Replace rear blower/resistor 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan 3 zone electronic heat/ac

How to replace rear blower and/or resistor on a 2006 on Dodge Grand Caravan with 3 zone electronic heat/AC.
Parts I used:
- Duralast JA-1739 - Duralast Blower Motor Resistor
- VDO PM9367 - A/C Heater Blower Motor (I didn't use this but this is the part # for the rear blower).
Tools I used:
- Phillips Screwdriver
- 10mm 3/8” drive socket with extension.
- 14mm 3/8" drive socket
- 13/16in 3/8" drive socket
- T20 Torx bit
Thanks for watching. If this video saved you some time or you learned something please give it a thumbs up. Thanks!

[@MrQdabopy]

Thank you, I'm gonna give it a go

[@leshulsey9060]

Bro, good job on the video, some people will get motion sick and hate bla bla.
Thanks for showing me how much work I have ahead of me .
Thanks for your 20 mins of love , care for us fellow Multi talented people!

[@diehard261985]

Thank u sir just replaced my resistor on a 2010 dodge grand caravan it is still the same setup as yours

[@michaelmorrow7144]

Thanks for the video. In my experience, with a 05 Town and country with analog controls, the resistor is on the front side and has the blade style resistor. Your setup with the digital controls has the more complicated setup versus mine with knob analog controls. Hope this helps.

[@baircichlids5350]

Thank you for showing this because we have air in the back and not in the front of the vehicle I figured these vehicles have two blower motors much appreciated

[@tomb3911]

That's actually called a fan speed control module, and it's only for the models with the automatic temperature control (atc) its the same size, goes in the same place, does the same job, but isn't a resistor and has a different wiring harness. It is true that when this module and the resistor fail that the fan speed will normally still work on the high setting for the front and the back. You can bypass both if these parts as well by wiring around them temporarily to diagnose the fault, but us ground side controlled, so should be supplied power at all times and the switch only breaks the circuit to ground, so supplying 12v DC directly to the fan should make the fan spin, if it didn't the give the motor housing a good smack a few times right in the center where the motor is if it comes back on, most likely the resistor or control module is good, and the motor was frozen. 9 times out of 10 it's because the cabin air filter has never been changed, and the fan motor is clogged with dust and dirt. The recirculator in these vans is set to disable itself in defrost mode, and also every 10 minutes because mopar felt it would keep smells out if the system. If this annoys you as much as it annoys me, unplug the actuator motor and manually slide the door so it's closing off the path to the outside air, now no matter what the computer system does the actuator will not move and will always be in recirculate mode.

[@BuffaloEskate]

If you hear the blower going and feel heat coming from a vent by the floor in back... but have no air flowing out of any of the 4 small vents on the ceiling what do you think it could be? Idk what the heating system looks like at all or how or where the heat would come from if it would definitely come from the rear blower on the passenger side or another blower somewhere else?

[@buggzo]

I want to remove this whole thing to convert my 2006 t&c to a full-time camper. Are there any refrigerant lines or anything I should be aware of?

[@garywill6340]

I just did this yesterday, I can't believe Dodge put those torx screws in there. It was such a pain in the ass. If they just used some hex heads it would have saved so much time. My suggestion if anyone does this job. Take the time while you have it out to change all the torx to hex heads. There is no room to use a torx but on a driver. I had to use a 1/4 in wrench with the torx bit 1/16th of a turn at a time. If you replace them with the hex heads you can use a rachet and socket if anything else fails. You've been warned.

[@jamesmoyer5724]

Hi I have a 06 town and country and I'm having a problem with the rear upper vents not blowing but the lower passenger side rear works just fine. I have automatic temperature control and you can hear the rear fan blower working but no upper air coming from the upper vents. Please can anyone give me some helpful advice of what it can be and if its hard to fix or replace. Thanks.

[@jamesmoyer5724]

I have a 06 town and country van the problem that I have with it is. Mine comes with automatic climate control and the rear blower works cause it blows from the bottom and you can hear the blower running its not blowing from the upper vents at all. Can someone with this problem please help me out or give me some helpful advice.

[@jorgetrevino5757]

That’s easy job just make sure don’t pull so rude the tabs a d use an screwdriver to push the tabs and don’t have to remove all the plastics like him unless you want a huge mess if you take the #10 bolts (3) and a small Torx with a 1/4 ratchet just 2 bolts a d comes off replace it and reverse all the procedure don’t take more than 10 min max

[@briangallegos6013]

What happened for you to think it was the blower? Currently my rear air isn’t working front is fine but rear isn’t

[@rahimali9504]

Same as mine what you did to fix it

[@UnversedGnat321]

​@rahimali9504 hey! So mine wasn't working for a while when I bought the van and what I personally did to fix it was repair the vent for the rear end because mine was leaking so it would go to hot to cold but mainly heat which now it remains cold, just my front is leaking still but from the driver side and can't find it :/ hope this helps

[@gerbearunit]

How much would it cost in manual labor for all this? Without parts.

[@MrEvanvance]

Oh man my van is too old to worry about all that 😊😂 good video tho. I just dont have time and my van is too old now lol I know I'll have to get another one very soon.

[@mitchellharris7933]

I have a 2005 Chrysler Pacifica and the center vents have no air coming out does anybody know what it might be.