Fantastic video. Some great advice and a lot of information i did not know. I think i will be watching this video several times! Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these videos.
The point of shooting is to minimise the amount of effort necessary to hit a target. Ergo: nice, simple, lazy benchrest is the pinnacle of shooting and therefore all I'm interested in 😊
Just another quick point. The closer you can get the centre of your scope to the barrel, will help with the amount of hold over and under required. With my zero, set at 25 yards, the hold over for 45 yards, is only .75 of a mil dot. Obviously make sure you have a little clearance, so that the scope doesn’t touch the barrel. I am sure other scopes may vary though. Like you said, it is very much a case of trial and error. 👍
excellent video my friend very detailed. for me if my neck don’t hurt that much as i look up the tree at the target its bottom of kill zone but if i am having to strain it its half a kill zone 🤣🤣🤣🤣 but that took a fair few tins to work that out 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 so in my cases it know your pain 🤣🤣🤣 pretty much any under 45 degree angle i am as normal
Very nicely done, thank you. Sorry to be a pedant and this is a small technical question. Regarding parallax and the 100% and 50% of maximum error - would these be squares rather than circles? On the smaller target that would put the 100% error just outside the target if your eye was maximum out of line on both windage and elevation. You did encourage us to think about it for ourselves! 🤣
Gold star for thinking outside the box! But if you think about it, the errors will always be an equal distance in all directions from your reticle aim point so that can only be a circle not a square.
Nice video mate you did blow my mind a bit with the maths 😀 mathematics was never my strong point. Im going to try hft soon at maldon as my shooting has improved with watching your tips i feel nearly confident to take part
I was advised to disregard angles below 15 degrees and less than 15 yards when using the rifleman rule, which works. Shooting above these, I put the horizontal range distance at the base of the kill zone, so that the pellet will hit above this, seems to work at distances to 40 yards, further aim at a quarter mildot within the bottom of the kill zone.
"Safe and well" - that's a very bad hangover you need to ditch from COVID! To not be safe would mean they couldn't ever be watching this. Unless it's under duress. .. on with the video. Stay safe.
Not sure what you mean, but whether it's mrad or moa the reticle marks should be constant across the reticle. They will only show true measurements at one specific magnification.
@@hftshooter In some scoopes the crosshair vill bee bigger compaind too the target with a bigger focus, i might not use the right worlds, but it must bee a differense if the scope have different accuracy dependent on magnificasent. If so, the thin haircross should bee the only way too get a deesent hit!? I,m sorry but i,m a Swedish spring powered shooter with a AA TX 200. And i love it!
OK, I think I get what you mean now. Yes, on some scopes the lines are too thick and I too find they get in the way when aiming. I also find the reverse is true with too fine a line especially when shooting HFT targets. I guess you just have to find a scope with a reticle that suits you. All the best.
Many thanks for this detailed video. However, I am confused. At 17:10 you elude to using the diopter to eliminate parallax, is this correct? The diopter is used to focus your eye on the reticle in the same way reading glasses focus your eye on the pages of a book and should not need to be changed once set. The side focus or adjustable objective is used to bring the objective (target) onto the same focal plane as the reticle, only when this happens is parallax eliminated and the reticle will be static relative to the target even when "bobbing " your head. I have always understood that any movement is adjusted out by small adjustments to the focus. How does moving the diopter focus eliminate the parallax when it does not adjust the object image relative to the reticle focal plane?
Hi, thanks for pointing that out. My apologies, that was clearly an error in my part in terminology. I should have said 'focus' rather than 'diopter'. Clearly I missed that during editing.
@@fxpeter22 I'm really not that clever, lol! There are only so many times you can watch things through during editing before it all becomes a blur and you miss obvious mistakes. That being said, I've read that it's advisable to check the dioptre adjustment once your focus is properly set to ensure they work in tandem so the reticle and target become one image rather than two if that makes sense. Thanks for the sub and all the best. 👍
@@jeffmccall8013 I agree, everything should be focused in the same plane for best results. I also agree that editing is the arduious part of video making, it can take 2 or 3 times as long to edit as it does to generate the video in the first place. I am very interested in the technicalities of shooting, ballistics, optics and setups and I am working through some of your videos which are very enlightning. Thanks ☺
Personally, the only limiting factor for me with the current prismatic scopes is the reticle. They don't do a half mildot reticle which is a shame. If you can manage with limited aim points then go for it.
Prob dumb question, but when doing a range card and trying to aim at a super blurry line at 45 yards because you’re parallax is 25 yards, is it ok to change parallax to 45 yards without consequence for those shots so you can aim more accurately at the line? Do you know what I mean?
There are no dumb questions mate. When you're doing your range card, for sure you want to adjust your focus for each range to get the most accurate results you can.
Personally I don’t adjust parallax for each range,as this is how a competition would be shot.So it makes more sense to set scope as it would be used.If there’s parallax error there you can see it and see what adjustments if any you can make with head position etc to improve it.
As you probably know, at a fixed mag your scope behaves the same as a SFP. Your benefit comes with being able to change mag and keep one set of aim points as the reticle changes size to compensate. Not much use to an HFT shooter like me, but very useful for hunting where you may want to constantly change your mag.
Yes it would be much easier, but in the rules that I shoot to you cannot adjust your scope after your first shot. So I'm limited to only one magnification setting for the entirety of the competition.
Thanks so much for sharing. I can hardly wait to get out and test your observations!
Glad to hear you found it useful. 🙂👍
A Brilliant video you made it all sound so simple well done and keep videos coming
Thanks, will do!🙂👍
That was such a good video!!! I leaned a lot!!! Can you make your example charts printable???
If you email me which charts you want I'll see what I can do. hftshooteruk@gmail.com
Fantastic video. Some great advice and a lot of information i did not know. I think i will be watching this video several times! Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these videos.
Glad it was helpful! 🙂👍
Very well explained. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
Best video yet. Thank YOU for doing the math. Very logical
Glad it was helpful! 🙂👍
Yo, great vid. I’m new to HFT. You explain it all very well. Many thanks.
Glad to help! 🙂👍
The point of shooting is to minimise the amount of effort necessary to hit a target. Ergo: nice, simple, lazy benchrest is the pinnacle of shooting and therefore all I'm interested in 😊
Sounds like you've found your niche. Whatever works for you! 👍
Just another quick point. The closer you can get the centre of your scope to the barrel, will help with the amount of hold over and under required. With my zero, set at 25 yards, the hold over for 45 yards, is only .75 of a mil dot. Obviously make sure you have a little clearance, so that the scope doesn’t touch the barrel. I am sure other scopes may vary though. Like you said, it is very much a case of trial and error. 👍
Thanks Steve. Yes you can manipulate your aim points by changing your scope height, but that's for another video. 😉
@@hftshooter I look forward to that. Cheers. 👍
You really know your stuff .i have learnt a lot from your vids .bin shooting for 50 years an still learning atb keep em coming
Thanks Phil. Just passing on the stuff I'm picking up as I'm learning.
This is GREAT!
Thanks for that , makes me think my second focal plane scopes can be used more effectively
Glad to help.
Very informative. Thank you for your excellent presentation.
You're very welcome! 🙂👍
Nice vid buddy . Like it 👍
Give me a shout and we can talk HFT my friend . Do you have Instagram ?
excellent video my friend very detailed. for me if my neck don’t hurt that much as i look up the tree at the target its bottom of kill zone but if i am having to strain it its half a kill zone 🤣🤣🤣🤣 but that took a fair few tins to work that out 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 so in my cases it know your pain 🤣🤣🤣 pretty much any under 45 degree angle i am as normal
Very nicely done, thank you. Sorry to be a pedant and this is a small technical question. Regarding parallax and the 100% and 50% of maximum error - would these be squares rather than circles? On the smaller target that would put the 100% error just outside the target if your eye was maximum out of line on both windage and elevation. You did encourage us to think about it for ourselves! 🤣
Gold star for thinking outside the box! But if you think about it, the errors will always be an equal distance in all directions from your reticle aim point so that can only be a circle not a square.
@@hftshooter That does make sense - you could not move your eye maximum of both at the same time because the scope is round - boing. You are right.
Very useful thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video mate you did blow my mind a bit with the maths 😀 mathematics was never my strong point. Im going to try hft soon at maldon as my shooting has improved with watching your tips i feel nearly confident to take part
😆Sorry mate, maths is one of my things. Don't delay in entering your first comp, you will learn so much and it's a lot of fun. Good luck with it! 😃👍
Cool, brilliant video for airguner. Would you like review Arken scope? We're willing to work with you
Thanks! Yes, that would be great. Please contact me at hftshooteruk@gmail.com to discuss.
Basically, shooting up or shooting downward , you place the mil dot approx 1inch low on the target.
Well, it depends on each horizontal range and it's associated aim pint, but if that works for you great.
I was advised to disregard angles below 15 degrees and less than 15 yards when using the rifleman rule, which works. Shooting above these, I put the horizontal range distance at the base of the kill zone, so that the pellet will hit above this, seems to work at distances to 40 yards, further aim at a quarter mildot within the bottom of the kill zone.
"Safe and well" - that's a very bad hangover you need to ditch from COVID!
To not be safe would mean they couldn't ever be watching this. Unless it's under duress.
.. on with the video.
Stay safe.
Very philosophical, but just meant as a friendly greeting!
Isn,t there a differens if the crosshair is before or after the lins in the scope, when talking about reticle size and dots?
Not sure what you mean, but whether it's mrad or moa the reticle marks should be constant across the reticle. They will only show true measurements at one specific magnification.
@@hftshooter In some scoopes the crosshair vill bee bigger compaind too the target with a bigger focus, i might not use the right worlds, but it must bee a differense if the scope have different accuracy dependent on magnificasent. If so, the thin haircross should bee the only way too get a deesent hit!? I,m sorry but i,m a Swedish spring powered shooter with a AA TX 200. And i love it!
OK, I think I get what you mean now. Yes, on some scopes the lines are too thick and I too find they get in the way when aiming. I also find the reverse is true with too fine a line especially when shooting HFT targets. I guess you just have to find a scope with a reticle that suits you. All the best.
Many thanks for this detailed video. However, I am confused. At 17:10 you elude to using the diopter to eliminate parallax, is this correct? The diopter is used to focus your eye on the reticle in the same way reading glasses focus your eye on the pages of a book and should not need to be changed once set. The side focus or adjustable objective is used to bring the objective (target) onto the same focal plane as the reticle, only when this happens is parallax eliminated and the reticle will be static relative to the target even when "bobbing " your head. I have always understood that any movement is adjusted out by small adjustments to the focus. How does moving the diopter focus eliminate the parallax when it does not adjust the object image relative to the reticle focal plane?
Hi, thanks for pointing that out. My apologies, that was clearly an error in my part in terminology. I should have said 'focus' rather than 'diopter'. Clearly I missed that during editing.
@@hftshooter Blimey, I thought you had discovered something new, had my brain whirling. enjoy your content "Subscribed"
@@fxpeter22 I'm really not that clever, lol! There are only so many times you can watch things through during editing before it all becomes a blur and you miss obvious mistakes. That being said, I've read that it's advisable to check the dioptre adjustment once your focus is properly set to ensure they work in tandem so the reticle and target become one image rather than two if that makes sense. Thanks for the sub and all the best. 👍
@@jeffmccall8013 I agree, everything should be focused in the same plane for best results. I also agree that editing is the arduious part of video making, it can take 2 or 3 times as long to edit as it does to generate the video in the first place. I am very interested in the technicalities of shooting, ballistics, optics and setups and I am working through some of your videos which are very enlightning. Thanks ☺
Very interesting 👍
Thanks. 🙂
I have a problem translating British to American,other than that good video.
Sorry about that Dale but UK is my main audience. 🙂
What about prismatic scopes, that are both fixed mag and effectively parallax free? Best choice for hft?
Personally, the only limiting factor for me with the current prismatic scopes is the reticle. They don't do a half mildot reticle which is a shame. If you can manage with limited aim points then go for it.
@@hftshooter I like them, but can't afford one.
Thanks so much, this is great info.
(Veggie Shooter)
You're very welcome. 🙂👍
Prob dumb question, but when doing a range card and trying to aim at a super blurry line at 45 yards because you’re parallax is 25 yards, is it ok to change parallax to 45 yards without consequence for those shots so you can aim more accurately at the line? Do you know what I mean?
There are no dumb questions mate. When you're doing your range card, for sure you want to adjust your focus for each range to get the most accurate results you can.
Personally I don’t adjust parallax for each range,as this is how a competition would be shot.So it makes more sense to set scope as it would be used.If there’s parallax error there you can see it and see what adjustments if any you can make with head position etc to improve it.
Just to add if iam pellet testing etc I will adjust parallax to get best groups possible,just not when iam doing final range card
for me it was: Silly Old Harry, Caught a Herring , Trawling Off America
I have absolutely no idea what that means, but thanks for watching.
@@hftshooter sine cosine and tangent reminder thing
Yes! Of course. For me it was "Sir Oliver's Horse Came Ambling Home To Oliver's Aunt". 🙂👍
Any advice for 1st focal plane scope users??
As you probably know, at a fixed mag your scope behaves the same as a SFP. Your benefit comes with being able to change mag and keep one set of aim points as the reticle changes size to compensate. Not much use to an HFT shooter like me, but very useful for hunting where you may want to constantly change your mag.
Why is it no use for you? Would it not be easier??
Yes it would be much easier, but in the rules that I shoot to you cannot adjust your scope after your first shot. So I'm limited to only one magnification setting for the entirety of the competition.
So you are unable to make any adjustments to the scope at all during a competition? not even focus(Range finding)@@hftshooter