Question for ya: I'm concerned that the battery adapter would get snowed on and water would damage or short circuit the connection. What about mounting it upside down and or making some rubber flap to protect it from that? I was even considering using an outside electrical outlet cover. Your thoughts please. Thanks for this upload...I'm doing it soon.
@@TiroxSnapJack I have not had any problem with short circuiting, etc, but if it is snowing heavily while using this, the battery and the connector will definitely collect snow, etc. If I were doing this again, I'd possibly mount the battery under the upper shroud, or as you suggest add a flap or cover of some kind. I'd love to hear what you come up with!
@@AmplifyDIY I will try and remember to update you. I found a barn find Honda HS80 very spotless and minimal use for a 30+ year old machine. I love these Hondas. Adding even a chute discharge control. ordered all the components from your excellent video. now waiting for arrival an eventual assembly. Yes a cover or underside is needed 4 sure. thanks again for the instructions. really thanks.
@@AmplifyDIY Ok I've been busy. decided a small yellow plastic box will fit all my components and other than the right side where I cut a rectangular hole just big enough to slide my battery into and room for my fingers in a glove. Mounted under the dashplate. The older Honda has a tilted metal dashplate and I'm pretty sure no snow will reach the inner wiring /connections. Now onto the accessory wiring... so from the converter How do I run the 4 lights...I mean, is it a combo of 2 double wire pigtails- power and ground coming from the converter? And going out to the 2 marker and 2 spot lights? I have always been afraid of working with wiring. from house to motorcycle....you have pushed me into it with something like a snowblower. For that I thank you. sorry for the questions. I wish I could share pictures.
Congratulations! Probably one of the best how-to videos on YT. As a mature engineer, you were clear and concise, and did a great job. Thank you. Not only will I do this to my snowblower, I'm going to make a charger for my iPhone using my Milwaukee M18 batteries.
Excellent tutorial in every way: Easy to see, easy to understand, and this retired teacher of English and public speaking is impressed with your clear and pleasant speaking voice -- in addition to your DIY prowess! Thanks for posting this!
Good video, most of those led pods are variable voltage and will usually accept input voltages of 9v-36v, so no need to step down the voltage, which only shortens how long the battery will last.
Hi Zack - some are able to handle a range, some are not. In this video I was trying to show a circuit that would be useful no matter which lighting you went with, as nearly all accessory lighting runs happily on 12V. If you are certain the lighting you choose can run directly on the battery voltage, you can for sure omit the step-down converter. Thanks for watching!
Great project! I’ve been considering something similar. Excellent, simple instructions, logical process sequence, you made what might seem daunting into a very approachable job. Great idea using the tool battery! A couple of soldering recommendations: 1) Always make a strong mechanical connection first, before solder (e.g. crimp the spade vs. using solder to fill the space), 2) Heat the joint with the iron, flow the solder into the joint, not into the iron. (Source: US Navy Electronics Technician training.)
Very nice and handy video. Thank you! Two suggestions: 1. Leave the nut on the bolt and snug it up to the top this way when you cut the bolt, as you remove the nut the nut acts as a chaser and will help clean the threads of the bolt that has been cut by the hacksaw. 2. I would put some semi-permanent thread sealant on the threads of the bolt to help protect the nut from loosening when you have snow blower vibration even though you are using a lock washer on the bolt....as simple belt and suspenders approach when dealing with severe vibration.
I’ve got that exact blower and would like to add lights to it. Thanks for a great video. I suggest adding a quick disconnect (more spades) where the two halves of the machine come apart, so that when it’s time for serious machine maintenance you don’t have to remove any wiring.
I would re mount that battery to under the shroud on the handle. A lot of times I have snow accumulated on my blower when I’m done and I’d imagine it would get that battery nice and wet.
Hi B Mac - yes, the battery does get a bit wet, but the adapter seals really well, and when I pull the battery off the mount the contacts are always dry. However, if I were doing it again, I may find a way to mount it in a more protected area as you suggest. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a well-made tutorial on this subject. Not having to use rectifiers and capacitors makes it much easier without having to worry about possibly damaging the electronics of the snowblower. I have plenty of 20v Hart batteries with the chargers, so I just modified one of the chargers instead of buying an adapter.
my snow blower has a tiny head light. i recently noticed my off road lights sitting next to it on the work bench and had the idea to mount it on the machine. but those puddle lights are an awesome addition!
Finally, a good step by step guide that doesn't require buying and installing a stator. Glad I watched too. I thought about this method before but forgot about the difference in voltages I'd have to figure out.
Hey George - I'm glad you liked the video. Best of luck with getting lights on your blower. I'm happy to answer any questions that come up along the way for you. Good luck!
I just want to say, I did this to my VERY BASIC 2-stage blower, and my god, I’m so excited to use it. I learned so much from your video and made it happen, it looks great and I’m so happy. I had no idea those tool battery adapters existed, and the step down converter was super cheap. You rock!!!!
Hey, thanks so much! I'm really glad to hear that you were able to complete the project and that you're happy with the result. Mine are still going strong a couple of years later and I love them! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this simple walkthrough! You saved me a ton of trial and error, and I didn't even know those battery adapters were an option. A few things are different now, and a little easier. The 20v DeWalt adapter has an incorporated switch and an inline fuse for the same price. Also, the lights you linked are specced from 12-30v. No longer a need for a separate switch, fuse, or the step-down converter. It's now a straight shot from the battery adapter to the voltmeter, to the lights. Thank you again!
Great to hear some things are simplified! When I did this project, the lights specifically said they would only accept 12V... not needing the stepdown converter simplifies a lot, and having switch + fuse in the battery adapter is also a huge win. Thanks for the update, and for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY to add to that you can buy Low voltage Cut off devices pretty cheap. these are usually used on rc cars that do not have the logit built in to the electronics. im doing the same project myself, just using an old dewalt impact driver that i cut in half. in fact a broken drill would be even better and just use the built in trigger lock. the other thiing i saw is when cutting bolts leaving a nut on the bolt before cutting it allows you to chase the threads after putting that chamfer on the end
I know you made this video 2 years ago. I just found it and it helped me out GREATLY. Just waiting for the receptacle and and will be operations tomorrow.
This concept has a 100 uses!!! I am going to build a portable power pack using your basic idea. I am heavily invested in the Craftsman 20v system so my plan is to make a system that can use any of my half dozen batteries and provide power to a USB for charging cell phones etc. I’ll add a small led light too for utility. Plan is to have a small enough box to take camping, fishing, in the toolbox etc or even in the shop as a backup. The expensive part is the battery, the rest is inexpensive stuff. Thanks for sharing. Edit: I looked for parts and well darn they make a snap on LED light with USB unit so I’ll just buy that but still lots of uses for your idea.
Great project and great video. I would move the voltmeter to the post switch position in the harness so it wouldn't present any drain on the battery when the system is turned off.
What a great idea and video. Very professionally done and enjoyable to watch and understand. I have a 25+ year old Simplicity 8hp snow blower that has a pretty poor amber light over the engine. I guess for the time is was better than nothing. For years I wanted to upgrade to something better but I knew the voltage coming off the stator was incompatible with a typical 12vt. DC light. I purchased from Amazon a slide in B&D battery adapter which came with an inline rocker switch and fuse (never knew these even existed), the voltage meter you recommended and a 7" 30watt LED light bar. The LED will work on DV from 9-24Volts so I skipped the DC 20-12vt. step down converter. As you described the installation was pretty easy and was accomplished in under an hour. With a fully charged 20volt battery I was able to get 2+ hours of light before I even came close to 17volts. Plenty of light to assist with my nighttime snow blowing operations. Thanks for the idea and description. When the 1st storm hits I might just wait till dark just so I can try it out. 😁
Hi interestingly enough I am in th same situation and assumed that I could just wire in the new LED light to replace the old amber light. Why is it that the existing electrical system won't work for this project. It's a real bummer.
Just installed lights on my 2410 troy bilt. Took me 6 hours to do the job correctly and professional. You have great instructions to do the job efficiently. Thank You !!!!!
This a great video, I personally use a weatherproof headlamp when I blow snow when it’s dark. If I was using my blower more commercially this would be perfect.
My blower has a light but it pulses the LED lights. That power tool battery was a great idea, as is the puddle lights. I’ll have to wire mine up before it snows here in PA.
I did something similar to a 2004 Murray Blizzard 2 stage SnowBlower a few years back. Use Lock tight on your bolt connections. Recently had one come loose and lost the screw hardware. Mine originally had a single halogen light running off of AC from the alternator on the motor. Using a bridge rectifier setup and some inline capacitors I installed them in a weather proof electrical box under the front control panel to protect the connections from the elements. An 18 watt LED pod light set similar to yours was a HUGE upgrade to the existing halogen one. I mounted them to either side of where the old light was. I do like the battery idea so you can turn the lights on without the engine running. I happen to run across your vid while doing research on switching my lawn tractor over from the dim halogen bulbs to an LED set up. Nice work By the way.
Fantastic results! My snowblower has a headlight thing between where you pointed out a factory light might be and where you actually installed your off-road lights. I have been considering switching the bulb to LED and adding a capacitor to deal with the flicker that even the incandescent bulb has been experiencing from day one, but this seems like a better option. I would have to put the headlights and puddle lights on their own switches because I like adding switches and if I don't need the puddle light, I can add some run time by turning them off. Great instructions and great video!
Great idea to put the puddle lights on their own switch - or even add another switch to turn on each headlight individually - if you are willing to compromise a bit of forward visibility for double the runtime. Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
I just wanted to thank you for uploading this video....I just added this set up to my Craftsman snow blower and I couldn't be more pleased. I used the Ridgid adapter because that's the line of power tools I use. So thanks again....excellent job!
Very good and clear instruction. On my machine your location of the lights would be problematic. In my area we frequently get 25+cm of snow ( 10"+). Our last storm dumped 44 cm. At the road we get high snow banks from the municipal plow. To clear this I drive the face of the blower into the bank and undercut the snow above the machine, then knock the snow bank down for further cleanup. As a result the lights would no doubt take a beating. I would make a bracket for the top of the auger cabinet to enable the lights to be located behind the face of the auger cabinet 8" or more to protect them. Great video!
Hey Don - you definitely get more snow than we typically do here. I like your idea of building some brackets to relocate the lights - that should work well for your application! I do recommend trying to elevate the lights a bit - maybe with a right-angle bracket? If you just move them straight back the auger cabinet will block the lower portion of the light throw, which may be annoying. A cheap option for brackets may be some shelf brackets from your local hardware store. Good luck!
Wow, I was interested in the title because my snowblower didn’t come with any lights and I heard that if they don’t come with them, they will not except any. Which you then confirmed in your video. So I was pleasantly surprised to see what you came up with. And like someone else commented, the way you present each project somehow gives a viewer like me the confidence to actually try doing it. I’m so glad I found your channel and I appreciate everything you share! Looking forward to the next project! Thank you!! 😎👍🏼
That was awesome 👌 easy to follow instructional video for anyone!! Nicely done and thank you. Got 3 snowblowers and 3 toro snow throwers between my fad/ brother and I (do t ask 😅). Thanks again
Nice job, great instructions. One question: when using eletric components, such as the spade connectors, why didn’t you use the insulated connectors vs the bare spade?
I liked the build and learned some tips. I’m going to try these on some markers lights I will be putting on my SUV in the spring. Two things which may be an improvement. A. A snow blower puts out a great deal of fine snow, which is only made worse on a windy day/night. This may cause a short in the battery. Some type of protection cover would be good. B. I would have run the black automotive protector from the lights to the T junction. There will be potentially snow and ice build up between the lights so this just provides more structure. Excellent video!!
This video did NOT address my issue. I already did this mod to my walk-behind blower so now I'm installing lights to my tractor snowblower so your instruction doesn't apply. HOWEVER! - the opening for this video had me crackin up and, simply out of respect, I feel I MUST like and sub. That opening was pure talent my friend! I looked over your videos and noticed I've previously seen your speaker video and I'm surprised I didn't sub back then. Either way, I'm glad I found this video / channel. And then your Vice Grip Garage reference sealed the deal - lol. Looks like a guy will be bingeing a fellers videos over the next few hours - lol. Keep em comin.
Thank you. This will be my next project. Several years ago, I was nearly hit by a car while cleaning my driveway. I will add a small blue or amber strobe light to protect me from inattentive drivers.
Nice video, popped up as a "play next" so I watched it. One piece of advice I'd give you going forward, grab a tube of silicone. Once you solder the terminals or butt connect wires, add silicone and heat shrink over it while still wet. Been doing this for 20+ years in auto/trucking for wiring. The silicone keeps the wires from turning green over the long term, especially when heatshrinking multiple wires at once (seals the gaps from moisture). Hope it helps :)
Excellent video! I did both my Ariens Deluxe and Ariens Platinum the same way using my Milwaukee Batteries and Recepticle from Amazon. A couple minor things to note, make sure you wire the volt meter in parallel and directly after the battery to ensure you are reading the battery voltage and not after the DC Converter wich will continue reading 12 volts past the the battery’s low limit. Secondly, those particular Paddle Lights from Amazon are great but make note that the white wire on them is ground and the black wire is power. I am very impressed with the amount of light I now have during our dark hours in winter. Thanks again for a great tutorial!
Good points on the placement of the volt meter and the mention about the lights... it's a good idea to always test polarity on lights like this as they are sometimes wired in ... interesting ways. :)
Awesome build and great attention to detail. I've been doing similar things with my dewalt batteries lately (soldering station, Bluetooth radio, battery adapter for old porter cable tools). The only downside is that I have been unable to find a low voltage protector that doesn't keep draining the battery.
Amazon has a dewalt or Milwalkee battery adapter with a on off switch and inline fuse. And the output is 20vdc. If your battery has a power meter . You wont need a meter either . The main led lights here are good for 9vdc to 30vdc but the puddle lights are only 12vdc.
Fantastic! I picked up a free snowblower this week. It has a sticker saying a light kit can't be installed to the motor. I will be doing this modification. Thanks so much. Cheers.
Just found your Video and it honestly was one of the best instruction videos that I’ve watched. I have a 2012 Honda HS1132 track driven blower. It has a round light that unfortunately isn’t very bright. I love your corded battery idea and will be doing something similar. Thank you
This is absolutely a wonderful instructional video! Thank you for offering your time and sharing it with us. Wonder if yuh have a drawing of electrical circuit and how are parts connected. I sometimes had a hard time following which wires went where in the video. Appreciate it.
Hi Shahryar - in fact, I DO have a circuit drawing: amplifydiy.com/shared/SnowblowerHeadlightSchematic.jpg - let me know if you have any other questions. I'll be glad to try to help. Thanks for watching!
Hello @@AmplifyDIY , and thank you for your great assistance. I watched the video a few times to make sure of the wiring plan and got it on the first try! Only thing was my toggle switch does not turn red when it is off, just to show there is current in it. But no worries. I used one license plate light unit for my puddle light. It is OK, but will rewire it to place a second one. I am happy to share my pictures if you like. You are a terrific instructor on this medium. Keep it up please. Thank you again sir.
@@shahryaroliai6084 I'm so glad you got it working on the first try! That's great! I'd love to see some pictures if you don't mind sending via email: amplifydiy (at) gmail (dot) com. Thanks!
Great idea! My snow blower did come with a headlight, but it was as bright as a candle. Instead, I just ordered an LED to replace the incandescent lamp.
Your presentation is top notch! You could make training videos of everything!! This project, however, Is one I have to think about. Adding up the list of supplies needed totals over $100 dollars in parts plus additional tools (soldering iron, drill) and labor. All to get some light? Maybe save $100 and snow-blow during the day? You are the best teacher!!!
I agree - the parts etc do add up. In my case, I rarely am home from work in time to get to clearing snow during daylight hours... so I needed a solution. Blowers with lights built in cost several hundred more than this model. Also, keep in mind that if you have to buy tools for this (or any job) they'll be on hand for the next project, so I consider that an investment. In my case, this was the cheapest way to get to a superior solution over something like wearing a headlamp, etc. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! I followed along nicely until you got to the puddle light and LED light wiring, tying it all in. You sped the video up in that area and I wasn't able to see exactly how you did it. Do you just pig tail them all in (positives to the positives/negatives to the negatives), soldering and heat shrinking the connections? You mentioned you added a bunch of extra spade connectors but I don't see how all the spade connectors would connect to the wiring.
Yes, I soldered all the negatives together, and all the positives together, adding spade connectors where it made sense so I could isolate and replace components in the future if needed - i.e., the leads out to the lights are not directly soldered to the switch - there is a spade connector there so I can swap the switch or swap the lights in the future if needed. Apologies that the video was not clear - I'll keep that in mind for future projects. Thanks for watching!
A few suggestion. A bigger battery of course will last longer. Another is weather pack connections. Since you'll be getting it wet the plugs will be a better protection than just spade connectors. Plus if you need to swap lights or anything you just unplug them. Harbor Freight has some of these. I do a lot of automotive wiring and use these types of plugs
I just did this to my snowblower not for lights but for heated grips. One thing I suggest is mount the battery under the cowl. As, I just ran my blower last week and my entire cowl was covered with snow because it was snowing while i ran it and the overspray from a wind blew blown snow onto it too. You run the risk of gettting melted snow into the battery and espeically on the terminals based on the way you have it. Also, I did not run a voltmeter, but I ran the same switch you have directly off the 18V battery. My worry is the light may burn out prematurely due to the higher voltage, but I'll see. One benefit is to cut the power to the 12V converter and therefore leave the battery mounted to the system sometimes. If the light burns out that is fine, I will just add in a panel light if that happens. I'm running Ryobi batteries that have auto shutoff built into the pack, so I'm good without a voltage meter, but glad you added this for dewalt and others should too if the battery doesn't have the auto shutoff built into it.
I'm curious about burn out also. It shouldn't cuz they're rated to 36v. Ard they brighter when run on higher voltage? Been wondering cuz thinking of a voltage amplifier to bring auto 12v system up higher for offroad uses.
Nice addition to the snowblower. My Craftsman 26” also does not have the rectifier needed to add lights. Seeing this video has prompted me to pursue using my dormant 12 volt motorcycle battery, might just as well get some use out of it while the thing is hibernating in the shed…it can sit on the trickle charger when not in use. Now to find a battery box mount! Also looking at adding an amber strobe or two for maximum attention.
Whenever you mount something onto an ABS plastic surface, you take the chance of the plastic cracking, especially with cold temperatures and vibration. I always use a "fender washer" to spread the stress over a larger area. Never have a singularly insulated wire in contact with a metallic surface. Smart move to use the plastic loom to protect the joint.
Just a perfect step by step classic YT tutorial. Thanks for all of this i'll defently look to do this. Also wondering if this could be extended to making heated handgrips
Looks great….. I actually have the same snowblower and I wanted to put lights on it. So I’m in the process of doing that now. Thank you for your input.
Painting/Drilling tip: Place painters tape over the hole prior to drilling, then you can spray directly with quick, moving bursts. Also helpful if you start with a pilot hole to reduce rough edges. Nice work!
Fantastic idea to use the batteries. I would have done only one thing different - knowing how wet the entire blower can get (and my face) when blowing powdery snow and it's breezy I would come up with a waterproof cover of some kind for the battery adapter. Don't want a short there.
Good idea - other viewers have suggested mounting the battery below the handlebar rather than on top - that would also help quite a bit. Thanks for watching!
I mean this in the nicest way possible…you’re a nerd and I’m here for it 😂. Very clear instructions and you did things the right way…very impressive. I was thinking about a similar project for my snowblower using drill batteries so you’ve convinced me. It takes me about an hour to clear my driveway so that’s perfect. It’s always dark by the time I get to it since I’m in Alaska and the sun goes down at 4 in the peak snow blowing season lol. Now take my like and sub! Oh, and your voice delivery reminds me of the car shows I used to watch growing up like horsepower TV, etc.
Nice, it will provide a large flood of light. I was just going to mount a couple of LED bicycle headlights to each of the handle bar uprights on my 2014 Huskee snowblower.
Looks great! I 3D printed a mount to hold a Husky floodlight (that runs off of 6 AA batteries) mounted in the middle of the handlebars. It works, but you're right. The chute blocks the light. I didn't make my mount robust enough and it broke, so I'm thinking I'm going your route. I have Milwaukee M12 batteries, so that should simplify my wiring. I'd love to hear how this has held up and any modifications you've made or wish you'd done differently. I''m thinking of adding a third puddle light to shine on the gas cap, because it can be hard to see if you're about to overfill the tank.
This has held up great! I have not made any modifications, but if I were to do this again I'd likely flip the battery holder to be mounted under the handle bars rather than on top... better protection from snow build-up there.
@@AmplifyDIYI designed some mounts for the 3/4” lights and have two aimed at my feet and one at the gas cap. 3D printed them using PETG. Hopefully they hold up well. Tagged you in the Instagram post.
This gave me an idea instead of lights (I use my blower during the daylight hours so I never really needed lights) I'm going to install grip heaters (made for snowmobiles) under the grips and use my M18 Milwaukee battery to power them. I bought an extra higher output (9 amp hour) battery so it should last for many hours without running down. I also installed the volt meter to keep track of the battery power. So nice having warm hands while blowing snow!
Only thing I would have done differently is put the volt meter after the switch so it would turn off with the lights. In case you forget to take the battery out it wouldn't get drained. Great video though. Might try this with the riding lawnmower. Lol
I’ve considered adding lights to my late 80’s JD 524 2 stage. I replaced the weak original 5hp Tecumseh with a 7hp electric start Tecumseh Snow King engine from Northern Tool around 2007. I don’t know if the newer engine has a generator for lights. I’ve thought if I could run a belt up to a GM 1 wire alternator that could power lights but belts need a shield from blowing snow or else they will slip. 2 stage snowblowers have a 2 groove stepped pulley on the engine crankshaft and to run a 3rd belt would need a 3rd pulley and I’m not sure how to do that. Another thought was to use a Snapper rubber drive disc to rub against one of the belts on the pulley but then again you would have to modify the belt shield to keep the snow off of it. So in the end your battery power setup looks less complicated.
Great job! I found the battery adapter with built in switch. Also the main LED lights don't need the voltage reducer as they can take 8-30 volts. Also battery has built in charge gauge. I can get this done for under $30
Amazing work! What a great idea and masterful approach for adding lighting to your snowblower. Provided me with lots of ideas for other such implements that I use. Well done.
Great video, easy to follow and understand. The ideas are already rolling in my head and as soon as obtain a couple DC/DC converters my snowblower is getting an upgrade and the old snowmobile will finally have a working lights!
Enjoyable video. Just a few thoughts: 1) You reaally need to look into getting a 3D printer. Yes, I realize you are trying to make these videos accessible and doable by everybody, but 3D printed bracketry, tiedown points and housings would up the "factory" look. 2) You didn't need to split the headlight wires right in the middle. You could have connected to the right light first and then extended to the left light. But, it works just fine the way it is. 3) If you pick up a piece of 4"x4" square tube you could cut 2" wide slices and make some "roll bars" over the headlights to protect them from tree branches and other obstacles. Simply drill one hole in the center of one of the sides and run the headlight bolt through the same hole and bolt the square tube and headlight down all at the same time. Again, just my thoughts, This project is perfectly functional as is. Kudos!
Great job! I have the same snow thrower and had the same issue. I’ll be using this as a guide for my project. Thanks. Heated grips install for next vid?
Hmm! Heated grips! I hadn't thought of that ... but I'll bet I could find some that could just tie into my existing circuit for the lights. I wonder how much shorter the battery would run with a resistive heating element added. Some research is in order. Thanks!
Awesome video! Regarding under volting the battery, doesn’t the battery’s board circuitry prevent it from getting below its threshold which is why any power tool stops when the battery gets low?
Here's a demonstration of these lights in action after our first snow since getting them installed: th-cam.com/video/XWPyS9qDiac/w-d-xo.html
Question for ya: I'm concerned that the battery adapter would get snowed on and water would damage or short circuit the connection. What about mounting it upside down and or making some rubber flap to protect it from that? I was even considering using an outside electrical outlet cover. Your thoughts please. Thanks for this upload...I'm doing it soon.
@@TiroxSnapJack I have not had any problem with short circuiting, etc, but if it is snowing heavily while using this, the battery and the connector will definitely collect snow, etc. If I were doing this again, I'd possibly mount the battery under the upper shroud, or as you suggest add a flap or cover of some kind. I'd love to hear what you come up with!
@@AmplifyDIY I will try and remember to update you. I found a barn find Honda HS80 very spotless and minimal use for a 30+ year old machine. I love these Hondas. Adding even a chute discharge control. ordered all the components from your excellent video. now waiting for arrival an eventual assembly. Yes a cover or underside is needed 4 sure. thanks again for the instructions. really thanks.
@@AmplifyDIY Ok I've been busy. decided a small yellow plastic box will fit all my components and other than the right side where I cut a rectangular hole just big enough to slide my battery into and room for my fingers in a glove. Mounted under the dashplate. The older Honda has a tilted metal dashplate and I'm pretty sure no snow will reach the inner wiring /connections. Now onto the accessory wiring... so from the converter How do I run the 4 lights...I mean, is it a combo of 2 double wire pigtails- power and ground coming from the converter? And going out to the 2 marker and 2 spot lights? I have always been afraid of working with wiring. from house to motorcycle....you have pushed me into it with something like a snowblower. For that I thank you. sorry for the questions. I wish I could share pictures.
And hahaha I made the same mistake about adding the fuse...why isn't this working shit !! DOH !!
Congratulations! Probably one of the best how-to videos on YT. As a mature engineer, you were clear and concise, and did a great job. Thank you. Not only will I do this to my snowblower, I'm going to make a charger for my iPhone using my Milwaukee M18 batteries.
Leave the nut on next time you shorten a bolt. Removing the nut will help deburr it.
Thank you!!
really like your idea of using a battery you already have at home, with that adapter. Might have just given me a weekend project!!!
Excellent tutorial in every way: Easy to see, easy to understand, and this retired teacher of English and public speaking is impressed with your clear and pleasant speaking voice -- in addition to your DIY prowess! Thanks for posting this!
Wow - thank you very much, Steve!
Agreed probably one of the best I’ve seen, great job!
I agree. What a great video. Ty bro
This was easily one of the best, if not the best instructional video I have ever watched! And I have watched thousands of instructional videos.
Thank you so much! That really means a lot.
Good video, most of those led pods are variable voltage and will usually accept input voltages of 9v-36v, so no need to step down the voltage, which only shortens how long the battery will last.
Hi Zack - some are able to handle a range, some are not. In this video I was trying to show a circuit that would be useful no matter which lighting you went with, as nearly all accessory lighting runs happily on 12V. If you are certain the lighting you choose can run directly on the battery voltage, you can for sure omit the step-down converter. Thanks for watching!
Great tip to research the input voltage specs first.
Great project! I’ve been considering something similar. Excellent, simple instructions, logical process sequence, you made what might seem daunting into a very approachable job. Great idea using the tool battery!
A couple of soldering recommendations: 1) Always make a strong mechanical connection first, before solder (e.g. crimp the spade vs. using solder to fill the space), 2) Heat the joint with the iron, flow the solder into the joint, not into the iron. (Source: US Navy Electronics Technician training.)
Thank you for the tips, Michael!
Very nice and handy video. Thank you! Two suggestions: 1. Leave the nut on the bolt and snug it up to the top this way when you cut the bolt, as you remove the nut the nut acts as a chaser and will help clean the threads of the bolt that has been cut by the hacksaw. 2. I would put some semi-permanent thread sealant on the threads of the bolt to help protect the nut from loosening when you have snow blower vibration even though you are using a lock washer on the bolt....as simple belt and suspenders approach when dealing with severe vibration.
Great tips, Bill. Thank you!
Your blower didn't have a factory light. Mine does. So can I just splice my led's + & - into my factory light?
I’ve got that exact blower and would like to add lights to it. Thanks for a great video. I suggest adding a quick disconnect (more spades) where the two halves of the machine come apart, so that when it’s time for serious machine maintenance you don’t have to remove any wiring.
Great suggestion. Thank you!
I would re mount that battery to under the shroud on the handle. A lot of times I have snow accumulated on my blower when I’m done and I’d imagine it would get that battery nice and wet.
Hi B Mac - yes, the battery does get a bit wet, but the adapter seals really well, and when I pull the battery off the mount the contacts are always dry. However, if I were doing it again, I may find a way to mount it in a more protected area as you suggest. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a well-made tutorial on this subject. Not having to use rectifiers and capacitors makes it much easier without having to worry about possibly damaging the electronics of the snowblower.
I have plenty of 20v Hart batteries with the chargers, so I just modified one of the chargers instead of buying an adapter.
my snow blower has a tiny head light. i recently noticed my off road lights sitting next to it on the work bench and had the idea to mount it on the machine. but those puddle lights are an awesome addition!
I don’t have the greatest balance, so I like to have extra lighting to see where I’m walking. Thanks for watching!
Finally, a good step by step guide that doesn't require buying and installing a stator. Glad I watched too. I thought about this method before but forgot about the difference in voltages I'd have to figure out.
Hey George - I'm glad you liked the video. Best of luck with getting lights on your blower. I'm happy to answer any questions that come up along the way for you. Good luck!
I just want to say, I did this to my VERY BASIC 2-stage blower, and my god, I’m so excited to use it. I learned so much from your video and made it happen, it looks great and I’m so happy. I had no idea those tool battery adapters existed, and the step down converter was super cheap. You rock!!!!
Hey, thanks so much! I'm really glad to hear that you were able to complete the project and that you're happy with the result. Mine are still going strong a couple of years later and I love them! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this simple walkthrough! You saved me a ton of trial and error, and I didn't even know those battery adapters were an option. A few things are different now, and a little easier. The 20v DeWalt adapter has an incorporated switch and an inline fuse for the same price. Also, the lights you linked are specced from 12-30v. No longer a need for a separate switch, fuse, or the step-down converter. It's now a straight shot from the battery adapter to the voltmeter, to the lights. Thank you again!
Great to hear some things are simplified! When I did this project, the lights specifically said they would only accept 12V... not needing the stepdown converter simplifies a lot, and having switch + fuse in the battery adapter is also a huge win. Thanks for the update, and for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY to add to that you can buy Low voltage Cut off devices pretty cheap. these are usually used on rc cars that do not have the logit built in to the electronics. im doing the same project myself, just using an old dewalt impact driver that i cut in half. in fact a broken drill would be even better and just use the built in trigger lock. the other thiing i saw is when cutting bolts leaving a nut on the bolt before cutting it allows you to chase the threads after putting that chamfer on the end
I know you made this video 2 years ago. I just found it and it helped me out GREATLY. Just waiting for the receptacle and and will be operations tomorrow.
This concept has a 100 uses!!! I am going to build a portable power pack using your basic idea. I am heavily invested in the Craftsman 20v system so my plan is to make a system that can use any of my half dozen batteries and provide power to a USB for charging cell phones etc. I’ll add a small led light too for utility.
Plan is to have a small enough box to take camping, fishing, in the toolbox etc or even in the shop as a backup.
The expensive part is the battery, the rest is inexpensive stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Edit: I looked for parts and well darn they make a snap on LED light with USB unit so I’ll just buy that but still lots of uses for your idea.
Nice job. I wish u built my car or my house. That attention to detail is something most workers don't have time to do.
Thanks, I appreciate that!
Great project and great video. I would move the voltmeter to the post switch position in the harness so it wouldn't present any drain on the battery when the system is turned off.
Thanks for the feedback, and for watching!
Wow! Well done! Thank you for the detailed explanation of how to install lighting on a snow thrower. I’ll be doing this myself! Great job!
Good luck!
What a great idea and video. Very professionally done and enjoyable to watch and understand.
I have a 25+ year old Simplicity 8hp snow blower that has a pretty poor amber light over the engine. I guess for the time is was better than nothing. For years I wanted to upgrade to something better but I knew the voltage coming off the stator was incompatible with a typical 12vt. DC light.
I purchased from Amazon a slide in B&D battery adapter which came with an inline rocker switch and fuse (never knew these even existed), the voltage meter you recommended and a 7" 30watt LED light bar. The LED will work on DV from 9-24Volts so I skipped the DC 20-12vt. step down converter.
As you described the installation was pretty easy and was accomplished in under an hour. With a fully charged 20volt battery I was able to get 2+ hours of light before I even came close to 17volts. Plenty of light to assist with my nighttime snow blowing operations.
Thanks for the idea and description. When the 1st storm hits I might just wait till dark just so I can try it out. 😁
Nice work! Let it snow!
Hi interestingly enough I am in th same situation and assumed that I could just wire in the new LED light to replace the old amber light. Why is it that the existing electrical system won't work for this project. It's a real bummer.
Just installed lights on my 2410 troy bilt. Took me 6 hours to do the job correctly and professional. You have great instructions to do the job efficiently. Thank You !!!!!
Great job!
This a great video, I personally use a weatherproof headlamp when I blow snow when it’s dark. If I was using my blower more commercially this would be perfect.
My blower has a light but it pulses the LED lights. That power tool battery was a great idea, as is the puddle lights. I’ll have to wire mine up before it snows here in PA.
Great modification, and no particularly difficult or expensive to do! Will definitely do something similar on my unit this Winter.
Good luck!
I have the same machine. So this is exactly what I've been looking for! Excellent tutorial! Thanks much!
Awesome, Shongo! Good luck with your setup!
Thanks ! I have the identical snowblower. I’m 70 and need a project. Nice of you to share. Middletown De.
I hope it turns out great for you!
I did something similar to a 2004 Murray Blizzard 2 stage SnowBlower a few years back. Use Lock tight on your bolt connections. Recently had one come loose and lost the screw hardware. Mine originally had a single halogen light running off of AC from the alternator on the motor. Using a bridge rectifier setup and some inline capacitors I installed them in a weather proof electrical box under the front control panel to protect the connections from the elements. An 18 watt LED pod light set similar to yours was a HUGE upgrade to the existing halogen one. I mounted them to either side of where the old light was. I do like the battery idea so you can turn the lights on without the engine running. I happen to run across your vid while doing research on switching my lawn tractor over from the dim halogen bulbs to an LED set up. Nice work By the way.
The best video on explaining the operation n reason for parts.
Fantastic results! My snowblower has a headlight thing between where you pointed out a factory light might be and where you actually installed your off-road lights. I have been considering switching the bulb to LED and adding a capacitor to deal with the flicker that even the incandescent bulb has been experiencing from day one, but this seems like a better option. I would have to put the headlights and puddle lights on their own switches because I like adding switches and if I don't need the puddle light, I can add some run time by turning them off. Great instructions and great video!
Great idea to put the puddle lights on their own switch - or even add another switch to turn on each headlight individually - if you are willing to compromise a bit of forward visibility for double the runtime. Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
I just wanted to thank you for uploading this video....I just added this set up to my Craftsman snow blower and I couldn't be more pleased. I used the Ridgid adapter because that's the line of power tools I use. So thanks again....excellent job!
Awesome - great work, Terry!
Very good and clear instruction. On my machine your location of the lights would be problematic. In my area we frequently get 25+cm of snow ( 10"+). Our last storm dumped 44 cm. At the road we get high snow banks from the municipal plow. To clear this I drive the face of the blower into the bank and undercut the snow above the machine, then knock the snow bank down for further cleanup. As a result the lights would no doubt take a beating. I would make a bracket for the top of the auger cabinet to enable the lights to be located behind the face of the auger cabinet 8" or more to protect them. Great video!
Hey Don - you definitely get more snow than we typically do here. I like your idea of building some brackets to relocate the lights - that should work well for your application! I do recommend trying to elevate the lights a bit - maybe with a right-angle bracket? If you just move them straight back the auger cabinet will block the lower portion of the light throw, which may be annoying. A cheap option for brackets may be some shelf brackets from your local hardware store. Good luck!
Amplify Raising the lights up as well as back is what was on my mind but I didn't say so 9n my reply.
Wow, I was interested in the title because my snowblower didn’t come with any lights and I heard that if they don’t come with them, they will not except any. Which you then confirmed in your video. So I was pleasantly surprised to see what you came up with. And like someone else commented, the way you present each project somehow gives a viewer like me the confidence to actually try doing it. I’m so glad I found your channel and I appreciate everything you share! Looking forward to the next project! Thank you!! 😎👍🏼
Thanks Jase! I really appreciate that!
That was awesome 👌 easy to follow instructional video for anyone!! Nicely done and thank you.
Got 3 snowblowers and 3 toro snow throwers between my fad/ brother and I (do t ask 😅).
Thanks again
Excellent idea using the Dewalt battery pack. Will be doing this to my machine next weekend! Thx for the video
Thanks for watching, and best of luck with yours!
Flexloom is what it's called. Very informative video.
This was absolutely fantastic. Thank you very much for sharing this project. I learned a lot and may tackle this one on my own!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job, great instructions. One question: when using eletric components, such as the spade connectors, why didn’t you use the insulated connectors vs the bare spade?
Same concept can be applied to anything needing lighting: snowblowers, mowers, bikes, etc etc! Great video!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching, Carlos!
I liked the build and learned some tips. I’m going to try these on some markers lights I will be putting on my SUV in the spring. Two things which may be an improvement. A. A snow blower puts out a great deal of fine snow, which is only made worse on a windy day/night. This may cause a short in the battery. Some type of protection cover would be good. B. I would have run the black automotive protector from the lights to the T junction. There will be potentially snow and ice build up between the lights so this just provides more structure. Excellent video!!
Great tips, thank you Tom!
This video did NOT address my issue.
I already did this mod to my walk-behind blower so now I'm installing lights to my tractor snowblower so your instruction doesn't apply.
HOWEVER! - the opening for this video had me crackin up and, simply out of respect, I feel I MUST like and sub.
That opening was pure talent my friend!
I looked over your videos and noticed I've previously seen your speaker video and I'm surprised I didn't sub back then.
Either way, I'm glad I found this video / channel.
And then your Vice Grip Garage reference sealed the deal - lol.
Looks like a guy will be bingeing a fellers videos over the next few hours - lol.
Keep em comin.
Well, I’ll be dipped!
Great innovative install! Awesome, humble people skills!
Thank you!
Thank you. This will be my next project. Several years ago, I was nearly hit by a car while cleaning my driveway. I will add a small blue or amber strobe light to protect me from inattentive drivers.
What a great idea!
I loved the explanation because it was step by step thank you very much very good work thank you I really needed it
Thanks Rodolfo!
A great job. I love the idea of using the rechargeable batteries from other hand power tools. Thanks for an excellent video and description.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice video, popped up as a "play next" so I watched it. One piece of advice I'd give you going forward, grab a tube of silicone. Once you solder the terminals or butt connect wires, add silicone and heat shrink over it while still wet. Been doing this for 20+ years in auto/trucking for wiring. The silicone keeps the wires from turning green over the long term, especially when heatshrinking multiple wires at once (seals the gaps from moisture). Hope it helps :)
Great tip, D! The sealed heat shrink with glue in it forms an airtight seal, but some extra silicone is a good insurance measure. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! I did both my Ariens Deluxe and Ariens Platinum the same way using my Milwaukee Batteries and Recepticle from Amazon. A couple minor things to note, make sure you wire the volt meter in parallel and directly after the battery to ensure you are reading the battery voltage and not after the DC Converter wich will continue reading 12 volts past the the battery’s low limit. Secondly, those particular Paddle Lights from Amazon are great but make note that the white wire on them is ground and the black wire is power. I am very impressed with the amount of light I now have during our dark hours in winter. Thanks again for a great tutorial!
Good points on the placement of the volt meter and the mention about the lights... it's a good idea to always test polarity on lights like this as they are sometimes wired in ... interesting ways. :)
Awesome build and great attention to detail. I've been doing similar things with my dewalt batteries lately (soldering station, Bluetooth radio, battery adapter for old porter cable tools). The only downside is that I have been unable to find a low voltage protector that doesn't keep draining the battery.
I'd be interested to know if you ever do find a good one... Thanks for watching!
Excellent job. Very informative and easy to understand and listen to. Very professional.
Glad you enjoyed it
Amazon has a dewalt or Milwalkee battery adapter with a on off switch and inline fuse. And the output is 20vdc. If your battery has a power meter . You wont need a meter either . The main led lights here are good for 9vdc to 30vdc but the puddle lights are only 12vdc.
Fantastic! I picked up a free snowblower this week. It has a sticker saying a light kit can't be installed to the motor. I will be doing this modification. Thanks so much. Cheers.
You can't beat free! Great find, and good luck!
Just found your Video and it honestly was one of the best instruction videos that I’ve watched. I have a 2012 Honda HS1132 track driven blower. It has a round light that unfortunately isn’t very bright. I love your corded battery idea and will be doing something similar. Thank you
I don't even own or need a snowblower but those lights are bad ass
This is absolutely a wonderful instructional video! Thank you for offering your time and sharing it with us.
Wonder if yuh have a drawing of electrical circuit and how are parts connected. I sometimes had a hard time following which wires went where in the video. Appreciate it.
Hi Shahryar - in fact, I DO have a circuit drawing: amplifydiy.com/shared/SnowblowerHeadlightSchematic.jpg - let me know if you have any other questions. I'll be glad to try to help. Thanks for watching!
Hello @@AmplifyDIY , and thank you for your great assistance. I watched the video a few times to make sure of the wiring plan and got it on the first try! Only thing was my toggle switch does not turn red when it is off, just to show there is current in it. But no worries. I used one license plate light unit for my puddle light. It is OK, but will rewire it to place a second one. I am happy to share my pictures if you like. You are a terrific instructor on this medium. Keep it up please. Thank you again sir.
@@shahryaroliai6084 I'm so glad you got it working on the first try! That's great! I'd love to see some pictures if you don't mind sending via email: amplifydiy (at) gmail (dot) com. Thanks!
Great idea! My snow blower did come with a headlight, but it was as bright as a candle. Instead, I just ordered an LED to replace the incandescent lamp.
Your presentation is top notch! You could make training videos of everything!! This project, however, Is one I have to think about. Adding up the list of supplies needed totals over $100 dollars in parts plus additional tools (soldering iron, drill) and labor. All to get some light? Maybe save $100 and snow-blow during the day? You are the best teacher!!!
I agree - the parts etc do add up. In my case, I rarely am home from work in time to get to clearing snow during daylight hours... so I needed a solution. Blowers with lights built in cost several hundred more than this model. Also, keep in mind that if you have to buy tools for this (or any job) they'll be on hand for the next project, so I consider that an investment. In my case, this was the cheapest way to get to a superior solution over something like wearing a headlamp, etc. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Again, this is a top notch video. THank you for your dedication and generosity with your knowledge.
Awesome video! I followed along nicely until you got to the puddle light and LED light wiring, tying it all in. You sped the video up in that area and I wasn't able to see exactly how you did it. Do you just pig tail them all in (positives to the positives/negatives to the negatives), soldering and heat shrinking the connections? You mentioned you added a bunch of extra spade connectors but I don't see how all the spade connectors would connect to the wiring.
Yes, I soldered all the negatives together, and all the positives together, adding spade connectors where it made sense so I could isolate and replace components in the future if needed - i.e., the leads out to the lights are not directly soldered to the switch - there is a spade connector there so I can swap the switch or swap the lights in the future if needed. Apologies that the video was not clear - I'll keep that in mind for future projects.
Thanks for watching!
Great instructions, lots if smart ideas, from Q-tips onward, gotta try this, thanks
Hey David - thanks!
I’ve been trying to do this another way for years, this is just as easy and works better i think. Thanks!!
Great to hear!
A few suggestion. A bigger battery of course will last longer. Another is weather pack connections. Since you'll be getting it wet the plugs will be a better protection than just spade connectors. Plus if you need to swap lights or anything you just unplug them. Harbor Freight has some of these. I do a lot of automotive wiring and use these types of plugs
Great job, you made it look easy!!!
Great tips, thank you!
I just did this to my snowblower not for lights but for heated grips. One thing I suggest is mount the battery under the cowl. As, I just ran my blower last week and my entire cowl was covered with snow because it was snowing while i ran it and the overspray from a wind blew blown snow onto it too. You run the risk of gettting melted snow into the battery and espeically on the terminals based on the way you have it. Also, I did not run a voltmeter, but I ran the same switch you have directly off the 18V battery. My worry is the light may burn out prematurely due to the higher voltage, but I'll see. One benefit is to cut the power to the 12V converter and therefore leave the battery mounted to the system sometimes. If the light burns out that is fine, I will just add in a panel light if that happens. I'm running Ryobi batteries that have auto shutoff built into the pack, so I'm good without a voltage meter, but glad you added this for dewalt and others should too if the battery doesn't have the auto shutoff built into it.
I'm curious about burn out also. It shouldn't cuz they're rated to 36v. Ard they brighter when run on higher voltage? Been wondering cuz thinking of a voltage amplifier to bring auto 12v system up higher for offroad uses.
@@jasomkovac9115 if rated higher than what you run you should be fine.
Nice addition to the snowblower. My Craftsman 26” also does not have the rectifier needed to add lights. Seeing this video has prompted me to pursue using my dormant 12 volt motorcycle battery, might just as well get some use out of it while the thing is hibernating in the shed…it can sit on the trickle charger when not in use. Now to find a battery box mount! Also looking at adding an amber strobe or two for maximum attention.
Oooh! I like the idea of an amber strobe... might be time for an upgrade to my project! Thanks for watching!
Whenever you mount something onto an ABS plastic surface, you take the chance of the plastic cracking, especially with cold temperatures and vibration. I always use a "fender washer" to spread the stress over a larger area.
Never have a singularly insulated wire in contact with a metallic surface. Smart move to use the plastic loom to protect the joint.
OMG, your snow blower could star in a thriller horror movie.
OMG a possessed snow blower horror...
LOL 😂
Just a perfect step by step classic YT tutorial. Thanks for all of this i'll defently look to do this. Also wondering if this could be extended to making heated handgrips
I'm sure it could be altered to include heated handgrips.. maybe a project for this fall. :) Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY thanks for the reply. I'd love to watcha video on this if you do make it
You did a great job. I have one of those long light bars just sitting in my garage and part of me wants put it on my snowblower lol
Wow. Your system beats taping a flashlight on my snowblower. Both systems work, one is better. A great idea for seasonal lighting.
Wow! What great video man. Very thorough and explained everything!
Glad you liked it, Jacob!
Looks great….. I actually have the same snowblower and I wanted to put lights on it. So I’m in the process of doing that now. Thank you for your input.
You did an amazing job explaining everything! Doing so has taken the fear out of doing the work. Thanks
Painting/Drilling tip: Place painters tape over the hole prior to drilling, then you can spray directly with quick, moving bursts. Also helpful if you start with a pilot hole to reduce rough edges. Nice work!
Great tip!
Fantastic idea to use the batteries. I would have done only one thing different - knowing how wet the entire blower can get (and my face) when blowing powdery snow and it's breezy I would come up with a waterproof cover of some kind for the battery adapter. Don't want a short there.
Good idea - other viewers have suggested mounting the battery below the handlebar rather than on top - that would also help quite a bit. Thanks for watching!
Great how to video. Hopefully you get lots of snow to see the lights perform in a snow storm.👍
Just a few skiffs so far - but the forecast looks ominous (*rubs hands together in anticipation*). Thanks for watching!
Enlightening video! :) Clear and concise instructions and a "FACTRY" install .. Thanks!
This Was A Perfect Video Sir! Not One Thing I Wouldn’t Change! 🤝
Hey, thank you James! That's awesome to hear!
Great demo video. well explained and easy to follow... tks for sharing..
Thanks for watching!
I mean this in the nicest way possible…you’re a nerd and I’m here for it 😂. Very clear instructions and you did things the right way…very impressive. I was thinking about a similar project for my snowblower using drill batteries so you’ve convinced me. It takes me about an hour to clear my driveway so that’s perfect. It’s always dark by the time I get to it since I’m in Alaska and the sun goes down at 4 in the peak snow blowing season lol.
Now take my like and sub!
Oh, and your voice delivery reminds me of the car shows I used to watch growing up like horsepower TV, etc.
Sir - I shall take that badge of "nerd" and wear it with honor. Welcome aboard!
Nice, it will provide a large flood of light. I was just going to mount a couple of LED bicycle headlights to each of the handle bar uprights on my 2014 Huskee snowblower.
Yeah, I've used these lights for 2 seasons now, and they are fantastic. Thanks for watching!
Looks great! I 3D printed a mount to hold a Husky floodlight (that runs off of 6 AA batteries) mounted in the middle of the handlebars. It works, but you're right. The chute blocks the light. I didn't make my mount robust enough and it broke, so I'm thinking I'm going your route. I have Milwaukee M12 batteries, so that should simplify my wiring. I'd love to hear how this has held up and any modifications you've made or wish you'd done differently. I''m thinking of adding a third puddle light to shine on the gas cap, because it can be hard to see if you're about to overfill the tank.
This has held up great! I have not made any modifications, but if I were to do this again I'd likely flip the battery holder to be mounted under the handle bars rather than on top... better protection from snow build-up there.
@@AmplifyDIYI designed some mounts for the 3/4” lights and have two aimed at my feet and one at the gas cap. 3D printed them using PETG. Hopefully they hold up well. Tagged you in the Instagram post.
Finally nearly finished adding some headlights. Just need to finish adding the loom and routing. Nonetheless, it does work!! 👍
Thx for the guidance
Great 👍
This gave me an idea instead of lights (I use my blower during the daylight hours so I never really needed lights) I'm going to install grip heaters (made for snowmobiles) under the grips and use my M18 Milwaukee battery to power them. I bought an extra higher output (9 amp hour) battery so it should last for many hours without running down. I also installed the volt meter to keep track of the battery power. So nice having warm hands while blowing snow!
Fantastic idea! Thanks for watching and letting me know how you were inspired. :)
Only thing I would have done differently is put the volt meter after the switch so it would turn off with the lights. In case you forget to take the battery out it wouldn't get drained. Great video though. Might try this with the riding lawnmower. Lol
I’ve considered adding lights to my late 80’s JD 524 2 stage. I replaced the weak original 5hp Tecumseh with a 7hp electric start Tecumseh Snow King engine from Northern Tool around 2007. I don’t know if the newer engine has a generator for lights.
I’ve thought if I could run a belt up to a GM 1 wire alternator that could power lights but belts need a shield from blowing snow or else they will slip. 2 stage snowblowers have a 2 groove stepped pulley on the engine crankshaft and to run a 3rd belt would need a 3rd pulley and I’m not sure how to do that. Another thought was to use a Snapper rubber drive disc to rub against one of the belts on the pulley but then again you would have to modify the belt shield to keep the snow off of it. So in the end your battery power setup looks less complicated.
Well done. Love the out-takes LOL
Omg that intro was amazing!!!!🎉
Thank you! It's fun to be a little creative sometimes. :)
Came to this video with the exact same problem with my Troy Bilt and I'm definitely gonna use your exact same answer! Thanks, great video! 👍
Very informative. THIS will be my summertime project this year, I think 🤔. Aside: I need that shirt! 🎮
Great job! I found the battery adapter with built in switch. Also the main LED lights don't need the voltage reducer as they can take 8-30 volts. Also battery has built in charge gauge. I can get this done for under $30
Nice!
Same boat here, stevieray vaughn. I looked at the light specs and decided to not get the converter.
Awesome addition. Might i suggest adding a yellow/amber lens. Would reflect off the white snow a little better i think.
Great idea!
Great idea! I use the same batteries.
Amazing work! What a great idea and masterful approach for adding lighting to your snowblower. Provided me with lots of ideas for other such implements that I use. Well done.
Hi Jim - I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you, just saw this also awesome video on how to install the light system, I love it and will get the parts and get at her.
Great idea and nicely executed
Thank you very much!
Hi very nice project! You should try amber light it cut’s trough glare of snow
Great idea, Paul!
Great video, easy to follow and understand. The ideas are already rolling in my head and as soon as obtain a couple DC/DC converters my snowblower is getting an upgrade and the old snowmobile will finally have a working lights!
Awesome, Chad! I'd love to hear about where your inspiration takes you. Good luck!
I added amber strobes too
Enjoyable video.
Just a few thoughts:
1) You reaally need to look into getting a 3D printer. Yes, I realize you are trying to make these videos accessible and doable by everybody, but 3D printed bracketry, tiedown points and housings would up the "factory" look.
2) You didn't need to split the headlight wires right in the middle. You could have connected to the right light first and then extended to the left light. But, it works just fine the way it is.
3) If you pick up a piece of 4"x4" square tube you could cut 2" wide slices and make some "roll bars" over the headlights to protect them from tree branches and other obstacles. Simply drill one hole in the center of one of the sides and run the headlight bolt through the same hole and bolt the square tube and headlight down all at the same time.
Again, just my thoughts, This project is perfectly functional as is. Kudos!
Hey Michael - apologies for the late response. I appreciate all your feedback and ideas. Thanks for watching!
Great job! I have the same snow thrower and had the same issue. I’ll be using this as a guide for my project. Thanks. Heated grips install for next vid?
Hmm! Heated grips! I hadn't thought of that ... but I'll bet I could find some that could just tie into my existing circuit for the lights. I wonder how much shorter the battery would run with a resistive heating element added. Some research is in order. Thanks!
@@AmplifyDIY Did you ever get to looking into putting heated grips using your setup? I'd be interested to hear what you have to say, thanks Jon 😊
Awesome video! Regarding under volting the battery, doesn’t the battery’s board circuitry prevent it from getting below its threshold which is why any power tool stops when the battery gets low?