thank you Annsha, for a very relaxed and informative video...I also work with eco dying, botanical printing, I cant make up my mind what exactly to call it. I work with silk scarves and call them happening scarves as I never know what will happen when they are unrolled. it is so much fun I have just started to use shirts so it was good to see how you have done it...i live on the gold coast Australia... thanks again colleen clark
Hi Colleen, thanks for your feedback. I love the sound of your silk scarves and "happening" is a great name. I used to live on the sunshine coast, but have now retired and live on a yacht-home "A B Sea", currently in the Mediterranean. But my husband and I are planning on coming home one day ... All the best with your happening scarves.
"It is advisable to wear gloves and a mask when working with rust, as the iron will try to bind with your haemoglobin, blocking all available sites for oxygen. The tolerance to raw iron varies from person to person, and some people can become gravely ill from too much contact with raw iron products" The Found Object in Textile Art by Cas Holmes. This warning is even more applicable in the days of covid and widespread lung damage.
art room Thank you for your feedback and I'm glad you liked tbe video. I am editing a couple of other tutorials - another on making felt (wet felt), also showing how to lay out the wool for a design, and another on eco-printing a piece of felt. If you are interested please subscribe for notification. Thanks!
What a beneficial video for eco-print! I love your video. I was doing eco-print officially 5 months and love this technique. I have been researching for a long time this technique and finally find my way. Your way is worth to try. I will try your vinegar water mordant and soaking leaves with iron. I tried once dry eucalyptus leaves soaking the iron water but my result didn't good. I will try with new collected leaves :) You must share new videos about eco-print.
Thanks for your comments Yasemen, I'm glad you love my video! I'd be interested to hear how you get on with new collected leaves. Yes, I love eco-printing too and am editing another video this weekend - this time on felt, so I am not pre-mordanting with alum. I also tried an experiment by boiling it in a regular dye, rather than onion skins, as I wanted a nice blue colour. I hope you enjoy the video, it should be uploaded by the end of the weekend. :)
Aannsha Jones I will waiting your cotton and silk ecoprint tutorials :) . I 've never tried felt eco-print. I will watch your felt videos but I'm interesting cotton and silk fabrics. By the way if you on instagram you will check my eco-prints in my instagram page yasemensoysal I share my ecoprints. I will glad to if you see my works. :)
Thank you so much Aannsha for taking up the time to actually explain the process and the ingredients in such details. I am planning to start doing some dyeing and this very insightful and practical. keep up the good work and the explanation is awesome.
I like and subbed. Thank you for your very thorough directions. I'm a nature gal and can c how i can use this method for lots of different garments. Thank you😊
subscribed! I just started eco-printing and I did my first eucalyptus print yesterday!! I used aluminum acetate mordanted cotton and placed eucalyptus leaves down and then sprinkled ground cochineal beetles over. I probably steamed for an hour and a half to two hours. and I love my results!! I wish the eucalyptus prints had been more orange but I'll try more steaming next time!! any tips to get that coveted orange? thanks so much!! I can't wait for more eco-printing videos 😍🌿
Chelsey Kilgore that's exciting!To get more orange just try steaming for longer. I have also noticed that different eucalypts from my garden give up different amounts/shades of colour. What results did you get from the cochineal? ... strong red?
You give me the great . useful , unique and interesting knowledge...i'm very like and i'm very interesting to practice it..simple... Nat Ural...happy to meet you.. thanks
Patrice thank you for your tip! And if you can't get your hands on an iron pot, throw a few rusty nails or other rusty iron into the pot! Experimenting will give different results. Thanks for your comment Patrice
Hi Linda, thanks. First of all Washing soda, aka sodium carbonate (or soda ash) is not the same as the Alum mordant. Alum mordant can be either aluminium potassium sulfate (potash alum) or Aluminiumm acetate. I've only ever used aluminium potassium sulfate (which I call alum). I've always followed Jenny Dean's recommendation to use 8 percent of mordant crystals to fibre. So if you are going to mordant a fabric that weighs, say, 200g (as an example), you will need to use 16g of alum dissolved in 160ml of boiling water that you add to your mordant pot. You can also add cream of tartar to the mix to assist - check in Jenny Dean's book Wild Color, which is a great guide book. I hope that helps. :)
I’m confused, when you spray the clothing, you tell us that you spray with. an old solution of alum, soda ash and water, but you don’t actually give a recipe. You also didn’t mention adding anything to the pot of water. I have printed on silk and paper successfully but have yet to try cotton so I just want to get the recipe right 🥼 I know cotton is very different and harder to achieve prints. Your video is really good, but adding the quantities would be helpful 🙏
Sorry about that, I misunderstood what you were asking. I made up the spray with the quantities I explained above - enough to fill a spray bottle (depending on the size of your spray bottle: 8g alum to 100ml water ratio). I also added a teaspoon of washing soda to this solution. Washing soda is a suitable assistant to the Alum and is good to use on all fibres. Because I'd already eco-printed this tee shirt and it had been through many laundry washes, I figured it was already well 'pre-mordanted' hence using the spray bottle. I hope that helps clarify things. 🙂
what a wonderful video . thank you. i am trying so many times myself but with no luck. im getting my prints either to come out far to dark and just about the whole material turns black . (what am i doing wrong ? ) or the other problem is that when i do roll the fabric with the plastic, my fabric is constantly ending up with crinkled half prints some also blurry ????? can you help me with solving these issues.
If you're getting very dark prints, use less iron/iron water as it sounds like the solution is too strong. Don't put any iron into the bath. Blurry, crinkled prints ... it could be a few reasons. Bundling can be tricky so take your time and roll it carefully ensuring that with each roll you have everything as smooth as possible and as tight to the stick as possible. Tie it tightly to ensure all the plant material is firmly touching the cloth. See how that goes.
Thank you! I haven't heard of coral being used to eco print. You could use it to sun-dye your fabric with the coral casting its shape onto the fabric. This link will explain what I'm trying to say!! www.sheknows.com/living/articles/965403/how-to-sun-dye-fabric/
Gracias. Usé (1) vinagre y agua (50/50) - para remojar las hojas (2) Agua de hierro (hecha de clavos oxidados en agua): para sumergir las hojas, ayuda a unir las impresiones (3) Alumbre y bicarbonato de sodio en agua - a la camisa pre-mordiente. El alumbre también puede iluminar los colores.
Such a great video, thankyou for this! Can I also ask if you think this would work on thicker fabrics like woven cotton? Also what would you suggest during the boil /steam stage if it was a bigger piece of fabric instead?
Great video- I love this process, it's so creative! Thanks for generously sharing. The comment about using a copper pot is interesting. I am a jeweler and have plenty of scrap raw copper and some nickel around. What are your thoughts on using that in the pot to add additional mordants?
bls924 So glad you like the video thank you. I think the best thing is for you to experiment and keep a detailed journal as there are so many variables and outcomes. There is a 'theory' that having the mordant in the pot rather than on the material may make it less efficient. Again I'd suggest experimenting. I'd love to hear of your results. And if anyone has any thoughts/experiences about this please feel free to comment ☺
hasta que encuentro respuestas a mis dudas, muchas gracias por el video, una pregunta que mordantes pusiste a la olla en la que herviste la playera. muchas gracias
Solo usé agua para vaporizar la camiseta. El agua está coloreada porque he usado la sartén para teñir antes y el agua ha tomado el color de la sartén. Espero haber respondido a su pregunta.
@@AannshaJones Woww, jamas pensé respondería a mi duda, la técnica se me hace muy bonita. le pregunte a una conocida pero no me dijo bien como hacerlo y los girasoles silvestres que puse en mi tela para nada se marcaron, solo plastas de color ella me dijo que pusiera en agua caliente con vinagre y sal la tela y que así húmeda pusiera las flores y terminara el proceso, yo me imaginaba que las flores y hojas llevaban proceso también antes de ponerla a la tela. Intentare hacerla así como usted lo indica y espero tener resultados favorables, ya le estaré informando. usted no da clases en linea, así que le pague o no venderá algún libro para leer?? Muchas gracias.
Hi Aannsha I really liked your video I'm new to eco printing and found yur simple easy to follow instructions great the only thing I was wonder was how much alumn and washing soda you put in the water you sprayed on the t-shirt at the beginning. I think you have a lovely manner thank you! All the best, Patricia
Thanks Patricia. I've always followed Jenny Dean's recommendation to use 8 percent of mordant crystals to fibre. So if you are going to mordant a fabric that weighs, say, 200g (as an example), you will need to use 16g of alum dissolved in 160ml of boiling water that you add to your mordant pot. You can also add cream of tartar to the mix to assist - check in Jenny Dean's book Wild Color, which is a great guide book. I hope that helps. :)
Hola Aannsha!! muchas gracias por compartir esta información tan útil! Estoy haciendo ecoprint hace un tiempo, aplico los diseños a cuadernos artesanales. Quisiera pedirte si podrías indicarme por cuanto tiempo hay que remojar las hojas en agua y vinagre, antes de la solución de hierro. Quiero aprovechar el fin de semana para teñir!!!
Hi andrea schuh, I can hear your excitement! It's great to hear your results thanks so much for sharing. Sometimes eucalyptus leaves will impart different dyes one after another if you boil them long enough. I'd recommend India Flint's book if you want more information that. But a sure way for that orange is to source Silver Dollar eucalyptus leaves. They are the roundish leaves many florists use. Good luck, happy eco dyeing and I'd love to hear your next results!
Thanks! I don't have my journal with me at the moment (it's stored in Australia while I'm retired on a boat in the Mediterranean). But here's a link that you may find helpful for the mordanting process. :) www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/alum-tannin.html
Yes, you can dye it beforehand. It may be worth doing both and see what different effects you get. Some artists use alum, as well I believe in America, people who can a lot of their own vegetables. If you have a friend who does either, you may be able to buy some of theirs. You can do a simple search on google, or perhaps on Amazon for alum and have it mailed to you, here's a search result for "aluminium potassium sulfate" (alum): www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Darts-crafts&field-keywords=aluminium+potassium+sulfate&rh=n%3A2617941011%2Ck%3Aaluminium+potassium+sulfate I personally would much rather use Alum instead of copper or other mordants as it is far safer. (If you can use it in canning food, it must be safe)! Or, try googling "mordants and fixatives" and you will get many results, which give quite a few alternative solutions. One page in the google results was www.georgeweil.com/fact_file/mordants.aspx which gives a good understanding of different mordants that can be used for either silk/wool (protein) fibres and cotton/linen (cellulose) fibres. Other alternatives include high tannin substances such as pomegranate, which can be used as a dye in itself.
We love your video. were really struggling, as we don't like the black, that comes out from the leaves... How do we just get a divine browny tan colour from the leaves? We scour, in soda ash and we mordant with alum, but have just bought Gall nut powder..so keen to try this too Any help would great. Im making all my own Christmas pressies this year!
Hi Teja, thank you for your feedback! I haven't tried this method on anything but pure cotton, silk or wool, I'm sorry. Why don't you give it a go anyway as it's mostly made up of cotton.
Hi there, I’ve tried it and it successfully came out, however I’ve experimented a lot and the best results are preparing your fabric first and it can be a bit of a long process but so worth it once you get great bundle results. Scour 1 - 2 hrs in washing soda to remove any build up, waxed dirt etc. Then rinse, squeeze dry and pre-soak in soy milk (I tend to make my own vat of fresh soy milk because it gets expensive if you have to keep buying store bought + it’s not eco friendly buying packaged all the time). I usually soak in soy milk for about 1-2 days than without rinsing I drip dry until bone dry. This step is important especially for fibers like cotton or viscose, rayon or even linen as these fibers lack the protein that silk, wool, leather etc. by pre-soaking in soy milk and drying fabric it helps the fabric fibers absorb plant dyes or plant materials way better - it really makes a big difference ALSO on that note I found that multiple soaking in soy milk and drying out works best. Meaning repeating the soy milk preparation a few times yields a more stronger print. After you’ve dried your prepped cotton t shirt than I normally spray the t shirt with alum water I’ve pre mixed in an old spray nozzle bottle (mixing alum powder and water according to weight). Also ensure you Pre soak your plant material in either alum + water (20% alum 80% water - filtered water or rain water gives amazing results as tap water has a lot of chemicals used to clean water that can interfere with dyeing - believe me!) or water + vinegar (50% vinegar 50% water). The only other mordant that is sure fire is Iron water basically rust water. You can make rust water by just soaking bits of old tin lids or nails in water over time but this takes too long soooo just mix of steel scrubbers and nails or tin lids etc with hydrogen peroxide, salt and vinegar- it will rust any object in minutes. Keep this iron water or iron solution in a plastic container or glass but not metal. You can dilute this water to about 50-60% and it will still be effective. Use either the alum water or iron water to pre soak plant materials (up to 3 days or so can go longer depending on plant). And also in your spritzer bottle to pre spritz your fabric. Side note choosing the plants with the highest tannins will give the best prints too - all eucalyptus + their gumnuts, Japanese maple, Tibouchina Grandulosa leaves and buds - flowers can also be used but best for alum mordant if using flowers - the leaves and buds are best etc maybe find out your local native plants in your area. I’m fortunate to live in Australia - where eucalyptus is native tree and we have so many different spiecies. Once ALL the above is done you can lay your plant material down spritz your t shirt and lay out your design. Another side note like she did in video you can use plastic bag as the resist and it will keep your work from cross transferring and your eco print neater (if you want that kind of look). However you may like the wild, organic look of that? Steam for 1-2 hrs and I always turn my bundles as their steaming a few times. Another important piece of advice is to once your bundles have been steamed for a while, is to leave them bundled and wrapped for as long as you can stand it (few days or week) keep inside a plastic bag in cool area. Then unwrap. Let it dry slightly and then rinse in 20% baking soda + water (if you’ve used iron or copper mordant only). After all that - it’s done. This long version I’ve found through trial and much error gets best results. I hope that helps. I apologise for long winded essay response and not trying to upstage Anshasha - respect! I’m just a passionate and obsessed fellow Dyer whose had more failures than successes BUT learnt from all my failures. Just wanted to answer your question as thoroughly as I can. I have tried this above recipe on poly-cotton mixes and and it’s given great results. Eco dyeing and using natural plant dyes can have a lot of disheartening experiences especially if your new but it’s all worth it when you unbundle your first successful bundle(s). Once you hit success you just keep wanting to explore this medium more and more. Unfortunately not enough books or resources in terms of info on the subject and it tends to be the same kind of basic info repeated so it’s a fairly elusive art/craft. Anyway happy eco dyeing again sorry for long comment.
Also so sorry but one last thing to mention: iron water or iron mordant will darken your eco print. Gives strong print results with great staying power The print color is dark or black. However using an “Iron blanket” can make more color prints of the plant material - it creates beautiful outlines. (Just google “iron blanket - eco dyeing” because if u have to explain that here I will have to write another essay). Lastly for brighter colours I always stick to Alum as my mordant. To be honest besides copper - I prefer only alum and iron as my go-to mordants. Chrome is not safe and to be honest I’ve not yet used or probably never will. tin should only be used in small amounts - I recommend mix with another mordants. Copper is wonderful however can turn a lot of dyes green-ish hue (if that’s what your after than great!). Anyway, good luck on your dyers journey, I find that eco dyeing is more about trial and error and experiments because of the lack of info or resources out there.
It's a new way of printing method for me. But final photographs aren't clear. It's better ,If you could unfold the tee shirt after steaming also .Thank you very much for this video .
Mary Raab you could try that, although I'm not sure if it would be sufficient ... the bundles need boiling or steaming for at least an hour or two depending on the plant material used. I'd be interested to know what result you get. 🙂
Because new cotton is sometimes factory coated with starch, it is best to pre-scrub it to allow the natural dyes to take a good hold. One way is to boil/simmer your new tee shirt in a solution of water and washing soda (soda ash). When it is cool enough, give it a good scrub (wear rubber gloves). Then rinse it all out in fresh water. You can print on the tee shirt now. Or you can pre-mordant by dipping/drying x 5 or 6 times in soya milk. This provides protein in the material that helps the dyes to grab onto the fabric. Hope that helps.
AoA.. I tried it but not single leave have a remark on fabric and I don't know what's the issue . Can you please guide me where I m wrong in doing it? But I didn't use the iron solution , I just dip leaves in vinegar and water and then adjusted on a fabric and boiled it and even steamed it for hour.. but the fabric was as it is.. can you just tell me if there are specific leaves or fabric or anything wrong with my procedure.. please guide.. I have to do an assignment.
I don't have my journal with me at the moment (it's stored in Australia while I'm retired on a boat in the Mediterranean). But here's a link that you may find helpful for the mordanting process. :) www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/alum-tannin.html
Could you please say what type of Eucalyptus leaves you use to get red. I have tried at least 8 different eucalyptus trees in my garden and neighbourhood in Melbourne Australia. and I can't get a red colour. Feeling frustrated.
Diana I'm so sorry but I have no idea - I used the ones growing in my garden. What I can tell you is that I didn't get any decent results until I boiled/steamed them for at least 2 hours. How long are you 'cooking' your bundles?
Hi Aannsha, thanks so much for answering me. I am only steaming or boiling for 45 - 60 mins. I think leaving the bundle outside for at least 4 days improves the outline of the plant material, but I still haven't gotten a red/orange colour from my gum leaves. I will try the 2 hrs. To tell you the truth Aannsha, I am looking for the cheapest way to do it, as our power prices have risen so much recently it is really worrying.@@AannshaJones
@@dianaliddelow2064 I can understand the need to cut costs. I know it.is possible to leave the bumdles.soaking in glass jars in the sun but I didn't have the patience! I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with tje results if you boil for 2 hours. As long as you bring it to a boil you can reduce the heat so it is just simmering.
Thank you Aannsha......I really love the dark purple black colour you got. Is that because you use alum as a mordant as well as the vinegar?@@AannshaJones
Empapé las hojas en vinagre y agua (mezcla 50:50). Mojé las hojas en agua con hierro (hecha de clavos oxidados en agua) antes de colocarla sobre la tela.
I soaked the leaves first in vinegar and water (50:50) although you don't have to do this. Then I dipped the leaves into iron water (that I made from rusty nails soaked in water) just before I put them on the tee shirt.
What if you want bright colors the same as fall leaves instead of dark impressions of shrubbery and green leaves. How would I make that happen? Thanks...
Hi Alan, a mordant is a substance that helps the dye fix to the material. Some mordants include iron (rust water/ferrous), aluminium and copper. Some mordants work better with animal fibres (wool) while others work better with plant fibres (cotton). Some of these work better with an assistant (such as tannin). These can all make a difference to the shade or even colour of plant dye that you're using. This is quite a complex thing to try and explain here, so I'd suggest you try and source the book Wild Color by Jenny Dean (or similar books) that will explain the process and which mordants will be more likely to give you the outcome you're looking for. :)
Hi Alan, I would personally use Alum (aluminium potassium sulfate) as it generally gives bright colours with most dyes, it is easy to purchase on line and generally safer than, say, copper (however I'd check with your local authorities for safe disposal advice). But this is a complex subject Alan and I would suggest you research books, and also do colour tests yourself on samples of material, with different dyes, and keep a journal of your results so you can repeat the results you like. Hope that helps. :)
I wonder there will laundry and dye gonna fade? How I can stay dye on clothes when wash that dye won't fade? So what kind of plants? I am Deaf I read subtitles seemed not clear. Thank u
Hi Claudia J. I have checked the subtitles, as I make sure they are edited before I publish. If you click on your subtitles choice, make sure you choose the English subtitles, rather than the auto-translate ones. Plants - scroll down the information page under the video and all the details are written down there. Natural dyes do not last as long as synthetic dyes - 'mellowing' with age, and some will even fade in sunlight, depending on their light-fastness. I If you can use a pH neutral or gentle soap powder, that is a good option. I use a laundry liquid for sensitive skin which seems gentler. Some people also suggest using either salt in the wash, or vinegar in the rinse cycle (or both). You can also use a cool wash cycle. I personally don't worry about fading. Living in Queensland, Australia, I wear my tee shirts in harsh sunlight (can't avoid that!) and am fairly lazy, so wash my eco-printed tees with the normal wash. I do have tee shirts that I printed a couple of years ago that I have only just re-printed. But that's the best part about eco-printing - you can simply eco-print the clothes again!
Hi Aannsha, what a great video and explanation! I have a few questions... when boiling is it better fot ir to not be in the water? how much time you leave the rusty nails in the solution? can you dye the fabric at the same time you do the ecoprinting? thanks
Thank you Mafe! Basically, I'd suggest you experiment with all of those different options: With the boiling - you can do either, see which results you prefer. Same with the rusty nails. Leave them in for 30 minutes. Another batch, leave them in for the whole time. Try adding a dye too. I have made a video of ecoprinting a piece of felt and dyeing it with a blue dye. Take a look at that one. It will give you an idea of how that might work for you. Keep a journal of all of your results so you can repeat what you like. I hope that helps. :)
Natural dyes do not last as long as chemical dyes that you buy in shops, but to ensure they last as long as possible, I'd suggest: 1. Hang out to dry once you take the leaves off and let the natural dye dry into the fabric. Dry in the shade. 2. Iron the fabric 3. Leave the fabric for at least a week before washing in a gentle soap 4. Once washed, treat as normal, but use a gentle washing detergent. 5. Dry in the shade if possible. Having said that, I am lazy and always just used to put my tee shirts into a regular washing load with other clothes at stage 4. And hung them out with the other washing. The prints lasted up to two years. 6. When the prints eventually get too faded, just re-print with more leaves! I hope that helps. ;) Happy eco-printing!
Hi Cecilia, pick off the plant material when it's cold enough to handle. The following steps are a suggestion to help retain strong eco prints: Hang the t-shirt up to air dry in the shade. When it's dry iron it to 'set' the colours better. (Then leave it for a week - this step is optional). Gently hand wash in luke warm water and a little mild detergent to remove chemicals and any plant residue. Dry in the shade, iron and wear! 😀
Hi Jorgelina, I'd suggest that you get some swatches of old tee shirt and see how well the dyes you are using fix to the material. You can also purchase alum on line. The form of alum most often used to mordant fibre is Aluminium potassium sulphate (or potash alum). I have recently read that aloe vera is a good substitute, although I haven't tried it myself. You could also do some test swatches using that. Write all details and results in a journal so you can repeat the results you like.
You can use it as a pre-mordant before you eco print the material and/or you can use it in the dye bath as it improves colour fastness (washing and light). Mix with a little cream of tartar - but don't use too much as it can make fabricks sticky. I'd suggest reading Jenny Dean's books on dyeing, such as Wild Color for more in depth information.
I don't have the patience to wait until the bundle is dry, so I unfold it as soon as it cools down enough to touch. Other people recommend waiting until it is completely cold.
Hi Aannsha, thank you for this wonderful video! :)How lovely the room must have been smelling with that eucalyptus ;) Once I dyed an old, clean, cotton T-shirt with turmeric. The colour was so beautiful, but the armpits had not taken the turmeric. I think it was due to old deodorant stains that were so aggressive in the fabric. You know that deodorant that claims it will not leave white stains? But it did leave a thin chemical layer that is hard to wash out. Nowadays I don't use such harmful chemical deodorants anymore. I was wondering, did you ever experience this problem with old clean clothes that have old stains that cannot be washed out? How to solve it? Thank you. I wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy New Year. Groetjes from Amsterdam
Hi Inge thank you for your lovely message. I haven't had that happen with dyeing not taking but I do know what you mean with the coating as I have used that type of deodorant more recently. Here is a link you may find helpful. I would try using the vinegar solution first myself (I already have that at home). Do let me know what works for you. ☺ www.nivea.com.au/advice/skin
Thank you for your feedback - yes, I will definitely do that over the next few days. :) I will be adding more videos on eco-printing and wet-felting, so please subscribe (and click the bell) if you would like to be notified of them when they come out. :)
Ok, você pode obter as legendas em seu idioma. Aqui estão as instruções: Para escolher um idioma de legenda diferente: No canto inferior direito, clique em Configurações Clique em Legendas / CC Selecione um idioma. Se o idioma não estiver listado quando você clicar em Legendas / CC: Clique em Traduzir automaticamente. Selecione um idioma. Eledir, espero que ajude. :)
Thank you for the nice and informative video! Do you have any advice on what chemicals to use for doing this with petals rather than green leaves? How would you do it/have you tried it?
Atelie Trion Thanks! I wash mine in the washing machine with other clothes and the colours held for a long time. You may find washing in a pH neutral soap keeps the colour for longer. But my tees hold the colour for ages. ONE strong recommendation is that you do not wash the tee shirt for at least a week after you eco-print it. That way the colour has a chance to really bind to the material. I usually let it dry then iron it.
Hi, Annsha Thanks for making this video.I have some doubt about how long I have to soak the leaf in vinegar-water solution and the fabric or garment have to steam or boil.
Hi Sheela Jena, thank you for your feedback! I just put the leaves into the vinegar-water just before using. Then I spray the fabric/garment before I place the leaves. If you're using eucalyptus leaves you'll need to steam/boil for at least 1.5-2 hours as it takes a while before they give up their dye. Other leaves/ flowers won't need as long. I suggest you do little experiments and write the results in a book, so you can repeat (although it'll never be an exact replica) your results. Hope that helps.
Aannsha Jones I ´ve heard from an eco print dyer she soaks the leaves a full night before using them. Does the vinegar water solution need to be heated before soaking the leaves? Is if usefull to press the leaves and material togheter with a rolling spin or a glass bottle to extract the sap and inbetter the proccess. What workes the best cellulosic fibers like cotton or linen or proteinic ones like wool or silk? Many many thanks for this video👍🏻😘👍🏻
If you are using eucalyptus leaves, you have to simmer it for that length of time to help release the dyes from the leaves. Other, softer plant material may not need as long. I encourage you to experiment and keep a journal of your results.
It look like you used just native plants, could you use flowers like roses to transfer the various colors. It was interesting to see the process. Thank you
stuegor Yes, I have used roses. leaves worked well but I only had pink flowers and would like to rey red ones. Some plants give amazingly strong colours. Others can be disappointing. It is worth researching and also note taking (as I mentioned). Mordants, and different processes can achieve varying results. I'm glad you found it interesting.
Not as permanent as synthetic dyes. Some will last longer than others. Some fade quickly in light. If you do a google search for "list of natural dyes lightfast" you'll get lots of useful information.
You're correct Paul Henry, it is an assistant. Thank you for pointing out my mistake :) Perhaps you would like to explain briefly the difference between a mordant and an assistant?
With natural dyeing A mordant is something that helps bind a dyestuff to a fibre, some dyes don't easily attach to some fibres, but if the fibres are pre treated with a mordant , which easily stick to the fibre, then the dye stuff will stick to the mordant. Typical mordants are alum, tannin,iron (various compounds), copper sulphate, but it's also possible to use natural plant materials as well, such as heuchera root An assistant usually only changes the pH of the dye bath which will affect colouring, vinegar or washing soda are two of the most common assistants
Maribel Longueira Hi Maribel, when you say second solution, do you mean the one I soaked the leaves in? If so that was 50% vinegar and 50% water. The brown liquid that I dipped the leaves in was Iron (ferrous) water. That was made by soaking rusty nails in water with a little vinegar. You can make up a solution using Ferrous Sulphate dissolved in water. I hope that helps.
Yes, that solution was an old one that I had made up from before - so I don't have the exact measurements. It was washing soda and alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) dissolved in water.
It doesn't have to be, but it is already 'pre-treated' by lots of laundry washing. Sorry this is a late reply Jerry, but I've only just come across your comment.
![Plant Magic - Eco-Printing with Jennifer Johnson [Artist Portrait]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UIHPsK4SdpU/mqdefault.jpg)
I was researching how to use plants to dye some of my babies onsies, but this is even better! Thanks for sharing!
I'm so glad you found it helpful! 🤗
Thank you ,AANNSHA.Your prog. is very clear.Thank you.
thank you Annsha, for a very relaxed and informative video...I also work with eco dying, botanical printing, I cant make up my mind what exactly to call it. I work with silk scarves and call them happening scarves as I never know what will happen when they are unrolled. it is so much fun I have just started to use shirts so it was good to see how you have done it...i live on the gold coast Australia... thanks again colleen clark
Hi Colleen, thanks for your feedback. I love the sound of your silk scarves and "happening" is a great name. I used to live on the sunshine coast, but have now retired and live on a yacht-home "A B Sea", currently in the Mediterranean. But my husband and I are planning on coming home one day ... All the best with your happening scarves.
Thank you so much for your detailed and thoughtfully presented video! I’m fascinated by this process
Thanks for your feedback Lydia. I'm glad you enjoyed it. I find it an amazing process too. :)
"It is advisable to wear gloves and a mask when working with rust, as the iron will try to bind with your haemoglobin, blocking all available sites for oxygen. The tolerance to raw iron varies from person to person, and some people can become gravely ill from too much contact with raw iron products" The Found Object in Textile Art by Cas Holmes. This warning is even more applicable in the days of covid and widespread lung damage.
thank you for giving a good explanation of the chemicals. very good tutorial
art room Thank you for your feedback and I'm glad you liked tbe video. I am editing a couple of other tutorials - another on making felt (wet felt), also showing how to lay out the wool for a design, and another on eco-printing a piece of felt. If you are interested please subscribe for notification. Thanks!
Great idea.Thankyou so much for the wonderful explanation.
You are so welcome!
Thanks great easy to understand instructions
Thank you! You help me very much with this video.
Loved the out come.
Yes I was really happy with it
What a beneficial video for eco-print! I love your video. I was doing eco-print officially
5 months and love this technique. I have been researching for a long time this technique and finally find my way. Your way is worth to try. I will try your vinegar water mordant and soaking leaves with iron. I tried once dry eucalyptus leaves soaking the iron water but my result didn't good. I will try with new collected leaves :) You must share new videos about eco-print.
Thanks for your comments Yasemen, I'm glad you love my video! I'd be interested to hear how you get on with new collected leaves. Yes, I love eco-printing too and am editing another video this weekend - this time on felt, so I am not pre-mordanting with alum. I also tried an experiment by boiling it in a regular dye, rather than onion skins, as I wanted a nice blue colour. I hope you enjoy the video, it should be uploaded by the end of the weekend. :)
Aannsha Jones I will waiting your cotton and silk ecoprint tutorials :) . I 've never tried felt eco-print. I will watch your felt videos but I'm interesting cotton and silk fabrics. By the way if you on instagram you will check my eco-prints in my instagram page yasemensoysal I share my ecoprints. I will glad to if you see my works. :)
Thank you so much Aannsha for taking up the time to actually explain the process and the ingredients in such details. I am planning to start doing some dyeing and this very insightful and practical. keep up the good work and the explanation is awesome.
Thank you and I'm so glad you've found this helpful. All the best with your own dyeing and printing. 🙂
Excellent video! Thank you so much!
So glad you liked it Lydia, thanks for letting me know. :)
Really very helpful!
very clear and consise video thank you
Thanks Colleen. :)
thank you this video helped me🌸
Thank you for sharing.
I am glad you have found it useful.
👍 very nice thanks,
Glad you liked it!
What a great video thank you so much. Looks so beautiful
Thank you Missy Craft :)
Aannsha Jones thank you for the info. This is very helpful :)
Absolutely amazing keep it up 👍👑✅👏👏👏
Thank you so much 😀
From Pak🕊Just wonderful, amazing and beautiful. Thank you very much.
Thank you so much. :)
Awesome big like friends
Thank you
Hermoso trabajo,
Muchas gracias!
Wonderful video and no annoying background music
Thank you Gwen!
Obrigada,seu vídeo foi simples e esclarecedor!
rosilene carmo thank you and glad you liked it :)
👍 Bendecido día Amiga. Saludos
Gracias!
I like and subbed. Thank you for your very thorough directions. I'm a nature gal and can
c how i can use this method for lots of different garments. Thank you😊
Thanks for subbing!
Nice video thanks
Thanks!
Thanks!
subscribed! I just started eco-printing and I did my first eucalyptus print yesterday!! I used aluminum acetate mordanted cotton and placed eucalyptus leaves down and then sprinkled ground cochineal beetles over. I probably steamed for an hour and a half to two hours. and I love my results!! I wish the eucalyptus prints had been more orange but I'll try more steaming next time!! any tips to get that coveted orange? thanks so much!! I can't wait for more eco-printing videos 😍🌿
Chelsey Kilgore that's exciting!To get more orange just try steaming for longer. I have also noticed that different eucalypts from my garden give up different amounts/shades of colour. What results did you get from the cochineal? ... strong red?
На русском было бы круче.
Thanks
Thank you very much
I'm glad you found it helpful Darti
Best vdo. for me..thank you so much.
So glad you liked it. Thank you for letting me know. 😊
You give me the great . useful , unique and interesting knowledge...i'm very like and i'm very interesting to practice it..simple... Nat Ural...happy to meet you.. thanks
endang pujia So glad it is helpful for you and lovely to meet you too. ☺
This is absolutely beautiful. Thrilling. Greetings and thank you.
Thank you! Glad you like it. 😀
Fascinating.....
You could use an old cast iron pot of water for the rust water. Every old cast iron pot I've ever 'redone or cured was covered with rust :)
Patrice thank you for your tip! And if you can't get your hands on an iron pot, throw a few rusty nails or other rusty iron into the pot! Experimenting will give different results. Thanks for your comment Patrice
Gracias vídeo en español saludos de Chile
¡Hola! He agregado subtítulos en español a este video para ti.
خیلی زیباست
ممنون حسن
Great info thank you. Please can you tell us more about the alum washing soda spray, quantities etc thank you 🙏
Hi Linda, thanks. First of all Washing soda, aka sodium carbonate (or soda ash) is not the same as the Alum mordant. Alum mordant can be either aluminium potassium sulfate (potash alum) or Aluminiumm acetate. I've only ever used aluminium potassium sulfate (which I call alum).
I've always followed Jenny Dean's recommendation to use 8 percent of mordant crystals to fibre. So if you are going to mordant a fabric that weighs, say, 200g (as an example), you will need to use 16g of alum dissolved in 160ml of boiling water that you add to your mordant pot. You can also add cream of tartar to the mix to assist - check in Jenny Dean's book Wild Color, which is a great guide book. I hope that helps. :)
Thank you, you had it in a spray bottle, what is the recipe for your mix? ie; how much water /washing soda/alum to add ? Great video!
@@lindabrownartist just use the proportions I have give you 😉
I’m confused, when you spray the clothing, you tell us that you spray with. an old solution of alum, soda ash and water, but you don’t actually give a recipe. You also didn’t mention adding anything to the pot of water. I have printed on silk and paper successfully but have yet to try cotton so I just want to get the recipe right 🥼 I know cotton is very different and harder to achieve prints. Your video is really good, but adding the quantities would be helpful 🙏
Sorry about that, I misunderstood what you were asking. I made up the spray with the quantities I explained above - enough to fill a spray bottle (depending on the size of your spray bottle: 8g alum to 100ml water ratio). I also added a teaspoon of washing soda to this solution. Washing soda is a suitable assistant to the Alum and is good to use on all fibres. Because I'd already eco-printed this tee shirt and it had been through many laundry washes, I figured it was already well 'pre-mordanted' hence using the spray bottle. I hope that helps clarify things. 🙂
Nice job
Thanks!
what a wonderful video . thank you. i am trying so many times myself but with no luck. im getting my prints either to come out far to dark and just about the whole material turns black . (what am i doing wrong ? )
or the other problem is that when i do roll the fabric with the plastic, my fabric is constantly ending up with crinkled half prints some also blurry ????? can you help me with solving these issues.
If you're getting very dark prints, use less iron/iron water as it sounds like the solution is too strong. Don't put any iron into the bath. Blurry, crinkled prints ... it could be a few reasons. Bundling can be tricky so take your time and roll it carefully ensuring that with each roll you have everything as smooth as possible and as tight to the stick as possible. Tie it tightly to ensure all the plant material is firmly touching the cloth. See how that goes.
I like and interesting your tutorial video..what solution do you use to dip the leaves and flower s before you put on shirt
Hi endang pujia, I have put the solution in the section just under the video and above these commets. :)
Amazing video. Very helpful.
I would like to ask if there's a way in which we can use corals to print on fabric?
Thank you! I haven't heard of coral being used to eco print. You could use it to sun-dye your fabric with the coral casting its shape onto the fabric. This link will explain what I'm trying to say!! www.sheknows.com/living/articles/965403/how-to-sun-dye-fabric/
Thank you so much.
Hola, muy bonito quedó, con que producto fija el estampado?
Gracias.
Usé (1) vinagre y agua (50/50) - para remojar las hojas
(2) Agua de hierro (hecha de clavos oxidados en agua): para sumergir las hojas, ayuda a unir las impresiones
(3) Alumbre y bicarbonato de sodio en agua - a la camisa pre-mordiente. El alumbre también puede iluminar los colores.
Such a great video, thankyou for this!
Can I also ask if you think this would work on thicker fabrics like woven cotton?
Also what would you suggest during the boil /steam stage if it was a bigger piece of fabric instead?
Yes, it will work on thicker fabrics :)
@@AannshaJones thankyou! 😊
Great video- I love this process, it's so creative! Thanks for generously sharing. The comment about using a copper pot is interesting. I am a jeweler and have plenty of scrap raw copper and some nickel around. What are your thoughts on using that in the pot to add additional mordants?
bls924 So glad you like the video thank you. I think the best thing is for you to experiment and keep a detailed journal as there are so many variables and outcomes. There is a 'theory' that having the mordant in the pot rather than on the material may make it less efficient. Again I'd suggest experimenting. I'd love to hear of your results. And if anyone has any thoughts/experiences about this please feel free to comment ☺
hasta que encuentro respuestas a mis dudas, muchas gracias por el video, una pregunta que mordantes pusiste a la olla en la que herviste la playera. muchas gracias
Solo usé agua para vaporizar la camiseta. El agua está coloreada porque he usado la sartén para teñir antes y el agua ha tomado el color de la sartén. Espero haber respondido a su pregunta.
@@AannshaJones Woww, jamas pensé respondería a mi duda, la técnica se me hace muy bonita. le pregunte a una conocida pero no me dijo bien como hacerlo y los girasoles silvestres que puse en mi tela para nada se marcaron, solo plastas de color ella me dijo que pusiera en agua caliente con vinagre y sal la tela y que así húmeda pusiera las flores y terminara el proceso, yo me imaginaba que las flores y hojas llevaban proceso también antes de ponerla a la tela. Intentare hacerla así como usted lo indica y espero tener resultados favorables, ya le estaré informando.
usted no da clases en linea, así que le pague o no venderá algún libro para leer??
Muchas gracias.
Hi Aannsha I really liked your video I'm new to eco printing and found yur simple easy to follow instructions great the only thing I was wonder was how much alumn and washing soda you put in the water you sprayed on the t-shirt at the beginning. I think you have a lovely manner thank you! All the best, Patricia
Thanks Patricia.
I've always followed Jenny Dean's recommendation to use 8 percent of mordant crystals to fibre. So if you are going to mordant a fabric that weighs, say, 200g (as an example), you will need to use 16g of alum dissolved in 160ml of boiling water that you add to your mordant pot. You can also add cream of tartar to the mix to assist - check in Jenny Dean's book Wild Color, which is a great guide book. I hope that helps. :)
@@AannshaJones Thanks Aannsha thats great and yes really helpful. All the best, Patricia
Cool. Glad to help :)
Hola Aannsha!! muchas gracias por compartir esta información tan útil! Estoy haciendo ecoprint hace un tiempo, aplico los diseños a cuadernos artesanales. Quisiera pedirte si podrías indicarme por cuanto tiempo hay que remojar las hojas en agua y vinagre, antes de la solución de hierro. Quiero aprovechar el fin de semana para teñir!!!
Hi andrea schuh, I can hear your excitement! It's great to hear your results thanks so much for sharing. Sometimes eucalyptus leaves will impart different dyes one after another if you boil them long enough. I'd recommend India Flint's book if you want more information that. But a sure way for that orange is to source Silver Dollar eucalyptus leaves. They are the roundish leaves many florists use. Good luck, happy eco dyeing and I'd love to hear your next results!
رجاءأ ماهو محلول التنقيع قبل وضع الور ق على التيشرت
كنت الخل والماء (50:50) لنقع الأوراق والمياه الحديدية (مصنوعة من مسامير صدئة غارقة في الماء) لتراجع الأوراق قبل وضعها على قميص الإنطلاق.
lovely video indeed! hey, I had one question. what is the proportion of alum, soda and water that you said " some old solution?
Thanks! I don't have my journal with me at the moment (it's stored in Australia while I'm retired on a boat in the Mediterranean). But here's a link that you may find helpful for the mordanting process. :) www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/alum-tannin.html
Shrestha Halder I also have this question. Did you decide what to do?
Is there an alternative treatment on the clothes other than alum as I can't get that easily? Can the fabric be dry prior to laying on the leaves?
Yes, you can dye it beforehand. It may be worth doing both and see what different effects you get.
Some artists use alum, as well I believe in America, people who can a lot of their own vegetables. If you have a friend who does either, you may be able to buy some of theirs.
You can do a simple search on google, or perhaps on Amazon for alum and have it mailed to you, here's a search result for "aluminium potassium sulfate" (alum): www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Darts-crafts&field-keywords=aluminium+potassium+sulfate&rh=n%3A2617941011%2Ck%3Aaluminium+potassium+sulfate
I personally would much rather use Alum instead of copper or other mordants as it is far safer. (If you can use it in canning food, it must be safe)!
Or, try googling "mordants and fixatives" and you will get many results, which give quite a few alternative solutions. One page in the google results was www.georgeweil.com/fact_file/mordants.aspx which gives a good understanding of different mordants that can be used for either silk/wool (protein) fibres and cotton/linen (cellulose) fibres. Other alternatives include high tannin substances such as pomegranate, which can be used as a dye in itself.
We love your video. were really struggling, as we don't like the black, that comes out from the leaves... How do we just get a divine browny tan colour from the leaves? We scour, in soda ash and we mordant with alum, but have just bought Gall nut powder..so keen to try this too Any help would great. Im making all my own Christmas pressies this year!
Christmas presents are a great idea! I found that dipping in iron solution gives you black. So omit that and just dip them in vinegar/water solution.
Hi, have you tried on a shirt that is 94% cotton and 4% elasthan? Thanks for answering, this video is far the best one...
Hi Teja, thank you for your feedback! I haven't tried this method on anything but pure cotton, silk or wool, I'm sorry. Why don't you give it a go anyway as it's mostly made up of cotton.
@@AannshaJones thanks I will try. It was quite difficult to get alum here but can't wait to try now!
Hi there, I’ve tried it and it successfully came out, however I’ve experimented a lot and the best results are preparing your fabric first and it can be a bit of a long process but so worth it once you get great bundle results. Scour 1 - 2 hrs in washing soda to remove any build up, waxed dirt etc. Then rinse, squeeze dry and pre-soak in soy milk (I tend to make my own vat of fresh soy milk because it gets expensive if you have to keep buying store bought + it’s not eco friendly buying packaged all the time). I usually soak in soy milk for about 1-2 days than without rinsing I drip dry until bone dry. This step is important especially for fibers like cotton or viscose, rayon or even linen as these fibers lack the protein that silk, wool, leather etc. by pre-soaking in soy milk and drying fabric it helps the fabric fibers absorb plant dyes or plant materials way better - it really makes a big difference ALSO on that note I found that multiple soaking in soy milk and drying out works best. Meaning repeating the soy milk preparation a few times yields a more stronger print. After you’ve dried your prepped cotton t shirt than I normally spray the t shirt with alum water I’ve pre mixed in an old spray nozzle bottle (mixing alum powder and water according to weight). Also ensure you Pre soak your plant material in either alum + water (20% alum 80% water - filtered water or rain water gives amazing results as tap water has a lot of chemicals used to clean water that can interfere with dyeing - believe me!) or water + vinegar (50% vinegar 50% water). The only other mordant that is sure fire is Iron water basically rust water. You can make rust water by just soaking bits of old tin lids or nails in water over time but this takes too long soooo just mix of steel scrubbers and nails or tin lids etc with hydrogen peroxide, salt and vinegar- it will rust any object in minutes. Keep this iron water or iron solution in a plastic container or glass but not metal. You can dilute this water to about 50-60% and it will still be effective. Use either the alum water or iron water to pre soak plant materials (up to 3 days or so can go longer depending on plant).
And also in your spritzer bottle to pre spritz your fabric. Side note choosing the plants with the highest tannins will give the best prints too - all eucalyptus + their gumnuts, Japanese maple, Tibouchina Grandulosa leaves and buds - flowers can also be used but best for alum mordant if using flowers - the leaves and buds are best etc maybe find out your local native plants in your area. I’m fortunate to live in Australia - where eucalyptus is native tree and we have so many different spiecies.
Once ALL the above is done you can lay your plant material down spritz your t shirt and lay out your design. Another side note like she did in video you can use plastic bag as the resist and it will keep your work from cross transferring and your eco print neater (if you want that kind of look). However you may like the wild, organic look of that? Steam for 1-2 hrs and I always turn my bundles as their steaming a few times. Another important piece of advice is to once your bundles have been steamed for a while, is to leave them bundled and wrapped for as long as you can stand it (few days or week) keep inside a plastic bag in cool area. Then unwrap. Let it dry slightly and then rinse in 20% baking soda + water (if you’ve used iron or copper mordant only). After all that - it’s done. This long version I’ve found through trial and much error gets best results. I hope that helps.
I apologise for long winded essay response and not trying to upstage Anshasha - respect! I’m just a passionate and obsessed fellow Dyer whose had more failures than successes BUT learnt from all my failures. Just wanted to answer your question as thoroughly as I can. I have tried this above recipe on poly-cotton mixes and and it’s given great results. Eco dyeing and using natural plant dyes can have a lot of disheartening experiences especially if your new but it’s all worth it when you unbundle your first successful bundle(s). Once you hit success you just keep wanting to explore this medium more and more. Unfortunately not enough books or resources in terms of info on the subject and it tends to be the same kind of basic info repeated so it’s a fairly elusive art/craft. Anyway happy eco dyeing again sorry for long comment.
Also so sorry but one last thing to mention: iron water or iron mordant will darken your eco print. Gives strong print results with great staying power The print color is dark or black. However using an “Iron blanket” can make more color prints of the plant material - it creates beautiful outlines. (Just google “iron blanket - eco dyeing” because if u have to explain that here I will have to write another essay). Lastly for brighter colours I always stick to Alum as my mordant. To be honest besides copper - I prefer only alum and iron as my go-to mordants. Chrome is not safe and to be honest I’ve not yet used or probably never will. tin should only be used in small amounts - I recommend mix with another mordants. Copper is wonderful however can turn a lot of dyes green-ish hue (if that’s what your after than great!). Anyway, good luck on your dyers journey, I find that eco dyeing is more about trial and error and experiments because of the lack of info or resources out there.
It's a new way of printing method for me. But final photographs aren't clear. It's better ,If you could unfold the tee shirt after steaming also .Thank you very much for this video .
I'm glad you've found a new way of printing. :)
Would it be possible to use a steam iron and iron over the plant materials for this project?
Mary Raab you could try that, although I'm not sure if it would be sufficient ... the bundles need boiling or steaming for at least an hour or two depending on the plant material used. I'd be interested to know what result you get. 🙂
Hi thanks so much, do you use a pre mordant on new tshirts?
Because new cotton is sometimes factory coated with starch, it is best to pre-scrub it to allow the natural dyes to take a good hold. One way is to boil/simmer your new tee shirt in a solution of water and washing soda (soda ash). When it is cool enough, give it a good scrub (wear rubber gloves). Then rinse it all out in fresh water. You can print on the tee shirt now. Or you can pre-mordant by dipping/drying x 5 or 6 times in soya milk. This provides protein in the material that helps the dyes to grab onto the fabric. Hope that helps.
Aannsha Jones thank you, just supermarket soya milk?
No worries @@lindabrownartist! Yes, supermarket soya milk. :)
Aannsha Jones I’d imagine a smelly t shirt!
@@lindabrownartist Lol, that's why I don't premordant but use older tees
Hi, could I also boil the bundle in water instead of steaming?
Alivre Lima Hi, yes you could. And if you add onion skins or other plant material, you will also get colour imparted that way too.
For how long?
1 hour, then check the colour and if not strong enough bundle up again and keep simmering (about 80*C)
Fantástico en español¡
AoA.. I tried it but not single leave have a remark on fabric and I don't know what's the issue . Can you please guide me where I m wrong in doing it? But I didn't use the iron solution , I just dip leaves in vinegar and water and then adjusted on a fabric and boiled it and even steamed it for hour.. but the fabric was as it is.. can you just tell me if there are specific leaves or fabric or anything wrong with my procedure.. please guide.. I have to do an assignment.
How much alum water and soda ash to make the solution
I don't have my journal with me at the moment (it's stored in Australia while I'm retired on a boat in the Mediterranean). But here's a link that you may find helpful for the mordanting process. :) www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/alum-tannin.html
Could you please say what type of Eucalyptus leaves you use to get red. I have tried at least 8 different eucalyptus trees in my garden and neighbourhood in Melbourne Australia. and I can't get a red colour. Feeling frustrated.
Diana I'm so sorry but I have no idea - I used the ones growing in my garden. What I can tell you is that I didn't get any decent results until I boiled/steamed them for at least 2 hours. How long are you 'cooking' your bundles?
Hi Aannsha, thanks so much for answering me. I am only steaming or boiling for 45 - 60 mins.
I think leaving the bundle outside for at least 4 days improves the outline of the plant material, but I still haven't gotten a red/orange colour from my gum leaves. I will try the 2 hrs. To tell you the truth Aannsha, I am looking for the cheapest way to do it, as our power prices have risen so much recently it is really worrying.@@AannshaJones
@@dianaliddelow2064 I can understand the need to cut costs. I know it.is possible to leave the bumdles.soaking in glass jars in the sun but I didn't have the patience! I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with tje results if you boil for 2 hours. As long as you bring it to a boil you can reduce the heat so it is just simmering.
Thank you Aannsha......I really love the dark purple black colour you got. Is that because you use alum as a mordant as well as the vinegar?@@AannshaJones
@@dianaliddelow2064that would be the iron water which darkens colours and the bottle brush flowers
Y en que producto introduce las hojas?
Empapé las hojas en vinagre y agua (mezcla 50:50).
Mojé las hojas en agua con hierro (hecha de clavos oxidados en agua) antes de colocarla sobre la tela.
@@AannshaJones muchas gracias por contestar Aannsha Jones , muchas gracias 🙏🙏🙏
@@mariacordoba1332 Eres muy bienvenida! 😊
Que água é essa que ela molha as folhas?
I soaked the leaves first in vinegar and water (50:50) although you don't have to do this.
Then I dipped the leaves into iron water (that I made from rusty nails soaked in water) just before I put them on the tee shirt.
What if you want bright colors the same as fall leaves instead of dark impressions of shrubbery and green leaves. How would I make that happen? Thanks...
Don't use an iron mordant as that darkens colours. Use a mordant that brightens ☺
I'm sorry , I'm a novice at this...I don't know what a mordant is :(
Hi Alan, a mordant is a substance that helps the dye fix to the material. Some mordants include iron (rust water/ferrous), aluminium and copper. Some mordants work better with animal fibres (wool) while others work better with plant fibres (cotton). Some of these work better with an assistant (such as tannin). These can all make a difference to the shade or even colour of plant dye that you're using. This is quite a complex thing to try and explain here, so I'd suggest you try and source the book Wild Color by Jenny Dean (or similar books) that will explain the process and which mordants will be more likely to give you the outcome you're looking for. :)
Thankyou Aannsha! Can you give me an example of a mordant that would brighten colors?
Hi Alan, I would personally use Alum (aluminium potassium sulfate) as it generally gives bright colours with most dyes, it is easy to purchase on line and generally safer than, say, copper (however I'd check with your local authorities for safe disposal advice). But this is a complex subject Alan and I would suggest you research books, and also do colour tests yourself on samples of material, with different dyes, and keep a journal of your results so you can repeat the results you like. Hope that helps. :)
I wonder there will laundry and dye gonna fade? How I can stay dye on clothes when wash that dye won't fade? So what kind of plants? I am Deaf I read subtitles seemed not clear. Thank u
One more, Why there are no water with cloth?
Hi Claudia J. I have checked the subtitles, as I make sure they are edited before I publish. If you click on your subtitles choice, make sure you choose the English subtitles, rather than the auto-translate ones.
Plants - scroll down the information page under the video and all the details are written down there.
Natural dyes do not last as long as synthetic dyes - 'mellowing' with age, and some will even fade in sunlight, depending on their light-fastness. I If you can use a pH neutral or gentle soap powder, that is a good option. I use a laundry liquid for sensitive skin which seems gentler. Some people also suggest using either salt in the wash, or vinegar in the rinse cycle (or both). You can also use a cool wash cycle.
I personally don't worry about fading. Living in Queensland, Australia, I wear my tee shirts in harsh sunlight (can't avoid that!) and am fairly lazy, so wash my eco-printed tees with the normal wash. I do have tee shirts that I printed a couple of years ago that I have only just re-printed. But that's the best part about eco-printing - you can simply eco-print the clothes again!
I completely soaked the cloth by spraying it with the vinegar/water spray. :)
por cuento tiempo lo dejaste al vapor ?
How long did I steam it for? I steamed it for 2 hours. Lo herví durante 2 horas
2 horas
Que componente tiene para que se afirme el color al final del proceso
Hi Aannsha, what a great video and explanation! I have a few questions... when boiling is it better fot ir to not be in the water? how much time you leave the rusty nails in the solution? can you dye the fabric at the same time you do the ecoprinting? thanks
Thank you Mafe! Basically, I'd suggest you experiment with all of those different options: With the boiling - you can do either, see which results you prefer. Same with the rusty nails. Leave them in for 30 minutes. Another batch, leave them in for the whole time. Try adding a dye too. I have made a video of ecoprinting a piece of felt and dyeing it with a blue dye. Take a look at that one. It will give you an idea of how that might work for you. Keep a journal of all of your results so you can repeat what you like. I hope that helps. :)
@@AannshaJones Thank you very much for answering Aannsha and for the suggestions!
@@mafeecheverri8077 I'm glad I could give you some food for thought Mafe. :)
How treatment so that the printing durable after washed
Natural dyes do not last as long as chemical dyes that you buy in shops, but to ensure they last as long as possible, I'd suggest:
1. Hang out to dry once you take the leaves off and let the natural dye dry into the fabric. Dry in the shade.
2. Iron the fabric
3. Leave the fabric for at least a week before washing in a gentle soap
4. Once washed, treat as normal, but use a gentle washing detergent.
5. Dry in the shade if possible.
Having said that, I am lazy and always just used to put my tee shirts into a regular washing load with other clothes at stage 4. And hung them out with the other washing. The prints lasted up to two years.
6. When the prints eventually get too faded, just re-print with more leaves!
I hope that helps. ;) Happy eco-printing!
Can any type of vinegar can be used?
Yes, any household or cooking vinegar
Hi, what do you do after you unfold the t-shirt?
Hi Cecilia, pick off the plant material when it's cold enough to handle. The following steps are a suggestion to help retain strong eco prints:
Hang the t-shirt up to air dry in the shade. When it's dry iron it to 'set' the colours better. (Then leave it for a week - this step is optional). Gently hand wash in luke warm water and a little mild detergent to remove chemicals and any plant residue. Dry in the shade, iron and wear! 😀
@@AannshaJones thank you 😊
Hello Aannsha,is alum essential? I can't find it in my city. Or can it be replaced with something else?
Hi Jorgelina, I'd suggest that you get some swatches of old tee shirt and see how well the dyes you are using fix to the material. You can also purchase alum on line. The form of alum most often used to mordant fibre is Aluminium potassium sulphate (or potash alum). I have recently read that aloe vera is a good substitute, although I haven't tried it myself. You could also do some test swatches using that. Write all details and results in a journal so you can repeat the results you like.
When do you use the alum ?
You can use it as a pre-mordant before you eco print the material and/or you can use it in the dye bath as it improves colour fastness (washing and light). Mix with a little cream of tartar - but don't use too much as it can make fabricks sticky. I'd suggest reading Jenny Dean's books on dyeing, such as Wild Color for more in depth information.
You dont mention what do you do after steaming... you unfold it while still wet? or you dry it first?
I don't have the patience to wait until the bundle is dry, so I unfold it as soon as it cools down enough to touch. Other people recommend waiting until it is completely cold.
What it's your spray to the t_shitr
I used alum and washing soda in water - as a pre-mordant for the shirt. Alum can also brighten colours
Hola !! alguien sabe con que humedece la tela ??
Hola! Lavé la camiseta con alumbre y soda de lavado en agua, hasta la camiseta pre-mordiente. El alumbre también puede iluminar los colores
How long would it last
A lot depends on how often you wash it, how light fast the different eco dyes are. Mine lasted a long time.
Hi Aannsha, thank you for this wonderful video! :)How lovely the room must have been smelling with that eucalyptus ;)
Once I dyed an old, clean, cotton T-shirt with turmeric. The colour was so beautiful, but the armpits had not taken the turmeric. I think it was due to old deodorant stains that were so aggressive in the fabric. You know that deodorant that claims it will not leave white stains? But it did leave a thin chemical layer that is hard to wash out. Nowadays I don't use such harmful chemical deodorants anymore. I was wondering, did you ever experience this problem with old clean clothes that have old stains that cannot be washed out? How to solve it? Thank you. I wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy New Year. Groetjes from Amsterdam
Hi Inge thank you for your lovely message. I haven't had that happen with dyeing not taking but I do know what you mean with the coating as I have used that type of deodorant more recently. Here is a link you may find helpful. I would try using the vinegar solution first myself (I already have that at home). Do let me know what works for you. ☺ www.nivea.com.au/advice/skin
Pl suggest a good book thanks
Two I like are: Wild Colour by Jenny Dean. Or the Eco Colour book by India Flint.
Seria de gran ayuda que pudiera poner unos subtítulos en las partes más concretas.
Especialmente para los que no sabemos tanto inglés
Thank you for your feedback - yes, I will definitely do that over the next few days. :)
I will be adding more videos on eco-printing and wet-felting, so please subscribe (and click the bell) if you would like to be notified of them when they come out. :)
Gracias, estaré atenta, ya me suscribí
👌👌
Gostei da técnica mas precisa tradução em português.
Ok, você pode obter as legendas em seu idioma. Aqui estão as instruções:
Para escolher um idioma de legenda diferente:
No canto inferior direito, clique em Configurações
Clique em Legendas / CC
Selecione um idioma.
Se o idioma não estiver listado quando você clicar em Legendas / CC:
Clique em Traduzir automaticamente.
Selecione um idioma.
Eledir, espero que ajude. :)
The back of the eucalyptus leaves have more tannin and so they transfer better onto fabrics.
That's right, you do get different results from back and front of the leaves. Thanks so much for adding that information. :)
Thank you for the nice and informative video! Do you have any advice on what chemicals to use for doing this with petals rather than green leaves? How would you do it/have you tried it?
I haven't experimented a lot with petals. I would suggest strong/dark colours. Some also say freezing petals helps. Have you read India Flint's book?
@@AannshaJones Oh! No I haven't, but I will look it up. Thank you!
Fabulous ! I have a question , do you wash the shirt after taking the leaves off
Thanks! I let it dry in the shade first to help the colour impregnate. Then I wash it.
Hi, this is really great video! Is it washable in washing machine
in the end? Thank you :)
Atelie Trion Thanks! I wash mine in the washing machine with other clothes and the colours held for a long time. You may find washing in a pH neutral soap keeps the colour for longer. But my tees hold the colour for ages. ONE strong recommendation is that you do not wash the tee shirt for at least a week after you eco-print it. That way the colour has a chance to really bind to the material. I usually let it dry then iron it.
Hi,
Annsha
Thanks for making this video.I have some doubt about how long I have to soak the leaf in vinegar-water solution and the fabric or garment have to steam or boil.
Hi Sheela Jena, thank you for your feedback! I just put the leaves into the vinegar-water just before using. Then I spray the fabric/garment before I place the leaves. If you're using eucalyptus leaves you'll need to steam/boil for at least 1.5-2 hours as it takes a while before they give up their dye. Other leaves/ flowers won't need as long. I suggest you do little experiments and write the results in a book, so you can repeat (although it'll never be an exact replica) your results. Hope that helps.
Aannsha Jones I ´ve heard from an eco print dyer she soaks the leaves a full night before using them. Does the vinegar water solution need to be heated before soaking the leaves? Is if usefull to press the leaves and material togheter with a rolling spin or a glass bottle to extract the sap and inbetter the proccess. What workes the best cellulosic fibers like cotton or linen or proteinic ones like wool or silk? Many many thanks for this video👍🏻😘👍🏻
Do you boil the water with the shirt in for 2 hrs ?
If you are using eucalyptus leaves, you have to simmer it for that length of time to help release the dyes from the leaves. Other, softer plant material may not need as long. I encourage you to experiment and keep a journal of your results.
Are you use any kind of chemical in boiling water, please ans
No. ... Have you watched the video yet Meghla? ;)
Yes i watch your all video, but i can not catch it
It look like you used just native plants, could you use flowers like roses to transfer the various colors.
It was interesting to see the process.
Thank you
stuegor Yes, I have used roses. leaves worked well but I only had pink flowers and would like to rey red ones. Some plants give amazingly strong colours. Others can be disappointing. It is worth researching and also note taking (as I mentioned). Mordants, and different processes can achieve varying results. I'm glad you found it interesting.
Dear,
Gd info... Just wonder, how long it takes to soak the leaves in the water/vinegar solution..
Tq again
You can actually just dip them in.
Please ans me..what a using metarials are making nice te_shart..name of metarials..please ans..
Hi, I've put a list of materials in the description below the video. You can copy and past that into google translate. I hope that helps. 😀
Como acho tradução pro brasil
Are the colour permanent
Not as permanent as synthetic dyes. Some will last longer than others. Some fade quickly in light. If you do a google search for "list of natural dyes lightfast" you'll get lots of useful information.
Vinegar is NOT a mordant
You're correct Paul Henry, it is an assistant. Thank you for pointing out my mistake :)
Perhaps you would like to explain briefly the difference between a mordant and an assistant?
With natural dyeing
A mordant is something that helps bind a dyestuff to a fibre, some dyes don't easily attach to some fibres, but if the fibres are pre treated with a mordant , which easily stick to the fibre, then the dye stuff will stick to the mordant.
Typical mordants are alum, tannin,iron (various compounds), copper sulphate, but it's also possible to use natural plant materials as well, such as heuchera root
An assistant usually only changes the pH of the dye bath which will affect colouring, vinegar or washing soda are two of the most common assistants
Thank you Paul Henry for taking the time to write that out - and it is so clear too - for viewers. I appreciate that. :)
yes it is
@@Trielsa 😃
✌️
podría escribirme que solución es la 2ª
Maribel Longueira Hi Maribel, when you say second solution, do you mean the one I soaked the leaves in? If so that was 50% vinegar and 50% water.
The brown liquid that I dipped the leaves in was Iron (ferrous) water. That was made by soaking rusty nails in water with a little vinegar. You can make up a solution using Ferrous Sulphate dissolved in water.
I hope that helps.
hi, AAnnsha, thank you very much.
El agua donde coció la camiseta no lleva ningún mordiente?
Yes, that solution was an old one that I had made up from before - so I don't have the exact measurements. It was washing soda and alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) dissolved in water.
Muchísimas gracias, eres muy amable, las medidas más o menos las se, si tiene alúmina y bicarbonato de sodio.
😃
Daunnya tidak ditiriskan dahulu?
What is that rusty solution you use?
Merlyn Luzon I made the iron solution by soaking rusty nails in a mix of water and vinegar.
How long did you soak the nails?
Does the plant stain come off of you wash it?
It does fade with time. Some plant dyes last longer than others.
Aannsha Jones thank you so much :)
Can I give the ingredients please. Thanks
The ingredients are in the video description. :)
Why must it be an old tshirt?
It doesn't have to be, but it is already 'pre-treated' by lots of laundry washing. Sorry this is a late reply Jerry, but I've only just come across your comment.
hola