Really great video! Thanks for posting. Concise and to the point without melodrama and being overly verbose like many other videos. Simply getting it done in one weekend and making it look easy while making a video and narratiing your every move is a great achievement.
Absolutely great way of explaining how things are to be done and what one is going to do for the next steps and what the torque specs are for the job Robert you are hands down one of the best I have watched doing work on a car Stay blessed and may you continue to enjoy your work Thank you
@ValleyRiverAutomotive I saw an electronic torque wrench used. Can you supply the link for that please? Also, in the instructions it says: IF STICK OR SLIPPING then release 180* and re torque, but I noticed you did that anyway. Please let me know why so I understand the process. Thank you so much for the video.
This is the link for the torque wrench: amzn.to/3ZKnSvj I used the 3/8 in the video. For torquing the head backing it off 180* is step 5 in the tightening sequence. So that's a required step. If it starts to make sticking noises when torquing it to 70 lb.ft in step 4 then the manual has you loosen all bolts and start over from step 1.
Hey!! Great video, I'm gonna replace the head gasket on my Subaru, and this video it’s such a great guide!!! I'm wondering if I have to buy new bolds for the heads. ? Also, did you use OEM parts or can be after-market parts? Thank you
@@juanjoseorozco7106 Glad this video is helpful! New head bolts are a must. I went with aftermarket parts. I really like Fel-Pro, I think they make great gaskets. I have links in the description if that's helpful 👍
So, I bought the kit you listed. Just got my heads off today to find that the head gaskets that failed were the exact ones I'm putting back in, obviously meaning this job has already been done once, and failed. There was a note written on the air filter box that the spark plugs were changed 70k miles ago. If I assume that they did this all at once, these gaskets lasted only that amount of miles. Am I to assume that maybe they didn't get the heads machined, leading to failure? It looks like the head bolts are new.
@@BecuzScience719 It's not necessary but it does give you a little more room to work with 👍. The biggest struggle is with the head bolts. Also my local machine shop had me remove them before I could drop it off.
Really great video! Thanks for posting. Concise and to the point without melodrama and being overly verbose like many other videos. Simply getting it done in one weekend and making it look easy while making a video and narratiing your every move is a great achievement.
Thanks for the videos, I'll be doing this job over the holiday weekend. Really appreciate the parts list too.
@@brianmcintyre6407 You're welcome! If you have any questions during your repair feel free to post in the comments 👍
Absolutely great way of explaining how things are to be done and what one is going to do for the next steps and what the torque specs are for the job
Robert you are hands down one of the best I have watched doing work on a car
Stay blessed and may you continue to enjoy your work
Thank you
@@danielrivera3830 Thanks! I appreciate your comment 🙂
Thank you so much
nice job friend thanks for the video
@@Negozenagringa Glad this video was helpful 👍
Awesome video. An excellent reference. But be honest - how many F-bombs were edited out around the 7 minute mark?? 😊
@@idnld1588 I'm not going to lie, getting these heads back in are a pain in the tootie 😂
@ValleyRiverAutomotive I saw an electronic torque wrench used. Can you supply the link for that please? Also, in the instructions it says: IF STICK OR SLIPPING then release 180* and re torque, but I noticed you did that anyway. Please let me know why so I understand the process. Thank you so much for the video.
This is the link for the torque wrench: amzn.to/3ZKnSvj
I used the 3/8 in the video. For torquing the head backing it off 180* is step 5 in the tightening sequence. So that's a required step. If it starts to make sticking noises when torquing it to 70 lb.ft in step 4 then the manual has you loosen all bolts and start over from step 1.
Hey!! Great video, I'm gonna replace the head gasket on my Subaru, and this video it’s such a great guide!!! I'm wondering if I have to buy new bolds for the heads. ? Also, did you use OEM parts or can be after-market parts? Thank you
I just watched the second part and you have everything listed there! Thank you again
@@juanjoseorozco7106 Glad this video is helpful! New head bolts are a must. I went with aftermarket parts. I really like Fel-Pro, I think they make great gaskets. I have links in the description if that's helpful 👍
So, I bought the kit you listed. Just got my heads off today to find that the head gaskets that failed were the exact ones I'm putting back in, obviously meaning this job has already been done once, and failed. There was a note written on the air filter box that the spark plugs were changed 70k miles ago. If I assume that they did this all at once, these gaskets lasted only that amount of miles. Am I to assume that maybe they didn't get the heads machined, leading to failure? It looks like the head bolts are new.
@@danebrown8698 Hmm I'm not sure. Usually Fel-Pro lasts much longer than that. I wonder how many years ago that was?
Why remove the rockers?
@@BecuzScience719 It's not necessary but it does give you a little more room to work with 👍. The biggest struggle is with the head bolts. Also my local machine shop had me remove them before I could drop it off.