Cheap fix for A/C and Heater door mode actuator
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- This video provides step-by-step instruction for fixing a bad actuator under the dash that controls the damper for the A/C and Heat. If you're intermittently getting A/C and Heat, but both do work, then this video will help you fix it. The part is called an "A/C / Heater Door Mode Actuator" and looks and works similiar to door lock actuators in doors. This DIY is specifically for a Honda Odyssey 2004 and is applicable for years 1999-2004. However, the principles are the same and the motors inside the actuators seem to be the same in most vehicles. If you have an questions, leave them in the comments below and I will do my best to answer them.
Here is a link to where you can find the actuator I used to remove the motor from.
TOPAZ 25770692 HVAC Heater Blend Air Door Actuator for Cadillac DTS 06-11
amzn.to/2Dktcxa
Music provided royalty free by iMovie
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
After many years of using TH-cam for car fixes this is by far the best video, I did the same procedure, purchase the same part from same seller and last night I fixed a 2004 Honda Pilot and it took about 45 minutes start to finish, thanks!
mike alley, that’s awesome! Glad it worked out for you. That’s what I love about TH-cam. I just wish others would make diy videos that are more succinct and less about other things than the reason your watching it.
So it works for a Honda Pilot 2004 ?
update it worked but have to solder wires
Cost me maybe an hour of aggravation yet saved me hundreds in a trip to the parts store, auto shop, or at worst the dealership. As soon as I plugged the actuator back in, the gears turned and I was back in a car with working heat. Thank you so much for posting! Life saver and a wife-saver!
@John Glenn, that's awesome! I'm glad the video helped you out.
I just watched your DIY video, it was excellent! Not being a good mechanic, I took my 2004 Pilot to my dealer and they quoted me $450 for the part and $550 for labor = $1,000! I said my car isn't worth that... so out of desperation I searched for answers and found your video. Thank you very much, I am going to do it myself.
@Jonathan Froude, be patient with the project. It's not a simple, pull it out and put it back in kind of project, but it's certainly doable. Just takes a bit of time.
@@DIYJeff I was able to replace it but now only the A/C comes on, not the heater... now it's the opposite. What should I do now?
@@jofroude seems like one of the linkage pins is put back wrong. Not sure if it is the white plastic one or the wire one. One let's the heat in and the other mixes hot and cold at a rate that satisfies the thermostat position.
@@tomholley6904 Thanks Tom! I'll take it out again and check it.
thanks, my actuator is discontinued and this gave me confidence to know i can just replace the motor inside, fairly simple
update! it worked!
After watching this video, I instead went to the local auto parts "junk yard" and pulled the exact part from another Odyssey. Got it for $25. Then it was just a 15 minute swap of the parts and all is well.
I just completed my door mode actuator installation and test based on thi video -- and my front vents now adjust the temperature properly via this actuator from 60° to 90° (the back vents worked fine before). IT WORKS !!! I used the Cadillac part from the link above ($20.87 at Amazon). BUT BE ADSVISED -- this part came from China and now has wires soldered to the motor. That didn't stop me, so I cut the wires and soldered the new motor into my old housing. Oh, and the new motor would not seat completely in the old housing, so I used the back of the Chinese unit which had grooves that fit the new motor. And because I broke all of the plastic tabs broke off when I opened the unit (it is ~23 years old, brittle), I used 4 small cable ties to go through the extra hole that were is the old and new cases and hold it firmly shut. I had to align the gear based on my photo that I took BEFORE I removed the unit. That part or reinstallation is somewhat tricky.
In a word: brilliant! In another: superb! Had considered, but not used a manual solution of another youtuber. With satisfaction, I applied your fix yesterday. Works perfectly. Darn shame, and quite maddening that Honda is gouging its loyal customers. $343 dealer quote for an actuator, that cost me
Preston Ren, glad you were able to get your actuator up and running again. I agree, that such a tiny little part like an actuator motor, can cost so much to replace. It's outrageous! When I couldn't find any videos on TH-cam on how to fix it cheap I figured I'd put one out there.
gota LOVE youtubers like you .Im looking for solutions for my 2011 camry climate control issues . I will keep this in mind if I only need a motor. I'm also thinking of sharing here for others. Never made a video, but my son has.
@hoober ed, thanks for the kind words. I get so much from other peoples videos that I wanted to give back to the DIY community.
Thank you for this video!
Very helpful and direct to what I actually have in my Accord/ exactly to what I have.
Those clips most of them broke of while separating the actuator but the 7” bolts hold it together just fine. 10 points out of ten you deserve.
Leonardo Pagliaricci, awesome! I'm glad you found it useful. I ended up with one of the clips breaking myself. It was the first one I tried to get loose and had to be careful not to break the others. If you had to, you could super glue or gorilla glue it as well. But I'm glad it worked for you.
what year was your honda accord and was the actuator location in the same place as the one in this video (passenger side on the left)? thanks
This guy is my new hero!
@David and Laura Blevins, LOL, grad the video was helpful for you.
Thank you for this video. You saved a big part of Christmas money. I just did this on a 2006 Acura MDX. Works like a new one. I was looking for video to change heater core when I saw your video. Super glad I came across it first.
@Mike McCormack, that’s awesome! I’m glad you were able to fix it!
why were you going to change the heater core?
Exceptional video, thorough, and extremely helpful for a 2007 Acura RDX. Now to put it back into the car 😬
Taking it in and out of the car is hardest part.
Thank you so much for putting this video all together. You've been a great help for so many people like me all over the planet. Best step by step video on TH-cam I've seen so far. Kudos to you!
@ryan esguerra, you're welcome. I've found that even a daunting task can be easy when broken down step-by-step.
Thank you that was awesome. I noticed my 2004 honda accord lx coupe gets cold or heat when I turn the car. My co-worker said it's the actuator. As you said, $111. However I did find one on ebay and another on amazon much cheaper. As past projects I know that some of these sites can sell you the wrong part. It's nice to know that we don't have to send it back. Instead see if the motor matches and replace it. Thank you again.
ScreenPrintR , you’re welcome.
Thanks for the help Jeff. I have the same problem on my '04 Honda Pilot with a chattering noise coming from the dash as well. Have a replacement actuator ordered and going to tackle the problem. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for making it. Going to look into that problem on mine.
You probably saved me $200!
J Higgz , at the dealership the part alone is probably $150. Hope the video helps and let me know how it goes if you decide to do it.
Thank Jeff just work on my 1999 TL and it is the motor , got the heat to work now , thank you so much with the video. Thank you
song tuy, awesome! Congratulations on doing it yourself. It's not an easy project.
great video. Thanks for saving me money.
@qdmazo, you're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Thank you now I just need to find a blend door actuator that has the same type of motor as my 2005 Toyota Corolla LE
Jeff has great low cost fix. I opened my motor assembly cleaned it and when I reassembled realized I failed to mark the indexing of the primary drive gear. To solved this I plugged in the motor without attaching the cover or mounting the motor . I then started the van and moved the temp select If the movement of the gear ring maxed out before I ran out of temp range the I pulled the big gear and adjusted the indexing. It took 2 or 3 trials to fit the movement band to match the temp range. I then put the cover on and mounted the motor as usual. Seems to be goos to go. The indexing could also be achieved if you had a photo of a motor at max cool or max heat. Sadly I didn’t have that
Unless that motor is burned out JUST OPEN AND CLEAN THE PART.its not hard 2 screws,and about 4 clips and it's comes out and apart.clean all of the black off of the contacts under the big gear and put some new dielectric grease on the contacts.
I took mine apart, cleaned it up, then tested with a 9 volt. The motor worked, but after installing it in the car, it wouldn’t work again. Any ideas in which wires I can test to try to find the issue?
YOU BROKE IT
I have not 100% diagnosed my car yet but highly suspecting the mix motor... honestly there isn't a lot to go wrong in there unless a gear is stripped/jumped time. I might try to be super cheap and find a hobby motor that fits the bill in the guts LOL at any rate thanks for the vid... cool that any number of denso actuators might fit my purpose. I have an RSX. I am an auto tech but have just been plain lazy to fix my car. Been freezing my nurnies off.
codemiesterbeats, note to self.... check for furry rodents first before sticking head under dash, lol.
You seem to be a very good mechanic and very thorough in your explanation you can also tell you really care about what you do. I hope your channel really takes off. And as always keep the camera rolling.
Wrenches and boards, thank you for your comments. I do care about the videos I put out and want them to be of a quality that people can understand step by step, how to do what I'm showing. It's certainly not of professional quality, but for now, it's what I can put out with my limited equipment. Thanks for your kind words and I hope the channel takes off too!
Great idea!
It worked perfect for me for 2 years until my transmission died and I got rid of it.
I just hit my actuator pretty hard with a wrench and it started working again sometimes they just get stuck hope this helps somone. Now my ac blows through my vents
Wow! Thank you
@baggedbunny27, you’re welcome, hopefully it was helpful for you.
FYI, I tried this on my son’s 1998 Honda Accord. The Accord actuator looks exactly like the one from your Odyssey in your video. I purchased the same Cadillac replacement actuator for $15. Unfortunately, the motor in the replacement unit was slightly different that the one from the Accord. The pins are shorter and the end of the axel protrudes further between the pins. I thought about trying to modify the Accord case to make it work, but my son was going back to college and I didn’t want to take the chance of ruining it. The unit seems to work except when the interior is extremely hot.
David Perry , I’m sorry it didn’t fit. I found that there are so many variations of these out there. I took a chance when I ordered mine as well. The sounds like by how you described the symptom is that it is working, but the motor isn’t strong enough to slide the door actuator all the way over. I’m sure there’s a compatible one out there to swap, but finding it will be a crap shoot.
Hey jeff my car was blowing hot air . Mechanic said I have no leaks Freon good but he unplugged the green wire now my air is blowing good he said for 500.00 he will replace it. Seem pretty easy
@Vernard King, I’m not sure which green wire you are referring to. If you’re system didn’t blow cold air, and the mechanic disconnected a green wire and it started blowing cold, that would have nothing to do with your blend door actuator. I am certainly no ac expert, but that sounds more like a bad temperature knob sensor. The way you described it, he bypassed the temperature sensor and forced the ac to run.
@@DIYJeff yes after removing the wire that plug into actuator I have no heat
Great. When I saw the price I just felt it must be a rip off. thanks a bunch.
davidebratton, you're welcome!
Very very useful. Thank you so much. I give you a great and big thumb up
@Rigal Rouzier, you're welcome. I wish someone had a video out there for me when I ran into the issue so I wanted to help others.
Thanks so FREAKING much. I thought I broke it!!!
You're welcome. Glad the video was helpful.
2002 Accord and I have the same issue on my mode actuator. When I perform the maintenance, the actuator works through about 3-4 mode changes, then it will just stop working again. Any idea what the issue could be?
@marksumpter1532, that’s a tough one. Unfortunately I don’t have any suggestions. My only thought is the gear wasn’t seated properly or an internal non replaceable part went bad.
i really dont understand how you explain the removal and reinstall so easy , so far i have taken out the glove box,under panels part of my center console (2000 honda accord coupe 2 dr. 2.3L) just to try and see where it all goes , ive only been able to remove the 3 screws and no further. i cant see deep enough under the dash area to unhook the metal rod on the old one to be able to attach tghe new acuator rod. this is rediculous. any advise please!
I can assure you, it wasn’t easy for me either. I had to do some by feel. Once I got it out it was easier to understand how it works because you can then see more with the actuator out.
Great video - hoping your tips will help me fix problems on my Audi A4 (UK). Heating core working fine but not directing heat up towards the windshield an also the heating is blowing cold on the drivers side although the heating is set at the same temperature for both sides. Thanks
@Michael McGlinchey, sounds like this could be your fix.
I’m having a problem with my 2011 Honda CR-V blows cool out the driver and warm out the passenger 😢
It is also referred to by Honda as the Air Mix Control Motor (Driver Side or Passenger Side)
Kalon Reeves, thanks for the comment. This particular actuator is just one for both sides. It's purpose is solely the blending of hot and cold air. Since making this video I also found out there is one for the rear HVAC system as well. Which makes sense when the rear of the vehicle never had a problem with temp control. Only the front.
Nice video. You could have moved the final output gear at same position like the old one,after removing the motor. And then put the motor back.
But the plug was wrong on the new one. Thats why he swapped the motor.
I have a 99 accord v6 with that same set up there’s only two Dow pins that half to be lined up is that correct I didn’t feel one on right side just two in front
Hi, thanks for your question. I’m not sure on your specific actuator as there are so many different small variations of actuators for different vehicle years and models. I guess if you put it back together and it works then mission accomplished :-)
Thank you! Great video and information!
You're welcome!
The orientation of the new actuator is way off the instructions says not to try to bench spinning the shaft but it does not line up to my bracket in my Pilot , any suggestions how to go about this
@yeyo lara, I’m presuming you purchased an entirely née actuator. I would need more background of your situation. Which actuator did you purchase? Are you following my steps of disassembling the new actuator to harvest the motor or are you just trying to use the new actuator?
@@DIYJeff
Yes I purchase a new actuator for the hot n cold blend door, the white shaft the comes out of it is completely in a different direction so when I try to install the other white triangle bracket it does not line up but that’s one of my problem, if I plug the new actuator in, my climate controls don’t work for nothing but my rear climate blower turns on full blast by itself,
The original motor had 'LE0616, 12, 2' - and the replacement had 'LQ1015, 10, 1'. the one in my car is 'LH0218, 11, 4'. All look the same. Is this just a possible serial number and not a model number and thus interchangible? Thank you!
@lorddabber3016, that’s certainly possible. If they look 100% identical my bet is that it would work.
@@DIYJeff Thank you for the reply!
car makers thinking about making their parts a little more different to prevent this kind of cheap fixes lol sad but true!
Danny, yep. It's all a numbers game for them. It's sad for the consumer and profitable for manufacturer.
I have a 2005 Acura TSX. I took out the part, cleaned it, tested it with a 9 volt; it worked. Upon plugging it back into the wiring harness in the car, back to not working. All fuses that I can find that might be related are fine (no other issues…I assume this part would share a fuse with other parts). Any ideas on where to check wires and connections? I’m thinking it’s not getting power or lost a ground…?
@halo9lady, I'd suggest testing the plug from the vehicle side that plugs into the actuator to make sure it's sending 12v. Hook up you're volt meter and then turn the switch that should be activating the actuator. If you get nothing then work you're way backward to the fuse box. It could be a ground. It's going to be a lot of trial and error. Chasing wiring issues is time consuming.
@@DIYJeff thank you so much!
My odyssey has heat and AC, but I can't control where it goes. My modes won't change from face, feet, defrost, etc...
There is a separate actuator that controls the flow of where the air goes. Unfortunately I don’t have a video in that one.
@@DIYJeff Don't worry, I got it... Thanks!
I have a 1998 and my lever is stuck in the middle . Its just not moving anywhere left and right
@Leon Ugurlu, it sounds like your motor is dead and you need a new actuator or to replace the motor like I did in the video. You may be able to find a complete new actuator on eBay or Amazon for cheap without having to actually replace the motor like I did in my video.
Watching from France..Good morning...I have a problem with my Honda jazz 2005..Resistor ,two sensors oxygen,Module replaced and still the same problem...No heater and switchs d'ont function...Can you help me to solve the problem or must I do the same as you..Merci..Thanks Sir..
I have the same problem driver side hot air on AC while passenger cold air. Will this motor fits my 2010 Honda Odyssey? I meant the $14.... motor. Not the oem $130 ish one.
@ben ten, I can't say for certain that the $14 motor would work but it's highly likely. I've had other people tell me they've used this exact same motor on other Honda models.
Would that work for a 2003 Honda pilot I feel like they are basically the same engine set up?
I don’t know if the actuator for the odyssey and pilot are the same, but it’s likely.
Excellent video
Wagner Paz, thanks for the compliment.
@@DIYJeff 👍👍
I have a 00 Prelude, my actuator has wires going from a board to the leads on the motor. I wonder if the DTS motor will fit in my actuator assembly.
I’m sorry, I wish I had the answer for you. But Honda typically uses a lot of interchangeable parts in their cars so maybe?
Hi there so this is my Problem when I turn on the system no matter if is could or hot on the driver side nothing change but on the Passenger side it does work how it suppose to so replacing this part would fix my problem ? the MODE function seems to be working fine is just the Heat and could on the driver site. 2010 CRV EX 4WD.
@kike Perdomo, the actuator in the video only controls defrost, vent, floor, etc. airflow direction. It doesn't control the airflow between passenger and driver side. However, I believe there is a different actuator that controls that feature, but I don't have the shop manual for your vehicle to confirm that.
Hi my question is i got a 1999 Acura TL , I had heat before til it got too hot and I turn the nop to the cold side , so when I’ll turn it back to the heat side all I’ll would get is cold air blowing , til I keep messing around , finally I got heat . So one day same thing happen . Put it on cold then turn it back to heat , all I’ll would get is cold air . Do u think that the problem is the nop and the motor not working
song tuy , it sounds by the way you explained it, that it’s the same type of issue I covered in my video. When the motor in the actuator starts going bad, sometimes it will work and others not. Then after awhile the motor gives out completely. One way to test it is to see if you can locate the actuator under the dash and watch the actuator arm as the move it from hit to cold on the dash dial. Also try to manually move the actuator with your hand. If it moves and you can manually make it hot or cold, then it’s definitely the actuator that’s the problem.
DIY Jeff Thank Jeff it the motor got the heat to work now , your video help me out a lot , if not I’ll would have to take it to a mechanic that would charge me a arms and leg , thank you
song tuy , that’s awesome! It’s great when you can diy a repair yourself and save money.
why is the stabilization activated for a trypod shot??? what a mess
Thank you Jeff for the videos, I have the Honda Odyssey 2004 as well, and have had many of the same electrical issues - clock light, odometer light, sliding door lock actuator, rear window actuator and damper go out. Is it just a Honda 2004 thing? or Honda thing for the electrical items to go bad do you think? Also, your instructive videos are encouraging me to try to take care of these items.
You're welcome. I'm glad you're getting some encouragement from it. To be honest, cars were never made to last as long as we drive them. Mechanical and electrical things just break down over time. Our Odyssey's are 14 years old. But honestly, at 224k miles, mine is still running great! My wife had an 05 CRV that had similiar issues. It's just the nature of owning an older vehicle. Honda's are much better than Ford's and Chevy's. I've owned ford most of my life (this is my first honda) and I had all these problems not long after 100k. Those vehicles never made it to 150k. Be encouraged that you have a great vehicle that just needs a little TLC. If you do all the work yourself and buy your parts online (Amazon has most of them), you'll save more money buy fixing it than getting a newer, more expensive car. Just my two cents.
Thanks Jeff for quick response and your thoughts, you are right- for the most part Ody has been good. Continued success and thank you again.
Hi DIY Jeff, I just got a 2009 Honda Odyssey where the Heat setting only blows air, the AC works, at O'REILLYs they said it was the actuator. Now, I dropped off a 2005 Honda Pilot at the same location waiting to be auctioned for parts, could I use that Actuator and use it in the Honda odyssey? I need the heat as I drive often at night and in the Sierras. Thanks!!
@Spiritae love2, in theory that should work, but I honestly don't know. Many of the Pilot parts are interchangeable with the Odyssey, and the date range lines up. The best way to know would be to look up the replacement part online for both. If they are the same, then bingo, you're good to make the switch.
why do I want to put a Cadillac part in my Odyssey? I get it!
Hey Jeff. Great video. I have the same the exact same van and I’m a DYI guy as well. There is a lot of confusion on the passenger side vs the drivers side actuator. From my research and hands on investigation so far the drivers side is considered the MODE actuator and way more expensive if replaced with a new one; and more scarce to find. The passenger side that you show seems to called just vent DOOR actuator. I repaired that one myself years ago, works great. Whatever you call them, my drivers side one is making the typical grinding noise when my temperature dial is turned from cold to hot (actually anywhere just above the coldest setting) so, it’s time to do the repair. By chance, have you replaced / repaired it also? If so, any different steps are was it the same process. I’m thinking so but, about the find out.. looking for a heads up, that’s all! Thanks!
@URB Tone, sorry, I just saw your question. No, I never had a problem with the drivers side actuator, but let me know if you did the job and what your experience was compared to replacing the passenger side.
Will that work on 6th generation Honda accord 1998-2002 ? Mine is always getting stucked to heat,and I have to hit the actuator with a small hammer for it to go back to cold setting.
Efren Saclolo, since I did this on my 2004 Odyssey I would imagine it would be very similiar. Other's on all types of Honda's have commented that it worked for them.
What if the cable is broken ?
Hi, BOTH my 2004 Odyssey blend doors quit working at the SAME time. Hoping against hope.. I bought the part shown above for both sides. I replaced the driver's side in about 5 minutes... only to find that it still does not work. So, I have not done the passenger side yet. I figured it may not be both actuators, but for $30 it was worth a try. Any idea why both sides are not working???? The back 4 vents seem to be working fine and blowing cold air while everything in the front blows hot air, but not much comes out those vents. The only thing I can do until it gets fixed is to pull the fuse that operates the cabin blowers. Not a great option in Florida, but better than hot air blowing on you. What could be the problem that both quit???????? Thanks for ANY help with this As a senior citizen... my finances are precious !!!! haha.
and i did also disconnect the metal rods from the new motor side and manually open and close the both blend doors. no change in air temp at all. Just changed if air blew out the bottom, at my feet, or not.
@Barbra Rinehart, so the good news is you have a new door “mode” actuator installed! The bad news is that it doesn’t control the temperature. The passenger blend door actuator is the one that controls, hot/cold. I suggest replacing the passenger side, and enjoy the fresh cold A/C. Hope this helps.
@@DIYJeff Haha... I actually thought... wonder if I replace BOTH of them... will they work? Guess you answered that. Thank you SOOOO much for this video and this answer. MUCH appreciated!!!!!! Will head out soon to do the passenger side. Will let you know how it went!
Ok, I replaced the passenger side motor.. which was a bear to get to. There may have been an easier way to do it but could not find a video... but got it done. Could not see anything but the one arm, which I could not get unsnapped, but managed to pry the casing apart and replace the motor while still attached by the arm. Got the plastic ''pin'' back into the white plastic arm slot and put the screws back in, plugged it in... and now have both hot and cold air!!!!! The weird thing is that neither of the actuators move at all. Why??? I have looked at them before in the past and both move back and forth to open and close the blend doors. Now, both do nothing visible ... but I still have hot and cold air and all blower settings when I turn the dashboard knobs... which is what I care about. But I know these things should be moving, so that bugs me. What did I miss??? (They were not moving when the hot air only was blowing, so that part did not change.)
Thanks
What I guess I should have said was that the arms operated by the actuators and the plastic white linkages are not moving on either side. But I'm guessing you figured that out. I'm a 70 year old woman who doesn't know a lot about this. Haha
First of all, you are awesome…what you did as a 70 year old woman is phenomenal. Second, even if you don’t understand why it now works, it does and you did it!
I’m not sure why you’re not seeing the arms move. That defies the law of physics because if they don’t move, the blend door won’t move, but you’re saying the temperature changes. Is it possible it’s moving just slightly? Anyway, congratulations and be proud of what you were able to accomplish. Changing out the actuator motor while the actuator is still attached to the car is no easy task.
Tnx
I could not seem to be able to remove the end of the rod that connects to the damper show in this video. There is a black piece at the end of the rod that I do not see in your video. Without being able to disconnect the rod from the damper, I cannot take out the actuator from the car. Please help. Thanks.
Kevin Woods, the silver rod that connects to the damper has a black retaining clip like you mentioned. Because of it's location, when filming the video I couldn't get a camera angle to show it. It should lift up, over, and out of the clip with a bit of effort. Be careful not to break the clip.
Got it. Thanks!
Hi, Jeff I have a question I have a 2006 honda odyssey when I start the engine on the back side start making some noise, like clic, clic, clic, and I open the side and I found out the is the ac actuator.
The part the you show and the video, it would work and this vehicle or not thank you.
will me , when you switch from hot to cold, dies the temperature change coming out of the vents. If not then it’s probably the actuator. If it’s clicking but working then the motor is probably going bad. This video would work for 2006 models, but there could be some slight differences in the actuator location. Honda changed the Odyssey a bit in 2005, but it should be similar.
Thanks Jeff.
Turns out I need a mode actuator not a blend actuator. The air in 2000 Prelude is only going to the windshield. Can’t even find anything around referencing this issue on my car.
Jeff great video thanks. I have a 2004 Odyssey. Took the motor off and cleaned the traces on the back side of the gear. Sadly I didn’t mark the indexing of the gear. Are there mark to indicate the correct index? I was going capture a picture from you video to determine the index with the triangular linkage attached. Will that work? Thanks. Jw
jon winchester , I’m sorry, I honestly don’t know but at this point it couldn’t hurt. Since I didn’t pull the gears, only the motor, I didn’t look at the indexing. If you figure it out please post the results in the comment section so others know if it worked or not.
what part would I need for a 1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder? I might try this as well. Thanks.
@Catherine Cawthon, if you’re asking what motor you would need I’m not sure. If you’re asking what actuator you need to replace the whole thing you can find it on Amazon, EBay, or any parts store.
My 2004 Honda Odyssey blows hot air only. Would replacing the blend door actuator with a new one solve this problem. Also how do I calibrate the actuator blend door location relative to the cabine set temperature.
Thank you for the awesome video.
@Tells the Truth, first you need to confirm that the air conditioning is working first. If it's blowing varying degrees of warm/hot when you move the temperature dial then it's probably your a/c system. If however it only blows straight hot no matter where the temp dial, then it is most likely the blend door actuator. There is no calibration needed. When you hook it up, it is auto calibrated.
I did the same thing you did on my 6th generation accord and it worked perfectly last winter 2019,But yesterday it was cold here in high desert so I put it to hot position turned to the right for heat and it went smoothly and I got heated.Later in the day I tried to put it to cold mode but the actuator is not turning again so I hit it with a screw driver and it moved,Why am I back to my old problem I replaced the motor exactly how it is done? Do you know why? Did I get a bad motor?Does it still work on yours?
@Efren Saclolo, I sold mine a year ago so I'm not sure if it still works or not. But it did work for the 2 years I performed the repair before I sold it. It's possible the motor went bad again, but it's also possible that some of the teeth in the gears stripped. If you take it back apart (I know its a pain) and you open it back up, inspect the gears. It's also possible that since the motor just rests against the pins, it wasn't making good contact so that when you hit it, it jostled enough that the prongs made contact again. There's no way to really know without pulling it all back out.
@@DIYJeff Thanks Jeff for the response, Come to find out the contact between the pins on the motor is not solid so I soldered the suckered and now it is solid.If this still not work I will just replace it with a new one .Thanks for your video,Helps a lot for people who can not afford parts from the Stealerships.
In actuator plug there are 5 wires. What are the functions of those wires. Please explain the wiring of actuator please. Make a animation video on that or leave a comment regarding those wires
@Talla Mohammed, Not sure about the 5 wires, but the connector itself is a 7 pin connector. The Honda service manual lists them from left to right, 1-7, as you're looking at the pins. The service manual however, does not identify the function of each pin.
Thank you for a great video. I have Honda Odyssey 2012 touring elite. My car AC (itself) is working properly but my vents are not working well. I get the cold and hot but only blowing out from the mid-vent. Not from top or bottom vents. Do you know why it's happening? Thanks in advance. :)
T B, from everything I've read, not only does the door mode actuator in my video control the temperature, but it also controls the vent control. I can't be certain 100%, but my bet is that your problem would be solved with my video.
Hi Jeff, Great video. Question: do you have a rear climate control unit as well? I do. I was wondering if that one single actuator controls the circulation of hot fluid to the rear unit as well? My sense is that it does, as I think there's only one heater core (which is under the dash).
Daniel Karner, you're correct! There is a seperate blend mode actuator for the rear HVAC system. I found a video that gives step by step simple instructions on accessing it. In fact it's much easier than trying to access the one under the dash. Hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/1iTE0N5qosg/w-d-xo.html
Hi thanks for posting. Got your exact part on your link and had to solder motor in and got the actuator to work when plugged in but not installed but when it’s installed, it’s making clicking sounds going one way and it moves maybe 30% and it’s stuck in ac. I’m so glad the unit works now with w motor but the question is Is there any tips anybody got on calibrating it to mesh right when it’s bolted down? I’m sure It will work once I find the right position before I bolt it up. I turned the gear to match what you had in your video. I’m going to take it out and try it again hoping that it will work this time otherwise has anyone else ran into this issue? Thanks in advance.
@Jerry Simeone, you're on the right track. You'll need to line up the gearing. The clicking sound is because the motor is trying to turn the gearing, but the gearing is already at the end of it's cycle.
@@DIYJeff many thanks, got it
I have had to fix actuators on an 07 Accord & 08 Odyssey - on the same weekend. In most cases, the problem is not the motor but the wheel sensor contacts. The sensor and the contacts are under the large white gear and if you do not remove the actuator arm, the gear stays on the other side and you can see it. The symptom for dirty contacts is you get hot air instead of cold but if you go to max cold, suddenly you get very cold air. So the motor works. SO - if you have gone to all the trouble of removing and repairing the actuator motor, while it is apart I would also clean up the contracts to avoid future problems. Here is a excellent video on what to do. th-cam.com/video/jWcWUlbksco/w-d-xo.html
I just wish I had seen these videos before spending well over $300 on two new actuators. At least I saved a lot in dealer labor costs.
Michael Wanninger, Thanks for sharing your experience. In my case, I was able to get underneath the dash with my head and watch the actuator arm move before I removed it from the vehicle, so I could see that the motor was working, but just didn't have enough force to move the arm all the way.
This video helped me took but my contact wheel had the worn out. I bought the Caddy blend motor and replaced the large gear to get mine working. Thanks Jeff!!
Thanks Michael. This worked for my 2007 Pilot
Hi Jeff..I am not sure what is wrong with my 1999 Honda Accord LX..everything was working fine and then the lights on the panel went off and so did my ac..it is just blowing warm air out the sides and not in the middle vents..I went to Auto Zone thinking it might have been a fuse..he took the one out and put it back..the ac started working again, lights came back on and off it went after a few seconds. Any ideas on what is causing this..and if this was the same problem, what car part would I use to replace the motor..the same as what you used? I would have to find someone to do this for me unfortunately..not sure a mechanic would do it either. Thank you.
susanmarty26 , you’re issue is definitely not the same as my video. Based on what you explained it’s electrical. It could still be a faulty fuse or something in the wiring between the fuse box and dash panel. I’d suggest first replacing the fuse with a new one. If that doesn’t fix it, someone will have to trace the wiring to the dash and check for a weak or broken wire.
It turns out it's my control panel and it's only a Honda part so I'm getting one that has been refurbished. I also found out there's a bunch of other things wrong but that is what was causing everything to not work.
susanmarty26 sad to hear but at least you know what the problem is now.
@@DIYJeff that's true. I had no idea other things were wrong as well when you have a car my age that's what tends to happen.. my control panel is starting to act strange with some of the lights not lighting up just a shock that it was just a Honda part which costs almost $500 so someone got smart and refurbish the part I'm wondering how much that part would be if I kept it and sold it as is so somebody can do the same thing? Would you have any idea how much I could ask for that I'm being honest of course that it's not working properly. Thank you.
Hello Jeff,very good video very clear to understand,thank you
I little problem with my accord 99 the heather no complitly hot,just warm,the thermostate,radiator,coolant blue is new and still warm,what else I have to do,please i need help.Thanks.
Oscar Gonzalez, I'm not a mechanic but I will do my best to help you. The best way to see if it's the door blend actuator is to locate the actuator up under the dash (like in my video) and twist the temperature control knob on your dash back and forth between hot and cold and watch the actuator to make sure it's moving back and forth. It it's stuck in the middle, that is why you are getting only warm air. What about cold? Will it blow cold or only warm?
Thank you for answer,the AC its not to cold to.
@@oscargonzalez8518, check the actuator with the steps I sent you yesterday and see if it moves. If it doesn't then it's your actuator.
Same problem here, Here is the solution, Get a small hammer and turn your A C on and tell your passenger to hit that actuator under his left foot with a hammer that should move to cold or hot setting.Just like a starter the motor get stucked when old but hit it with a hammer it will wake up and start your car.Don't hit it too hard though!!
I have a similar problem with my 2003 Honda Pilot, but instead of the Heater Door Mode Actuator, it is with the Mode Control Motor that controls where the air vents from, eg. Floor, Windshield/Defrost, etc. Does anyone know if the Cadillac electric motor would also work in the Mode Control assembly AW063700-8770?
Dexter Gonzalez, sorry, I don't have the answer for that question. I only found out about the door mode actuator by taking it apart.
@@DIYJeff incidentally, I swapped out the motors (numbers were different) and it appears to work, but my problem still persists. I have to jog the linkages with my fingers in order to get it to change modes. The large off white cog has more tracks (about 8) on mine than the Heater Actuator which has about 4 tracks so that part can't be swapped.
Dexter Gonzalez, I would suggest verifying that the control knob on the dash that controls the damper that changes the airflow from front vents to defrost etc.. that the switch is working correctly. I'm not familiar with your vehicle to know how hard it is to remove the front fascia behind the knob, but if you can remove it, check for power on the back of the knob and make sure it's sending a signal to the actuator.
I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline with this problem would the motor from the Cadillac also work in those! All 4 have the same little motor only the driver side failed?!
apllDgrapllD, honestly I’m not sure since the actuator in this video is for the air blend actuator under the dash. Aftermarket door lock actuators are pretty cheap. Here’s a link for the whole actuator to the one for your vehicle for only $10 on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_phone_search_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A09351153T1ZMWYI5S9BX&url=%2FMYSMOT-2004-2008-2003-2007-72155-SDA-A01-72155SDAA01%2Fdp%2FB07Y34DHH6%2Fref%3Dmp_s_a_1_1_sspa%3Fdchild%3D1%26keywords%3D2007%2Bridgeline%2Bactuator%2Bdrivers%26qid%3D1591408660%26replacementKeywords%3Dactuator%2Bdrivers%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26vehicle%3D2007-59-2793------------%26vehicleName%3D2007%2BHonda%2BRidgeline%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1591408660&id=1943300528724805&widgetName=sp_phone_search_atf
DIY Jeff no i have a blender door actuator problem like you in this video! I found that the Cadillac sts from around the same year has the same numbers and also from denso on the part! Mine are the same as in your video to thanks!
@@apllDgrapllD, I've heard that Radio Shack might sell just the motor (comment from another TH-camr). Might be worth checking out.
DIY Jeff good idea now to find a radio shack thats still open! 😄maybe a hobby shop?! I ordered a Cadillac sts for 25 hope that motor is the same! Thank you for your help! Immensely it’s hot here!
DIY Jeff just got the 2005 caddilac sts actuator and it’s almost identical to the ridgelines same part number to!
i’m having problems with hearing a clicking noise whenever I turn my heat on, my ac line has a leak so I know that’s a separate fix but my defrost isn’t working. So basically my heat works, my ac doesn’t because of freon leak, and my defrost doesn’t work and i’m also hearing a ticking/clicking noise whenever I use heat. Is this the actuator being broken? Can I use the same fix?
stephen shivery, it does sound like the same problem, although it’s possible that the switch behind tour knob that controls airflow direction is bad. But because you’re hearing a clicking noise it really sounds like the actuator.
DIY Jeff thanks for the quick reply do you think if I get my ac line fixed then do what you did in the video it may fix the problem? if not...how do I fix the turn knob although I can still control air speed right now
stephen shivery, definitely fix the ac first so that diagnosing the other problems is easier. There are actually 2 actuators. The one in my video controls the blend of hot and cold air. So fixing the ac is a necessity to see if that actuator is working properly. The other actuator controls the flow of air from floor, to front vents, to defrost. So if it won’t switch to defrost and you here clicking, it’s likely that actuator is bad and not the switch behind the knob. Not sure what car you have and where that actuator is located, but if you can visually look at it when you switch between vent and defrost to see if it moves all the way, that would be the easiest way to diagnose it.
DIY Jeff thanks again I have an 04 odyssey I now know where both actuators are and will check. Going to get an ac estimate on monday. Greatly appreciate the response! If you don’t mind after the ac repair i’ll confirm what I’m seeing
stephen shivery , sure. I’ll do my best to help. Since I had an 04 I have a service manual for it and can see if it can help as well.
Hi Jeff, great video and very helpful, thanks! I have 2010 CRV which needs driver's side actuator AW063800 (no air from center vents; some air blowing from side vents). I am not getting anything new on eBay for AE063800 or AW063800. Would you know if I purchase AE063700 (same part in your video here) that I will be able to replace that motor inside my actuator AW063800? I have not removed actuator yet from my CRV and do not know the label on the motor. Please let me know of any idea.
Tushar Finavia, the tricky thing is that there's really no way to know if it would work without opening up the old actuator and comparing it. Like I mentioned in my video, I took a chance that the Chrysler actuator would work because it looked almost identical. I'd say there's a good chance because Honda probably uses the same or similiar actuators in most of their vehicles, but there's no way to know 100% unless you just try it.
DIY Jeff Chrysler?!?! Crap!!!! I bought a Cadillac!!!!
Doesn't the mode actuator send the air to different areas vs. changing the temperature? I was thinking that the "blend" actuator was the part that is what handled the blending or changing of the air temperature.
@Tennessee Tracer, you are correct. Each vehicle manufacturer uses different names for parts though. Technically, on the Odyssey the part is called "Air Mix Control Motor" and the control of where the air flow goes is the "Mode Control Motor." It would be nice if vehicle manufactures all standardized part names, but they don't. Testing and removal/installation of these two parts on pages 21-37 and 21-38 of the Service Manual.
Jeff you mentioned that you put the motor in upside down. Is that what destroyed the motor or was the motor bad to begin with?
G Garver, the motor was bad to begin with. It turned, but not with enough force to move the actuator blend door. I took a chance on ordering the cheap actuator that paid off and saved me a lot of money. Hoping to pass on this benefit to anyone else facing the same situation.
I have same problem with my accord 2000 v6. When i want to reposition the vents to my feet or to my face it wont move. Sometimes it does work when it wants to, so annoying. So do you think this will work if i buy the same part that you bought for your van. Will work with mine.
X Tian, there is a different actuator that controls the flow of air to different vents. The actuator I replaced is strictly for the blend of hot and cold air. It's also possible the the contacts on the back of the control knob for vent flow direction are bad and you need a new control knob. But most likely it is the actuator.
@@DIYJeff i don't have problem with the heat or cold control. What I have problem with is how you position the vent from feet or your face etc. That I have problem with. So you think is the actuator? Thank you again for the response.
@@khrisjared1, no. You are having a completely separate issue. There is a separate actuator that controls the control of air. It's possible that this actuator could also have the same problem and so then, yes it could be a similiar issue. But it's definitely a separate actuator.
@@DIYJeff thank you.
Great video, Jeff. I have the same problem in my 2007 Honda Odyssey. I’m going to dig into it tomorrow morning. I am wondering if you or anyone had any luck finding just the electric motor online or at an electronics store instead of the entire actuator.
Tim Rummel, I did look back when I made the video and couldn’t find one, but that’s not to say that they may still be out there. No one has commented on my video about finding or looking for one. If you do happen to find one, please post it to the video so it will benefit others.
What camera did you use to film this video? Looks great.
Titus Castanza , all of my videos are filmed with an iPhone SE. i’m branching out though, and today I started filming my next video with a Sony Sony cam, Sony‘s version of the go Pro. The nice thing about it is that I can get better shots up close like in the video you saw what I had to get up under the dash. It was pretty difficult with an iPhone.
This is slick! Is there a cheap way to replace the blower motor that you know of as well?
@Rob B - CitraSound, there may be, but I've never looked into it.
Great Vid, Thanks. Is there also a door mode actuator on the driver side?? Right now my vents are not opening correctly and just wanted to make sure I get the info right before taking anything apart.
@Peter Foto, Honda calls this the Mode Control Motor and it's not under the driver side dash. It's actually on the far end of the passenger side dash. It looks like maybe you have to remove the side panel on the outside of the dash (the part that butts up against the door) to access it. If you send me an email at diyjeff@att.net I can email you a diagram and instructions from the Odyssey service manual. This of course will only be applicable on 99'-04" models.
@@DIYJeff Hey Jeff, thanks for your reply and help. I'll send you my email right now to get that 04' Honda Odyssey diagram for the Control Motor. Thank you very much for your help. Also let me know if there's a fuse somewhere for that as well.
Will the cadillac motor also work on a 2005 actuator motor.
@Debbie Wowk-Mejia, I can't say for certain, but it should work for most honda's.
DIY Jeff thank you
Hi, Looks like they changed the electric connections on the part. I ordered the part from the link in your description. The motor connectors are soldered. Tried to paste a pic but it will not take the paste of the pic.
Are the motor connections similar looking to this video yet soldered to the new actuator housing? You might be able to use a soldering iron on the connection. Use a screwdriver or toothpick to test the solder joint rather than trying to pull it apart by force so that you don't damage the connection to the motor.
Yup he should Sticky this....got to **Desolder** wires from motor(no big deal if you have a solder gun) I did and actuator works just fine
Is the process just the same as a 04 Honda pilot
Cam'ren Williams , not 100% sure, but I’ve been told the pilots are fairly similar.
This is not a door "mode" actuator but rather "blend" or "air mix" actuator. They're completely different.
Why not just buy the motor they cost like 3 dollars at radio shack or eBay... I've replaced motors on door lock actuators paid like 2 dollars a piece, the actuator assemblies were over 200 bucks for a Lexus gs400
@rojasr2, if Radio Shack has them then that would be a great option. The markings on the old motor didn't pull anything up on google when I looked, which is why I went the ebay actuator route.
That is not the mode actuator, it is the blend actuator, the mode actuator is on the driver`s side...
I have a Honda pilot that gives me a similar problem but no hot air at all
DarkCloudSilverGlint torres, it’s possible the heater core is leaking. One way to see if it’s the actuator like the video is to get your head up underneath the dash with a flashlight and see if the actuator is working when you turn the dial from cold to heat. If it is, then it could be your heater core. If the actuator doesn’t move then it’s the actuator.
@@DIYJeff I work on it all day today I partially remove the center console and part of the dash, looking for the heater control valve and I couldn't found it, I call the Honda dealership they told me that this model doesn't have a control valve. I flush the system and still one heater hose gets hot and the other one not...at this point I'm thinking on removing the thermostat see if makes any difference... every actuator blower (double unit) seems to be working fine.
Now why in hell couldn't Kia place their damn actuator flat like this instead of vertically where you can't get a screwdriver in there to uninstall the old one, without disassembling half of the damn dashboard?!?!
OMG🤬🤬🤬
R Boyd, probably because the engineers don't think about the person doing DIY repairs, nor do they really care. Were you able to get youre's out?
@@DIYJeff
Actually no...
Lol. My dash is still in pieces atm.. 1 week and counting..
Such is the life of a mechanic 🤣🤣..
Work on everyone else's car all day, and not one care about the one I'm driving.. lol..
But I do have a portable heater for my van.. 👈😱not hooked up proper either..
Sooner or later I'll get it done..
This is a blend door actuator not a mode actuator. Please fix the title.
Jeff, Outstanding video and brilliant idea of swapping out only the motor! I may be trying the same approach on a 2010 Honda Accord. How did you determine that the Cadillac actuator had the same motor? I'm anticipating that I'll have to find a different motor for the 2010 model. -(Also) Jeff
KingBaconMonger, I had to make an educated guess to find which actuator would work. I scoured the internet in frustration to find the honda one at an affordable price to no avail. But in my searching I noticed that some of the actuators looked very similiar. So I started looking at every actuator I could find until I found one that was identical to mine, except the connecting pins were different. I realized at that point that the same manufacturer was making most of the actuators and then customizing the pins for each car manufacturer. When I ordered the cadillac one I wasn't sure until I opened it up, but it worked. Hope that helps you in your search.
@@DIYJeff Great fix and great catch that this actuator and the Cadillac were basically the same!
You should really change all those gears you while you're in there.
Great topic for a DIY video. C+ for the final grade.
You could have easily Re- recorded the disassembly of the covers as you did for the actuator when you realized you put the motor in backwards. You can use a thermometer to verify the temperature for the viewers, we don’t need to “take your word”. You pass because of the very neat way you solved the financial problem. You should have verified the motor to match the original though. I think you should have re recorded and edited the video. You could have made this an A+ video with a little bit of effort.
@Gold Wolf, thanks for the kind words.
You could have simply order a replacement motor. Guess what else uses that same motor.....damn near every blend door actuator assembly. It doesn't even have to LOOK like yours. Who knows these things? I do. Need just the motor? Hit me up.
I did a similar repair on a Lexus power door lock module. A gear puller and a few RC car motors and i was good to go. Wonder if it's the same motor as shown here (I did this a few years ago...)
I would like to source one of these motors, if you'e be so kind . . .
@@rexclingan1349 search on 10mm Door Lock Motor Actuator
Thanks. The motors I see on ebay with this search term are flattened circle in profile and lack the contact pins in the Honda actuator. Can they be used, or is there a more specific search that works?
If 10 mm is meant to be the diameter of the can, it isn't. 24 mm is much more like it, like Mabuchi RF-370CB-081100.
Consume mass quantities.
Jonathan Waggoner, not sure what that means, but thanks for the comment.
@@DIYJeff The Coneheads..