Love the uhmw plastic insert for the quill stop. The DRO's now appear mandatory to me...best thing, Vevor Australia have the same xy table here too! Thanks for all the fish Winky.
Yeah... DROs are the easy fix for the terrible lead screws. The table itself is great. Yep... that UHMW works great although I killed my bandsaw blade. I was holding the little piece with plyers and they touched the blade. Instant DULL and it will not cut straight... uhg!
I have two drill presses (floor models), I put similar import tables on them 15 and 30 years ago. Both the tables came from Enco. Both needed rebuilding. I had to put them up on risers so the crank handle didn't have interference for the cross axis. So I got a cheap import DRO for the first one many years ago, never got it installed.
You are SO clever. I have encorporated many of your improvements/inventions on to my round column mill including the electric motor/gear/chain to raise and lower the head. Now, I will use your idea to extend the table locks - brilliant!
If you bend over the end of the tape on either the roll or what you want to paint, it makes a pull tab to remove the tape, or pull another piece off the roll. We use this technique on duct tape at work. It saved a hassle, and speeds things up.
Man, 😊honestly, you are amazing. After the age of fifty, Unfortunately, we have become lazy. I appreciate your enthusiasm for this work. Good luck👍❤ Essa from Riyadh- KSA
They are a good table but the lead screw are not so good. Here's a tip. The blocks that hold the end of the lead screws has two counter bored holes and socket head screws holding it to the table. If you drill them out larger and put washers under the bolt head it will allow you to move the block to align the leadscrew.
You are welcome! Yes I try to make all improvements bolt on and make sure the old parts stay with the machine. Every old machine I have ever restored was missing parts and I don't want to contribute to this in the future. It's hard to imagine what might happen to this drill press 50 to 100 years from now.
I have those on my drill press and i cut the encoder bars for all 3 and it doesn't hurt anything i also made dust covers for mine to keep swarf out of the readers and off the encoder rail
Yeah... I was almost positive I cut the rails on my mill but could not remember for sure. In this case I could not have cut them much shorter anyway. I've killed one DRO on my mill with water base coolant but after moving away from this coolant the oil and chips don't see to bother the readers. I have room to put cover but not very much. I'll probably take my chances. I did put a sheet metal cover over the bottom section of the table however and got the leadscrews working much smoother. I think I should have gone with the 3/8"-16 replacement lead screws. I was worried about the slow speed but I think it might make hitting a number on the DROs easier. Actually 10 TPI is nice too. I did not realized how often i use this on my mill. I count turns and then use the DRO to get it exact.... its handy. The vevor lead is 4mm which is retarded even if I was using metric.
@@WinkysWorkshop it’s a pedestal and the table can move up and down… it’s only a small table but solid as… I saw a guy braze up the holes of shame on his table it looked really cool and being brass it still showed the history.. mine only has a few minor holes so wouldn’t really need to have too much done anyway
Don, how's that very impressive lathe doing? That thing is very impressive! Good to hear from you. Do you and your friend still have the youtube channel?
New subsciber here, looking at adding the same table and a set of DRO's to the vertical mill i am building, love the ideas, look forward to seeing many more.
I think the table is fairly well made but the lead screws and nuts are junk. You might want to replace the lead screw, nut and brackets that hold them but even then the table is a little wimpy for a mill.
Great job once again, I think the only thing I would have laid the DRO on the X access on its flat there would be no interference with your Y access then.
WINKY, the Vevor Mill table and the DROs are very reasonably priced. How accurate do you find the DRO;s to be? The Amazon website says accuracy is : ±0.06, I read that as 0.060" over one inch or is that percentage???
I agree, the table is very cheap and reasonably accurate if you work on the lead screw alignments. Yes the .06 is in mm which is .002". I'd say it might be slightly better but that might be about right. The table is a little worse I'd say... probably + or - .003" but it's hard to say and it depends on how you measure it. Across the back jaw of my vice I'd say its + or - .001"
Since the cast nut appears to be bolted on could you relocate it nearer the center for more travel? Looks good except for that wobbly hand wheel. Edit: I like the thin sheet metal method of attaching the reader to the base. I learn something new every video.
Yes moving the lead screw nut would be a good idea however right now the thrust bearing is hitting the lower casting. If I switch to a smaller diameter lead screw I'll move the nut.
Very nice video also nice solution for Quil lock to, but can you stone the table from the drillpress and also the Vevor table I heard a small bur at 3:47 😉👍👍
Incredible video lots of things to learn, but I have a question Do you want to put the VFD on this drill press so you would never change your belt for speed
I have some older 3 phase motors and a VFD. I considered doing this but wanted to keep the old time appearance. Nevertheless, I might end up doing this at some point. I could probably go with the highest speed pulley and reduce the speed by half and still have enough torque. The motors I have are old however and I've heard they are not able to handle lower speeds very well. With that being said, I suspect a less than 4 or 5 minute duration at slow speeds would be okay.
Good video and good work Mark! I laughed about the mismatched paint, it sounded just like my wife. If she would have noticed the handwheel wobbling, would she have made you fix it?
Never milling only drilling. Drill presses are not made for side loads This Avey drill press is probably a little worse in this regard. I tried Aluminum with my Dayton drill press and it was not pretty. Now wood on the other hand works very well.
I would like my x handle on the left side. would it be possible to turn both the x and y assembly 180*? I know this would put my x locking bolts to the rear, but I can deal with that. Do you think the y screw nut would still be able to be bolted using the same holes as originally spaced if I turn both assemblies 180*? thanks
From what I can tell there is an off set in the upper table dovetails to compensate for the gibs so the table can not be turned around. You could however move the lead screw and nut to the other side. You'd also have to move the bracket by the handwheel and drill and tap the table for screws
@@ButchOchs Only if you install a smaller lead screw. The thrust bearings are hitting the bottom half. With a smaller dia. lead screw and thrust bearing you would get a lot more travel. Probably 2" at least.
The drill press looks really nice, but it is dangerous to use as is. Work around it long enough and your hand is going to get caught in the motor drive belt. Is it worth getting your fingers mangled when something falls off the drill press table and you try to grab it without thinking and stick your hand into that motor drive belt. I've seen this accident before. Make some belt guards. Cheers from NC/USA
I may consider making a small guard behind the power switch other wise I'm not at all concerned. Perhaps I need to put a guard over the chuck as well. In the past I've had a spiral chip from a drill snag a finger in the past. I'm not trying to be a smart ass but where do you draw the line. The pulley is behind the drill press and chips are flying off the drill front and center.
@@WinkysWorkshop Not trying to be a busy body but back in the 60s I saw someone nearly lose a couple of fingers in an open motor pulley set-up just like yours. I wouldn't want anyone watching the videos think that is acceptable shop practice. A drill press is difficult to guard around the spindle. Every spindle shield I've seen lasts about 5 minutes before being ripped apart by chip strings. Frankly, a drill press is the most dangerous machine in the shop. You have to be careful and remember that it wants to get you. I know guards can be pain to make and sometimes a nuisance in use. In your shop there is no one to make you do anything...so you have to be your own safety officer.
@@aceroadholder2185 My point was that we make judgments about safety every day. Some are based on probability, some are based on an ability to use common sense, some are deemed acceptable risk and some on real dangerous situations. I took the upper belt guards off my Rockwell drill press and my mill but installed a smaller guard on the front of the drill press. I could see myself leaning my head on the belt. Fortunately as you said, I am my own safety officer. Like I said before, I need to look at a bearer guard between the power switch and pulley. I worked in a printing plant that actually scared the hell out of me for many years. Some of the guards covering rollers that would takes your entire arm off in a split second were totally inadequate. Then somewhere about 1995 after begging for good logical machine guards 15 years the laws changed and they went absolutely bat shit crazy installing guards. It was insanity!!! The assumption was that a no common sense was needed to work safely around a machine. Accidents actually went up year after year for the next 35 years. It was not all because of the guards, it was a combination of many factors but one of the biggest factors was the shift in responsibility. Not to be a smart ass but you don't put your finger in a belt. Guards (at least where I worked) gave people this weird sense of safety when in fact many of the guards created so many problems that it made the machines dangerous to run. I remember on one occasion getting in an argument with a supervisor about a conveyor that had a plate under the belts. At the end of the plate was a 3 inch gap between the plate and roller. I was instructed to put a new plate under the belts and make that gap less than 1/8". Two days later the same supervisor came out and laid his arm on the conveyor and that little 1/8" gap pulled a chunk of skin from under his arm and he was rushed to the emergency room to get stitches. Common sense is mandatory in the shop and it is the best safety tool we have. That gap was only a hazard if somebody stuck there entire arm in there. I hope I don't eat my words but I doubt I'll be sticking my finger in the belt.
@@WinkysWorkshop I agree with you. You can't make everything so safe that you can't possibly have something go wrong and still have it be functional. Some of the guards make things appear to be safe and you can forget about the chance of an accident and thus cause it to happen because you are not aware. At the end of the day, life is a risk and we all need to be adult enough to assess the risk and act accordingly.
I know this table and I will buy one soon. Big reproach that I will make, it is that it misses a handle on a side, and mefiez because the Chinese often put 2 handles on the photographs, whereas there is only one. and the handles to turn are also of bad quality, they are very badly turned and too much play, the Chinese do not know how to work properly............and from what I have read, the table is not pierced either to evacuate the cutting fluid
The table is very basic... the castings seem to be okay but the lead screws are not good. With that being said, you will not find anything close to this for twice the cost and if you are willing to do some additional work you will end up with a mill table equivalent to one costing 4 times what you paid.
@@WinkysWorkshop yes for a little better it is necessary to put the quadruple but it is also slightly improved Chinese. to make something good it is necessary to have a lathe and a milling machine, and much time to modify it. well at the same time for a drill press it can be suitable, but not for milling
@@mikewatson4644 It's a complex problem but also a world economy. Every attempt ever made to isolate our economy has resulted in a lose for us. There was a point in history where we could have limited some of lost manufacturing but that window of opportunity is long gone. To a very large degree we caused this problem. I remember back in 1980 the famous Binks spray gun was selling for over $500 (without the pain cup!!!). The Chinese took the design and started selling it for $29 bucks. At first the quality was terrible and Binks simply said..."ah yes, look at their terrible quality". Two or three years later the Chinese guns were about the same as the Binks. My points are, 1) we were way over priced to start with. Charging $500 for a spray gun in 1980 was ridiculous. 2) we failed to react even when we saw it happening. Then there is the allure of easy money. US company could import parts cheaper that making them here. Government tax policy made this easy and profitable to do. Buying US products might seem like a good idea but you will not find them and when you do it will not make a significant difference.
Very true. I don't know about the Binks spray gun, but I clearly remember the politicians not being worried about the loss of American jobs. The line at the time was "It's good for corporate America". I don't think that they thought anything through, just take the easiest way out for today and worry about tomorrow next week (after they got their big bonus and retired). I guess that getting old and remembering what happened and what we were being told 50 years ago makes me a little bit disgusted with politicians and big business. And when it doesn't turn out the way they said, they just point the finger at everyone else. Thank you for what you are doing. You are making the best of the situation.
Love the uhmw plastic insert for the quill stop. The DRO's now appear mandatory to me...best thing, Vevor Australia have the same xy table here too! Thanks for all the fish Winky.
Yeah... DROs are the easy fix for the terrible lead screws. The table itself is great. Yep... that UHMW works great although I killed my bandsaw blade. I was holding the little piece with plyers and they touched the blade. Instant DULL and it will not cut straight... uhg!
You did a great job of adding to again. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks, will do!
What a neat project ! Thank you
You are so welcome!
Can't get enough of this project, look forward to the next!
Haha.. thanks! Good to know people are not getting tired of seeing this drill press. I'm looking forward to using it as my primary drill press.
I have two drill presses (floor models), I put similar import tables on them 15 and 30 years ago. Both the tables came from Enco. Both needed rebuilding. I had to put them up on risers so the crank handle didn't have interference for the cross axis.
So I got a cheap import DRO for the first one many years ago, never got it installed.
You could also make an extension for the handle
You are SO clever. I have encorporated many of your improvements/inventions on to my round column mill including the electric motor/gear/chain to raise and lower the head. Now, I will use your idea to extend the table locks - brilliant!
Excellent! Nice to hear.
If you bend over the end of the tape on either the roll or what you want to paint, it makes a pull tab to remove the tape, or pull another piece off the roll.
We use this technique on duct tape at work. It saved a hassle, and speeds things up.
Thanks for the tip... I do that too although not always.
Man, 😊honestly, you are amazing.
After the age of fifty, Unfortunately, we have become lazy.
I appreciate your enthusiasm for this work.
Good luck👍❤
Essa from Riyadh- KSA
I'm 67 now. I'd say I really slowed down about 58. My workshop keeps me going. Thanks!
@@WinkysWorkshop 🌹👍
Thanks for the inspiration. I ordered the Vevor Mill table and DRO's to add to my drill press.
They are a good table but the lead screw are not so good. Here's a tip. The blocks that hold the end of the lead screws has two counter bored holes and socket head screws holding it to the table. If you drill them out larger and put washers under the bolt head it will allow you to move the block to align the leadscrew.
Enjoyed….great discussion/build
Thanks Chuck!
Very nice improvements to a century old drill press while being able to return it to it's original appearance. Good job. Thank you
You are welcome! Yes I try to make all improvements bolt on and make sure the old parts stay with the machine. Every old machine I have ever restored was missing parts and I don't want to contribute to this in the future. It's hard to imagine what might happen to this drill press 50 to 100 years from now.
hello Mark,
sweet,nice addition ,Mark nice review an video.catch you on the next one.
Thanks 👍
I have those on my drill press and i cut the encoder bars for all 3 and it doesn't hurt anything i also made dust covers for mine to keep swarf out of the readers and off the encoder rail
Yeah... I was almost positive I cut the rails on my mill but could not remember for sure. In this case I could not have cut them much shorter anyway. I've killed one DRO on my mill with water base coolant but after moving away from this coolant the oil and chips don't see to bother the readers. I have room to put cover but not very much. I'll probably take my chances. I did put a sheet metal cover over the bottom section of the table however and got the leadscrews working much smoother. I think I should have gone with the 3/8"-16 replacement lead screws. I was worried about the slow speed but I think it might make hitting a number on the DROs easier. Actually 10 TPI is nice too. I did not realized how often i use this on my mill. I count turns and then use the DRO to get it exact.... its handy. The vevor lead is 4mm which is retarded even if I was using metric.
Winky's Easter egg, full of goodness 😃
Red and Green egg
Just keeps getting better. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks Joel!
Mark, Nice upgrade adding the milling table & DROs ! It's really coming together nicely 👍👍
ATB....Dean
Thanks Dean, always good to hear from you.
Nice work mate… was looking at doing this to my old Richardson drill press. Thanks for sharing 👍👍
Thanks! Make sure you have enough room under the chuck. Or does your table move?
@@WinkysWorkshop it’s a pedestal and the table can move up and down… it’s only a small table but solid as… I saw a guy braze up the holes of shame on his table it looked really cool and being brass it still showed the history.. mine only has a few minor holes so wouldn’t really need to have too much done anyway
Nice old and now more functional drill
Don, how's that very impressive lathe doing? That thing is very impressive! Good to hear from you. Do you and your friend still have the youtube channel?
I like your wifes eye for details! The different kind of green bothered me too...
Yeah I agree... it didn't bother me but after changing the color it looks a lot better!
Hi Mark, that table set-up turned out real nice.
I've used it a few time and I think I agree, thanks
New subsciber here, looking at adding the same table and a set of DRO's to the vertical mill i am building, love the ideas, look forward to seeing many more.
I think the table is fairly well made but the lead screws and nuts are junk. You might want to replace the lead screw, nut and brackets that hold them but even then the table is a little wimpy for a mill.
Nice work, as always!
Thanks Dave
New subscriber here. I really like your work, as well as some of your viewpoints. Keep making videos and I’ll keep watching. Thank you sir.
Cool! Welcome and thanks!
Super Video my good man....... THANKS Ill buy one of those Chinese milling tables ASAP
The mill table is fairly good aside from the leadscrews.
Very good job 🇧🇷
Thanks
One small suggestion....paint the center of the belt tension wheel the same red.
Yeah... I overlooked that. Thanks!
Great video. My only suggestion when mounting dro is to use L stock to put. A roof over dro to keep swarf and oil off of the dro mechanism..
Probably a good idea although the one on my mill has done okay without. I think I have room, I might add a cover. Thanks.
Keep up the amazing work
Thanks!
Another great job well done. For cutting small screws look into electrictions wire strippers type pliers..
Thanks! Yeah... I have a pair, they do okay but not so good on the socket head screws, they are too hard.
Fantastic as usual!
Glad you think so! Thanks
Great job once again, I think the only thing I would have laid the DRO on the X access on its flat there would be no interference with your Y access then.
Interesting.. then I could have shortened the bar. Good idea!
@@WinkysWorkshop Yep exactly.
1917 meets 2023.👍🏻
Yes it did
Very nice work.
You have definitely made a very nice machine.
What color green is it, or paint type?
Nice upgrades.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
I think its Hunter Green Rustolium. Thanks, I love this drill press. Very well thought out.
WINKY, the Vevor Mill table and the DROs are very reasonably priced. How accurate do you find the DRO;s to be? The Amazon website says accuracy is : ±0.06, I read that as 0.060" over one inch or is that percentage???
I agree, the table is very cheap and reasonably accurate if you work on the lead screw alignments. Yes the .06 is in mm which is .002". I'd say it might be slightly better but that might be about right. The table is a little worse I'd say... probably + or - .003" but it's hard to say and it depends on how you measure it. Across the back jaw of my vice I'd say its + or - .001"
The electric cutters can cut the skrews off to length , you know the ones with the holes on one side, and thread on the other
Cool
Very Slick..love it.
Glad you like it, Thanks!
merci pour votre joli travail
Thanks for watching!
Since the cast nut appears to be bolted on could you relocate it nearer the center for more travel? Looks good except for that wobbly hand wheel. Edit: I like the thin sheet metal method of attaching the reader to the base. I learn something new every video.
Yes moving the lead screw nut would be a good idea however right now the thrust bearing is hitting the lower casting. If I switch to a smaller diameter lead screw I'll move the nut.
Very nice video also nice solution for Quil lock to, but can you stone the table from the drillpress and also the Vevor table I heard a small bur at 3:47 😉👍👍
Thanks... a stone would be the best but really thee are no burrs... just a few sharp edges.
Incredible video lots of things to learn, but I have a question
Do you want to put the VFD on this drill press so you would never change your belt for speed
I have some older 3 phase motors and a VFD. I considered doing this but wanted to keep the old time appearance. Nevertheless, I might end up doing this at some point. I could probably go with the highest speed pulley and reduce the speed by half and still have enough torque. The motors I have are old however and I've heard they are not able to handle lower speeds very well. With that being said, I suspect a less than 4 or 5 minute duration at slow speeds would be okay.
Good video and good work Mark! I laughed about the mismatched paint, it sounded just like my wife. If she would have noticed the handwheel wobbling, would she have made you fix it?
I wasn't concerned but she was right, Ha... it looks better now
I love the weave on that shirt. Would you mind sharing who made it?
Blue Mountain... no idea where I got it
@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you.
Are you using it for light milling or just for drilling? Thinking about doing this with my old delta drill press
Never milling only drilling. Drill presses are not made for side loads This Avey drill press is probably a little worse in this regard. I tried Aluminum with my Dayton drill press and it was not pretty. Now wood on the other hand works very well.
Отличная работа!
Thanks
First time here, just subscribed, see you again
Welcome aboard!
HI MARK, ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO. WILL A 5/8 T-NUT FIT IN THOSE SLOTS?
The bottom is 3/4" and the top it 1/2" wide
I would like my x handle on the left side. would it be possible to turn both the x and y assembly 180*? I know this would put my x locking bolts to the rear, but I can deal with that. Do you think the y screw nut would still be able to be bolted using the same holes as originally spaced if I turn both assemblies 180*? thanks
From what I can tell there is an off set in the upper table dovetails to compensate for the gibs so the table can not be turned around. You could however move the lead screw and nut to the other side. You'd also have to move the bracket by the handwheel and drill and tap the table for screws
@@WinkysWorkshop would moving the lead screw nut to a more centered location increase the travel of the table?
@@ButchOchs Only if you install a smaller lead screw. The thrust bearings are hitting the bottom half. With a smaller dia. lead screw and thrust bearing you would get a lot more travel. Probably 2" at least.
Just like a wife to point out color matches... arghhh.. just when you think its done. 👍
Haha... but she was right, it looked better, what can I say?
The drill press looks really nice, but it is dangerous to use as is. Work around it long enough and your hand is going to get caught in the motor drive belt.
Is it worth getting your fingers mangled when something falls off the drill press table and you try to grab it without thinking and stick your hand into that motor drive belt.
I've seen this accident before. Make some belt guards.
Cheers from NC/USA
I may consider making a small guard behind the power switch other wise I'm not at all concerned. Perhaps I need to put a guard over the chuck as well. In the past I've had a spiral chip from a drill snag a finger in the past. I'm not trying to be a smart ass but where do you draw the line. The pulley is behind the drill press and chips are flying off the drill front and center.
@@WinkysWorkshop Not trying to be a busy body but back in the 60s I saw someone nearly lose a couple of fingers in an open motor pulley set-up just like yours. I wouldn't want anyone watching the videos think that is acceptable shop practice. A drill press is difficult to guard around the spindle. Every spindle shield I've seen lasts about 5 minutes before being ripped apart by chip strings. Frankly, a drill press is the most dangerous machine in the shop. You have to be careful and remember that it wants to get you.
I know guards can be pain to make and sometimes a nuisance in use. In your shop there is no one to make you do anything...so you have to be your own safety officer.
@@aceroadholder2185 My point was that we make judgments about safety every day. Some are based on probability, some are based on an ability to use common sense, some are deemed acceptable risk and some on real dangerous situations. I took the upper belt guards off my Rockwell drill press and my mill but installed a smaller guard on the front of the drill press. I could see myself leaning my head on the belt. Fortunately as you said, I am my own safety officer. Like I said before, I need to look at a bearer guard between the power switch and pulley. I worked in a printing plant that actually scared the hell out of me for many years. Some of the guards covering rollers that would takes your entire arm off in a split second were totally inadequate. Then somewhere about 1995 after begging for good logical machine guards 15 years the laws changed and they went absolutely bat shit crazy installing guards. It was insanity!!! The assumption was that a no common sense was needed to work safely around a machine. Accidents actually went up year after year for the next 35 years. It was not all because of the guards, it was a combination of many factors but one of the biggest factors was the shift in responsibility. Not to be a smart ass but you don't put your finger in a belt. Guards (at least where I worked) gave people this weird sense of safety when in fact many of the guards created so many problems that it made the machines dangerous to run. I remember on one occasion getting in an argument with a supervisor about a conveyor that had a plate under the belts. At the end of the plate was a 3 inch gap between the plate and roller. I was instructed to put a new plate under the belts and make that gap less than 1/8". Two days later the same supervisor came out and laid his arm on the conveyor and that little 1/8" gap pulled a chunk of skin from under his arm and he was rushed to the emergency room to get stitches. Common sense is mandatory in the shop and it is the best safety tool we have. That gap was only a hazard if somebody stuck there entire arm in there. I hope I don't eat my words but I doubt I'll be sticking my finger in the belt.
@@WinkysWorkshop I agree with you. You can't make everything so safe that you can't possibly have something go wrong and still have it be functional. Some of the guards make things appear to be safe and you can forget about the chance of an accident and thus cause it to happen because you are not aware. At the end of the day, life is a risk and we all need to be adult enough to assess the risk and act accordingly.
@@mikewatson4644 Yep... now if you will excuse me, I have a dirt bike with a hill to climb.
I like it 🇦🇺
thanks Norm!
Had resub idk was pbone now is IDK good video
Thanks and thanks for the resub
ESPECTACULAR ESE TRABAJO ,PERO LOS EQUIPOS DE VEVOR CHINOS TIENEN muchos defectos no????????????????????
Yep... but cheap and usable. The basic castings are great!
I know this table and I will buy one soon. Big reproach that I will make, it is that it misses a handle on a side, and mefiez because the Chinese often put 2 handles on the photographs, whereas there is only one.
and the handles to turn are also of bad quality, they are very badly turned and too much play, the Chinese do not know how to work properly............and from what I have read, the table is not pierced either to evacuate the cutting fluid
The table is very basic... the castings seem to be okay but the lead screws are not good. With that being said, you will not find anything close to this for twice the cost and if you are willing to do some additional work you will end up with a mill table equivalent to one costing 4 times what you paid.
@@WinkysWorkshop yes for a little better it is necessary to put the quadruple but it is also slightly improved Chinese. to make something good it is necessary to have a lathe and a milling machine, and much time to modify it. well at the same time for a drill press it can be suitable, but not for milling
@@andreaspagnatosquit3844 This table, despite the name, it not suitable for milling and neither is a drill press.
too bad you bought chinese
It's hard not to. Even when you think you are buying US made you are not.
@@WinkysWorkshop Good answer. China buys our corn and soybeans. Does anyone think that they would buy our goods if we didn't buy anything from them?
@@mikewatson4644 It's a complex problem but also a world economy. Every attempt ever made to isolate our economy has resulted in a lose for us. There was a point in history where we could have limited some of lost manufacturing but that window of opportunity is long gone. To a very large degree we caused this problem. I remember back in 1980 the famous Binks spray gun was selling for over $500 (without the pain cup!!!). The Chinese took the design and started selling it for $29 bucks. At first the quality was terrible and Binks simply said..."ah yes, look at their terrible quality". Two or three years later the Chinese guns were about the same as the Binks. My points are, 1) we were way over priced to start with. Charging $500 for a spray gun in 1980 was ridiculous. 2) we failed to react even when we saw it happening. Then there is the allure of easy money. US company could import parts cheaper that making them here. Government tax policy made this easy and profitable to do. Buying US products might seem like a good idea but you will not find them and when you do it will not make a significant difference.
Very true. I don't know about the Binks spray gun, but I clearly remember the politicians not being worried about the loss of American jobs. The line at the time was "It's good for corporate America". I don't think that they thought anything through, just take the easiest way out for today and worry about tomorrow next week (after they got their big bonus and retired). I guess that getting old and remembering what happened and what we were being told 50 years ago makes me a little bit disgusted with politicians and big business. And when it doesn't turn out the way they said, they just point the finger at everyone else. Thank you for what you are doing. You are making the best of the situation.
@@mikewatson4644 Yep, agree. Thanks
Nice job! I always learn something from your videos. You make everything look so easy.
Thanks Mick, good to hear.