I know it's a little late, but there is an easier way to install the new fuel lines at the same time you remove the older ones. I did similar work on my 86 gal aluminum tank: 1) Buy a wooden dowel equal in diameter to the inside of the hoses you are replacing. 2) Cut the dowel down to about 6" - 8". and insert the dowel halfway into the end of the existing line and screw the hose to the dowel. 3) Insert the other end of the dowel into the end of the new hose so that you have an end to end connection of the existing and new hoses. Tape over the screw heads for a smooth transition. 4) Pull the old hose out at the same time you push the new hose in place. 5) Trim the ends of the new hose to remove the screw holes.
I’ve used the marine Tex on my tank with some pitting and it worked great. I also used it on a pump housing under 30lbs pressure and it hasn’t leaked yet. Next year I’m going to fabricate a new aluminum tank for mine . Great video
You did a great job on restoring that boat I do believe it might have actually been worse than. Mine was. It's such a rush when it's all done a d you see people at the do k staring at it in awe of whst you accomplished .
Thanks Dave! We had no idea what we were doing and just jumped in. And now is when we’re finally trying to make it look nice and acceptable. We’re gonna show every step of it too. 🤙
If you must patch it, I would reccomend patching the tank with gflex epoxy on 1708 with the mat side down. Gflex has a track record on aluminum and plastic. I personally patched a plastic tank i accidentally drilled through with gflex. Worked great. BTW, great work. We have 27 ft grady islander and are in the process of refurbished the starboard side stringers.
Thanks for the tip! I originally wanted to use glass over the tank and at last minute decided to go with the marine Tex. We appreciate the kind words! You should post some vids of the build! We’d love to see it! Not too many vids of people fixing up their Grady’s. Good luck and hopefully you get out on the water soon! 🍻
The bedliner you use is a water-based product. I would have gone with a urethane-based product such as raptor liner for better results and more permanent resistance to the fuel. Also, you really should have laid it on thicker in my opinion. That said, you did say it was a temporary fix. Love the videos. Keep them coming
@@perfectfitboating One of my first boats was a 1985 Grady 197 tournament. I went through much the same experience as you have gone through. I can personally relate to 90% of what you're posting. It makes me laugh because I remember thinking. Am I crazy, obsessed or just making poor decisions? Then I realize what the vote was worth after I finished and what it would have cost me to buy one do and I was extremely happy and proud with what I had done. You will be as well. I boat over at the haul over Sandbar every now and then, so maybe we'll run into each other. So I'll be sure to say hello if I see you
@oceanairbrush you know what’s even funnier? Next week we’re picking up Alieys dad’s boat to re do the transom. And it’s a 1985 Grady tarpon I believe. Dual console! I often ask myself if I’m crazy! But when we go to these boat shows I realize I’m just a little crazy and saving tons of money lol. If you ever see us out there please say hi! We’ll grab a beer and shoot the sh*t for a bit! Cheers!🍻
The tank had fuel in it so I turned it and saw where the fuel was coming out of. I also inspected it closely with a wired hair brush and anywhere there was corrosion I just brushed it clean. Then I just used the epoxy putty like in the video. Thanks for the comment brother! The electrical work came out great! Just gotta try to work on my neatness! 🤙
Thanks! I have a buddy of mine that fishes commercial and he made a similar repair but without the bedliner paint. He’s had it for 5 years with out any issues. Best is to replace it. But that’s an $1800 expense we’re not willing to pay right now lol. Once we upgrade motors we’ll change out the tank
Good stuff man. You undertook a massive project for sure. I'm restoring a Sailfish 274 right now. One of the rare Diesel sleds. I'm hoping you got the thing for free having to do all that work. Looks like a nightmare honestly. I would have passed on it for sure. I actually came to this video because you guys said you were going to say how much you paid for the boat. If you need some advice, let me know.
Thank you for the kind words! We paid $700 for this thing! So, not free but pretty darn cheap! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a diesel sailfish! Do you have videos up? I’d love to see the restore! Thank you so much for offering your help! 🍻
IMO don’t think bondo and spray painting a leaking corroded fuel tank is the place to save money. Best case, you bought some time before it leaks again, worst case…….kaboom!
Well it’s not bondo and spray paint. It’s epoxy paste, etching primer then truck bed liner. It’s been over a year with no leaks and I don’t see how it would explode anymore than a leaky tank. Either way, we do plan on changing her out in the future. Thanks for the comment!🤙
@perfectfitboating I have s 2981 G.W 24 offshore, and I unleavened it with tge ropes it looked like it was being held by.but it appears that it's stuck by foam .that's why I ask .also would like to rewire ir ...ant suggestions. I'm new to this
@nwrx247 is your tank in the rear or front compartment? If it’s in the rear you have more space to get leverage. I’d try to take out as much foam as possible first. Dig as much of it out as you can. Then if possible find a long enough piece of wood to go across the beam of the boat on both gunnels. Then tie straps to the fill and the pickup tube and tie that to a come along on that beam. Slowly ratchet up till it comes loose. Foam is a bear to release so try and get as much of it out as you can. Hope that helps!
Is something happens would your insurance cover anything that happened because of that repair or are you selling it to someone else and would they be aware of the repair
@@perfectfitboating What did you guys use to clean out the inside of the tank (products, solvents, tools)? Also, how did you remove the tank? The wedges around the side were reluctant to budge in mine making a simple two man lift impossible. Big fan of your channel by the way I just found it this week. I have a 1985 Grady 24 offshore as well with very similar... age related injuries. Nothing the TLC can't fix like you have proven in your videos. Great boat!
Hey Andrew! We were instructed to use something as simple as dawn detergent and water. We sloshed that around over and over again then hit it with some pressure. Since our tank had oil and fuel mixed previously, this method cleaned it out extremely well! I think the going rate for a tank clean is $500. To remove the tank it was fairly easy. Our tank was in the rear access hatch and was not foamed in. It was a tight fit to get her out but she came out just fine. You might want to get a multi tool and cut down the wedges if they’re stuck then just make new ones. That’s funny we have the same boat! I gotta say it’s very sea worthy, has tons of space and serves us well. And for the cost of a new boat I think you can fix up 5 of ours! 🤣 Oh, last thing. If you’re taking out the tank, consider moving it to the forward compartment. It really helps balance the boat and keeps the bow from coming up too much. We don’t have trim tabs and we heard they like to hit hard if you don’t trim down. So far it hasn’t been too bad unless it’s a quartering sea! And, despite what I read online, it’s not that wet of a boat!
It's going to be like new by the time you get this boat done.. Great video.
That's the plan! Or at least come close! 🙌🍻
@@perfectfitboating loll.. I like that plan. 👍😁
I know it's a little late, but there is an easier way to install the new fuel lines at the same time you remove the older ones. I did similar work on my 86 gal aluminum tank:
1) Buy a wooden dowel equal in diameter to the inside of the hoses you are replacing.
2) Cut the dowel down to about 6" - 8". and insert the dowel halfway into the end of the existing line and screw the hose to the dowel.
3) Insert the other end of the dowel into the end of the new hose so that you have an end to end connection of the existing and new hoses. Tape over the screw heads for a smooth transition.
4) Pull the old hose out at the same time you push the new hose in place.
5) Trim the ends of the new hose to remove the screw holes.
Damn! Where was this comment 2 years ago!? 🤣🤣 thank you buddy. Next time I’ll definitely do that! 🤙🌊🛥️
Very helpful. I found 3 items I need for my tank project.
Awesome! I’m glad it helped you! 🍻
I’ve used the marine Tex on my tank with some pitting and it worked great. I also used it on a pump housing under 30lbs pressure and it hasn’t leaked yet. Next year I’m going to fabricate a new aluminum tank for mine . Great video
Thanks Gary! The marine Tex worked great. Been over a year and zero leaks! We’ll eventually get a new tank too! 🤙🌊🛥️
Nice work man!
Thank you buddy!
Man that looks like alot of fun, did you ever replace?
@@duartepaintinghandymanservices no sir! Still going strong no issues at all! 🛥️🤙🌊
@@perfectfitboating that's awesome
You did a great job on restoring that boat I do believe it might have actually been worse than. Mine was. It's such a rush when it's all done a d you see people at the do k staring at it in awe of whst you accomplished .
Thanks Dave! We had no idea what we were doing and just jumped in. And now is when we’re finally trying to make it look nice and acceptable. We’re gonna show every step of it too. 🤙
If you must patch it, I would reccomend patching the tank with gflex epoxy on 1708 with the mat side down. Gflex has a track record on aluminum and plastic. I personally patched a plastic tank i accidentally drilled through with gflex. Worked great.
BTW, great work. We have 27 ft grady islander and are in the process of refurbished the starboard side stringers.
Thanks for the tip! I originally wanted to use glass over the tank and at last minute decided to go with the marine Tex.
We appreciate the kind words! You should post some vids of the build! We’d love to see it! Not too many vids of people fixing up their Grady’s. Good luck and hopefully you get out on the water soon! 🍻
Sent you an email with links to our project
Awesome! Thanks so much!
The bedliner you use is a water-based product. I would have gone with a urethane-based product such as raptor liner for better results and more permanent resistance to the fuel. Also, you really should have laid it on thicker in my opinion. That said, you did say it was a temporary fix. Love the videos. Keep them coming
Youre 100% correct. Just temporary till we get a bigger tank put in. We got more coming! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating One of my first boats was a 1985 Grady 197 tournament. I went through much the same experience as you have gone through. I can personally relate to 90% of what you're posting. It makes me laugh because I remember thinking. Am I crazy, obsessed or just making poor decisions? Then I realize what the vote was worth after I finished and what it would have cost me to buy one do and I was extremely happy and proud with what I had done. You will be as well. I boat over at the haul over Sandbar every now and then, so maybe we'll run into each other. So I'll be sure to say hello if I see you
@oceanairbrush you know what’s even funnier? Next week we’re picking up Alieys dad’s boat to re do the transom. And it’s a 1985 Grady tarpon I believe.
Dual console!
I often ask myself if I’m crazy! But when we go to these boat shows I realize I’m just a little crazy and saving tons of money lol.
If you ever see us out there please say hi! We’ll grab a beer and shoot the sh*t for a bit! Cheers!🍻
@@perfectfitboating you are not kidding, with the prices of new boats nowadays. I do not understand how everyone is not doing this
How did you discover the pin holes and did you video the patch you referred to?? Thanks. Nice job, electrical work looked solid.
The tank had fuel in it so I turned it and saw where the fuel was coming out of. I also inspected it closely with a wired hair brush and anywhere there was corrosion I just brushed it clean. Then I just used the epoxy putty like in the video. Thanks for the comment brother! The electrical work came out great! Just gotta try to work on my neatness! 🤙
Nice work, I hope that tanks holds up for you. Knock on wood I have not had to deal with a fuel tank issue yet.
Thanks! I have a buddy of mine that fishes commercial and he made a similar repair but without the bedliner paint. He’s had it for 5 years with out any issues.
Best is to replace it. But that’s an $1800 expense we’re not willing to pay right now lol.
Once we upgrade motors we’ll change out the tank
@@perfectfitboating Sounds like a good plan. BOAT Bust Out Another Thousand. LOL
Brother you got that right! 😂
Good stuff man. You undertook a massive project for sure. I'm restoring a Sailfish 274 right now. One of the rare Diesel sleds. I'm hoping you got the thing for free having to do all that work. Looks like a nightmare honestly. I would have passed on it for sure. I actually came to this video because you guys said you were going to say how much you paid for the boat. If you need some advice, let me know.
Thank you for the kind words! We paid $700 for this thing! So, not free but pretty darn cheap! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a diesel sailfish! Do you have videos up? I’d love to see the restore! Thank you so much for offering your help! 🍻
@@perfectfitboating i only have pics at this point. Id be happy to share offline
@@Spicy-Tuna yeah we’d love to see them! Shoot us an email perfectfitboating@gmail.com
@@perfectfitboating righteous. Will do
IMO don’t think bondo and spray painting a leaking corroded fuel tank is the place to save money. Best case, you bought some time before it leaks again, worst case…….kaboom!
Well it’s not bondo and spray paint. It’s epoxy paste, etching primer then truck bed liner. It’s been over a year with no leaks and I don’t see how it would explode anymore than a leaky tank. Either way, we do plan on changing her out in the future. Thanks for the comment!🤙
How did u remove the tank .like how u pulled it out
We yanked it out by hand. It’s not foamed in so it came out fairly easy.
@perfectfitboating I have s 2981 G.W 24 offshore, and I unleavened it with tge ropes it looked like it was being held by.but it appears that it's stuck by foam .that's why I ask .also would like to rewire ir ...ant suggestions. I'm new to this
@nwrx247 is your tank in the rear or front compartment? If it’s in the rear you have more space to get leverage. I’d try to take out as much foam as possible first. Dig as much of it out as you can. Then if possible find a long enough piece of wood to go across the beam of the boat on both gunnels. Then tie straps to the fill and the pickup tube and tie that to a come along on that beam. Slowly ratchet up till it comes loose. Foam is a bear to release so try and get as much of it out as you can. Hope that helps!
@perfectfitboating in the front ,with a pull chain .I just yanks it .working by myself it took a little time amd alot of effort but it's out the boat
@@perfectfitboating I meant to say 1981.gradsy white.
Is something happens would your insurance cover anything that happened because of that repair or are you selling it to someone else and would they be aware of the repair
Youre assuming. You know what they say about those that assume.
so, you didn't address anything on the inside of the tank? or did I miss that in the video?
We cleaned the inside of the tank but that wasn’t in the video.
@@perfectfitboating What did you guys use to clean out the inside of the tank (products, solvents, tools)?
Also, how did you remove the tank? The wedges around the side were reluctant to budge in mine making a simple two man lift impossible.
Big fan of your channel by the way I just found it this week. I have a 1985 Grady 24 offshore as well with very similar... age related injuries. Nothing the TLC can't fix like you have proven in your videos. Great boat!
Hey Andrew! We were instructed to use something as simple as dawn detergent and water. We sloshed that around over and over again then hit it with some pressure. Since our tank had oil and fuel mixed previously, this method cleaned it out extremely well! I think the going rate for a tank clean is $500.
To remove the tank it was fairly easy. Our tank was in the rear access hatch and was not foamed in. It was a tight fit to get her out but she came out just fine. You might want to get a multi tool and cut down the wedges if they’re stuck then just make new ones.
That’s funny we have the same boat! I gotta say it’s very sea worthy, has tons of space and serves us well. And for the cost of a new boat I think you can fix up 5 of ours! 🤣
Oh, last thing. If you’re taking out the tank, consider moving it to the forward compartment. It really helps balance the boat and keeps the bow from coming up too much. We don’t have trim tabs and we heard they like to hit hard if you don’t trim down. So far it hasn’t been too bad unless it’s a quartering sea! And, despite what I read online, it’s not that wet of a boat!
If you went thru all that work to pull and temporarily repair the tank and reinstall, why not just replace it with a new tank ?
Because it’s $1800 for a new one
@@perfectfitboating yes it is unfortunately
Well if you think about it if the patch doesn't hold in the boat blows up due to fuel fumes it won't matter