I don't know about the redline but the idea behind not overfilling is that machine can not produce enough smoke if there is too much oil to heat. Another great video for the evap beginners.
can't overfill this one. the older unit you could. Maybe that's why the instructions warn you about it. They are probably the same instructions for their older unit
The thing I like most about the smoke system is that it is non invasive testing. This is a big selling point for me since not all evaporation systems are comprised of components rubber hoses and hose clamps and you can introduce leaks into the system just by disconnecting and connecting hoses.
The dealership that i work at has one of these Redline smoke machines, works very well. Have used it a couple of times, with good results. Was able to find the leaks easily. About filling it~ maybe the machine was changed, but the manual has'nt been changed yet. Only way to know is to ask the company. Coincidentally, you posted this video at a good time, i was explaining to someone yesterday about evap codes and finding evap leaks, sent that person the link so he can watch and understand. Thanks for posting this, Paul!
I picked up one of these used on eBay for $450 a few months back...had all the accessories with exception of the capless fuel tank adapter and the EZ Intake. I purchased both and just used the EZ Intake this morning to smoke an intake. It's a great tool...Don't use the paint can smoke machines as you can get fuel vapors coming back into it and possibly start a fire. That's what I heard anyway and it scared me away from them. Love my Redline Smoke Pro!
Concerning the 4.3 liter throttle body to cover air leak. The dry rot seal can be replaced, but with modifications. My 96 Chevy S10 was leaking bad and I purchased a new shaft seal. The height was perfect, the I.D. was perfect, but the O.D. was a few millimeters too large. Had to turn down the seal to the correct size and installed it.
We have the older version of that smoke machine. I have found that using soapy water is typically alot easier to find leaks. There's been a few things I've smoke tested and couldn't find anything but found it with the soapy water.
wait until you see my next upload. soap and water was key as you stated, I could NOT find it with smoke, nor smell any gasoline when I had the smoke machine pumping air into the system
This is because EVAP systems are sensitive to high pressure, according to the manual, even on EVAP service cap, says no more than 1psi. Manuals says that pressurizing the system too high could damage components, I don't know how true is that.
Neat little smoke machine! I need to upgrade from my glorified paint can with no flow gauge. Would be nice to know how big the leaks are.Thanks for showing us this one. Looks like a good quality setup. Very familiar sight towards the end there - under the hood of a GM S-series truck with a 4.3. I used to own one. I swear I spent more time looking at that engine than looking out the windshield, lol. Great engine, but with craptastic components bolted to it. When I yanked it out and slapped an Edelbrock intake and carb on it, and stabbed a HEI distributor in there, it suddenly became reliable. I then put it in a '89 S10 Blazer. Was a fun little winter beater until it rusted away. :)
I bought that exact flowmeter off ebay brand new for $20 and attached it to my SmokeBrake Automotive smoke tester...works EXACTLY as demonstrated in this video. Also, Redline sells 2 types of flowmeters for those just wanting to upgrade their existing machines. Great vid Paul...as usual.
There is an adapter that is a rubber cap that will go on the gas tank filler neck. It's great when your customers bring their vehicle with a full tank.
About Toyota/Lexus evap vent lines: bidirectionaly controlling the vent valve or canister control valve (CCV) will NOT seal the vent circuit of a Toyota evap system even on late model vacuum pump equipped systems. There 's a check valve that allows the canister to vent during refueling(positive pressure), and seals under vacuum. In order to smoke test any Toyota evap system (or at least every model I've seen as a dealership tech) the vent line has to be pinched or plugged. I got once got burned hard by a '14 sequoia with a pin-hole leak in the gas tank because this is never really stated in the service information...
I was wondering why I had a 20 thousands leak with the vent closed. But passed the evap small test on the scanner. 2005 Lexus g470. I tan the test 3 times after I replaced the gas cap and seen a leak on the flow meter. Cleared evap monitor 3 times and passed so now I know
They say to not overfill. Because if you filled to the top of the plug hole threads screw in the plug, when that plug screws in it will create pressure in the system and could damage internal components.
Overfill it and it spills out. Had a funny evap leak a couple weeks ago. Definitely had a leak but could not find the smoke. After a long time, found the leak in the trunk where someone had drilled a small hole in the trunk- into the gas tank!
Lowell Chrzan...YOU DO KNOW THST ITS AGAINST THE LAW TO SHOOT THE GUY THAT DRILLED THAT HOLE, DONT YOU??? Although, you and I both want to take aim, fire, and reload, we just have to sip on our coffee, and shake our heads, roll our eyes, and hope the blood pressure goes down, long before the blood vessel ruptures!!
Not sure where all that came from. This car was a total POS 6 cyl running V8 Northstar Deville wiith leaking heater hose fitting wrapped in tape and zip ties.
I have the same machine, very reliable. However that plastic knob broke on mine within the first week of owning in. Im a big fan of yours Danner! ps smoking out a crankcase is a fun test. right down the dipstick tube can help find oil leaks when its difficult to pinpoint.
Any Tool Supply Business --online,& many distributors, have all the different brands of smoke machines. The Redline is the least safest & as you can see,stressed Paul out, just getting it out of the box. (the school paid for it or it was free, so it works for their purpose) There are adds in all the Automotive Trade Magazines at times, at least in the USA
I bought one on eBay less than 6 months ago...Picked it up for $450 with all the accessories but the EZ Intake. There are deals out there if you keep an eye out. My only complaint is it would have been nice to hold out for the one that doesn't need shop air connected to it.
ScannerDanner...Paul, I think PC Zapp was being humorous about that machine. Talking about the unpackaging/frustration THAT you experienced, thereby possibly causing an elevated stress level/blood pressure and a possible STROKE!!! Unsafe was just a relative term, loosely referring to a situation where you may or may not enjoy the stress/high bp/CVA!
Are you using Baby Oil or Oil Recommended for Evap Systems ? That may be another issue with the Redline Heating System & the baby oil. Take a look at BullsEye Leak Detection,that is a Bernie Thompson at ATS -- Products. But like all his stuff, you need very deep pockets & a need to spend that kind of change for them.
I used mineral oil. Which is supposed to be in the approved fluid. It’s a used machine. I only tested it once and haven’t used it on a car because I’m not sure if it’s normal or not. I’ve looked around an answer and haven’t been able to find one. When you’re checking scanner danners hand for residue you know you need help. Lol
I'm not a Smoke Machine expert,I just read up on equipment before buying,as apparently several folk here are considering. Mineral Oil is not Leak Detection Fluid/Oil Mineral or Baby Oil--is Redline's claim to fame,just do some research before you buy that product. For those making their own machine,baby oil works for them. Most home made products are not used in professional shops.
Hi Paul Still following your video's and enjoying them thinking of buying a pico scope will the model 2206b 50mhz 2 channel do automotive testing, I am new to oscilloscopes and on a limited budged, would appreciate your comments as there are cheaper options if I lower the mhz
Smoke Wizard GLD 40 --that is the only smoke machine you want. Check out all the web sites & videos on it. ASEWave --- has it now for $868.00 but you will have to pay for shipping. There is a company serving veterans & municipalities, that is good to deal with & shipping is free They Do Come in Many Colors --not just yellow & can lay down in your roll cab & DO NOT use Baby Oil & are OEM Approved World Wide.
The Wizard is safer for many reasons. Mainly the heating element verse the Redline heating coil It could be some of the newer machines made in the last couple years, are similar to the Wizards technology, that has been out for many years. The Wizard & Redline are obviously the smallest machine. It has never been recommended to use baby oil, which is a Redline speal The OTC is nice,but it is big & I can not find out what is inside that makes it work,you need to know how they heat the oil.It does however use the Ultra Trace UV Dye, which OEMS Require (if anyone even cares),not the crap the Redline uses. On smoking the fuel tank end of the system,you may want to consider using Nitrogen verse Shop Air.
All the smoke machines will have the same outside features or functions,it is what is inside that matters & what fluid is recommended buy the vehicle manufactures,again, if anyone cares or does the research,before buying one. I have made many calls to these companies & they are lost when I ask, What A/C Power Supply can I use with your machines. We have batteries under the hood,under the rear floors or seat, in the trunk. Your working at the other end of the vehicle,really, why run out out cord & what if you don't want to load the battery while doing diagnostics? We'll let Paul weigh in on that question.
Redline also makes one that doesn't require compressed air. It's the Smoke Pro Air Complete. You can pick them up for much less on eBay than on the RedlineDetection website.
Hey Paul - where did you get your evap tool? I have a smoke tester but I need the adapter to connect to the service port. I normally use my smoke tester to find boost & vacuum leaks.
hi which sensors would cause a no start , ie crank sensor faulty = no injector pulse. and so on would be nice if you do do a video on this topic regards tom
Hey Paul, I have an issue right now that I feel you would know the answer to really quick. The issue isn't related to this video but other 5v reference short circuit videos you have posted. I have a 2001 Honda Prelude that has a p0108 code. When I unplug the pigtail from the map sensor with key on engine off, I test the the three wires assuming one ground, one constant voltage, and one variable voltage for the reference. But when I test with the multimeter I get one wire with 4.7 volts, the ground which I'm not 100% on how to check, and then the third wire gets constant 4.9 volts. I haven't back probed the sensor and tested with key on engine off or koe on while it's plugged in, I only tested koe off with the pigtail unplugged as I previously mentioned. Has my constant 5v wire shorted to the reference wire? How is it possible for the reference wire to get constant 4.9v? To my understanding if the reference wire shorts to ground, I would have low voltage coming from the ref wire to the ecu, but what cause constant high voltage reading? I have recently changed all the grounds on the car, but have double and triple checked them, and went with a lower guage wire just to safe. I also moved the battery to the trunk, and it's not grounded to the fraimrail back there, but to the back wall where the taillights grounded from the factory. Could my issue be a bad ground? The car was getting 12v to everything it needed to in the fuse box and everything else works fine, so it seemed to me the battery ground was a good strong connection. I tried to put a new map sensor on, but I took it right off after I turned the car on and it was still throwing the same code, should I have reset the code it the computer before so quickly assuming I don't need a new map sensor? It seems to me it's an issue with the harnesses somewhere but I don't know. I really could use any input that you have, sorry for the long message but I watched your videos and I know for a fact that if the car was in front of you, you would fix it quick. Please help if you can, and if there's a better way to talk back and forth, def let me know.
A few things, first your terminology is a little off so my answers will be confusing if I don't clarify that first. The constant voltage or power wire is the reference wire (5v reference wire/circuit), which you read 4.9V on. The signal wire had the 4.7 volts on it and this is normal with the sensor unplugged. There is an internal "bleed resistor" in the ECU that is connected between the reference circuit and the signal circuit that will help the computer identify signal circuit problems. What you read on the signal circuit with it plugged in is more important, on your car it should be around 2.9 volts maybe a little less with the key on engine off and should drop in voltage when you start the car. The ground wire can be checked by backprobing, plugged in as well, with your voltmeter still connected to ground on the battery. You should have less than 100mv reading on that test. Let me know and we will go from there. Great questions BTW! You've been paying attention, I can see it. Last thing, you did not tell me what the car is doing other than the code. If you moved the battery to the trunk you absolutely need a ground wire from the block to the body of the car in the front. A heavy ground cable too. Is this also a no crank problem? Or cranks but has weird electrical faults along with this code?
ScannerDanner thanks for your reply, sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you this past week has been kinda crazy for me. The car cranks and runs, but doesn't idle very strong and wants to die when I close the throttle. As soon as it's up to operating temp it does not idle at all and will only run when in gear while it's moving. But it will run when warm if I hold the throttle open. Those are the only other symptoms, only code is p0108 and has no other electrical issues at all. The only symptoms are the no idle condition and a very heavy smell of unburnt fuel, seems to run very rich all the time. I have a 4 guage ground running from the block to the chassis. I have backprobed the sensor, with KOE off the the reference wire has 4.94 volts and the signal wire reads 2.84 volts. With KOE on at idle, the reference wire read 4v to 6v constantly changing; and the signal wire read 2v to 4v never holding steady but always changing. With KOE on at open throttle, the reference wire read 4v to 7v, and the signal wire read 4v to 7v as well, both readings never held steady but constantly changed. With KOE on and the multimeter set to the 200 ohm continuity setting, I attached one end of the multimeter to the chassis ground and the other to the ground wire on the plug and the reading was 38.1 constantly. Is this 38.1mv or 381mv? I think it's 38.1mv but I'm not entirely sure. Is it possible that I just have a bad map sensor? I replaced it but took it off immediately after one start because the code did not clear. Should I have waited longer for the ecu to adjust or removed the code myself via scan tool or unhooking the battery? Thanks for all your help, I wish I could bring the car to you and watch you diagnosis it in person but this is not an option. Hope all is well with you and I look forward to your response!
This has nothing to do with smoke test i have a ford ranger run bad in drive and good in neutral fires right up. Seems like it will not rev past 2000 rpm any help would be great
arbez auto...hey, we did that at the same time!!! But, it looks like you got it in first, tho!! I declare you the OFFICIAL FIRST COMMENT winner!! And the winner gets to clean ScannerDanners classroom for a month!! And the shop for two weeks, because it's dirtier!!! Way to beat me out, bro!! Lucky you!!
+Louis Moscatel - lots of paint can DIY smokers on the internet. I even have one. It's the same with "First Look" pulse transducers and WPS500 in-cylinder compression tester---guys are making their own too.
logical canuck...a simple one can be made at home with the basic materials!! The commercially made ones offer a complete diagnostic aid, complete with many different attachments and materials!! The higher end ones can do many specific tasks, that help with diagnostics!! The total air flow meter is just one added aid, that a smoke machine offers!! The one in this video also includes a light, with battery attachment clamps, that aid in riding the smoke leak!! I'm 110% sure that any competent tech will have a light, but a handy, bright, never needs batteries/charging addition to the machine??
+roadkill5333 +Socket - These commercial machines cost around $1000... I made one for $30...with a flow meter...and I bought a LED UV flashlight for $10 on Amazon which shows the smoke even better that a halogen light as shown here. I won't link the video of my smoke machine build but you can find it on my channel if you're interested.
I really cringe every time I see these so called ASE Certified Mechanics pinch hoses with pliers..( 7:27 ).my grandpa, and father had a box full of rubber colored plugs to cap them (in the 80s)...these new kids are Lumber Jacks...
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
I finally quit smoking, and you show up with a tip on how to get my vehicle to start smoking!!!
I use this tool a lot for finding evap leaks also intake Mansfield leaks. I think I will be investing in the expandable block off tool. I like that.
I don't know about the redline but the idea behind not overfilling is that machine can not produce enough smoke if there is too much oil to heat. Another great video for the evap beginners.
can't overfill this one. the older unit you could. Maybe that's why the instructions warn you about it. They are probably the same instructions for their older unit
you guys up north are real mechanics all i ever do here in south florida for evap vent and purge and vsv valve got the same smoke machine thanks amigo
The thing I like most about the smoke system is that it is non invasive testing. This is a big selling point for me since not all evaporation systems are comprised of components rubber hoses and hose clamps and you can introduce leaks into the system just by disconnecting and connecting hoses.
The dealership that i work at has one of these Redline smoke machines, works very well. Have used it a couple of times, with good results. Was able to find the leaks easily. About filling it~ maybe the machine was changed, but the manual has'nt been changed yet. Only way to know is to ask the company. Coincidentally, you posted this video at a good time, i was explaining to someone yesterday about evap codes and finding evap leaks, sent that person the link so he can watch and understand. Thanks for posting this, Paul!
As always Paul you get a thumbs up before I get to watch. Your vids never disappoint. I've watched your vids for years. Always excellent. Cheers bro.
And here i was puffing on a cigar to check for EVAP leaks. Enjoy that new tool Paul.
lol
i got a vape device to do so, don't have any lungs left for a cigar
+Mostafa M which vapr juice flavor works best for checking vacuum leaks? I'll see if I can get some next time I'm at Walmart buying lube.
Ozzstar I got the vaporesso veco one plus, cheap but a cloud maker
+Mostafa yeah I learned all my smoke testing techniques from Scotty K, hes really knows his cigars and cars. A true genius in my opinion.
Yes! couldn't wait any longer for another video!
hehe, the errors/corrections in this video made for some good chuckling, "gas tankless", "2oz refrigerant"
haha yeah, sometimes I can't speak correctly
I picked up one of these used on eBay for $450 a few months back...had all the accessories with exception of the capless fuel tank adapter and the EZ Intake. I purchased both and just used the EZ Intake this morning to smoke an intake. It's a great tool...Don't use the paint can smoke machines as you can get fuel vapors coming back into it and possibly start a fire. That's what I heard anyway and it scared me away from them. Love my Redline Smoke Pro!
johnaclark1 smoke cans are fine. The constant air flow prevents backflow of vapors.
I only smoke now when I'm on fire.
Another great video Professor.
At 2:20 I thought I was watching a Cheech and Chong movie! Nice one Paul. That EZ Intake adapter looks pretty handy.
thank you for responding back to my comment keep up the good work love them videos
That gasket is available but you have to buy the whole top end intake gasket kit, can't buy it individually. The kits are pretty cheap. Awesome video!
Another great video appreciate the students getting involved good work.
Concerning the 4.3 liter throttle body to cover air leak. The dry rot seal can be replaced, but with modifications. My 96 Chevy S10 was leaking bad and I purchased a new shaft seal. The height was perfect, the I.D. was perfect, but the O.D. was a few millimeters too large. Had to turn down the seal to the correct size and installed it.
We have the older version of that smoke machine. I have found that using soapy water is typically alot easier to find leaks. There's been a few things I've smoke tested and couldn't find anything but found it with the soapy water.
wait until you see my next upload. soap and water was key as you stated, I could NOT find it with smoke, nor smell any gasoline when I had the smoke machine pumping air into the system
they do, I think it is like 1.5 psi? but not sure
This is because EVAP systems are sensitive to high pressure, according to the manual, even on EVAP service cap, says no more than 1psi. Manuals says that pressurizing the system too high could damage components, I don't know how true is that.
Great machine thanks Paul ☺🔧
Neat little smoke machine! I need to upgrade from my glorified paint can with no flow gauge. Would be nice to know how big the leaks are.Thanks for showing us this one. Looks like a good quality setup.
Very familiar sight towards the end there - under the hood of a GM S-series truck with a 4.3. I used to own one. I swear I spent more time looking at that engine than looking out the windshield, lol. Great engine, but with craptastic components bolted to it. When I yanked it out and slapped an Edelbrock intake and carb on it, and stabbed a HEI distributor in there, it suddenly became reliable. I then put it in a '89 S10 Blazer. Was a fun little winter beater until it rusted away. :)
I bought that exact flowmeter off ebay brand new for $20 and attached it to my SmokeBrake Automotive smoke tester...works EXACTLY as demonstrated in this video. Also, Redline sells 2 types of flowmeters for those just wanting to upgrade their existing machines. Great vid Paul...as usual.
It wasn't like the Redline one. Nobody would sell that flow meter for what u said. You're another lying troll putting a comment. Douchebag
Why didn't you apply vacuum to the close valve to check the canister first? Just wondering.
Samuel Bonilla Same
no particular reason, in this case it turned out we didn't need to focus in that direction
There is an adapter that is a rubber cap that will go on the gas tank filler neck. It's great when your customers bring their vehicle with a full tank.
You gotta love instructions. lol That intake balloon is pretty sweet but to buy it by it self is like $150 bucks
About Toyota/Lexus evap vent lines: bidirectionaly controlling the vent valve or canister control valve (CCV) will NOT seal the vent circuit of a Toyota evap system even on late model vacuum pump equipped systems. There 's a check valve that allows the canister to vent during refueling(positive pressure), and seals under vacuum. In order to smoke test any Toyota evap system (or at least every model I've seen as a dealership tech) the vent line has to be pinched or plugged. I got once got burned hard by a '14 sequoia with a pin-hole leak in the gas tank because this is never really stated in the service information...
That is a great tip Brian! Thank you so much.
Toyota's EVAP system is one thing I have never fully understood.
work for Toyota too a lot of stuff is missing in the service info thanks for sharing
I was wondering why I had a 20 thousands leak with the vent closed. But passed the evap small test on the scanner. 2005 Lexus g470. I tan the test 3 times after I replaced the gas cap and seen a leak on the flow meter. Cleared evap monitor 3 times and passed so now I know
Great video as always
They say to not overfill. Because if you filled to the top of the plug hole threads screw in the plug, when that plug screws in it will create pressure in the system and could damage internal components.
Overfill it and it spills out. Had a funny evap leak a couple weeks ago. Definitely had a leak but could not find the smoke. After a long time, found the leak in the trunk where someone had drilled a small hole in the trunk- into the gas tank!
Lowell Chrzan...YOU DO KNOW THST ITS AGAINST THE LAW TO SHOOT THE GUY THAT DRILLED THAT HOLE, DONT YOU??? Although, you and I both want to take aim, fire, and reload, we just have to sip on our coffee, and shake our heads, roll our eyes, and hope the blood pressure goes down, long before the blood vessel ruptures!!
common on police car they screw down fire ext. gun mounts in the trunk
Not sure where all that came from. This car was a total POS 6 cyl running V8 Northstar Deville wiith leaking heater hose fitting wrapped in tape and zip ties.
Yayrr waiting for vid forever lol
I love this lesson Danner, could we see a tear down of that machine I would love to build one it’s tooo expensive to purchase
I have the same machine, very reliable. However that plastic knob broke on mine within the first week of owning in. Im a big fan of yours Danner! ps smoking out a crankcase is a fun test. right down the dipstick tube can help find oil leaks when its difficult to pinpoint.
Ok...Now box it up and ship it to me....lolHow about a trade? The smoke machine for some spiders?
Use a mighty vac. Hand pump to apply vaccum to dashpot?
Nice!
Hey scanner danner where can i find a evap machine that you are using in the video thabks for the videos very informative
Deo Nandkumar...check the description below the vid!!
It shows that you edited this vid, what did you edit, go back and misspell some words??
Any Tool Supply Business --online,& many distributors, have
all the different brands of smoke machines.
The Redline is the least safest & as you can see,stressed Paul out,
just getting it out of the box. (the school paid for it or it was free,
so it works for their purpose)
There are adds in all the Automotive Trade Magazines at times,
at least in the USA
pc zapp , other than using compressed air (which most smoke machines do) what makes the Redline the least safest? I'm just curious. Thanks!
I bought one on eBay less than 6 months ago...Picked it up for $450 with all the accessories but the EZ Intake. There are deals out there if you keep an eye out. My only complaint is it would have been nice to hold out for the one that doesn't need shop air connected to it.
ScannerDanner...Paul, I think PC Zapp was being humorous about that machine. Talking about the unpackaging/frustration THAT you experienced, thereby possibly causing an elevated stress level/blood pressure and a possible STROKE!!!
Unsafe was just a relative term, loosely referring to a situation where you may or may not enjoy the stress/high bp/CVA!
Paul... how does this smoke machine compare to the snap on version EELD100a
When you had the smoke blowing on your hand did it leave a oily residue? Mine leaves an oil behind and I’m reluctant to use it because of that.
Are you using Baby Oil or Oil Recommended for Evap Systems ?
That may be another issue with the Redline Heating System &
the baby oil.
Take a look at BullsEye Leak Detection,that is a Bernie Thompson at
ATS -- Products. But like all his stuff, you need very deep pockets & a need
to spend that kind of change for them.
I used mineral oil. Which is supposed to be in the approved fluid. It’s a used machine. I only tested it once and haven’t used it on a car because I’m not sure if it’s normal or not. I’ve looked around an answer and haven’t been able to find one. When you’re checking scanner danners hand for residue you know you need help. Lol
I'm not a Smoke Machine expert,I just read up on equipment
before buying,as apparently several folk here are considering.
Mineral Oil is not Leak Detection Fluid/Oil
Mineral or Baby Oil--is Redline's claim to fame,just do some research
before you buy that product.
For those making their own machine,baby oil works for them.
Most home made products are not used in professional shops.
no sir it did not, but I think all of them would leave some type of residue
Some oils have a trace dye in them for use with a UV light
Hi Paul
Still following your video's and enjoying them thinking of buying a pico scope will the model 2206b 50mhz 2 channel do automotive testing, I am new to oscilloscopes and on a limited budged, would appreciate your comments as there are cheaper options if I lower the mhz
I'm in the market for a smoke machine and I'm stuck between this or the otc leak tamer
Smoke Wizard GLD 40 --that is the only smoke machine you want.
Check out all the web sites & videos on it.
ASEWave --- has it now for $868.00 but you will have to pay
for shipping.
There is a company serving veterans & municipalities, that is good
to deal with & shipping is free
They Do Come in Many Colors --not just yellow & can lay down in
your roll cab & DO NOT use Baby Oil & are OEM Approved World Wide.
pc zapp what sets it apart from the other 2? Looks like it have very similar features as the OTC
The Wizard is safer for many reasons.
Mainly the heating element verse the
Redline heating coil
It could be some of the newer machines
made in the last couple years, are similar
to the Wizards technology, that has been out
for many years.
The Wizard & Redline are obviously the smallest machine.
It has never been recommended to use baby oil, which is a Redline speal
The OTC is nice,but it is big & I can not find out what is inside that makes
it work,you need to know how they heat the oil.It does however use the
Ultra Trace UV Dye, which OEMS Require (if anyone even cares),not the
crap the Redline uses.
On smoking the fuel tank end of the system,you may want to consider
using Nitrogen verse Shop Air.
All the smoke machines will have the same outside features or
functions,it is what is inside that matters & what fluid is recommended
buy the vehicle manufactures,again, if anyone cares or does the research,before buying one.
I have made many calls to these companies & they are lost when I ask,
What A/C Power Supply can I use with your machines.
We have batteries under the hood,under the rear floors or seat,
in the trunk.
Your working at the other end of the vehicle,really, why run out out
cord & what if you don't want to load the battery while doing diagnostics?
We'll let Paul weigh in on that question.
Redline also makes one that doesn't require compressed air. It's the Smoke Pro Air Complete. You can pick them up for much less on eBay than on the RedlineDetection website.
Hey Paul - where did you get your evap tool? I have a smoke tester but I need the adapter to connect to the service port. I normally use my smoke tester to find boost & vacuum leaks.
I got mine from redline themselves. I did find this same unit on Amazon and it is listed in the description of this video
Cleared po442,po456,still have po448 pcm problema
Ah, you got there at the 9 min mark.
hi which sensors would cause a no start , ie crank sensor faulty = no injector pulse. and so on would be nice if you do do a video on this topic regards tom
Here is a playlist for you
th-cam.com/play/PLAFYVCyenqcpihCBcez4sWLv5x2FHNnq-.html
scannerdanner could you use the smoke machine to find AC leaks when the system is empty?
no sir, the oil would contaminate the system
I just ordered an Advanced Terminal Test Kit from AESwave
sweet! you will like it. Hopefully you used my link to take you there :-)
I didn't use your link, does that give a discount? I sure would like your book, but have to wait on that.
no, it just lets them know you went through me, no big deal. My book is available through them as well when you are ready. Thanks so much!
Hey Paul, I have an issue right now that I feel you would know the answer to really quick. The issue isn't related to this video but other 5v reference short circuit videos you have posted. I have a 2001 Honda Prelude that has a p0108 code. When I unplug the pigtail from the map sensor with key on engine off, I test the the three wires assuming one ground, one constant voltage, and one variable voltage for the reference. But when I test with the multimeter I get one wire with 4.7 volts, the ground which I'm not 100% on how to check, and then the third wire gets constant 4.9 volts. I haven't back probed the sensor and tested with key on engine off or koe on while it's plugged in, I only tested koe off with the pigtail unplugged as I previously mentioned. Has my constant 5v wire shorted to the reference wire? How is it possible for the reference wire to get constant 4.9v? To my understanding if the reference wire shorts to ground, I would have low voltage coming from the ref wire to the ecu, but what cause constant high voltage reading? I have recently changed all the grounds on the car, but have double and triple checked them, and went with a lower guage wire just to safe. I also moved the battery to the trunk, and it's not grounded to the fraimrail back there, but to the back wall where the taillights grounded from the factory. Could my issue be a bad ground? The car was getting 12v to everything it needed to in the fuse box and everything else works fine, so it seemed to me the battery ground was a good strong connection. I tried to put a new map sensor on, but I took it right off after I turned the car on and it was still throwing the same code, should I have reset the code it the computer before so quickly assuming I don't need a new map sensor? It seems to me it's an issue with the harnesses somewhere but I don't know. I really could use any input that you have, sorry for the long message but I watched your videos and I know for a fact that if the car was in front of you, you would fix it quick. Please help if you can, and if there's a better way to talk back and forth, def let me know.
A few things, first your terminology is a little off so my answers will be confusing if I don't clarify that first. The constant voltage or power wire is the reference wire (5v reference wire/circuit), which you read 4.9V on. The signal wire had the 4.7 volts on it and this is normal with the sensor unplugged. There is an internal "bleed resistor" in the ECU that is connected between the reference circuit and the signal circuit that will help the computer identify signal circuit problems. What you read on the signal circuit with it plugged in is more important, on your car it should be around 2.9 volts maybe a little less with the key on engine off and should drop in voltage when you start the car.
The ground wire can be checked by backprobing, plugged in as well, with your voltmeter still connected to ground on the battery. You should have less than 100mv reading on that test. Let me know and we will go from there.
Great questions BTW! You've been paying attention, I can see it.
Last thing, you did not tell me what the car is doing other than the code. If you moved the battery to the trunk you absolutely need a ground wire from the block to the body of the car in the front. A heavy ground cable too. Is this also a no crank problem? Or cranks but has weird electrical faults along with this code?
ScannerDanner thanks for your reply, sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you this past week has been kinda crazy for me. The car cranks and runs, but doesn't idle very strong and wants to die when I close the throttle. As soon as it's up to operating temp it does not idle at all and will only run when in gear while it's moving. But it will run when warm if I hold the throttle open. Those are the only other symptoms, only code is p0108 and has no other electrical issues at all. The only symptoms are the no idle condition and a very heavy smell of unburnt fuel, seems to run very rich all the time. I have a 4 guage ground running from the block to the chassis. I have backprobed the sensor, with KOE off the the reference wire has 4.94 volts and the signal wire reads 2.84 volts. With KOE on at idle, the reference wire read 4v to 6v constantly changing; and the signal wire read 2v to 4v never holding steady but always changing. With KOE on at open throttle, the reference wire read 4v to 7v, and the signal wire read 4v to 7v as well, both readings never held steady but constantly changed. With KOE on and the multimeter set to the 200 ohm continuity setting, I attached one end of the multimeter to the chassis ground and the other to the ground wire on the plug and the reading was 38.1 constantly. Is this 38.1mv or 381mv? I think it's 38.1mv but I'm not entirely sure. Is it possible that I just have a bad map sensor? I replaced it but took it off immediately after one start because the code did not clear. Should I have waited longer for the ecu to adjust or removed the code myself via scan tool or unhooking the battery? Thanks for all your help, I wish I could bring the car to you and watch you diagnosis it in person but this is not an option. Hope all is well with you and I look forward to your response!
I have one. I love it.
wow!
that one was too easy to find, my "built in" sniffer and eyes would have found that quick :))
Free cool
Hey Paul.
You forgot to tell them how you found out the scheader valve is not righty tighty.lol..
coming up in the next episode :-)
Someone makes an evap machine that doesn’t require an external air source. It has its own compressor built in. I’ll see if I can find it.
Redline makes one of those too. It's called the Smoke Pro Air. It's on their website.
This has nothing to do with smoke test i have a ford ranger run bad in drive and good in neutral fires right up. Seems like it will not rev past 2000 rpm any help would be great
John Schwieter maybe clogged cat on exhaust
That's a handsome machine but yes, the fill instructions are a little misleading.
You have awesome taste in tools Wyatt!
this is a little more high tech than my smoked sock pickle jar but kinda sketchy pinching 30 year old vacuum hose with vice grips
Where I can found the smoke machine Paul?
description of this video my friend Thanks!
Here
arbez auto...hey, we did that at the same time!!!
But, it looks like you got it in first, tho!!
I declare you the OFFICIAL FIRST COMMENT winner!!
And the winner gets to clean ScannerDanners classroom for a month!! And the shop for two weeks, because it's dirtier!!!
Way to beat me out, bro!! Lucky you!!
I want to be an automotive instructor
I would have pinched the tube about 1 minute into the video, couldn't you hear me shouting?
What a rip off price for that product (IMO); like around $1000? Give me a break..
Now how would you diagnose a computer is bad for a evap code gooooooooo.........
Im quilty am a parts changer evap canister and purge solenoid valve need to trace out grd to pcm
Why are they so F'ing expensive?
+Louis Moscatel - lots of paint can DIY smokers on the internet. I even have one. It's the same with "First Look" pulse transducers and WPS500 in-cylinder compression tester---guys are making their own too.
logical canuck...a simple one can be made at home with the basic materials!!
The commercially made ones offer a complete diagnostic aid, complete with many different attachments and materials!! The higher end ones can do many specific tasks, that help with diagnostics!! The total air flow meter is just one added aid, that a smoke machine offers!! The one in this video also includes a light, with battery attachment clamps, that aid in riding the smoke leak!! I'm 110% sure that any competent tech will have a light, but a handy, bright, never needs batteries/charging addition to the machine??
+roadkill5333 +Socket - These commercial machines cost around $1000...
I made one for $30...with a flow meter...and I bought a LED UV flashlight for $10 on Amazon which shows the smoke even better that a halogen light as shown here.
I won't link the video of my smoke machine build but you can find it on my channel if you're interested.
logical canuck thanks!
Nice commercial.
Hey Scan!!
First!!!!!! Hahahahan
a shot of tequila is 2oz, learn people learn!!!!!
Now I will remember that :-)
Just remind me when I used smoke test on BMW nice tools
I really cringe every time I see these so called ASE Certified Mechanics pinch hoses with pliers..( 7:27 ).my grandpa, and father had a box full of rubber colored plugs to cap them (in the 80s)...these new kids are Lumber Jacks...