I noticed that when you used the plug in electrical tester you only tested the bottom of the outlet. Some outlets are split and usually controlled by say a switch. In this case the metallic tab on the side of the outlet is broken off creating in effect 2 separate outlets. You could have the bottom half off and the too half still live. I always test both plugs in the outlet just to be sure.
Is that why there is an extra screw for both the neutral and hot? For the other plug in case you split them? I noticed he didn't use these so I think that's what they're for.
Licensed in multiple states and that has been more valuable than a university degree. Please note that a Fluke multimeter is a great tool - got several at pawn shops at big savings! Nice video!
14yr cable guy here. You can find the multi screwdriver from 5-in-1 to 10-in-1, always handy. I prefer a larger dual crimp stripper, it works on any size wire without having to know and choose which size it is. I did learn something, the bent tabs and in/lbs torque for electrical, as we tighten to 20. Would love an in depth in house networking tutorial, many new housing tracts come with pre-wired CAT-5 (or better) but not terminated or terminated to phone that no one uses. If you're going to buy & install your own coax & connectors, use compression, it's just better.
I use WAGO connectors which are code-compliant, and recommend Fluke for Meters, Klein for most Elec tools and Knipex for their insulated combo lineman-strippers. Also, white PVC elec tape and perm marker or reuse the trimmings from 12-2 romex as sleeve-labels. Lastly, get a small electrician-specific tool belt-pouch for just the electrical tools. Makes it easier when working around the old house and garage to have it all on you. Oh and never use the backstab feature of the receptacle-that is more for builders in a hurry and over time, those will pop out as I have had to do many homes for this problem.
I like to cut my joints at 45 degrees so the metal threaded cone inside the wire nut has a similar shape to really work well together. That said, I've flush cut so many joints I've lost count. Mr. Eastman does a great job making this professional and easy for the DIYer
So with that plug in tester, he said if the light doesn't come on, the plug should be de-energized. SHOULD be? Maybe I'll just use the other tester and be absolutely sure.
A question and forgive the ignorance. The original cantact had two hot and two neutral wires and you attached one and one. does that make a difference? will it still function the same as before? Thank you for your videos...always learn something from them.
It will work just the same. The 2 contacts were connected together when he created the pigtail. However this could be different if the top or bottom outlet is controlled by a switch.
? The original wiring had each white and black wires going yo a separate terminal you wired it to a single terminal, was that the correct thing to do in this case?
Yes its fine because the tab connecting both outlets was intact, for him to show how to lengthen its proper to combine three wires only by wire nut and in the box.
Test both sockets with the plug in tester. They could be wired separately. Once open, use the non-contact tester too. You own them, use them. Rare to find a live wire if the breaker is off, but you never know what the previous guys did.
Can someone explain why they never use insulated tools especially screwdrivers in these electrical videos, isn't it that common in us? When I was electrician I always used 1000v rated screwdrivers.
I noticed when he took it out of the wall he had two wires connected to each of the two screws but when he put them back in it was only one wire on one screw. Is this normal?
It might have to do with how hard that one is to find. It appears to be sold out everywhere. I believe that one he's using is a Husky H4DTRQ, though I'm not positive.
People are gonna crucify my for saying this, but I have an easy solution. Brfore you throw away another unused/broken appliance, go ahead and cut the cord off. Next, strip and twist all the wires together then plug the cord in. Go to your panel and see which breaker has tripped. Disclaimer: if your panel was made by federal Pacific there's a good chance your house will burn down and trigger a nuclear holocaust.
That is extremely unusual. Did you confirm that there isn't a 'sub-panel' somewhere? Additionally, if you shut off the main breakers (100A or larger breakers, usually at the top of the panel) there shouldn't be any power to the outlet. If there is then you need to call a professional to sort this out.
If you turn off all power and the outlet is still hit then the electricity is going off property. I have an A/C unit on the other side of the house with its own box. The electricity comes from the main fuse box. Some could attach an outlet from this A/C. Maybe you have something similar.
The push on connectors are very reliable and don’t fail in my experience. They take up less space and they can be removed if needed. Same deal as plumbers initially resisting solderless type pipe connections . Now they all use them.
In the late 1970s and early 1980s, This Old House was shunned by tradesman for "giving away secrets" and they complained they'd be out of a job. As it turned out, This Old House was one of the pioneers in the birth of the the home-improvement craze, thereby increasing tradesman's work exponentially.
I think you should have talked about the two wires with both white and black. Some people won't know if it goes on to another switch. I would have liked for you to show a replacement using all four wires instead of the two. Thanks for the video.
He connected them together with the wire nut and pigtail and pushed them into the back of the box, then he only had to connect the pigtail to the receptacle.
@@facklere To expand on this, the reason they could be tied together is because they were tied together on the outlet originally. There is a little metal tab that goes between the two screw terminals (that can be removed if needed) that let the outlet chain without the wirenuts.
@@MattLitkeRacing Crazy… I am floored because I didn’t know there were places in the U.S. where Romex isn’t allowed. Is it a local or state rule? What is the issue with Romex? I’m no electrical expert, but I can’t believe conduit is that much safer. 🤷🏻♂️
How do you wire up conduit to a receptacle ? what’s inside or outside the wall shouldn’t matter because inside that box is always going need the wires to make the connections to the receptacle, switch , fixtures…..
@@Michael-Makes-Stuff : the fk it ain't aloud ! Residential houses and apartments across the country are Romexed! The NEC dictates that it can't be used in commercial and industrial buildings !
All Stores 900,000 Please Lower the price of all Brands of Military Equipment and Local for All Brands of Electric Motors Products and Production Cost Now 900,000 That's Too Much $$ 900,000 Now The Whole World 900,000 Now 🙏 🤲 🕍 🕌 ⛪ 🛕
I noticed that when you used the plug in electrical tester you only tested the bottom of the outlet.
Some outlets are split and usually controlled by say a switch. In this case the metallic tab on the side of the outlet is broken off creating in effect 2 separate outlets.
You could have the bottom half off and the too half still live. I always test both plugs in the outlet just to be sure.
I was going to say the same!
Yep pretty sure I got jolted for this very reason
Is that why there is an extra screw for both the neutral and hot? For the other plug in case you split them? I noticed he didn't use these so I think that's what they're for.
Licensed in multiple states and that has been more valuable than a university degree. Please note that a Fluke multimeter is a great tool - got several at pawn shops at big savings! Nice video!
Heath is a clear master. Great attention to detail.
14yr cable guy here. You can find the multi screwdriver from 5-in-1 to 10-in-1, always handy. I prefer a larger dual crimp stripper, it works on any size wire without having to know and choose which size it is. I did learn something, the bent tabs and in/lbs torque for electrical, as we tighten to 20. Would love an in depth in house networking tutorial, many new housing tracts come with pre-wired CAT-5 (or better) but not terminated or terminated to phone that no one uses.
If you're going to buy & install your own coax & connectors, use compression, it's just better.
I use WAGO connectors which are code-compliant, and recommend Fluke for Meters, Klein for most Elec tools and Knipex for their insulated combo lineman-strippers. Also, white PVC elec tape and perm marker or reuse the trimmings from 12-2 romex as sleeve-labels. Lastly, get a small electrician-specific tool belt-pouch for just the electrical tools. Makes it easier when working around the old house and garage to have it all on you. Oh and never use the backstab feature of the receptacle-that is more for builders in a hurry and over time, those will pop out as I have had to do many homes for this problem.
I like to cut my joints at 45 degrees so the metal threaded cone inside the wire nut has a similar shape to really work well together. That said, I've flush cut so many joints I've lost count. Mr. Eastman does a great job making this professional and easy for the DIYer
Another DYI tool is a breaker finder. Plug into a live socket and trace back to the electrical box
So with that plug in tester, he said if the light doesn't come on, the plug should be de-energized. SHOULD be? Maybe I'll just use the other tester and be absolutely sure.
I got used to using back wired outlets. So much easier to connect wires. Cost a little more but worth it. Saves time and aggravation.
A question and forgive the ignorance. The original cantact had two hot and two neutral wires and you attached one and one. does that make a difference? will it still function the same as before? Thank you for your videos...always learn something from them.
It will work just the same. The 2 contacts were connected together when he created the pigtail. However this could be different if the top or bottom outlet is controlled by a switch.
@@Loudog212 Thank you....now it makes sense....Keep up the videos...super informative.
? The original wiring had each white and black wires going yo a separate terminal you wired it to a single terminal, was that the correct thing to do in this case?
Yes its fine because the tab connecting both outlets was intact, for him to show how to lengthen its proper to combine three wires only by wire nut and in the box.
Test both sockets with the plug in tester. They could be wired separately. Once open, use the non-contact tester too. You own them, use them. Rare to find a live wire if the breaker is off, but you never know what the previous guys did.
what brand is your torque driver ?
Can someone explain why they never use insulated tools especially screwdrivers in these electrical videos, isn't it that common in us? When I was electrician I always used 1000v rated screwdrivers.
No Wagos?
Those wires were short? I wish the wires in my place were that short.
I have never used a torx skrewdriver
No "Wiggy" testers?
I really like the outlets that allow you to back wire under the side terminal plates. No more hooks!
I noticed when he took it out of the wall he had two wires connected to each of the two screws but when he put them back in it was only one wire on one screw. Is this normal?
Where and how to get job with all these tools?
you don't need to torque outlets. Just firmly tighten down.
Sweet veto bag
Your link isn’t for a torque screwdriver but a ratchet.
It might have to do with how hard that one is to find. It appears to be sold out everywhere. I believe that one he's using is a Husky H4DTRQ, though I'm not positive.
Nice 👍
A wago lever nut would have saved so much room, and no need to twist wires together.
Question: what if i can't find the breaker for the outlet i need to change? I've turned off all breakers and none turnoff the outlet.
That doesnt make sense to me. Only explanation would be its wired in before the box, or youre stealing someones electricity lol
Hire a professional
People are gonna crucify my for saying this, but I have an easy solution. Brfore you throw away another unused/broken appliance, go ahead and cut the cord off. Next, strip and twist all the wires together then plug the cord in. Go to your panel and see which breaker has tripped. Disclaimer: if your panel was made by federal Pacific there's a good chance your house will burn down and trigger a nuclear holocaust.
That is extremely unusual. Did you confirm that there isn't a 'sub-panel' somewhere? Additionally, if you shut off the main breakers (100A or larger breakers, usually at the top of the panel) there shouldn't be any power to the outlet. If there is then you need to call a professional to sort this out.
If you turn off all power and the outlet is still hit then the electricity is going off property. I have an A/C unit on the other side of the house with its own box. The electricity comes from the main fuse box. Some could attach an outlet from this A/C. Maybe you have something similar.
Well done!
Gotta get em allll
Thought you were going to show us lever nuts to extend the outlet wires. Real old old old school to twist then together…..
You had to be that one. Always has to find fault with something.
Lever nuts are easier, but you rely on a spring for a tight connection. Overtime they eventually fail compared to wire nuts
@@johnlebzelter4208 He didn't say the wire nut was wrong, just brought attention to an more modern alternative. Either will work just fine.
@@bnollbnoll2205 No they don’t.
The push on connectors are very reliable and don’t fail in my experience. They take up less space and they can be removed if needed. Same deal as plumbers initially resisting solderless type pipe connections . Now they all use them.
Prove, test, prove!
No light on the tester, is the power off or the tester has failed. Test for power, test for dead, test for power, always test the tester.
In the late 1970s and early 1980s, This Old House was shunned by tradesman for "giving away secrets" and they complained they'd be out of a job. As it turned out, This Old House was one of the pioneers in the birth of the the home-improvement craze, thereby increasing tradesman's work exponentially.
YOU BETTER FIX THAT TORQUE SCREWDRIVER SITE
I think you should have talked about the two wires with both white and black. Some people won't know if it goes on to another switch. I would have liked for you to show a replacement using all four wires instead of the two. Thanks for the video.
There were 2 white wires on the plug originally. Why not hook both back up?
He connected them together with the wire nut and pigtail and pushed them into the back of the box, then he only had to connect the pigtail to the receptacle.
@@facklere To expand on this, the reason they could be tied together is because they were tied together on the outlet originally. There is a little metal tab that goes between the two screw terminals (that can be removed if needed) that let the outlet chain without the wirenuts.
Neutral and Hotwire integrity, you only need one white, black and green
connected to a receptacle!
I thought you had plenty of wire length to work with before you added the extras 😂
Yeah, exactly. It's getting tucked in anyway
In my area romex isn’t allowed. Please make content for places where conduit is required and we can’t use romex
No Romex? Where do you live? I’m honestly curious.
@@Michael-Makes-Stuff Cook County, Il
@@MattLitkeRacing Crazy… I am floored because I didn’t know there were places in the U.S. where Romex isn’t allowed. Is it a local or state rule? What is the issue with Romex? I’m no electrical expert, but I can’t believe conduit is that much safer. 🤷🏻♂️
How do you wire up conduit to a receptacle ? what’s inside or outside the wall shouldn’t matter because inside that box is always going need the wires to make the connections to the receptacle, switch , fixtures…..
@@Michael-Makes-Stuff : the fk it ain't aloud ! Residential houses and apartments across the country are Romexed! The NEC dictates that it can't be used in commercial and industrial buildings !
not one insulated screwdriver
I think they used the wrong intro for a tool lab video.
"Basic electrical tools" .. "Torque screwdriver.."
No DIYer in the universe is going to have a torque screwdriver. It is not necessary and expensive.
if you have to watch this to see what tools you need, you probably should not work on your electricity
All Stores 900,000 Please Lower the price of all Brands of Military Equipment and Local for All Brands of Electric Motors Products and Production Cost Now 900,000 That's Too Much $$ 900,000 Now The Whole World 900,000 Now 🙏 🤲 🕍 🕌 ⛪ 🛕