My foreman has been in the trade for almost 40 years. She showed me the benefits of using the wooden folding rule for most applications instead of a tape. You can use it to find your measurements for rolling offsets, you can use it as a bevel gauge for finding tricky bend angles, you have an easier time getting measurements on a stick of conduit. It's a game changer.
Agreed 6' folding rule, inside read ... but admittedly, a quality 25' tape is a must too. Both are needed, they're different tools. The folding rule isn't the right choice in many situations, however there's layout situations that a wood rule is perfect for. Besides ... it's cool. About the only retro cool tool a JW uses is the classic folding rule.
@@miliniun2056 Fiberglass, nice ... I've never used one. Bought my first 6' wood rule as an apprentice 40yrs ago, spring of '83. White Lufkin ... at some point I bought the thicker Klein, w/the brass slider extension. If I had to choose, I like the thinner Lufkin better.
Most of the time I use my linesman pliers to pound staples. The electrician hammer is also what they’re known as and you can shed some weight in your bags.
As someone that uses hammers daily, your thoughts on hammers are entertaining. We consider any hammer with a fiberglass handle or steel shank to be cheap and worthless. Give me a hammer with a properly hung and oriented wooden handle any day. At least if I'm gonna be using it for more than a couple hours a day. Maybe for an electrician you can get away with using them, but for a carpenter or blacksmith, you need a wooden handle.
Having been a carpenter for 26 years, I've seen and used a couple of different hammers. The wooden handled hammers are nice because of the impact absorption. But if you miss, the handle takes the brunt of the hit. Estwing steel handles have never broken from any abuse I've given them but have no resilience to absorb shock. Best is fiberglass-handled (resilient) for framing and my favorite 16oz finishing hammer is a Stanley with straight claw (of course) and steel-sheathed wooden handle. BTW, some Stillettos are Titanium not Aluminum handled.
Ya, most electricians don't know what a finish hammer is! I don't see myself ever wanting to use a 28 ounce stiletto on a cabinet or a nice piece of trim.
I became a framer over 40 years ago and a B1 for 30 years. I agree A wooden handle is the only way to go. No framer would use an Estwing because the ringing in your fingers would be unbearable at the end of the day. Stilettos are my favorite because you get the force of a 25oz at half the weight. I have bought a few full-tang Titanium hammers and I still prefer wood handles. I think we are the old guys that were pressured by are you a real carpenter? 1) set the nail 2) slam it home 3) OK one more hit to sink it 4) you suck. If you pound a few hundred nails every day you can feel the difference. P.S. If you remember Hart 25oz framing hammers "your as me".
Overall good video. I realize the I'm not really the target audience (in residential construction) but I really have to wonder what his mom was like if a ball-peen hammer was in her kitchen drawer! My mom had a claw hammer like the one he suggested. I work in industrial factory settings so my 24oz wood handled ball-peen is my best buddy. I use it every day, and I would laugh right back at anyone who called it a "mom-hammer". Next most used is my 48oz dead-blow which i use all the time for taking motor shafts and couplings apart. I have a claw hammer too, but in my environment it just collects dust in the bottom of my bottom drawer under all the other hammers. Wood handles are definitely better than steel handles for high impact. I'm just curious how people are breaking them so much. Like I say I use my wood-handled ball-peen every single day on heavy machinery (including for its design purpose of shaping metal) and it's 25 years old, never replaced the handle. Handy for reshaping metal junction boxes after the forklifts run into them too.
8:45 It turns more for each time you turn. Pro tip: There is no change to a screwdriver's handle that exists that makes it turn more per turn. A quarter turn is still a quarter turn. Larger diameter does give you more torque on the screw and better precision.
I saw that, I like the smallest tool that can do the job, Greenlee or Klein, sure but I keep a really small screwdriver in my pouch that can spin a long thread screw much faster
Bigger diameter handle will turn that screw more in a single revolution ,where as the smaller handle may have to be turned half a turn more to spin screw to the same point. Pretty similar to gear ratio. Is it something I'd feel worth arguing about ,absolutely not just seemed you kinda missed what I feel he was referencing. Possibly bigger sprocket on gear or sheave and smaller on axle or tire situation brings it to light. I usually use the screwdriver on my Milwaukee fastback ,I definitely prefer a better 6n1 or 11n1 but I have those craftsman drivers there not junk as others I've had 😮. I don't know as the more revolution of screw with less of handle is a selling point but to some all day handsrewers it may be 😂
The other nice thing about magnet tape measures is you can pick up dropped nuts and coupling screws without maneuvering down your ladder or unclipping your harness in a lift... And you can pick up pipe pieces knockouts without bending.
I’m a toolahilic and only the ones I find best stay in my bag. It’s gotten to the point where my boss will tell the new kid “if you want to know what tools to buy look in Sean’s bag” 😂😂
I like having those multi use tools. I think it's nice having to take only a few multiuse tools down in the crawl space instead of trying to drag your whole tool bag or crawling in and out just to do a different task. There's always some random junction box you need to access that sometimes has flathead on one side and drywall screw on the other. 11in1 should be your first purchase as an apprentice
My 1960 era Poepeel Jar Opener, has a screw driver, and is indestructable, ...paint can opener, Nut cracker. I got it for a buck at a garage sale in the 80s. MADE IN USA
The klein tools 11 in 1 that says pat pend. Is my favorite multi tool because it has 2 Robinsons bits a t25 2 flat heads 2 Phillips a 1/4 inch socket a 5/16 socket a 3/8 socket and the handle on its own is a half inch socket I can literally carry that and my impact and I have everything I need minus some strippers I fucken love it but I banged on it a couple times and now the rubber handle is coming loose 😅 wish I never banged on it 😢 but it's still amazing
Peen hammer is excellent for making gaskets from bulk gasketing material. As an Electrical and Instrumentation technician, I've used a peen far more than I've used a claw. However, your points absolutely stand for construction. Claw angle is frustratingly important. Try pulling a nail in corner against a wall using that aggressive claw angle! Thanks for the tips concerning tapes, levels, and confirmation about magnetic tips. My company has no idea how much time I've exhausted using bits of electrical tape to hold a screw where I can't use both hands, dropped and had to fetch, or puckered as a fastener inadvertently fell into something potentially hot. Check out holding screw drivers! I use those routinely, but the flat-blade holding screw drivers can't hold Phillips/ flat combination heads well, at all. (Those are not meant for loosening or tightening; just starting or removing after the screw is loose -- but fantastically helpful!)
As an electrician: I used a ball hammer for 30 years, and never had a usage for a claw hammer, but then we did not have wood in the factory ether, just steel. So, nails get replaced with bolts. Hammers are used to hit brass punches so we don't mess up the steel, when needed.
I'd agree as well. I carried a ball-pein hammer for an entire career. I believe I went through two, I retired with the second one ... wrapped in thick, protective rubber tape up at the striking end (for those inevitable misses during demo).
My ball-peen is mostly all i use for resi. Light weight cuz you don't need a lot of force to drive staples and easy to get in tight between studs. I's never use those he suggested.. I ain't framing up walls
I work on boats, mobile marine servic: electrical, systems, & propulsion... Tapes I carry 2 Stanley’s the 16’ and the one in this video. Usually the 16 does it all. I carry 3 ball peens including one that size, and 2 larger ones, I don’t need a claw for anything, but I do have tight spaces and varying levels of tapping punches etc. “don’t hit it with a tiny hammer, you’ll only piss it off”. Cheap screwdrivers rock, maybe not that cheap but I don’t cry when I drop a craftsman into the water from the top of a sailboat mast. Or one gets knocked if the deck into the drink. I do have insulated Kleins as well. But I love a variety of cheap screwdrivers. I’ve got a pair of linesman in each tool bag, they mostly collect dust. I love my small loppers, for doing big battery hookups I do use a ratcheting set. Nothing on a boat is level, get a square and a good eye. Somewhere I do have a solid metal level someplace in the shop. Makita, and magnets are useless if you only work with stainless fasteners. Overall good video, some solid things I agree with!
NOTICE: Dustin is not a tool snob. If you have not been following him for long you will not know that he is not shaming those who may not be able to instantaneously afford good tools. But the fact of the matter is, your tools are your career, and crappy tools can get you hurt. Not to mention, the amount of money you will spend replacing lower tier tools will easily and quickly add up to the value of good tools. Everyone understands that not all have the ability to jump into the trade and have the very best but you should strive to save, work and slowly build up a solid foundation of quality tools as you advance in your career
Also these are not that expensive of tools. The hammer is $40 and the Milwaukee torpedo level is $30ish. Talk to mechanics who have to buy 10s of thousands of dollars on good tools from Matco, snap on, etc, and carry them in a 5k dollar tool chest. And most mechanics are not getting rich. I got that speech from my dad when I was a paramedic about skimping on a stethoscope, the only tool I actually had to buy
my friend was recommended some old "45-year-experienced" "licensed electrician" who is slow, shaky, and has Bauer tools and a brandless LED light. I wonder how someone can work in the most overpaid trade for 45 years and not have good tools at all.
@jlewis1091 I started with Klein tools from the Gate personally because I knew that had a good reputation. Got just basics and each week I'd buy a new tool or kit. Now I'm sitting on about $9k of tools after about 5 years in the business. Had to replace only tools I've lost so far. Nothing broke other than my Milwaukee Hammerdrill I dropped from 60' lol
I've had the same Estwing hammer for 44 years. I have used it to demolish buildings, built a variety of things, and just beat the heck out of it. Never once had to worry about it breaking.
I actually LOVE that pair of Klein multi-tool pliers that you showed. Yes, you are not gonna be cutting 8awg or larger with it, and you definitely won't be cutting MC with it. But working with 12 or 14awg Romex, I absolutely love that thing. 10awg wire is actually too much for it IMO. They should make a second version, for 10awg and larger wire, and with larger screw cutters on it. That's one thing I don't like about it, is that it can only cut #4 and #6 screws.
Agreed dude, Klein Hybrids were my absolute favorite pliers because they're lighter weight than regular linemans but still get the job done on 14-10 awg (10 is a struggle) used them so much I wore them out and had to upgrade to the knipex version for that quality
To be fair, your helper who is just starting out, probably isn't cashed up, so they're better off buying 10 different $20 tools, than one $200 tool. Probably for the same reason that the apprentice isn't rolling up to the job in a brand new car/van unlike the journeyman who has earned enough to afford one.
@@davidmurn772 yeah on top of that, the apprentice also needs to worry about showing up with safety boots and work appropriate clothes.... big expense for someone just starting out.. at least if they show up with some kind of tools, they're eager to work and learn.. it's up to you to show them the difference in garbage tools vs good tools..
Right tool for the right job BUT you have to know (and you will learn over time) what tools to spend money on and what tools NOT too. For example. Linesman, or any pliers, spend the money but bastard or rat tail files, that’s harbor freight for me all the way. Anything that I am going to wear out quickly I will NOT spend money on.
Great channel, “Loppers” come in great when roughing in MC/BX jobs. Doing the job for over 30years now, and the extra leverage and ease that they cut the armor make life easier instead of pulling out the rotor split IMHOP
I felt the same way about the hybrid linesman’s at first but they have saved me a few time really helpful for when making up a box. But would be nice have a tad bit more leverage
Great video, brother. I'm a former framer so I fully understand the right tool for the task. I don't typically need a torpedo level but I will be keeping the Klein in mind. Just a small correction....yes framers are prima donnas - Stiletto or Martinez are the best hammers out there. (They are Titanium....not Aluminum)
Not a prima donna, and pretty much nobody needs a $250 hammer. Save the Titanium for the hip you might need after hauling lumber around for decades... ;)
Shortly after I started in this trade my brother gave me one of those automatic wire strippers (fairly expensive Snap-On one), I literally used it for about 15 seconds before I said nope and returned to the normal manual wire strippers.
This carpenter apprentice brought a beat-up, old Mom's hammer his first day on the job and was ridiculed mercilessly. Before he left at the end of the day, the journeyman told him, "Don't ever show up with that hammer again." So the following day, he came to work with a brand-new Mom's hammer.
🤦🏼♂️ Carpentry has a broad spectrum from framing to setting trim. You don't really what you signed up for till you've been with that crew for a little while. First job was a deck so I bought a 24oz ax handle,but 90% work we do is finish work, so I eventually downsized to 19oz fiberglass Vaughan.
ELECTRICIANS: Been an electrician for 21 years and an electrical contractor for 12. ANY OTHER TRADES: I paused the video at the beginning to guess what Dustin would explain about why he wouldn't use each one and what he would use instead. AS AN ELECRICAL CONTRACTOR: I own or have owned every tool he recommended.
The lighted Klein level is nice, but it doesn’t have a 30° level on it, which is not ideal for conduit bending. I carry the 4 level torpedo (small one with a built in no dog) in my tool pouch and the big three level lighted one in my packout hand tote- it’s nice for bending 90s and checking kicks, etc..
@Penguin545 I get what you mean but we don't bend much pipe in my company. We do residential custom homes. The light up one works perfect for my general construction needs.
@@shponjoel absolutely if you’re not bending conduit, then I totally agree, you won’t have much use for a 30° angle if you’re just checking for level and plumb most of the time.
the Knipex muti pliers are great, the strippers are awesome and the rounded cutting teeth work perfect for BX or single conductor. can easily splice #14 or #12 awg. only wish the jaws were a little wider to splice #10 but its my favorite tool in the bag.
I'm somewhat surprised you didn't mention Klein tape measure. After years of trying Craftsman, Stanley, DeWalt, Milwaukee (and even Kobalt...) I found the Klein. Has all the best features I like, including the magnetic rip, and there really isn't anything I don't like. If I *had* to pick something I don't like, the markings are a bit thick, so if you need super precise, you can't. You can, but you have to consistently mark the left or right edge of the markings or pay close attention. But if my biggest complaint is that I'm going to be 1/64" off and that's not precise enough, I probably need to be using a precise rule instead.
Honestly the best tape measure that I've ever bought was 8 dollars. Better than all those brands, except I haven't tried the klein one. But spec ops on amazon has a great tape measure. Thicker blade than any of the brands mentioned, compact, durable, double sided. Just flawless.
Personally I really like the klein multi plier... don't need to switch between a pair of linesman and strippers stream lining most tasks. Never had issue cutting #6 but cutting armored cable thats where a quick swap to your side cutters is easy. The less you have to juggle through tools the better. Only thing missing was a solid fishtape puller but I changed that with a Dremel. Been using them everyday since 2017 and recommend when the opportunity knocks 👌
I have Milwaukee and Dewalt drills, both are 2 speed. I like the DeWalt much better, Milwaukee is sooooo much slower. They both have similar torque. I first had the Milwaukee for years and thought it was awesome until I bought a Dewalt.
1/0 cutters are not a stupid tool, cut luminaire cable all day w ure linesman’s and ure hands will be ready to fall off, not carrying ratchet cutters around to cut 12/2 mc w 0-10 wire inside of cable while I wire across a building
I agree with some of your tool stuff, but I love my multi pliers. I use the knipex 13 72 8 as my strippers, then have a dedicated pair of Klein ironworkers style spring linemans.
From personal experience I prefer both the Milwaukee and Klein tapes (I hate how small FatMax feels in the hand). I've warranties both brands twice within the last year of work, with one Milwaukee being my fault for letting it melt next to a space heater. I prefer the Klein for feel, but both are great as long as you stick with the Milwaukee Stud imo. Maybe I don't treat my tapes right, but no brand seems to stand up to much use before being warrantied in my experitence.
My favorite rule is a folding carpenters stick rule. My favorite tape is an old Stanley 12 foot slide lock tape. I love it because the case is exactly two inches. Makes inside measurements with minimal brain strain. You shouldn't strike a hardened tool with a hardened hammer. Shrapnel may happen. You should have a hammer available made for striking chisels and punches. There is a lot of handled junk on the market masquerading as hammers. I think you have never used a good quality wood handled carpenters hammer. A good one is easy on your arm. If you have to overdrive a hammer, you are using too light a hammer for the job.
Agreed ... 6' (inside read) folding rule. There's scenarios whereby the folding rule is perfect. I think you need both really, tape and a rule. Wood claw hammers; forty years ago as an apprentice, it was recommended to get this Vaughan, oak handled. It was sweet. As it turned out I rarely used it. Actually a large ball pein hammer was clearly more aligned with what I needed in most cases.
So who makes a >good< set of magnetic drill driver tips? I've had several that are too shallow or the magnets are too weak. Also, it's nice to have a mediocre set of tips you don't mind destroying if you're trying to remove rusted or seized screws. No point in destroying the gooder, more expensive set.
0.5 is way more hilarious, he sounds like most of us do at night after a long hard work day: sloppy drunk talking tools to our only friends who are mainly other electricians.
I still have my 1970s Klein (steel) 20 oz straight claw hammer. My favorite. I use it all the time. I made the foolish mistake of pounding on one of my Klein multi bit screwdrivers and now it’s almost impossible to change bits. 🥴 The simple 9” Klein lineman’s pliers which I used in my lineman days is still my favorite. No other has proven any better for me. Guess I’m set in my ways after all these years. Excellent video! Keep them coming!
With all due respect. Your forgetting where you came from! TODAY, you have success, in your career, and this channel. When you first start out and AS YOU GROW, you buy the tools that: A. I can afford B. Will give me the most versatility to complete the work I do everyday. I have seen all of the tools you love & hate, I purchased WHAT I COULD AFFORD and keep food on the table for my family and get me to the next step in my career. Just saying🤗
I agree. Struggling at first without all the accoutrement makes you a stronger worker snd human being. When you get accomplished you can afford better stuff
Agreed. A motivated person can do a lot with a little. It's all so nice to have the right tools. I'm using better tools now because I've struggled thru the broke years. Kudos
Not being an electrician that would have been my guess. A heavy conductive metal hammer, I would have to have been the last choice for an electrician. 💁🏼♂️
I’ve found I like those cheap molded plastic levels for finish work better. In my experience even just the aluminum edge on plastic levels can scratch or leave marks so I just hand out the less than $3 ones to the new kids. Not like you need a magnet on plastic plates anyway and I can typically get 6 or 7 months out of it so price doesn’t concern me.
thats a fair point, but those plastic levels tend to warp real quick. One dude at a previous jobsite had one of those plastic levels and ended up having to go back and fixing hundreds of faceplates cause his tool wasn't accurate
This video is absolutely top notch. This has to be one of the best advise for an electrician. After a year, I’ve literally changed all my tools to the exact tools your showing is the best, and they really are!!!
I love Klein Tools, but I hope you have a shop with reliable warranty turn in. I've warrantied 2 tapes, a level, screwdriver, and jab-saw within this year. It's great when it works, but some of their stuff seems to break too fast in commercial construction.
Great video! I am in almost complete agreement. (especially on the tame measurers) I have to disagree about the wooden hammer though. Well, not entirely. Wooden hammers are better for shock absorption. The reason metal handled hammers advertise special shot absorption features is because they have to because metal handles are notoriously bad on the joints. When I started in construction I bought an estwing but after driving that all day every day I quickly switched to a wooden hammer like the Journeymen around me. Plus, with metal hammers, much of the weight of the hammer is in the handle. So a 16oz metal hammer will have a lighter head than a 16 oz wooden hammer, because in a wooden hammer most of that 16oz is the actual head and not the handle. With a striking instrument you want the weight in the head so gravity can help you do the work. This saves the number of necessary blows and in doing so saves your joints. So if you are driving a lot with your hammer, its a long handle wood hammer all day. I only grab my estwing when I am going to be doing a lot of demolition or something. That said, I can see why a different hammer might fit the work of an electrician differently than a framer. It's interesting to hear how and electrician feels about this!
The first hammer I ever bought for myself, when I was 15 ( 1970 ), was one of those 16 oz. wooden handle claw hammers. I kept it for more than 30 years as a commercial carpenter, before we had air powered tools. I could drive a 10 d with two strokes and 16 d with 3 strokes. I did move up to an Estwing 22 oz. when someone stole my original.
For us electricians that do more than residential work, a ball peen hammer is very useful in the rebuild of motors for example amongst other tasks you wouldn't know about nailing plastic boxes, more of a carpenter's job than a real electrician😁
Tried a bunch of those tools. Komelon makes fine tapes, I just switched to Fatmax which are reliable. The more features Komelon pushes out every year, the more likely SBD/Fatmax is pushed to innovate with their Irwin line (now they have double sided tape). Agreed on the linesman. Keep it 9 inches or longer, the rivet close to the cutting edge, and leave it at that. Allow the tool to do the job. Tried shorter handles, tried different multi tools, linesman. They're used to cut items which we can't cut with other items. Klein is hard to beat. I'm one of the few people to regularly use those cheap plastic levels. They're affordable, disposable, and I can drop at a height without worry. The weak magnets are to prevent it from picking up metal shavings (so I don't have to blue tape), and I'll never forget leaving it on conduit. Everyone has the same orange 6.25 inch klein torpedo level, I have the longer 8 one, and one of the lightweight plastic ones. All my bit extensions are bit locking. Costs a bit more, but I love how well it holds.
Lol, Mom's hammer for me was a 20oz Estwing. For the Klein multi pliers, I know you don't like them, but for someone like me that doesn't need the high leverage in my normal work it ends up being perfect. I do keep some real linesman's in my bag on the rare times I actually need a hammer or to cut something big.
I have to say I love my wire loppers. They are a staple of my tool belt. But, not for wire. I run MC everywhere. They are great for cutting the cable to length. I cut 12/2 all the way up to 10/3 like butter. I like it so I can save the cutting edge on my linemens. This is a great example of using a tool for what it can do and not for what it is designed for.
I use a ball hammer for KO boxes, it's perfect for 3/4" KOs and I don't need to use my Kleins as a hammer. I work commercial, so sometimes when I was in prefab I'd have 500 or more 4x KO boxes; my cheap Harbor Freight ball hammer made it a little easier.
Last thoughts...Milwaukees insulated screwdrivers are solid stuff, but didn't wow me enough to switch from Klein...last couple years there's a buzz that Klein's tips (especially the Philips) are soft and break down faster...strangely enough I actually HAVE noticed this a little, might be some truth to it, then again I'm hard on hand tools... Also if you guys ever get the chance take Channellock dikes and linesmans for a spin...cut through stuff like a knife through butter, durable as hell, great balance...
Rounded my brand new Klein 1000v Robinson first time I gutted a panel, went straight back to the old ass 20 year old one my journeyman gave me and haven’t even considered a new one since. Things just ain’t made like they used to be
Like many people I feel like I got into the trades with cheap tools and by way of being taught and using other peoples tools I found out why it's important to get nice stuff.
20 year electrician here. I have carried a ball peen and an auto body dolly since around year 5. Old foreman showed me how to tap out dings on deleted load center covers. Comes in handy at least once or twice a year. Heat the paint and metal with your propane torch or gun, and tap out the dings. 3-4 hours beats a 6 week lead time every time.
Yes I would not use a ball pean hammer in you trade, but to answer your question, moms hammer are used in the automotive trade. Next time you are getting your truck serviced ask to take a look at the tradesman tool box that keeps your truck on the road. Great content, keep it.
Great stuff as always...I've rolled with Klein for 25 years, tried a bunch of others but nothing feels like a Klein grip...actually got a set of DeWalt's tough series (S2 shafts) and they're actually pretty sweet, nice grips, tips rock solid, engage screws flawlessly plus magnetic...always used Estwing hammers but some of DeWalt's hammers have made there way onto my truck now too...
Hammers with wooden handles may not be the best choice for an electrician, but experienced carpenters who swing them all day understand that the wood absorbs vibrations and reduces fatigue. A good hickory handle can take some abuse and is easily replaceable. The steel Estwing hammers are legendary, but I think if you're breaking wooden hammer handles, you're using it wrong.
I agree with pretty all of your recommendations. Buy a Stanley FatMax, Milwaukee Wide Blade or even a Stanley PowerLock tape measure. Estwing makes the best hammers for the money. Only a few bucks more for an Estwing. Shame on Home Depot for not carrying these anymore. I pretty much only buy Klein pliers. But, like you, the multi-pliers aggravate me and never work as good as the OG single function stuff. American made Klein screwdrivers are amazing, but I have had the grips come loose on some of their multi-screwdrivers,. I wish Klein would make a basic 6-In-1. I have been wanting to buy the Klein level. My only gripe is that it's not made in America. Not a big fan of Milwaukee hand tools with the exception of their utility knives, which are the best in the game. A video on crap meters would be good for a lot of people. I would say never buy a meter that costs less than a hundred bucks. Most likely, it will be junk if you do. Long time viewer, great content, as usual.
And I will add, I had a boss chew me out for bringing a set of non magnetic chucks on a job early on. He told to throw those damn things in the garbage. He was right. Malco makes the best chucks.
@@lastking2925 Kobalt started out as a rebrand of Williams, and after a few years contracted out to Danaher. If you can afford Knipex, go for it (I can and do.) The Klein fanboys can STFU. ;^)
You don’t need a tape measure any longer than a stick of conduit. I always carry a Stanley 8-ft, 1/4-inch wide tape, in my watch pocket. It is very handy when working in cabinets and boxes. RE, the ball peen hammer, it is very handy for making custom gaskets. You lay gasket paper on one of your parts and then take the ball end and peen the location of a fastener, it will then tear out where the fastner goes. Insert the fastener, and do the next fastener, and install it. After you do all the fasteners and have them in place to hold the paper in place start on the cutouts. RE the “linesman” pliers you don’t like. They are great for building panels. No they are not worth their weight if your just pulling wire, they aren’t very good. Ratcheting cutters: I was repairing lightning protection systems on some lookouts, and the conductors are a woven 64strand single ought. The only thing which cuts the stuff is the ratcheting cutters. And, they won’t if they are the least bit dull.
Playschool Tools 🤣 That reminded me of the first time I went to work with a bunch of old guys at a shop where we build scenography for theater and I brought a really cheap tape measure and one of the guys said, "Hey man don't use that Mickey Mouse tape measure around here please, use mine instead." Well that followed me for a couple of years, "Hey Carlos did you bring your Mickey Mouse set today?"
The Komelon self locking 25' tapes are actually great, and reliable, its just 'getting use to' them, as its the opposite of manual lock, and I own enough tools for 6 guys. Unless I'm doing a stud building, I leave my Estwing hammers in the truck and use my great $4 Harbor freight hammer. I can leave the cheap hammer on the cart overnight, I wear a small clip on bag with about 10 tools max, I put the level and sliplock in my back pocket and roll a cart along with the rest, as the best tools are the smallest that do the job. Ive been in the trades and construction for 45 years, 20 as an electrician.
The last tool you pulled up, the 1/0's, which is what they are called up here, are great when you want to cut a conductor and not oblonging it when cutting it like a #4 when putting it in the ground position.
Like your channel, when I moved to the us 2006 started to work as helper, after 6 months, tried Green Lee and I knew that Klein will the best investment. Others convinced me to go with commercial electric and harbor freight 😅
That Estwing is a framing hammer, Dustin! That’s why it’s heavier and has a different angle on the claw-it’s for ripping framing nails and breaking steel bands on bundles of lumber. That small claw hammer os a general purpose carpenter’s hammer. I have several hammers but my favorite for carpentry is my titanium Stilleto with a wooden handle. Steel handles are hard on the joints vs. fiber glass and wood. Jason Boland said “Life’s a lot of trade offs in the end.”
If your bending a lot of conduit and not a fan of a wooden rule, the stand out tape measures are great for marking out conduit. Lay the tape next to the conduit pull it back for your deduct and mark away. As a journeyman in NYC I found 16' is plenty long and will swap out with a 30' for layout. Those hybrid Klein pliers are great for everyday use and very lightweight. The 16' tape and hybrid pliers shave a lot of weight from my bag which is important where there can be weeks that im traveling the subways and walking a blocks to the next job.
About the hammer... I agree with you for the most part, but we work in a lot of tight spaces pretty often, and that long handle and straight claw can make it REALLY frustrating when you're trying to pound or pry and you can't get around an angle iron or something. I have two hammers.
I love the Klein lineman’s with the strippers and crimpers. I have a normal pair as well, but being able to use one tool as opposed to three when making up boxes is a GAME CHANGER!
Ok I know this us about tools..I need help plz..plugged in a wall heater...outlet went out...15 amp breaker...no power coming into the outlet..break in line somewhere before the heater outlet..test continuity..struggling finding this .hummm...do you have videos u can recommend..thx so much
I started a college course and got a set of klein pliers including side cutters. They cut through everything like butter but they got stolen. I replaced them with milwaukee’s side cutters cause they were cheaper but now if i cut through anything bigger than # 10 the handles flex and i have to squeeze twice as hard or use a table for extra leverage. Is this a common problem with side cutters or are the milwaukee ones just garbage
You forgot to address the flat vs milled face hammer debate. A smaller diameter handle screwdriver will actually drive a fastener faster than a thick handled one. As for the hybrid pliers, I have 2 pairs of pliers; the normal large journeyman side cutters which I use for rough or dirty work and then I have a pair of hybrid pliers i use for trim work where I'm stripping wires. My only issue with the hybrids is the width of the jaws is always smaller making it a touch more annoying to pretwist wires for wire nuts. Also the extra length of the handle helps with leverage but with the normal side cutters the hinge is also further forward which adds even more leverage for grabbing. With hybrid pliers the knurled part is always further from the hinge because of the strippers.
This is what I love about talking tools because theres so many opinions. I have to disagree about the wood handle hammer. I've had a full shank metal hammer my entire career except for the last 6 months. Here's my reasons why 1) I only need a 16oz wood hammer to do what a 24oz full shank would do. Because the weight is all in the head I can get it moving faster with less energy. 2) it's not glued in, its wedged in, like an axe. And just like an axe if it does eventually break, I can replace the handle without buying a new hammer. 3) if it doesnt feel great in my hand, I can, and have, reshaped the handle to be a custom fit. And most importantly 4) I've given it a nice linseed finish and it will age and change the stain as time goes on, making it more than a tool, and almost an art piece that I just love to pick up and hold.
For linesman/multitool pliers I LOVE the Knipex version. They are so well-designed with such tight tolerances that I can't imagine replacing them with anything else even if they do cost more. The tool is 8.5" long with 4.5" of that being handles. The hardest cut you will make with these is 1/2" cable (including MC cable) and Knipex decided to use bypass shears instead of diagonal cutters, which makes cutting MUCH easier. The only down-side is Knipex does not currently sell them with 1000V insulated handles. The part # for mine is "13 72 8". If you want to save your wallet, Milwaukee has a similar tool for about half the cost but I don't have the part # in front of me.
Tools and Brands I hate: Ryobi. They are classified as a "home gamer" tool but they end up with big displays in home depot that lure people in, especially newbies to the trades. "OH WOW I can get all my power tools here and stuff to care for my lawn and EVERY bit for every fastener EVER!" Just...no. I picked up a 100+ bit kit from Ryobi to do some very light stuff in the office and they were OK, until I had to grab a bit for my impact driver. Guess what, their impact-rated bits were mixed in with non-impact bits in the same kit. I hit a couple of stuck torx fasteners and those bits twisted like taffy. If I needed any more proof that they were crap, I took a closer look at the bits and spotted rust spots on several of them, which is probably why they coat the bits in mineral oil after production.
An entire kitchen remodel was done, mostly quite well, with major revisions requiring an attic beam for support, in order to remove a section of support wall down the hall; hanging cupboards with glass doors accessed from two sides gave light through the cupboard to the old hall area. Light, yet natural wood and splurged granite countertops still feel modern after 15 years, with recessed lighting that easily took modern LEDs when they became decent. Problem? The electricians seemed committed to not leveling even a basic receptacle box, outlet, etc, and used the cheapest grades so plugs never work well. Also, they tapped into old wiring to the bathroom to add an outlet in a cupboard for the microwave, and other dubious shortcuts which now make cleaning up the panel closer to code a real PITA. A different group wired a detached garage, and maybe it was code 20 years ago - but I had to separate the neutral from ground in the subpanel myself when I discovered that issue years later. Other shortcuts that wasted my time, like 14 ga. wire to an outside 15A GFCI receptacle, vs code 20A, still infuriate me. Moral? Get 2-3 references before hiring, and if feasible go and see their work in a real home first. We were letting the contractor use his people, and a lesson is that good carpenters do not guarantee good electricians.
On hammers... my favorite for residential work (nearly useless in commercial) is a 20oz fiberglass hammer that had a thick long grip, a skinnier neck (but still thick as far as necks go), then the head/claw. The face is smooth so it won't dent wires as easily when I miss the staple. I cut off the claw and all but 1" of the grip, then beveled the edges so it would be comfortable. Oh, the weird cramped places I can staple now! I know you can use linemans pliers in much the same way, but this is sometimes better depending on how hard the studs are, plus it can hammer with the normal head or the side or the back where the claw used to be! I love my custom stubby hammer!!! I also have the 19oz (I'd prefer the 21oz, but Platt didn't have it and I needed it that day) Klein electrician's hammer with the long nose. It's a little awkward, but it hits harder than my stubby, and sometimes it's hard to find something else to substitute that long nose. I've never needed something heavier, but I have several options from my automotive days... which is where professionals use ball-peen hammers, btw! metal-working often has more use for a ball than a claw.
I actually like those Klein linesman’s for wiring so I don’t have to switch off between pliers and strippers but I do keep a set of regular Klein linesman’s with the longer handle for general use
Hey Dustin can you please make a video on how a 20 amp receptacle works since there is no neutral and also make a video on how a neutral transformer works. thanks!
On a 20 amp 240 volt receptacle, one side is power and the other is the return, it rotates back and forth with the frequency. They are on opposite poles, L1 and L2. This is rare and the prongs on the receptacle and plug are horizontal instead of vertical. A 20 amp 120 volt receptacle has a neutral, same as the 15 amp receptacle.
Totally agree about nonmagnetic tips. No matter what project you're working on, there is no excuse for a company even to have a nonmagnetic tip in it's standard product line. They should be the exception. I assume there's a reason for nonmagnetic but the product should be clearly marked as such.
Yeah, the only reason I ever use non-magnetic tools is certain small electronics can be sensitive to them, but even that's becoming less and less of a problem. I actually don't remember having anything where that's been a problem since maybe 2003. Even then, when it comes to actual electrical work, I can't think of any reason your tool shouldn't be magnetic.
As a foreman electrician of 20 yrs, the level was the tool that caused the most trouble on the job. If the installation doesn't look right, it's because you trusted your level, rather than measuring off the surrounding structure and aligning to the environment. Trouble bending pipe? Ditch the level and trust your bender markings, protractor, and most of all, your eye.
When I was in residential I had some use for the claw hammer, but mostly used screws with an impact driver. Now that I'm out of that side of work I have almost no use for a claw hammer, but if I need a hammer a ballpeen is the better choice. Other than that I agree with your assesment.
I always invest in a good set of tools. Most of my Klein tools have lasted well over a decade. My Estwing hammer has been with me since I started the trade.
Only thing I disagree with is wood handle hammers. The little 16 oz curve claw one you have is obviously not a good hammer, but a good, wood handle framing hammer like a California framer or a Stiletto with the wood handle are great. Yeah, the handles can break, but that happens seldom and it only takes a few minutes to put a new one in. They’re also much more forgiving on your elbow and shoulders than metal handles. I’ve found this to vary a lot based on geography. I’m from the west coast, and out there most guys have wood handles. When I moved to the Midwest, I found most guys using metal ones.
This, I stored my metal handle and got a wood handled estwing for under $20, best part is everyone thinks it's a bargain bin hammer and won't borrow it!
I have never found a practical use for a curved claw. I bought a Fat max wooden handled 22oz, framer, that had a metal plate at the head to add protection from missing the nail. It was big clunky and just a little too long for overall hammer use. I ended up cutting about two inches off the handle and wrapped it with some Pella style window tape, (didn't have the mylar outer part.) It actually was a pretty good mod. My boss took one look at it and said "boy that hammer is too big for you, you need one like mine!," he had a 16oz Estwing. I knew he was right, but I was too proud at the time to switch so I just kept using the Fatmax. after about a year of I finally gave in and bought my first all metal hammer. Tried several different brands but still not the Estwing. Christmas rolled around and the boss's son bought him a new Estwing, (tradition in their fam was to buy each other a new tool at christmas.) andhe came up and handed me his Estwing. I used the crap out of that Estwing! I'm totally sold on them now. It only took 20 years to finally come around. 15 years on now and I still wonder why I was so boneheaded...
I absolutely love my F-16's. The F-16's are the gray Klein's that he hates. Omg I'll forever own one of those. They are light, they are extremely useful in many different situations. They strip wires very well in my opinion.
My foreman has been in the trade for almost 40 years. She showed me the benefits of using the wooden folding rule for most applications instead of a tape. You can use it to find your measurements for rolling offsets, you can use it as a bevel gauge for finding tricky bend angles, you have an easier time getting measurements on a stick of conduit. It's a game changer.
@@bljdeep She was born that way hoss. Sometimes a woman really is a woman
Agreed
6' folding rule, inside read ... but admittedly, a quality 25' tape is a must too.
Both are needed, they're different tools. The folding rule isn't the right choice in many situations, however there's layout situations that a wood rule is perfect for.
Besides ... it's cool.
About the only retro cool tool a JW uses is the classic folding rule.
Klien makes a fiberglass folding rule that i use all the time. Wooden ones kept breaking on me. Been in 15yrs.
@@miliniun2056
Fiberglass, nice ... I've never used one.
Bought my first 6' wood rule as an apprentice 40yrs ago, spring of '83.
White Lufkin ... at some point I bought the thicker Klein, w/the brass slider extension.
If I had to choose, I like the thinner Lufkin better.
But is it magnetic?
Most of the time I use my linesman pliers to pound staples. The electrician hammer is also what they’re known as and you can shed some weight in your bags.
I used them to hammer everything…🤣 unless I need an actual hammer. Then I probably used my m18 drill like a true professional 🤣
As someone that uses hammers daily, your thoughts on hammers are entertaining. We consider any hammer with a fiberglass handle or steel shank to be cheap and worthless. Give me a hammer with a properly hung and oriented wooden handle any day. At least if I'm gonna be using it for more than a couple hours a day. Maybe for an electrician you can get away with using them, but for a carpenter or blacksmith, you need a wooden handle.
Having been a carpenter for 26 years, I've seen and used a couple of different hammers. The wooden handled hammers are nice because of the impact absorption. But if you miss, the handle takes the brunt of the hit. Estwing steel handles have never broken from any abuse I've given them but have no resilience to absorb shock. Best is fiberglass-handled (resilient) for framing and my favorite 16oz finishing hammer is a Stanley with straight claw (of course) and steel-sheathed wooden handle. BTW, some Stillettos are Titanium not Aluminum handled.
Ya, most electricians don't know what a finish hammer is! I don't see myself ever wanting to use a 28 ounce stiletto on a cabinet or a nice piece of trim.
I became a framer over 40 years ago and a B1 for 30 years. I agree A wooden handle is the only way to go. No framer would use an Estwing because the ringing in your fingers would be unbearable at the end of the day. Stilettos are my favorite because you get the force of a 25oz at half the weight. I have bought a few full-tang Titanium hammers and I still prefer wood handles. I think we are the old guys that were pressured by are you a real carpenter? 1) set the nail 2) slam it home 3) OK one more hit to sink it 4) you suck. If you pound a few hundred nails every day you can feel the difference. P.S. If you remember Hart 25oz framing hammers "your as me".
I use a 16oz straight claw Stanley, I like the length and use it as my measurement for outlet boxes in residential wiring saves time during layout.
Straight claw Stanleys are the shizzle!
Overall good video. I realize the I'm not really the target audience (in residential construction) but I really have to wonder what his mom was like if a ball-peen hammer was in her kitchen drawer! My mom had a claw hammer like the one he suggested. I work in industrial factory settings so my 24oz wood handled ball-peen is my best buddy. I use it every day, and I would laugh right back at anyone who called it a "mom-hammer". Next most used is my 48oz dead-blow which i use all the time for taking motor shafts and couplings apart. I have a claw hammer too, but in my environment it just collects dust in the bottom of my bottom drawer under all the other hammers. Wood handles are definitely better than steel handles for high impact. I'm just curious how people are breaking them so much. Like I say I use my wood-handled ball-peen every single day on heavy machinery (including for its design purpose of shaping metal) and it's 25 years old, never replaced the handle. Handy for reshaping metal junction boxes after the forklifts run into them too.
8:45 It turns more for each time you turn.
Pro tip: There is no change to a screwdriver's handle that exists that makes it turn more per turn. A quarter turn is still a quarter turn. Larger diameter does give you more torque on the screw and better precision.
I saw that, I like the smallest tool that can do the job, Greenlee or Klein, sure but I keep a really small screwdriver in my pouch that can spin a long thread screw much faster
Bigger diameter handle will turn that screw more in a single revolution ,where as the smaller handle may have to be turned half a turn more to spin screw to the same point. Pretty similar to gear ratio. Is it something I'd feel worth arguing about ,absolutely not just seemed you kinda missed what I feel he was referencing. Possibly bigger sprocket on gear or sheave and smaller on axle or tire situation brings it to light. I usually use the screwdriver on my Milwaukee fastback ,I definitely prefer a better 6n1 or 11n1 but I have those craftsman drivers there not junk as others I've had 😮. I don't know as the more revolution of screw with less of handle is a selling point but to some all day handsrewers it may be 😂
It actually exists. It's called Wera Kraftform Turbo. One turn of the handle turns the screw four turns
The other nice thing about magnet tape measures is you can pick up dropped nuts and coupling screws without maneuvering down your ladder or unclipping your harness in a lift... And you can pick up pipe pieces knockouts without bending.
I have used my tape to fish my linesman pliers out of a wall from the attic.
I’m a toolahilic and only the ones I find best stay in my bag. It’s gotten to the point where my boss will tell the new kid “if you want to know what tools to buy look in Sean’s bag” 😂😂
hopefully you only had tools in your bag that day
What IS in your tool bag?
Wait who the fuck, is Sean? 🤔😜
I like having those multi use tools. I think it's nice having to take only a few multiuse tools down in the crawl space instead of trying to drag your whole tool bag or crawling in and out just to do a different task. There's always some random junction box you need to access that sometimes has flathead on one side and drywall screw on the other. 11in1 should be your first purchase as an apprentice
My 1960 era Poepeel Jar Opener, has a screw driver, and is indestructable, ...paint can opener, Nut cracker. I got it for a buck at a garage sale in the 80s. MADE IN USA
My favorite is the klein 7-1 nut driver. I mainly bought it cause it works on my impact.
The klein tools 11 in 1 that says pat pend. Is my favorite multi tool because it has 2 Robinsons bits a t25 2 flat heads 2 Phillips a 1/4 inch socket a 5/16 socket a 3/8 socket and the handle on its own is a half inch socket I can literally carry that and my impact and I have everything I need minus some strippers I fucken love it but I banged on it a couple times and now the rubber handle is coming loose 😅 wish I never banged on it 😢 but it's still amazing
@@AyalaMigueliodude same I banged a ko out using it and my lineman’s and the square bit busted out the back of the handle
Peen hammer is excellent for making gaskets from bulk gasketing material. As an Electrical and Instrumentation technician, I've used a peen far more than I've used a claw. However, your points absolutely stand for construction. Claw angle is frustratingly important. Try pulling a nail in corner against a wall using that aggressive claw angle!
Thanks for the tips concerning tapes, levels, and confirmation about magnetic tips. My company has no idea how much time I've exhausted using bits of electrical tape to hold a screw where I can't use both hands, dropped and had to fetch, or puckered as a fastener inadvertently fell into something potentially hot.
Check out holding screw drivers! I use those routinely, but the flat-blade holding screw drivers can't hold Phillips/ flat combination heads well, at all. (Those are not meant for loosening or tightening; just starting or removing after the screw is loose -- but fantastically helpful!)
I Agreed with most of your opinions. The whole video had me smiling. You know how much electricians love talking about our tools. . . 😅
As an electrician: I used a ball hammer for 30 years, and never had a usage for a claw hammer, but then we did not have wood in the factory ether, just steel. So, nails get replaced with bolts. Hammers are used to hit brass punches so we don't mess up the steel, when needed.
I'd agree as well.
I carried a ball-pein hammer for an entire career.
I believe I went through two, I retired with the second one ... wrapped in thick, protective rubber tape up at the striking end (for those inevitable misses during demo).
I'm a travelling industrial electrician as well and don't have any use for a claw hammer.
Or ful putting a 1/2"/3/4 hole in a block wall ball pins are great. I think this guy is a resy..
Fat tapes and claw hammers are crap in industrial electric. Counter productive. I assume he's talking to residential/commercial installers/repairmen.
My ball-peen is mostly all i use for resi. Light weight cuz you don't need a lot of force to drive staples and easy to get in tight between studs. I's never use those he suggested.. I ain't framing up walls
I work on boats, mobile marine servic: electrical, systems, & propulsion...
Tapes I carry 2 Stanley’s the 16’ and the one in this video. Usually the 16 does it all. I carry 3 ball peens including one that size, and 2 larger ones, I don’t need a claw for anything, but I do have tight spaces and varying levels of tapping punches etc. “don’t hit it with a tiny hammer, you’ll only piss it off”. Cheap screwdrivers rock, maybe not that cheap but I don’t cry when I drop a craftsman into the water from the top of a sailboat mast. Or one gets knocked if the deck into the drink. I do have insulated Kleins as well. But I love a variety of cheap screwdrivers. I’ve got a pair of linesman in each tool bag, they mostly collect dust. I love my small loppers, for doing big battery hookups I do use a ratcheting set. Nothing on a boat is level, get a square and a good eye. Somewhere I do have a solid metal level someplace in the shop. Makita, and magnets are useless if you only work with stainless fasteners. Overall good video, some solid things I agree with!
NOTICE: Dustin is not a tool snob. If you have not been following him for long you will not know that he is not shaming those who may not be able to instantaneously afford good tools. But the fact of the matter is, your tools are your career, and crappy tools can get you hurt. Not to mention, the amount of money you will spend replacing lower tier tools will easily and quickly add up to the value of good tools. Everyone understands that not all have the ability to jump into the trade and have the very best but you should strive to save, work and slowly build up a solid foundation of quality tools as you advance in your career
Also these are not that expensive of tools. The hammer is $40 and the Milwaukee torpedo level is $30ish. Talk to mechanics who have to buy 10s of thousands of dollars on good tools from Matco, snap on, etc, and carry them in a 5k dollar tool chest. And most mechanics are not getting rich. I got that speech from my dad when I was a paramedic about skimping on a stethoscope, the only tool I actually had to buy
my friend was recommended some old "45-year-experienced" "licensed electrician" who is slow, shaky, and has Bauer tools and a brandless LED light. I wonder how someone can work in the most overpaid trade for 45 years and not have good tools at all.
@@mrniusi11 lol "licensed" 😆
@jlewis1091 I started with Klein tools from the Gate personally because I knew that had a good reputation. Got just basics and each week I'd buy a new tool or kit. Now I'm sitting on about $9k of tools after about 5 years in the business. Had to replace only tools I've lost so far. Nothing broke other than my Milwaukee Hammerdrill I dropped from 60' lol
I've had coworkers break two of my Milwaukee hammer drills on one jobsite. It still pisses me off.@@mattdiehl83
I've had the same Estwing hammer for 44 years. I have used it to demolish buildings, built a variety of things, and just beat the heck out of it. Never once had to worry about it breaking.
I actually LOVE that pair of Klein multi-tool pliers that you showed. Yes, you are not gonna be cutting 8awg or larger with it, and you definitely won't be cutting MC with it. But working with 12 or 14awg Romex, I absolutely love that thing. 10awg wire is actually too much for it IMO. They should make a second version, for 10awg and larger wire, and with larger screw cutters on it. That's one thing I don't like about it, is that it can only cut #4 and #6 screws.
Klein makes the same hybrid pliers in a 9” version. The 8” just seems to be more commonly available
Klein Tools Hybrid Pliers with Crimper, Fish Tape Puller and Wire Stripper, Model J2159CRTP*
Agreed dude, Klein Hybrids were my absolute favorite pliers because they're lighter weight than regular linemans but still get the job done on 14-10 awg (10 is a struggle) used them so much I wore them out and had to upgrade to the knipex version for that quality
@@stanrosenblum4669 thanks for the tip. I may snag those 9" up soon.
I have the 9 inch pliers awesome pliers
It's so funny when your helper is first starting out and they have so many Mickey mouse tools
To be fair, your helper who is just starting out, probably isn't cashed up, so they're better off buying 10 different $20 tools, than one $200 tool. Probably for the same reason that the apprentice isn't rolling up to the job in a brand new car/van unlike the journeyman who has earned enough to afford one.
@@davidmurn772 oh absolutely dude. That's why I said it's funny not shameful lol
@@davidmurn772 yeah on top of that, the apprentice also needs to worry about showing up with safety boots and work appropriate clothes.... big expense for someone just starting out.. at least if they show up with some kind of tools, they're eager to work and learn.. it's up to you to show them the difference in garbage tools vs good tools..
Right tool for the right job BUT you have to know (and you will learn over time) what tools to spend money on and what tools NOT too. For example. Linesman, or any pliers, spend the money but bastard or rat tail files, that’s harbor freight for me all the way. Anything that I am going to wear out quickly I will NOT spend money on.
@@PawsumGaming safety boots? I'd laugh if my helper showed up with those. Everyone in my company wears shorts and Nikes lol
Do not underestimate that ball peen hammer, it is not suitable for electricians but it is every automotive enthusiast's best friend.
I keep one with my paintings and drywall materials. Not my everyday. Great for counter sinking protruding sheetrock nails.
Great channel, “Loppers” come in great when roughing in MC/BX jobs. Doing the job for over 30years now, and the extra leverage and ease that they cut the armor make life easier instead of pulling out the rotor split IMHOP
I felt the same way about the hybrid linesman’s at first but they have saved me a few time really helpful for when making up a box. But would be nice have a tad bit more leverage
The Klein hybrid linesmen pliers are great for residential and fire alarm work
Good advice...also...cheap socket sets ...they tend to break easy and round over hardware because they aren't sized correctly.
Great video, brother.
I'm a former framer so I fully understand the right tool for the task.
I don't typically need a torpedo level but I will be keeping the Klein in mind.
Just a small correction....yes framers are prima donnas - Stiletto or Martinez are the best hammers out there. (They are Titanium....not Aluminum)
Framers are drug addicts not primadonas. Sparkies are the primadonas because we are better than the other trades, especially carpenters.
@@alexpopescu7312 learn how to use a broom and we'll talk
@@jacobrutherford2407 ok tweaker
Not a prima donna, and pretty much nobody needs a $250 hammer. Save the Titanium for the hip you might need after hauling lumber around for decades... ;)
Shortly after I started in this trade my brother gave me one of those automatic wire strippers (fairly expensive Snap-On one), I literally used it for about 15 seconds before I said nope and returned to the normal manual wire strippers.
Those automatic wire strippers are great if you’re building a PLC cabinet and need to terminate 1,000 small wires.
This carpenter apprentice brought a beat-up, old Mom's hammer his first day on the job and was ridiculed mercilessly. Before he left at the end of the day, the journeyman told him, "Don't ever show up with that hammer again." So the following day, he came to work with a brand-new Mom's hammer.
🤦🏼♂️
Carpentry has a broad spectrum from framing to setting trim. You don't really what you signed up for till you've been with that crew for a little while.
First job was a deck so I bought a 24oz ax handle,but 90% work we do is finish work, so I eventually downsized to 19oz fiberglass Vaughan.
Best part of the Estwing is that thin shaft. Perfect to wedge nail up boxes in narrow spaces.
You can stick a flat pry on the nail then hit the pry bar for tight spaces.
Been an electrician since 2004... involuntary nodding the WHOLE video, great stuff and experienced thoughts!
ELECTRICIANS:
Been an electrician for 21 years and an electrical contractor for 12.
ANY OTHER TRADES:
I paused the video at the beginning to guess what Dustin would explain about why he wouldn't use each one and what he would use instead.
AS AN ELECRICAL CONTRACTOR:
I own or have owned every tool he recommended.
If you're gonna get that Klein level, then get the one that lights up. Makes leveling stuff in darker areas easier.
The lighted Klein level is nice, but it doesn’t have a 30° level on it, which is not ideal for conduit bending. I carry the 4 level torpedo (small one with a built in no dog) in my tool pouch and the big three level lighted one in my packout hand tote- it’s nice for bending 90s and checking kicks, etc..
@Penguin545 I get what you mean but we don't bend much pipe in my company. We do residential custom homes. The light up one works perfect for my general construction needs.
@@shponjoel absolutely if you’re not bending conduit, then I totally agree, you won’t have much use for a 30° angle if you’re just checking for level and plumb most of the time.
the Knipex muti pliers are great, the strippers are awesome and the rounded cutting teeth work perfect for BX or single conductor. can easily splice #14 or #12 awg. only wish the jaws were a little wider to splice #10 but its my favorite tool in the bag.
The best.
I'm somewhat surprised you didn't mention Klein tape measure. After years of trying Craftsman, Stanley, DeWalt, Milwaukee (and even Kobalt...) I found the Klein. Has all the best features I like, including the magnetic rip, and there really isn't anything I don't like. If I *had* to pick something I don't like, the markings are a bit thick, so if you need super precise, you can't. You can, but you have to consistently mark the left or right edge of the markings or pay close attention. But if my biggest complaint is that I'm going to be 1/64" off and that's not precise enough, I probably need to be using a precise rule instead.
Agree and if u forget the measurements for bends on conduit it's on the tape measure
Honestly the best tape measure that I've ever bought was 8 dollars.
Better than all those brands, except I haven't tried the klein one. But spec ops on amazon has a great tape measure. Thicker blade than any of the brands mentioned, compact, durable, double sided. Just flawless.
Personally I really like the klein multi plier... don't need to switch between a pair of linesman and strippers stream lining most tasks. Never had issue cutting #6 but cutting armored cable thats where a quick swap to your side cutters is easy. The less you have to juggle through tools the better. Only thing missing was a solid fishtape puller but I changed that with a Dremel. Been using them everyday since 2017 and recommend when the opportunity knocks 👌
I have Milwaukee and Dewalt drills, both are 2 speed. I like the DeWalt much better, Milwaukee is sooooo much slower.
They both have similar torque.
I first had the Milwaukee for years and thought it was awesome until I bought a Dewalt.
1/0 cutters are not a stupid tool, cut luminaire cable all day w ure linesman’s and ure hands will be ready to fall off, not carrying ratchet cutters around to cut 12/2 mc w 0-10 wire inside of cable while I wire across a building
I agree with some of your tool stuff, but I love my multi pliers. I use the knipex 13 72 8 as my strippers, then have a dedicated pair of Klein ironworkers style spring linemans.
@15:06 😆 you sound really upset not being able to drop stuff. Love it.
From personal experience I prefer both the Milwaukee and Klein tapes (I hate how small FatMax feels in the hand). I've warranties both brands twice within the last year of work, with one Milwaukee being my fault for letting it melt next to a space heater. I prefer the Klein for feel, but both are great as long as you stick with the Milwaukee Stud imo. Maybe I don't treat my tapes right, but no brand seems to stand up to much use before being warrantied in my experitence.
My favorite rule is a folding carpenters stick rule. My favorite tape is an old Stanley 12 foot slide lock tape. I love it because the case is exactly two inches. Makes inside measurements with minimal brain strain.
You shouldn't strike a hardened tool with a hardened hammer. Shrapnel may happen. You should have a hammer available made for striking chisels and punches.
There is a lot of handled junk on the market masquerading as hammers. I think you have never used a good quality wood handled carpenters hammer. A good one is easy on your arm. If you have to overdrive a hammer, you are using too light a hammer for the job.
Agreed ... 6' (inside read) folding rule. There's scenarios whereby the folding rule is perfect.
I think you need both really, tape and a rule.
Wood claw hammers; forty years ago as an apprentice, it was recommended to get this Vaughan, oak handled.
It was sweet.
As it turned out I rarely used it. Actually a large ball pein hammer was clearly more aligned with what I needed in most cases.
So who makes a >good< set of magnetic drill driver tips? I've had several that are too shallow or the magnets are too weak. Also, it's nice to have a mediocre set of tips you don't mind destroying if you're trying to remove rusted or seized screws. No point in destroying the gooder, more expensive set.
The ball piece works great for knocking out knock outs, I keep a little one on my tool bag very useful.
If you want a whole new level of Dustin being super excited and engaging, watch these videos at 1.5. Hilarity ensues.
0.5 is way more hilarious, he sounds like most of us do at night after a long hard work day: sloppy drunk talking tools to our only friends who are mainly other electricians.
I still have my 1970s Klein (steel) 20 oz straight claw hammer. My favorite. I use it all the time.
I made the foolish mistake of pounding on one of my Klein multi bit screwdrivers and now it’s almost impossible to change bits. 🥴
The simple 9” Klein lineman’s pliers which I used in my lineman days is still my favorite. No other has proven any better for me. Guess I’m set in my ways after all these years.
Excellent video! Keep them coming!
With all due respect.
Your forgetting where you came from!
TODAY, you have success, in your career, and this channel.
When you first start out and AS YOU GROW, you buy the tools that:
A. I can afford
B. Will give me the most versatility to complete the work I do everyday.
I have seen all of the tools you love & hate, I purchased WHAT I COULD AFFORD and keep food on the table for my family and get me to the next step in my career.
Just saying🤗
I agree. Struggling at first without all the accoutrement makes you a stronger worker snd human being. When you get accomplished you can afford better stuff
Agreed. A motivated person can do a lot with a little. It's all so nice to have the right tools. I'm using better tools now because I've struggled thru the broke years. Kudos
Klein makes a double-sided tape with the offset measurement for 1/2 EMT bending it is pretty neat
As an apprentice sparky I was always told to use a wooden or fiberglass hammer presumably because it doesn't conduct the juice.
Not being an electrician that would have been my guess. A heavy conductive metal hammer, I would have to have been the last choice for an electrician. 💁🏼♂️
I’ve found I like those cheap molded plastic levels for finish work better. In my experience even just the aluminum edge on plastic levels can scratch or leave marks so I just hand out the less than $3 ones to the new kids. Not like you need a magnet on plastic plates anyway and I can typically get 6 or 7 months out of it so price doesn’t concern me.
thats a fair point, but those plastic levels tend to warp real quick. One dude at a previous jobsite had one of those plastic levels and ended up having to go back and fixing hundreds of faceplates cause his tool wasn't accurate
This video is absolutely top notch. This has to be one of the best advise for an electrician. After a year, I’ve literally changed all my tools to the exact tools your showing is the best, and they really are!!!
I love Klein Tools, but I hope you have a shop with reliable warranty turn in. I've warrantied 2 tapes, a level, screwdriver, and jab-saw within this year. It's great when it works, but some of their stuff seems to break too fast in commercial construction.
@@isaiahserrano6116 really? May have just been bad luck. I’ve never ever had to warranty anything.
Great video! I am in almost complete agreement. (especially on the tame measurers) I have to disagree about the wooden hammer though. Well, not entirely. Wooden hammers are better for shock absorption. The reason metal handled hammers advertise special shot absorption features is because they have to because metal handles are notoriously bad on the joints. When I started in construction I bought an estwing but after driving that all day every day I quickly switched to a wooden hammer like the Journeymen around me. Plus, with metal hammers, much of the weight of the hammer is in the handle. So a 16oz metal hammer will have a lighter head than a 16 oz wooden hammer, because in a wooden hammer most of that 16oz is the actual head and not the handle. With a striking instrument you want the weight in the head so gravity can help you do the work. This saves the number of necessary blows and in doing so saves your joints. So if you are driving a lot with your hammer, its a long handle wood hammer all day. I only grab my estwing when I am going to be doing a lot of demolition or something. That said, I can see why a different hammer might fit the work of an electrician differently than a framer. It's interesting to hear how and electrician feels about this!
The first hammer I ever bought for myself, when I was 15 ( 1970 ), was one of those 16 oz. wooden handle claw hammers. I kept it for more than 30 years as a commercial carpenter, before we had air powered tools. I could drive a 10 d with two strokes and 16 d with 3 strokes. I did move up to an Estwing 22 oz. when someone stole my original.
A lot of hate in this man
I love my 6' rule. You can match bends when needed.
The ball hammer we use it everyday on my job sight - it’s good to break races on out shaft
For us electricians that do more than residential work, a ball peen hammer is very useful in the rebuild of motors for example amongst other tasks you wouldn't know about nailing plastic boxes, more of a carpenter's job than a real electrician😁
Also great for getting the cabinet some donkey ran a forklift into straightened, alongside a crescent wrench for straightening flanges.
@@Nidkidful yeah, see you know what I'm talking about, most these house ropers never even used a megger
One thing I have learned is do not use magnetic tips with an impact driver. The impact function gets rid of any magnetism in the bits.
How do you know that?
Only if you’re using cheap junk, I have magnetic apexes that have gone thru many tens of thousands of impacts and are still magnetic.
Wrong. Just wrong.
@@adamsonntag5755 guess you never used an impact with magnetic bits 🥱my fifteen years tells me diff homie.
@@Drewchark bc I use them constantly -
Tried a bunch of those tools. Komelon makes fine tapes, I just switched to Fatmax which are reliable. The more features Komelon pushes out every year, the more likely SBD/Fatmax is pushed to innovate with their Irwin line (now they have double sided tape).
Agreed on the linesman. Keep it 9 inches or longer, the rivet close to the cutting edge, and leave it at that. Allow the tool to do the job. Tried shorter handles, tried different multi tools, linesman. They're used to cut items which we can't cut with other items. Klein is hard to beat.
I'm one of the few people to regularly use those cheap plastic levels. They're affordable, disposable, and I can drop at a height without worry. The weak magnets are to prevent it from picking up metal shavings (so I don't have to blue tape), and I'll never forget leaving it on conduit. Everyone has the same orange 6.25 inch klein torpedo level, I have the longer 8 one, and one of the lightweight plastic ones.
All my bit extensions are bit locking. Costs a bit more, but I love how well it holds.
Lol, Mom's hammer for me was a 20oz Estwing. For the Klein multi pliers, I know you don't like them, but for someone like me that doesn't need the high leverage in my normal work it ends up being perfect. I do keep some real linesman's in my bag on the rare times I actually need a hammer or to cut something big.
I have to say I love my wire loppers. They are a staple of my tool belt. But, not for wire. I run MC everywhere. They are great for cutting the cable to length. I cut 12/2 all the way up to 10/3 like butter. I like it so I can save the cutting edge on my linemens. This is a great example of using a tool for what it can do and not for what it is designed for.
I use a ball hammer for KO boxes, it's perfect for 3/4" KOs and I don't need to use my Kleins as a hammer. I work commercial, so sometimes when I was in prefab I'd have 500 or more 4x KO boxes; my cheap Harbor Freight ball hammer made it a little easier.
Last thoughts...Milwaukees insulated screwdrivers are solid stuff, but didn't wow me enough to switch from Klein...last couple years there's a buzz that Klein's tips (especially the Philips) are soft and break down faster...strangely enough I actually HAVE noticed this a little, might be some truth to it, then again I'm hard on hand tools...
Also if you guys ever get the chance take Channellock dikes and linesmans for a spin...cut through stuff like a knife through butter, durable as hell, great balance...
Rounded my brand new Klein 1000v Robinson first time I gutted a panel, went straight back to the old ass 20 year old one my journeyman gave me and haven’t even considered a new one since. Things just ain’t made like they used to be
Like many people I feel like I got into the trades with cheap tools and by way of being taught and using other peoples tools I found out why it's important to get nice stuff.
For every situation where a metal handle would be better than wooden, I’ve found I’m either bending the handle or breaking what I’m working on.
20 year electrician here. I have carried a ball peen and an auto body dolly since around year 5. Old foreman showed me how to tap out dings on deleted load center covers. Comes in handy at least once or twice a year.
Heat the paint and metal with your propane torch or gun, and tap out the dings. 3-4 hours beats a 6 week lead time every time.
That cut to Dustin's awkward straight face laugh had me spit my drink out all over my monitor.....twice. Well played.
Yes I would not use a ball pean hammer in you trade, but to answer your question, moms hammer are used in the automotive trade. Next time you are getting your truck serviced ask to take a look at the tradesman tool box that keeps your truck on the road. Great content, keep it.
Great stuff as always...I've rolled with Klein for 25 years, tried a bunch of others but nothing feels like a Klein grip...actually got a set of DeWalt's tough series (S2 shafts) and they're actually pretty sweet, nice grips, tips rock solid, engage screws flawlessly plus magnetic...always used Estwing hammers but some of DeWalt's hammers have made there way onto my truck now too...
Wera makes much better screwdrivers
Hammers with wooden handles may not be the best choice for an electrician, but experienced carpenters who swing them all day understand that the wood absorbs vibrations and reduces fatigue. A good hickory handle can take some abuse and is easily replaceable. The steel Estwing hammers are legendary, but I think if you're breaking wooden hammer handles, you're using it wrong.
Oh WOW 😳😱
For a minute there, I thought you are Kevin in the USCCA channel....👍😂
I agree with pretty all of your recommendations. Buy a Stanley FatMax, Milwaukee Wide Blade or even a Stanley PowerLock tape measure. Estwing makes the best hammers for the money. Only a few bucks more for an Estwing. Shame on Home Depot for not carrying these anymore. I pretty much only buy Klein pliers. But, like you, the multi-pliers aggravate me and never work as good as the OG single function stuff. American made Klein screwdrivers are amazing, but I have had the grips come loose on some of their multi-screwdrivers,. I wish Klein would make a basic 6-In-1. I have been wanting to buy the Klein level. My only gripe is that it's not made in America. Not a big fan of Milwaukee hand tools with the exception of their utility knives, which are the best in the game. A video on crap meters would be good for a lot of people. I would say never buy a meter that costs less than a hundred bucks. Most likely, it will be junk if you do. Long time viewer, great content, as usual.
And I will add, I had a boss chew me out for bringing a set of non magnetic chucks on a job early on. He told to throw those damn things in the garbage. He was right. Malco makes the best chucks.
I absolutely love that pliers, the best multi purpose pliers. I use wire cutter for bigger cables.
Your hating on Kobalt is uncalled for, they actually make some decent stuff.
Womp womp, Decent isn’t enough bud
@@lastking2925 Kobalt started out as a rebrand of Williams, and after a few years contracted out to Danaher. If you can afford Knipex, go for it (I can and do.) The Klein fanboys can STFU. ;^)
@@lastking2925 wow, can the content creator delete replies? If so, he himself needs to be deleted. What say you, professor of e u?
@@declanfarber go cry about it while hugging your Cheaply made kobalt toys 🤣
You don’t need a tape measure any longer than a stick of conduit. I always carry a Stanley 8-ft, 1/4-inch wide tape, in my watch pocket. It is very handy when working in cabinets and boxes.
RE, the ball peen hammer, it is very handy for making custom gaskets. You lay gasket paper on one of your parts and then take the ball end and peen the location of a fastener, it will then tear out where the fastner goes. Insert the fastener, and do the next fastener, and install it. After you do all the fasteners and have them in place to hold the paper in place start on the cutouts.
RE the “linesman” pliers you don’t like. They are great for building panels. No they are not worth their weight if your just pulling wire, they aren’t very good.
Ratcheting cutters: I was repairing lightning protection systems on some lookouts, and the conductors are a woven 64strand single ought. The only thing which cuts the stuff is the ratcheting cutters. And, they won’t if they are the least bit dull.
Klein has actually made a larger version (9”)of those multi use linemans pliers. I think the ones in the video are 8”.
Playschool Tools 🤣 That reminded me of the first time I went to work with a bunch of old guys at a shop where we build scenography for theater and I brought a really cheap tape measure and one of the guys said, "Hey man don't use that Mickey Mouse tape measure around here please, use mine instead." Well that followed me for a couple of years, "Hey Carlos did you bring your Mickey Mouse set today?"
The Komelon self locking 25' tapes are actually great, and reliable, its just 'getting use to' them, as its the opposite of manual lock, and I own enough tools for 6 guys. Unless I'm doing a stud building, I leave my Estwing hammers in the truck and use my great $4 Harbor freight hammer. I can leave the cheap hammer on the cart overnight, I wear a small clip on bag with about 10 tools max, I put the level and sliplock in my back pocket and roll a cart along with the rest, as the best tools are the smallest that do the job. Ive been in the trades and construction for 45 years, 20 as an electrician.
Klein never really disappoints they have good warranties even though I've never taken advantage of that , blue handle Klein's lineman can't go wrong
The last tool you pulled up, the 1/0's, which is what they are called up here, are great when you want to cut a conductor and not oblonging it when cutting it like a #4 when putting it in the ground position.
Can’t stand using my linmans for anything over #8. 1/0’s are super convenient in a panel. Cut like butter.
Like your channel, when I moved to the us 2006 started to work as helper, after 6 months, tried Green Lee and I knew that Klein will the best investment. Others convinced me to go with commercial electric and harbor freight 😅
ideal screwdrivers are pretty nice. my kleins have loose rubber handles like you mentioned.
That Estwing is a framing hammer, Dustin! That’s why it’s heavier and has a different angle on the claw-it’s for ripping framing nails and breaking steel bands on bundles of lumber. That small claw hammer os a general purpose carpenter’s hammer. I have several hammers but my favorite for carpentry is my titanium Stilleto with a wooden handle. Steel handles are hard on the joints vs. fiber glass and wood. Jason Boland said “Life’s a lot of trade offs in the end.”
If your bending a lot of conduit and not a fan of a wooden rule, the stand out tape measures are great for marking out conduit. Lay the tape next to the conduit pull it back for your deduct and mark away. As a journeyman in NYC I found 16' is plenty long and will swap out with a 30' for layout. Those hybrid Klein pliers are great for everyday use and very lightweight. The 16' tape and hybrid pliers shave a lot of weight from my bag which is important where there can be weeks that im traveling the subways and walking a blocks to the next job.
I carry a 16’ tape and find it long enough for about 99.9% of everything I ever need to measure.
Ive been using my granddathers wooden hammer for 5 years now and it's seen decades of use, still going strong, never feel any pain hitting staples
About the hammer... I agree with you for the most part, but we work in a lot of tight spaces pretty often, and that long handle and straight claw can make it REALLY frustrating when you're trying to pound or pry and you can't get around an angle iron or something. I have two hammers.
I love the Klein lineman’s with the strippers and crimpers. I have a normal pair as well, but being able to use one tool as opposed to three when making up boxes is a GAME CHANGER!
Love to see you cut some 12/6 with lineman. Those clippers are great for bigger sized mc
Ok
I know this us about tools..I need help plz..plugged in a wall heater...outlet went out...15 amp breaker...no power coming into the outlet..break in line somewhere before the heater outlet..test continuity..struggling finding this
.hummm...do you have videos u can recommend..thx so much
No videos?
I started a college course and got a set of klein pliers including side cutters. They cut through everything like butter but they got stolen. I replaced them with milwaukee’s side cutters cause they were cheaper but now if i cut through anything bigger than # 10 the handles flex and i have to squeeze twice as hard or use a table for extra leverage. Is this a common problem with side cutters or are the milwaukee ones just garbage
Q1
You forgot to address the flat vs milled face hammer debate. A smaller diameter handle screwdriver will actually drive a fastener faster than a thick handled one. As for the hybrid pliers, I have 2 pairs of pliers; the normal large journeyman side cutters which I use for rough or dirty work and then I have a pair of hybrid pliers i use for trim work where I'm stripping wires. My only issue with the hybrids is the width of the jaws is always smaller making it a touch more annoying to pretwist wires for wire nuts. Also the extra length of the handle helps with leverage but with the normal side cutters the hinge is also further forward which adds even more leverage for grabbing. With hybrid pliers the knurled part is always further from the hinge because of the strippers.
This is what I love about talking tools because theres so many opinions. I have to disagree about the wood handle hammer. I've had a full shank metal hammer my entire career except for the last 6 months. Here's my reasons why 1) I only need a 16oz wood hammer to do what a 24oz full shank would do. Because the weight is all in the head I can get it moving faster with less energy. 2) it's not glued in, its wedged in, like an axe. And just like an axe if it does eventually break, I can replace the handle without buying a new hammer. 3) if it doesnt feel great in my hand, I can, and have, reshaped the handle to be a custom fit. And most importantly 4) I've given it a nice linseed finish and it will age and change the stain as time goes on, making it more than a tool, and almost an art piece that I just love to pick up and hold.
What are some materials/material brands you don’t like working with? Personally, remodel fan bar boxes, especially the one from Lowe’s.
For linesman/multitool pliers I LOVE the Knipex version. They are so well-designed with such tight tolerances that I can't imagine replacing them with anything else even if they do cost more. The tool is 8.5" long with 4.5" of that being handles. The hardest cut you will make with these is 1/2" cable (including MC cable) and Knipex decided to use bypass shears instead of diagonal cutters, which makes cutting MUCH easier. The only down-side is Knipex does not currently sell them with 1000V insulated handles. The part # for mine is "13 72 8".
If you want to save your wallet, Milwaukee has a similar tool for about half the cost but I don't have the part # in front of me.
Tools and Brands I hate: Ryobi. They are classified as a "home gamer" tool but they end up with big displays in home depot that lure people in, especially newbies to the trades. "OH WOW I can get all my power tools here and stuff to care for my lawn and EVERY bit for every fastener EVER!" Just...no. I picked up a 100+ bit kit from Ryobi to do some very light stuff in the office and they were OK, until I had to grab a bit for my impact driver. Guess what, their impact-rated bits were mixed in with non-impact bits in the same kit. I hit a couple of stuck torx fasteners and those bits twisted like taffy. If I needed any more proof that they were crap, I took a closer look at the bits and spotted rust spots on several of them, which is probably why they coat the bits in mineral oil after production.
An entire kitchen remodel was done, mostly quite well, with major revisions requiring an attic beam for support, in order to remove a section of support wall down the hall; hanging cupboards with glass doors accessed from two sides gave light through the cupboard to the old hall area. Light, yet natural wood and splurged granite countertops still feel modern after 15 years, with recessed lighting that easily took modern LEDs when they became decent. Problem? The electricians seemed committed to not leveling even a basic receptacle box, outlet, etc, and used the cheapest grades so plugs never work well. Also, they tapped into old wiring to the bathroom to add an outlet in a cupboard for the microwave, and other dubious shortcuts which now make cleaning up the panel closer to code a real PITA.
A different group wired a detached garage, and maybe it was code 20 years ago - but I had to separate the neutral from ground in the subpanel myself when I discovered that issue years later. Other shortcuts that wasted my time, like 14 ga. wire to an outside 15A GFCI receptacle, vs code 20A, still infuriate me.
Moral? Get 2-3 references before hiring, and if feasible go and see their work in a real home first. We were letting the contractor use his people, and a lesson is that good carpenters do not guarantee good electricians.
On hammers... my favorite for residential work (nearly useless in commercial) is a 20oz fiberglass hammer that had a thick long grip, a skinnier neck (but still thick as far as necks go), then the head/claw. The face is smooth so it won't dent wires as easily when I miss the staple. I cut off the claw and all but 1" of the grip, then beveled the edges so it would be comfortable. Oh, the weird cramped places I can staple now! I know you can use linemans pliers in much the same way, but this is sometimes better depending on how hard the studs are, plus it can hammer with the normal head or the side or the back where the claw used to be! I love my custom stubby hammer!!! I also have the 19oz (I'd prefer the 21oz, but Platt didn't have it and I needed it that day) Klein electrician's hammer with the long nose. It's a little awkward, but it hits harder than my stubby, and sometimes it's hard to find something else to substitute that long nose. I've never needed something heavier, but I have several options from my automotive days... which is where professionals use ball-peen hammers, btw! metal-working often has more use for a ball than a claw.
I actually like those Klein linesman’s for wiring so I don’t have to switch off between pliers and strippers but I do keep a set of regular Klein linesman’s with the longer handle for general use
Hey Dustin can you please make a video on how a 20 amp receptacle works since there is no neutral and also make a video on how a neutral transformer works. thanks!
On a 20 amp 240 volt receptacle, one side is power and the other is the return, it rotates back and forth with the frequency. They are on opposite poles, L1 and L2. This is rare and the prongs on the receptacle and plug are horizontal instead of vertical. A 20 amp 120 volt receptacle has a neutral, same as the 15 amp receptacle.
Totally agree about nonmagnetic tips. No matter what project you're working on, there is no excuse for a company even to have a nonmagnetic tip in it's standard product line. They should be the exception.
I assume there's a reason for nonmagnetic but the product should be clearly marked as such.
Yeah, the only reason I ever use non-magnetic tools is certain small electronics can be sensitive to them, but even that's becoming less and less of a problem. I actually don't remember having anything where that's been a problem since maybe 2003. Even then, when it comes to actual electrical work, I can't think of any reason your tool shouldn't be magnetic.
As a foreman electrician of 20 yrs, the level was the tool that caused the most trouble on the job. If the installation doesn't look right, it's because you trusted your level, rather than measuring off the surrounding structure and aligning to the environment. Trouble bending pipe? Ditch the level and trust your bender markings, protractor, and most of all, your eye.
*cough*laser*cough*
When I was in residential I had some use for the claw hammer, but mostly used screws with an impact driver. Now that I'm out of that side of work I have almost no use for a claw hammer, but if I need a hammer a ballpeen is the better choice. Other than that I agree with your assesment.
I always invest in a good set of tools. Most of my Klein tools have lasted well over a decade. My Estwing hammer has been with me since I started the trade.
Only thing I disagree with is wood handle hammers. The little 16 oz curve claw one you have is obviously not a good hammer, but a good, wood handle framing hammer like a California framer or a Stiletto with the wood handle are great. Yeah, the handles can break, but that happens seldom and it only takes a few minutes to put a new one in. They’re also much more forgiving on your elbow and shoulders than metal handles. I’ve found this to vary a lot based on geography. I’m from the west coast, and out there most guys have wood handles. When I moved to the Midwest, I found most guys using metal ones.
This, I stored my metal handle and got a wood handled estwing for under $20, best part is everyone thinks it's a bargain bin hammer and won't borrow it!
I love the Klein multi tool pliers. I use it exclusively when I device out, do low voltage etc.
I have never found a practical use for a curved claw. I bought a Fat max wooden handled 22oz, framer, that had a metal plate at the head to add protection from missing the nail. It was big clunky and just a little too long for overall hammer use. I ended up cutting about two inches off the handle and wrapped it with some Pella style window tape, (didn't have the mylar outer part.) It actually was a pretty good mod. My boss took one look at it and said "boy that hammer is too big for you, you need one like mine!," he had a 16oz Estwing. I knew he was right, but I was too proud at the time to switch so I just kept using the Fatmax. after about a year of I finally gave in and bought my first all metal hammer. Tried several different brands but still not the Estwing.
Christmas rolled around and the boss's son bought him a new Estwing, (tradition in their fam was to buy each other a new tool at christmas.) andhe came up and handed me his Estwing. I used the crap out of that Estwing! I'm totally sold on them now. It only took 20 years to finally come around. 15 years on now and I still wonder why I was so boneheaded...
I absolutely love my F-16's. The F-16's are the gray Klein's that he hates. Omg I'll forever own one of those. They are light, they are extremely useful in many different situations. They strip wires very well in my opinion.
Great video. The stilleto hammer is titanium, not aluminum. Expensive, but a great hammer.