10 Pro Tips Every Climber Should Know
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
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10 tips from pro climber Alex Waterhouse on how to improve your climbing.
Let me know if you found the tips helped!?
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Contents of video:
0:00 Intro
0:10 Tip 1 Swapping Feet
1:32 Tip 2 Drop Knees
3:37 Tip 3 Standing on Volumes
4:31 Tip 4 Climbing Fast
6:12 Tip 5 Flagging
7:03 Tip 6 Dynos
8:34 Tip 7 Rock Overs
9:52 Tip 8 Heel Hooks
11:18 Tip 9 Mantles
12:23 Tip 10 Putting it all together - กีฬา
I'd love a video on more advanced techniques such as nose jamming and teeth crimping.
😂 on it
I did a chin hang to finish a boulder once, it was pretty funny.
I tried teeth cramping today, and i deff need some teaching, im now at the dentist for an emergency appointment..
I projected a V2 for 6 months before realizing I needed a nut hook.
Thanks for the great tips.
8:07 that down-dyno is insane to me - especially when he can just pop it back and forth like it’s nothing
It’s pretty amazing 😃
At first, I thought it simply replay the video backward, rewatch to realized that it was real.
that is a routine warm up 😂
I thought the same. Spiderman in real live
Timestamps for quick-reference!
0:13 - 1: Swapping Feet
1:32 - 2: Drop Knees
3:38 - 3: Standing on Volumes
4:31 - 4: Climbing Fast
6:12 - 5: Flagging
7:05 - 6: Dynos
8:34 - 7: Rock Overs
9:53 - 8: Heel hooks
11:19 - 9: Mantles
12:23 - 10: Putting it all together
Thank you 🙏
Another small tip for standing on volumes. Your foot placement also matters. If you put your foot high on the volume (close to the wall) you will generally push your hips out of the wall. If you stand at the extremitty of the volume, you will be able to bring your hip closer to the wall. And this will help decrease tension in the arms.
That's actually a really nice tip. Most of the time, the closest part of the volume to the wall is also the highest, so you get tricked into thinking you'll want that when in reality those maybe 5cm don't matter.
My local gym has a dyno that uses a volume and everyone (including me) that I've seen has always pushed themselves away from the wall making it extremely hard to grab the next hold.
Imma try your tip next time if they still have it
@@HuslWusl nice, im sure it will help, but generally for slabs its a no brainer, as you said standing higher on the volume to get that extra reach wont do much usually. I think people will tend to be afraid to stand at the edge of the volume, and feel more secure higher on the volume, but its psychological.
@Adam I usually just try to move slowly and concentrate a lot to adjust for my hip being closer to a wall when my feet are closer to the wall on a volume so I don't push myself off. While that works well, it's also kinda stressful. Now I'm really excited to try this out.
@@HuslWusl you can look also in the video at 4:04 when his right foot is higher he struggle to stand hand free on the volume, but then right after he switch to is left feet that he position a bit lower on the volume and he is able to stand hand free for much more longer. Keep me updated with this ! 🙂
@Adam Update: I got the dyno on my 4th or 5th try and then immediately finished it. These tips really help, along with getting a shoe size smaller, though I think my right foot is bigger than my left as it barely fit and started hurting after a while, while the left one fit perfectly
awesome gym - check
great instructions - check
perfect showcase - check
getting carried away because of having too much fun - check
this is it, the perfect climbing tutorial
now I have an idea for a collaboration:
- take two equally skilled amateurs
- separately coach each of them for one hour: one coached by Alex, one by Louis Parkinson
- have them compete afterwards with coaches cheering them on
Yay thank you 🙏
That’s a great idea!
Another super useful tip I found is to use deadpointing as much as possible and as soon as possible as you start climbing! Deadpointing is when you use momentum to move, but you aim at having zero momentum at the time of contact. It means that you will have literally split seconds with zero force on your hands and is therefore the most efficient way of climbing. A big issue with a lot of people is that most people are risk averse and climb more "defensively" (controlled) rather than "offensively" (dynamic). But it's a skill as any other! Practice makes improvement!
Great advice!!
I've never heard a term for that but I use that all the time... My favourite climbs give lots of opportunities for this kind of movement 🙏
8:00 my man ripped a huge fart 😂
Mantling is a uber important skill for outdoor climbing. I feel like you have to learn them or you’ll have a rough time outside lol
Definitely!!
@@JoshRundle actually, mantles are something super hard. Might make for some good content 🙃
Defo need in font
Right bro 👍🏻
Never heard this called an "inside-flag": 6:38. Inside flags are usually when your flagging leg is on the inside of your non-flagging leg.
This would be more of a back-flag.
One tip I heard for drop knees is that you want to drop the same knee as the hand that you're reaching out for the next hold (i.e. if you're reaching with the right hand, drop the right knee) Anyway loved the vid Josh, been binging your vids keep it up :))
That’s a great tip!! Aw thank you 😊
It's usually like that unless you are doing a rolling over (when you go from side pull to side pull and you have to swing to the other side to get some leverage)!
On the heel hook section, I really wish y'all showcased rocking the heel into a hold to force as much contact as possible. It really levels up your footwork repertoire when you can lock in a heel like that for extra rubber engagement
Good point! If we make a follow up I’ll make sure we include it 😃
No offense, but I have to agree with the others who feel that these are more "beginner/intermediate" tips than "pro" tips. (Even though the video is really well done.) Maybe a title of "Essential Climbing Techniques as Taught by a Pro Climber" would fit it better? (Yeah yeah, need eyeballs and the algorithm.) Anyway, the best part of the video (for me) is when you could see the pure joy of climbing from Alex as he started to dyno up and down just because it was fun. Nowadays we climbers spend so much time training and worrying about minutiae just so we can climb one harder grade, that we often lose our passion in the process. That small clip was a good reminder not to forget why we do this in the first place.
Thanks for the feedback 😃! I agree we have to remember to enjoy climbing and have fun! It’s very easy to forget that
This comment is giving ”this is a V2 in my gym” energy. Its totally fine to call these pro tips, as he is in fact, a pro, although I get your point
This was an amazing video and a really easy watch as well. Never saw any of your content before, but will definitely be keeping an eye on your channel!!
6:30 there's 3 types of flag, no? (from most common to least) outside, back, and inside. outside is when foot flags out to its respective side (often just referred to as a flag). back is when foot flags out to the opposing side, behind the other leg. and inside is when foot flags out to the opposing side, in front of the other leg (between other leg and the wall), and will always put you in a hips-squared position
sure there's a lot of flimsy terminology in climbing and things can be very culturally/regionally dependent, but i thought this was pretty defined
Superb video, thank-you! I love those "magic moments"... may well take the long drive to Reading just to experience that 'wall of tips'! Definitely going to be applying these more in my climbing...
Fantastic Collab with Alex! With his skills, you guys were able to showcase these techniques in really tough boulders. That was fantastic to see, and the tips were absolutely spot on. In the future, if people ask me for a good video to get them started on technique, I will send them this video. 10/10
Aw thank you so much!!! Really means a lot 😊
Awesome to watch. I am a beginner, so time to practice and have fun! Thanks!
Alex is doing an amazing job explaining everything, that was great. And I loved it when he started dynoing! Great video. Took me a second to realize that this was one of the more serious ones, I was waiting for you to lose a bet or something :)
Alex explains them so well! Thank you 😊 haha yea no shoe smelling or bets lost on this one 😅
Excellent and concise summary
This was really good. I've seen a few videos on flagging and drop knee but this was the clearest example of why they're useful
Thank you!
8:04 he went full goblinmode
I like the headbutt technique when climbing a slab!
Thanks guys, that was a really helpful video!
Yo great video guys! Super good tips, I find myself forgetting to heel hook sometimes, hopefully this video will help me remember more. I really like how TCH does their gyms and I wish we had one in Colorado!
Thanks Ryan!! Ah I do too! TCH is awesome 👏 I love it 😃
Great tips, clearly explained. Well done Josh and Alex 👌🏻
Thank you 😊
i love alex so much!
i‘ll happily watch any video he‘s in :)
also great video as always josh! :)
Alex is great!! Thank you 😊
is this a brand new gym? Those walls and holds look super clean!
The Climbing Hangar!! Amazing gyms!
Amazing video thanks!
these are great helpful tips i already feel more confident
Excellent video, clear examples of techniques. Thank you!
Thank you!!
It’s really helpful seeing how not to approach a skill as well as how to do it. I have a MUCHbetter idea of what I am doing wrong now.
That’s a great point I didn’t think about that!
Great advice! Thank you for sharing I have to remember to drop knee because I always forget it.
Yay pleased you liked the tips!! Yesss drop knees are so useful, personally my favourite technique
The way he climbs the pink one at 3 minutes in is incredibly helpful
Yay that’s great 😁
Rock over is my favorite move, it just feels so good to me
love a good rock over!
Awesome and professional video! was surprised to see that you only have 20K subs, you deserve a lot more
Thank you!!! Hopefully more soon!
Very easy to know
And useful 👍🏻
Really useful tips! Thanks for sharing, hope to see you both soon :)
Thanks for having us!! My favourite gym 😊
super nice video man, thanks!
Thank you 🙏
Excellent video 🎉
Thanks from Dublin, Josh. Great tips in your video. TCH looks amazing.
Thanks Mary! TCH is insane, my favourite gyms!!
Excellenent, very helpful and vivid, thanks a lot!
Thank you 😊
Those wooden holds by cheeta are basically a work of art. 10:38
😍
great video josh!! keep it up.
Thanks 🙏
Amazing tips - Alex is such a good teacher!
He’s great isn’t he 😃
Really great and pedagogical, thank you !
Thanks 🙏
I know all these techniques but you have inspired me to train them better instead of using them when I really have to. Thanks!
That’s great to hear 😊 I hope it helps!
Great run-down, thanks.
Thanks for watching 😃
Great video
This is a great overview for bouldering technique. Well done.
Do yourself a favour and google for longer videos for every technique shown to really understand whats going on.
But in 10 minutes you can not explain it any better.
Excellent video - this guy is a great teacher! What does he have to say about toe hooks? They're my biggest weakness for sure.
Hey! Thanks so much for this vid. I'm new to climbing :)
Thank you for watching!!
Great video guys!!
Thank you 🙏
Please make this a series!!!
Working on it!
Thanks dude!
Thanks for watching 😊
Suuuuuper clean and nice gym.
rock over tip was great, struggling with topping out with those mantles
Yay!! I struggle with Topping out and mantles
I’m a beginner climber and I’ll be sure to try some of these tips out the next time I’m climbing
Awesome I hope it helps!!!! :)
Those hoods are so clean and chalk-less
The mantle really doesnt look that hard. I'm a short person, and every time I need to get something from the top cabinet in the kitchen I mantle myself up the counter. And such a fun video!
10:37 those (mostly) wooden holds look gorgeous
They are so nice!!
Josh: 'We' gonna teach you -> immediately hands over the scepter to Max🤣 who did a great job as always. Especially enjoyed seeing him dynoing up and down the purple boulder ;)
Haha 😂 gotta hand it over to the pros
Road bike can be more slippier than the mountain bike but it all depends on the type of surface you're riding. In muddy terrain mountbike will have more connective area whereas on the flat asphalt road the road bike will be better. So in context of standing on a flat volume, your analogy is actually reverse from reality
This is gonna help me win my next comp for sure😎😎
Haha if it does I want at least 50% of the win 😉
super helpful :)
Yay 😁
Whatever gym that is, it's so nice. Great routes for learning.
The Climbing Hagar Reading
Every hold is so new
that gym is gorgeous
finally a man on this channel who can actually climb and doesnt just use his height to reach the top!
To be fair I do I find it difficult not being able to climb and still climbing 8c, it’s a real struggle! But it is hard to hear you from all the way down there so maybe it’s just an altitude thing!
Nathan recording for Hannah in the background? 👀
Eagle 🦅 eyes
Man, I'm new so I'm not great at most of these techniques obviously, but for me personally I think mantals are really hard lml. I mean, I've only ever attempted mantals on v4s because my gym doesn't use them often for boulders. The ones I've done I end up just hitting the wall with a part of my arm before I can successfully mount.
The best video
Damnnn that gym is phenomenal
Any benefit to climbing slow on overhangs as a training thing?
Quick tip from the breaks video
Haha I wondered who would be the first to spot that!
This is the cleanest gym I think I have ever seen
Agreed
Are these not just movement basics? Doesn't take a pro climber to teach you how to smear and foot swap... Could you do a follow up with some more advanced stuff that Alex has discovered in his climbing career so far?
That’s the same as tips. That’s true, but it helps 😉. Yea that’s a great idea, next time I’m filming with Alex I will 😃
@@JoshRundle Yeah I get that but all of these have been covered so extensively, almost all climbing youtube channels have their own spin on explaining the basic techniques. As you've got access to a pro athlete it would be really cool to hear some things that only someone at his level or with his experience would have learned.
@@6darkness6eternal6 yea you are right, it would have been great to make a video showcasing the things you mentioned. If we manage to do another video together we will do that :)
WOW
que buen video!!!!!!!
Great video but I feel really sorry for Alex's knees. Maybe another tip to teach is: don't stick the landing!
This gym is so clean! How?
It’s amazing isn’t it!!
that gym looks brand new
I was 😃
What would be good training tools to get a mantel move? Like triceps or different muscle groups with some exercises 🙈 a weak girl struggling here 😂
I think some fast pull ups would help to get you over the hold quickly. Could practice those with a thera band to make them easier. And yea I think triceps definitely help too! Mantles are hard!!!
7:40
him: Super easy!
me: ......no...?
why is it better to have more surface area when standing on a volume? the friction force is independent of surface area; what else affects the situation?
You may be referring to the high school physics "coefficient of friction" model, but that's actually a very poor representation of reality, as a glance at any race car will tell you. Spreading the same load over a greater rubber surface area will almost always improve the grip. Keeping the heels down also encourages you to keep your weight further back, which is critical on friction slab type moves.
What climbing shoes are these? Would you reccomend them for beginners?
theyre scarpa dragos. definitely would not recommend them for beginners. buy something cheaper, more comfortable, less 'gimmicky' - i.e. more well-rounded perfomance-wise. flats or maybe a moderate downturn shoe are generally good for new climbers, and something that isn't geared towards any one style/terrain of climbing. black diamond is always a good first pair of shoes. best way to find a pair for you is to go into a shop and have someone experienced help you with trying shoes on
why is this gym so clean?!
Brand new 😍
I’m at the stage now after 2 months where I feel like I have the upper body strength and height to climb a lot of things but also at the point where I realise I have no body technique and weak finger strength, so I’m practising on fingerboards and trying to do the body twisting to take strain of arms, is their a general rule of thumb when twisting so if you are needing to reach with right hand you twist in to the right? Same with left? Also I’m 6ft 3 is the advantage of knee bars still applicable being taller
wouldnt hop on finger boards when youre new, it puts a lot of stress on your fingers and can very easily make you prone to injuries both now and down the line. general rule is to wait a year of climbing before doing finger-training, as that's a safe bet for how long it'll take for your fingers to have adjusted to the unique strain theyre exposed to from climbing.
and besides, you really shouldn't be worried about your finger strength unless you're climbing maybe v6 or 7 (ofc grading varies slightly area to area), as it's very likely that anything below that that you're struggling on could be sent by better technique or strength in other areas, like muscle strength or recruitment.
here's a link to a really good video that might be useful to you th-cam.com/video/Lb8QkUemXiM/w-d-xo.html
@@Blake-lg1nb yes very true advice, I’m current 3 months in and done my first white today, pretty happy, done a v4 tried a v5 and yes my finger tip said goodbye 😂 they are not kind to your fingers at all! Will check the video thanks for advice
"MAN!" I would not be caught DEAD doing that kind of stuff! That's nuts! 😯
You need to try it it’s awesome!!!
@@JoshRundle "HOLY SPLATTERING DEFYING ACT!" You gotta have balls to do that. No thanks.
8.15 this guy is awsome
What are those shoes?
I’m basically blind in one eye which has messed with my depth perception. You have no idea how dodgy some moves and dynos become when you’re not sure you’re actually going to touch the hold even if you make it to the hold 😂
typed this just before seeing the downwards dyno on repeat 😂😂😂 I’d die
Taking a quick tip from the breaks video 🤣
👍👍
real tip we need is how to make your shoes not smell like shit after lmao. Just got myself a pair of Dragos and after a week they smell horrible. I had another pair but used socks with them and it was just as bad. I climb about 1-2 times a week but still drive to the gym with my car smelling like my shoes lol
Doesn’t solve the issue, but you can delay the smell onset by letting them air out and dry between sessions. After you climb unlace or otherwise loosen up your shoes as much as possible. Keep them outside your bag and somewhere with plenty of air. Avoid keeping them in your car, because that closed environment traps all the moisture and helps the stinky bacteria grow. If you’re really sweaty or live in a humid area, I’ve also found it helpful to have two pairs of identical shoes and to alternate them to give them more dry time between sessions.
Haha yea climbing shoes arnt the best for smellthetics 😅. But Sparrow Hawke has some great ideas 💡
I just hold myself up, then switch my feet while above
It’s Alex
It was the rock over for me
Love a rock over
I feel like the footswaps show how to swap an unweighted foot. It's not that easy or smooth if the foot is bearing weight. Please show it without jugs for handholds.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
what pants is he wearing? Which brand? I want to have them
The session pants from Wild Country! They are awesome, I wear them every day