't have a clue about what they are doing or why. Your video is the best I've seen so far.
Going to do this on my Murray, mostly the same but the engine uses one pulley so should be a little simpler. Thanks for sharing!
Greg Baer I can't thank you enough!!! Awesome delivery on the details.
Glad it helped!!
I just did the exact same conversion to an MTD snowblower (looks to be identical to your craftsman) using this video as the primary source of info. Thanks a ton for posting it, massively helpful.
I followed this entire video for my MTD yard machine snowblower engine swap, I had to use the Northern Tool Ironton engine but it works the same. I even changed and re-welded the drive system around like you did.
THANKS!!!!
Also the 28in drive belt is extremely tight like he said, I recommend loosening the motor and tilting it forward to get the belt over the pulley. I did it this way and it went right on with no issue.
Thanks again!!
You answered a problem with removing the pulley. I had forgotten about using a wheel puller. Your great, Thank you. stay safe.
Thank you for this! Your camera work - especially on the closeups - was completely clear and therefore hugely helpful. Your descriptions of what you're doing, your showing part numbers, your careful detailing of what needs to be done and how you're doing it - all of it was exactly what a "how to" video _should_ be.
My blower happens to have a different brand name on it, but it's exactly the same machine, so again - THANK YOU for an excellent video!
(I've subscribed... but it's November and I see you haven't posted anything since last February - hope all is well?)
great video.. i dont need to switch the gear over, my engine was single shaft. you should have put some anti seize on the shaft before the pullies just in case you need to remove. i watched other videos where people try to remove the old pullies... faster to buy new ones... i also bought mine at electric motor warehouse.
Thank you ! Great idea we did that with ares and can’t wait to use it !!
Black out the labeled speeds, and you can get small vinyl letter to put over the speed label. Just an idea..
Most problems with snow blowers and other small yard equipment engines can be tracked to FUEL delivery problems. Leaving gasoline in the tank when not being frequently used is the worst thing anyone can do to any small engine. Only use Fresh fuel not more than 6 weeks old. Old fuel left in small engines gums up and clogs carburetor jets. Drain your snow blower fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls out for the off-season. Same is true for lawn mowers, chain saws etc. Never store any small engine with fuel in the tank and carb.
I have a craftsman 22 inch I bought in 84'. It still has the original 5 hp Tecumseh engine on it. I have plowed up to 12" deep snows with it and it throws it just fine. So I dont know why yours wouldnt. Im sure mine wont last forever, so am considering the HF 212 or 224 replacement for it when the time comes. Still trying to find replacement skid shoes for it and a scraper bar. Dont think I ever will, and will have to adapt some other parts to replace those.
I'm in the middle of doing this swap.. Except I'm using an Low hour 9 h.p. Subaru Ex27 Generator engine. I modified the tapered crankshaft, to 7/8 inch diameter. I also did a couple mods to the impeller. I'll have to drill new holes in the housing to mount the engine, and get new belts. But the extra power will be nice for throwing snow a couple hundred feet..😂😂🍻🍻
I am going to lose my my lights, do to new engine not having a lighting coil. Maybe just run them off a battery..
Why not cut out the gear selector plate with the notches ...flip it over and weld it back in OR grind new slots??????????
That shifter bracket is an easy fix.... Flip it over.... You won't have letters but you can make your own
how do you get the timing right when you mark the back of the bolt with the sharpie? If you put in Forward 5, or reverse 2, you end up with very different marks with the sharpie. What speed on the selector correlates with what position of the contact wheel once it's reversed?
When doing the engine break in, would it be better to not have the belts rubbing on the pulley even though they aren’t engaged? Seems like 3 hours of rubbing on one spot might weaken the belt.
The distance between the engine, and the pulley does not matter with this engine swap, because the dimensions of the two engines could very easily be different. What does matter is that the belts line up from the pulley to the tensioner and the respective lower pulleys. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!! I know this video is 3 years old, but to make it easier to remember what your new shift pattern is, get some vinyl stickers from the hardware store, and relabel the shifter positioning slots. Is it possible to transfer the electric starter from the original engine onto the new one??
Thank you for the very detailed video. I haven't found a video for my exact engine but I'm sure I'll figure it out. I have a Troy-Bilt 5524 (5.5hp 24") snowblower. It has a 1/4" belt and a 3/8" belt, hopefully my pulley directly swaps over.
I would like to think that your 1/4 belt is worn out most likely started life as a 3/8
Wondering if you replaced your 5524 5.5hp Tecumseh with the Predator and how it worked out. Hope you could fit that belt shroud over the pulleys afterwards. I’m about to try the same upgrade. Thanks
@@paulc1856 It was successful and has been working great ever since. Good luck!
Your video was a great help in replacing my old Tecumseh engine. Thank you sir
Jack stands aren't needed at all, you can flip the entire machine onto the front bucket. It's designed and meant to be done like that for servicing from the factory... For any brand snow blower. Just so you don't go out buying jack stands for no reason, save yourself some money and get engine oil that's better then fram
No thread lock on self locking nuts. The head of the bolt on the engine mounting should be on top with a washer, nuts on the bottom. Otherwise, great video. Good job researching the pulleys and their stock numbers...
Very cool doin mine this wknd
Nice video.
The shift lever is reversed because the camshaft turns the opposite of the crankshaft. I'd make more knotches and block the middle where 1st and reverse 1 is.
Very thorough, thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I've got the same blower so this was good.
Smart A+ ...new engine , bolt spin over governor !!! smile ...
just did this myself thanks for this video! i ended up with 3 reverse and 4 forwards however lol...
Nice Work!! Thank You
Threading engine mounting holes on the engine block seems to be an MTD thing. Older machines built by Murray sometimes have the chassis holes threaded.
If you only have one speed forward then i think imust reverse the drive as U can,t throw snow going only backward - Thanks Greg .
Great video!!
FUCK YEAH!!! GREAT MUSIC VIDEO!
What is the size for the drive him the other pulls
Please lower background music. Hard to hear you over it when your talking
Hey Greg,
I have a craftsman snowthrower 5.0 horse power, 24 inch two stage wheel drive, model # 247.886640. What model do you have depicted in the video? My motor seized up, I need to replace it ASAP! Thanks again!
I know it's a 5 horse 24 inch craftsman from around 2000-2005ish I scraped of the machine info when I painted it years ago just measure the engine mounting bolt spacing most of the 5 hp machines are the same
Will this work the same and same parts if using the Predator 420cc?
I have the MTD 10/26 Steerable Track Drive Snow Blower with the 317e762f013 Engine 10HP Motor.
The 420cc might have a larger shaft and different mounting points I've got no experience with it personally
Wher do you buy the pulleys
I followed this guide and did the swap. Couple comments.
On my MTD snowblower the 2" recommend bolts are too long. 1.5" was just right.
I couldn't get the 28" belt on. I used a 29" by taking the shoulder/pivot bolt out of the tentioner and replacing with a regular bolt and washer. I pushed the idler against the back of the belt and snugged the bolt holding the tentioner in place. So far so good and the belt has stayed tight. I didn't mess with flipping the transmission linkage and so far I'm satisfied with the 2 forward speeds. I can't believe the difference in the way my snowblower works with the new engine. Thanks for the video and detailed instructions. I have the same spinning bolt on my carb linkage. Is it supposed to be that way? Thanks.
i also have an mtd and just did the swap today. did you replace the 35" belt too? i had a hard time getting that one to work right. I also went with the 29" belt for ease of installation because i figured drive function load wouldnt be that crucial. I'm considering cutting the shifter bracket out and flipping it over and welding it back in. just because.
@@joshuaferryman6520
I just used the original belt on the auger. It went on ok and seems to work good. The belt for the wheels slipped bad on mine with the 29" belt until I improvised the tentioner.
@@chipdoolittle5908 I'm doing mine now. Haven't gotten to the belts yet. What size pulley did you use for the wheel drive? What modification did you need to perform for the tensioner to work? Thank you
I had my buddy do this for me and unfortunately he must have done something wrong. I only have one reverses gear and the forward gears are not so hot. I pull the leaver to go while in 5th gear and it just stands still and will eventually start moving, but takes a while. the other gears aren't any better... Of course out of all the positive comments I have to be the one with a buddy that fucks it up/
Did you ever get the snowblower working correctly??
What it you did not touch the gearbox and just did the motor swap? How would it shift then?
No gear box.
I did the swap but didn't flip the transmission linkage. You end up with 2 forward speeds. So far I'm very satisfied with just having the 2 speeds.
@@chipdoolittle5908 how fast are the two speeds? I don't feel like taking it apart with snow falling lol
@@JFRGSDFAN1
I've used the converted snowblower 4-5 times now (Iowa) and I'm very satisfied with the 2 forward speeds.
For deep snow, the slower speed works great as the auger and shoot can only handle so much snow so fast. For clearing 2-3 inches, the faster speed is a little slow. I might use 3rd if I had it but I don't find it to be a problem. I don't think I ever used 4th or 5th speeds before when I did have them except maybe when walking it back to the garage. For me, it is definitely not worth the hassle of taking it all apart and modifying.
@@chipdoolittle5908 Good to hear! Thank you! 👍🏻
Greg, where did you get the new pulleys? Can you post a link?
I've got everything linked in the description for ya! Good luck on your swap!
@@GregBaervids Thanks man! That will be a spring project for sure!
@@GregBaervids28 inch belt didn't fit mine I tried 29 too I had to go 30". What a headache!!
"and of course, lift with your back"? lol 10:43
Lol. Thats what I was 🤔
This particular Craftsman snowblowers the chute hole diameter are 3 inches square. bad engineering by craftsman..
WWWWWWWWWWATS UP GUYS!!!!! YO YO YO!!!!
A single shaft engine swap takes 20 min
Sure it does. It took me 20 minutes to gather my tools.
@@idocmirk I swapped mine in 20 min . I grabbed my scocket set took 30 seconds
I am didn't touch the transmission and bought a 28" belt but ended up taking it back to exchange for a 29". If I had the right belt, I'd have completed the project in about an hour but like I said I didn't touch the transmission linkage.
ya, it's so much easier these days with the chinese engines. that's why briggs files for bankruptcy 6 months ago. nobody wants to use their shit anymore and neither do I. SO glad President Biden is in office now. We should be seeing a lot more and better products from China very soon at much lower prices.
That’s a shame you didn’t get that Tecumseh running i’ve been working on things like this for 60 years and I can get that motor running nice and smooth you shouldn’t have to change an engine out of it’s not blown up you just messed up with the wrong oil in it supposed to put 5W 30 in it