I just ran into this Sir. LoL. I went to the auto parts store and they instructed me that the 195 works well with these vans. So after playing atound with the different ones while Burping the system; it finally ran right. But i did have to park on an incline with the front end facing upward and the radiator cap off.
Iam your newest subscriber i have a 1988 chevy G20 camper van i need to flush my colling system really bad i flushed it years ago with vinegar and water it cleaned it really good . i never knew how to get air out glad i watched your video. i need a new radiator too
Thanks for the idea! I've done radiator (repair) videos on motorcycles before, but the one in van is doing great for now. If I ever pull it, I'll tape it! Thanks
great video,, I have the same problem and you just answered most of my questions, what tools were needed? I have knock on lower end from overheat, is there an easy fix, like thicker oil, or oil additive? engine runs strong just knocks now, any ideas?
If the knock is lower rod bearings you can pull the pan and replace them. Do not use oversize. They are for rebuilds after machining the crank. Replace with new of whatever size is in there now and see how it goes. If this doesn't work it's rebuild time. If the noise is a walking cam, you'll live with it until a new cam with new bearings is installed. I've run 20 50 to help with beat up old engines but that is a last resort before a rebuild because thicker oil doesn't flow and clean as well so you want to fix the injury and not use aband aid
As for additives... I hate the false marketing that comes with companies selling a mechanic in a can. However..... if you are running a flat tappet cam like myself you really do need to add zinc to the oil. Modern cars run rollers so the oil companies don't put zinc in anymore but for old designs like ours (flat lifters hydraulic or not) zinc additives seem to triple cam life. I use the stp blue regular zinc or the tan bottle high mileage zinc whatever is available just make sure the purpose of the additive is specifically to add zinc and its not a generic additives with a little bit of zinc included
My buddies 89 G20 is having start up issues. We've replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, ignition coil. It'll crank but won't start sometimes. Any ideas on what else to look for??
Probably needed the "Ignition Module " inside the Distributor, replaced, to fire up the Sparkplugs. I Don't know if there is a " Crank Sensor " --- that could be worn out over the Years, may need Replacing. My experience with Crank Sensors Going Bad is : the Vehicle would run Good until it Heated Up - ( about 5 miles then the Engine would Die.... While Driving... At any given Speed, then after Safely Coasting Over to the Side of the Road or Freeway... Letting it cool Down for 5- 10 minutes, The Vehicle would Start , and Run again instead of Just " crank ". Then I replaced the Sensor, for about $45.00 It only had 1- thin bolt holding it in Place... On the Driver's side of the Engine. I understand that cam sensors can produce the same Symptoms. You Probably Repaired Your Vehicle Already --- But We are Curious --- to find Out How You Solved the Issue. Maybe You could Answer Nack Here, and Let us Know. Thanks , in advance, BillinL.A. 10-24-21.
Hello...!! Thanks for Your G20 Videos....As I have a 1990 5.7L conversion Van. I am curious about the Jumper Cable running across Your Fan Shroud....What's the Story on That...? Maybe it's a Project We Need to Do Also...? BillinL.A. 10-24-21.
Hi. I have the same van...exact. I currently have a hard time getting heat. I don't have any leaks, so I'll check my thermostat. But I wanted to bring something to your attention about our vans. Mine in particular, the fan clutch is stuck. No matter the conditions, the fan ALWAYS spins. I'm convinced that is one of the problems with little heat conditions. I plan on replace that fan with an electric fan. Have you considered that for yours? I can provide the link to the one I purchased. Thanks for the videos. It's hard to find in-depth information for our classics.
The fan will always spin, for sure, but the clutch will FORCE it to a ONE TO ONE relationship after it gets hot. Otherwise, it's still spinning enough to take a finger, but not to cause area drag....... Yes I've done electric fan conversions on old chevys, but this one had a new crate engine with a warranty so i left it stock to protect the warranty.
The fan clutch locking to full on will wear on your belt, and cause drag, but it will NOT cause a lack of heat in the vehicle. Lack of heat on the inside is a function of the thermostat not letting the engine block temp rise properly, and/or the heater system not getting air through the heater core and back out into the cab. The fan behind the radiator has no effect on a lack of heat if the thermostat is working and hot water is going through the heater core
Hello... It would be appreciated if You could List the Electric Fan Conversion purchase info. Here , for the Rest of Us , with G20 ' s... Thanks in advance... BillinL.A. 10-24-21.
Subd. The more g20 videos you put up the happier i am! Thank you!
I just ran into this Sir. LoL. I went to the auto parts store and they instructed me that the 195 works well with these vans. So after playing atound with the different ones while Burping the system; it finally ran right. But i did have to park on an incline with the front end facing upward and the radiator cap off.
Iam your newest subscriber i have a 1988 chevy G20 camper van i need to flush my colling system really bad i flushed it years ago with vinegar and water it cleaned it really good . i never knew how to get air out glad i watched your video. i need a new radiator too
Good Video. Thank you from Germany!
You should do a video about removing the radiator, love your content! Thanks for all you do already ✌️
Thanks for the idea! I've done radiator (repair) videos on motorcycles before, but the one in van is doing great for now. If I ever pull it, I'll tape it! Thanks
Radiator video done!
THANKS !!!!!!
Any idea where the sender is? Just replaced my thermostat.. no leaks.. temp gauge not working at all. Stays on cold.
great video,, I have the same problem and you just answered most of my questions, what tools were needed? I have knock on lower end from overheat, is there an easy fix, like thicker oil, or oil additive? engine runs strong just knocks now, any ideas?
If the knock is lower rod bearings you can pull the pan and replace them. Do not use oversize. They are for rebuilds after machining the crank. Replace with new of whatever size is in there now and see how it goes. If this doesn't work it's rebuild time. If the noise is a walking cam, you'll live with it until a new cam with new bearings is installed. I've run 20 50 to help with beat up old engines but that is a last resort before a rebuild because thicker oil doesn't flow and clean as well so you want to fix the injury and not use aband aid
As for additives... I hate the false marketing that comes with companies selling a mechanic in a can. However..... if you are running a flat tappet cam like myself you really do need to add zinc to the oil. Modern cars run rollers so the oil companies don't put zinc in anymore but for old designs like ours (flat lifters hydraulic or not) zinc additives seem to triple cam life. I use the stp blue regular zinc or the tan bottle high mileage zinc whatever is available just make sure the purpose of the additive is specifically to add zinc and its not a generic additives with a little bit of zinc included
Sir. I cant believe it. I just ran into the same problem 2 weeks ago.
The problem is that you use failsafe thermostat .
Use regular thermostat
A failsafe thermostat will keep you from overheating and cracking the heads.
My buddies 89 G20 is having start up issues. We've replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, ignition coil. It'll crank but won't start sometimes. Any ideas on what else to look for??
Probably needed the "Ignition Module " inside the Distributor, replaced, to fire up the Sparkplugs. I Don't know if there is a " Crank Sensor " --- that could be worn out over the Years, may need Replacing. My experience with Crank Sensors Going Bad is : the Vehicle would run Good until it Heated Up - ( about 5 miles then the Engine would Die.... While Driving... At any given Speed, then after Safely Coasting Over to the Side of the Road or Freeway... Letting it cool Down for 5- 10 minutes, The Vehicle would Start , and Run again instead of Just " crank ". Then I replaced the Sensor, for about $45.00
It only had 1- thin bolt holding it in Place... On the Driver's side of the Engine.
I understand that cam sensors can produce the same Symptoms. You Probably Repaired Your Vehicle Already --- But We are Curious --- to find Out How You Solved the Issue.
Maybe You could Answer Nack Here, and Let us Know. Thanks , in advance,
BillinL.A. 10-24-21.
Hello...!! Thanks for Your G20 Videos....As I have a 1990 5.7L conversion Van. I am curious about the Jumper Cable running across Your Fan Shroud....What's the Story on That...? Maybe it's a Project We Need to Do Also...? BillinL.A. 10-24-21.
you had to remove the belt tensioner?
Doing multiple things at once. The film editing may focus on just one issue.
Hi. I have the same van...exact. I currently have a hard time getting heat. I don't have any leaks, so I'll check my thermostat. But I wanted to bring something to your attention about our vans. Mine in particular, the fan clutch is stuck. No matter the conditions, the fan ALWAYS spins. I'm convinced that is one of the problems with little heat conditions. I plan on replace that fan with an electric fan. Have you considered that for yours? I can provide the link to the one I purchased. Thanks for the videos. It's hard to find in-depth information for our classics.
The fan will always spin, for sure, but the clutch will FORCE it to a ONE TO ONE relationship after it gets hot. Otherwise, it's still spinning enough to take a finger, but not to cause area drag....... Yes I've done electric fan conversions on old chevys, but this one had a new crate engine with a warranty so i left it stock to protect the warranty.
The fan clutch locking to full on will wear on your belt, and cause drag, but it will NOT cause a lack of heat in the vehicle. Lack of heat on the inside is a function of the thermostat not letting the engine block temp rise properly, and/or the heater system not getting air through the heater core and back out into the cab. The fan behind the radiator has no effect on a lack of heat if the thermostat is working and hot water is going through the heater core
Hello... It would be appreciated if You could List the Electric Fan Conversion purchase info. Here , for the Rest of Us , with G20 ' s... Thanks in advance... BillinL.A. 10-24-21.
The warranty on my crate engine is over so I also installed an electric fan upgrade. See my newer videos for mounting switching and wiring information
where do you run with N2 at?
I have the contract with Dunlop to provide tire service to N2 events.