I did this swap in my 88 lx in 2007. Three months later my fuel pump crapped out on me so I parked it next to my garage for a couple days as I was in the middle of moving out. I was ending my USMC service after five faithful years and was just too busy to replace it. I woke up to no Mustang. Stolen. Police report filed but nothing ever came from it. To make matters worse I misplaced the title in the move from NC to PA. I dream about this car everyday. Can’t afford another as I’m a disabled vet with three kids to take care of also. Your page keeps me going and brings back fond memories. Thank you
I did that back in 2000 and put a F303 it ran good. Bought the Ford Motorsports headers back when they was cheep.I always wondered if a person could make the coil on plug set up work on them now that the after market pcms are out there that would be a great budget.I even used the TB off the explorer with a little work you can swap the cable bracket
I've been kicking around the idea of swapping out my 250k mile 5.0 in my 95 F150 XLT and figured Fox guys are a good place to start looking. Found this channel about 5 months ago with the poor man's stroker. Seems like a wealth of knowledge here, but it's kinda hard to follow if you're new to the SBF family. Thanks for putting this out there, not a lot of folks playing with these motors these days, everyone has moved on to Coyote and LS.
Your welcome man! Ya this is a junkyard swap to gain 50+ hp in a foxbody. If people are looking they are out there.. complete engines and you can simply bolt your stuff on and drop it back into the car.
Awesome video Brother! Love the detailed explanation and tips! I used ceramic spark plug boots with my GT40p Heads which helped a lot....But what really fixed the issue was when I found a used set of the Ford Motorsport/Racing headers that were made specifically for the P heads...
STILL running one of these type setups in one of my Foxes. GT40 heads, Cobra intake, and TFS I cam. The car has full exhaust, a T56 conversion, 4.10s, and some suspension. I collected everything for a 408 including MCRP ported FRPP “Z” heads, AFM N91 cam, EFI Spyder 351 intake, but the 306 hasn’t died yet so I might drop that in my other Fox lol 😝 Basically the basic setup can be fun despite not being powerful or particularly fast without power adder help…
I’m in the process of swapping in my fresh 306 with explorer intake, 4 bar heads with trick flow springs, stage 1 cam and Vortech V1. Controlled by a terminator X.
Its a NON HO motor. If you were swapping the accessories over thats not a problem however the crown vic i a different firing order so there will be issues.
Thanks again for sharing this with me Dan. Got my 88 Mercury Cougar XR-7 underway! Need to do a manual swap as soon as I get all the right pieces! Any good money saving suggestions on that one? Great evening to you and your family!
@@NeomustangsI thought the duration was less as well. I assume you're going to need a camshaft swap to increase 50 horsepower. Sounds like a great test. Put it on the rollers!
It is obd2. But yes tuning is more difficult, not everyone will touch the explorer calibration for whatever reason. Money maybe? There are a few but not really any of the big names.
And the EDIS setup is completely capable, but I'm going to ditch mine because of the coil wire terminals, and it's huge and ugly. The EDIS terminals are hard to come by and they're expensive. There aren't really any custom or high end cable kits for the explorer.
In theory, it seems a good idea. The devil is in the details. Ford engineers are notorious for constantly changing designs and making interchange difficult. For example, the explorer harmonic damper/water pump/accessories is unique to the explorer serpentine belt, being closer to the block. The drive pulley doesn't separate from the damper. Now you need a workaround for the 36-1 crank trigger. From what I've gathered, the explorer PCM isn't a good choice for re-writes. The newer marauder/panther type factory PCM is a better choice. I think the best way is to go with a cheaper standalone PCM, using an edis-8 to fire the DIS, or use LS Smart coils.
Where are you finding cheap GT40 parts and $300 engines? Pull-N-Save wants $800+ for a full engine, heads are $430 after tax and fees. Facebook dudes want $800 cleaned 40P heads.
Most yards here are U pull it. So they all have a set price on engines. Regardless of what it is..... There are lots of yards around me here in Ohio. I just get the whole engine (between 250-500) whenever they come in running.
Yeah, U-pulls here is $471.06 after fees and core and it's block, head, intake, oil pan. Injectors, distributor etc are all extra. Single head is $104.15
No way I'm putting an engine in a 5.0 and using GT40 junk. I will look around and snag an $500-800 set of used aluminum Trickflow or equivalent heads rather than wasting my time. You guys are crazy. I would work extra to put a good set of heads on my engine. Unless you are going turbo and going to throw enough boost to bust the 5.0 block anyways I guess. Running a $3200 393 with welded up hogged out TW170's right now, bet this thing makes about 440 or so to the crank would stomp a mud hole in any GT40 engine. Scat cast crank, good Diamond pistons, Chiner rods and doesn't even have 2000 rod bolts in it.
@@Neomustangs If you can't afford $800 bucks to add alot more horsepower ALL THE TIME then maybe just leave it stock or alone. Heck, maybe sell it and get you something better on gas like a Camry. We didn't do GT40 crap 20 years ago why start now? Just have to look around, be patient, and be smart about it. Each his own, but you ought to hear this big cam junk Windsor chopping...just trying to figure out if I can put a blower on a cast Scat crank lol...
A bit aggressive but I agree. If you are going to go to the trouble you might as well wait and save. You can get $800 knock off dart heads dressed. When you are dropping 400 for the rebuild parts/gaskets/misc. No reason to use these heads. If your literally reusing parts you shouldn't, then it makes sense.
I did this swap in my 88 lx in 2007. Three months later my fuel pump crapped out on me so I parked it next to my garage for a couple days as I was in the middle of moving out. I was ending my USMC service after five faithful years and was just too busy to replace it. I woke up to no Mustang. Stolen. Police report filed but nothing ever came from it. To make matters worse I misplaced the title in the move from NC to PA. I dream about this car everyday. Can’t afford another as I’m a disabled vet with three kids to take care of also. Your page keeps me going and brings back fond memories. Thank you
All my upgrades are still sitting here since '99. 😳
Not racing, just having fun with the T5.
😀😀🇺🇸
Same here 🤣 still running a Vortech V-1 ❤
This is perfect for anyone who needs to get there Shit of the jackstands on a budget. Thanks, Brother, for all you do for us.
100% the reason for the video. I had both engines on the stands fully dressed i made the best of it. Now i should do a 351 swap.
I did that back in 2000 and put a F303 it ran good. Bought the Ford Motorsports headers back when they was cheep.I always wondered if a person could make the coil on plug set up work on them now that the after market pcms are out there that would be a great budget.I even used the TB off the explorer with a little work you can swap the cable bracket
I've been kicking around the idea of swapping out my 250k mile 5.0 in my 95 F150 XLT and figured Fox guys are a good place to start looking. Found this channel about 5 months ago with the poor man's stroker. Seems like a wealth of knowledge here, but it's kinda hard to follow if you're new to the SBF family. Thanks for putting this out there, not a lot of folks playing with these motors these days, everyone has moved on to Coyote and LS.
Your welcome man! Ya this is a junkyard swap to gain 50+ hp in a foxbody. If people are looking they are out there.. complete engines and you can simply bolt your stuff on and drop it back into the car.
You killed it with content this year! Thanks for all the information, encouragement and entertainment!
Thank you!
Awesome video Brother! Love the detailed explanation and tips! I used ceramic spark plug boots with my GT40p Heads which helped a lot....But what really fixed the issue was when I found a used set of the Ford Motorsport/Racing headers that were made specifically for the P heads...
STILL running one of these type setups in one of my Foxes. GT40 heads, Cobra intake, and TFS I cam. The car has full exhaust, a T56 conversion, 4.10s, and some suspension. I collected everything for a 408 including MCRP ported FRPP “Z” heads, AFM N91 cam, EFI Spyder 351 intake, but the 306 hasn’t died yet so I might drop that in my other Fox lol 😝
Basically the basic setup can be fun despite not being powerful or particularly fast without power adder help…
Just the info I need. Thanks Neo, this is why I'm here. 💯🎉
Would be great to see you do one of those coil on plug swaps on a car
We will be swapping to EDIS/COP style thru an A9L? with the black car once the 387 is back in it. Was the plan prior to the carnage!
Got one of those Exploders, Good Info Thanks 👍👍
I’m in the process of swapping in my fresh 306 with explorer intake, 4 bar heads with trick flow springs, stage 1 cam and Vortech V1. Controlled by a terminator X.
Should be a fun ride!
Nice video man. Thanks for what you do.
Thanks for watching, man!
Yeah man! Love this channel. Sorry about sending that email while you were on a trip. Hope y’all had a good one!
How about a Crown Vic 5.0 as a starting point? Thanks
Its a NON HO motor. If you were swapping the accessories over thats not a problem however the crown vic i a different firing order so there will be issues.
Good video!
Loving the intro song.
Thx man!
That exploder cam is awful though
Same as foxbody very close
Thanks again for sharing this with me Dan. Got my 88 Mercury Cougar XR-7 underway! Need to do a manual swap as soon as I get all the right pieces! Any good money saving suggestions on that one? Great evening to you and your family!
Pedals will be the hardest to locate.
I have 2 sets in my shed one set in my 4cyl-8cyl swap crusty car. There 3 4bar engine at my u pull and pay. I have 2 cores. I’m finna slide through
Oh and one set was already drilled 1/2 for 351
But the camshaft on the explorer is supposed to be really small compared to stock HO cam.
.422/.448 vs ..444/.444. It’s not
Put 1.7 rockers
@@NeomustangsI thought the duration was less as well. I assume you're going to need a camshaft swap to increase 50 horsepower. Sounds like a great test. Put it on the rollers!
@@russellbroadwell The heads and intake alone are worth 50+ HP over the stock fox body top end. ITs why its a popular junkyard swap.
@Neomustangs I have ran two Explorer motors one EFI with an HO cam and one with an E303 with a carb.
How do you feel about the 7.3 godzilla? Too soon, too expensive, or not interested?
I would rather go Yote if i did anything newer
Need a link for that oil filter adapter. It’s the last thing I need for mine.
Transfer the one out of the fox.
@@hotrodray6802I don’t have a foxbody yet and building this engine till I find a roller
Explorers had a lazy cam?
So why doesn’t anyone use the computer and wiring harness and DIS system on the Explorer it is OBD two and programmable?
It is obd2. But yes tuning is more difficult, not everyone will touch the explorer calibration for whatever reason. Money maybe? There are a few but not really any of the big names.
And the EDIS setup is completely capable, but I'm going to ditch mine because of the coil wire terminals, and it's huge and ugly. The EDIS terminals are hard to come by and they're expensive. There aren't really any custom or high end cable kits for the explorer.
In theory, it seems a good idea. The devil is in the details. Ford engineers are notorious for constantly changing designs and making interchange difficult.
For example, the explorer harmonic damper/water pump/accessories is unique to the explorer serpentine belt, being closer to the block. The drive pulley doesn't separate from the damper. Now you need a workaround for the 36-1 crank trigger.
From what I've gathered, the explorer PCM isn't a good choice for re-writes. The newer marauder/panther type factory PCM is a better choice. I think the best way is to go with a cheaper standalone PCM, using an edis-8 to fire the DIS, or use LS Smart coils.
Not easily programmable.
Where are you finding cheap GT40 parts and $300 engines? Pull-N-Save wants $800+ for a full engine, heads are $430 after tax and fees. Facebook dudes want $800 cleaned 40P heads.
Most yards here are U pull it. So they all have a set price on engines. Regardless of what it is..... There are lots of yards around me here in Ohio. I just get the whole engine (between 250-500) whenever they come in running.
Yeah, U-pulls here is $471.06 after fees and core and it's block, head, intake, oil pan. Injectors, distributor etc are all extra. Single head is $104.15
No way I'm putting an engine in a 5.0 and using GT40 junk. I will look around and snag an $500-800 set of used aluminum Trickflow or equivalent heads rather than wasting my time. You guys are crazy. I would work extra to put a good set of heads on my engine. Unless you are going turbo and going to throw enough boost to bust the 5.0 block anyways I guess. Running a $3200 393 with welded up hogged out TW170's right now, bet this thing makes about 440 or so to the crank would stomp a mud hole in any GT40 engine. Scat cast crank, good Diamond pistons, Chiner rods and doesn't even have 2000 rod bolts in it.
Not everyone wants that pal. Or can afford it either…..Some folks want to just enjoy their fox body with a few extra horses lol….
@@Neomustangs If you can't afford $800 bucks to add alot more horsepower ALL THE TIME then maybe just leave it stock or alone. Heck, maybe sell it and get you something better on gas like a Camry. We didn't do GT40 crap 20 years ago why start now? Just have to look around, be patient, and be smart about it. Each his own, but you ought to hear this big cam junk Windsor chopping...just trying to figure out if I can put a blower on a cast Scat crank lol...
Nothing beats ford OEM
A bit aggressive but I agree. If you are going to go to the trouble you might as well wait and save. You can get $800 knock off dart heads dressed. When you are dropping 400 for the rebuild parts/gaskets/misc. No reason to use these heads. If your literally reusing parts you shouldn't, then it makes sense.